Mitzy Wall

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ACCESS

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File:Mitzy walls-ogmore.jpg

Mitzy Walls

The cliff now turns through a right angle and provides better rock and routes. At the left side of this section is a set of huge overhangs split by two vertical breaks. Storms have virtually destroyed The Hunchback, E1 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=73257) and The Bills, The Bills. Some roofs have been lost and a few grades are now speculative.

The Routes

1. The Bills, The Bills - E3,6b
   
   
2. Mitzy - 15m E5,6b
   Start beneath an obvious split in the roof to the right of the overhangs. This has lost yet more of its roof in recent storms, so the grade is highly speculative. Climb to the roof and struggle over it to a second roof. Abseil. 15m
   
   To the right is a deep depression starting from a small, flat platform. On its right side is an obvious arete. It is possible to traverse right along a large ledge to descend from these routes. A preplaced abseil rope would be the thinking man’s option.
   
   
3. Night Games E3,5c
   Start from the platform and climb an undercut wall to gain a thin crack in the wall left of the arete. Climb this to a belay ledge. Abseil. 21m
   
   
4. To Mitzy a Pup - E3,6a *
   This takes the arete. Climb the wall to a ledge, step left and climb the arete to its top (Hex 10 belay). Traverse right or abseil. 30m.
   
   
5. The Pod - VS,4b *
   Climb the obvious pod-shaped chimney until a traverse right leads to the arete. Belay on the right. 27m.
   
   
6. Two Peas - E1 5a
   Gain the arete by a rightward hand traverse and finish direct. 25m.
   
   
7. Philosan - VS,4b
   Climb a crack, swing right to the arete and continue to a fault, which is followed to ledges. Move right to descend. 21m.
   
   
8. Fly Power - VS,4b
   t just left of Duff. Climb a leftward-leaning crack to a ledge. Continue to another leftward-leaning crack, then the belay. Traverse right to descend. 21m.
   
   
9. Duff - S,4a
   Start 3m left of the right edge of the next wall. Climb the wall via a crack to a ledge. Continue rightwards to a ledge and traverse right to descend. 21m.
   
   

First Ascents

1. P. Littlejohn, C.Brooks 1984
2. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 28.10.1978
3. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.07.1985
4. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1979
5. J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 00.00.1977
6. R.Thomas, S.Coles 00.05.1994
7. C.Horsfield, J.Harwood 23.03.1977
8. J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 23.03.1977
9. J.Harwood 20.07.1977