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Michaelston-le-pit
Bolting Policy
Climbing not permitted
Preamble
A brand new sports climbing development located in woodland near Dinas Powys, only 15 mins drive from Cardiff.
The Quarry faces east and dries quickly
Access
Update 04/02/11 - Just heard from Elfyn (BMC) that this site is owned by the woodland trust and climbing is not permitted for conservation reasons. Please avoid climbing here unless the situation changes.
The quarry lies near Michaelston-le-pit near Dinas Powys. From Pen-y-Turnpike Road, which runs between Leckwith and Dinas Powys there is a turning sign posted for Michaelston-le-pit. Drive through the village and follow the road, past a layby, until another layby is encountered next to a bridge which crosses a stream below some ponds. Cross the bridge and follow the track through some fields and past two gates into the woodland. Soon after the woodland is entered one passes a bench on the right and behind this a high cliff face can be seen.
About 10m past the bench a small path enters the woods and steeply scrambles to the base of the cliff, currently through some dense vegetation although this should improve with traffic.
Descent
Access to and from the top of the quarry is difficult and all routes have lower-offs
The Routes
- The Great Bungle Breeding Experiment - Fr. 5
A very pleasant route up the left of the face. Still a little dusty but with plenty of jugs. - Papa Lazarou - Fr. 5+
Start in the corner then progress upwards to the left of the corner. - Depleted Geranium - Fr. 6b
Start in the corner and use the staple to the right of the corner. Continue rightwards through powerful moves to surmount undercut rock. Continue up to second crux near top and lower-off bolts. - The Furious Bi-Curious - Closed Project
The leaning wall right of Depleted Geranium will yield a powerful route.
