Llwynypia

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South East Wales Sandstone Contents

GR 993938

PREAMBLE

A reasonably good crag in a nice setting. The main section of the quarry is on the far side of the obvious pool, but there are some buttresses and a small section about 100m left of the entrance to the complex. The right-hand end has a lot of potential for new routes including what looks like a couple of old aid routes (no details). Some 25 routes are alluded to in the 1973 SWMC guide, but details seem to have been lost, they were mostly severe or below, rambling and are now mostly overgrown.

The crag is undergoing a face lift at present so please be patient and avoid stealing projects or in situ cleaning ropes and carabiners. Routes will be reported on the Wiki as they are cleaned/regeared/climbed on a daily basis so please keep in touch to avoid problems.

ACCESS

Llwynapia2.jpg

Go past Tonypandy via the A41199(gained from the LLantrisant junction on the M4). Pass Asda to a steep right hand bend (traffic lights), with the prominent new Magistrates Court on the left. Turn left in front of the court and park on the road (or the train station/Asda carpark to avoid upsetting residents). Go into the woods on the right via a gate and follow the obvious track up the hill for about 300m to enter the quarry. If on foot, the railway station is right next to the court building.

THE ROUTES

Left Hand Section

Left-Hand Section
Llwynypia - Left Hand Section

Located about 100m left of the path leading to the quarry entrance.

  1. Led Astray - Fr. 6c
    At the far end of the left section are two buttresses forming a right-angled bay. This is the central face of the left-hand buttress. 9m

  2. Ylide - E1,5c
    The arete to the right of Led Astray climbed on the left side throughout. 9m.

  3. Nowhere Man - HVS,5b
    The same arete climbed on the right side. 8m.

  4. All In The Best Possible Taste- Fr. 5
    The chimney.started by jambing and bridging then being selective with the blocks higher up. 8m.

  5. Perverted By Language - E4,6c Fr. 7b
    The right-hand buttress leans slightly. At its left end is a faint groove. Climb this past a BR and PR.... 9m.

  6. Siberian Mushroom Santa - Fr. 7a+ *
    Short wall a few metres R. 3BR.

  7. Cupid Stunts - Fr. 5+
    The arete taken on it's left starting up the thin crack.

  8. Another Nick Unnamed - Fr. 3
    The jolly slab starting just R of the L arete.

    On the next buttress R are 3 good routes....

  9. Master Baker Of Gingerbread Love Dolls - Fr. 6a+*
    Short pockety wall.

  10. Senile SlapperFr 6c
    The centre of the wall starting as for previous. 8m.

  11. Kenny Bollocks And His Jizzmen - Fr. 6b+*
    Arete,tricky moves at top.

    Moving R again into the trees is a low wall with cracks and roofs.....

  12. Punk On Ronny - Fr. 6a
    1m L of the fence. 5m.

  13. Nick's New Route - VS 4b
    The flaky crack by the fence. 5m.

  14. Nasty Little Squirter - HVS 5a
    Gain the rooflet and high groove. PR Left of the stream gushing down the chimney/crack

  15. Ooze A Bad Boy Then - HS
    Just right of the gusher, the crack to a large tree. 5m.

Main Section

The Main Section is dominated by a pool. Routes can be reached by walking over the small dam wall. Behind the dam is an obvious buttress and a diagonal terrace at a higher level.

Just left of the pool is a wall with...

  1. Ed... - MVS, 4c
    Crack and arete (PR) to shared LO. 8m

  2. It Had To Happen - Fr. 5+
    L hand sport line to chain LO. 12m

  3. Bolts On Grit - Fr. 5+
    Sport line L of Bernard's Balls Up. String around twig and bolt LO. (Stolen awaiting replacement). 11m

  4. Bernard's Balls Up - E3, 6a *
    The wall immediately left of the obvious off width behind the pool, PR, finishing up a flake crack 1 m below the top. A good fingery number. 12m

  5. Maz - VS, 4c
    The obvious off width and the overgrown corner above and left. 26m

  6. Lie Dream Of The Casino Soul Scene - Fr. 7a+
    Climb the left arete of the pillar to join Greet Whopping Jugs at the ledge. 12m

  7. Greet Whoppin Jugs - E4, 6b
    Climb the face left of Calling The Shots. 12m

  8. Calling The Shots - E4, 5c **
    The excellent arete above the little dam. 12m

    Just to the right and directly above the pool is another wall and undercut block.
  9. Anzac Day - Fr. 4+
    Some moss remains still but the dust will settle.

  10. Well Heeled - VS,4c
    The crack in the centre of the slab above the pool and R of the arete of Calling The Shots. Re-cleaned and brushed. 12m

  11. Talking Turkey - Fr. 6a
    Nice climbing once the rubbly groove is exited. Shares LO with Well Heeled.

  12. Cold Turkey - Fr. 5
    Left side of undercut block.

  13. Fed Up Of Turkey - Fr. 5+
    The R arete of the block traversing L to join the shared LO of Cold Turkey.
  14. Gobble In Turkey - Fr.6a
    Short,dirty and nasty sidewall to single bolt LO.

Above this wall is a terrace with a few large trees.

Calcanium Wall

Scramble easily up the leaf litter (in situ rope to assist if not already stolen).

  1. Bohlers Angle Reduction - Fr. 6a *
    A few metres R of the brambly corner, nice and slabby except for the last tricky move to the shared LO.

  2. Sub Talar Depression - Fr. 6a+ *
    Delightful slab climbing, more consistent than previous but with an easier finish.

  3. Calcanium Crunch - E3 5c **
    Bold climbing up the slab to the big horizontal tree LO. Peg replaced and cleaned, retro "specialed" for the unique 80's experience.

  4. Birch Groove Barmy - Fr. 6a+
    Climb the wall just L of the grubby groove containing the birch tree, some tricky moves help to avoid using the veg.

Retrogenius Wall

Above and left of the Bernards Balls Up wall is a similar tree filled terrace gained by a short scramble up and left of the route Ed.

  1. Ash Die Back Flake - Fr. 5+
    The buttress at the far left of the terrace.The left hand route starting from the ledge.

  2. Pie Dreams Fr. 6a
    Step up by the tree,shared L.O.

  3. Bathtime - VS 4c
    The uncleaned corner crack.

  4. Retrogenius - Fr. 6b
    Left-most stapled route un relentless crack.

  5. Stimulation Ovulator...... - Fr. 4
    (....like, for example, cats). Up the steps to the arete. Then curse the clown who put the lower-off so far to the left.

Overgrown Right Bay

To the right at the lowest level the rambling overgrown part of the quarry is located.

  1. Free Wales Army - E1,5b *
    The arete down to the right of Calcaneum Crunch, starting on the left is better than it looks, PR. Hard for the grade. Uncleaned and 'peg' rusted. 15m.

    The exact line of the next three routes is not known for sure.

  2. Whatah - VD
    The layback crack up the corner to the right of a small arete to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall, with a move out left. 12m.

  3. Scream - S
    To the left of Whatah, climb the corner and fractured crack to the grass ledge on Whatah. Take the crack at the back of the ledge to the top. 12m.

  4. Phil's Arete - D
    The arete to the right of Scream. Poor, with loose rock. 15m.

  5. Harbour Wall - S
    The centre of the prominent red wall. 15m.

    Follow the stream easily to where it cascades out of the wall to find a final good section consisting of a long arete with an often damp steep wall to it's right then R again a red wall..

  6. It Happens All The TimeFr. 6a**
    The excellent long arete.

  7. Dolts On GrotFr6a **
    More excellent climbing on the wall just R of the arete to a shared belay(or just as good to the belay on the R)

  8. Mere Pseud Mag Ed - Fr. 6b
    The wall and flake R of the long arete. 14m

  9. Alibi- E3 6a*
    The central wall in the penultimate bay of the quarry. Excellent wall climbing leads to the high central crack of Bralibi. 15m.

  10. The Brawl - E3,6a **
    The crack to the right direct then up the arete. 12m.

  11. The Gall - Fr.6b
    An easier variant of the previous, step R at the big jug to ledges then swing back left to finish up the arete.

  12. Bralibi - Fr. 6b+ *
    Crack on right then step L to central crack. Holds at top muddy and need cleaning. LO. 12m.

FIRST ASCENTS

Left Hand Section

  1. E. Travers-Jones, A. Sharp, P. Lewis 16.04.1992
  2. S. Coles 05.04.1992
  3. R. Lawrence 05.04.1992
  4. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 30.05.2015
  5. G. Ashmore 05.04.1992
  6. G. Ashmore Dai Emanuel ?.04.2015
  7. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 21.05.215.
  8. N.O'Neill R.Thomas 21.05.2015
  9. R.Thomas R.Phillips 11.05.2015
  10. E.T Jones R.Thomas 17.05.2015
  11. R.Thomas R.Phillips 11.05.2015.
  12. R.Thomas R. Phillips G.Ashmore2015
  13. Nick O'Neill R.Thomas R.Phillips G.Ashmore 04.2015
  14. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 04.2015.
  15. Nick O'Neill R.Thomas 04.2015.

Main Section

  1. Nick O'Neill R. Thomas 26.04.2015
  2. R. Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015
  3. R. Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015
  4. M. Crocker, R. Thomas 08.04.1989
  5. Unknown Pre-1973
  6. G. Ashmore Dai Emanuel 19.04.2015
  7. C. Evans, A. Jenkins, P.Green 00.00.1992
  8. M. Crocker, R. Thomas 08.04.1989
  9. R. Thomas N. O'neill 26.04.2015
  10. R. Thomas, M. Crocker 08.04.1989
  11. R. Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015
  12. R. Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015
  13. R. Thomas E.T. Jones 23.04.2015

Calcanium Wall

  1. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 29.04.2015
  2. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 29.04.2015
  3. R. Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989
  4. R.Thomas E.T Jones 17.05.2015

Retrogenius Wall

  1. R.Thomas E.T Jones 17. 05.2015
  2. Project
  3. Unknown Pre-1973
  4. D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015
  5. D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015

Overgrown Righthand Bay

  1. M.Crocker R.Thomas 1989
  2. Unknown Pre-1973
  3. Unknown Pre-1973
  4. Unknown Pre-1973
  5. Unknown
  6. R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 27.06.2015
  7. 'R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 27.06.2015
  8. G.Ashmore with Roy Thomas 30.05.2015
  9. M. Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989
  10. M. Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989
  11. R. Thomas G.Ashmore 20.03.2015
  12. G. Ashmore 20.03.2015