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Llangattock
Contents
Preamble
The routes at Llangattock lie within a series of old limestone quarries dotted along the escarpment for a length of approximately 3 miles.
The escapment is situated high above the Usk Valley, overlooking Crickhowell and offers superb views across the valley to the hills beyond.
It is an exposed cliff that faces north and so it can be cold when windy.
Three points should be noted to ensure a safe and productive visit.
First, seepage can be a problem. Paradoxically, cold, windy conditions often give the driest rock and the best opportunities.
Second, the steep, boulder-strewn slopes at the top of the crag often have to be safeguarded with a rope. Dust and/or mud also affect the tops of climbs, which, deserve inspection and/or leaning.
Finally, a hostile local farmer keeps removing belay stakes (particularly in the Chwar Pant Y Rhiw area) so, again, check before embarking on that big lead! Hopefully bolt belays will be installed in the near future (watch this space).
Access
In April 1998 after years of work by Brecon Beacons National Park Authority and the BMC an access agreement was finally reached to allow climbing on Llangattock hillside.
Furthermore the BMC is still in negotiation with the landowners to provide a new age solution to this crags inherent difficulties.
A group booking system has been established and group leaders intending to visit the crag should contact Crickhowell Adventure Gear (Tel: 01873 810020) to make bookings. Bookings can be made up to 8 weeks in advance and there is a limit of 3 groups of up to 15 people (total per group) per day. A small charge is payable to help cover wardening costs and the BMC Access Fund also makes an annual contribution towards costs. There will be no bookings when stock gathering is taking place.
Individual climbers access is not affected. - Although the 'Farmer' would have you believe otherwise!
Some Photographs
Approach
NOTE: The Llangattock Escarpment passes through Craig-Y-Cilau National Nature Reserve. Climbing on Chwar Mawr and Craig Agen Allewdd is by permit only.
For the Eastern Edge (GR215147 to GR205154) to Chwar Pant-Y-Rhiw (GR203155 to GR195157) there are several access possibilities. The easiest is via Gilwern, (just off the A465 ‘Heads of The Valleys Road’). Take a lane (Church Road) opposite the Corn Exchange Inn, which leads after a mile or so to Llanelly church. Go around the church yard to the left (north) and take the second turning left (opposite a telephone box). Follow this single track lane, praying that you do not meet an on-coming Land Rover, for about a mile. Just after the cattle grid, the lane goes up to meet a road contouring the hillside. Turn sharply right onto this and follow it for another mile to the NT car park on the left. Do not park anywhere else if you value your car (see note about local farmer above!) but, like all NT car parks in the hills, beware of thieves and leave nothing of value.
The contouring road can also be gained from Brynmawr, if approaching from the west along the A465.
The Eastern Edge is directly above the car park, Chwar Pant-Y-Rhiw is to the right and is reached by following the main track to some old ruins, from where the right-hand fork leads to the Pinnacle Bay.
2. Craig-Y-Castell Approach For Craig-Y-Castell continue through Gilwern on the A4077 to Llangattock, then follow the Beaufort road uphill towards the B4560 and park just beyond a cattle grid (at about GR177168). The cliff can be seen above the bracken slope on the left.
DESCENTS
Descents are generally down obvious paths.
THE ROUTES
The Far Eastern Edge
This is the small cliff at the extreme left-hand end of the escarpment. From the west side of the car park a small track leads straight through bracken to the Eastern Edge. Follow this to the edge and then walk about 300m east to reach the Far Eastern Edge.
The edge here is formed around a main central bay. There is a slabby area on the left below a skyline level tree. The central part has an overhang at 6m and a central groove below, which is often wet. The right-hand part features a small cave below an arete.
Although less imposing than many other parts of Llangattock, the Far Eastern Edge has a number of interesting routes and is well worth a visit.
1. Mirror 25m VS,4c
Start right of grass ledges on the left side of the bay. Climb up a corner in the lower slabs and avoid a prickly bush to reach ledges. Move right and climb cracks on the left to finish.
J.Harwood, ANO 31.00.1983
2. Waiting For Those Summer Evenings 25m HVS,5a
Start immediately right of Mirror at a thin crack leading to the small overhang. Surmount this, then a move right, PR gains the right-hand side of the slab. Finish easily.
P.Bruten, L.Davies, P.Thomas 16.04.1989
3. Barndoorer 25m VS,4c
Start as for Waiting For Those Summer Evenings, but strike immediately right towards the right end of the overhang. Using the arete, quickly make an awkward move, then ascend the right edge of the slab.
L.Davies 06.04.1991
4. Only The Lonely 25m HVS,5a
A variation on Barndoorer. Gain the right-hand side of the overhang and using the arete, making a barn-door move to gain the upper wall. Finish easily.
L.Davies 00.00.1991
5. Reunion 22m E1,5b *
This finishes up the left side of the clean wall below the prominent skyline tree. Start as for Only The Lonely and climb the corner and a second corner to round the overhang and reaches ledges. Follow finger cracks up the left side of the clean wall.
J.Harwood 27.05.1986
6. Class Of 66 22m E2,5c
Start 3m right of Reunion below the skyline tree. Climb up slabs to just left of centre of the clean top wall. Climb this via a very shallow depression in the grey wall.
J.Harwood 27.05.1986
7. Rock In A Slot 22m E3,5c *
Follow the water marks on the right side of the clean wall, immediately below the rowan tree at the cliff top. 2PRs.
T.Penning, J.Boosey, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999
8. Invert 22m HVS,5a
Climb slabs below the prominent skyline tree to the top wall. Move right and climb the wall, just right of the smoothest part to a small ledge. Move up and left to finish at the tree.
J.Harwood, ANO 31.05.1983
The central part of the bay is distinguished by a long overhang, at about 6m. A crack on the left side leads to a break level with the overhang.
9. Whoops Brian 12m HS,4a
Climb the crack to the break at 6m. Move left to reach easy ground and then go up to a tree. It is also possible to climb the strepped crack directly above the break. This is 5a and a bit loose.
A.Bidwell, D.Jury 18.10.1998
10. Alien Summer 18m E3,5c
The best line on the central wall. Climb the corner in the centre of the central wall to the roof. Move left and follow the finger cracks in the wall above to exit left.
J.Boosey, T.Penning, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999
11. Schools Out Forever 30m E4,6a * 
An improbable line taking the short, hanging groove above the overhang 7m right of Alien Summer. Climb the wall to the break and a gap in the overhang, PR, jammed nut. Pull over and left into the hanging groove and climb to the overhang, PR. Traverse left to ledges, then climb up past two small trees to a ledge. Finish up the groove on the right past a borehole thread.
T.Penning, N.Mullin 24.09.2002
The right-hand part of the bay houses a cliff divided into two by an arete. At the bottom of the arete is a small cave.
12. Sound Barrier 20m E3,6a *
A good pitch up the left side of the steep wall, which is the left flank of the righthand cliff. Climb easily up to reach the steep wall and follow a thin crack on its left side, 4PRs. Trend right at the top to a bushy tree belay.
T.Penning, J.Boosey, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999
13. Edge Of Silence 22m E4,6b *
An interesting pitch taking the thin crack in the steep wall to the left of the arete of Cotton Wood Café. Start 6m left of the small cave. Climb up with interest to reach the crack. Follow this with even more interest, 3PRs.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, B.Sparrow 18.08.1998
14. Cotton Wood Café 22m E2,5b *
Start at a small cave below the arete on the right-hand side of the bay. Climb a rounded groove above the cave to ledges at 10m, trend left to the arete and finish up this.
J.James,S.Thompson 00.00.1986
15. Wowaiuh 12m VS,4b
Start as for Cotton Wood Café but follow the obvious rightward-rising traverse line to a ledge (the BB has gone, so improvise an escape)!
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1990
16. Wrestling The Polar Bear 20m E3,5c *
The overhanging crackline just right of Cottonwood Café. Finish as for the latter or as for Hesitation.
P.Thomas, L.Davies 00.00.1990
17. Hesitation 20m HVS,4c *
Takes the crack and groove just right of Wrestling The Polar Bear and then two walls to finish at the obvious tree. Pleasant.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, D.Jury, B.Sparrow, D.Parker 18.10.1998
18. Bid The Return 10m E3,6a (Fr 6c)
It is not known whether this route has been repeated since the BR was removed. Start 4m right of Wrestling The Polar Bear, below an obvious shothole at 2m. Move up and right to the shot hole, then up and left to gain the groove, (BR, removed). Climb the groove with difficulty to exit right.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.04.1993
The Eastern Edge
This part of the Llangattock Escarpment lies immediately above the car park and can be approached in less than 10 minutes by a track which leads up through bracken from the west side of the car park. The Eastern Edge can be divided into three sections. The main central section is a rather featureless wall which has two horizontal faults, just above and just below half-height respectively, which are often greasy and run across most of its width. At the left (east) end, around the corner past an easy descent ridge, is a smaller section containing an obvious bottomless chimney - the line of Grenoble. At the right side of the Eastern Edge, around a slight corner is Fighting Cock Buttress, after which the long, steep, smooth Winning Wall forms the next section of the crag.
Grenoble Buttress
Just before Grenoble buttress is a short area of cliff, with an arete.
19. Lost In Time 14m HVS,5a
Climb just left of the arete.
N.Mullin, T.Penning 24.09.2002
20. Nic Of Time 14m HVS,5b
The central line on the arete.
N.Mullin, T.Penning 24.09.2002
21. Bite Size 25m VS,4a
To the left of the chimney of Grenoble is a slab. This loose climb takes the groove in the slab.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 18.05.1982
22. Little Jerk 25m HVS,5a
Another loose climb which takes the cracked groove to the right of Bite Size.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 18.05.1982
23. Heart Bypass 30m E2,5c *
As for Heart Route below to the giant thread. Move left past a PR to gain a crack and finish up this.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, T.Forsyth 25.08.2002
24. Heart Route 30m E3,5c **
Start at the obvious crack up and left from the lowest part of the face. From the crack go up to a short, shallow chimney to the start of the upper wall, PR, thread. Pull up and move left to a giant thread. Continue direct past 2PRs to finish up a final groove. One of the best routes here, superseding Mistral (E2,5b, J.Harwood 1986).
T.Penning, N.Mullin 03.09.2002
25. Grenoble 30m VS,4c
Takes the very obvious chimney. Climb a crack and move left to gain the chimney which is followed to the top and a stake belay. Currently vegetated.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 18.05.1982
26. Poison Ivy 30m E2,5b
Start below the middle of the wall to the right of Grenoble. Climb to a short corner in the overhang and pull over on large creaky holds, PRs. Make a tricky move up and finish more easily.
T.Penning, C.Day, G.Bartram 15.09.2002
At the back right-hand side of the Grenoble bay are two caves with a hanging slab to the right.
27. Old Shep 7m E1,5a
Delightful but short. Meander up the slab, PR.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1989
28. Wicked Lauren 6m E2,5b
Very, very short. Ascend the waterworn groove to the right of Old Shep.
P.Thomas, L.Davies 00.00.1989
Main Area (Eastern Edge)
The main part of the Eastern Edge comes next. It is bounded on the left by an easy descent ridge. Although there are a few stakes in place (particularly in the Azolla area), some forward planning is advised before embarking on a lead!
At the right side of this section of the cliff, a small tree grows from the grass ledge about 5m up and just left of the arete.
In the centre there is a blocky overhang at half-height, beneath which is a cave entrance at ground level. Penwood Special takes the crack towards the right side of the overhang. In the middle of the wall to the left a small semi-circular chimney (ZX) can be seen in the upper part.
About 15m left of the Rowan tree is the first route.
29. Gavin Cytlau Likes Putty 8m HVS,5a
Start about 5m left of a groove (Em Won) and climb the wall to finish by the obvious crack. Walk off left.
N.Mullin, T.Forsyth 25.08.2002
30. Em Won 18m E2,5b
The obvious groove 6m left of the tree.
N.Mullin, T.Forsyth, J.Harwood, T.Penning 25.08.2002
31. Company Flow 14m VS,4c
The crack 5m right of Em Won. At the grassy break traverse right to the Rowan.
N.Mullin, T.Forsyth 25.08.2002
32. Flik On The Rope 12m E1,5b
Start just right of Company Flow, below a bottomless crack. At the top of the crack, trend right to finish at the tree.
T.Forsyth, N.Mullin, J.Harwood, T. Penning 25.05.2002
33. 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea 10m E3,6a
The line right of Flik.
T.Penning 00.10.1998
34. The Mile High Club 10m E3,6a
The thin crack to the right, PR.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, T.Forsyth 25.08.2002
35. Bitter Bark 33m E2,5b
Start beneath a groove, just left of a wall with a semi-circular chimney in its upper half. Climb the wall to the ledge, move right, then left to a hollow. Pull into the obvious groove and follow it, PR, to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 06.08.1982
36. Z.X. 33m E1,5b *
Start under the semi-circular chimney in the upper wall. Climb a groove and wall, then the chimney to exit right.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 08.09.1981
37. Space Between My Ears 33m E2,5b
How did it get that name? Start as for Z.X. Climb, trending rightwards to a tree. Continue on poor rock and climb a short corner to a hawthorn. Step left and climb to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 11.05.1982
38. Penwood Special 23m E2,5b *
Right of Z.X. is a line of overhangs at 12m. Climb a crack in a left facing corner to the right-hand end of the overhangs. Traverse left for a metre and pull into a wide groove, which is followed more easily to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 20.07.1982
To the right of the overhangs of Penwood Special is a long rather featureless wall with two horizontal grassy bands, the upper one at half-height.
39. Wall Of Glass 30m HVS,5a
Start on the left side of the wall. Climb the crack to a grassy ledge and very thin tree, then move up and left to climb a short corner at 20m height. Traverse right for 3m, then gain the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 25.08.1981
40. No Ref 30m HVS,5a
Climb a thin crack right of Wall Of Glass to a grass ledge, move right, then left to join Wall Of Glass. Finish leftwards up the slabby corner.
J.Harwood solo 26.08.1983
41. The Gambler 30m E2,5b *
Originally given HVS! Start beneath a slanting crack in the centre of the long wall, at three short cracks at ground level. Climb the cracks to a grass ledge, step left and climb up to the slanting crack and then to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 25.08.1981
42. Bruten Lee 26m HVS,5a
Start 3m right. Climb a thin crack and a brown groove in the upper wall.
P.Thomas, L.Davies, P.Bruten 00.00.1984
43. Azolla 26m VS,4b
A good introduction to the wall and the most obvious line. Start at a pair of obvious cracks below a shallow groove in the upper cliff and at the left side of the highest part of the grass underneath. Climb the left crack, step left and then continue straight to the top via a groove.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 25.08.1981
44. The Backsliding B 26m HVS,5a
Climb the crack just right of Azolla, joining the latter near the top.
J.Harwood 26.08.1983
There is an obvious flowstone wall to the right of Azolla.
45. Parson’s Pleasure 27m E2,5b
Climbs the left side of the stalactite wall to the right of Azolla. Start midway between the starts of Azolla and Wonderful Life. Go up to the first break, PR and continue straight up the wall past a second break on slightly friable rock to the top. Continually interesting.
T.Penning, I.Parsons, J.Harwood 13.04.1997
46. Boozey’s First Climb 27m E3,5c *
Climbs the centre of the flowstone wall, left of Wonderful Life. The best pitch on the ‘featureless wall’. Start at the right side of the cliff, just before the grass landing drops away. Climb the thin crack passing a PR at 3m, then move up to the first horizontal break. Continue to the second break and on to the top.
T.Penning, J.Boosey, J.Harwood, I.Hattam 11.10.1998
47. Wonderful Life 30m HVS,5a
At the right edge of the ‘featureless wall’ there is a tree on a ledge at 5m, above some overhangs. Start 5m left of the tree. Go diagonally up to the ledge left of the tree and then gain the shallow groove above the tree, which is followed to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 25.08.1981
48. Animal Lunch Box 27m E5,6a
A powerful pitch giving varied climbing of a serious nature. If you like that sort of thing, the pitch may be worth a star! To the right of Wonderful Life the cliff is dominated by a large roof. About 6m from the right end of the roof is a slim crack/groove. Climb the crack/groove to the roof and move right to a PR. Using a Friend for aid, reach over the roof to an obvious flake crack. Surmount the roof and get established above. Continue cautiously up a band of obviously loose rock to better climbing on the upper grey wall. 2TRs indicate the interesting finish. An impressive climb.
T.Penning 04.10.1998
Fighting Cock Buttress
Around the corner from the ‘featureless wall’ is the right-hand section of the Eastern Edge. It is topped by loose bands and contains some exciting looking rock! It is bounded on the right by the long, smooth wall – Winning Wall. At its right side is an area of grey rock, with a prominent right-facing groove which is taking by Fighting Cock.
49. Vendetta 33m E3,6a *
Climb the groove left of the start of Fighting Cock, TR, then a rib to a sloping ledge. Pull over a roof and pull up right into a short groove. Move up leftwards then pull round a bulge and up a steep wall. Climb a slim groove exiting right at its end.
M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.06.1985
50. Fighting Cock 26m E3,5c *
A good climb with a bold finish. Climb a short crack below and right of an obvious groove, then move across left to gain the groove. Climb it to the top. Belay well back.
T.Penning, G.Gibson, P.Cresswell, C.Court 02.09.1984
51. Race Against Time 14m E1,5b
Start 3m right of Fighting Cock. Climb to an overhang from the right, PR, pull over and finish via the crack above.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 24.05.1986
Winning Wall
This long steep wall contains some of the hardest routes at Llangattock. It is approached by walking right from the Eastern Edge. The smooth part of the wall has a very shallow groove line in its centre (Winning) and is bounded on its right by the crack-line of Cold Snatch. Further right still is an area of overhangs, with a big roof near the base.
Wonderlands 27m E6,6b *
Extremely thin and sustained. The in-situ gear is old and fragile. Climb a shallow groove at the left-hand end of the wall. Move left across an unstable ledge and climb directly up the grey flowstone wall, PR, 2BR's. A long reach from a projecting hold gains a dirty, grassy ledge. Continue easily to a good tree. Needs cleaning.
M.Crocker 08.08.1987
53. Mad Hatter 20m E5,6a
A much easier proposition than Wonderlands, but still serious. Start below an obvious grey streak in the wall left of Stay Sharp. Climb to a nose (missing TR), to a further TR, and continue with difficulty, PR. Stretch for a small hold and then finish rightwards.
G.Gibson, H.Gibson 31.08.1984
54. Stay Sharp 27m E4,6a
Start below an obvious leftward-curving water-worn groove. Climb up and trend right to a grassy ledge, then move left to beneath the slanting groove, poor PR. Climb straight up, PR, to good holds and continue up the corner to the top. Stake belay above.
A.Sharp, T.Penning 25.07.1982
55. Winning 27m E3,5c **
One of the best routes at Llangattock, taking an improbable line up the wall about 10m right of the curving groove of Stay Sharp. Climb cracks in the centre of the wall to a loose band, step up and go left into a very shallow groove line, 2PRs. Climb the groove to a small pocket, move up, PR, and trend rightwards to finish.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, C.Court 12.06.1984
56. Hitman 27m Fr 6c+ *
Start 6m right of Winning at crack lines leading to the top of an easy ledge system. Climb to the top of the ledges and move straight up, TR. Step left, BR, then climb direct by a series of extending moves to the top, PR.
G.Gibson 03.07.1987
57. Culmination Crack 27m E3,6a
A tough finish. Start as for Hitman, with easy climbing below and left of a crack high up on the cliff. Climb straight up over ledges, then traverse right to the crack, PR. Finish directly.
G.Gibson, T.Penning, P.Cresswell, C.Court 02.09.1984
58. Cold Snatch 33m E1,5b *
Climbs the crackline that bounds the right side of the smooth part of Winning Wall. Start 6m left of a large overhang at the base of the cliff, below and left of a grassy ledge. Climb thin cracks, move right and up to the grass ledge and a band of shattered rock. Step back left to a thin crack and follow this to the top.
P.Littlejohn, D.Renshaw 29.06.1979
59. The Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine 40m E2,5c *
Climb Cold Snatch to the band of shattered rock, traverse right to a ledge, PR, below a short corner capped by a small overhang. Pull into the corner, 2PRs, then move rightwards and up to a ledge. Traverse left and finish up cracks. There is an alternative finish from the short corner on the right, which goes back left to gain a diagonal left trending crack which finishes at the top of Cold Snatch.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 23.08.1982
60. Mean Green 40m E4,6a
A short, direct start to the previous two routes. Climb a short groove right of Cold Snatch, PR (missing). Finish as for The Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1983
61. Liberator 40m E4,6a **
Start 2m right of Mean Green. Climb a thin crack, PR, until forced right into a shallow corner, PR. This leads to an overhang. Swing left to a good ledge, move up right into the short corner of The Big Bright etc, 2PRs and climb the crack above taking its left-hand branch to finish.
C.Court, L.Davies 12.06.1986
62. The Roaring Eighties 43m E5,6a
A magnificent challenge through the roofs between Pleasure Machine and West Wind, which has recently suffered a major rock-fall. The original description is included for optimists! Start 7m right of Liberator. Up a shallow groove past a roof to a break at 8m, traverse right to steep rock. Up to a good hold and pull over a roof and the next roof using a tree, which is no longer in situ! Traverse right until difficult moves gain a good flat hold up and right. Climb a shallow groove above and finish up a thin curving crack on the right. Many PRs.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 26.07.1985
63. West Wind 36m E1,5a *
Start 3m right of the large overhang. Climb the wall bearing slightly left to a break. Move left and up to a narrow ledge. Climb the wall via a flake, before moving right to a groove, which is climbed to the top. Belay well back.
P.Littlejohn, D.Renshaw 29.06.1979
64. Tramp 8m HVS,4c
The small groove, flowstone and scoop right of West Wind.
L.Davies solo 00.03.1986
Right-hand Area
Right of Winning Wall, the cliff is broken until a large area of flowstone/cave at ground level. Left of the cave is a corner and left again another corner with flowstone above. Approach is via the main diagonal track from the car park.
65. Domino Theory 38m HVS,4c
Climb the shallow corner, step right then continue up the deep cracks to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 27.04.1982
66. Sister Sledge 33m E1,5b
Climb the shallow corner with the crack in the back, some 3m left of the cave at ground level, to reach a curving corner crack. Follow the corner crack to the top. Loose.
C.Court, T.Penning, J.Harwood 12.06.1984
67. Angel In My Pocket 33m E3,5c *
Serious but satisfying. Start 5m right of the cave. Climb a left-trending ramp leading to an overhang. Pull over it and continue, TRs (some missing), to the top.
T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 29.05.1984
68. The Dark Ages 30m E2,5b *
Start on a block below a scoop at 7m and directly below the slanting chimney of Sir Hammer. Climb leftwards to a break, move up right into the scoop and step back left onto a ledge. Climb the sheet above via a crack, TR. Move left and up to finish.
M.Crocker, M.Ward 29.06.1985
A recent rock-fall has rendered the following two climbs very dangerous, with much unstable rock to negotiate.
69. Sir Hammer 33m E1,5b
Start beneath a chimney-crack line on the right-hand side of the wall. Climb a thin crack and a small overhang on its right, then up the chimney to exit rightwards.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 20.07.1982
70. Second Generation 33m E2,5b
Start just right of Sir Hammer. Climb a corner onto the wall above, then a shallow corner to the top.
T.Penning, P.Cresswell, C.Court 08.05.1984
At the far right-hand end of the Eastern Edge is a square slab (Nerve Test Slab) above a small ruin on the main
diagonal track from the car park.
71. Nerve Test 22m E2,5c
Start by scrambling up to the left side of a slab. Traverse right, with feet on poor rock to a ledge, then climb sloping ledges and a thin crack to the top of the slab. Scramble off rightwards.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 27.04.1982
72. Shock Dose 30m E2,5b
The slab right of Nerve Test. Climb the right-hand of twin cracks in the initial wall and step left to a ledge. Move up, then leftwards to gain twin cracks and the top.
M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.06.1985
73. Aegina 20m E1,5a
As for Shock Dose to the ledge, step right and continue up the wall, TR, moving right to finish up a corner.
L.Davies, D.Leitch 19.07.1986
Chwar Pant Y Rhiw
This is the most popular section of Llangattock and is approached easily in about 10 minutes by following the main track which leaves the west side of the car park. At the small ruin, take the right-hand fork in the track to reach the Pinnacle Bay Area.
Chwar Pant Y Rhiw is broadly split into two sections. The left (Eastern) side contains a mixture of grades including some suitable beginners routes. For that reason it has been popular with Outdoor Centres. The cliff is divided into halves at a ridge (Corner Buttrees Arete), beyond which things become distinctly more impressive. Indeed, an area of formidable overhangs gives the right-hand side of Chwar Pant Y Rhiw some of the hardest and most serious routes at Llangattock.
Pinnacle Bay
At the extreme left-hand end of the bay, high up on the grass slope, is a small buttress of natural limestone. Below and right of this the cliff starts in earnest.
74. The Pinnacle 10m S
Climb anywhere up the centre of the small natural buttress on the left-hand end of the bay.
Unknown Pre-1973
At the left-hand end of the main cliff is a broad shallow recess between two noses, normally with a muddy pool to its right.
75. Scoop 16m VD
Start at the shallow recess between the noses. Climb on the right for 3m, then traverse left to gain a ledge above the left-hand nose. Finish left or right.
Unknown Pre-1978
76. Spirogyra Corner 20m HS,4a
In all but the driest weather there is a muddy pool at the foot of the wall right of Scoop. Start 3m left of the pool. Climb a groove with a small overhang at 5m to gain a nose, then to a ledge and silver birch tree. Move up to a rock tower and take this on the right.
Unknown Pre-1978
77. White Wall Direct 20m VS,4b *
The White Wall is obvious, being lighter coloured than its surroundings, due to drainage. Start just right of the pool at three grassy ledges. Scramble to the second ledge, then climb to a nose, which is taken on the right. Move left then climb a rib on its right to finish.
Unknown Pre-1978
78. Little Red Rooster 20m HVS,5b
Climb the shallow corner 6m right of White Wall Direct and continue directly to the top.
C.Court solo 00.00.1983
79. Excalibur 20m E1,5b
A difficult start. Climb the steep wall, PR, right of Little Red Rooster to finish on easier ground.
C.Court solo 00.00.1983
80. Switchblade 20m HVS,5a
Climb the obvious short corner right of Excalibur to a small overhang. Pull over this and climb the short wall above. Finish as for Straighter.
C.Court solo 00.00.1983
81. Straighter 20m S *
Start 9m right of the pool to the left of some grey rubble. Climb a blunt pillar and short wall to a ledge. Finish up the rib.
Unknown Pre-1973
82. Diagonal 22m S
Start 4m right of Straighter at a corner/crack beneath a nose. Gain a slabby scoop, then traverse left and up to a very short rust-coloured corner. Continue to a tiny overhang and finish leftwards.
Unknown Pre-1973
83. Ornithology 22m S
Climb to the slabby scoop as for Diagonal, then move right to another scoop. Exit right and follow ledges up left to finish up a corner above a small cave.
Unknown Pre-1973
84. Apollo XI 22m VS,4c
Climb a short steep crack right of the corner crack of Diagonal to a ledge. Continue over small ledges to a short chimney leading to a good ledge below a bulging nose. Finish up the corner right of the nose.
Unknown Pre-1973
85. Bespoke 22m VD
Start at a steep wall right of a short open chimney and left of an overhang. Climb a crack system and steep wall before moving right to a scoop. Finish direct, via a cracked wall.
Unknown Pre-1973
86. Spiral Stairs 23m D
Start as for Bespoke. Climb right over short steps to a blank wall and continue right to easy ground. Scramble back left and finish via mossy blocks and a cracked wall.
Unknown Pre-1973
87. Straight Stairs 23m VS,4b
Climb a corner to the left of the blank wall, over an overhang and finish easily.
J.Harwood, M.Ismail 18.07.1998
88. Original Route 23m D
Right of Bespoke the cliff projects to form a blunt toe. Climb over easy steps and a short wall, then trend right to various finishes.
Unknown Pre-1973
89. Pant-Ing 23m VS,4b
Start in a slight depression right of Original Route and climb straight over slabby walls, trending left with difficulty, to reach a deep crack on the right side of the headwall. Climb this to the top.
J.Harwood, M.Ismail 18.07.1998
90. Piton Traverse 21m VD
Start 6m right of Original Route, 12m left of a large shallow chimney below and just left of a bushy tree at halfheight. Traverse left to ledges then back right to a recess below the final wall. Cross a nose to a ledge and finish by a corner/crack.
Unknown Pre-1973
91. Raven Route 21m VD *
Climb the shallow groove 4m right of Piton Traverse and step right onto a steep wall. Move up right then left to a large ledge. Climb the black wall on its right and finish up the corner/crack.
Unknown Pre-1973
92. Crusty Wall 21m S
Climb a grey wall just left of a large chimney to a ledge. Finish straight up.
Unknown Pre-1973
93. Sad Groove 21m S
Climb the large shallow chimney, which is below and just left of a bushy hawthorn tree at half-height, finishing up loose cracks.
Unknown Pre-1973
To the right of Sad Groove the lower part of the cliff is smoother.
94. John’s Jaunt 19m HVS,4c
Climb a thin crack 4m right of the large chimney, then a short wall to a ledge right of the hawthorn. Finish straight up. Getting onto the ledge is awful!
J.Harwood 11.08.1977
95. Dus 19m VS,4b
Start at shallow groove 9m right of a large chimney. Climb up and left to a ledge at 6m, move right and up to a grass ledge. Finish straight up.
J.Harwood 11.08.1977
96. The Pedestal 19m VS,4b
Start at the right edge of a blank wall. Climb a shallow corner leading to a shale ledge, with a small pedestal. Gain the shale band above and finish via a mantleshelf and a short crack.
Unknown Pre-1973
Right of the blank part, the wall is more broken and obviously loose. Then there is a break in the cliff. To its right the wall is marked by a line of overhangs.
97. Man About The House 9m HVS,5c
Start below and left of the overhangs at a steep slab 2m right of an obvious crack. Climb just right of the nose to pass a small overhang.
L.Davies solo Pre-28.06.1984
C.Court direct 00.00.1985
98. Jailbird 19m HVS,5a
Climb the crackline in the centre of the slab, passing a small overhang. Finish as for The Creaking Flakes.
C.Court solo 00.00.1983
99. The Creaking Flakes 20m E1,5b
Start 3m right of Jailbird. Climb a steep rib and trend left to flakes, move left and up to a hawthorn. Climb the corner behind and finish by either of two cracks.
Unknown Pre-1973
100. Entertainer 19m E2,5b
Start 2m right of The Creaking Flakes. Climb an inverted v, pass a small overhang, PR and finish up an arete.
P.Bruten, L.Davies 07.09.1985
101. Wildest Dreams 20m E2,5c *
Climb a crack in a shallow corner right of Entertainer. Step right and pull over two bulges, PR, to a hawthorn. Finish up the corner left of a nose.
D.Hillier, S.Edwards 00.00.1982
102. Visions In Blue 9m E4,6a
Climb the wall and bulging crack right of Wildest Dreams past a poor PR.
L.Davies, P.Bruten 20.07.1985
To the right of the area of overhangs is an obvious cone of grass (!) The following climb starts from the top of this cone.
103. Ramblin’ Sid 19m S
The first break in the overhangs, above a cone of grass. Climb a corner and short wall to a tree, then follow a sloping corner to a choice of cracks to finish.
Unknown Pre-1973
To the right of Ramblin’ Sid, the wall bends outwards and is split by a number of grooves. Its bounding right edge is taken by Break Of Day.
104. Hideaway 18m S
Start right of the overhangs above the grass cone. Climb an overhanging corner, moving right at a yellow block, to finish up the wall above.
Unknown Pre-1973
Right of Hideaway the wall projects and passes a cave at ground level.
105. Hidden Rib 18m VD
Climb a grey groove and broken slab on the left to a yellow block. Climb over this and finish up the wall above.
Unknown Pre-1973
106. Nice One 19m HS 4b
The groove between Hidden Rib and Fingernail Crack.
L.Davies solo 00.08.1986
107. Fingernail Crack 19m S
Start 3m right of Hidden Rib. Climb a thin jagged crack in a corner and go left via steps to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall above.
Unknown Pre-1973
108. Break Of Day 19m HS,4a
The wall immediately right of Fingernail Crack, to gain the obvious break. Climb the arete to the ledge and finish up cracks in the wall.
L.Davies solo 00.00.1986
Around the corner from Break Of Day is a cave.
109. Cuticle 19m VS,4a
Right of Fingernail Crack and left of a cave entrance is a smooth 4m wall. There are many ways up it.
Unknown Pre-1973
110. Hymns And Arias 7m E1,5c
A boulder problem with a good landing. Climb a steep wall, right of Cuticle, with a small overhang at 4m. This is just left of the obvious crack of Purple Putty.
L.Davies 00.00.1985
111. Purple Putty 19m VS,4c
Start at an obvious crack 2m left of a cave entrance. Climb up over a loose bulge at 4m to a shale band, traverse right to a crack and finish up this. Needs cleaning.
D.Hillier solo 00.00.1982
112. High Frequency 19m E2,5b
Committing. Start at the left side of the cave. Climb up slightly right, over the loose band to finish just left of a shallow corner. Take care with the rock.
C.Court, M.Davey 00.00.1983
113. Heat Of The Moment 19m E2,5b
Start 2m right of the cave. Climb up and step left over the cave to a block at the shale band. Finish via cracks and a flared corner. Friable.
D.Hillier, P.Jones 00.00.1982
114. Strawberry Flare 23m HVS,5a
Start 6m right of the cave entrance at an obvious crack. Climb the crack past a block to the shale band and finish up the corner above.
Unknown 1978-1983
115. Little Overhang 19m HVS,5a
Start 12m right of the cave at a crack in a corner with a small block overhang at 4m. Climb above the overhang to a resting ledge on the right. Move left to reach a shale band and finish up left via steps and the final wall.
Unknown Pre-1973
116. Puraka 18m HVS,4c *
Start as for Little Overhang. Climb to the resting ledge, then go up right to reach the shale band. Finish up a short corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
117. Gold Rush 18m E1,5b *
A good climb. Start 12m right of Puraka in a cracked corner under a roof. Climb the corner and then at 7m an overhang on its left. Continue up the wall above and finish through the break in the top overhang.
C.Court, L.Davies 00.00.1984
118. Apache 18m HVS,5a
Start 15m right of Puraka. Climb an obvious arete with a triangular block at 4m, then the corner above.
C.Court, M.Shepherd 00.00.1983
119. Cowboy 14m VS,4b
Towards the right-hand end of this section of cliff, 2m right of Apache, before a small buttress where the cliff turns, there is a sharp projecting rib. Climb a corner on its left to gain the top of the rib, then follow steps to the upper wall which is climbed via some thin cracks.
Unknown Pre-1973
The shale band crossed by the next two routes, is currently in a dreadful state (probably as a result of the cone of grass by Ramblin Sid).
120. Passage to Andrea 18m E3,6a *
An alternative start to Julie Andrea. Start 2m right of Cowboy and just right of the rib. Climb a shallow groove and crack line, PR, then move up and right to the tree. Finish as for Julie Andrea or abseil.
I.Waddington, Gwent M.C. 00.00.1986
121. Julie Andrea 18m E3,6a
Sustained and technical. Start 3m right of Passage to Andrea. Climb a bulging crack to the tree at half-height, then step up and right to a small ledge. Trend left to a shallow corner, PR, and straight up to finish.
C.Court, T.Penning 08.05.1984
122. White Tiger 17m E3,5c *
Bold climbing. Start at a large corner 9m right of Julie Andrea. Climb the cracked corner to its top, then move right over the bulge and easily up to a ledge at half-height. Climb the wall above, trending right, poor PR - but good Friend above, to a small ledge. Move back left and finish directly.
C.Court 00.00.1983
The next thirteen climbs start from a ledge halfway up the cliff, which is easily reached from the right. At the back of the ledge is a loose looking corner (Brer Rabbit, VDiff, Pre-1973) above a spiny bush. The first climb starts 15m left of Brer Rabbit, at the far left end of the ledge, below a very thin crack in the wall above and about 3m left of the obvious crack of Don’t Walk Over My Head.
123. Wild Life 8m E2,6a
Start below the thin crack. Climb a ramp then trend right to a narrow ledge below the thin crack, PR. Finish straight up the crack.
C.Court, L.Davies, P.Thomas 25.06.1986
124. Don’t Walk Over My Head 8m VS,4b *
This takes the obvious crack line in the wall left of Brere Rabbit and 3m right of Wild Life.
Unknown Pre-1978
125. No Shit 8m VS,4b
Start 3m left of Brere Rabbit below a rib. Climb the wall to take the rib on its right.
C.Court, N.Haines 00.00.1982
126. Brere Rabbit 8m VD
The loose-looking corner.
Unknown 1973-1978
127. Rotten Wall 8m S
Climb the obvious crack right of Brere Rabbit.
Unknown Pre-1973
128. Night Shift 8m HVS,5b
Right of Rotten Wall is a crack, and right again of this is a line up the wall. Climb this to the top with protection from side runners.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1986
To the right are three corners.
129. Limbo 9m S
Climb the left-hand corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
130. Misty Haze 9m HS,4a
The arete right of Limbo.
P.Thomas solo Pre-14.05.1984
131. Missing Link 9m S
The second corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
132. Dunno 9m HS,4a
The third corner, finishing left or direct at VS,4b.
P.Thomas solo Pre-00.05.1984
133. Middle Corner 9m HS,4a
A right-hand finish to Dunno.
Unknown Pre-1973
134. Corner Buttress 12m D
A useful descent. From the toe of the buttress where the cliff turns, scramble up toand climb the right-hand corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
135. Corner Buttress Arete 12m VS,4b
Climb the buttress, where the cliff turns and faces northwest.
Unknown Pre-1973
After turning the corner, the cliff is dominated by a steep wall, covered in flowstone. It is bounded on its right by the obvious right facing corner of Hangman.
Flowstone Wall
The following seven routes offer pleasant climbing on what is usually good rock.
136. I Can See Clearly 17m VS,4c
Start as for Corner Buttress Direct. Traverse the flowstone wall from left to right at 12m. Finish up Perk.
L.Davies, P. Bruten 10.06.1986
137. Man of Mystery 12m VS,4b
Start 3m right of Corner Buttress Arete. Climb cracks just right of the arete to the top.
C.Court, N.Haines 00.00.1982
138. Suddenly Last Summer 14m VS,4c
Start on the slope leading down from Corner Buttress Arete, under the steep flowstone wall at a small recess. Climb cracks above the recess, traverse 1m right and finish straight up past a diagonal web of flowstone.
T.Penning solo 29.09.1981
139. Christmas Spirit 15m VS,4b
Start at a crack just right of Suddenly Last Summer. Climb the crack to finish up Suddenly Last Summer.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1983
140. Perk 18m VS,4b *
Pleasant climbing on good rock. Start on a block at the lowest point of the flowstone wall and follow the line of least resistance to the steep headwall. Traverse right into the large crack to finish, or move left to finish direct.
J.Harwood 11.08.1977
L.Davies, P. Bruten, P. Thomas - Direct 00.00.1984
141. Knight Flyer 18m VS,4b
Start 4m right of Perk. Climb a crack and wall above, then trend left to finish as for Perk.
C. Court, N. Haines 00.00.1982
142. Free Runner 18m VS,4c
Start 3m right of Knight Flyer. Climb flowstone right of a small tree, to finish up a faint crackline.
P.Thomas, L.Davies Pre 26.06.1984
143. Bridlevale Wall 21m E2,5b *
A good introduction to the harder flowstone climbing. Start at a short crack above a grass cone and slightly right of the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to the flowstone and follow this directly to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, M. Learoyd 15.05.1984
144. Wild Touch 24m E3,6a *
The hardest route on the flowstone wall. Start about 4m left of the crackline of Passage of Time, which is at the right side of the flowstone wall. Climb the flowstone directly, to a faint crackline and finish up this.
C. Parker, ANO 05.10.1983
145. Cry Havoc 24m E2,5c **
Excellent climbing with good protection. Start just left of Passage of Time. Climb to a disjointed crackline and follow it to a small hole. Then either traverse right to join Passage of Time or continue directly (more strenuous, but about the same grade) to the top.
T.Penning, P. Cresswell 30.11.1980
Direct: T.Penning, J.Harwood, C. Court 01.05.1984
146. Passage of Time 24m E1,5b **
An excellent climb marred only by its exit. Start on the right side of the flowstone wall at a block with a fine crack above it. Climb the crack and finish up and left.
P.Littlejohn, D.Renshaw 12.06.1979
147. Edge of Time 33m E1,5b *
This climb takes the arete right of Passage of Time. Climb Passage of Time until level with a small overhang. Traverse right to the arete and climb it easily, but in a fine position, to the top. A spectacular and easy alternative is to abseil down the arete to belay on the lip of the overhang. Climbing back is VS,4b and offers a very exposed pitch for the grade.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 15.05.1984
Main Area (Chwar Pant y Rhiw)
To the right of Flowstone Wall, the cliff is dominated by a series of daunting overhangs, where only the bold dare to venture! Most of the climbs follow powerful lines and offer the true ‘Llangattock Experience’. Some cleaning may be needed to remove the debris swept down from the winter rains. Care should always be taken to safeguard exits and if necessary the state of the in-situ gear.
148. Hangman 30m E4,6a *
A difficult climb. Start on the right of the flowstone wall below and right of a big corner, right of a huge boulder. Climb a groove to the overhang, then traverse left to beneath the corner. Move up left over the overhang into the corner and climb this to exit right. Belay well back. A small rockfall near the bottom of the corner may mean the climb is now more difficult.
The Hanging Corner A2 Unknown Pre-1973
P. Littlejohn, D. Renshaw 29.06.1979
149. More Fool You 30m Fr 7a+ *
Start as for Hangman. Climb the groove to the overhang, then traverse right to a ledge. Pull over the roof and move right to a resting place, PRs, BRs. Step back left and climb the wall, PR, to the top. Belay well back, or leave a rope in place. The in situ gear is in a bad way.
Unknown Butterfly Wall A2 Pre-1973
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.07.1979
150. Fool’s Executioner 33m E3,6a *
This climb takes the diagonal crack leading out right from More Fool You. Follow More Fool You to beneath the overhang (possible belay). Pull over the overhang and then move across right to the crack. Climb the crack to the top and belay well back.
T.Penning, P.Cresswell 19.06.1983
151. Johnny Cum Lately 33m E3,6a *
An impressive route, with some dubious rock. Start at a crack below the red overhang to the right of the corner of Hangman. Climb the crack to its top. Swing right, PR, to a ledge beneath the centre of the overhang. Climb up to the overhang and traverse left on undercuts to a good resting place. Continue up the crack above to exit left. Belay well back.
T.Penning, A.Sharp 31.08.1982
152. Acid Rain 30m E5,6b
The start is desperate. Start right of Johnny Cum Lately, at a shallow corner crack. Climb the crack to the overhang. Pull round this into the short v-groove (crux), which is followed to a ledge beneath the main groove. Climb this groove to exit left. Belay well back.
Unknown Cavemen’s Route A2 Pre-1973
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt. 11.09.1982
FFA C.Parker 00.00.1983
The smooth wall right of the groove of Acid Rain, ends at a rounded arete with blocky overhangs beneath. Right of this is a deep-set groove, the line of IQ Test.
I.Q. Test 42m E5,5c 5pts (Fr 6c+) *
A powerful and serious pitch taking the awe-inspiring groove line at the left end of the central overhangs. Climb the groove past a small tree to a PR at 7m. Move left using PA, F 1-1/2, and nut, until the wall can be climbed to the main overhang. Two PAs are used to cross the roof to the foot of the groove, PR, TR. Climb into the main groove using a large flake on the right and continue past the yellow rock band, PR. Traverse left at the top of the yellow band for 3m.BB. Or climb easier ground to the top. More rewarding for those who like adventurous climbing!
T.Penning, J.Harwood 5pts 16.08.1988
154. Heaven Can Wait 21m E4,5c 2pts (Fr 6c) *
An impressive pitch, which climbs the centre of the large central overhangs to reach the shallow basin above. Start at a groove below the central overhangs. Climb the groove to a break (Friend 4) and traverse right until a ledge can be gained. Climb the grey wall, 2PRs, move left and up to below the roof. 2PA lead to spectacular moves via two large flakes to the end of the roof, PR. Move up and left to the BB on Children Of The Moon. Finish up this or abseil.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 2pts 09.08.1988
155. Maggie’s Gate 20m E4,6a
Climb Heaven can wait to the ledge. Climb the thin crack above with difficulty, PR to a ledge. Pull up and out left to another ledge. Continue past a sapling on suspect rock and belay well back. Spectacular.
T.Penning, G.Cytlau 08.10.2002
156. The Hundred Years War 30m E3,5c *
Fine climbing above the overhang. To the right of Heaven Can Wait there is a break in the large overhangs at 10m. Start below and right of two slanting grooves, at a capped corner. Climb the corner to exit left at a shale ledge, beneath the overhang. Pull over the overhang, step left, then climb straight up, PR, via twin cracks to exit right. Belay well back.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 07.09.1982
157. Obsession 30m E4,5c **
An alternative finish to the Hundred Years War. Offering excellent climbing on rock which is solid apart from the shale band. Follow The Hundred Years War to just above the overhang, then continue up the shallow corner to the right of the twin cracks, 2PRs.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 23.08.1988
158. Children of the Moon 75m E3,6a,5b *
A sensational right to left traverse above the main overhangs.
1. 36m Climb The Hundred Years War to just above the overhang, and level with the lip of the big overhangs. Traverse left, 2PRs, (crux) to easier ground. Climb up left to a good ledge and belay in the huge shallow bowl. There is a logbook here for fellow lunatics to sign and make comments.
2. 39m. Continue left over detached flakes into the big v-groove of IQ Test. Step across left on to the wall and move up, PR. Continue left around the arete and on to a steep wall. Make your way to the top and belay well
back.
T.Penning, P. Cresswell 20.05.1984
159. American Mi Mi 33m E4,6a *
Start beneath a large detached block at 6m up and to the right of The Hundred Years War. Climb carefully onto the block from the left. Pull over the overhang and climb to another overhang with a groove on its left. Climb the groove to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood, C.Court 1pt 27.07.1983
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1983
160. Split Second Rhyming 30m E3,6a
A difficult climb. Start below an obvious curving crack, 6m up and to the right of American Mi Mi. Climb a wall to blocks, make hard moves into a groove and layback out left. Continue up the groove above to the top.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1983
The central overhangs now peter out and the next feature is a pair of grooves.
161. Average Hand 30m E2,5c *
Start below the left-hand groove. Climb a crack, move slightly left and pull over a bulge into the groove which is followed to the top.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 25.07.1982
162. 5 Miles Out 30m E2,5b *
Start at a shallow left-facing corner, below the right-hand groove. Climb the corner into the groove and follow this with interest to the top.
T.Penning, P. Cresswell, A. Sharp 18.07.1982
163. Animal Eric 30m E2,6a *
A hard start. Start just right of 5 Miles Out. Climb a short wall (crux), PR, to the left-hand of two cracks. Follow this crack to exit right then left.
A. Sharp, J.Harwood (start only) 11.09.1982
T.Penning, J.Harwood 14.09.1982
164. Singapore Sling 30m HVS,5a *
Start at a shallow corner leading to the right-hand of two cracks. Climb the corner to a small ledge at 4m. Climb the steep wall on the right and the crack above to exit leftwards.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 07.09.1982
165. Belshazzar’s Dream 23m VS,4b
Start at a shallow corner just left of a grassy cone. Climb the corner to a deep groove with a sapling. Move right to a small ledge 3m above the sapling. Finish up the wall.
Unknown Pre-1973
166. Thread Bear 21m HS,4b
This climb takes the left side of the flowstone wall right of the grassy cone.
T.Penning, J.Harwood 29.09.1981
167. Hairy Bear 18m HVS,4c
This climb takes a line up the white flowstone just right of Thread Bear.
T.Penning solo 10.06.1984
Black Wall
This is the steep black wall of flowstone at the right end of the Main Area, with a large corner at its right-hand end.
168. Funky Flowstone Route 18m E3,6b *
Start on the left side of Black Wall. Climb into a niche and up on to a ledge above. Climb straight up to some pockets, TR, then move up right on to a rounded ledge. Step back left and finish direct.
M.Crocker, G.Jenkin 09.06.1985
169. The Black Adder 18m E3,5c *
Serious with a hard move high up. Climb the line of black flowstone on the right-hand end of the wall.
T.Penning, P.Cresswell, C.Court 10.06.1984
170. Skin Tight 21m E4,5c
Serious. The arete right of The Black Adder. Climb straight up and continue just left of the arete to easier ground. Belay well back.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 26.07.1985
171. Spindrift 18m HVS,5a
To the right of Skin Tight is a large corner. This climb takes the obvious crack in the right-hand wall.
C.Court, T.Penning 10.06.1984
172. Crack Down 18m E2,5c
Around the corner from Spindrift are two prominent cracks. This strenuous climb takes the one on the left.
C.Court, L.Davies 00.00.1984
Chwar Mawr
GR SO195157 to SO185158
This crag is within the Craig-y-Cilau National Nature Reserve with whom negotiations for a permit to climb must be made. The following routes have been recorded in the past, prior to 1973, but no-one is known to have received permission since then.
Unknown Wall (S), Mur Ddu (S), Shoot Route (HS), Insley’s Groove HVS (presumably Harold Insley Pre-1973), Weeping Wall (S), Black Brow (VS), The Harrow (HS), Banana Skin (VS), Pothole Route (D), Rabbit Hole Route (S), Eglwys Faen Buttress (S) all Unknown Pre-1973.
Craig Agen Allwedd
GR SO185158 to SO183165
This crag is within the Craig-y-Cilau National Nature Reserve with whom negotiations for a permit to climb must be made. The following routes have been recorded in the past, prior to 1973, but no-one is known to have received permission since then.
Munchmeadow (M), Gnat’s Dinner (VS), Alan’s Arete (VS), Al Fresco (S) all Unknown Pre-1973.
Craig Y Castell
Grid ref SO182166
From the lay-by just beyond the cattle grid (SO185169), cross the road and follow the obvious track up to the left end of the cliff.
At the left-hand end of the cliff is a small buttress where the woods begin. At the left side of the buttress is an easy descent marked by a silver birch at its top. Right of the small buttress, the cliff sticks out in a small prow and 10m right is a small bay above a hawthorn tree. 10m right of the hawthorn is another small bay with another hawthorn tree at the cliff top. 20m right is a small brown wall, below abseil bars on the clifftop, then the cliff leads past a small cave (Catacomb) to a bay with a vegetated right corner (God’s Teeth). The cliff then becomes overhanging. Right of the overhangs is a polished buttress (Rowan Route). The cliff continues to a grassy rise at its base with a vegetated corner (Green Corner) to its right. Further right is an ivy covered overhang, and 50m right of this is an obvious corner (Stupid Sapling). Some 20m right of this corner is a large overhang at 10m and 30m further right is a short chimney which marks the end of the routes described. To the right of this chimney are some small walls which may be climbed from D to VS.
The first route described is just before the woods at the left most end of the cliff.
173. Mudfall Wall 10m VS
A mud-streaked face at the far left of the crag, just before it disappears into the jungle of the reserve. Start left of centre then traverse right, then back left to finish.
Unknown Pre-1973
174. Crackin Wall 12m E1,5b
The obvious crack on the left side of the prow near the left-hand end of the cliff.
C.Court, M.Bishop 00.00.1984
175. The Left Twin 15m VD
Start 6m right of Crackin Wall and follow twin cracks on the right side of the prow.
Unknown Pre-1973
176. The Right Twin 15m VD
Start 3m right of The Left Twin. Climb cracks to a ledge, then the groove and cracks above.
Unknown Pre-1973
177. The Rock Garden 15m VD
Loose. The sloping ramp 3m right.
Unknown 1973-1978
178. Stromboli 23m HS,4a
Gain and climb the corner 10m right of the hawthorn tree at the base of the crag.
Unknown Pre-1973
179. Rebecca 24m VS,4b
The thin crack right of Stromboli. Finish right of the hawthorn bush.
Unknown Pre-1973
180. Storm 24m E2,5b **
Start 6m right of Rebecca, below a gap in the block overhang at 8m. Climb to and over the worrying feature to a ledge. Step right and follow a crack to finish.
P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 30.06.1979
181. Tempest 17m E1,5b
Just right of Storm. Climb a crack and the overhang via an obvious block. Finish direct.
C.Court, M.Bishop 00.00.1974
182. The Ascent of Rum Doodle 18m VS,4b
Start right of Tempest and left of the small brown wall, below an obvious clean corner on the upper wall. Climb cracks, step left to a crack in the corner and follow this to the top.
Unknown Pre-1978
183. Abseil Wall 18m VD
The easiest line on the wall below the abseil bars. Climb a groove on the right side of the brown wall. Climb the groove to exit onto the right arete below bulges (junction with Daedalus). Move left and up the wall until the left edge can be gained and then the top. Solid rock, albeit polished by countless feet (moving in the wrong direction).
J.Harwood 21.08.1999
184. Daedalus 17m VD
Start right of the brown wall. Climb a crack curving beneath an overhang, then pass it on the left. Finish easily.
Unknown Pre-1973
185. Daedalus Direct 17m S
The left arete of the original start on good holds to a junction with that route at 6m.
L.Davies solo 00.08.1993
186. Heaven’s Gate 17m HVS,5b
Follow Daedalus to beneath the overhang, then pull over this to gain a thin crack.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 17.05.1985
187. Cool Touch 17m E2,5b
A faint line just right of Daedalus. Climb to an overhang (loose), then finish via the ledge above.
L.Davies, P.Thomas, M.Henry 31.05.1985
188. Fleet Feet 17m E1,5c
Climb the centre of the wall between Cool Touch and Catacomb. A difficult start leads to easier ground above.
C.Court, M.Bishop 00.00.1984
Next the cliff leads past a small cave.
189. Catacomb 17m VS,4b
Climb out of the small cave. Finish left of an overhang.
Unknown Pre-1973
190. Accidentally Right 17m VS,4b
Climb Catacomb to an overhang, traverse right along a ledge to finish up the corner of Orang Utang.
J.Hamill-Keays, J.Hamill-Keays 00.00.1989
191. OrangUtang 17m VD
Start between the cave and a large tree growing out of the rock at a slight rib. Climb a crack and corner above to the top.
Unknown Pre-1973
192. Sheisskopf 17m S
Climb up behind the large tree to a hawthorn. Climb the wall and overhang above to finish.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1978
193. Jackorner 17m VS,4b
Climb cracks to the right of the large tree and continue over ledges to a hawthorn stump. Climb flowstone to finish up the corner above.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1980
194. Beware of Crocodiles In The Trees 17m E1,5a *
Follow the deep crack right of Jackorner to an overhang. Surmount this to gain the niche and small hawthorn. Move up and left to cracks and the obvious tree to finish.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1993
195. Tales Of The Unexpected 17m E2,5c *
Start beneath the overhang 4m right of Jackorner. A poorly protected start leads to the overhang, poor PR, but good wires above. Pull over this to finish straight up.
L.Davies, P.Bruten 18.05.1985
196. The Rain Man 17m E2,5b *
Start 2m right of Tales Of The Unexpected and climb directly to the right-hand side of the overhang. Move leftwards through the overhang, poor PR. Step up right to finish as for Gods’ Teeth.
L.Davies, G.Christmas 00.08.1993
About 18m right from the tree growing out of the rock is a vegetated corner.
197. God’s Teeth 17m VS,4c
A poor climb keeping just left of a vegetated corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
198. Rockfall Climb 20m VS,4b
The original description does not match the rock, so the following is the probable line. Start just right of a cave at the base of the right side of the vegetated corner. Climb a shallow groove then trend right to finish up the shallow corner of Duty Free.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1979
199. Duty Free 21m VS,4c *
Start 4m right of Rockfall Climb, below an obvious corner and right of block overhangs at the top of the cliff. Climb a shallow corner crack to ledges below a roof with a large corner on its right. Move right and finish up a corner.
C.Court, M.Bishop 00.00.1984
200. The Descendant 17m HVS,4c
An alternative start to Duty Free which gains that route at 9m by climbing up the arete.
L.Davies solo 00.08.1993
There now follows a bowl capped by overhangs. The next climb breaks through the roofs via cracks at their left side.
201. How To Stuff A Wild Bikini 20m E2,5c *
Start to the right of Duty Free, at a thin crack. Climb easily to a band of overhangs and pull over these, past a detached flake.
C.Court, P.Bruten 00.00.1984
Right of the overhangs is a short, mud-streaked, polished buttress.
202. Trading Places 15m HS,4b
Start to the right of the overhangs, but left of a grassy mound. Climb a steep crack in a short polished buttress until it merges with Rowan Route.
L.Davies, J.Smith 00.00.1986
203. The Route To Rowan 17m VS,4b
An alternative start to Rowan Route, which ascends the prow/arete of the polished buttress, directly right of Trading Places to a junction with Rowan Route at 6m.
L.Davies solo 00.08.1993
204. Rowan Route 20m VD
Start from the grass on the right. Climb direct, past small rowan trees on the left, to the top.
Unknown Pre-1973
205. Tarzan Boy 15m E1,5b
Start at a groove 2m right of Rowan Route at the high part of the grass, below a small weakness in an overhang at 5m. Climb up and over the overhang, trend left to a flake crack and finish up the steep wall.
P.Bruten, L.Davies 03.08.1986
206. Split Indifferences 18m VS,4c
Start at a shallow crack line 3m right of Tarzan Boy. Follow the crack to reach grassy ledges. Trend up and left to the centre of a small wall. Climb straight up via a thin crack, PR.
L.Davies, J.Smith 15.05.1986
207. Canyouhandlit 17m VS
Start 6m right of Rowan Route. Climb the wall leftwards to grassy ledges. Continue leftwards to finish up a corner past trees.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1979
208. Irrelevant Grope 17m VS,4c
Climb a crack in a groove as for Typhoid, move right at an overhang and finish up flowstone.
D.Hope 00.00.1980
209. Typhoid 15m VS •
Start 7m right of Rowan Route, at a shallow groove. Go almost directly up the wall and left past the overhang. Move back right to finish up a curving crack in a groove.
Unknown Pre-1973
210. Lime Juice 17m E1,5c
Start right of Irrelevant Grope. Climb a smooth wall, then an obvious crack up the headwall.
C.Court, P. Bruten 00.00.1984
211. Fresh 17m E1,5b
A variation start to Lime Juice taking a thin line to its right. Finish up the crack in the headwall.
L.Davies solo 00.00.1985
212. Castell Main XXXX 15m E2,5b
Climb the obvious corner right of Fresh to its top and exit via some holds on the right-hand side. Step left then up and right onto the flowstone wall above. Finish straight up.
C.Court solo 00.00.1986
213. No Peg Route 17m HS
Start just right of Castell Main XXXX. Climb flowstone to a ledge, then the wall above.
N.Grant, N.Kinsford 00.00.1978
109. Cuticle 19m VS,4a
Right of Fingernail Crack and left of a cave entrance is a smooth 4m wall. There are many ways up it.
Unknown Pre-1973 Kingsford 00.00.1978
The above entry left as per guidebook, can someone review it and then remove this comment please? --Petersheppard (talk) 22:46, 24 November 2013 (GMT)
214. Once Shy 17m S
Start at an overhanging crack, right of No Peg Route and just left of a flake on the ground. Climb the crack, step right and finish up the wall or, after 4m, traverse right to a sandy groove and follow this.
N.Grant, N.Kinsford 00.00.1978
215. Lucky Nut 15m VS,4b
Start right of a flake in the ground and about 10m left of a green corner. Climb through a break in a small overhang, past a hawthorn, and finish direct.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1978
216. Green Corner 15m VD
Climb the obvious vegetated corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
To the right is an ivy-covered overhang and 40m right again is the prominent corner of Stupid Sapling. Several routes have been reported in the area from ancient times (pre-1973) but their descriptions completely bamboozled the previous guidebook writer who omitted them. Only three of them have been successfully re-identified by the intrepid Professor Harwood.
217. Once Bitten 17m VD
Start 6m right of an ivy covered overhang. Climb a broken corner, move right, and finish up the rightwards leaning groove. This may be a line previously referred to as Poor Tom (pre-1973).
Unknown Pre-1973
218. Valhalla 17m VS,4b
Climb the broken corner of Once Bitten until it is possible to take the crack on the left.
Unknown Pre-1973
219. Central Slab Direct 15m VD
Start just right of Once Bitten. Climb the centre of three slabs (Possibly the old line of Arctic Wall Unknown Pre-1973).
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1980
On the next wall to the right (just right of a large tree growing at 3m) there is a tottering flake on the halfway ledge.
220. The Needle 15m VD
Start below the tottering flake. Climb a crack and corner to the flake. Then up to a small cave. Finish out left.
Unknown Pre-1973
221. Mountain Hash 15m S
Start below and right of the tottering flake of The Needle. Climb broken rock to a ledge, then the cracks above, to finish between two rowan trees.
Unknown Pre-1973
222. Fisher’s Folly 20m VS,4c
Start at a v-groove about 6m left of Stupid Sapling. Climb to a break, traverse right and move up to a large ledge. Trend right to a grassy ledge, then finish up the broken crack.
Unknown Pre-1973
223. Stupid Sapling 15m VD
Climb the prominent corner.
Unknown Pre-1973
224. The Hobbit 15m VS,4b
Climb the obvious crack 2m right of Stupid Sapling. Step right to finish.
Unknown Pre-1973
225. Castell Craig 15m E1,5b *
Follow cracks in the wall 2m right of Flash. 2 PRs.
C.Court, M.Rosser 00.00.1986
226. S Route 15m S
Start 4m right of Stupid Sapling. Climb a corner to a flake crack, then climb this to finish up flowstone.
Unknown Pre-1973
227. Chicken 17m VS,4c
Start at a tree 10m right of Stupid Sapling. Climb up behind the tree, then traverse right to a bush and finish direct. Rather pointless.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1979
10m right of the tree of Chicken is a large overhang at 10m with rather unstable looking rock all around. Just right and at a lower level is another overhang at 6m.
228. Red Mike 17m VS,4c
Start below the right end of the overhang at 6m and below a finishing groove. Gain the groove from the left.
T.Penning, P. Cresswell 18.04.1982
229. I Should Smile 17m E3,5c
Climb the weakness in the wall right of Red Mike, finishing up the very thin cracks in the headwall above.
P.Thomas, L.Davies 03.07.1985
To the right of the overhangs are three cracks, the left one leading to a groove with a large tree at its top.
230. Diarrhoea Crack 17m VS,4c
Climb the left-hand crack and finish up the wide groove above.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 1pt. 00.00.1979 FFA T.Penning solo 18.04.1982
231. Road to Nowhere 17m E1,5c
Climb the thin central crack.
L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 00.00.1985
232.Crack of Gwent 17m E1,5b *
Climb the right-hand crack.
Gwent M.C. 00.00.1985
233. Developing World 18m E2,6a
An eliminate. Follow a shallow groove (between Crack of Gwent and Quiet Hero) for 6m BR, to join Crack of Gwent. The BR has been removed and it is not known if the route has yet been ascended without it.
L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1988
234. Quiet Hero 17m E2,5b
Start 2m right of Crack of Gwent just right of some iron sticking out of the ground. Climb an arete to a flake crack above, then move up to finish more easily.
P.Thomas, L.Davies 14.06.1986
235. Peaches And Cream 18m E2,5c *
Start at a short blocky groove 6m right of the cave. Climb the wall PR, to the overhang. Pull over this and into a right-facing corner on good jams. Finish leftwards.
C.Court, L.Davies 00.00.1985
236. Slurry 17m S
Start 4m left of Briar Crack, where the overhangs end. Climb a groove to a bramble, move up right and climb a corner to finish rightwards.
N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1980
237. Only Yesterday 15m VS,4b
Climb the grooves above the start of Slurry, i.e. a direct finish.
L.Davies, D. Leitch 14.00.1986
238. Briar Crack 6m VD
The short chimney, just before the cliff becomes very scrappy.
Unknown Pre-1978
239. Jug Thug 8m E2,5b
Start 6m right of Briar Crack. Climb the broken crack line through a series of overhangs.
C.Court solo 00.00.1986
240. Redstart 8m HVS
Start 3m right of Jug Thug at a hawthorn. Climb to a ledge left of the hawthorn. Move out left at the same level to beneath the corner of the overhang. Move up and left to a crack, then finish up the steep headwall.
Unknown Pre-1973
