Lewistown

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR SS (2)93373 (1)88614

51.586257 -3.5404247

CF32 7LR

PREAMBLE

A small crag above Ogmore vale, which can seep heavily after prolonged rain. However some areas remain dry and have seen further developement. A handy summer venue for the jaded Bridgend and district locals with a few hours to spare in the evenings. There is also plenty of scope for bouldering for those who like their vices "solitary".

ACCESS

Leave the M4 at J36 and follow the A4061 to Lewistown passing first through Bryncethin and finally Blackmill. A recently restored housing estate will be seen on the left and at the national speed limit road sign take a sharp left-hand turning. Continue steeply uphill, bear right at the first fork, then right again to a rough track. Follow the rough track for 2 0m and park on the right. Walk 100 m up a grassy bank to gain the quarry and do not leave valuables in the car!

The crag is just visible on the left (from the main road) as you leave the village should you overshoot.

THE ROUTES

This is a small box like quarry. At the back (left) is a 3 m step with a grassy terrace and 6 m wall above. On the right side of this terrace is a slabby wall. Right again is a steep often weeping wall with some nearly always wet projects and right again is the entrance wall with the original routes.

The route are described left to right starting at the back of the quarry.

1. Son Of Onan - Fr. 6a
   A steep pull at the start, walk up the grass then a stiff tug to finish off the final tower. Take a spare "biner" as the original was stolen. 15 m.
   
   
2. Make A Tight Fist - Fr. 5
   The left hand line on the slabby wall starting from the grassy terrace. Steady at first with a final spurt to gain shared belay on back wall. 12 m.
   
   
3. Good For Your Wrist Fr. 5
   The right hand line on the slabby wall just left of the arete. Watch out for the final crafty hand swop. 12 m.
   
   
4. I've Bin Lard In - Fr. 6b+
   Start from the floor of the quarry follow the left hand line of glue bolts. 13 m
   
   
5. Weeping Wall Projects
   One day all will be dry, until then gaze in awe. 13 m
   
   
6. Chokin' the Chicken - Fr. 6a+
   The left hand line on the entrance wall, save some pulling power for the grand finale. 10 m.
   
   
7. Five Knuckle Shuffle - Fr. 6a+
   Right again, jerk on up the tenuous holds. 10 m.
   
   
8. Kleenex Man - Fr. 6a+
   Beware the start which could bring you to a sticky end. 9 m.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

Link title

1. R.Thomas N O'Neill
2. R.Thomas N O'Neill
3. R.Thomas N O'Neill
4. G. Ashmore R.Thomas
5. Sometime when dry
6. R.Thomas N. O'Neill
7. Nick O'Neill R.Thomas Ed Rees
8. Nick O'Neill R.Thomas Ed Rees