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Pennard And Graves End

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Contents

Gower

TIDAL STATUS

Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting

PREAMBLE

Pennard is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as High Pennard and sections of Graves End.

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the Pennard Buttress to High Pennard section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of Pennard Buttress and Graves End.

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing buttress with a good sized level terrace at its foot.

ACCESS

Loading map...

Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the National Trust car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from Hunts Farm (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

  1. Pennard - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
  2. Pennard and High Pennard - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. High Pennard is to your left (east) and Pennard Buttress is to your right (west).

The Great Pillar – as for either Pennard approach, but follow the path below the High Pennard cliffs for 100m.

Lower Sea Cliffs – as for Pennard and Great Pillar, then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain Graves End from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

Graves End – as for Pennard and Great Pillar, but just east of Great Pillar scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of Graves End itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above High Pennard. Graves End Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of Graves End East, reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

DESCENTS

See individual crags.

THE ROUTES

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

Pennard Buttress

GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.


DESCENTS: Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.


1. The Throb 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984


2. Five Years To Live 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

M.Crocker 04.09.1988


3. Arosfa 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

  1. 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
  2. 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983


4. Alpha 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of Arosfa, below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!

  1. 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
  2. 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

Harold Insley etc. 1958/9


The crag is now much shorter.


5. Beta 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of Alpha, which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

Harold Insley,etc 1958/9


6. Unnamed 14m E1,5a

The wall between Beta and Beta Plus can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

Unknown Pre-1998


7. Beta Plus 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of Beta, past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966


8. Hun 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of Beta Plus, joining that route at the top. Contrived.

D.Thomas 00.00.1996


9. Knucklefluster 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of Beta Plus. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up Beta Plus or over the roof.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984


10. Knuckleduster 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between Knucklefluster and Gamma Minus. Climb the wall and overhang directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

A.Long 00.00.1989


11. Gamma Minus 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of Knucklefluster. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967


12. Kiwis Can’t Climb 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of Gamma. Where Gamma moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

Unknown 00.00.1984


13. Gamma 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966


14. Trundleweed 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of Gamma.

P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987


15. Delta 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of Gamma.

M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967


16. Delta Minus 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

SUMC 00.00.1966


17. Flaked Ivy Chimney 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of Delta Minus.

C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996


18. Vandal 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960


19. Girdle Traverse 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

  1. 18m Start as for Delta Minus. Climb into the overhung corner of Gamma and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on Beta Plus.
  2. 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of Alpha.
  3. 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967


Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of Pennard Buttress.


20. Tom Tom 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (Alpha P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988


21. Dan Dare 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for Tom Tom. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982


22. Desperate Dan 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to Dan Dare. As for Dan Dare to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984


23. White Feather 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of Timorous Tarzan is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on Timorous Tarzan, TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins Desperate Dan at the break.

A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986


24. Timorous Tarzan 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980


25. Timorous Tarzan True Finish 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on White Feather.

J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986 FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986


26. Bald Eagle 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of Timorous Tarzan, then step left and climb the groove of White Feather. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984


27. Gull Way 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for Timorous Tarzan.

G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981


In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.


28. Digby 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987


The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b (Unknown Pre-1991)

High Pennard

GR568866


DESCENTS: Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.


This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.


1. Left Edge 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968


2. Blood First 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989


3. Loony Left 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987


4. Sudan 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980


5. Wandering Star 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of Sudan. Start just right of Sudan and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987


6. Skive 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of Sudan at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966


7. Skive Direct 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of Shogun.

R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967


8. Shogun 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982


9. King Rat 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow Shogun over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987


10. Samurai 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow Shogun over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986


11. Kensai 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of Phreatic Line. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with Phreatic Line, below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the Seepage groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986


12. Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

J.Bullock 00.08.1986


13. Phreatic Line 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of Samurai. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999


14. Seepage 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on Phreatic Line, climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

E.Pardoe, C.Knight 00.00.1969


15. Noble House 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of Seepage. From the square ledge on Phreatic Line, go diagonally right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb to the top.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982


16. The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999


To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

The Great Tower

Popty Ping Area


GR569866

DESCENTS: Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.


This is the obvious pillar right of High Pennard. Take care with the rock.


1. South East Chimney 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and vegetated, then left to the top.

Harold Insley, etc.1958/9


2. Triattsdyffi 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967

Great Tower and Top Brass Area

3. South East Edge 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981


4. Don’s Quiet Corner 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000


To the right of the descent gully at the East of the Great Tower a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.


Crack and Scoop HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the Great Tower a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08


Top Brass VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08


The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.


Popty Ping E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08


Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs

GR569864


DESCENTS: Scramble down the east of the crag.


These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by Red Corner.


1. Red Wall 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

J.Talbot 00.00.1967


2. Red Corner 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

J.Talbot 00.00.1967


3. Tor Wall 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

J.Talbot 00.00.1967


4. Deep Crack 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967


5. Cave And Wall 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967


6. Scoop 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

J.Talbot 00.00.1967


7. Great Block 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967

Graves End Wall

GR 570 864

DESCENTS: Down gullies at various points


To the east of The Great Tower, looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.


1. Over Easy 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978


2. Too Late 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of Over Easy.

G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983


3. Marguerite 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981


4a. Vertical Smile 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of Marguerite. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981


4b Vertical frown 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010 N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987


5. Helter Skelter 13m E2,5c *

Climb the lower wall below the top crack of Vertical Smile. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. At the break step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984


6. Sun Fix 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of Helter Skelter. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985


7. Toetector 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of Sun Fix, where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978


The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall.


8a. ThickHead 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

A.Richardson 10.09.1985


8b. Laissez Faire 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of Toetector. A.Giles, etc 1986)

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985


9. Fever Pitch 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between Laissez-Faire and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join TR1 at the recess.

A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991


10. TR1 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of Laissez Faire at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982


11. Drakensburg 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up Vertical Smile. Stances can be taken en route.

J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995


12. Mental Floss 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985


13. Solar 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985


2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.


14. Left Corner 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959

File:Gravesend right corner.jpg
Tim B. on Right Corner


15. Brave Face 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

A.Berry 00.00.1992


16. Right Corner 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959


17. Thorium 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

J.Kerry 00.00.1971


18. Sunflower 13m E4,6a

The wall between Right Corner and Left Pillar, with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995


19. Left Pillar 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959


20. Kamin 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958


21. Friendly 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of Kamin.

C.Squires 00.00.1995


22. Chameleon 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013


23. Neatfeet 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of Kamin.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000


24. Chasm 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

Harold Insley etc. 1958/9


25. Gower Gully Joke 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the Chasm gully.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000


26. Crevice 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of Gower Gully Joke.

H.Insley etc. 1958/9


The short wall to the right of Crevice has a crack and two wide corner cracks.


27. Ivy Saviour 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974


28. Cycle Track 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974


29. Monkey 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

N.Williams 00.00.1980


Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.


30. Miguel 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of Monkey, taking care with the protection.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989


About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).


31. All Too Distant 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988


32. Commit 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of All To Distant, keeping left of the crack at 5m.

P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988


33. Sunny Surprise 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988


34. Eduoardo 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989


About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (Slow Worm).


35. The Hideaway 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988


36. Slow Worm 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988


37. Sweet, Sweet, Sweet 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988


The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

Gravesend East

GR572864


DESCENTS: Down gullies at various points.


This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.


1. Baboon Traverse 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

N.Williams 00.00.1980


2. Cornel 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.


3. Clapham Common 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000


4. Nettlebed 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974


5. Restful 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984 FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986


6. Ass Over Tit 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000


7. The Toboganning Incident 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales Pennard And Graves End


8. Little ‘Un 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

G.Evans 00.00.1980

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.


9. Where Will It All End? 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks. M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.


10. Marmite 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of the second pillar.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977


11. Taipan 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982


12. Graves End Arete 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989


13. Coffin Crack 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977


14. Cleansing Agent 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up the groove above.

G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978


15. Marmolata 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959


16. Dial M for Merthyr 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.


17. Breakout 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS. Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower. Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979


18. A Grave End 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000


19. Overlapping Wall 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

J.White 16.04.1983


20. White Wall 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959


21. The End of the Affair? 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009

The End of the Affair Area

Gravesend Sea Cliff

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.


20. Greystone 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000


21. Unnamed I 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

Unknown Pre-2000


22. Unnamed II 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

Unknown Pre-2000


23. Unnamed III 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

Unknown Pre-2000

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