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Henllys Quarry
GR255944
BOLTING POLICY
New sports routes are allowed - retro bolting permissible with first ascentionists permission (not necessary).
PREAMBLE
A broken, east-facing crag near the summit of Twmbarlwm (the highest southerly point in Gwent), with outstanding views of the Usk Valley and Bristol Channel.
The quarry consists of one large central buttress and a smaller right angled buttress to the left.
The crag is generally slabby with clean cracks and grassy top outs. A wooden post fenceline is available for belays. There is little seepage and the crag dries very quickly due to its exposed position and the bedding of the rock which dips back into the hillside (geologists will note this is because the crag is located upon the far eastern edge of the syncline which forms the South-East Wales Coalfield, less enlightened climbers will simply note the incut nature of the holds).
ACCESS
From the M4 at junction 26, drive up to a roundabout (2 miles), turn left up the A4051 to the next roundabout. Turn left at this roundabout, and left again at the next roundabout. At the next roundabout turn left and follow the road round to Henllys, if not feeling too dizzy by this stage. Turn left just before some overhead cables, and go up the hill to park by Henllys Chapel. Take the footpath up the hill, to where the quarry is soon visible.
Alternatively, if the Forest Drive in Cwmcarn is open, you can drive to the upper car park. Follow the footpath at the car park entrance uphill and then left to meet an obvious conifer plantation on the other side of the hill. The quarry is about 100m further along the rough track north following the dry stone wall.
DESCENTS
It is easy enough to walk down either side.
THE ROUTES
The following routes are hopefully described from left to right:
- Dire Slab - VD
The slab to the far left of the broken wall. 8m - Hang on Crack - VS, 4b
The overhanging crack. 8 m - Farmers Bulge - HVS, 4b
Climb over the bulge to a direct finish (no good protection). 8m - Flaggin Flake - S
the climb next to a small cave to the right of Farmers Bulge. 8m - Chossey Mossey - HS
The obvious arete to the left of the main wall (the grass won't hold you?). 8m - The Exiles’ Line - D
The ‘slabby thing’ over left from the left-hand crack on the central face. 10m - A Tale Of Two Farmers - S
The left-hand crack on the central face of the quarry. Watch out for the chossy grass ledge. An escape left can be made from the ledge. 10m - Farmyard Frolics - S
The central crack. 10m - Castell Henllys - HVS, 4c
The face immediately to the right, with a bad landing and no gear. 12m - The Female of the Species is More Deadly ...Than The Male - S
The face approximately 5m right of the last route, left of a large crack. Climb the groove exiting left at its top, and then finishing direct. 14m
FIRST ASCENTS
- James 86 - 19.09.2009
- James 86 - 19.09.2009
- James 86 - 19.09.2009
- James 86 - 19.09.2009
- James 86 - 19.09.2009
- M.Salter - 00.00.1994
- M.Salter - 00.00.1994
- M.Salter - 00.00.1994
- M.Salter - 00.00.1994
- M.Salter - 00.00.1994
