Hairy Dog Wall

Gower

Fall Bay to Mewslade

GR SS

TIDAL STATUS

2½ hours either side of low water

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

DESCENTS

Either finish up P2 of Hairy Dog (not pleasant) and descend as for Great Boulder Cove, or scramble down and left, or reverse Pollux.

THE ROUTES

Just right of South Cracked Pillar is an acutely overhanging wall with a cave at its right end. This is Hairy Dog Wall. An obvious rightward-slanting groove breaks this wall near its right side. The first route takes the deep crack on the left side of the wall. Taped hands are advisable on the harder routes.

1. Castor 18m VS,4c
   Climb the wide crack to an overhang, passed via the crack on the right.
   
   
2. Pollux 18m S,4a
   The overhanging crack right of Castor.
   
   To the right are a series of very steep cracks, the most prominent of which is Hairy Dog, with a jammed block at 3m.
   
   
3. King Of Pain 15m E6,6b *
   Start 5m left of the start of Hairy Dog below a pocket at 3m. Climb the wall past the pocket to good holds and move right to finish up a desperate crack.
   
   
4. Pump Up The Gower 15m E5,6a **
   Start up Hairy Dog, then swing left to climb the flake-line between Hairy Dog and King Of Pain.
   
   
5. Hairy Dog 33m E5,6a,4a **
   
   1. 12m Climb onto the block at 3m and continue up the left-slanting crack to large ledges. Now lick your wounds.
   2. 21m Continue easily to the top.
      
      
6. King Swing 18m E5,6b **
   As for Hairy Dog to the block, but take the right-slanting crack and the wall above
   
   
7. Hound Of Hell 15m E5,6a *
   Climb the steep crack in the centre of the wall right of King Swing.
   
   
8. Sense Of Doubt 36m E3,6a *
   Start below the slanting groove, at the foot of the overhanging wall, well right of Hound Of Hell. Gain the groove and follow it to its end. Finish up the loose wall on the left.
   
   
9. Without A Doubt 35m E5,6c
   The groove 3m right of Sense of Doubt. A boulder problem start leads to good holds at 4m (these can be lassoed for protection). Follow these holds to a break, traverse left and finish up Sense Of Doubt.
   
   
10. Cerberus 30m E5,6b
    At the back of the zawn is a prominent hanging groove. Start at the offwidth and follow this past a thin crack to a roof. Climb leftwards to the base of the corner, then hand traverse leftwards on undercuts to gain easy ground. A Friend 2 is useful for the belay.
    
    

FIRST ASCENTS

1. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
   
2. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
   
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
   
4. M.Richards, J.Brown 00.00.1996
   
5. A.Sharp, J.Harwood AL 07.10.1984
   
6. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
   
7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
   
8. J.Talbot, R.Corbett - Great Cave Corner 00.00.1962, FFA A.Sharp 00.10.1978
   
9. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.08.1987
   
10. D.Thomas 08.05.1989