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Graig Fawr

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South East Wales Sandstone

GR799867

PREAMBLE

A good, if small crag situated above Margam Abbey. It is part quarried and part natural, but the rock is generally sound with some surprisingly strong and clean lines. There is an old BB at the top and a PR and some threads set well back for back ups.

ACCESS

From Junction 38 of the M4, follow signposts for Margam Abbey and park in the obvious spot at the bend beneath the forestry track.

Follow the the path leading directly up the hill to a left turn along a level track. After approximately 200m, when the area looks most like Fontainbleau in miniature, march uphill. The crag proper lies to the right of an obvious ivy covered buttress.

Access is a sensitive, so a low profile is recommended. Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

  1. Silf - HVS, 5a
    Takes the obvious rightward-curving crack on the left wall of the crag. From the half-height ledge follow a crack just left of the arete. 11m

  2. Left Edge - E1, 5b
    Follow the square-cut arete on the left of the main face on its right-hand side for 8m then step left into Silf to finish. 11m

  3. Quercus - HS, 4a
    Climb the crack containing an oak sapling and follow the groove behind to finish, PB. 14m

  4. Antonia’s Route - VS, 4c
    Climb up the crack right of Quercus to join Owl Groove at the top overlap. 14m

  5. Owl Groove - VS, 4c *
    Follow the impressive central groove, left of the leaning wall. 14m

  6. Derbyshire Hiraeth - E2, 5b
    Right of Owl Groove is a jutting block at 2m. Use this to gain al v-groove, then a leftward-trending crack. 14m

  7. The Orangery - E1, 5b
    The straight crack to the right of Derbyshire Hiraeth. 14m

  8. Gorsedd Groove - S
    The right-facing corner, capped by a small roof which is negotiated on the right. 14m

  9. Gibbon - VS, 4b
    Start 3m right of Gorsedd Groove and climb directly up via various cracks. 14m

  10. Ivy Tilsley - HVS, 5a
    The arete right of The Gibbon. 14m

  11. Brian Tilsley - VS, 4c
    The cracks in the wall to the right of the arete. 12m

MAP

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First Ascents

  1. P.Boyd, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  2. A.Freem, P.Boyd 00.00.1986
  3. A.Freem, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  4. A.Freem, A.Freem 00.00.1986
  5. A.Freem, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  6. A.Freem 00.00.1982
  7. A.Freem, N.Gould 00.00.1986
  8. A.Freem, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  9. P.Boyd, D.Owens 00.00.1986
  10. N.O’Neill & The Old Harrovians 00.03.1993
  11. N.O’Neill & The Old Harrovians 00.03.1993