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Golden Wall
From SWMC Wiki
51.562057, -4.080948
SS 55852 86850
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
Variable but as the routes start from a high ledge 1.5 hrs round High Water might work.
BOLTING POLICY
Use lots, but stainless.
DESCENTS
Scramble down to the ledge easiy after first checking the state of the tide!
CLIMBING BAN
None!
ROUTES
Routes described from left to right.
Golden Wall and Zawn
Golden Zawn
Easily located by walking inland from Golden Wall
- 'The Gold Rush - Fr.7a
A rising traverse starting L of The Midas Touch finishing on the far left (above Danny's project through big roof). Reachy. There is also a direct finish through the roof but is currently a PROJECT. - The Midas Touch - Fr.6c+
Turn the roof on the right.14m. - A Starke Reminder - Fr.6a+
Take centre of wall right of roofs.14m. - Aur Of Glory - Fr.6a
Left of two lines sharing a belay. - Aur Of Need - Fr.5+
Right hand line.14m - Golden Boy - Fr.5
First of two short lines to shared belay on the terrace. - Golden Balls - Fr.5
The other line.
Golden Wall
Located on the west of the quarried promontory,Boscoe's Wall is on the east side. Scramble down easily from the quarries.
- Bye Bye Edi - Fr.6b+
Powerful laybacking up the right facing corner. 10m. - All That Glitters Is Not Gold - Fr.7b+
Short vague groove, very cruxy. 10m. - Shining Dawn - Fr.7c
Central route, start up diagonal flake followed by hard boulder problem moves to the top. 10m. - Golden Wonder - Fr.7b
Link up moving right at 2nd bolt of Shining. 10m. - Golden Shower - Fr.7?
Open Project, needs rebolting. - Gold Digger - Fr.6b+
At the seaward edge of the ledge. The steep line of weakness leads to a balancy top. 10m. - Gilded Cage - Fr.5+
The steep groove at the right edge of the platform gained by climbing the pillar. - Golden Oldy - HS,4b
start at the lowest level of the sloping platform.
First Ascents
- The Gold Rush - John Bullock & Danny McCarroll 01.09.2012
- Golden Boy - R. Thomas Jan 2016
- Golden Something? - R. Thomas Jan 2016
- Golden Oldy - R. Thomas Jan 2016 solo