Ferndale

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

File:Ferndale2.jpg

Ferndale

BOLTING POLICY

Quarried sandstone.

PREAMBLE

The crag faces south-east and most of the walls recieve sunshine until midday.

There has been a recent re-equipping of the routes.

ACCESS

Enter Ferndale on the B4277 Porth road and follow it to a very obvious junction in the middle of town. Turn left here and drive up past the Working Men’s Club to the end of the houses on the left. Park here and follow a zig-zag track up the hill to a gate in the fence on the left. Go through this then follow the path leading steeply up the hill to the top, where there is a short scrappy quarry over to the right. Skirt round to the left to come to the main quarry in 150m. If on foot buses run up from Porth and the railway terminus at Ystrad Rhondda. From Ferndale follow the description above.

THE ROUTES

Described Right to Left. On the right of the quarry is a clean wall with a clean crack.

1. Gregoires Island Lodge - E2, 5b *
   The wall right of the crack, 2PRs and BR. 15m
   
   
2. Sea Shells On The Seychelles - E1, 5b *
   The crack. 15m
   
   
3. La Digue - Fr. 6c *
   The wall left of the crack is climbed by a couple of steep rockovers. 15m
   
   
4. One Size Fits All - E3, 6b
   Just left is a ledge, above half-height. The route gains this via some disgracefully chipped holds just right of the corner, BR. The prize contender for the most pointless route on sandstone. 8m
   
   The next three sports routes share a lower off.
   
   
5. Nine Green Bottles - Fr. 6c
   Walk in from the right. Climb the wall with increasing difficulty until jugs lead out left. 18m
   
   
6. By Appointment Only - Fr. 6c+ *
   Start below a small roof at 8m. Climb the groove to the roof, pull straight over it and up the wall to finish. 18m
   
   
7. Physical Presents - Fr. 7b *
   Start as for By Appointment Only, but at the huge staple, move out left to another line of bolts. Make a very trying sequence up, to better holds, stepping right to the adjacent BB. 18m
   
   
8. Rhondda Born, Rhondda Bred - E2, 5c *
   The protection before the BR looks good, but is in a loose block. Start to the right of a large Oak on a grassy terrace. Climb to the BR and pass it (quite hard). Finish up the slab and arete. 18m
   
   
9. Blondes Have More Fun - VS, 4b
   On the back wall of the quarry is another pillar. Follow a vague line up this on grass and loose rock. Belay on fenceposts. 18m
   
   
10. The Loony Left - E3,6a *
    On the left wall of the pillar is a slim groove. Climb the slab and groove to a BR, then make a hilarious couple of moves left to good holds and a small tree. Abseil with trepidation, or use a back up rope. 12m
    
    Left again is another grassy terrace at 6m. The next two routes start from this and are easily accessed by a grassy scramble.
    
    
11. Silent Movies - HVS, 5a *
    The thin finger crack in the centre of the slab. Abseil. 11m
    
    
12. Rhondda Ranger - Fr. 7a
    The slab left of the crack. BB. 10m
    
    
13. Race You Up The Wallbars - Fr. 7a+ *
    A thin series of cranks and smears up the slab to the left. Climb up the slab slightly left of the first BR to a very hard move up for the next one. 10m
    
    
14. Bucket of KFC and Two One Armers - Fr. 6b
    Right hand of two sports routes on the wall left of the terrace. Tnere is a very rattly hold at half height, will you pull on it? First bolt is currently missing. 12 m.
    
    
15. Culture Vulture - Fr. 6b
    A rounded arete leads to a high first bolt, slightly harder if started direct. One tricky move rightwards at half height. One lower off ring is missing. 12m
    
    
16. Just Good Friends - E2, 5c
    A short route up the thin crack starting halfway up the descent gully, BR. The belay stake is hidden in the grass. 8m
    
    
17. The Rhondda Roraima - E2, 5b
    Climb the front of the pillar bounding the crag on its left hand side to a PR. At the PR swing round onto the right arete to finish. Looks really good! 18m
    
    

File:Ferndale1.jpg

Quarry Panorama

First Ascents

1. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 15.01.1989
2. M.Crocker R.Thomas 15.01.1989
3. M.Crocker R.Thomas 15.01.1989
4. T.Foster 18.04.1989
5. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 08.04.1989
6. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 01.04.1989
7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 08.04.1989
8. P.Lewis, A.Sharp, P.Harding 15.04.1989
9. G.Lewis, F.Barrett, G.Barker 00.00.1989
10. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, P.Harding 15.04.1989
11. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 01.04.1989
12. M Richards 26.05.2010
13. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 08.04.1989
14. A Sharp 00.00.2010
15. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 15.04.1989
16. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 18.04.1989
17. W.Gladwin, S.Robinson 00.00.1996