Edwardsville (X1)

1. Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arete.

2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

Poor route moving left to rib from start.

3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arete with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.

4. Orangutarium - Fr.6b *

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.

5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arete to reach a tree with a blue sling.

6. Remediation Required - Fr.6b

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.

7. Fisty Nuts (7b+) *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.

8. Project

9. Fistula (6c+) ** superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

10. Rabbit Proof Fence (6a+) line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.

11. Uluru (6a+) pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.

12. Cox 2 Inhibitor (6b+) * Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.

Proton Pump (6a) Shallow groove with steep bulge

13. Voltarol Vigour (6a) line of staples to right to higher lower-off.

14. Sucking Dick's Lofenac (5+) the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.

15. Co-Codamol Crunch (5+) right side of slab to same lower-off.

16. Tramadol Trip (6a) * pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

17. Paracetamol Punch (6b) Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.

18. Ed Less (6a) Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

19. Guillotine (5+) corner above earth bank.

20. Final Cut (6b) R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arete.

Primal Cut (6b) short wall to 'stand up' finale.

Unnamed (6b) difficult start to ledge then easy.

21. The Puddling Fr.6a *

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arete and crack above. Unfortunately the lower off is well below crag standard.

22. Ed More Fr.5

Rounded slab work, worthwhile. Unfortunately shares a lower off with The Puddling.

23. Aqua Mule Show Fr. 5

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.

24. Known only Unto God Fr.6a+

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay.

25. Oolacunta Fr.6a

High blunt arete.

26. Uber Gruppen Fuhrer Fr.4

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees on Drift Mine Wall:

1. Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.

2. Get Nutted E2 5c

Twin diagonal cracks.

2. Homme de L'elephant

1. Polari Cartso - Fr.5+

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.

2. Rhondda Tan - Fr.5

Slab with horizontal breaks

3. Steroid Vest - Fr.6a

More Slab Climbing

4. Back to Black - Fr.5+

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.

5. Johnny Bionc - 6a

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab

6. Slabadabadoo - Fr.5

Slab to oversized lower-off chain

7. Fisting the night away - Fr.5+

Entertaining. The twisting crack

1. Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+

Left hand line with a peg low down. Gets better towards the top.

2. Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.

3. Balls of Domoclese - Fr.6b *

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

R. Thomas 2008

Edwardsville - Upper

1. A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5

To same LO as Boy George V.

2. Boy George V - Fr.6a

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge.

3. Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+

A poor route but much cleaner than previously.

4. We Like Hot Beaver - (6a)

Another adventure through questionable rock - But improved since previously

R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009

5. Hot Little Minx - (6a)

to different LO

G. Gibson, R. Thomas 01 May 2009

6. The Pleasant Mount - (6c)

R. Thomas, G. Gibson 01 May 2009

7. Mounting at the Edge - (6b)

G. Gibson, R. Thomas 02 May 2009

8. Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - (6b)

Up Arete to hard-to-clip belay

R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009

9. Poke Her Face - (5+)

Surprisingly delicate ascent of arete.

D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009

Right Hand Area

1. Over the Top - Fr.6a

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.

2. Bull Camp - Fr.6a

To lower-off on right of roof.

R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009

3. I love valleys girls Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m

S. Delany 2009

4. ...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m

5. Henry Allingham - Fr.5c

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.

6. Harry Patch - Fr.6a+

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m

7. Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+

Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection i.e. nuts/cams as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m

8 Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. 10m

There is some loose rock before the next two routes:

9. Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+

The slabby face to the left of the final arete in the right of the quarry.

10. Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a

Right of the final arete in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.11.2008

2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.00.2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

6. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

7. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

Drift Mine Area

1. D. Emanuel 00.00.2009

2. R. Thomas 00.00. 2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 00.00.2008

Undercut Slabs Area

1. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2009

3. R. Thomas 00.00.2008

Crud Area

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

2. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

Right Hand Area

1. D. Emanuel? R. Thomas? G. Gibson? May 2009

2. Steven Delaney & Chloe Whittall Sept 2009

3. R. Thomas, G. Gibson, D. Emanuel June 2009

4. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

5. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

6. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 11.03.2009

7. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 11.03.2009

8. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 01.04.2009

9. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009

10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas,