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Dinas - Cave Area
1. Academy Awards - Fr.6c **
Starting from the path, below the left-hand end of the terrace, move easily up to the obvious roof at 6m. Move through this via a painful slot and continue up the easy wall to a prominent long v-groove. Negotiation of this often proves difficult. Pull out of the slot to good holds on the upper slab and finish direct to a BB. 29m
2. Dream Academy - Fr.6b+ *
From the BB on the terrace, trend up and right up a ramp gaining the roof at a groove. Pull into this. Finish direct. 18m
3. El Camino Del Roy - Fr.6c+ **
To the right is a prominent sharp-cut square groove at 11m. Gain this directly and climb it with difficulty to make an awkward move onto the upper slab. Finish directly over the upper slab. 18m
4. Danny La Rue - Fr.7b *
Climb 'El Camino' to the ledge at 6m. Move rightwards and climb steeply through the twin roofs which leads to a good rest position on the hanging slab. Finish as for 'El Camino'. 18m
5. Incidentally X - Fr.7b+ *
A bouldery little number to the right of Danny La Rue, climbed by means of an improbable heel-hook and a pinch. 18m
6. Tortilla Flats - Fr.7b *
A horribly dirty start up the arete to the right, leads to the base of a slanting groove. This is full of cheese, but the hidden monos in the back of the groove are good - if you can guess where they are! The crux is at the top of the groove - a jump for a large pocket. Finish easily. 18m
7. Pour Marcel - Fr.7b *
Climb up the right-hand side of the cave, then make difficult moves up on small pockets. From these reach a sloper either statically or ‘by the best jump you’ll get all year’. Finish direct with some interest. 17m
The next two routes supersede Let’s Tango In Paris E3,6b (G.Gibson 1991), that came in from Brazilian Blend.
8. Brazilian Blend - Fr.6c+ **
Start up the corner to the right and pull round the roof to the right. Pull blindly up left and finish up the slab above. 21m
9. Sverige - Fr.7a
Start up the sloping corner right of Brazilian Blend then pull left to the centre of the wall at 9m. Surmount the overlap and make some tricky moves up to the final roof. Only for those who have ticked the rest of the wall. 20m
10. Ma’s Strict - Fr.7a+ *
As for Sverige, but pull over rightwards at a tree stump. Climb the extremely sequency wall above on small pockets to a baffling move through a roof. 17m
11. Breakout - Fr.6c **
Nothing too difficult. Basically follow the natural line up from where Sverige and Ma’s Strict go left. 15m
12. Vitamin Z - E4,6b
Start at a corner to the right of the caves, climb the corner, step right and make a hard pull over the bulge, poor PR. Pull past this with difficulty and continue to an abseil tree. 21m
13. Under The Boardwalk - E3,6a
Start as for Vitamin Z. Climb the corner to some large blocks on the right. Move up left over the bulge to the horizontal break. Climb left to an obvious groove, and follow this to a tree belay. Abseil off. 27m
First Ascents
1. R.Thomas 00.00.1995
2. T.Penning, J.Harwood 14.05.1985
3. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 14.05.1994
4. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 08.04.1995
5. G.Gibson 23.03.1985, G.Gibson - ALCH 00.00.1995
6. G.Gibson 09.04.1995
7. G.Gibson 14.05.1994
8. G.Gibson 19.05.1985
9. G.Gibson, T.Penning, M.Ward 19.05.1985
10. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 25.03.1995
11. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 01.09.1983
12. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
13. L.Francombe, A. Reed 00.00.1981
