Darren Fawr

Darren Fawr

Contents
Inland Limestone

GR022098 to 023096

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

PREAMBLE

A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Extreme care should be taken when removing loose rock, due to the road below.

ACCESS

Follow the A470 past the A470/A465 interchange for about 1½ miles. The crag is the clearly visible escarpment up on the right. Park appropriately and scramble up to the base of the crag.

DESCENTS

It is possible to walk off well to the right of the crag.

THE ROUTES

1. Wuthering Heights 23m S
   At the left end of the cliff is a long wall. Follow the central flake crack. Avoid an overlap at 14m by a short traverse left to a grassy ledge, then follow a short rake easily up right to the top. Good thread belays some distance back.
   
   
2. Avalanche 24m E3,5c *
   In the centre of the crag is a TR at 4m. Pass this and a PR. Continue, passing the left side of an overhang, PR. Continue past another PR to the top and belay well back.
   
   
3. Landslide 24m E4,6a *
   Start 6m right of Avalanche below a PR at 3m. Pass this and a TR by a shallow cave. Move up right past a TR over an overlap, TR to a small ledge. Continue up the wall, PR and finish leftwards. Belay well back.
   
   
4. Darenot 20m VD
   The right-hand of two cracks left of the gully at the right end of the crag. Start 3m right of a ledge, tree belay. Step off a pedestal and climb the crack to a ledge. A short wall and scrambling leads to the top. Block belay far back.
   
   The next three routes are on the tower on the right of the gully. There is a thread belay about 6m back
   
   
5. Rock And Roll 18m VD
   A short wall leads leftward to a shallow groove just left of the front of the tower. Climb the groove to gain Thunderguts. Finish up the wall above.
   
   
6. Thunderguts 20m VS
   A fine climb. The front of the tower is split by a crack. Climb the crack to a grassy stance, PB. Take the wall directly above the belay, keeping left of some loose blocks.
   
   
   

   Joes triforce and Picky's Sicky Topo
7. Scalar 23m VS
   A steep and exposed climb on the face 3m right of Thunderguts. Start just left of two trees, at a recess. Climb straight up for 10m and move left to a sapling below a steep groove. Climb the groove and pull over some doubtful looking blocks onto a ledge. Finish directly up the headwall.
   
   
8. Joe's Triforce Severe 10m
   The central face at the very right hand end of the crag, about ten metres left of the last gully before the outcrop becomes too short to climb on. Climb the indistinct groove for 5 metres before stepping right by a tiny sapling. Continue upwards trending left on good jugs to finish.
   
   
9. Picky's Sicky S (Severe)4a 10m (Black Spot)
   The 'S' is for stupid. The tottering arete immediatley right of the last gully. Loose.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. G.Stainforth, M.Danford 04.05.1970
   
2. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988
   
3. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988
   
4. G.Stainforth, C. Heald 14.03.1970
   
5. Unknown Pre-1973
   
6. M.Danford, G.Stainforth (alt) 04.05.1970
   
7. J.Stainforth, G.Stainforth 22.06.1971
   
8. J. Maddison & A. Pickavance (CUMC) 01/02/08
   
9. A. Pickavance & J. Maddison (CUMC) 01/02/08