Dan Dicks

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone A PEREGRINE HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED VISITING THIS CRAG. BANNED UNTIL AUGUST. News Via BMC & CCW.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

Grid Ref GR ST 022933 (Landranger #170)

Postcode district: CF39 0

Lat: 51:37:45N (51.62915)

Lon: 3:24:53W (-3.41478)

PREAMBLE

A big quarry above the village of Ynyshir on the west side of the valley. The crag offers a mixture of grooves, aretes and walls. Like all new sandstone crags there is some superficial loose rock which will reduce with traffic. The crag is a morning sun trap and apart from the three routes on the far right-hand side which seep after prolonged rain, the rest tends to stay dry.

Peregrines use the crag as an eating and roosting spot. The area of rock between Dan'ds-Inferno and Sweet Whistleing Geronimo is voluntarily banned from any development.

ACCESS

Follow the A4233 for a mile out of Porth passing the Station pub on the right. Turn sharp left 100 metres past the pub and then a sharp right into Graig Rd.. Park considerately at the gap half way along the road.

Walk through the gap between the houses, bear left then back right to reach the crag. Approx 5 mins.

Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

1. Steely Dan - Fr. 7b *
   First line of bolts on the left hand-side of the crag.Climb the wall and slab with a crimpy middle section.
   
   
2. Rhod Above the Bridge - Fr. 6b **
   The big groove right of SD. Climb the groove and finish out left,stepping right at the top to clip the belay.
   
   
3. Road Whore - Fr. 7a *
   Climb the groove of RATB and finish direct.
   
   
4. Banjo Versus the Pigeon - Fr. 6b
   Climb the groove of RATB and finish out right.
   
   
5. Catch the Pigeon - Fr. 6a+
   The short arete right of RATB. Tricky start.
   
   
6. Tricky Dickie Takes a Sickie - Fr. 7b+
   Wall right of Catch the Pigeon. Climb to first bolt of Catch the Pigeon and then step right. Wander up the blank wall as the holds dictate. Keep your blinkers on and avoid moving into Catch the Pigeon before the crux moves back up and right to the belay. 3rd bolt is currently quite far right of line of holds, can be clipped easily with a draw in place before moving left and up and then back right to sloping break below 4th.
   
   
7. The Corner - HVS, 5a
   The corner right of CTP.
   
   
8. Dan'ds-Inferno - Fr. 6b **
   The arete right of The Corner.
   
   
9. Sweet Whistling Geronimo - Fr. 7a **
   Start at the slim corner in the orange wall. Best route on the crag.
   
   
10. Dixienormous - Fr. 7a+ *
    Wall and arete right of SWG. Moving right in the groove reduces the grade to Fr.7a.
    
    
11. Dan Dix - Fr. 6a *
    A good warm up on the slabby wall right of Dixienormous.
    
    
12. Whistle Dixie - Fr. 7a+ *
    Climbs the left wall of the corner in the right hand bay.
    
    
13. Speechless - Fr. 6c *
    Thin crack on the wall right of WD.
    
    
14. Pre Nups - Fr. 6b+ **
    The entertaining right arete of Speechless.
    
    

First Ascents

1. M.Richards, A.Sharp 01/09/2009
2. D.Morris, A.Sharp 01/09/2009
3. A.Sharp 01/09/2009
4. D.Morris 01/09/2009
5. D.Morris, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 01/09/2009
6. M.Richards, A.Sharp 01/10/2009
7. J.Harwood A.Sharp 01/04/1991
8. A.Sharp& P.Lewis 01/09/2009
9. A.Sharp & D.Morris 01/07/2009
10. M.Richards, A.Sharp 01/09/2009
11. A.Sharp & P.Lewis 01/04/1991
12. A.Sharp 01/09/2009
13. A.Sharp & D.Morris 01/08/2009
14. M.Richards, A.Sharp 08/08/2009