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Cwmyoy (aka The Darren)
OS 161 - GR 296245
Contents
PREAMBLE
Best Crag in S.Wales with about 20 routes. This extensive cliff has a steady seepage of water over most of its length, which, when frozen provides some of the best sustained water ice climbing in South Wales. The cliff can be found some four miles north of Llanvihangel Crucorney on the east bank of the Vale of Ewyas. The cliff is a site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) because of rare plants and wildlife. The land owner has granted permission to climber between 1st December and 28th February, providing the cliff is in good winter climbing condition. Climbing is not permitted at any other time. This arrangement is for a trial period only during the 1996/7 season. It is essential to comply with this restriction in order to secure future access.
ACCESS
To reach the cliff follow the B4423 north from Llanfihengel Crucorney following signs for Llanthony Priory, or south from Hay on Wye over the Gospel Pass. Limited parking is available on the B4423 near the entrance track leading to the Daren Farm ( G R 289243). From here follow the track for 500m until behind the Daren Farm, head north for 200m to reach a fence, follow this east over difficult boulder strewn ground to reach the base of the cliff. King Koflack and the Coconuts follows the first prominent ice filled groove system from the left hand edge of the cliff.
DESCENTS
You can either lower off or walk off.
THE ROUTES
Are these described as approached, i.e. from left or right:
1. KING KOFLACK AND THE COCONUTS 40 m grade 4 **
Pitch 1 P.Thomas; M.Learoyd 12/01/1985
Pitch 2 H.Griffiths; G.Lewis 09/02/1986
2. LEWIE LEWIE 40 m grade 4 **
G.Lewis; J. Mothersele 11/02/1986
3. KOFLACK THE CAT 40 m grade 4 **
H.Griffiths; G.Lewis 12/01/1985
4. SON OF KOFLACK 55 m grade 3
P.Thomas; M.Learoyd 12/01/1985
5. JAWS AND THE TERRADACTYLS 55 m grade 3/4
G.Lewis; A.Davis 01/1985
6. DANCING IN THE RAIN 60 m grade 4 **
H Griffiths; P.Thomas 02/1997
7. HOLLOW HEAD BE THY NAME 60 m grade 4 **
H Griffiths; G Lewis 20/01/1985
8. GARFIELDS GROOVE 63 m grade 4 *
G Lewis; G Barker; G Morgan 15/02/1986
9. THE GREAT WHITE 65 m grade 4 ***
G Lewis; P Littlejohn 27/02/1986
The base of the cliff now rises where a large mound abuts the cliff. The next six routes all start from the top of this by climbing short steep icicles to gain access to a recessed wall. The left hand corner of the wall is taken by Kangaroo Corner.
10. SEBASTIAN DANGERFIELD 60 m grade 4 *
G Morgan; G Lewis 15/02/1986
11. FELINE IN THE TREELINE 60 m grade 4 *
G Lewis; J Mothersele 11/02/1986
12. THE PROMISED LAND 60 m grade 4 *
H Griffiths; M Learoyd 15/02/1986
13. KANGAROO CORNER 60 m grade 3
J Mothersele; G Lewis 11/02/1986
14. TOOLS YOU CAN TRUST 60 m grade 3 **
H Griffiths; M Learoyd; D Hillman 15/02/1986
15. FATAL ATTRACTION 55 m grade 3
H Griffiths; D Hillman; M Learoyd 15/02/1986
The following routes ascend the large impressive icefall on the right hand side of the cliff.
16. DUPUYTRENS CONTRACTURE 75 m grade 4 **
H Griffiths; G Lewis 20/01/1985
17. THE ICE QUEEN 80 m grade 4 **
R Renstow; J Mothersele 20/01/1985
