The SWMC Wiki is currently under review.
Cwm Dimbath
GR 947902
Contents
PREAMBLE
The crag consists of a natural rift that has been quarried in some parts to form two distinct areas. The lower rift is more extensive in size and height and has some routes on natural sandstone. This is a very good crag, unfortunately plagued by lichen. At the time of writing all the routes will require some cleaning.
A little more traffic should keep them in a reasonable state. Some routes remain dry in the rain, even after a prolonged spell, but seepage can be a problem, particularly during the winter. Midges are a real pain in summer after 7 pm. Take midge cream, a heavy smoker, or an alarm clock that only has 6 hours on it to confuse the little sods.
ACCESS
Follow the A4061 from the M4 at Sarn through Bryncethin to Blackmill. Turn right along the A4093 towards Gilfach Goch and follow this road for 1/2 mile until Glynllan estate is reached. Turn left into Dimbath Avenue and follow it through an estate, continuing down a country lane until a ford is reached. Park here. This point can also be reached by travelling westwards along the A4093 from Tonyrefail and turning right opposite the church in Glynogwr. Having parked at the ford, walk up the river following the path on the true right bank for ¾ mile, until a gravel forest track doubles back rightwards and up the hill. Follow this until the track straightens after a left-hand bend, where there is currently a tree covered in white paint. Follow a path up into the forest to arrive at the lower rift.
THE ROUTES
From right to left as one approaches them:
Lower Rift
- Across The River - VS, 4c
Immediately upon turning right to enter the main rift is a prominent short arete on the right side. 8m. - Into The Trees - VS, 4b
6m to the left is another obvious cleaned arete of natural sandstone. 8m. - Groucher - VS, 4c
The rounded arete to the left. 8m. - Midget Gem (Whinger) HVS 5a *
6m to the left is a scoop running from a ledge to a prominent tree. 8m. - Moaner - VS, 4c
Left again is a steep wall with a PR at 5m and an arete to its right. Start on the ledge to the right of the arete and layback the sharp arete facing left, passing a useful Friend slot en route. 8m. - Teaching Granny - E1, 5c *
Climb the steep wall past the PR, trending right to finish.9m. - Huff And Puff - HVS, 4c
The next arete to the left. 9m. - Sucking Eggs - E3, 6a ***
Tackle the strikingly obvious leaning sharp arete to the left, PR. Perhaps the best route on natural sandstone - At Your Convenience Fr. 6b+ *
Climb the overhanging wall to the left(4PRs) to the BB of Sucking Eggs. 12m. - Phil’s Ammonia - E1, 5b
Over to the left is a blunt arete forming the left-hand side of a gully. Start at the base of the mossy slab and wander up this to gain the arete. Climb the arete, 2PRs, to a large ledge and either top out or lower off a pre-placed rope. 18m. - Sal’s Ammoniac - E2 ,5c
To the left are two vague towers. This route climbs the front face of the left hand tower, with a tricky start, PR and the spectacular overhang above, PR, to a BB. 15m. - Teddy Bear’s Picnic - Fr 5+
Climb the large left wall of the corner directly up its centre passing recently installed bolts. 15m. - closed project
Awaiting midge free times and a belayer. - closed project
similar - Coming On Strong - E5, 6b ***
Brilliant albeit somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour. Climb the overhanging crack past a wide niche, PR and a situ wire to the overhang. Thug through the roof and up the overhanging crack (Friends ½ and 1½), BB. 21m.
- Where The Power Lies - E6, 6b ***
Awesome, spacious and decidedly uphill. Climb the blatantly obvious crack starting from a ledge at 2m, to a baffling move through the roof. Shakeout, crank up for a good jug and finish by jug hauling and a couple of jams to the chain. Several PRs. 21m. - Haven’t A Clue - Fr. 7a+ **
The obvious and deceptively powerful blunt arete down and to the left, passing 4BRs to a BB out to the left. A bit run out in the central section. 15m. - If You Go Down To The Woods Today - E4, 6a **
The thin cracks in the wall to the left contain a couple of long, powerful locks, with shaky gear in the central section. Friends are useful to protect the exit onto the upper slab, and a Friend ½ is very useful at 10m. BB.15m.
There is a project up the wall to the left (Recurring Pantomime). - Big Surprise - E1, 5b
The ‘offwidth’ to the left. 15m. - Day Of The Mastodon - HVS, 5a *
Climb the obvious flying arete at the extreme left hand end of this section of wall before the larger bank and the upper rift. 15m. - Burdizzo - E1, 5b
Opposite Phil’s Ammonia on the other side of the rift is a small scoop with some painted graffiti. Climb the scoop direct past a PR, to finish.
Upper Rift
Up and left from the Lower Rift is the Upper Rift.
- Trickie - VS, 4b
An obvious small buttress, overhanging on its left-hand side just left of a grass col provides this route, which climbs onto the obvious small ledge, moves up and then traverses right under the overhang to finish. 8m. - Trieksodeephobia - HVS, 5a
Climb onto the small ledge as for Trickie, but continue direct to finish (The finish can be reached directly, via a boulder problem through the overlaps). 9m. - No. 7 Climb - VS, 4c
Climb the filthy groove 9m to the left until a step left can be made onto a slabby wall. Probably best left to the lichen. 12m. - Consuming Passion - HVS, 5b
Around to the left is a fine wall with a prominent right to left ramp up its centre. Climb the prominent crack to the right of the ramp, finishing direct. 18m. - Unnamed - E6, 6b
The chipped wall to the left (the first ascensionist was not responsible for the chips), to gain the finish of Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge. 16m. - Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge - E3, 5c **
Climb the prominent diagonal ramp (good wires) until level with the underside of the capping roof. Step right, and follow a series of slots over the overhangs to finish direct up the centre of the buttress (crux). 18m. - Wild Pussy - E2, 5b
Start by some graffiti 5m left of the last routes. Climb the conspicuous left-trending blocky faultline into a niche and finish direct to the left of an obvious tree. A difficult start. 15m. - Grit Expectations - E4, 5c
Climb the recessed wall 8m left of Wild Pussy direct via a break, a blind flake (poor Rock 2) to a rounded break, poor Friend. Make crux moves upto the overlap and finish more easily. 14m. - The Creaming Codpiece - E2, 5c
The prominent slab to the left, with an undercut base, PRs. 12m. - Bitter End - E1, 5b *
Climb the wall to the left starting up an overhanging groove and finishing direct past a PR. 14m.
FIRST ASCENTS
LOWER RIFT
- R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas 00.00.1990
- E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas 00.00.1991
- R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990
- A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.05.1990
- A.Sharp, P.Lewis 21.04.1990
- A.Sharp, P.Lewis 29.04.1990
- P.Lewis, A.Sharp 21.04.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990
- R.Thomas Pre-1991
UPPER RIFT
- G.Lewis 00.00.1990
- G.Lewis, A.Burke 00.00.1990
- G.Lewis, A.Keward 00.00.1990
- H.Griffiths, L.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990
- J.Sykes Pre-1999
- A.Burke, E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
- H.Griffiths,E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990
- E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
- R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 04.10.1997
- R.Thomas Pre-1991
