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Crosskeys Quarry

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South East Wales Sandstone

Crosskeys quarry

GR223932

PREAMBLE

A small quarry in Pontywaun, with a couple of reasonable routes. Cleaning required.

ACCESS

From J28 of the M4, follow (Forest Drive signposts) the A467 to a roundabout where the A4048 carries on to Wattsville (Bumpsville) and the A467 swings right to Brynmawr. Follow the A467 to the next roundabout and take the exit right.

Take the third left (next after the Forest Drive entrance) into a housing estate (Silver Street) and follow this road up to the third left (At Silver Street Store) into North Road. Park where the houses change from terraced to semi detached and walk up the hill (between the houses) for 50 m to land directly in the quarry. Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

1. Pick Locks - Fr.6b

The first substantial buttress on the left side of the quarry. 14m

R.Thomas 17.10.1999


2. Skeleton Key - Fr.6a

Gain and climb the faint crack right of the black arete. 12m

R.Thomas, P.Hadley 00.07.1999


3. Locksmith - VS,4c

The crack to the right of Skeleton Key. 12m

N.O’Neill, R.Thomas 00.07.1999


Over to the right is another buttress, with an abandoned project up a blunt never-dry arete.


4. Five Lever - Fr.6b+

The wall to the right of the blunt arete, starting up a thin cracks. Some nuts are needed. 12m

R.Thomas 00.00.1999


5. Petersman - Fr.6c

The wall to the right of Locksmith gives sustained climbing on small holds. 12m

R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 00.07.1999


6. Wreckernoitre - VD

Start in the hollow left of the obvious crack at the back of the quarry. Gain and follow the ramp to finish up the slab at the end of it. 14m

C.Shorrock solo 09.05.1995


7. Wreckernoitre Direct - S

The direct start to Wreckernoitre with a tricky mantle to reach the gangway and slab. 9m

M.Hirst solo 09.05.1995


8. Radovan Karadijc - Fr.7a

The centre of the obvious thumb on the right-hand wall of the quarry. 8m

G.Ashmore 17.10.1999


The Ebbw Valley and the entrance to Cwmcarn Forest Drive a pleasant secluded tributary valley with good walking, mountain biking and camping facilities. Crosskeys Quarry and Cwmcarn Quarry are visible and within walking distance of the campsite.