Coming Soon

Bolting Policy

New bolted routes permitted. Retro-bolting permitted with first ascentonists permission. By the time we've bolting this quarry it will look like an indoor wall. Also has some trad routes.

Preamble

Coming Soon - A compact quarry of very clean sandstone with a very short walk-in from the road. The quarry has an open aspect and dries quickly. Routes are in the low to mid grades with 'friendly' bolting - Destined to become popular on account of its convenient approach and good rock.

Access

Located near Abertillery - Location will be revealed soon. From the layby walk back down the road for 100m and climb over the rusty gate to ascend the path directly into the quarry.

Descents

All bolted route have lower-offs or shared lower-offs. The proposed trad routes will also have bolted lower-offs.

The Routes

LEFTHAND AREA

The lefthand area generrally appears discontinuous although contains a few gems

Projects 1 and 2 - VS/5a?

Aaaarrrgh. Trad Climbing!!!! Two finger jam cracks leading to a lower-off. Roy can have these as I'm scared of leading trad!!!!

Project 3 - VS/5a?

Aaaaaarrrgh. More Trad Cracks.

ARETE AREA

As the path enters the quarry one is met by a prominent arete of clean rock.

Project 4 - R Thomas

The lefthand side of the face to the left of the arete

Project 5 - R Thomas

Immediately left of Arete

Project 6 - D Emanuel

The Arete - The best feature in the quarry - A direct ascent of the corner. Clean flawless rock.

Project 7 - D Emanuel

The centre of the slab to the righthand side of the arete.

Project 8 - R Thomas

A short route up the face to the right of the corner.

Project 9 - R Thomas

Another short face route

Project 10 - D Emanuel

The scramble up stepped rock in the far right side of the quarry. Possibly the easiest bolted route in the UK. Ideal for beginners.