Cefnpennar

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR034013

PREAMBLE

A good, if limited crag, which is quite sheltered despite its high position. It has breathtaking views of the once scenic cokeworks and Frank Whitehead’s old house. There is a very good left wall and some shorter more broken slabs along the long low right wall. The main wall seeps for quite some time after rain.

ACCESS

From the A4059 at Mountain Ash, take the minor road signposted to Cefnpennar at the roundabout. Follow this road (bearing up the hill at the hospital turn off), then turn left along an uneven track at the fork at the top of the hill. Continue to a lay-by by a TV aerial, parking here to avoid blocking the field entrance. Walk down to the end of the track, go through a gate, then climb over the fence to the left to arrive at the top of the quarry. If on foot, take the train to Mountain Ash, from where it is possible to catch a bus to Cefnpennar and then follow the directions above. Blaenllechau

THE ROUTES

Left Wall

The belay for all these routes is the telegraph pole behind the main wall.

1. Old Gringo 11m E1,5b
   The crack at the left-hand side of the wall. Take care with gear placements in the friable rock.
   
   
2. Pickpocket 12m E3,5c *
   The route of the crag. Start just right of Old Gringo and follow a line of holds up the steep wall, passing a couple of prominent pockets. 2PRs and good RPs.
   
   
3. Bring On The Spring 12m E5,6c Fr7b+
   The wall to the right has some hard moves low down (Friend 1) and then it gets really hard, 2BRs. The final jump out right has proved impossible for all but Crockola to date.
   
   
4. Root 66 11m E1,5b
   The obvious crack to the right PR, which is blocked by a tree at the top (possible abseil).
   
   
5. Wackaday 9m E3,6b
   The short wall to the right, passing 2PRs.
   
   

Right Wall

1. Walking On Coles 9m HS,4a
   Some 50m to the right of Wackaday is a set of broken steps leading up to the top of the crag. Just right of this is a prominent overlapping slab. Take the centre of the slab.
   
   
2. Masterfool 7m E2,6a Fr6b+
   Over to the right is a short steep arete, with 2BRs and no BB.
   
   
3. Tory Bloating Floater 7m VS,4b
   The corner between Masterfool and Valerie Singleton is loose and fit only for those who have ticked everything (except for Penrhiwceiber of course).
   
   
4. Valerie Singleton 8m E1,5c
   To the right is a narrow slab, set back from the previous face and blessed with 2PRs and a belay stake.
   
   

First Acsents

Left Wall

1. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989
2. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
3. M.Crocker 02.04.1994
4. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
5. M.Learoyd 00.00.1989

Right Wall

1. S.Coles 29.03.1992
2. M.Crocker 02.04.1994
3. D.Irving, M.Hirst 28.03.1997
4. R.Thomas Pre-1991