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Caswell Bay (Bouldering)
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide
PREAMBLE
I was slightly bored as
I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace
across the beach at Caswell bay
But had to smile when
he threw a hand full of sand
aimed at a passing dog, he missed,
hit a not-so-happy older couple
( tut tutt and stare!)
but then he gasped,
was practically paralysed
grasped at my hand and pointed at
a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock
A shirtless back framing muscularity.
And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye
and a grace I seldom see in men
shine through a movement into sky
I pulled away,
told him not to stare (Charlie)
and in my mind I rolled a joint
I wished I'd never seen this thing
The sky man, my son
and what I think he could become.
by chris wyatt 2008
The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!
ACCESS
Drive up through Mumbles High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.
THE BOULDERING
The crystal wall
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)
1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards 2. A line on the left 3. A lineup the middle (variatons) 4. Up through the cave 5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left |
The Wave
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle
1. Kids stuff to the left 2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards 3. A line just to the right 4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand 5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to 6. Enter the niche with some difficulty 7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right 8. A crackly pop line |
The Playground
| another good warm up area
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The Gully
| Interesting but can ming
2. The crozzly area to the right 3. It gets harder here |
The Bible
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.
|
The Towers
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!
1. A warm up slab 2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull 3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable 4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top 5. One move wonder on the small block |
The Tower Block
| Appalling landings but great climbing.
1. Up the arrete The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish |
The Square Block
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall
1. The scoop on the left wall 2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold) 3. Up the wall and through the bulge 4. The crack 5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top 6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top 7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top 8 Right arrete
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Chip off the block
|
1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required
|
100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right
Barnacle bill
|
1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side 2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts 3. A few hardish crimps 4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall |
Canine
|
1. Reasonable on the left 2. Sharp on the right 3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)
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Wall and arete
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This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell 1. The cracks in the middle of the wall 2. A line between the arrete and the crack 3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem
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HB Gully Right
|
Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding. 1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it 2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top 3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful highball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.
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Central Tor LHS
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The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle. 1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday 2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start 3. A highball, easier if you use the crack There are numerous easier lines to the right
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| The Arch
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Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas
2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)
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Right of the arch
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