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Burry Holms
GR397926 to 399925
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
2½ hours either side of low water. Note the tidal nature of the island.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
PREAMBLE
There are three areas of climbing on Burry Holms, which is itself a tidal island accessible until about half-tide. The climbing areas consist of the Southern Area, with pleasant easy routes on excellent rock, the overhanging Littlejohn Legacy Area, and Pincer Cove area on the far side of the island. The crags dry very quickly except for Pincer Cove, which is almost always sea damp.
ACCESS
As for Blue Pool Area to the beach, from where the island of Burry Holms is clearly visible, as is a tidal causeway leading out to it. The Southern Area of Burry Holms is reached by skirting round the island to the south (left). Pincer Cove is reached by following the path which leads up from the tidal causeway to the west side of the island. The Littlejohn Legacy Area is reached by starting up the same path, but contouring south (left) down the first gully.
DESCENTS
Descent is by walking off. For the Southern Area, walk leftwards (west) down a sloping platform. For the Littlejohn Legacy Area, walk rightwards (landwards) and skirt back out to sea down the gully. For the Pincers Cove Area, walk down the 'Northern Pincer' (right when looking out to sea from the top).
THE ROUTES
Southern Area
About 200m west of the start of the island is a gully. It contains a very prominent cave crack (Promontory Crack).
1.Left Wall 15m M
The buttress left of the obvious crack of Promontory Crack, taken by a vague central scoop.
D.Jones, R.Edwards Pre-1960
2. Promontory Crack 25m S **
Bridge into the crack from the seaward end. Climb the crack with a brief detour onto the left wall at half-height.
D.Jones, R.Edwards Pre-1960
3. Right Wall 20m VD
As for Promontory Crack, but 5m in, break out onto the right wall. Climb this by a series of scoops.
D.Jones, R.Edwards Pre-1960
The Littlejohn Legacy Area
These routes are below the prominent roof towards the seaward end of the gully, 100m on from the Southern Area.
1. The Littlejohn Legacy 28m HVS,5a
Climb the prominent groove below the left side of the prominent roof. Pass the roof on the left.
J.Mothersele, D.McCarroll 00.07.1997
2. Gower Reality 28m E5 6b 1pt **
Climb the wall to the right of the Littlejohn Legacy to gain thin cracks in the roof. Cross the roof with difficulty.
S.Doerr, J.Mothersele 1pt (rest) 00.08.1997
3. The Right Hand One 25m HS,4b *
Climb the centre of the wall to the right of Gower Reality
J.Mothersele, D.McCarroll 00.04.1997
4. The Sissy Traverse 45m HVS,5a
Start about 5m right of The Right Hand One. Traverse the crag at high tide level, to finish as for The Littlejohn Legacy.
J.Mothersele, S.Doerr 00.00.1997
Pincer Cove
The cove at the west end of the island contains some routes on the north (right when viewed from the top) pincer. These are centred around a prominent open corner. To gain the routes walk down the top of the pincer to a platform and traverse in to gain the wall (on the Pincer Cove side).
1. Great Corner 15m D
Traverse into the prominent open corner and climb it, turning the overlap on its left.
D.Jones, R.Edwards Pre-1960
2. West Wall 15m HS,4a
As for Great Corner, but traverse out on the right wall of the corner to finish up cracks. Alternatively, finish up a groove 1m further on.
D.Jones, R.Edwards Pre-1960
