Bowen's Parlour

Bowens Parlour

GR SS 551 872

TIDAL STATUS

The upper crag is non-tidal. The lower crags 2 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

New sports routes allowed

Nik Goile on the first ascent of Curse of the Black Parlour and Chris Wyatt romping up the Sallies of Youth.

PREAMBLE

An excellent new sports venue with a mix of grades. The whole place is a sheltered suntrap in winter, with very little seepage, and in summer the sun moves across crags, so you can climb in sun or shade. Approach: From the NT car park at Southgate walk east along the road as far as Bosco’s Lane, then out to the headland with the wooden bench. Bear left, facing out to sea, and follow a vague track under a small outcrop then back round to the right past a gaping hole. The crag lies in the small embayment below you, and can be accessed down the steep slope to the west, though a safer approach is to walk a little further and down the next grassy slope, then work back to the crag.

DESCENTS

Sport climbing venue equipped with lower offs

Upper Crag

Bowens Parlour

1. Rudaceous Ramble - Fr.6a+
   The breccia is more solid than it looks and the corner much steeper than expected.
   
   
2. Breccial Motion - Fr.6b+
   Swings right to borrow the delightful last few moves of Parlour Games.
   
   
3. Parlour Games - Fr.7a+ / 7b **
   Direct line with a powerful crux.
   
   
4. Spider - Fr.6b+/6c*
   The arête gives fine climbing.
   
   
5. Parlour Francais - Fr.7c*
   Start up either of the previous routes and break through the overhang.
   
   
6. Fly - Fr.6a+ / 6b *
   Unusual climbing using flowstone features. Beware; if you step on the ‘roof’ it is very awkward to get back on the route!
   
   
7. When I'm 64 - Fr.7a+ **
   The steepening diagonal is climbed on very positive holds to a wild finale off the ‘house brick’ hold. The name alludes to the age of the first ascentionist.
   
   Still Nifty at Fifty - Fr.7a+
   Start inside the cave as for 'When I'm 64'. Climb directly up the leaning pillar until forced left on to very steep ground leading to rings at the apex of the roof. Perfect rock and each move harder than the last. To be continued.
   
   
8. Aspidistra - Fr.6b
   Over the obvious small roof using a high undercut. Some dodgy rock. Hard for the short.
   
   
9. Maud - Fr.6b
   Very steep climbing but the holds are good. Some dodgy rock.
   
   

Lower Crag

Bowens Parlour

1. All of a Quiver - Fr.6a
   The steep cracks from the sloping platform left of Bowen Arrow,to shared LO.
   
   
2. Bowen Arrow - Fr.6a*
   The corner and flake starting from the slippery slope.
   
   
3. Reaction Series - Fr.6b / 6b+ **
   Layback up the big corner and attack the overlaps.
   
   
4. Bowen to the Inevitable - Fr.6a+ **
   Great climbing up to and over the apex of the arch. Steeper than it looks.
   
   
5. Parlour Vous le Sport - Fr.6a+ *
   Straight up the steep ground right of the arch. Some perplexing moves before the final overlap.
   
   
6. Feud For Thought - Fr.6b / 6b+ **
   Sustained climbing through the overlaps.
   
   
7. Gentlemen Prefer Bolts - Fr.6c*
   Climbs the steep wall via the ‘boss’. The start is reachy but the difficulties continue above.
   
   
8. Gentlemans Relish - Fr. 6a+
   Easily up the chimney to a tricky exit.
   
   
9. Gentleman's Retreat - Fr. 6a+
   The right hand route in the zawn.
   
   
10. Curse of the Black Parlour - Fr.6b *
    A fun way to wait for the tide to recede from the lower zawn or for bored locals. A #4 wire is useful to protect the short run out in the middle of the route.
    P1: From edge of the sloping ledge climb the first three bolts of "Bowen Arrow" then traverse right along an obvious ledge. Continue delicately once the ledge disappears until you can move up to good jugs below the overlap at the last bolt of "Feud for Thought". Cross the overlap rightwards and amble up to the belay of "Gentlemen Prefer Bolts".
    P2: If the tide is still in and you can't get down then traverse back to the cave along the top of the crag clipping route anchors as necessary.

Morning Wall

Big Dan pulling through the roof of Reaction Series.

There are two lines on the East facing wall, starting from the slippery slope. From right to left these are:

1. Sallies of Youth - Fr.5
   Pleasant flakes.
   
   
2. Left: Wisdom of Age - Fr.5
   More pleasant flakes, shared L.O.
   
   Left of the sports routes are some more pleasant flakes:
   
   
3. Where's me boots - HS 4b
   Start up the corner to the left of Wisdon of age, step right and follow the groove to the top.
   
   
4. Best Be Quick - HS 4b
   Where the rock becomes steep again to the left, climb the short groove (TR) to a ledge, step up right to a good hold, then back left to finish.
   
   

First Ascents

Cave Area

1. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2009
2. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2009
3. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
4. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2009
5. Martin Richards 2010
6. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2009
7. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2010
8. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2009
9. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010

Lower Crag

1. R.Thomas 00.07.2010
2. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
3. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
4. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2010
5. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
6. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2010
7. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2010
8. Roy Thomas and Goi Asmore 2010
9. R. Thomas D. Emanuel K. Davies 10.10.2010
10. N.Goile, M.Barclay 05.09.2015

Morning wall

1. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
2. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2010
3. M. Woodfield and M. Griffiths 22.11.11
4. M. Woodfield and M. Griffiths 22.11.11