Blue Pool Area

Gower

GR404927 to 406929

TIDAL STATUS

Extremely Tidal. 1 hour either side of low water on Spring Tides. Danny's Buttress 2 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

A major new development of an area of 25m high cliffs on the north side of the ridge running from Llangennith to Burry Holms. The best time to visit is in high summer, when the crag is generally seepage free. Although the crag is extremely tidal, it is well worth a visit for its steep rock and uncompromising lines. There are also some easier routes on Danny's Buttress, which is worth a visit and is considerably less tidal.

ACCESS

The best approach is from Llangenith village. Follow the minor road signposted to Llangennith Burrows, which ends at a car park (GR415925). Follow the footpath leading from the playground into the dunes to eventually reach the beach. To the north (right) is a tidal causeway leading out to Burry Holms island. Cross the causeway to a small bay on the north side containing Danny's Buttress. To get to the main cliff of Living Wall, contour rightwards around the rocks for 150m, to reach the obvious bowl-shaped crag, which blocks further progress along the beach. Note that some of the conventional routes on Living Wall can be started from a non-tidal platform. This platform and the deep water solos, are gained from abseil points above the crag. The abseil points are reached by reversing the descent route described below.

DESCENTS

For Danny's Buttress, scramble down to the left back to the beach. For Living Wall, descent is by walking down the raised banking leading back down to the causeway. There are some stakes at the top. It is probably best to pre-place a lower-off rope, due to the sloping grassy banking at the top of the cliff.

THE ROUTES

Danny's Buttress

1. Al'Hambra 11m E2,5b

A deep water solo. The grade for a conventional ascent is not yet known. From the seaward (left) end of the face, traverse right and climb an obvious crack.

M.Crocker solo 17.06.2001

2. Left Route 9m E1,5b

The left-hand groove on the main face of the crag.

J.Mothersele, D.McCarroll 00.04.1997

3. Right Route 9m E2,6a *

The groove to the right of Left Route.

J.Mothersele, S.Doerr 00.08.1997

Living Wall

Note that there is another route in this area, but its location is unfathomable. It could be the offwidth about 100m east of Living Wall (Chimney Route E1,5c J.Mothersele, D.McCarroll 1997).

Living Wall has a gently sloping left-hand (north) flank. Descend this to gain the start of Astral Slide.

1. Astral Slide 28m E4,6a **

The grade is given for a solo ascent at high tide. In normal conditions it would be much bolder. From the sloping shelf at the left end of the wall, traverse right, then down the rectangular slab (Living Wall). Drop down under the bulge to gain a traverse line leading right to finish up the chimney of Refugee.

M.Crocker solo 07.05.2001

2. Living Wall 20m E5,5c

This route is characterised by a recessed slab positioned high on the left-hand side of the wall. Gain the slab, then move out right and finish up a short groove. Steep climbing, with spaced protection.

A.Berry, J.Bullock 06.07.1997

3. Refugee 25m E4,6a **

Right of Living Wall is an obvious chimney high up on the crag. Start down and left of the chimney. Climb the lower wall directly to gain an obvious handhold. Use this to pass an overlap, then up to the obvious finishing chimney.

A.Berry, S.Ohly 04.05.2001

The next routes start from a large ledge to the right of the angle of the crag. At low water, this can be reached by an easy scramble. When the tide is in, the ledge can be gained via an abseil point on the pillar above the crag.

4. Anybody Who's Anybody 21m E4,6a *

Graded for a deep water solo at high water. More serious for a conventional ascent. From the left of the belay ledge move up to pockets and follow these to the base of the chimney on Refugee. Traverse left, keeping low for 4m. Finish up the exciting flake-crack in the bulges above.

M.Crocker solo 07.05.2001

5. Astral Sidle 20m E2,5b *

A surprisingly amenable climb. Move up from the large belay ledge to gain a break. Follow the break leftward to a corner system. Follow the corner system to an overhang (junction with Refugee) and cross it on large rounded holds. Move left to gain a bridging position, then pull out right to finish.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.2001

6. Into The Blue 20m E5,6a *

A serious route. From the large belay ledge, follow the leftward-slanting crack up the right side of the recessed wall to an arched roof. Pass this to reach easier ground.

M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.05.2001

7. Buccaneer 18m HVS,4c

Follow the corner crack above the large belay ledge, taking care with a rocking block.

S.Ohly, A.Berry 25.05.2001

8. Privateer 18m E1,5b *

From a few metres up Buccaneer, make a rising traverse rightwards across the pillar of Open, to gain the finish of The Thing.

A.Berry, S.Ohly 25.05.2001

To the right of the large belay ledge is a prominent pillar, bounding the left-hand side of a large recess.

9. Open 18m E2,5a

Take a fairly direct line up the prominent pillar. The protection is spaced.

J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1996

Right of the pillar of Open is a large recess, the right-hand side of which is bounded by a prominent leftward-slanting groove, taken by The Thing.

10. Blue Pool Cool 27m E6,6a *

Strenuous, run-out and damp. Start right of the pillar of Open. Climb a pillar then trend right to a recess and gear. Traverse right into a verdant niche below a roof. Leave this to the right, gaining slopers and gear slots. Trend left up the wall to a pocket, pull up to a second pocket, then follow the left-trending crack left of the Thing. Finish direct.

M.Crocker 07.05.2001

11. The Thing 28m E5,6a **

Follows the obvious left-trending groove at the right side of the recess. Make unprotected, but reasonable moves up the lower wall to gain the strenuous groove. From the top of the groove walk right and up to stakes.

S.Doerr, J.Mothersele 21.07.1997

The next routes are deep water solos up the protruding wall to the right of The Thing. They are reached by abseil from the top and would be very serious if done ground up at low water. The 50m abseil starts from a small outcrop at the top of the grass slope. Aim for small ledges in a hollow left of the tongue at the right end of the wall. In the event of a fall, jump out as far as possible, since there is a toe of rock directly below No Ya Limits.

12. No Ya Limits 12m E6,6b ***

The overhanging groove right of The Thing. Traverse left for 3m from the end of the abseil to gain the groove. Move up to a projecting hold. Lurch up the wall past a jug on the arete at 8m. Pull through a white bulge to finish.

M.Crocker solo 17.06.2001

13. Jetski Gobsmacksy 12m E5,6b ***

From the end of the abseil, traverse left for 2m to gain the rib right of No Ya Limits. Follow the rib to a long stretch for a pocket, then extend left to a small white scoop. Finish more easily.

M.Crocker solo 17.06.2001

14. Fulmar Halo 12m E3,5b

From the end of the abseil ledge, go left to gain a slot up and left. Climb direct and exit up left up a pocketed ramp.

M.Crocker solo 17.06.2001