Blaenllechau

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR 004 969

PREAMBLE

Clearly visible from Ferndale town, it is best to fix it's location roughly as it cannot be located visually from the road above. Despite it's previous bad reviews further inspection has revealed that once re-geared the earlier routes are very good and the crop of new ones are on excellent rock and sunny for most of the day and evening. This crag probably has the biggest crop of 4+/5's of any sandstone crag,enough to occupy a sunny summer evening.Please follow accepted protocol and multiple top rope off your own quickdraws,teach inexperienced members of the party how to thread their own ropes(it's not rocket science but common sense),this saves wear on belays.Feel free to bolster belays you find troubling.

ACCESS

If approaching from the west Jct 34 M4 leads to the A4119, turn off this to Trebanog and drop down to Porth. From the east the A470 leads to Pontypridd then the A4058 to Porth. If approaching from the North gain the A470 from the Heads Of Valleys Merthyr connection.

From Porth in the Rhondda take the A4233 to Ferndale and follow the signs to Blaenllechau on the other side of the valley. Follow the hairpin road into the village and use the turning circle to negotiate the right very sharp bend into the minor mountain road to Penrhiwceiber/Llanwonno. Follow this road to the end of the highest terrace and park in the limited space by the NSL / 30mph sign painted in very large red letters on a very prominent portion of red tarmac at the end of the village. Walk 4 mins up the road and follow the rough path down and left at the crash barrier. It is also possible to park a small car here or one of the lower terraces if the previous spot is full.

THE ROUTES

Routes described from left to right.

File:Blaenllechau pillar.jpg

Blaunllechau Pillar

In the left bay of the quarry is a pillar.

Blaenllechau Pillar

1. Dirtbag arete - Fr. 6b **
   The sidewall and left arete, gained and followed direct. 18m
   
   
2. Electrolux - HVS, 4c
   The central groove and wall above. 18m
   
   
3. Dicky Dyson - Fr. 5+ *
   The right arete of the groove. 18m
   
   
4. Dust Devil - Fr. 5
   The chimney/groove and right edge of wall above. 18m
   
   
5. Suction Power - Fr. 4
   The grassy uncleaned staircase leading to the tree. 18m
   
   Further right is another less distinct pillar the easy slab and a short steep wall called FAIRY WALL.
   
   
6. Possessed By The Mind Of A Hoover - HS, 4a
   The centre of the indistinct pillar, battling through the heather to top out. 9m
   
   Down and right is the obvious slab and an easy way to the top.
   
   
7. Raspberry Ripple - Fr. 4+
   The left edge of slab. 12m
   
   
   File:Blaenllechau fairy wall.jpg

   Blaenllechau - Fairy Wall
8. Ripple slab - Fr. 3
   Obvious by name. 12m
   
   Next is the excellent short steep wall.
   
   
9. Fairy Godmother - Fr. 4+
   You will go to the ball Cinderella!. 12m
   
   
10. Fairy's Liquid - Fr. 4+
    The wall to a shared belay on ledge. 12m
    
    The next three route top out to a substantial common belay.
    
    
11. Fairy Ring - Fr. 6b+
    Take a direct line stepping onto the ledge of the previous route drops the grade. 12m
    
    
12. Away With The Mixer - Fr. 6b+
    The flake line in the centre. 12m
    
    
13. Away With The Fairies - Fr. 6c
    The thin crack with a harrowing final move. 12m
    
    
14. Fair Enough - Fr. 4+
    The layback crack. 12m
    
    
15. Half Pint - Full Pint - HS 4a
    Climb layback at the start of Fair Enough then go straight up onto the ledge and climb obvious large crack to the top of the cliff. Belay on the fence.
    
    15m to the right is the blocky arete of...
    
    
16. Hands That do Dishes - Fr. 4+
    Soft face? 13m
    
    

Plumbers Wall

File:Plumbers wall.jpg

Blaunllechau - Plumber's Wall

10m right again is another good steep wall.

1. Leaky Ball Cock - Fr. 5
   The left arete, continue with a traverse to the next route's belay gives The Plumbers Union - Fr. 5 12m
   
   
2. Cock and Ball Story - Fr. 6b+
   Centre of wall. 12m
   
   
3. Plumbing the depths - Fr. 7a
   Tricky stuff. 12m
   
   

First Ascents

Blaenllechau Pillar

1. R.Thomas Eugene Jones 00.06.2011
2. S.Coles solo 08.02.1992
3. R.Thomas R.Phillips 00.06.2011
4. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
5. G.Ashmore 00.06.2011

Fairy Wall

1. S.Coles solo 08.02.1992
2. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
3. Ed Rees R Thomas N O'neill 00.06.2011
4. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.05.2011
5. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.05.2011
6. R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
7. P.Lewis A.Sharpe
8. A.Sharpe P.Lewis
9. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
10. J. Gallacher, M. Moore, M. Dicks 05.01.2013
11. R.Thomas 00.06.2011

Plumber's Wall

1. R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.06.2011
2. G.Ashmore R.Thomas 00.06.2011
3. G.Ashmore R.Thomas 00.06.2011