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Rhossili Upper Crags

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Rhossili

Rhossili Sea Level

File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg
Gwyn Evans at Wedge Wall

Retribution Wall

File:Retribution wall2.jpg
Retribution Wall

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of Trial Wall but is to be referred to as Retribution Wall

  1. Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5
    The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m

  2. Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b
    Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m

  3. Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b
    The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(World Without End). 23 m

  4. Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a
    The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of Laughing Spam Fritter, joining it to finish.

  5. 24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a
    As for Somme Mothers but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m

  6. Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5
    Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m

First Ascents

  1. Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
  2. Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
  3. Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
  4. Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
  5. Steven Warrington 21/08/11
  6. Steven Warrington 21/08/11

Trial Wall

File:Trial wall.jpg
Trial Wall
Gareth Tucker on Crime and Punishment, Trial Wall. Photo by Steve Lucocq

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above Crime and Punishment et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

  1. The Adulteress 24m E2,5c **
    Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top.

  2. Blackman's Pinch 24m E4,6a **
    A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for The Adulteress.

  3. Skull Attack 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ ***
    A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of Blackman's Pinch and left of the Crime and Punishment groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay.

  4. Retrobution 24m Fr. 7b
    Plough on up the Crime and Punishment groove until holds run out, continue into Skull Attack to finish.

  5. Crime and Punishment 23m E5,6b ***
    Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top.

  6. Black Wall-Fr. 8a+ *
    The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of Crime and Punishment at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m.

  7. Inch Pinch -Fr. 7a
    A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m.

  8. The Hant - Fr. 7a
    Follow Inch Pinch to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m.

  9. Tribulations - Fr. 7a
    The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m.

  10. Shakeout 27m E3,6a **
    A girdle of Trial Wall from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join Crime and Punishment. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up The Adulteress. A hanging stance can be taken on on Crime And Punishment.

First Ascents

  1. S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981
  2. S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981
  3. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986
  4. M.Richards - 2013
  5. G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981
  6. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988
  7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983
  8. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987
  9. R.Thomas 20.09.1998
  10. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982


The Story of Skull Attack

Skull Attack is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of Crime And Punishment's ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, Skull Attack is the famous Brains SA Bitter.

Wedge Wall

File:Wedge wall.jpg
Wedge Wall

The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

  1. The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+
    Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m

  2. Wedgling - Fr. 5
    Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m

  3. Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+
    Shared belay. 10 m

  4. Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5
    Shared belay with route on right. 10 m

  5. Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+
    Face climbing on crimps. 10 m

Terrace Wall Upper Tier

Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of Terrace Wall, just below Wedge Wall.

  1. Ayla - 8m HS
    Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

First Ascents

  1. Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab

Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

  1. Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *
    Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements.

  2. Moss Bros HVS - 4c
    The crack to the right with a starting bulge.

  3. Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*
    The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved.

Lifebuoy Buttress

  1. The Axe 14m E1,5a
    The left hand arete.

  2. Blockbuster 14m Fr 5+.
    The wall 3m right of The Axe. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing.

  3. Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+
    The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner.

  4. Pulpit 14m HVS,5a
    Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of Blockbuster to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top.

  5. Crunch 24m VS,4c
    Some 6m right of Pulpit is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress.

Black Buttress Quarry

File:Black buttress.jpg
Black Buttress

About 40m right of Lifebuoy Buttress are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At Black Buttress Left there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at Black Buttress Right a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

Black Buttress Left

  1. unnamed 15m 6b
    There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware.

  2. A Life without Porpoise15m 6c+
    Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route.

  3. Bragg 12m V Diff
    Follow flakes and a corner in the centre.

  4. Little Spider 10m VD
    Up and 8 metres to the right of Bragg, Follow the crackline to the terrace.

Silent Fright Buttress

File:Silent fright buttress.jpg
Silent Fright Buttress
BOLT POLICY: No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from Black Buttress. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (An Audience of Sheep).

  1. Silent Fright 24m E4,6a *
    Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish.

  2. Deafening Calm HVS 4c
    Just right (~1m) of the Silent Fright arete is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove.

  3. Summertime Blues 15m HVS,5a
    Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of Silent Fright.

  4. Playground Twist 15m E2,5c *
    The crack just right of Summertime Blues.

  5. Executioner's Thrill 15m E4,6b *
    A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of Playground Twist.

  6. The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman 12m E3,5c
    Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection.

  7. Lundy Tilting 15m E2,5c
    Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top.

  8. An Audience of Sheep 15m E5,6b
    The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section.

Windy Buttress

File:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg
Windy Buttress

Just up the slope from Sinners Walls.Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

  1. Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+
    More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free......

  2. Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *
    Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade.

  3. A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a
    Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge.

  4. Blow Up - Fr. 5+
    Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate.

FIRST ASCENTS

Wedge Wall

  4. Tim Hoddy solo 16.07.1987

Lifebuoy Buttress

  1. T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985
  2. N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978
  3. R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011
  4. N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982
  5. A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981

Black Buttress

  1. Stu Llewellyn 2011
  2. Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014
  3. N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978
  4. Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011

Black Buttress Right

  1. R. Thomas 2016
  2. A.Berry 00.00.1997
  3. R.thomas 2016
  4. G. Gibson
  5. G. Gibson
  6. G. Gibson
  7. G. Gibson
  8. G. Gibson
  9. R. Thomas
  10. R. Thomas
  11. G. Gibson
  12. R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016
  13. Joe Squire 2009'
  14. G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997
  15. R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013
  16. R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016

Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right

  1. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017
  3. ditto
  6. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017

Silent Walls

  1. Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017
  2. R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017
  3. R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017
  4. G.G R.T
  7. G.G

Silent Fright Buttress

  1. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
  2. FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11
  3. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985
  4. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
  5. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
  6. M.Crocker 02.08.1988
  7. M.Crocker 02.08.1987
  8. M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987
  9. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988

Calcite Bay Left

  1. G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017
  2. G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017
  3. G.G R.T
  4. G.G R.T 2017

Calcite Bay Right

  1. R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017
  2. R.T G.G
  3. R.T G.G
  4. R.T G.G
  5. R.T G.G
  6. R.T G.G 2017


  1. G.Gibson R.Thomas
  2. G.G R.T
  3. G.G R.T july 2017

Sinners Walls

  1. '
  2. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017
  3. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017
  4. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017
  5. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017
  6. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017
  7. R.T
  8. R.T Tim H 2017
  9. R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017
  10. R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017
  11. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017
  12. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017
  13. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017
  14. Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017
  15. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017
  16. G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017
  17. A.Sharp 1988
  18. Chris Allen 00.08.2017

Windy Buttress

  2. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017

The Fat Lady Wall

  1. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy
  2. R.Thomas 00.08.2017
  3. R.Thomas 00.08.2017
  4. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017
  5. R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017

Carbon Slab

  1. R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017
  2. R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017
  3. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017
  4. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017
  5. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017
  6. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017
  7. G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017
  8. G.Gibson July 2017

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

  • Black butress far far right.jpg
  • Working.jpg
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