Bargoed

BARGOED GR006153 PREAMBLE A small quarry consisting of two walls seperated by an arete. West facing, sheltered during the winter, but a suntrap in the summer. Lichen can be a problem at times, though is easy to remove and it is not as bad as the burnt rubber coating at Penrhiwceiber. Some care is needed with the remaining loose rock. Most of the routes could just about be described as sports climbs, but without belay bolts. There is a good telegraph pole about 20m back from the top of the crag, but watch out for the goat. There is also a tip at the left-hand end to add to the general Valleys ambience of the place (Beware). ACCESS From Bargoed town centre, follow the B4511 northwards to a steep right hand bend ¼ mile beyond the town centre. Park on the left. On foot, alight at Bargoed railway station, take the east exit and turn left to reach the same spot. Walk 100m up the hill and turn into Quarry Row on the left hand side. Proceed 100m down to the track to the obvious quarry on the right. THE ROUTES 1. Mr. Gorrilla’s Got A Big Nose 9m E3,6b Fr7a * The slab at the left-hand side of the wall left of the central tower. Desperate. BR, PR. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 04.03.1989 2. Pepperatzi 14m E2,5b The obvious corner left of the main arete. L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989 3. Blowing For Tugs 14m E4,6b Fr7a+ * The route of the crag. The wall left of the main arete has a desperate and somewhat baffling move to pass the BR (hint, a heelhook/footlock is needed). The wall above is somewhat easier and possesses a mega-bong. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989 4. Hawk’s Cheep 14m E2,5c The corner to the right. P.Lewis, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 29.01.1989 5. Our Man In Bargoed 6m E2,6b Fr6c+ The wall to the right currently only climbed to a good hold above the BR. It is inadvisable to continue to abseil off the pegs at 14m, as they have now fallen out. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989 6. Black Dog 12m E2,6a To the right is a sloping ramp at 3m. Gain this, move up a few metres, then step left to a BR. Climb the groove and crack above, PR. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989 7. Up For Grabs 12m E3,6a Gain the same ramp, but move right to a PR. Continue up the groove past further PRs. Finish on the shelf above. M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes 00.00.1989