Bantam Bay

Gower

GR 574865

TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal, although the approach is sometimes cut off at spring tides.

PREAMBLE

This is the sort of crag that only a local or seasoned Gower visitor would be interested in finding. It does tend to become dirty from under-use and the finishes are atrocious, but the climbing is good.

ACCESS

The walk in is either by following the path round from Graves End or Pwll Du for ½ mile (refer to these sections for details) to reach the first obvious cove, which is Bantam Bay itself.

DESCENTS

A lower off rope is essential for the routes here.

THE ROUTES

The routes start at a small crag just round to the left of Bantam Bay proper.

1. The Rugby Club 15m VS,4c

At the left side is a small pinnacle with an overhanging crack at its left-hand side.

2. Big Crack 15m VS,4c

The distinctive crack on the far left end of the craglet proper.

3. Phil Lynott 15m HVS,5a

To the right of the crack is a shallow overhanging corner.

4. Stepped Corner 15m E1,5b

At the right-hand side of the bay is a stepped corner.

Further right, the crag becomes slabby and overgrown until the rock breaks through with a roof and corner.

5. Egged On 18m E2,5c

Follow cracks to the middle of the roof, which is taken at its centre. Move right to finish.

6. Rampant Cockerel 18m E2,5c

The corner to the obvious roof. Move right and pull over it strenuously. Continue up the wall above.

7. Don't Count Your Chickens 18m E2,5c

Start just right of the arete at an overhang. Boulder to gain a crack, which leads to hard moves left onto a ledge. Move back right and to the top.

8. Ruffled Feathers 18m E2,6b *

A good route taking the perfect splitting crack in the centre of the wall. The start is a heinous boulder problem taken from the left.

9. Gift Horse 18m E1,5b

The obvious corner crack.

10. Wide Eyed And Legless 18m E1,5b

The thin crack in the short wall to the right. Step back left and follow the groove above. This route has been completely overgrown by ivy.

There is also a 12m quarried wall further back, undercut by a cave left of centre. There is an obvious rusty stain.

11. Fought Shitening Crack 12m E4,5c

The wide crack on the left, to a bold swing right to the finish of Alarm Race.

12. Alarm Race 12m E4,5c *

The overhanging finger jam cracks just left of the chimney and the obvious continuation.

13. Roast Dinner Man's Rift 12m E3,5c

The obvious chimney.

14. Hip 'Op 12m E6,6b ***

Start 2m right of the chimney, pull up flake cracks into a groove and gain good lay offs above, TR. Stretch right onto the headwall, PR and make a long move for pockets and the top.

15. Piss Off 12m E6,6b

To the right, hard moves up the rust streak by a boss of rock past microwires lead to an exit through

conglomerate. Sounds great.

16. Lift Off 11m E1,5b

Gain the slim corner moving right at the top to join Blast Off.

17. Blast Off 11m E2,5b

The overhanging cracks right of the slim corner.

18. Right Edge 12m S

Gain Direct from the diagonal crack down and right. Finish up Direct, or up the arete.

FIRST ASCENTS

1. P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991

2. J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991

3. P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991

4. J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991

5. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.11.1985

6. C.Parkin, P.Blackburn 00.00.1985

7. P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985

8. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 07.11.1985

9. G.Royle, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 07.11.1985

10. P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985

11. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001

12. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001

13. M.Crocker 22.07.2001

14. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001

15. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000

16. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000

17. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000

18. Unknown 00.00.1958