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Baltic Quarry
GR063116
By Ren Hoek
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
Baltic Quarry lies high on the hillside, facing west and overlooking Ponsticill. Although part of the Northern Bay reaches 30m and sports an interesting route, the main interest lies in the extensive short cliffs. The rock quality is excellent and although many of the routes are more safely led, the main value of the quarry lies in the fine soloing to be had and the recently retro bolted sports routes.
ACCESS
Taf Fechan Approach - Park in the lay-by as for Taf Fechan (see Taf Fechan Access) and follow the Brecon Mountain Railway north for ½ mile before striking up the hillside to the Southern Bay.
Ponsticill Approach - Park at Pontsticill Reservoir dam (GR062119). Cross the Brecon Mountain Railway and strike diagonally southeast up the hillside to the Northern Bay.
DESCENTS
Scrambling at various points.
THE ROUTES
Northern Bay
- Minuscule VS 5b
The short arete started from the left.6m. - Taff’s Not Well VS 4b
The left-hand of two prominent aretes.12m. - Rediscovery VS 5a
The right-hand arete.10m. - Andy Borehole VS 5a
The long borehole in the smooth wall right of Rediscovery.6m - Holiday Fever E1 5b
Start 9m right of Andy Borehole. Climb a thin crackline, under a sapling.9m.
Over to the right is a prominent rock arch. - Exam Blues HVS,5b
Start 4m left of the rock arch and climb a wall and crack.9m. - Temptress VS,5a
The thin crack 2m right of Exam Blues.9m. - The Arch Fr 6b+
Pull through the rock arch with difficulty, then trend rightwards to finish.9m. - Slagged Off Fr 6b+
Climb the steep wall and short square-cut groove right of The Arch and below a tree.9m. - Lonesome Pine Fr 6b+
To the right of Slagged Off is a steep wall terminating at an arete. Climb the wall.9m. - Slight Alterations Fr6b+ *
The calcite cracks in the arete overlooking the south edge of the spoil heap has a dynamic finish.9m - Not So Plain Jane E2,5b
The groove to the right of Slight Alterations.9m. - Health Inspector ’87Fr 6c+
The right side of the blunt arete between the grooves right of Not So Plain Jane.9m. - Sanitize E2,6a
The calcitic wall right of Health Inspector ’87, with a hard move to start and a long reach for the upper break. Bear right to lower off a small hawthorn.12m. - Sterilise Fr 6c
The grooved arete right of Sanitize provides a difficult problem. Finish up the left side.12m.
Over to the right is a smooth wall. - Unknown E1,5c
Climb the line on slots at the left side of the smooth wall.10m. - Light Speed 9m E2,6cClimb directly up the smooth wall, BR.9m.
- Why Wimp Out? 6m HVS,5c
Nice climbing up the centre of the short leaning wall towards the south end of the quarry.6m.
Southern Bay
- Iron Awe 9m HVS,5b
Climb the centre of the rust coloured wall in the left-hand side of the bay, exiting rightwards.9m. - Metal Mistake 9m E3,6b
A direct line up the left side of the steep block wall via a projecting handhold at 3m. Replacing a bolt hanger reduces the grade to E1.9m. - Harmony Of The Skies 9m E3,6b
The thin crack to the right of Metal Mistake.9m. - Smile 9m VS,5a
The smooth grey wall right of Harmony Of The Skies.9m. - Appear, Smear, Disappear Then Reappear 12m E2,6a *
Climb directly up the faint line of weakness in the calcite slab right of Smile. Finish direct or traverse off right.12m. - Bumbling About In Bhutan 12m E4,6b
Enter the pod right of Appear etc. and pull straight over the bulge to finish rightwards.12m. - Tortured 9m VS,4c
The fine left-hand crack.9m. - Traction 9m VS,5a
The right-hand crack.9m. - Curb All Intransigence 9m E1,5c
The fine square-cut arete on its right-hand side.9m.
