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Abercynon High Buttress
South East Wales Sandstone GR 078958
PREAMBLE
A series of natural sandstone buttresses on the hillside overlooking Abercynon. All the current routes are either on a rectangular buttress above the tree line, or the buttress immediately above it.
J. Madison has details of bouldering in the vicinity http://www.abercynonbouldering.wetpaint.com/
Also see The Little Gap
ACCESS
The best approach is probably from The Gap (see The Gap for details). From the left-hand side of the lower quarry, go up the banking and across the plateau. Carry straight on when the ground starts dropping down, taking care not to fall over the top.
THE ROUTES
Lower Buttress
1. Eagle VS,4c
The crack, overhang and wall on the rectangular buttress. 9m
S.Richardson, C.Shorrock 00.09.1991
Upper Buttress
There are a couple of unrecorded Severes and:
1. Raped Arete - HS 4a **
The perfect hanging arete in the middle of the crag is taken on its right-hand side. An awesome solo proposition. 7m
Olly Birrell, Jamie Maddison. Solo 08/06/2009
2. Girdle Traverse S,4a
As the name suggests. 15m
C.Shorrock 00.09.1991
