Ynsboeth Craig-Y-Siomi

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR077954

PREAMBLE

Possibly the most obscure crag on sandstone. The quarry that can easily be seen from the Abercynon to Aberdare road up on the hill behind the Gap proves a little disappointing if you are (un)lucky enough to find it. It does dry quickly and there is room for a couple more VSs and has the only graded jump in the area.

ACCESS

As for The Gap. Park or walk to the upper quarry and follow a vague track leading directly down from the Gap proper into the forest. Cross the fence, and go straight down through the trees following a direct unmarked line to come to a clearing after about 300m. Turn right, and proceed 100-200m to reach the quarry.

THE ROUTES

1. Hallucinogenic Road Works - 9m, E2,6a
   The blunt arete on the left of the quarry, climbed on its right throughout, BR. No belay. Jump off right (J2).
   
   
2. Stay At The Gap - 9m, VS,4c
   To the left is a narrow slab, located by the BB at the top. Start up a groove below this, then move left out on to the arete, skilfully avoiding the rocking block. Step right at the top, BB. Aptly named.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. G. Ashmore, S. Coles - 30.03.1992
2. G. Ashmore, S. Coles - 30.03.1992