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Sugardaddy Gasworks
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionists permission. New sports route allowed. Please help your selves to the projects, even the bolted ones. All 'projects' can be considered free for the taking.
PREAMBLE
A small quarry of good sandstone. The back areas take a long time to dry.
ACCESS
NGR: ST 06609 86601
Located in the woods to the rear of Beddau Coking Works. Park by the housing in front of the Coke Works. The track along the west side of the former Coke Works is a Public Right of Way (but not for vehicles). Follow this to the rear of the coke works where the road goes through a gate, curves left. After the curve a track goes up the slight slope. Follow this through some trees. The track continues and a left branch leads eventually to a pond - ignore this branch - soon after the path crosses a stream (often dry) and after one can see a slight valley to the left. Follow this into the quarry. If you pass an old electricity building you've walked too far.
DESCENT
All routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
ROUTES
Described from left to right.
Entrance Wall
- Little Licker - Fr. 5
Short wall in left side of quarry.
- Lolita's Lolly - Fr. 6a
Delicate pockety.
- Barnacle Bills' Masturbatarium Fr 6c)
Sustained climbing up the thin crack.
- Beef Honeycombe - Fr. 6b
Pocketed wall above the stump, over the small roof on its left side.
- Daddy Still Loves You - Fr. 6a+
Follow the series of small ledges to the left of the arete, over the small roof.
Back Wall
Further delights may reside in the damp vegetated recesses at the back of the quarry.
FIRST ASCENTS
Entrance Wall
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 21/05/2011
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 14/05/2011
- D. Emanuel
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
Second Wall
- Project - D. Emanuel
- Project - D. Emanuel
Right-Hand Slabs
- Project - D. Emanuel
- Project - D. Emanuel
- Project - D. Emanuel
