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Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry
Contents
Bolting Policy
Bolting Permitted - The more the Merrier.
Access
The quarry is located above the village of Six Bells, directly overlooking the Six Bells Miners Memorial.
Approaching from Newport, follow the A467 to the roundabout at Aberbeeg. Taking the third exit, following the signs to Six Bells.
In the village of Six Bells one passes the Six Bells Hotel. Immediately opposite the pub Cemetery Road rises towards the village of Brynithel (brown road sign with church symbol). Follow this road for a few hundered meters where a layby is located on the left. Park here and follow the road back down about 50m to a rusty gate and rising track. The track leads directly into the quarry.
Descents
All routes have lower-offs or shared lower-offs.
Preamble
A compact quarry with routes in the low to mid grades. The sandstone is clean and very good quality. The quarry has an open aspect and dries quickly.
ROUTES
Left Hand Wall
The left of the quarry appears broken but contains a few gems.
- Worzel's Sore Stump - Fr. 5
The blocky arete to chain LO. - Worzel Swede Splitter - Fr. 5+
Second line in quarry leading to the splitter crack and lower-off. - Little Miss Dirty Fingers - Fr. 4+
Leftward trending scramble to base of vertical crack - Climb crack or face. - No More Mr Nice Gummidge - Fr. 6a
Up the twisting crack, over the roof onto jugs. - Aunt Sally - Fr. 6a+
Right of Mr Gummidge, delicate moves on tiny foot holds with huge reaches.
Right Hand Wall
- Project (The Not so Great Gully) - Fr. 5
The arete on the righthand side of the gully. Best to lower-off from the ledge as the rock above appears 'detatched' - Stand by Your Moose - Fr. 5+
The leftward trending fissure beneath the rhodedendron. - Dancing Spleen - Fr. 5+
The next crack in the wall,great moves at the top. - Malfoy - Fr. 5+
The face to the left of the sloping arete/
Arete Area
As one enters the quarry they are met with a prominent arete.
- Pucker Up - Fr. 6a
Left hand side of the slab to the left of the arete. - Hershey Highway - Fr. 5
Centre of slab left of arete. - Worzel Japsi - Fr. 5+ **
The best route in the quarry? A direct ascent of the arete on reachy moves. Excellent flawless rock. - Silverback - Fr. 5
The centre of the face to the right of the arete. - Choke A Darkie - Fr. 5
Short face route to the right of the corner. - Half Crown-Threpenny Bit - Fr.5+
Middle route on the short face. - Project - (5+?)
The third short face. - Blue Orgy - Fr. 4
The stepped scramble in the right of the quarry upto fist jam crack. Possibly the easiest bolted route in South Wales or is ripple slab (Fr 3 at Blaenllechau) the holder of this dubious accolade? Ideal for beginners. - Smurfettes' Night Off - Fr. 4
The arete, approached from its righthad side. Another nice route for beginners - Project (The Hills are Alive with the Smell of Starfish) - Fr. 5(?)
The left edge of the slab, trending rightwards. - Project (Love Songs from the Meat Counter) - Fr. 5+(?)
The right side of the slab direct.
FIRST ASCENTS
Left Hand Wall
- R.Thomas N. O'Neill D. Emanuel 2011
- R. Thomas, N. O'Neil 10/08/2011
- D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, N. O'Niel 10/08/2011
- D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
- D. Emanuel 15/10/2011
Right Hand Wall
- D. Emanuel
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 06/08/2011
- D. Emanuel 15/10/2011
Arete Area
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 11/07/2011
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 11/07/2011
- R. Thomas 06/08/2011
- R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 11/07/2011
- D. Emanuel, (Solo avec drill) 31/07/2011
- D. Emanuel
- D. Emanuel 06/08/2011
- D. Emanuel
- D. Emanuel
