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Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar)
GR934981
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
New sports routes allowed or not?
PREAMBLE
A great crag in a stunning position (especially if facing away from Treherbert). Not recommended in winter due to it's exposed position. Plenty of scope for new routes. Some bolt belays are now available to replace/supplement the former belays (tied off earth mounds). The stake on the top is very shallow and should not be relied on as anything other than a rope guide for lowering off. The BB is hidden down the back of the pillar.
ACCESS
The crag lies up the mountainside above Treherbert railway station - a convenient way of arriving if on foot. If coming by car drive to the same place and park. Cross over the track to the far side of the railway, and follow a track left across a stream, then take the track up right. Continue up this for 1/4 mile, until a trail breaks off left after a couple of bends where the track starts to flatten out. This track leads directly up to the crag in about 5 minutes.
DESCENTS
Lower off or walk off? Rope length required?
THE ROUTES
Main Pillar
From right to left (as approached) and left of a free standing blocky pillar:
1. Nailbiter 18m E4,6a
The leaning wall right of the obvious crack in the wall, 1BR, PR.
2. Thumbsucker 18m E4,6a ***
The classic finger jamming crack. The Mau Mau and the Heaven Crack of sandstone!
3. Nosepicker 18m E5,6b **
The arete to the left, 2PRs, BR.
4. Bizarre Geetar 18m E3,5c
The crack/wall/arete round the corner. PR (missing).
5. Lamb Leer Disease 18m E1,5b
The dirty crack on the front face of the pillar.
Main Bay
6. Baker Day 9m HS,4b
Over left from the pillar is a short wall rising from a ditch at the top of the banking. This route takes the chimney on the right-hand side of the crag.
7. Submerged By Blubber 8m E2,5b
The crack and roof to the left.
8. Little Big Ego 9m E2,6a
The crack to the left stepping in from the boulders.
Back Crag
Round the back of the quarry, and over to the left is another pillar:
9. Lynch ‘Em 12m E5,6a
This routes takes the leaning, unprotected groove in the south face of the pillar.
10. Exterminate All Bolt Thieves 12m E4,6a
A bold line to the right.
First Ascents
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
- M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.12.1988
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
- M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.12.1988
- M.Ward, M.Crocker 31.12.1988
- R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
