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Crab Island Crag
GR SS 615 869
Contents
[hide]TIDAL STATUS
Accessible about 2½ hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
PREAMBLE
A good little crag, easily accessible, sheltered and quick drying. Formerly described as "Rams Tor Bays" in the 1992 Gower and South East Wales Guidebook.
The crag is formed by an undercut west facing Main Wall and a taller south facing Back Wall set at right angles.
The Main Wall is a highly featured undercut slab that offers excellent possibilities for natural protection, a few thin slings will be useful for the multitude of spike runners available. There are also three good pegs at the top of the wall to aid belays. The Main Wall catches the sun from midday.
The Back Wall is similar but a little taller and steeper. Two metal stakes allow for easy belays.
ACCESS
A quicker approach for locals is from the cliff top path from Rotherslade.
Visitors should follow the B4433 (Mumbles Road) through Mumbles to park at the very end of the road past Limeslade Bay. This is just west of the Mumbles headland (GR SS 627 872), it has a small ice cream parlour/cafe above it. Walk west along the asphalt coastal path for about 500m until it starts to climb up some concrete steps, above Rams Tor. Follow the path a further 400 m until a staggered gap in the fence is reached, a steep muddy path zig zags its way to the top of the crag.
DESCENTS
There is an easy way down on the western spur of the bay.
Alternatively if the tide is up, cut across the top of the south facing Back Wall, passing two metal belay stakes and scramble down steep rock to a 40 degree slab opposite the Main Wall.
THE ROUTES
The routes are described from left to right.
Back Wall
1. Dream Of Tormented Ejaculation - HVS,4c
Follow the hideous chimney, then the more open wall leftwards at the left end of the back wall. 25m
2. Deep thought - E2,5c
Make a few moves up the chimney to get established on the pillar below the right hand of the slab. Difficult moves to a break are followed by more difficult moves directly up the slab, easing as the climber approaches the roof. Turn the roof to the left via the bottomless white groove. Take care with the top out. 21m
3. Suicide Groove - HVS,5b
An obvious, usually wet, layback crack just left of the cave leads across into the corner on the right. then up the corner finishing out right below the roof. 21m
Main Wall
The next five routes are undercut and start with a long step from the large boulder midway along the wall.
4. Fat Crack - VS,4b
The obvious wide crack 5m right of Suicide Groove. 18m
5. Something’s On The Wall - VS,4b
The wall right of Fat Crack. 18m
6. Romey - HS,4a
Move slightly left from the step across and head for a short vertical crack. Finish direct. 15m
7. Something’s On The Move - S
From the step, move directly up to the niche and finish direct. 15m
8. Lizetta’s Route - HS,4a
Climb the wall right of the niche. 15m
9. Stormwatch - HS,4b
From the ground struggle into a small cave at 4m. Climb steep cracks, the angle eases quickly. 12m
10. Unknown - S
The arete left of the first corner. 11m.
11. Where Did You Get That Girly Voice? - VS,4c
The steep left arete of the last right-angled corner. 9m
12. Oyster Bubble - VS,4b
The last right-angled corner. 9m
13. Space Oddity - VS,4c *
The obvious rising line across the face, finishing near Suicide Groove or better up pockets right of Fat Crack. A little bold at the start. 19m
14. Muttley - VS,5a
The crack in the wall right of Oyster Bubble. 9m
15. Dastardly - E1,5b
The crack in the bulge to the right of Muttley. 9m
FIRST ASCENTS
1. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
2. H. Jones, R Saxelby 00.06.1985
3. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
4. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
5. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
6. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
7. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
8. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
9. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
10. Unknown
11. M.Richards 00.00.1994
12. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
13. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
14. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
15. H.Jones, D.Bowman, A.Wilson 00.00.1985
