Dirty Harry Walls

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ACCESS

See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

To the right the crag forms three long slabs divided by corner cracks. The routes make up in length and adventure what they lack in rock quality and reasonable/sensible protection. In other words they are serious.

The Routes

First Slab

File:1st slab.jpg

1st Slab

1. General Gordon 35m VS
   This follows the friable left edge of the slab right of Fashoda Chimney. Climb a crack to an overhang, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner.
   
   
2. Khartoum 42m E2,5a
   Start at the featureless slab to the right of General Gordon. Climb the centre of the slab marked by a vague crack line, until it steepens below the headwall, PR. Follow horizontal bands to finish up a steep crack.
   
   
3. Never Again 42m HVS,4b
   Poor and loose. Climb the lower slab 12m left of Lady Jane to a crack in the steeper upper half.
   
   
4. Lady Jane 45m HVS,4a,4c
   Star below a corner crack on the right of the left slab. Serious in its upper section. Climb the slab past the first overhang to a ledge (possible belay). Climb up to a second roof, taking care with the rock. Step left to finish up a corner.
   
   
5. No Shadow of Doubt 45m E3,5c,5c 2pt
   A spectacular outing. Start as for Lady Jane.
   1. 21m Climb the slab of Lady Jane, hand traverse right above the first roof and move up the bulging wall above, PR, to the arete. Climb this to a ledge. Large Friends are useful.
      
   2. 24m Move 3m left up to a roof then use 2PA to gain the wall above and the top, PR, TR.
      
      

First Ascents

1. J.Mothersele, G.Jones 00.00.1971
2. C.Heard, C.Pound, R.Thomas 00.00.1981
3. G.Royle, R.Thomas 00.07.1986
4. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
5. R.Thomas, J.Bullock, M.Learoyd 2pt 00.08.1985

Second Slab

File:Ogmore 2nd slab.jpg

2nd Slab

1. Camptrail 39m HVS,5a
   This takes the left edge of the slab, loose. Climb 3m right of the arete to a ledge on the left. Continue in the same line to finish.
   
   
2. Marooned 42m HVS,4c,4c
   A climb without a finish. Continuously loose. Start in the centre of the slab left of Falls Road.
   1. 22m Climb through the lower overhangs, then up and left to belay at the halfway ledge on the arete.
   2. 20m Traverse left round the arete into Lady Jane and finish up that climb.
      
      
3. A Tale Of High Adventure HVS 4c
   Weave up to and about the blind crack which may or may not be the same one as Jermyn Street.The consolation prize is the sturdy scaffoling pole belay in the turf above.45m
   
   
4. Jermyn Street 44m E1,5a
   This route climbs the slab 6m left of Falls Road. Start at a ledge 4m up the corner crack of Falls Road. Climb up leftwards for 6m to a slight ridge, continue up for 18m then trend left to reach a faint crack leading to the top.
   
   
5. Red Light 42m E1,5a
   Serious. Start 4m left of Falls Road and climb until 6m from the top. Traverse right and finish up a crack line.
   
   
6. Falls Road 45m HVS,4c
   The obvious corner/crack on the right of the slab. Climb the corner for 21m then move onto an earthy ledge. Follow a groove to exit right above an overhang. The upper section is filthy and has poor protection.
   
   

First Ascents

1. P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 13.12.1977
2. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 18.10.1978
3. Alan Rosier 201?
4. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 11.12.1977
5. P.Littlejohn, M.Price 16.03.1980
6. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1974

A Tale of High Adventure, VS 4c - left of Falsity wall. Weave up to and around a blind crack in the upper half of the slab. Serious as not cleaned, new stake at top.

Falsity Wall

File:Falsity wall.jpg

Falsity Wall

Contains the forbidding but reasonably graded Norwegian Wood E2 and Falsity E2. This wall is much steeper than appearances suggest. Be prepared to leave a rope in place and clean in advance (stakes in place).

The crag now faces west again.

1. Norwegian Wood E2,5b
   Gain and follow the obvious rightward-trending calcite line over a small roof to a ledge in the middle of the wall (possible peg belay). Follow the calcite line to/ and continue with care up the arete. 45m.
   
   
2. Yesterday's Heroes E2,5b
   A more direct and solid line starting l of the corner of Falsity gaining the ledge of Norweigan Wood and continuing as per that route. 42m.
   
   The high part of the wall has two black streaks
   
   
3. Black Looks E4,5c ***
   Frightening, leaving a rope for the grassy exit should reduce the fear factor (minimally). Gain the ledge as for Falsity, up then left to the horizontal break and the start of the longest black streak (place numerous runners here) Proceed up widely spaced rounded breaks with the hopeful possibility of dubious large friend placements. Enjoy!! 42m.
   
   
4. Spring Fever E3,5c *
   As for Falsity then up the shorter R hand black streak (PR). 42m.
   
   
5. Falsity E2,5b*
   The classic and most regular of routes on this wall. Start at the obvious corner, flowstone sheets then pull over roof to ledge continuing as for Norweigan Wood. 43m.
   
   
6. Far City E3,5b,5c
   Wandering and a bit crunchy.Start as for Falsity then traverse R 6m,up steep friable rock to a large ledge.Belay.27m.Walk R until beneath a hanging corner.Climb it exiting l to finish up a wall and ramp.17m.
   
   

First Ascents

1. A.Sharpe Prof J. Harwood P. Lewis 14.09.1977
2. L.Foulkes P. Lewis 1980
3. R.Thomas M. Learoyd G. Royle 1984.
4. R.Thomas G. Royle 1987.
5. P. Littlejohn J. Mothersele 20.06.1977
6. L.Foulkes D.Renshaw 1983

Third Slab

File:Ogmore third slab.jpg

Third Slab. Photograph: Steve Delaney

To the right is the third and largest slab.The rock is resonable in the lower half then becomes more vegetated higher up

1. Easy Action 42m VS,4b
   Start 6m left of the prominent central crack 5m from the left side of the slab, below a crack 5m up. Climb to the latter crack from the left and climb it to its top, finishing up the wall above.
   
   At the base of the central part are two tidal pools seperated by a boulder
2. Another Christmas Tree Adventure45m VS 4c
   Just L of the pool,step up onto a small ledge 1m up then proceed over 2 bulges(top one has a crack) to gain the mid slab belay. Proceed up the slab above or sensibly lower off and leave the top pich for a "one off" after doing the two proceeding routes.
   
   
3. Tattered Adventurer 46.9m E1 5b
   Take the short steep wall under the imposing roof then pull over direct on good holds. Continue directly over the top bulge to the junction with Sense Of Adventure.
   
   
4. Sense Of Adventure 45m VS,4b,4b?
   Climb the chimney in the centre of the slab to its top with excellent protection.. Continue up a line of weakness and left to finish.
   
   
5. Joint VentureHVS 4c 45m
   Above the left edge of the pool,steeply up to a small ledge,more steep pulls(blue threads) gain rounded breaks(Small cam F1) then the central belay.
   
   
6. No Sense Venture VS 4c,4b
   
   1. Skirt the left edge of the pool below the crack/chimney of Sense of Adventure head of right easily at first then continue past rounded breaks(pink thread) to an obvious belay ledge.
   2. Step R and continue up the protectable de-turfed top crack of Wimaway or continue more boldly direct to a grassy top out and situ belay stakes.
      
      
7. Capital Venture VS 4b,4b
   
   1. The lower pitch follows the wall L of Wimaway.Step onto the square cut ledge at the R end of the pool and make for the obvious mid height belay.Good large nut and friend protection.
   2. Top pitch of Wimaway.
      
      
8. Wimaway 45m HVS,4b,4b
   Presumably this follows the obvious L ascending diagonal weakness at the end of the first pool but the original description is included,so make your own decision." This climbs the corner between Sense Of Adventure and the right-hand side of the slab."
   1. 30m Climb to a corner and follow this to a stance on the left.
   2. 15m Finish directly.
      
      It is advisable to leave a rope in place down the finishing grassy gully for the next routes.
      
      
9. Surprise Package 36m VS,4a
   Start just right of Wimaway at a boulder. Step off the boulder, move right to a groove, climb this and the wall above for 24m then move right to a grassy gully (poor belay) to finish carefully.
   
   
   File:Third slab 2.jpg

   Third Slab
10. Gepe 30m VS,4b
    Climb the deep chimney-cleft on the right side of the third slab to a corner. Finish up the gully.
    
    The next routes do not finish on the top of the cliff. It is sensible to leave an abseil rope in place.
    
    
11. Blackjack 24m VS,4b
    Gain the plinth of pontoon then move around L from the Base of the L hand groove into the chimney and climb the black slabby wall to rejoin pontoon.
    
    
12. Pontoon 24m VS,4c
    Climb the groove in the rib just right of the deep cleft of Gepe. Abseil(newly installed 2015) at 24m.
    
    
13. Simple Twist 24m E2,5c
    Start 4m right of Gepe, left of a short corner(seems to have succumbed to storms) below the left side of a square-cut roof. Climb the wall into the corner, then move right and around the arete to a crack. Climb it to its top. Abseil.
    
    
14. Twist HVS 5a
    Gain the same crack somehow from the rightThen abseil from the same decomposing belay station.
    
    
15. 'Sandstorm VS 4b
    Very old school dusty crack ending in a crumbly cave with remnants of rusty gear and slings to lower off,knock yourself out ,have an adventure!

First Ascents

1. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 18.10.1981
2. J.Harwood, P.Lewis 03.07.1980
3. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 12.08.2015
4. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 2015
5. R.Thomas Ed Rees 25.07.2015
6. R.Thomas Nick O'Neill Ed Rees R.Phillips 09.07.2015
7. R.Thomas (solo)pich 1 only 23.07.2015
8. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.05.1981
9. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.05.1981
10. J.Harwood solo 17.05.1981
11. R.Thomas solo 00.10.2015

1. C.Horsfield, J.Harwood 25.05.1977
2. P.Littlejohn 26.05.1977