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Dyfryn Woods Crag
Postcode district: SA10 7
Grid ref: SS 727 999
Lat: 51:41:03N (51.6843) Lon: 3:50:30W (-3.84168)
Contents
BOLTING POLICY
This is a bolted crag but further bolting has ceased due to the sensitive nature mentioned below.
PREAMBLE
A maturing, east facing crag, with fabulous views of Swansea Bay and the Neath Valley
Remeniscent of both the Upper Gap and Coed Ely this is a good venue for the 6a/6b climber.
Probably the only reason it doesn't qualify as a 3 star crag is its lack of harder routes.
Do not put the climbing at risk by driving on the Woodland Trust tracks but park up either behind the church or the farm and make the pleasant 30/15 min walk to the crag, this also saves wrecking your tyres and suspension.
ACCESS
From the M4 at Junction 43, drive northbound on the A465.
Turn off after 3km, signposted Neath.
At the roundabout go left, signposted Skewen (A4230).
At the next roundabout, take the left after the Tesco entrance, signposted Skewen (A4230).
At the mini roundabouts take a right turn up the hill, signposted Longford.
After negotiating the “tank traps” follow the lane for 2 miles past the Glyn Clydach Hotel. Just after passing the Church is a sharp right hand bend, take a left turn on this bend, small sign for Grange Farm.
Park almost immediately by forest gates 50 m on the right and follow your nose up the track for 30 mins.
For a shorter (10 min) approach; continue up the road, after a sharp right, pass a gas plant (about 1 km from junction) a little further is the farm. Park very considerately. Forest tracks lead up up up 600 m to the escarpment.
Currently the landowner - The Woodland Trust - has made it known that they are not happy with this site being used. In order not to jeopodise future access it would be better that groups (esp. commercial) avoid the crag. Absolutely no vehicle access to crag, WALK!
DESCENTS
Lower offs even on the trad route.
Routes are described from left to right
Catch first sight of the crag as the track takes a sharp tyre wrecking right hand bend.
- Sub prime market - VS 4b
Small slabby wall by pole gate to single bolt.11m.
SERENDIPITY BUTTRESS
- Serendipity - Fr. 5+
Tricky to start,pegs.11m. - Enigma - Fr. 6b**
Superb route,stainless bolts.11m. - Who Dunnit ? - Fr.6a
2 bolts to same lower off as previous.11m. - You Dunnit - Fr.6b*
Stainless bolts to separate lower off.11m. - Pocket Battleship - Fr.5+**
Brilliant route up arête.12m.
CHIMNEY BAY
- Light Cruiser - Fr.6a+*
Right side of arête, tricky at top.12m. - Dirty Deeds - Fr.5+
Peg runner to start. Lower off just left of chimney.12m. - Get yer fist in - Fr.5+
Follow cracks then chimney taking care with blocks at the top.12m. - Leave it to me - Fr.6c+
Steep wall and overlap left of grotesque chimney challenge.12m. - Flue Liner - Fr.6a
Get chimneying.12m. - Pot Black - Fr.6b*
Left side of black wall,tricky move at top will set your - Repetitive Stain Inquiry - Fr.6a+*
Left arête of tower.12m. - Porno Text King - Fr.6b*
Right side of tower.12m. - Silent Mode - Fr.6a
Hollow flakes and tricky move at overlap.12m.
- Rotters Club - Fr.5+
Initial wall leads to flake and groove.12m. - Bad Bad Boy - Fr.6b*
Right end of this wall over roof/nose to finish on arête.12m. - Down the drain - Fr.5
Arete and left side of chimney to lower off below tree.10m. - Our man from Hyder - Fr.5
Right side starting up pocketed wall.10m. - Mined like a sewer - HVS, 5a
Splitter - Off to Oz - Fr.5
Two pegs,very short,sling lower off.8m. - Ed’s Triumph - Fr.5+
Sling lower off plus ring.8m. - Nick’s Dilemma - Fr.6a
Bed knob bolts then secret hold to clip lower off.10m. - Playing away - Fr.6a
Start 1.69m right.11m. - A bit of nokia on the side - Fr.6b
Rounded pillar with staples.12m. - Barbara - Fr.6b
High first - Why did I bother - Fr.6b+
Hard fingery wall.12m. - Predictive Text - Fr.6b+*
excellent climbing up steep wall.12m. - Baggle Brook Affair - Fr.5*
Nice slab and passing large pocket in wall above.12m.
- Nifty fingers - Fr.6a
Start just right,steep wall above ledge.14m. - Lip service - Fr.6b
Pass bed knob,ledges to steep wall and tree.15m. - Family day - Fr.6b**
All stainless steel bolts to high belay above ledge.15m. - Affairs of man - Fr.6b
Slight corner,overlap and headwall to twin chains.15m. - Supply and demand - Fr.6b
Steep wall on pockets to shared lower off of groove.14m. - Demolition gang - Fr.6a
Groove to right,tricky start.14m.
- Birthday Bulge - Fr.5
Initial tricky wall passing silver birch .Scrap metal galore.12m. - Ed’s Folly - Fr.6a *
Nice wall behind Elder tree.14m. - Manky groove - Fr.5+
Rusty pegs to shared lower off,the name says it all.14m. - Memory man - Fr.6b
Bridge up chimney trend up left via secret hold.14m. - Gathering Gloom - Fr.6a+
Wall right of chimney,long reach to finish.14m. - Ockers delight - Fr.6b
Start at bulging nose up wall to fine finish over overhang.14m. - Nick to the rescue - Fr.6c **
The cave to right of gnarly oak, steep.14m. - Damp digits - Fr.6a+
The right edge of the cave.12m. - Straight and narrow - Fr.6a+
Wall to right of cave.12m.
FIRST ASCENTS
- R.Thomas G. Ashmore
SERENDIPITY BUTRESS
- R.Thomas 2007
- R.Thomas 2007
- R.ThomasSub Prime Market R. Thomas 2008
- G.Gibson R.Thomas 2007
- R.Thomas 2007
CHIMNEY BAY
- R.Thomas 2007
- R.Thomas 2008
- R.Thomas 2008
- Matt Hirst R.Thomas 2007
Serendipity
Enigma
Who Dunnit R.Thomas 2007
You Dunnit G. Gibson 2007
Pocket Battleship,Light Cruiser R .Thomas 2007
Dirty Deeds ,Get Yer Fist In R. Thomas 2008
Leave It To Me Matt Hirst 2007
Flue Liner,Pot Black,Slab Happy,Repetitive Stain Inquiry,Porno Text
King,Silent Mode,Rotters Club,Bad Bad Boy. R Thomas 2007
Down The Drain,Our Man From Hyder R Thomas 2008
Mined Like A Sewer Myles Jordan , Nicola Ruddock 2007
Off To Oz Richie Leyshan 2007
Ed’s Triumph Ed Rees 2007
Nick’s Dilemma,Playing Away,A Bit Of Nokia On The Side, R.Thomas 2007
Barbara G.Gibson 2007
Milky White,Why Did I Bother,Predictive Text,Baggle Brook Affair,Nifty
Fingers,Lip Service,Family Day,Affairs of Man.Supply on Demand R.Thomas 2007
Demolition Gang R.Thomas 2008
Birthday Bulge Gwyn Evans 2007
Ed’s Folly R.Thomas 2008
Manky Groove,Memory Man,Gathering Gloom,Ockers Delight,Nick To The Rescue
R.Thomas 2008
Damp Digits,Straight And Narrow R.Thomas 2009
