Crumlin (X3)

A.K.A. Glyn Quarry

Bolting Policy

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed.

Preamble

A disjointed quarry comprising various faces located around a boulder field within forestry land. The main face is positioned in the right of the quarry and apparently (according to the OS map) the upper left-hand tier of the quarry extends for a considerable distance into the trees so there may be some potential in this corner.

Access

NGR: E:325810, N 199475 The Quarry lies within the forest located south of the A472, between Pontypool and Crumlin. The quarry is difficult to find and cannot even be seen at close quarters. Approaching from Pontypool; after passing the junction for Lower Race, continue along the A472 (uphill). A gate is passed on your left, followed by a parking lay-by. Soon after the parking lay-by, just before the crest of the hill, is another gate. Pull in at this gate, making sure not to block access.

The quarry floor is filled with large boulders which can be difficult to negotiate (careful). A series of broken and discontinuous walls are seen as one enters the quarry. The climbing area is in the right hand side of the quarry (i.e. west).

If, after crossing the gate, you arrive at a former colliery building, you need to go back to your car and drive to the next gate along the A472.

Routes

1. Closed Projects

The Fins to the left of the main face

2. Some Trad Routes by R. Thomas (??) (2008)

Follow cracks through roof

3. Annette Get Wets on a Weekend in Bridgend (Fr. 6a) R. Thomas, D. Emanuel (08/09/2008)

Pass the Glued in Permo-Piton and move to the left as you cross the roof.

4. Precillas Damp Patch (Fr. 6b)R. Thomas, D. Emanuel (08/09/2008)

As Annette, move right after roof.

The Rock on the following routes, including the lower-offs, has a questionable fracture orientation and may topple off the face at any time.

5. Chitty Chitty Bone On (5b) D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 2008

Awkward Start on the leaning face to gain deep crack with protruding roots. Move rightwards towards lower-off.

6. Unnamed D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 2008

Enter Chimney, Escape Chimney, Re-enter chimney lower-off

7. Unnamed

Crack above tree-stump.