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Craig Cerrig-gleisiad

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South Wales Winter Climbs

OS 160 - GR 964218

BOLTING POLICY

This is a sensitive area and therefore no new sports routes are allowed!


PREAMBLE

Craig Carrig Gleisiad is a National Nature Reserve (NNR) and permission to climb is essential prior to climbing. The current reserve staff responsible for Craig Cerrig-gleisiad are Richard Preece and Jon Wohlgemuth (whom can be contacted during working hours) on 01873 733580/737000. Ice climbing on the NNR will be permitted ONLY when sufficient ice has formed and there is no risk to any plants being damaged by ice axes or crampons being embedded into turf and soil, or species growing on the rocks being dislodged. In addition, climbing is only allowed in the gullies on this cliff as there are rare and unusual plants on the buttresses that may be damaged by climbers.


ACCESS

Craig Carrig Gleisiad is a north facing easily accessible cliff well suited to the novice. The cliff can be reached from the layby on the A470 (G R 972223) by following the footpath alongside the stream in 20 minutes. The first prominent gully on the left is No 1 Gully.

The inclusion of a route or access description in this guide does not infer that the land is in public ownership or there is a public right of way.


DESCENTS

Walking towards the A470 and around the top of the cliff to the base is the normal decent route.


THE ROUTES

Described as approached; i.e. from left to right:

1. NO 1 GULLY 100 m grade 1


The following routes all start from near the top of the scree slope 300 m further on:


2. JAMMED BOULDER GULLY 100 m grade 2 *


3. LEFT HAND GULLY 100 m grade 1


4. WATERFALL GULLY 100 m grade 2/3 *


5. MINERS GULLY 60 m grade 2/3 *


6. CENTRAL GULLY 100 m grade 1