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Tor Gro

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Gower

Marsh Dance - Tor Gro
Tor Gro crags

TIDAL STATUS

The track along the bottom of the escarpment is briefly underwater at the top of spring tides.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting

PREAMBLE

Tor Gro is unique for Gower. The routes are located on a number of long (45 metre) slabs. Most of these slabs are vegetated. The climbing suffers from a distinct lack of lines, although Marsh Dance stands out as being a reasonable line.

The crag would surely qualify as 'Gower's only inland limestone crag' were it not for the access track flooding on the occasional spring tide. Nevertheless, the crag has a completely different feel to crags on the rest of Gower and is worth seeking out on those hot summer days when you feel like like something a little less demanding.

There are six large slabs in all. Routes are recorded only on four of them. A further two slabs lie at the western end; the last of which is quite sizable. Those prepared to do some new routes on these slabs should prepare for some serious crawling through undergrowth.

The climbing here is probably something of an acquired taste; the place is has a unique atmosphere with stunning views over the Loughor Estuary. Do Marsh Dance late on a summer evening and from the top ledge watch the sun disappear below the horizon.

ACCESS

The approach to all of the routes listed at this series of slabs involve some bush-whacking through sometimes dense undergrowth. You can get a good overview of the layout of the crag by wandering out 50 metres or so (if the tide permits) onto the salt marsh.

Park at the small car park at Llandimore (465930) and follow the track along the base of the escarpment for about 500 metres.

You can reach Main Slab by taking the grassy bank after 500 metres and then scramble up and rightwards through undergrowth and along sheep tracks to the bottom of the slab.

The other slabs (apart from Overhang Slab) can be found from here by scrambling/bush-whacking rightwards.

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DESCENTS

With most routes it is better to fix an abseil rather than suffer the steep descent through hawthorn and down muddy slopes.

THE ROUTES

Overhang Slab

This is the first undercut slab up and left of Main Slab. Something of a bush-whacking nightmare to reach, the slab is very "lumpy" and provides easy climbing. The only thing of interest is the large overlap which provides a move of about 4c.

  1. Overhang Direct 15m VS,4b
    The central line up the slab. The exit is unpleasant.

  2. Overhang Traverse 22m VS,4b
    Start at the right-hand end of the slab and climb directly to the overhang. Move left and finish up Overhang Direct.

Main Slab

This is the first slab reached when walking westwards along the bottom track.

  1. Central Slab 45m, HS 4a
    Climb the shallow groove right of the left edge of the slab. Where it peters out, bear slightly right to pass some small overlaps. Continue directly up, keeping right of the arete of the slab.

  2. Sycamore 45m, HS,4a
    Start just right of Central Slab below a small sycamore at 18m. Climb a vague scoop to the tree and move left to finish up a shallow depression, 1m right of the overlap on Central Slab.

  3. Sycamore Direct 45m, HS,4b
    As for Sycamore to the tree. Continue delicately up the slab above.

  4. Marsh Dance 50m, VS, 4b
    The best route of the crag, it has been substantially 'cleaned-up' since its first ascent, (then given E1,5a). It now has gear and holds! Worth a star in 'old money' on account of its position and stunning views from the top. Takes a direct line finishing at a ledge just below the top of the slab. Climb up to the scoop at around 20 feet and continue upwards and over a small overlap then straight up until it is possible to move left onto the final slightly steeper slab and the top. Enjoy the view!

  5. Altered Images 55m, HS,4b
    Climb the slab 8m right of Marsh Dance.

Hidden Slab

Reach this by scrambling 50 meters rightwards from the bottom of Main Slab

  1. Seeshicho 45m VS,4b
    Another route which has been substantially 'de-carpeted' Whilst this has led to a much safer climb, it has also revealed holds and reduced the difficulty of the climbing. Supercedes the old route Left Slab. On the left side of the slab climb the thin crack until you can move right to a rusty peg. Then climb straight up to a stainless steel peg. From here climb directly to the top.

  2. Tree Edge 28m, VS,4b
    Climb the arete just left of the trees in the centre of the slab.

  3. Central Tower 14m,M
    The right arete of the slab.

Bone Buttress

A further scramble westwards and over a 'col' will get you to this rather clean looking slab. The old route The Right Slab (VS,4b D.Jones, R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 1958) has been superseded by more recent offerings.

  1. The Sorcerer 35m VS,4b
    Fine climbing up the centre of the slab. Start 5m left of the right arete. Ascend trending slightly right via a series of depressions that peter out at half-height. Continue up the slab above, finishing 2m right of the arete.

  2. Rowan Slab 35m VD
    The right arete of the slab.

West Slab

Further west from Bone Buttress is yet another slab with one recorded route.

  1. Unnamed VS,4b
    Climb the slab with a slightly awkward step left at about half height.

First Ascents

'Overhang Slab

  1. D.Jones, R.Owen 00.00.1959
  2. D.Jones, R.Owen 00.00.1959

Main Slab

  1. D.Jones, R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 00.00.1958
  2. D.Jones, R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 00.00.1958
  3. J.Aylward solo 14.08.1995
  4. J. Aylward solo (1995)
  5. A.Foster, D.Gregan 00.00.1985

Hidden Slab

  1. Tim Hoddy, Chris Wyatt and A. N. Other (Aug 2001)
  2. D.Jones, R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 00.00.1958
  3. J.Aylward solo 15.08.1995

Bone Buttress

  1. J.Aylward solo 15.08.1995
  2. J.Aylward solo 15.08.1995

West Slab

  1. C. Wyatt, Tim Hoddy 00.07.05
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