SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Trident Gully and Ridge

2010-08-04T15:43:05Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 419 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

1½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is is the deep inlet immediately east (right) of [[Block Buttress]]. Trident Ridge is just east again.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

Scramble down easy ridges to the east.

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Long Rib''' 27m M

The rib seperating [[Block Buttress]] and Trident Gully. A second pitch is available (''Continuation'' VD R.Corbett, D.Thomas 1961).

Inside the gully are some good routes. Jsut before the guidebook went to press, however, the sand level had altered
radically and unless it rises again, then the first two routes are probably several grades harder.

2. '''The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet''' 12m E2,5c *

Boldly gain the steep cracks on the left side of the west wall of the gully.

3. '''Ground Swell''' 15m E3,6a

This takes the centre of the white wall right of the previous route. Start at the foot of the ramp of ''West Pillar Corner''.
Climb sharp rock to twin undercuts at half-height. Tackle the wall above.

4. '''Sharma''' 15m E3,5c

This takes a line of cracks in the right side of the wall. Start as for ''West Pillar Corner''. Climb up to a spike, then
climb awkwardly over a bulge onto a steep wall. Climb rightwards then straight up.

5. '''West Pillar Corner''' 24m S,4a

This climbs the ramp running rightward up the left wall of the gully and finishes up the corner above.

6. '''Central Crack''' 24m VD

Just right of the ramp is a chimney. Climb the arete right of this and the broken crack in the wall above.

7. '''Meander''' 24m D

Start as for ''Central Crack'', climb up and right to the arete overlooking the gully. Follow the arete to the top.

8. '''Wriggler's Chimney''' 12m HS,5a ** ?

Climb the back of the chimney itself.

9. '''Kopf Out''' 12m HVS,5b

At the base of the arete where the gully gets very narrow is a short crack. Climb it and move rightwards to an obvious flake. Move right again and climb the centre of the steep wall. Using the back wall is cheating! (Supersedes ''Pillar Kopf'' J.Talbot 1964).

At the back of the gully is a smooth pillar in a gloomy recess.

10. '''Balm''' 12m VS,4c

The left edge of the pillar and the crack on the left.

11. '''Malm''' 12m VS,4c

The right edge of the pillar to the roof, move right to a ledge, then take the wall above.

12. '''Trident Wall''' 21m E1,5b *

Start at the centre of the concave right wall of the gully by a short water-worn groove. Climb up and left below
the bulges before breaking out onto the upper wall and thence to the top. It is possible to cut straight through the
bulges at the same grade.

13. '''South West Diedre''' 21m HS,4b

Climb the short groove on the seaward side of the right wall of the gully. Traverse easily along the flake to finish.

14. '''Pillar Crest''' 29m M

An easy pleasant scramble up the crest of the buttress on the right (east) of the gully.

=== Trident Ridge Pillar ===

The following routes lie on the east side of the ridge housing ''Trident Wall''. The left side of the wall is bounded by ''Pillar Crest''. Just right of this is a groove line and the start of the wall proper.

15. '''Pillar Groove''' 9m VD ?

Follow the groove or its right bounding side wall.

16. '''High And Mighty''' 15m E1,5b ?

Some 5m from the left (seaward) side of the east wall are two lines of weakness. Take the left one.

17. '''Weak and Flabby''' 15m E3,5c ?

The right-hand weakness.

About 15m right of ''Pillar Crest'', the wall enters a small narrow gully. A black bulge is obvious at about 6m.

18. '''Questions''' 14m HVS,4c ?

Climb the wall to short cracks just left of the black bulge. Swing left and up the wall on painful rock to the top.

19. '''Answers''' 14m VS,4b ?

Start at the gully entrance and climb the east wall of ''Trident Pillar'' easily for 3m or so. Move left to below the black
bulge. Swing across leftwards and pull up on enormous, painful holds to the top.

The next crag to the east (right) at sea level is Fourth Gully ([[Four Gullies]]). However above Trident Gully itself is [[Catacomb Gully]].

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1961

2. B.Disraeli, R.Cecil, A.Balfour 13.06.1878

3. M.Ward, M.Crocker 11.07.1987

4. M.Crocker, M.Ward 11.07.1987

5. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

6. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

7. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1961

8. N.Taylor solo 13.06.2003

9. A.Richardson, S.Doerr 00.00.1989

10. G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1980

11. J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1966

12. J.Talbot, M.Hicks 00.00.1969

13. SUMC 00.00.1967

14. J.Talbot 00.00.1961

15. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998

16. J.Harwood, R.High 16.11.1996

17. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998

19. J.Harwood, M.Ismail 08.08.1998

Block Buttress

2010-08-04T00:52:28Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 419 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

2 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

The return of decent rock, routes and descriptions. This is the impressive, conspicuous buttress at the seaward end
of the headland to the east of White Edge. Below and left of the highest point is a deep gully.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

Descend by scrambling down to the east.

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''South West Edge''' 60m M

The easy rib and scramble on the left of the gully on the south side of the buttress.

2. '''Piz''' 12m HS,4b

Climb the groove at the seaward end of the left (west) wall of the gully.

3. '''Kleine''' 12m VS,4c

A poorly protected line up the wall right of ''Piz'' and left of ''Thing''.

4. '''Thing''' 21m HVS,5a

Follow the waterworn groove 7m right of ''Piz'' and just left of the seaweed covered rock. Take the easier corner
above to finish.

5. '''Funny Fish In A Hole''' 21m E1,5c

The steep crackline right of ''Thing''.

6. '''Cima''' 36m E1,5b ?

A large rockfall has removed the original upper part of this route. There used to be a massive overhang in place
at the top! Start at the foot of the left of two cracks at the back of the gully. Climb the crack via a bulge to a recess
(belay possible), step right and climb a rib to gain a corner. The old route used to finish direct, but it has only been
done since the rockfall by finishing out left as for ''Thing''.

7. '''Kaiser''' 39m HVS,5a,4a **

# 15m As for ''Cima'' to the recess.
# 24m Step right onto a rib, then into the corner on the right. Follow this until it is possible to gain a traverse line on the right wall. Follow it to finish up the arete.

8. '''The Limping Limpet''' 31m E5,6a ?

A bold undertaking between ''Kaiser'' and ''Power Trap''. From the niche of ''Power Trap'', reach over the bulge to a
good hold in the base of a faint runnel. Pull up and climb directly to the traverse of ''Kaiser''. Finish up ''Power Trap''.

9. '''Power Trap''' 36m E3,5c ***

Fierce, exposed climbing. A determined approach will work wonders at the start. Start at a steep crack system
in the right wall of the gully. Climb the crack past a niche, then take a diagonal line leftwards, avoiding the arete,
to finish just left of the arete.

10. '''South Pillar Rib''' 36m HS,4a **
This takes the narrow righthand pillar of the gully. Variations are possible. Climb the left-hand groove and gain the
pillar front. Continue up the pillar until it narrows to an arete. Finish rightwards taking care with the rock.

To the right of these routes is a cave at half-height.

11. '''Burn The Boss''' 24m HVS,5a

Start in the cave. Move up the left rib of the cave and enter a crack. Follow it to the top as for ''South Buttress''.

12. '''South Buttress''' 50m S

A poor route. Take a line right of a cave at half-height to a narrow rib, then trend leftwards to reach the centre of
the wall above the cave. Finish direct.

13. '''Deep Crack''' 50m HS

Climb the deep crack right of ''South Buttress'' to join it.

14. '''Big Step''' 50m D

The fissure to the right of ''Deep Crack''.

On the upper east face of [[Block Buttress]], overlooking [[Trident Gully]], is a pair of cracks near the seaward edge.

15. '''Picket Line''' 18m E1,5b

Climb to the cracks and follow them to the top. This route is best gained via ''The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet'' ([[Trident Gully]]).

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

2. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

3. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

5. N.Taylor 02.08.1997

6. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

7. R.Corbett, D.Jones 00.00.1962

8. M.Crocker, M.Ward 01.07.1987

9. E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 2pt 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Jones 00.00.1970

10. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

11. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 13.02.1983

12. SUMC 00.00.1969

13. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

14. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

15. G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1984

Talk:Molar Wall and White Edge

2010-08-03T16:11:57Z

Tom Dudley: Created page with "Might split these into 2 pages, not sure.. --~~~~"

Might split these into 2 pages, not sure.. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 17:11, 3 August 2010 (BST)

Molar Wall and White Edge

2010-08-03T16:11:17Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 418 872'''

[[Image:Molar Wall and White Edge.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Molar Wall and White Edge]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

White Edge is non-tidal. Molar Wall 2½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is the uninispiring area of rock 100m east of the [[Cathedral Wall]] Area. White Edge is the obvious white ridge set
up above the sea and Molar Wall is the long, low, lower wall sticking out of the fishing boat bobbing sea. Which is not
black. Unless there has been a serious accident in Swansea.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

Scramble down gullies (well) to the west or east.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Molar Wall West ===

The small but clean west-facing facet.
Rampe (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1966) and South West Corner (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1966) could not be located for the
guidebook.

1. '''Don't Blow It''' 10m E2,6a ?

At the landward end of the inlet facing the ''Bochlwyd'' facet is a cave. Start from the non-tidal platform, immediately
right of the cave. Boulder up to the obvious projecting flat hold. Proceed direct on pockets and then jugs to broken
ground. Walk off right.

2. '''Bochlwyd''' 12m HVS,5a

Take the thin, narrow, leftward-trending crack on the left facet of the west-facing face.

3. '''He Man''' 12m E2,5c

Climb the crack-seamed wall via a straight line directly up the middle of the centre.

4. '''Muscle Man''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the slab 3m right of ''He Man'', then up the leaning overhanging wall and overlap via a long, tall reach.

5. '''Christa''' 13m HS,4b

Start right at the right side of the wall where rocks project outwards protruding into the sandy sand. Climb left of
a corner to below an overhang, cross it rightwards or, much harder, leftwards (5b).

=== South Face ===

6. '''Straight Crack''' 9m VD

Where the wall projects out south west, is a narrow recessed wall with a wide, deep, thin, narrow crack.

On the south face are two easy scrambling routes, Right and Left Buttress (J.Talbot, 1963).

7. '''Recessed Wall''' 15m VD

The wall right of ''Straight Crack''.

8. '''Sharp Corner''' 12m D

The corner right again.

In the centre of the South facet is a recess with a cave at the back and a square-cut chimney groove to its right.

9. '''Blocky Corner''' 12m VD

This takes left-corner of the ''Curving Corner'' feature.

10. '''Curving Corner''' 12m HVS,5a

Fun. Climb the steep, smooth corner left of the cave until it is possible to gain the arete on the right.

11. '''Cavity Edge''' 15m D

The chimney to the right of ''Curving Corner''.

12. '''Cavity Crack''' 15m S

Tthe square-cut groove right of the cave, or move left at 7m up the left edge (Narrow Rib S, J.Talbot 1963)

13. '''Deception Crack''' 6m S

Start at an easy recessed slab and climb a vertical narrow crack.

14. '''Two Step Wall''' 13m HS,4b

Start on the right side of the wall and strenuously climb an overhang to a ledge. Climb the second overhanging
section by a committing move right to a slippery ledge, then leftwards to the top.

=== Molar Wall East ===

The wall to the east.

15. '''Thrutch''' 7m HS,4b

Based on a definite concavity 4m before ''Hairline''. Climb to the overhang direct and then up to the upper ledges.

16. '''Hairline''' 7m S

Follow the smooth wall to where a cleft is formed by a pinnacle. Climb a shallow blind Captain Cat on the left
wall just before entering the cleft.

17. '''First Corner''' 7m S

The first corner in the upper wall left from ''Thrutch''. Gain it by the smooth wall below.

18. '''Second Corner''' 9m S

The corner just left of ''First Corner''.

19. '''Twist''' 12m HS,4a

Climb ''Second Corner'' to the bulge, then traverse left to reach another corner. Follow this to the top.

20. '''Third Corner''' 9m S

Climb 4m left of ''Second Corner'', bearing left at the top.

Fall Bay to Mewslade

2010-08-03T15:54:57Z

Tom Dudley: /* Cathedral Wall Area */

[[Image:Fall Bay 1.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle and Fall Bay]]
__NOTOC__

'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
¾ hour either side of low water to non-tidal. See individual sections.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Fall Bay 3.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]
A beautiful and popular area, providing the greatest concentration of the best traditional routes on Gower and some of its most spectacular. It is possibly the best area for a first visit to Gower. The area lies between Fall Bay in the west and Mewslade Bay in the east. It contains a variety of gullies and buttresses, with climbing of all grades with both nontidal and very tidal areas which are individually noted. If a little forethought is used, it is not too difficult to visit a couple of crags to prevent an overly tide-determined visit, for example by combining trips to [[King Wall]] and [[Lewes Castle]], or [[Jacky’s Tor]] and [[Catacomb Gully]].

At low water it is possible to walk all the way round the lower cliffs for about an hour either side of low water, the critical cut off point being [[Jacky’s Tor]]. It is possible to walk round the areas either side of [[Jacky’s Tor]] for about 2 hours either side of low water. On a first visit it is best to follow the crag familarisation tour set out below. There are three very popular areas, [[King Wall]] and [[Lewes Castle]], containing easy and middle grade routes respectively and the very impressive [[Yellow Wall]].

The crags of [[Grey Wall]], [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]] and [[Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade#Rolly Bottom Buttress|Rolly Bottom Buttress]] are described out of sequence with the lower crags at the end of the section, to aid the flow of the text.

== ACCESS ==
There are two possible approaches depending on which end of the area one wishes to visit:

'''1. Fall Bay Approach'''

This is the best approach for cliffs to the west of [[Jacky’s Tor]] ([[King Wall]] to [[Jacky’s Tor]]). Drive to the end of the B4247
at Rhossili and use the (paying) car park in the farmer’s field by the Worms Head Inn (GR415881). Walk down to the
end of the first field, cross the fence and turn left. Continue across two fields to a track which leads to a lane, turn right
into the lane and take the first opening on the left. Follow a track with a hedge on the left and at its end turn right into
another field. Walk a short distance keeping a hedge to the right, cross a stile and turn left. Follow the edge of the field,
cross the stile and descend an iron ladder. [[Lewes Castle]] is immediately in front on the left 10 minutes from the car
park. Sea level crags can be gained by contouring round [[Lewes Castle]] at this level and walking down the platform
above [[King Wall]] to reach Giant’s Cave. [[King Wall]] is to the west (right when facing out to sea), the other crags to the
east. Alternatively from the iron ladder, drop down to the beach and follow the coast round from the west (left) end of
[[King Wall]].

'''2. Mewslade Bay Approach'''

This is the best approach for the upper cliffs to the east of [[Jacky’s Tor]] (as far as [[Grey Wall]]) and probably for the Tor
itself. Turn left (south) off the B4247 at Pitton to Pitton Farm (GR 427877). Car parking is available (honesty box).
Strike left from the entrance to the car park. Walk a short distance down a farm track then bear right past farm buildings
to gain the path leading through a narrow valley to the East end of Mewslade Bay (7 mins walk).
[[Image:Fall Bay 4.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]

== DESCENTS ==
[[Image:Fall Bay 5.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]
Described by crag.

== CRAG FAMILIARISATION ==
'''[[Map of Fall Bay to Mewslade Bay]]'''
[[Image:Fallbay-mewslade map.png|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay to Mewslade Bay crag map]]

The following tour may be useful.

Looking east just before descending the iron ladder described in the Fall Bay approach, some prominent spikes of rock can be seen some distance away. This is on the opposite side of [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]] from the recorded routes. The main tour starts on Fall Bay Beach, no more than 1 hour before low water. Start heading eastwards (rightward if looking back to land from the sea). The first sea level crag is the long, 25m high King Wall, above which is the obvious non-tidal crag of [[Lewes Castle]].

Continuing east, where [[King Wall]] runs down into the sea, is a very obvious square-cut 25m high cave, [[Giant’s Cave]]. To the east the crags become broken and a long spur runs out to sea. Running straight up from this spur is [[Devils’ Truck]].

Carefully traverse down and right across broken rock (behind which is High Chimney Gully) to gain a wide sandy beach, behind which is a cove full of huge boulders. This is [[Great Boulder Cove]] and the huge wall on its left (west side) is [[Yellow Wall]]. On the other side of this is Eyeball Wall. The small steeply overhung wall south (left) of [[Yellow Wall]] is [[Hairy Dog Wall]] and between this and [[Yellow Wall]] is [[Little Block]].

On the other side of [[Great Boulder Cove]] is [[Jacky’s Tor]], a prominent narrow rectangular headland that blocks further vision. Beyond the toe of this is a steep incut gully, containing some steep cracks in its left (west) wall. This is [[Cathedral Wall]], the next butress is [[The Pulpit]].
Just to the east, the way appears to be blocked by a long low tongue of rock running out to sea. This is [[The Aisle]]. At the north (landward) end of [[The Aisle]] is a narrow chasm which passes behind. A roofless cave behind the chasm contains the route ''Treasure''.

On the far (east) side of [[The Aisle]] the beach opens up again and after about 50m there is a high, narrow pillar leading up into the land. This is ''White Edge'', below which is the unimpressive looking [[Molar Wall]]. The next headland east, which contains a deep gully on its east is [[Block Buttress]], bounded on its east by [[Trident Gully]]. Beyond [[Trident Gully]] the rock gradually decreases in height passing by Fourth, Third, Second and First Gully. The recess above these is [[Catacomb Gully]].

Mewslade Bay has now been reached and the rock tails off to the access path. The huge headland to the east is [[Thurba Head]]. Walk up from the beach to the higher level crags and strike back west. The first unimpressive wall encountered is [[Grey Wall]]. After some time the pinnacles refered to at the start of the tour are encountered, to the east of which is [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]]. On the far side of this the immediate way is barred by Great Boulder Cove, from where Yellow Wall can be seen over on the west. The path now skirts back above the crags to the iron ladder initially encountered.

Now go and climb!

== THE CRAGS ==

A topo version of selected climbs and a good photographic record of the area can be found on the following link:

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=162

=== [[King Wall]] ===
=== [[Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)]] ===
=== [[Giant's Cave]] ===
=== [[Devil's Truck Area]] ===
=== [[Hairy Dog Wall]] ===
=== [[Great Boulder Cove]] ===
=== [[Little Block]] ===
=== [[Yellow Wall]] ===
=== [[Conglomerate Cliff]] ===
=== [[Eyeball Wall]] ===
=== [[Jacky's Tor]] ===
=== [[Cathedral Wall]] ===

=== [[The Pulpit]] ===
=== [[The Prows]] ===
=== [[The Aisle]] ===
=== [[Molar Wall and White Edge]] ===
=== [[Block Buttress]] ===
=== [[Trident Gully and Ridge]] ===
=== [[Catacomb Gully]] ===
=== [[Four Gullies]] ===

The Aisle

2010-08-03T15:53:55Z

Tom Dudley: /* THE ROUTES */

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is the obvious low promontory running out to sea between the [[Cathedral Wall]] and Gullys areas. It is detached
from the mainland and it is possible to pass behind it by a narrow gully.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

Descent is by scrambling down either side.

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''North Edge''' 12m VS,4c

The arete on the north (landward) end of the Aisle.

2. '''North Edge Direct''' E1 5a 12m

''North Edge'', but climbed direct with a nice technical sequence of layaways to land a cheval on a notch just below more shattered easy ground.

3. '''Black Corner''' 12m D

The groove 5m right of ''North Edge''.

4. '''Twin Corner Left''' 12m D

The left-hand of two grooves, 5m to the right of ''Black Corner''.

5. '''Twin Corner Right''' 12m VD

The right-hand groove.

Behind [[The Aisle]] is a hole. Go through this to reach the next routes. They can also be accessed by abseil.

6. '''Barefoot Acrobat''' HS 4b 10m

Above the back side of the arch over the cave is a steep juggy arete (about 10m left of Sump it Up) leading up to a groove. Strenuous but all on good holds and perfect rock.

7. '''Sump It Up''' 12m E1,5c ?

On the left (west) wall is a grey left-facing hanging corner. Gain it via easy flakes below and make a delicate
move up into it to exit.

8. '''Boom Boom Boris''' 15m E4,6b

A hard and bold pitch. On the right wall, start 3m left of ''Treasure''. Climb the wall on pockets to an overhang. Move
out left and finish, crux.

9. '''Treasure''' 15m E3,5c *

The obvious thin crack in the east wall of the hole.

10. '''Zoom, Zoom, Doris''' 12m E4,6a ?

The wall right of ''Treasure''. Pull right into a short right facing corner 3m right of ''Treasure''. Move up over the roof
and finish up the wall above.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

2. Nick Taylor 29.8.04

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

6. Nick Taylor 29.8.04

7. M.Crocker 05.12.1998

8. A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986

9. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 14.04.1984

10. M.Crocker 05.12.1998

The Aisle

2010-08-03T15:45:16Z

Tom Dudley:

The Prows

2010-08-03T14:54:04Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

These are the rocky fins to the right (east) of [[The Pulpit]].

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Back Chimney''' 12m M

The chimney separating the left-hand prow from the ''Pulpit''.

2. '''South West Corner''' 12m S

Climbs the right side of the right wall of ''Back Chimney''.

3. '''Flying Buttress''' 16m M

Climbs the front (seaward) face of the left prow. A route that spawned at least two less famous imitations.

4. '''Right Edge''' 12m M

The wall to the right of ''Flying Buttress''.

5. '''Divide''' 12m M

The chimney separating the two prows.

6. '''Cheat''' 13m VD

Start up ''Divide'', but move out and climb the wall to the right.

7. '''Central Crack''' 12m S

The front of the right-hand prow.

8. '''Right Curving Crack''' 8m M

The crack to the right of ''Central Crack''.

9. '''The Old Man''' 6m HS,4c

A few metres to the right is a finlike feature. Climb its seaward face.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

2. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

8. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

9. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

The Pulpit

2010-08-03T14:49:43Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Right (east) of Cathedral Gully is a protruding buttress, split left of centre by an easy descent chimney. Some 10m
to the right is a more prominent chimney (''Pulpit Fissure''). There are two very easy scrambles, ''Magog'' (J.Talbot 1963)
and ''Chink'' (J.Talbot 1963) which take indistinct lines up the south face of the buttress, but the only independent route
is ''Gog''.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Gog''' 12m M

The seaward face of the buttress.

2. '''Cleft''' 12m M

The cleft and groove right of the south face of the buttress.

3. '''Indefinite''' 10m D

The left side-wall of the prominent chimney of ''Pulpit Fissure''.

4. '''Pulpit Fissure''' 10m D

The obvious chimney.

5. '''Schusselkar''' 15m VS,4c

Start up ''Pulpit Fissure'', but move right as soon as possible to gain and finish up the wall to the right.

To the right is another recessed inlet.

6. '''Yus Yus''' 15m E2,5b * ?

The arete left of smooth.

7. '''Smoove''' 15m VS,4c

This climbs the smooth overhanging groove in the seaward end of the left wall of the recess. Climb the groove
and pull out right on good holds to a ledge below another groove capped by an overhang. Take this and exit left.

8. '''Gold Kappel''' 18m VS,4c

As for Smoove, then move right over a smooth bulge to a ledge. Climb the right edge of the groove to the top.

9. '''Canalog''' 15m VS,4c

Climb the steep wall left of the prominent black hole right of ''Smoove''.

10. '''The Beak''' 18m VD
Gain the black hole and traverse leftwards on tachyons to a ledge below the upper groove of ''Smoove'', now
climb the steep wall on the left.

11. '''Checkmate''' 13m VS,4b

As for ''The Beak'' to the hole, then climb the corner above.

12. '''Font''' 13m VS,4b

As for ''Checkmate'' to the upper corner, then move right and climb the narrow pillar.

There are two old routes ''Headstone'' (J.Talbot 1963) and ''Chalice'' (J.Talbot 1963) which cover similar ground to the
routes described above.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

4. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962

5. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

6. N.Taylor 02.08.1997

7. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962

8. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

9. R.Corbett, P.Perkins 00.00.1962

10. J.Talbot, D.Jones 00.00.1961

11. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

12. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

Talk:Template Page

2010-08-03T14:12:38Z

Tom Dudley:

Hey! This is good Alan! Only just seen it! :) --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:39, 10 April 2009 (UTC)

Takes some of the pain away (if people use it it will enable easy transition from wiki to guidebook as all formatting will be the same).--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 11:07, 10 April 2009 (UTC)

What do you guys think of having first ascents as a level 2 heading? I know it falls under routes, but on some pages its quite a lot of text and you can then give separate buttresses level 3 headings (level 4 don't exist do they?). --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 13:39, 3 August 2010 (BST)

:Another idea..do we have support for collapsible tables? I can't seem to get them working with any of the markup I found, I guess you haven't added them (http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Collapsible_tables). I'm thinking that most people probably aren't that interested in the FAs, so if we had it at the bottom of the page in a collapsible table which was collapsed by default then they could view it if they wanted to. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 15:12, 3 August 2010 (BST)

Fall Bay to Mewslade

2010-08-03T13:53:00Z

Tom Dudley:

[[Image:Fall Bay 1.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle and Fall Bay]]
__NOTOC__

'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
¾ hour either side of low water to non-tidal. See individual sections.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Fall Bay 3.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]
A beautiful and popular area, providing the greatest concentration of the best traditional routes on Gower and some of its most spectacular. It is possibly the best area for a first visit to Gower. The area lies between Fall Bay in the west and Mewslade Bay in the east. It contains a variety of gullies and buttresses, with climbing of all grades with both nontidal and very tidal areas which are individually noted. If a little forethought is used, it is not too difficult to visit a couple of crags to prevent an overly tide-determined visit, for example by combining trips to [[King Wall]] and [[Lewes Castle]], or [[Jacky’s Tor]] and [[Catacomb Gully]].

At low water it is possible to walk all the way round the lower cliffs for about an hour either side of low water, the critical cut off point being [[Jacky’s Tor]]. It is possible to walk round the areas either side of [[Jacky’s Tor]] for about 2 hours either side of low water. On a first visit it is best to follow the crag familarisation tour set out below. There are three very popular areas, [[King Wall]] and [[Lewes Castle]], containing easy and middle grade routes respectively and the very impressive [[Yellow Wall]].

The crags of [[Grey Wall]], [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]] and [[Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade#Rolly Bottom Buttress|Rolly Bottom Buttress]] are described out of sequence with the lower crags at the end of the section, to aid the flow of the text.

== ACCESS ==
There are two possible approaches depending on which end of the area one wishes to visit:

'''1. Fall Bay Approach'''

This is the best approach for cliffs to the west of [[Jacky’s Tor]] ([[King Wall]] to [[Jacky’s Tor]]). Drive to the end of the B4247
at Rhossili and use the (paying) car park in the farmer’s field by the Worms Head Inn (GR415881). Walk down to the
end of the first field, cross the fence and turn left. Continue across two fields to a track which leads to a lane, turn right
into the lane and take the first opening on the left. Follow a track with a hedge on the left and at its end turn right into
another field. Walk a short distance keeping a hedge to the right, cross a stile and turn left. Follow the edge of the field,
cross the stile and descend an iron ladder. [[Lewes Castle]] is immediately in front on the left 10 minutes from the car
park. Sea level crags can be gained by contouring round [[Lewes Castle]] at this level and walking down the platform
above [[King Wall]] to reach Giant’s Cave. [[King Wall]] is to the west (right when facing out to sea), the other crags to the
east. Alternatively from the iron ladder, drop down to the beach and follow the coast round from the west (left) end of
[[King Wall]].

'''2. Mewslade Bay Approach'''

This is the best approach for the upper cliffs to the east of [[Jacky’s Tor]] (as far as [[Grey Wall]]) and probably for the Tor
itself. Turn left (south) off the B4247 at Pitton to Pitton Farm (GR 427877). Car parking is available (honesty box).
Strike left from the entrance to the car park. Walk a short distance down a farm track then bear right past farm buildings
to gain the path leading through a narrow valley to the East end of Mewslade Bay (7 mins walk).
[[Image:Fall Bay 4.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]

== DESCENTS ==
[[Image:Fall Bay 5.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay]]
Described by crag.

== CRAG FAMILIARISATION ==
'''[[Map of Fall Bay to Mewslade Bay]]'''
[[Image:Fallbay-mewslade map.png|500px|thumb|right|Fall Bay to Mewslade Bay crag map]]

The following tour may be useful.

Looking east just before descending the iron ladder described in the Fall Bay approach, some prominent spikes of rock can be seen some distance away. This is on the opposite side of [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]] from the recorded routes. The main tour starts on Fall Bay Beach, no more than 1 hour before low water. Start heading eastwards (rightward if looking back to land from the sea). The first sea level crag is the long, 25m high King Wall, above which is the obvious non-tidal crag of [[Lewes Castle]].

Continuing east, where [[King Wall]] runs down into the sea, is a very obvious square-cut 25m high cave, [[Giant’s Cave]]. To the east the crags become broken and a long spur runs out to sea. Running straight up from this spur is [[Devils’ Truck]].

Carefully traverse down and right across broken rock (behind which is High Chimney Gully) to gain a wide sandy beach, behind which is a cove full of huge boulders. This is [[Great Boulder Cove]] and the huge wall on its left (west side) is [[Yellow Wall]]. On the other side of this is Eyeball Wall. The small steeply overhung wall south (left) of [[Yellow Wall]] is [[Hairy Dog Wall]] and between this and [[Yellow Wall]] is [[Little Block]].

On the other side of [[Great Boulder Cove]] is [[Jacky’s Tor]], a prominent narrow rectangular headland that blocks further vision. Beyond the toe of this is a steep incut gully, containing some steep cracks in its left (west) wall. This is [[Cathedral Wall]], the next butress is [[The Pulpit]].
Just to the east, the way appears to be blocked by a long low tongue of rock running out to sea. This is [[The Aisle]]. At the north (landward) end of [[The Aisle]] is a narrow chasm which passes behind. A roofless cave behind the chasm contains the route ''Treasure''.

On the far (east) side of [[The Aisle]] the beach opens up again and after about 50m there is a high, narrow pillar leading up into the land. This is ''White Edge'', below which is the unimpressive looking [[Molar Wall]]. The next headland east, which contains a deep gully on its east is [[Block Buttress]], bounded on its east by [[Trident Gully]]. Beyond [[Trident Gully]] the rock gradually decreases in height passing by Fourth, Third, Second and First Gully. The recess above these is [[Catacomb Gully]].

Mewslade Bay has now been reached and the rock tails off to the access path. The huge headland to the east is [[Thurba Head]]. Walk up from the beach to the higher level crags and strike back west. The first unimpressive wall encountered is [[Grey Wall]]. After some time the pinnacles refered to at the start of the tour are encountered, to the east of which is [[Upper Jacky’s Tor]]. On the far side of this the immediate way is barred by Great Boulder Cove, from where Yellow Wall can be seen over on the west. The path now skirts back above the crags to the iron ladder initially encountered.

Now go and climb!

== THE CRAGS ==

A topo version of selected climbs and a good photographic record of the area can be found on the following link:

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=162

=== [[King Wall]] ===
=== [[Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)]] ===
=== [[Giant's Cave]] ===
=== [[Devil's Truck Area]] ===
=== [[Hairy Dog Wall]] ===
=== [[Great Boulder Cove]] ===
=== [[Little Block]] ===
=== [[Yellow Wall]] ===
=== [[Conglomerate Cliff]] ===
=== [[Eyeball Wall]] ===
=== [[Jacky's Tor]] ===
=== [[Cathedral Wall Area]] ===
=== [[The Pulpit]] ===
=== [[The Prows]] ===
=== [[The Aisle]] ===
=== [[Molar Wall and White Edge]] ===
=== [[Block Buttress]] ===
=== [[Trident Gully and Ridge]] ===
=== [[Catacomb Gully]] ===
=== [[Four Gullies]] ===

File:Fallbay-mewslade map.png

2010-08-03T13:51:44Z

Tom Dudley: uploaded a new version of "File:Fallbay-mewslade map.png": cropped it.

File:Fallbay-mewslade map.png

2010-08-03T13:40:05Z

Tom Dudley:

Gower

2010-08-03T13:06:02Z

Tom Dudley:

[[Image:Gower.png|450px|center|alt=Contents|link=]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:500px; float:right; height:200px" border="1"
|-
! Gower Map
|-
|
<googlemap lat="51.610289" lon="-4.15191" zoom="11" width="500" height="480" scale="yes" controls="large"
overview="yes" scrollwheel="zoom"
icons="http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/icons/{label}.png"
icon="http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/icons/blue.png"
version="0.9">






<!-- =================================== ->
(winter) 51.849167, -3.681627
[[Winter Climbs#The Camarthen Van|Joe's Waterfall]]

(winter) 51.879707, -3.739869
[[Winter Climbs#The Camarthen Van|Dave's Fault]]

</googlemap>
|}
{{#tree:id=ngowertree|
'''North Gower'''

*'''[[Tor Gro]]'''
**[[Tor Gro#Overhang Slab|Overhang Slab]]
**[[Tor Gro#Main Slab|Main Slab]]
**[[Tor Gro#Hidden Slab|Hidden Slab]]
**[[Tor Gro#Bone Buttress|Bone Buttress]]

*'''[[North Hill Tor]]'''
**[[North Hill Tor#Main Slab|Main Slab]]
**[[North Hill Tor#West Recessed Slab|West Recessed Slab]]

*'''[[Cwm Ivy Tor]]'''

*'''[[Blue Pool Area]]'''
**[[Blue Pool Area#Danny's Buttress|Danny's Buttress]]
**[[Blue Pool Area#Living Wall|Living Wall]]

*'''[[Burry Holms]]'''
**[[Burry Holmes#Southern Area|Southern Area]]
**[[Burry Holmes#The Littlejohn Legacy Area|The Littlejohn Legacy Area]]
**[[Burry Holmes#Pincer Cove|Pincer Cove]]
}}

{{#tree:id=gowertree|

'''South Gower'''

*'''[[Rhossili]]'''
**[[Rhossili#Upper_Crags|Upper Crags]]
***[[Rhossili#Trial_Wall|Trial Wall]]
***[[Rhossili#The_Sense_Of_Adventure_Area|The Sense of Adventure Area]]
***[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy_Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]
***[[Rhossili#Black_Buttress|Black Buttress]]
***[[Rhossili#Silent_Fright_Butress|Silent Fright Buttress]]
**[[Rhossili#Sea_Level_Crags|Sea Level Crags]]
***[[Rhossili#Sheepbone_Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]
***[[Rhossili#Terrace_Wall|Terrace Wall]]
***[[Rhossili#Sinister_Sister_Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]
***[[Rhossili#Evening Wall|Evening Wall]]
***[[Rhossili#Yellow Zawn|Yellow Zawn]]
***[[Rhossili#The Platform Area|The Platform Area]]
***[[Rhossili#Poser Buttress|Poser Buttress]]
***[[Rhossili#Rhossili Bay|Rhossili Bay]]
***[[Rhossili#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]]
*'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''
**[[King Wall]]
**[[Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)]]
**[[Giant's Cave]]
**[[Devil's Truck Area]]
**[[Hairy Dog Wall]]
**[[Great Boulder Cove]]
**[[Little Block]]
**[[Yellow Wall]]
**[[Conglomerate Cliff]]
**[[Eyeball Wall]]
**[[Jacky's Tor]]
**[[Cathedral Wall]]
**[[The Pulpit]]
**[[The Prows]]
**[[The Aisle]]
**[[Molar Wall and White Edge]]
**[[Block Buttress]]
**[[Trident Gully and Ridge]]
**[[Catacomb Gully]]
**[[Four Gullies]]

*'''[[Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade]]'''
**[[Upper_Crags_Fall_Bay_To_Mewslade#Upper_Jacky's_Tor|Upper Jacky's Tor]]
**[[Upper_Crags_Fall_Bay_To_Mewslade#Rolly_Bottom_Butress|Rolly Bottom Buttress]]
**[[Upper_Crags_Fall_Bay_To_Mewslade#Grey_Wall|Grey Wall]]

*'''[[Thurba Head]]'''
**[[Thurba Head#Thurba West|Thurba West]]
**[[Thurba Head#Thurba Head|Thurba Head]]
***[[Thurba Head#East Section|East Section]]
***[[Thurba Head#Front Face|Front Face]]
**[[Thurba Head#Thurba East|Thurba East]]

*'''[[Hollow Top To Port Eynon]]'''
**[[Rams Grove Area]]
**[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn]]
**[[Deborah's Overhang Area]]
**[[Paviland and Juniper Wall]]
***[[Stallion Cove (Paviland Wild West)|Stallion Cove (Paviland Wild West)]]
***[[Paviland Way Out West (Quarter Dome Slabs)|Paviland Way Out West (Quarter Dome Slabs)]]
***[[Paviland Far Far West|Paviland Far Far West]]
***[[Paviland Far West|Paviland Far West]]
***[[Paviland Main Cliff|Paviland Main Cliff]]
***[[Below East Gully Groove|Below East Gully Groove]]
***[[Liberty Zawn|Liberty Zawn]]
***[[Juniper Wall|Juniper Wall]]
***[[Eos Zawn|Eos Zawn]]

*'''[[Oxwich]]'''
**[[Oxwich Point]]
**[[Oxwich Bay (Crag Ox)]]
**[[Crawley Woods Rocks]]

*'''The Three Tors'''
**[[West Tor]]
***[[West Tor#Sea Level Slab|Sea Level Slab]]
***[[West Tor#Main Slab|Main Slab]]
**[[Little Tor]]
***[[Little Tor#Little Star Wall|Little Star Wall]]
**[[Great Tor proper]]
***[[Great Tor proper#Great Tor Upper Tier|Great Tor Upper Tier]]
***[[Great Tor proper#The Col Routes|The Col Routes]]
***[[Great Tor proper#East Ridge Area|East Ridge Area]]
***[[Great Tor proper#Westwards from the Col|West Wards from the Col]]
***[[Great Tor proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|Great Tor Lower Tier]]
**[[Great Tor East]]
***[[Great Tor East#Shallow Cut|shallow Cut]]
***[[Great Tor East#Deep Cut|Deep Cut]]
***[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]]
***[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall East Facet|Odin's Wall East Facet]]
****[[Great Tor East#Second Pillar|Second Pillar]]
****[[Great Tor East#Second Corner|Second Corner]]
****[[Great Tor East#The South Wall|The South Wall]]
***[[Great Tor East#First Corner|First Corner]]
***[[Great Tor East#South Wall|South Wall]]
***[[Great Tor East#Ramp Zawn|Ramp Zawn]]

*'''[[Three Cliffs And Pobbles Bays]]'''
**[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs]]
**[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Pobbles_Bay_West|Pobbles Bay West]]
**[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Pobbles_Bay_East|Pobbles Bay East]]
***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Cave_Section|Cave Section]]
***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#East_Wall|East Wall]]
***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner|Scoop Corner]]

*'''[[Shire Combe To Watch House East]]''' [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png]]
**[[Shire Combe Buttress and West Slab]]
**[[Anemone Wall]]
**[[White Cove]]
**[[Ravens Cliff Gully]]
**[[White Edge]]
**[[Watch House Crag]]
**[[West Promontory Corner]]
**[[Watch House East]]

*'''[[Foxhole Cove]]'''
**[[Foxhole]]
**[[Foxhole#Deep Cut (Dark Side of the Moon Zawn)|Deep Cut (Dark Side of the Moon Zawn)]]
**[[Foxhole#Wrinkle Slab|Wrinkle Slab]]
**[[Foxhole#Grey Wall|Grey Wall]]

*'''[[Heatherslade Bay]]'''
**[[Heatherslade Bay#Great Corner|Great Corner]]
**[[Heatherslade Bay#Headland Slab|Headland Slab]]
**[[Heatherslade Bay#Heatherslade Buttress|Heatherslade Buttress]]

*'''[[Minchin Hole to Hunts Bay]]
**[[Marble Arch]]
**[[Bowen's Parlour]]
**[[Spring Zawn]]
**[[Bosco's Den Area]]
***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Wall|Bpsco's Wall]]
***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Gulch|Bosco's Gulch]]
**[[Bucketland]]
**[[Quartz Corner]]

*'''[[Pennard And Graves End|Pennard and Gravesend]]'''
**[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|The Great Tower]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs|Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End Wall]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#Gravesend East|Gravesend East]]
**[[Pennard And Graves End#Gravesend Sea Cliff|Gravesend Sea Cliff]]

*'''[[Bantam Bay]]'''

*'''[[Pwll Du Bay]]'''
**[[Pwll Du Bay#Pwll Du Quarry|Pwll Du Quarry]]
**[[Pwll Du Bay#Pwll Du Buttress|Pwll Du Buttress]]

*'''[[Caswell Bay]]'''
**[[Caswell Bay#Far South Slab|Far South Slab]]
**[[Caswell Bay#Yellow Flecked Slab|Yellow Flecked Slab]]
**[[Caswell Bay#Great Slab|Great Slab]]

*'''[[Rams Tor Bays]]'''

*'''[[Rams Tor]]'''

*'''[[Mumbles Light House Cave]]'''

*'''[[Conservative Club Crag]] '''

*'''[[Barland Quarry]]'''
}}

{{#tree:id=bouldering tree|

'''Bouldering'''

*[[Bouldering]]
**[[Limeslade]]
**[[Mushrooms]]
**[[Rams Tor Bouldering]]
**[[Sewerpipe]]
**[[Rotherslade]]
**[[Caswell]]
**[[Pwll Du East]]
**[[Penard Shoreline]]
**[[Foxhole/Watchhouse ]]
**[[Russian Zawn]]
**[[Fall Bay]]

}}

__NOTOC__
__NOTITLE__

Caswell Beach East

2010-08-03T12:58:28Z

Tom Dudley: Redirected page to Caswell Bay

#REDIRECT [[Caswell Bay]]

Cathedral Wall

2010-08-03T12:56:00Z

Tom Dudley: moved Cathedral Wall Area to Cathedral Wall over redirect: am just going to have cathedral wall routes on this page, as we have other pages for the pulpit etc.

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS418872 '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

1½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

Natural crags = no bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Located in the sand below [[Upper Jacky's Tor]] are some good routes that start from the beach and rock pools.

== ACCESS ==

To the right (east) of [[Jacky's Tor]] are a number of prows and gullies. The most popular of these is [[Cathedral Wall]], the incut to the immediate east of the Tor. To the right is the blunt ridge of the 'The Pulpit' with another gully just right. Right (east) again are the small promontory of 'The Prows' and the area terminates at the obvious long low promontory of [[The Aisle]] which runs out to sea.

== DESCENTS ==

Scramble off to the right and down through the rocks to the beach.

== THE ROUTES ==

The following routes are described from left to right:

1. '''Prima 15m S'''

The corner at the left end of the steep left wall.

2. '''Hades 15m HS,4b'''

The crack 1m right of ''Prima''.

3. '''Kalk 18m S'''

Start up the prominent crack in the wall 3m right of ''Prima'', but move left as soon as possible and climb the centre of the wall.

4. '''Owch 15m HS,4a'''

The name says it all! As for ''Kalk'', but continue directly up the crack.

5. '''Dulfer 18m S,4a''' *

The bulging groove and crack 3m right of ''Owch''. Climb a steep wall on jugs to the groove, surmount a bulge, step left to a recess and follow the crack to the top.

6. '''Dolce Vita 18m HVS,4c'''

As for ''Dulfer'' to the bulge, then follow a steep and shallow groove up right. Climb the wall passing some spikes and finish slightly left.

7. '''Cyntaff 18m HVS,5a''' **

A certain amount of determination is needed to climb this living corner right of ''Dolce Vita''.

8. '''Faint White Hope 18m E3,6a ''' *

The boldness of this route will depend on the level of the sand which changes often. Start at a short groove in the right wall of ''Cyntaff''. Climb it to an overhang, make bold moves leftward and finish steeply up the wall above.

At the back of the gully are two obvious grooves at a higher level, reached by easy scrambling.

9. '''Adam 12m S,4a'''

The left-hand groove.

10. '''Kaos 12m VS,4c'''

From the foot of ''Eve'', move out left and climb the3 central rib direct.

11. '''Eve 12m S,4a'''

The right-hand groove.

12. '''Eva 12m VS,4c'''

The crack in the wall right of ''Eve''.

Notre Dame (J.Talbot 1963), The End (J.Talbot 1963), Mitre (J.Talbot 1963), Five Cracks (R.Corbett, P.Dyer 1961), Left Crack (J.Talbot 1963), Left Corner (J.Talbot 1963), and Steps (J.Talbot 1963) cover much of the same ground as routes already described.

=== First Ascents ===



1. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

2. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1962

4. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

5. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

6. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962

7. P.Dyer, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

8. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 21.12.1980

9. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

10. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962

11. R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962

12. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

Cathedral Wall

2010-08-03T12:44:33Z

Tom Dudley:

Talk:Template Page

2010-08-03T12:39:45Z

Tom Dudley:

Yellow Wall

2010-08-03T12:36:07Z

Tom Dudley: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Image:Bird_ban.png|right|thumb|''Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 August. Reason - Nesting Birds'' - Contact the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] (01792) 390636 for details of any early lifting]]
'''[[Gower]]'''
[[Image:Yellow Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Yellow Wall]]
'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 416 873'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

3 hours either side of low water (routes on the left) to non-tidal (routes on the right)

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is the rather obvious wall dominating the cove. The first easily identifiable feature is the square corner of Skylark.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''5 Minutes to Kill '''24m E3,6a

A vague line up the grooves left of ''Winter Warmer''. Climb up and leftwards to a good ledge, step right and climb the arete and wall to gain a sloping ramp. Climb the right wall past a large flake then follow poor rock to the top.

2. '''Winter Warmer '''24m E3,6a

Takes the shallow groove systems just left of the corner of ''Skylark''. Boulder out the bulge just left of ''Skylark'', via a crack, to a ledge. Climb right into a groove then back left to gain a left sloping ramp. Join ''Muppet Show'' to finish.

3. '''Skylark '''39m E2,5c *

Start below an overhang above which is a clean-cut corner. Climb to the overhang at 4m, move to its left end, then over it rightwards. Traverse rightwards into a clean-cut corner, climb it to a ledge, step up into a short groove, then climb the wall above to finish up a crack in the steep wall just left of the arete.

4. '''Enigma '''39m E4,6b **

As for ''Muppet Show'' to the horizontal break at 4m, then follow a line of undercuts up leftwards to an overhang. Climb through the small overhang via a thin crack, then move right into ''Muppet Show''. Continue straight up the bulging groove above until it blanks out. Traverse left to the arete on sloping holds and follow it delicately to the top. It is possible to gain the thin crack directly for a more direct outing.

5. '''Enigma Variation '''39m E5,6b *

The final bulging groove of ''Enigma'' is taken directly, PR. A belay at the base of the groove is advisable.

6. '''Muppet Show '''39m E1,5a *

A fine route. Climb a groove below a small jutting prow under the lowest line of overhangs, to the horizontal break at 4m. Climb leftwards to below the bulging groove, then traverse left to reach easy ground at the top of the corner of ''Skylark''. Either abseil off old peg runners and a block on the left, or finish up ''Skylark''.

7. '''Heroin '''49m E5,6a,6b,5b *

#24m Follow ''Enigma'' to a large ledge in the groove just left of the arete.
#12m Move right onto the wall, PR, swing onto the arete and climb the wall left of the arete (peg runner), then move back onto the arete which leads to a ledge, PB.
#12m Climb straight up the arete above. Exit left to finish.

8. '''Chasing the Dragon '''45m E8,6c **

#15m As for pitch one of ''Yellow Wall'' to gain a belay in the cave halfway up (thread belay).
#30m Move up and right as for ''Yellow Wall'', but at the base of the groove move left to the base of the wall and make a very long reach up for a jug (peg runner). Hard powerful moves up the wall (peg runner) gain the arete and finish of Heroin.

Currently reckoned to be the hardest trad route on the wiki.

9. '''Yellow Wall '''45m E3,5c,5c ***

Start beneath the most prominent groove in the centre-left of the wall beneath a triagular overhang.
#33m Climb the first groove to the overhang, move left to a possible belay in a cave. Move diagonally rightwards, PR, to the obvious corner. Climb stylishly or fight your way to a large ledge.
#12m Climb the leftward-leaning groove on the left side of the ledge. A bold start leads to slightly more secure climbing and the top.

10. '''Hard Liner '''45m E6,6b,5b **

A tiring and technical start leads to a wild excursion up the arete between ''Yellow Wall'' and ''Steam Train''. Start as for ''Steam Train''.
#33m Follow the groove of ''Steam Train'' to the roof. Continue direct up the overhanging grey groove (peg runner) and reach the main rising break (junction with ''Steam Train''). Pull into the groove of ''Steam Train'', then swing left into a bottomless groove. Climb the groove (peg runner) to gain a break above in the arete. Ignore the rightward escape and make two long moves up the final arete to the ''Yellow Wall'' belay ledge.
#12m Climb the cracks and flakes towards the right-hand side of the back wall to the top.

11. '''Steam Train '''45m E4,6a,5b **

This takes the narrow groove and crack right of ''Yellow Wall''. Start at a large boulder 1m right of ''Yellow Wall''.
#33m Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
#12m From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arete to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (''Transformer''). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.

12. '''Transformer''' 48m E3,6a,5c *** ?

The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of ''Yellow Wall'' beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
# 27m Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
# 21m Step right into a groove and follow this to the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.

13. '''Yellow Regeneration''' 51m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arete between ''Transformer'' and ''Holy Grail''. Start 6m right of ''Transformer''. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
# 27m Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
# 24m Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arete, PR. Climb the arete, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.

14. '''Man Of The Earth''' 40m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between ''Transformer'' and ''Yellow Regeneration''.
# 20m Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
# 20m Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR,
to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.

15. '''Skyhedral Wall''' 45m E6,6b *** ?

A long pitch, albeit with three good shakeouts. Medium Friends and large wires are useful. Start at a small cave
3m right of ''Yellow Regeneration''. Climb overhanging layback cracks, TR, PR, and swarm over a capping bulge
on the left to reach a handrail leading rightward to a good rest. Climb diagonally left, PR, to a niche with plentiful
jugs. Take a slim groove on the right to another niche, TR. Power over the bulge above, 2PRs and continue up
a thin left-facing groove to a horizontal break. Hand-traverse left and from a thin short crack, crank over a bulge,
PR, to a juggy rising break. Rockover into a shallow niche, reach a good break and bear left to finish at a small
left-facing groove. Since the first ascent, the pitch has sometimes split by taking a stance out right, reducing the
grade to E5.

16. '''Holy Grail''' 45m E2,5b ** ?

Not for those whose mothers smell of elderberries. More solid than it looks. This takes the broken corner formed
where ''Yellow Wall'' meets the shattered face at the back of the cove, to reach the prominent acute corner high up
on ''Yellow Wall''. Start at a jutting block below an overhang at 21m. Climb deviously leftward to gain a small ledge.
Move left to the corner and up to the overhang. Move left to gain the superb final corner and the top.

17. '''Gafaelwy''' 45m E2,5b,5c * ?

Start right of ''Holy Grail'', below a jutting block.
# 27m Gain the jutting block, then up and left to the corner crack and overhang on ''Holy Grail''. Go over this, then right to a stance below a wide chimney crack.
# 21m Step left and climb a thin crack via overhangs to the top.

18. '''Pilgrim''' 42m E1,5b,5b ???

# 27m As for ''Gafaelwy''.
# 15m Climb the obvious wide crack that trends right to the top.

19. '''Germany Calling''' 50m E3,5c,5b,5a * ?

The obvious right to left break at one-third height. Start as for ''Man Of The Earth''.
# 20m Traverse to a belay on ''Yellow Wall''.
# 18m Traverse to ''Muppet Show''.
# 12m Finish up ''Muppet Show''.

20. '''Transverse''' 30m E2,6a,5a ?

The traverse line below ''Germany Calling''.

# 21m Start as for ''Transformer''. Climb to the first break and move left to gain the traverse line which is followed to ''Skylark''. Belay.
# 9m Finish up ''Skylark'' or continue traversing past ''Winter Warmer'' and down left to a ledge. Climb a thin crack to a sloping stance and the top.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===



1. A.Sharp, R.Powles 26.10.1987

2. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1985

3. C.King, S.Monks 00.10.1978

4. J.Talbot, R.Corbett - Red Slab 00.00.1962 FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis, C.Curle 28.11.1982 A.American, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1985

5. M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987

6. A.Sharp 00.00.1976 P.Littlejohn, C.King - Direct Finish 00.00.1977

7. M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.08.1986

8. A.Berry 02.09.1999

9. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962 FFA P.Littlejohn, A.Houghton 00.02.1972

10. M.Crocker 05.10.1991

11. M.Fowler, M.Morrison 1pt 21.04.1977, FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985 P.Littlejohn, L. Foulkes - Direct 00.10.1985

12. E.Pardoe, M.Hogge - Lap Of The Gods 00.00.1969 P.Littlejohn, A.McFarlane 00.00.1973 C.King, S.Monks - Direct 00.10.1978

13. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 30.08.1986

14. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15.10.1989

15. M.Crocker 06.10.1991

16. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980

17. E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths - 00.11.1966 FFA S.Lewis, P.Littlejohn 00.00.1980

18. E.Pardoe, L.Costello 00.00.1966

19. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

20. G.Williams, J.Baylis, P.Kokelaar - Girdle 00.00.1969 FFA S.Lewis, G.Lewis 00.00.1985

Conglomerate Cliff

2010-08-03T12:35:31Z

Tom Dudley: /* First Ascents */

[[Image:Conglomerate Cliff.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Conglomerate Cliff]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Opposite Yellow Wall and to the left of Eyeball Wall is a black slab. This must be one of the few cliffs in Britain to be
threatened by a conglomerate cornice!

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Don't Look Up''' 22m E2,5c

Start just right of an earthy crack on the left side of the slab. Climb to a narrow ledge, move up a steep section, PR, and continue to an abseil point, PB, TB.

2. '''A Shadow Hanging Over Me''' 22m E1,5b
Start at the right-hand earthy crack. Climb up the crack then step out left onto the slab. Go up a short steep crack until moves over calcite encrustations, 2PR, lead to the steep upper section. Abseil off.

=== First Ascents ===



1. R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1990

2. R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1990

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:35:00Z

Tom Dudley: /* The Pan */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

Lewes Castle West



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



Lewes Castle East



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



The Pan



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:34:33Z

Tom Dudley: /* Lewes Castle East */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

Lewes Castle West



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



Lewes Castle East



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:34:17Z

Tom Dudley: /* Lewes Castle West */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

Lewes Castle West



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:33:49Z

Tom Dudley: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

=== Lewes Castle West ===



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:33:27Z

Tom Dudley: /* Lewes Castle West */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

==== Lewes Castle West ====



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T12:33:01Z

Tom Dudley: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

=== Lewes Castle West ===



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Eyeball Wall

2010-08-03T12:32:38Z

Tom Dudley: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

== PREAMBLE ==

The smooth crack-seamed wall opposite Yellow Wall and right of Conglomerate Cliff provides a number of shorter
routes. An abseil rope is recommended to avoid the epic scramble up from the finish of the rock.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Contact 10.10''' 12m E4,6a

Climb the black scoop and thin crack on the left side of the face. Exit right from the crack to a shallow groove.

2. '''Fovea''' 40 12m E3,6a

Start down and right of ''Contact 10.10'' under a scoop containing some conglomerate holds. Make tricky moves
out of the scoop (in situ hex) and pull up on crozzles to a flat hold. Finish direct.

3. '''Eyeline''' 12m E3,5c

Climb the scoop and crack between ''Fovea 40'' and ''Specky Four Eyes'', with a prominent TR at 8m.

4. '''Specky Four Eyes''' 12m E2,5c
Start at the foot of a diagonal fault that runs rightward towards the headland. Climb a scoop moving right to a jug,
then move up right and back left to a crack leading to a belay.

5. '''Eyeball to Eyeball''' 12m E2,5c

Start at the right side of the face. Climb to the left side of the diagonal fault line, poor TR. Move up to stand on
another fault. Go over the bulge to a vertical slot, then up to a break above and a short wall to easier ground.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===



1. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

2. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 31.08.1986

3. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 30.08.1986

4. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

5. M.Ward, M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

Development

2010-08-03T12:28:22Z

Tom Dudley:

==Becoming an Editor==

Why edit the SWMC Wiki? Maybe you have something important to say or discuss? Perhaps you have photography skills. Maybe you have some spare time and wish put something back into the rock-climbing community of South Wales. You don't need to be skillful at computers, you merely need a willingness to work with others to produce a useful resource for rock-climbers in South Wales.

If you wish to become a registered user then you will need to send an email to [mailto:craginfo@swmc.ath.cx craginfo@swmc.ath.cx]

In your email you should:

# Explain any skills/knowledge that you have and that would be of use. (e.g. Local knowledge, graphics design, writing, photography etc.)
# State if you are a SWMC member. (N.B. non-SWMC are welcome to join the wiki too).

Using the username and password that you will receive via email, log on and start editing.
Use your user:talkpage to give a brief account of your knowledge and skills. This is so that other users can contact you for info/help, etc.

==User Privileges==

Curently there are two levels of privilege:

*'''unregistered-user''':
**You can view all article pages but you cannot edit them.
**You can add text to discussion pages but cannot create them.
**You cannot upload images.

*'''registered-user''':
**You can view and edit all articles.
**You can delete articles.
**You can move articles.
**You can create ''Discussion Pages''
**You can upload images
**You can protect articles, discussion pages and images from editing by un-registered users.

==Submitting Information==

We welcome information on the local crags which can utilised on these pages for everyone to see, please follow the guidelines in the link below for formatting:

'''[[Submitting Information]]'''

Help with Wiki Markup [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting Help]

Downloadable reference card. Suitable for printing. [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/meta/e/e7/MediaWikiRefCard.png Reference Card]

== Standards ==

===Pages ===

See [[Template Page]]

=== Topo Editing ===
See [[Talk:Development]]

==Photographs==

'''[[Photographs|list]]''' of crag photographs that need to be taken.

'''[[Topo Photos]]''' Page of cragshots awaiting editing.

==Software==
A list of downloadable software that may help you.

===Photo Editing===

*'''[http://www.gimp.org/ The Gimp]'''. Powerful photo editing capabilities on a par with the (expensive) '''Photoshop'''.

*'''[http://www.getpaint.net/ Paint.net]'''. Free and, at a pinch, can be used to create topos.

*'''[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape]'''. Free and powerful vector graphics editing. Lots of features useful for creating topos. Similar to '''CorelDraw'''

===Text Editing / Publishing===

*'''[http://www.openoffice.org/ OpenOffice]'''. Powerful office suite. Can do export to PDF, export MS Word --> wiki markup. Image editing with its '''Draw''' package.

*'''[http://notepad-plus-plus.org/ Notepad++].''' Very powerful text-editing. Does syntax highlighting, tho' not (yet) of wiki markup.

*'''[http://www.scribus.net/ Scribus] ''' A Desktop Publishing program which can be used for combining topos with route descriptions in various formats.

===GPS and GeoTagging===

For those who have never Geotagged photos, here is an ultra-short '''[[Geotagging Tutorial|tutorial]]'''

*'''[http://geotag.sourceforge.net/?q=node/2 Geotag]'''. Tt geotags photos using a GPS's track log. It will download directly from your GPS if it has a USB interface. This will mean that you don't have to use [http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel].

*'''[http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel]'''. Very powerful. Acquires tracklogs from a wide variety of GPSs and optionally converts the tracklogs/waypoints to KML, KMZ, GPX, etc. etc. for viewing in GoogleEarth/Maps, GeoTagging, etc.

==Creating Maps==

We can use maps in this wiki. We have installed two extensions to allow us to do this.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Google_Maps Google Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (incl. Satellite View) and allows us to place markers.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Maps Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (not Satellite) and also [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] maps and Yahoo Maps. It is being actively developed. The possibility of using [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] allows us to have some control of the map that is offered to the user. For instance, we could map footpaths which lead to crags. I suspect, in the long run, this extension will me of more use to us.

===Mapping Software===

If you wish to get into [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] check their wiki. [http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/ OpenStreetMap Wiki] and the [[wikipedia:OpenStreetMap|OpenStreetMap Wikipedia Article]]

Jacky's Tor

2010-08-03T12:22:05Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 417 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Routes left (west) of ''V-Groove'' and right of ''Plot 13'', 1½ hours either side of low water. Routes on the front of the buttress ¾ hour either side of low water. Routes in the cave of ''Shock And Awe'' are non-tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Jacky's Tor is the prominent headland to the right (east) of Great Boulder Cove. It provides a number of good quality
climbs. There is a deep cave left of the large front buttress and a lower subsidiary buttress left of the cave.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

For ''Agamemnon'' and routes to the left (west) either scramble down the west side of the tor with extreme
caution, or use the abseil descent above [[Eyeball Wall]]. For routes to the right, either abseil off the shaky spike above
''Plot 13'', or walk off right (east) and descend down ridges to [[Cathedral Wall]]. Routes between ''Pluto'' and ''Slab And Wall''
have problematic descents - see the text.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Subsidiary Buttress ===

There is a large sloping platform at the foot of the buttress. 2m above this and running along the left side of the buttress is a ledge. Rateau De Chevre starts below the left end of this - the old boulder problem of Lambert (J.Talbot 1969) takes the wall left again.

1. '''Rateau De Chevre''' 12m M

Climb to the left-hand end of the terrace, move up left and finish up a short corner.

2. '''Angel Flake''' 12m M

The vague rib to the right of ''Rateau De Chevre''.

3. '''Slanting Corner''' 15m D

The first prominent diagonal groove to the right of ''Angel Flake''.

4. '''Left Ramp''' 15m D

To the right is the prominent red groove of ''Red Corner''. Start up this, but step left and take the left-trending ramp above.

5. '''Red Corner''' 21m VD

The prominent red groove. Gain the ledge and climb a groove above to a recess. Surmount the overhang and follow the slabby groove above to the top.

6. '''Wall And Crest''' 24m VD

Climb a very faint groove 2m right of ''Red Corner'' to gain and finish up ''Kinder''.

7. '''Kinder''' 24m S

Climb the centre of the front of the pillar to a large recess below the groove in the upper half of the buttress. Take the corner to the top.

'''Kindergarten''' (J.Talbot 1970) is a rather pointless link-up of ''Kinder'' and ''Red Corner'' at half-height.

8. '''Guardian''' 24m S *

Start below the groove in the upper half of the buttress. Climb it to the large recess and traverse right to the arete.
Follow this to the top.

=== Cave Area ===

To the right is a gully containing a cave. An old route on the left wall is largely superseded by others (''Wall and Crest'',
J.Talbot 1963). The following route can be used to access the floor of the cave.

9. '''Cave Corner''' 30m D

Scramble up from beach level to the cave then climb the easy left wall to finish up a groove.

10. '''Chantilly Lace''' 21m HVS,5b **

A cracker, taking the steep corner left of the cave with good protection and good rock.

11. '''Shock And Awe''' 21m E6,6c *** ?

Spectacular climbing up the central cave system to the right of ''Chantilly Lace'', 3TRs.

12. '''Possessed''' 22m E4,6a *

A sustained pitch, with plentiful but indifferent protection. Start right of the cave. Climb a flake crack to a small
ledge, step left to gain a thin crack, PR, and climb this, PR, to easier ground.

13. '''Repossessed''' 22m E4,6a *

From the step left of ''Possessed'' continue up the groove between this and the ''Damned''. Finish up ''Cave Traverse''.

14. '''The Damned''' 22m E2,6a

A good, varied route. As for ''Possessed'' to the small ledge, move right and climb the crack to a small roof. Battle
up the corner crack above and finish along the traverse line of ''Cave Traverse''.

15. '''Cave Traverse''' 39m HS,4a *

An exposed route. Climb into the cave and traverse rightwards to the first corner crack. Follow this to a recess,
level with the top of the wall above the cave. Traverse left to ledges, 2PR.

The following routes are on the wall to the right. The finishes are obviously lethal, so it is assumed that climbers will
either abseil off, leaving some gear, or descend down and to the right. The descriptions are therefore terminated at the
end of the solid rock.

16. '''Pluto''' 16m VS,4b

At sea level and below the cave of the tor, is a vague rib on the right wall, left of a narrow slab. Start up this, but
swing left onto a knob at 5m and finish up grooves above to the ledge.

17. '''Narrow Slab''' 15m VD

The narrow slab itself.

18. '''Seaward''' 18m D

The obvious corner 5m to the right of ''Narrow Slab'', gaining a ledge off to the right.

19. '''Slab And Wall''' 17m VD

The wall right of ''Seaward''.

20. '''Agamemnon''' 27m VS,4c ?

Follow the steep broken groove just left of the front of the buttress taking care with the rock, to a traverse line
leading rightwards at 25m. Belay. Either finish direct or traverse right to reach easier ground.

=== Front Face ===

The following routes are on the superb rock of the front seaward face of the Tor. For ''V-Groove'' and ''Plot 13'', keep a
very close eye on the tide.

21. '''V Groove''' 27m E3,5c **

One of Gower's earliest classic hard routes. Delicate and technical at first, then more exposed and strenuous.
Start below the rib left of the overhanging corner in the front of the buttress, climb it and the thin crack to gain the
v-groove. Exit leftward from the notch and climb a shallow groove above to a ledge. Either traverse off
rightwards or abseil from a shaky block.

22. '''Plot 13''' 27m E4,6a ***

A good addition, which is just shy of E5. Start at the overhanging chimney just right of ''V Groove''. Bridge up the
constricted chimney until it is possible to step down right below a sharp fin of rock. Climb the thin crack on its
left side to the overhang. A hard move leads to a hidden hold above the overhang. Step right to the arete, PR,
then move leftwards onto the face and make hard moves up and left. Continue up the face to the walk-off ledge.

=== East Wall ===

Right (east) of the front face of Jacky's Tor is a bulging wall with a thin crack on its left side and a shallow groove at
its right.

23. '''Promise Of A Miracle''' 25m E5,6a

Start 5m right of ''Plot 13''. Thin cracks lead to a large roof, which is passed on the right to reach an open corner.
Move left into a shallow groove to finish.

24. '''Crank The Hummer''' 24m E3,6a *

Take the thin crack right of ''Promise Of A Miracle''. Climb to the start of the crack, PR, move over a small overhang
and follow the crack to the top. The name is not a misprint.

25. '''Stuntmaster''' 18m E5,6a

Start 3m right of ''Crank The Hummer''. Climb just left of an arete, to enter a groove in the arete. Move left at the top.

26. '''Cut Across Shorty''' 19m E3,6a *

The groove left of ''Red Diedre''. Gain it by climbing the arete. The PR is on its last legs. The name is correct.

27. '''Red Diedre''' 18m HVS,5a *

A steep corner skirts the overhanging area to the right of ''Cut Across Shorty''. Climb easy rocks to gain the corner
and climb it directly.

28. '''Mittel''' 18m VD

As for ''Red Diedre'', but move right to finish up the arete.

29. '''Awry''' 15m S

The wall right of ''Mittel''.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1969

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

5. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

8. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

9. Unknown Pre-1981

10. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982

11. M.Richards, A.Sharp, M.Jones, P.Lewis 27.03.2003

12. J.Talbot, P.Perkins - Cave Overhang 00.00.1964 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood, D.Hillier 30.10.1982

13. M.Richards, A.Sharp, M.Jones 27.03.2003

14. A.Sharp, D.Hillier 00.00.1982

15. R.Owen, C.Andrews, C.Edwards 00.00.1960

16. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

17. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

18. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

19. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

20. E.Pardoe, L.Costello 00.00.1969

21. E.Pardoe, D.Ellis 00.00.1966

22. R.Thomas, J.Bullock, L.Moran 31.05.1987

23. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 24.10.1993

24. A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 14.04.1984

25. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 24.10.1993

26. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 12.03.1983

27. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

28. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

29. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

Jacky's Tor

2010-08-03T12:21:00Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 417 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Routes left (west) of V-Groove and right of Plot 13, 1½ hours either side of low water. Routes on the front of the buttress ¾ hour either side of low water. Routes in the cave of Shock And Awe are non-tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Jacky's Tor is the prominent headland to the right (east) of Great Boulder Cove. It provides a number of good quality
climbs. There is a deep cave left of the large front buttress and a lower subsidiary buttress left of the cave.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

For Agamemnon and routes to the left (west) either scramble down the west side of the tor with extreme
caution, or use the abseil descent above Eyeball Wall. For routes to the right, either abseil off the shaky spike above
Plot 13, or walk off right (east) and descend down ridges to Cathedral Wall. Routes between Pluto and Slab And Wall
have problematic descents - see the text.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Subsidiary Buttress ===

There is a large sloping platform at the foot of the buttress. 2m above this and running along the left side of the buttress is a ledge. Rateau De Chevre starts below the left end of this - the old boulder problem of Lambert (J.Talbot 1969) takes the wall left again.

1. '''Rateau De Chevre''' 12m M

Climb to the left-hand end of the terrace, move up left and finish up a short corner.

2. '''Angel Flake''' 12m M

The vague rib to the right of ''Rateau De Chevre''.

3. '''Slanting Corner''' 15m D

The first prominent diagonal groove to the right of ''Angel Flake''.

4. '''Left Ramp''' 15m D

To the right is the prominent red groove of ''Red Corner''. Start up this, but step left and take the left-trending ramp above.

5. '''Red Corner''' 21m VD

The prominent red groove. Gain the ledge and climb a groove above to a recess. Surmount the overhang and follow the slabby groove above to the top.

6. '''Wall And Crest''' 24m VD

Climb a very faint groove 2m right of ''Red Corner'' to gain and finish up ''Kinder''.

7. '''Kinder''' 24m S

Climb the centre of the front of the pillar to a large recess below the groove in the upper half of the buttress. Take the corner to the top.

'''Kindergarten''' (J.Talbot 1970) is a rather pointless link-up of ''Kinder'' and ''Red Corner'' at half-height.

8. '''Guardian''' 24m S *

Start below the groove in the upper half of the buttress. Climb it to the large recess and traverse right to the arete.
Follow this to the top.

=== Cave Area ===

To the right is a gully containing a cave. An old route on the left wall is largely superseded by others (''Wall and Crest'',
J.Talbot 1963). The following route can be used to access the floor of the cave.

9. '''Cave Corner''' 30m D

Scramble up from beach level to the cave then climb the easy left wall to finish up a groove.

10. '''Chantilly Lace''' 21m HVS,5b **

A cracker, taking the steep corner left of the cave with good protection and good rock.

11. '''Shock And Awe''' 21m E6,6c *** ?

Spectacular climbing up the central cave system to the right of ''Chantilly Lace'', 3TRs.

12. '''Possessed''' 22m E4,6a *

A sustained pitch, with plentiful but indifferent protection. Start right of the cave. Climb a flake crack to a small
ledge, step left to gain a thin crack, PR, and climb this, PR, to easier ground.

13. '''Repossessed''' 22m E4,6a *

From the step left of ''Possessed'' continue up the groove between this and the ''Damned''. Finish up ''Cave Traverse''.

14. '''The Damned''' 22m E2,6a

A good, varied route. As for ''Possessed'' to the small ledge, move right and climb the crack to a small roof. Battle
up the corner crack above and finish along the traverse line of ''Cave Traverse''.

15. '''Cave Traverse''' 39m HS,4a *

An exposed route. Climb into the cave and traverse rightwards to the first corner crack. Follow this to a recess,
level with the top of the wall above the cave. Traverse left to ledges, 2PR.

The following routes are on the wall to the right. The finishes are obviously lethal, so it is assumed that climbers will
either abseil off, leaving some gear, or descend down and to the right. The descriptions are therefore terminated at the
end of the solid rock.

16. '''Pluto''' 16m VS,4b

At sea level and below the cave of the tor, is a vague rib on the right wall, left of a narrow slab. Start up this, but
swing left onto a knob at 5m and finish up grooves above to the ledge.

17. '''Narrow Slab''' 15m VD

The narrow slab itself.

18. '''Seaward''' 18m D

The obvious corner 5m to the right of ''Narrow Slab'', gaining a ledge off to the right.

19. '''Slab And Wall''' 17m VD

The wall right of ''Seaward''.

20. '''Agamemnon''' 27m VS,4c ?

Follow the steep broken groove just left of the front of the buttress taking care with the rock, to a traverse line
leading rightwards at 25m. Belay. Either finish direct or traverse right to reach easier ground.

=== Front Face ===

The following routes are on the superb rock of the front seaward face of the Tor. For ''V-Groove'' and ''Plot 13'', keep a
very close eye on the tide.

21. '''V Groove''' 27m E3,5c **

One of Gower's earliest classic hard routes. Delicate and technical at first, then more exposed and strenuous.
Start below the rib left of the overhanging corner in the front of the buttress, climb it and the thin crack to gain the
v-groove. Exit leftward from the notch and climb a shallow groove above to a ledge. Either traverse off
rightwards or abseil from a shaky block.

22. '''Plot 13''' 27m E4,6a ***

A good addition, which is just shy of E5. Start at the overhanging chimney just right of ''V Groove''. Bridge up the
constricted chimney until it is possible to step down right below a sharp fin of rock. Climb the thin crack on its
left side to the overhang. A hard move leads to a hidden hold above the overhang. Step right to the arete, PR,
then move leftwards onto the face and make hard moves up and left. Continue up the face to the walk-off ledge.

=== East Wall ===

Right (east) of the front face of Jacky's Tor is a bulging wall with a thin crack on its left side and a shallow groove at
its right.

23. '''Promise Of A Miracle''' 25m E5,6a

Start 5m right of ''Plot 13''. Thin cracks lead to a large roof, which is passed on the right to reach an open corner.
Move left into a shallow groove to finish.

24. '''Crank The Hummer''' 24m E3,6a *

Take the thin crack right of ''Promise Of A Miracle''. Climb to the start of the crack, PR, move over a small overhang
and follow the crack to the top. The name is not a misprint.

25. '''Stuntmaster''' 18m E5,6a

Start 3m right of ''Crank The Hummer''. Climb just left of an arete, to enter a groove in the arete. Move left at the top.

26. '''Cut Across Shorty''' 19m E3,6a *

The groove left of ''Red Diedre''. Gain it by climbing the arete. The PR is on its last legs. The name is correct.

27. '''Red Diedre''' 18m HVS,5a *

A steep corner skirts the overhanging area to the right of ''Cut Across Shorty''. Climb easy rocks to gain the corner
and climb it directly.

28. '''Mittel''' 18m VD

As for ''Red Diedre'', but move right to finish up the arete.

29. '''Awry''' 15m S

The wall right of ''Mittel''.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1969

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

5. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

8. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

9. Unknown Pre-1981

10. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982

11. M.Richards, A.Sharp, M.Jones, P.Lewis 27.03.2003

12. J.Talbot, P.Perkins - Cave Overhang 00.00.1964 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood, D.Hillier 30.10.1982

13. M.Richards, A.Sharp, M.Jones 27.03.2003

14. A.Sharp, D.Hillier 00.00.1982

15. R.Owen, C.Andrews, C.Edwards 00.00.1960

16. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

17. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

18. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

19. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1961

20. E.Pardoe, L.Costello 00.00.1969

21. E.Pardoe, D.Ellis 00.00.1966

22. R.Thomas, J.Bullock, L.Moran 31.05.1987

23. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 24.10.1993

24. A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 14.04.1984

25. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 24.10.1993

26. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 12.03.1983

27. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

28. J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963

29. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962

Eyeball Wall

2010-08-03T11:53:51Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

== PREAMBLE ==

The smooth crack-seamed wall opposite Yellow Wall and right of Conglomerate Cliff provides a number of shorter
routes. An abseil rope is recommended to avoid the epic scramble up from the finish of the rock.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Contact 10.10''' 12m E4,6a

Climb the black scoop and thin crack on the left side of the face. Exit right from the crack to a shallow groove.

2. '''Fovea''' 40 12m E3,6a

Start down and right of ''Contact 10.10'' under a scoop containing some conglomerate holds. Make tricky moves
out of the scoop (in situ hex) and pull up on crozzles to a flat hold. Finish direct.

3. '''Eyeline''' 12m E3,5c

Climb the scoop and crack between ''Fovea 40'' and ''Specky Four Eyes'', with a prominent TR at 8m.

4. '''Specky Four Eyes''' 12m E2,5c
Start at the foot of a diagonal fault that runs rightward towards the headland. Climb a scoop moving right to a jug,
then move up right and back left to a crack leading to a belay.

5. '''Eyeball to Eyeball''' 12m E2,5c

Start at the right side of the face. Climb to the left side of the diagonal fault line, poor TR. Move up to stand on
another fault. Go over the bulge to a vertical slot, then up to a break above and a short wall to easier ground.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

2. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 31.08.1986

3. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 30.08.1986

4. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

5. M.Ward, M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.08.1986

Conglomerate Cliff

2010-08-03T11:49:04Z

Tom Dudley:

[[Image:Conglomerate Cliff.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Conglomerate Cliff]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

Opposite Yellow Wall and to the left of Eyeball Wall is a black slab. This must be one of the few cliffs in Britain to be
threatened by a conglomerate cornice!

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''Don't Look Up''' 22m E2,5c

Start just right of an earthy crack on the left side of the slab. Climb to a narrow ledge, move up a steep section, PR, and continue to an abseil point, PB, TB.

2. '''A Shadow Hanging Over Me''' 22m E1,5b
Start at the right-hand earthy crack. Climb up the crack then step out left onto the slab. Go up a short steep crack until moves over calcite encrustations, 2PR, lead to the steep upper section. Abseil off.

== First Ascents ==



1. R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1990

2. R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1990

Yellow Wall

2010-08-03T11:44:59Z

Tom Dudley:

[[Image:Bird_ban.png|right|thumb|''Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 August. Reason - Nesting Birds'' - Contact the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] (01792) 390636 for details of any early lifting]]
'''[[Gower]]'''
[[Image:Yellow Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Yellow Wall]]
'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 416 873'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

3 hours either side of low water (routes on the left) to non-tidal (routes on the right)

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is the rather obvious wall dominating the cove. The first easily identifiable feature is the square corner of Skylark.

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''5 Minutes to Kill '''24m E3,6a

A vague line up the grooves left of ''Winter Warmer''. Climb up and leftwards to a good ledge, step right and climb the arete and wall to gain a sloping ramp. Climb the right wall past a large flake then follow poor rock to the top.

2. '''Winter Warmer '''24m E3,6a

Takes the shallow groove systems just left of the corner of ''Skylark''. Boulder out the bulge just left of ''Skylark'', via a crack, to a ledge. Climb right into a groove then back left to gain a left sloping ramp. Join ''Muppet Show'' to finish.

3. '''Skylark '''39m E2,5c *

Start below an overhang above which is a clean-cut corner. Climb to the overhang at 4m, move to its left end, then over it rightwards. Traverse rightwards into a clean-cut corner, climb it to a ledge, step up into a short groove, then climb the wall above to finish up a crack in the steep wall just left of the arete.

4. '''Enigma '''39m E4,6b **

As for ''Muppet Show'' to the horizontal break at 4m, then follow a line of undercuts up leftwards to an overhang. Climb through the small overhang via a thin crack, then move right into ''Muppet Show''. Continue straight up the bulging groove above until it blanks out. Traverse left to the arete on sloping holds and follow it delicately to the top. It is possible to gain the thin crack directly for a more direct outing.

5. '''Enigma Variation '''39m E5,6b *

The final bulging groove of ''Enigma'' is taken directly, PR. A belay at the base of the groove is advisable.

6. '''Muppet Show '''39m E1,5a *

A fine route. Climb a groove below a small jutting prow under the lowest line of overhangs, to the horizontal break at 4m. Climb leftwards to below the bulging groove, then traverse left to reach easy ground at the top of the corner of ''Skylark''. Either abseil off old peg runners and a block on the left, or finish up ''Skylark''.

7. '''Heroin '''49m E5,6a,6b,5b *

#24m Follow ''Enigma'' to a large ledge in the groove just left of the arete.
#12m Move right onto the wall, PR, swing onto the arete and climb the wall left of the arete (peg runner), then move back onto the arete which leads to a ledge, PB.
#12m Climb straight up the arete above. Exit left to finish.

8. '''Chasing the Dragon '''45m E8,6c **

#15m As for pitch one of ''Yellow Wall'' to gain a belay in the cave halfway up (thread belay).
#30m Move up and right as for ''Yellow Wall'', but at the base of the groove move left to the base of the wall and make a very long reach up for a jug (peg runner). Hard powerful moves up the wall (peg runner) gain the arete and finish of Heroin.

Currently reckoned to be the hardest trad route on the wiki.

9. '''Yellow Wall '''45m E3,5c,5c ***

Start beneath the most prominent groove in the centre-left of the wall beneath a triagular overhang.
#33m Climb the first groove to the overhang, move left to a possible belay in a cave. Move diagonally rightwards, PR, to the obvious corner. Climb stylishly or fight your way to a large ledge.
#12m Climb the leftward-leaning groove on the left side of the ledge. A bold start leads to slightly more secure climbing and the top.

10. '''Hard Liner '''45m E6,6b,5b **

A tiring and technical start leads to a wild excursion up the arete between ''Yellow Wall'' and ''Steam Train''. Start as for ''Steam Train''.
#33m Follow the groove of ''Steam Train'' to the roof. Continue direct up the overhanging grey groove (peg runner) and reach the main rising break (junction with ''Steam Train''). Pull into the groove of ''Steam Train'', then swing left into a bottomless groove. Climb the groove (peg runner) to gain a break above in the arete. Ignore the rightward escape and make two long moves up the final arete to the ''Yellow Wall'' belay ledge.
#12m Climb the cracks and flakes towards the right-hand side of the back wall to the top.

11. '''Steam Train '''45m E4,6a,5b **

This takes the narrow groove and crack right of ''Yellow Wall''. Start at a large boulder 1m right of ''Yellow Wall''.
#33m Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
#12m From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arete to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (''Transformer''). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.

12. '''Transformer''' 48m E3,6a,5c *** ?

The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of ''Yellow Wall'' beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
# 27m Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
# 21m Step right into a groove and follow this to the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.

13. '''Yellow Regeneration''' 51m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arete between ''Transformer'' and ''Holy Grail''. Start 6m right of ''Transformer''. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
# 27m Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
# 24m Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arete, PR. Climb the arete, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.

14. '''Man Of The Earth''' 40m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between ''Transformer'' and ''Yellow Regeneration''.
# 20m Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
# 20m Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR,
to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.

15. '''Skyhedral Wall''' 45m E6,6b *** ?

A long pitch, albeit with three good shakeouts. Medium Friends and large wires are useful. Start at a small cave
3m right of ''Yellow Regeneration''. Climb overhanging layback cracks, TR, PR, and swarm over a capping bulge
on the left to reach a handrail leading rightward to a good rest. Climb diagonally left, PR, to a niche with plentiful
jugs. Take a slim groove on the right to another niche, TR. Power over the bulge above, 2PRs and continue up
a thin left-facing groove to a horizontal break. Hand-traverse left and from a thin short crack, crank over a bulge,
PR, to a juggy rising break. Rockover into a shallow niche, reach a good break and bear left to finish at a small
left-facing groove. Since the first ascent, the pitch has sometimes split by taking a stance out right, reducing the
grade to E5.

16. '''Holy Grail''' 45m E2,5b ** ?

Not for those whose mothers smell of elderberries. More solid than it looks. This takes the broken corner formed
where ''Yellow Wall'' meets the shattered face at the back of the cove, to reach the prominent acute corner high up
on ''Yellow Wall''. Start at a jutting block below an overhang at 21m. Climb deviously leftward to gain a small ledge.
Move left to the corner and up to the overhang. Move left to gain the superb final corner and the top.

17. '''Gafaelwy''' 45m E2,5b,5c * ?

Start right of ''Holy Grail'', below a jutting block.
# 27m Gain the jutting block, then up and left to the corner crack and overhang on ''Holy Grail''. Go over this, then right to a stance below a wide chimney crack.
# 21m Step left and climb a thin crack via overhangs to the top.

18. '''Pilgrim''' 42m E1,5b,5b ???

# 27m As for ''Gafaelwy''.
# 15m Climb the obvious wide crack that trends right to the top.

19. '''Germany Calling''' 50m E3,5c,5b,5a * ?

The obvious right to left break at one-third height. Start as for ''Man Of The Earth''.
# 20m Traverse to a belay on ''Yellow Wall''.
# 18m Traverse to ''Muppet Show''.
# 12m Finish up ''Muppet Show''.

20. '''Transverse''' 30m E2,6a,5a ?

The traverse line below ''Germany Calling''.

# 21m Start as for ''Transformer''. Climb to the first break and move left to gain the traverse line which is followed to ''Skylark''. Belay.
# 9m Finish up ''Skylark'' or continue traversing past ''Winter Warmer'' and down left to a ledge. Climb a thin crack to a sloping stance and the top.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. A.Sharp, R.Powles 26.10.1987

2. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1985

3. C.King, S.Monks 00.10.1978

4. J.Talbot, R.Corbett - Red Slab 00.00.1962 FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis, C.Curle 28.11.1982 A.American, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1985

5. M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987

6. A.Sharp 00.00.1976 P.Littlejohn, C.King - Direct Finish 00.00.1977

7. M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.08.1986

8. A.Berry 02.09.1999

9. J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1962 FFA P.Littlejohn, A.Houghton 00.02.1972

10. M.Crocker 05.10.1991

11. M.Fowler, M.Morrison 1pt 21.04.1977, FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985 P.Littlejohn, L. Foulkes - Direct 00.10.1985

12. E.Pardoe, M.Hogge - Lap Of The Gods 00.00.1969 P.Littlejohn, A.McFarlane 00.00.1973 C.King, S.Monks - Direct 00.10.1978

13. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 30.08.1986

14. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15.10.1989

15. M.Crocker 06.10.1991

16. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980

17. E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths - 00.11.1966 FFA S.Lewis, P.Littlejohn 00.00.1980

18. E.Pardoe, L.Costello 00.00.1966

19. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

20. G.Williams, J.Baylis, P.Kokelaar - Girdle 00.00.1969 FFA S.Lewis, G.Lewis 00.00.1985

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T00:21:54Z

Tom Dudley: /* The Pan */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===



1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T00:21:18Z

Tom Dudley: /* Lewes Castle East */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''



=== The Pan ===

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2010-08-03T00:20:47Z

Tom Dudley: /* Lewes Castle West */

'''[[Gower]]'''

[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m VS,4c

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

30. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

31. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

32. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

33. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

34. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

35. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

36. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

37. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

38. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

39. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

40. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



===Lewes Castle East ===

23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''

=== The Pan ===

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Yellow Wall

2010-08-03T00:18:12Z

Tom Dudley: need to add first ascents and make route names italic

[[Image:Bird_ban.png|right|thumb|''Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 August. Reason - Nesting Birds'' - Contact the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] (01792) 390636 for details of any early lifting]]
'''[[Gower]]'''
[[Image:Yellow Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Yellow Wall]]
'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 416 873'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

3 hours either side of low water (routes on the left) to non-tidal (routes on the right)

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''5 Minutes to Kill '''24m E3,6a

A vague line up the grooves left of ''Winter Warmer''. Climb up and leftwards to a good ledge, step right and climb the arete and wall to gain a sloping ramp. Climb the right wall past a large flake then follow poor rock to the top.

2. '''Winter Warmer '''24m E3,6a

Takes the shallow groove systems just left of the corner of Skylark. Boulder out the bulge just left of ''Skylark'', via a crack, to a ledge. Climb right into a groove then back left to gain a left sloping ramp. Join ''Muppet Show'' to finish.

3. '''Skylark '''39m E2,5c *

Start below an overhang above which is a clean-cut corner. Climb to the overhang at 4m, move to its left end, then over it rightwards. Traverse rightwards into a clean-cut corner, climb it to a ledge, step up into a short groove, then climb the wall above to finish up a crack in the steep wall just left of the arete.

4. '''Enigma '''39m E4,6b **

As for ''Muppet Show'' to the horizontal break at 4m, then follow a line of undercuts up leftwards to an overhang. Climb through the small overhang via a thin crack, then move right into ''Muppet Show''. Continue straight up the bulging groove above until it blanks out. Traverse left to the arete on sloping holds and follow it delicately to the top. It is possible to gain the thin crack directly for a more direct outing.

5. '''Enigma Variation '''39m E5,6b *

The final bulging groove of ''Enigma'' is taken directly (peg runner). A belay at the base of the groove is advisable.

6. '''Muppet Show '''39m E1,5a *

A fine route. Climb a groove below a small jutting prow under the lowest line of overhangs, to the horizontal break at 4m. Climb leftwards to below the bulging groove, then traverse left to reach easy ground at the top of the corner of ''Skylark''. Either abseil off old peg runners and a block on the left, or finish up ''Skylark''.

7. '''Heroin '''49m E5,6a,6b,5b *

#24m Follow ''Enigma'' to a large ledge in the groove just left of the arete.
#12m Move right onto the wall (peg runner), swing onto the arete and climb the wall left of the arete (peg runner), then move back onto the arete which leads to a ledge (peg belay).
#12m Climb straight up the arete above. Exit left to finish.

8. '''Chasing the Dragon '''45m E8,6c **

#15m As for pitch one of 'Yellow Wall'' to gain a belay in the cave halfway up (thread belay).
#30m Move up and right as for ''Yellow Wall'', but at the base of the groove move left to the base of the wall and make a very long reach up for a jug (peg runner). Hard powerful moves up the wall (peg runner) gain the arete and finish of Heroin.

Currently reckoned to be the hardest trad route on the wiki.

9. '''Yellow Wall '''45m E3,5c,5c ***

Start beneath the most prominent groove in the centre-left of the wall beneath a triagular overhang.
#33m Climb the first groove to the overhang, move left to a possible belay in a cave. Move diagonally rightwards (peg runner) to the obvious corner. Climb stylishly or fight your way to a large ledge.
#12m Climb the leftward-leaning groove on the left side of the ledge. A bold start leads to slightly more secure climbing and the top.

10. '''Hard Liner '''45m E6,6b,5b **

A tiring and technical start leads to a wild excursion up the arete between ''Yellow Wall'' and ''Steam Train''. Start as for ''Steam Train''.
#33m Follow the groove of ''Steam Train'' to the roof. Continue direct up the overhanging grey groove (peg runner) and reach the main rising break (junction with ''Steam Train''). Pull into the groove of ''Steam Train'', then swing left into a bottomless groove. Climb the groove (peg runner) to gain a break above in the arete. Ignore the rightward escape and make two long moves up the final arete to the ''Yellow Wall'' belay ledge.
#12m Climb the cracks and flakes towards the right-hand side of the back wall to the top.

11. '''Steam Train '''45m E4,6a,5b **

This takes the narrow groove and crack right of ''Yellow Wall''. Start at a large boulder 1m right of ''Yellow Wall''.
#33m Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
#12m From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arete to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (''Transformer''). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.

12. '''Transformer''' 48m E3,6a,5c *** ?

The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of Yellow Wall beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
# 27m Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
# 21m Step right into a groove and follow this to the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.

13. '''Yellow Regeneration''' 51m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arete between Transformer and Holy Grail. Start 6m right of
Transformer. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
# 27m Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
# 24m Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arete, PR. Climb the arete, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.

14. '''Man Of The Earth''' 40m E6,6b,6b *** ?

A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between Transformer and Yellow Regeneration.
# 20m Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
# 20m Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR,
to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.

15. '''Skyhedral Wall''' 45m E6,6b *** ?

A long pitch, albeit with three good shakeouts. Medium Friends and large wires are useful. Start at a small cave
3m right of Yellow Regeneration. Climb overhanging layback cracks, TR, PR, and swarm over a capping bulge
on the left to reach a handrail leading rightward to a good rest. Climb diagonally left, PR, to a niche with plentiful
jugs. Take a slim groove on the right to another niche, TR. Power over the bulge above, 2PRs and continue up
a thin left-facing groove to a horizontal break. Hand-traverse left and from a thin short crack, crank over a bulge,
PR, to a juggy rising break. Rockover into a shallow niche, reach a good break and bear left to finish at a small
left-facing groove. Since the first ascent, the pitch has sometimes split by taking a stance out right, reducing the
grade to E5.

16. '''Holy Grail''' 45m E2,5b ** ?

Not for those whose mothers smell of elderberries. More solid than it looks. This takes the broken corner formed
where Yellow Wall meets the shattered face at the back of the cove, to reach the prominent acute corner high up
on Yellow Wall. Start at a jutting block below an overhang at 21m. Climb deviously leftward to gain a small ledge.
Move left to the corner and up to the overhang. Move left to gain the superb final corner and the top.

17. '''Gafaelwy''' 45m E2,5b,5c * ?

Start right of Holy Grail, below a jutting block.
# 27m Gain the jutting block, then up and left to the corner crack and overhang on Holy Grail. Go over this, then right to a stance below a wide chimney crack.
# 21m Step left and climb a thin crack via overhangs to the top.

18. '''Pilgrim''' 42m E1,5b,5b ???

# 27m As for Gafaelwy.
# 15m Climb the obvious wide crack that trends right to the top.

19. '''Germany Calling''' 50m E3,5c,5b,5a * ?

The obvious right to left break at one-third height. Start as for Man Of The Earth.
# 20m Traverse to a belay on Yellow Wall.
# 18m Traverse to Muppet Show.
# 12m Finish up Muppet Show.

20. '''Transverse''' 30m E2,6a,5a ?

The traverse line below Germany Calling.

# 21m Start as for Transformer. Climb to the first break and move left to gain the traverse line which is followed to Skylark. Belay.
# 9m Finish up Skylark or continue traversing past Winter Warmer and down left to a ledge. Climb a thin crack
to a sloping stance and the top.

Talk:Fall Bay to Mewslade

2010-08-02T12:25:47Z

Tom Dudley:

Needs tidying! :) --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 21:21, 9 April 2009 (UTC)

Will get some photos to help in identifying the various crags. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:07, 29 May 2009 (UTC)

==New Routes==

Gower

'''The Aisle - Mewslade'''

Barefoot Acrobat HS 4b 10m

Go through thye cave leading to Treasure, Sump it Up etc. Above the back side of the arch over the cave is a steep juggy arete (about 10m left of Sump it Up) leading up to a groove. Strenuous but all on good holds and perfect rock.

Nick Taylor 29.8.04

North Edge Direct E! 5a 12m

The arete on the landward end of The Aisle, climbed direct with a nice technical sequence of layaways to land a cheval on a notch just below more shattered easy ground.

Nick Taylor 29.8.04

'''Pobbles Bay West – East Wall'''

*Nearly Dropped Mi Brolly E2 5c 12m

To the left of Fourth Buttress three parallel cracks slant up to the conglomertae overhang. Follow the left hand crack direct to below the overhang, then make a steep sequence on undercuts and jams rightwards to an urgent exit from the right hand side of the overhang. Interesting climbing.

Nick Taylor (unseconded) 30.8.04

==Overview map==

Can we get the map from page 53 of the guidebook put up here? --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 13:25, 2 August 2010 (BST)

Talk:Fall Bay to Mewslade

2010-08-02T12:25:25Z

Tom Dudley:

Needs tidying! :) --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 21:21, 9 April 2009 (UTC)

Will get some photos to help in identifying the various crags. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:07, 29 May 2009 (UTC)

New Routes

Gower

'''The Aisle - Mewslade'''

Barefoot Acrobat HS 4b 10m

Go through thye cave leading to Treasure, Sump it Up etc. Above the back side of the arch over the cave is a steep juggy arete (about 10m left of Sump it Up) leading up to a groove. Strenuous but all on good holds and perfect rock.

Nick Taylor 29.8.04

North Edge Direct E! 5a 12m

The arete on the landward end of The Aisle, climbed direct with a nice technical sequence of layaways to land a cheval on a notch just below more shattered easy ground.

Nick Taylor 29.8.04

'''Pobbles Bay West – East Wall'''

*Nearly Dropped Mi Brolly E2 5c 12m

To the left of Fourth Buttress three parallel cracks slant up to the conglomertae overhang. Follow the left hand crack direct to below the overhang, then make a steep sequence on undercuts and jams rightwards to an urgent exit from the right hand side of the overhang. Interesting climbing.

Nick Taylor (unseconded) 30.8.04

==Overview map==

Can we get the map from page 53 of the guidebook put up here? --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 13:25, 2 August 2010 (BST)

Little Block

2010-08-02T12:22:11Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

3 hours either side of low water (left) to non-tidal (right).

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

This is the buttress between [[Hairy Dog Wall]] and [[Yellow Wall]]

== ACCESS ==

Traverse down and right (west) from the footpath across broken rock (behind which is High Chimney Gully) to gain Great Boulder Cove.

== DESCENTS ==

Descent from Little Block is by scrambling down the groove to the right.

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''West Edge''' 12m HS,4a

Climb the left arete of the south (seaward) face.

2. '''Centre Crack''' 12m D

The left side of the seaward face.

3. '''South Wall''' 12m D

The centre of the seaward face, above a spike.

4. '''Red Corner''' 10m D

The red diedre to the right.

5. '''Centre Corner''' 10m D *

The prominent groove in the centre of the east face.

6. '''Wall Climb''' 10m HD

The groove right again.

7. '''Overhang Crack''' 10m D

A vague loose groove to the right of the arete.

===First Ascents===



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

Talk:Little Block

2010-08-02T12:15:24Z

Tom Dudley: Created page with "Could someone clarify the tidal hours are correct. --~~~~"

Could someone clarify the tidal hours are correct. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 13:15, 2 August 2010 (BST)

Little Block

2010-08-02T12:12:07Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

3 hours either side of low water (left) to non-tidal (right).

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

Descent from Little Block is by scrambling down the groove to the right.

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''West Edge''' 12m HS,4a

Climb the left arete of the south (seaward) face.

2. '''Centre Crack''' 12m D

The left side of the seaward face.

3. '''South Wall''' 12m D

The centre of the seaward face, above a spike.

4. '''Red Corner''' 10m D

The red diedre to the right.

5. '''Centre Corner''' 10m D *

The prominent groove in the centre of the east face.

6. '''Wall Climb''' 10m HD

The groove right again.

7. '''Overhang Crack''' 10m D

A vague loose groove to the right of the arete.

===First Ascents===



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

Little Block

2010-08-02T12:07:49Z

Tom Dudley:

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

== BOLTING POLICY ==

== PREAMBLE ==

== ACCESS ==

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. '''West Edge''' 12m HS,4a

Climb the left arete of the south (seaward) face.

2. '''Centre Crack''' 12m D

The left side of the seaward face.

3. '''South Wall''' 12m D

The centre of the seaward face, above a spike.

4. '''Red Corner''' 10m D

The red diedre to the right.

5. '''Centre Corner''' 10m D *

The prominent groove in the centre of the east face.

6. '''Wall Climb''' 10m HD

The groove right again.

7. '''Overhang Crack''' 10m D

A vague loose groove to the right of the arete.

===First Ascents===



1. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

2. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

3. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

4. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

5. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

6. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

7. J.Talbot 00.00.1964

Talk:Maintenance

2010-08-02T11:58:50Z

Tom Dudley:

Can I disable the FCKeditor (for me personally anyway)? I think it (or something else changed within the last 24 hours) is disrupting my work flow :( . The way I was formatting the text on Caswell yesterday, I'd copied three apostrophes to the clipboard then was pasting them before and after each route name. Now when I paste after a route name it automatically sends the rest of the text after it to a new line. The edit window also then loses focus meaning I can't use the keyboard till I click it again. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 00:50, 2 August 2010 (BST)

: I think you can... we can disable it altogether if we don't find it of any use. I think Alan was having trouble with it too... Let me know if you cannot disable it. --[[Special:Contributions/81.103.57.161|81.103.57.161]] 01:10, 2 August 2010 (BST)

: Tom, the FCKeditor '''is''' disabled and has been since yesterday afternoon. The editor that you see is the new WikiEditor. You can disable that by going into your preferences-editing and then disable the new editor. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 09:14, 2 August 2010 (BST)

Yeah, I didn't know whether it was my computer or the wiki editor causing the problem last night. I had very slow response to key strokes and then crashing after 100% CPU usage by explorer. I thought it was the wiki editor. Just tried it now on my works station and it seems fine.??--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 10:28, 2 August 2010 (BST)Although the signature and timestamp gets placed at the start of the page??

Cheers Tim, I had had a go at disabling it last night but I thought it was just the 'enhanced editor' option. I've now disabled all of the beta options and its working fine now. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 12:58, 2 August 2010 (BST)

Talk:Maintenance

2010-08-01T23:50:55Z

Tom Dudley:

Talk:Maintenance

2010-08-01T23:47:48Z

Tom Dudley:

Talk:Development

2010-08-01T22:55:58Z

Tom Dudley:

==Photos For Editing Page==
I've decided to put up the high res versions of the photos I took and also the editable files of the topos I've done (either Inkscape or Paint.Net) so people can edit them if they want. Here it is: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=6nrbp5ws5njdj --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 17:04, 30 July 2010 (BST)

Good idea. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 21:52, 30 July 2010 (BST)

:Tom, it would be better if you were to upload the originals to the wiki and then make a page entitled, "Thumbnails Awaiting" - containing (you'd never guess) thumbnails of either 'works in progress' or 'completed topos'. In this way, folks are more likely to see them and more likley to get working. When finished they can be linked from the appropriate crag page. Space problem? We need to up our quota on the server! --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 00:30, 31 July 2010 (BST)

:Yeah I agree (and to be honest I'd probably fall behind with keeping that mediafire page updated), I'm just thinking of terms of saving space. The shot I took of Giants Cave for example was about 20 photos stitched together (from a 10MP camera), which ended up being a 180MB file. Space isn't an issue for me on my desktop but I don't want to be uploading files of that size if server space is limited. Hows the server paid for by the way? Is it out of your own pockets or more through SWMC? --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 02:33, 31 July 2010 (BST)

Hmmm... 180Mb is a bit big. If an image is, say, over 10MB, then a small thumbnail and link to the mediafire d/load would do the trick. The SWMC pay for the site. We have a quota of 500MB but we are on 744MB at the moment! I would fear an imminent email but the blokes running running the server seem so laid back!

I've been thinking of a way of making the thumbnails page accessible but yet unobtrusive. We could have a small link from the bottom of the main page entitled, [[Development]]. That would take us to the developers' guide, thumbnails, photos wanted, list of suitable software, etc. Could even make it readable only by signed up users. Any thoughts? Alan, Tom, Chris, Steve, etc? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 09:57, 31 July 2010 (BST)

==Topo Standards==
Sounds like a pretty good idea and I like the page. Yeah biggest issues as I see it is A) Space B) Consistency. I am knocking a few topos out for sports crags. I'm using dashed lines for the route line colour co-ordinating it <6b Purple/pink, 6b-6c+ red, 7a-7b orange/yellow, >7b black/blue. A similar scheme would be applicable for trad but requiring another lower grade colour (green I guess) for the severe grades. Numbers of routes in same colours. It's easy to chnge these around using inkscape if routes get re-numbered or re-graded. However, if we are using different programmes we would be a little restricted. Ideas?

===Software===
:I like the consistency idea. It will be a job to coordinate but will be worth the effort. I can use both '''Inkscape''' and '''Gimp'''. I prefer '''Gimp''' because it is a bit more powerful - especially the photo-editing - but will use what others want. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 22:22, 31 July 2010 (BST)

Personally I'd prefer Inkscape as it seems nicer to use, for the topos anyway. Might I suggest that orange/yellow represents an easier grade than red given that orange is a 'softer' colour than red. Also not to fuel a grade debate but would it make sense to have the sport and trad equivalents the same colour. As it is we'd be using red for 6b-6c and also for >E5 , I just think it may be a bit confusing to some. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 23:59, 31 July 2010 (BST)

: Tom, do you like '''Scribus'''? How could we use it?  For publishing ''Topo Crag Sheets''? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 12:36, 1 August 2010 (BST)

: Guess you're wondering why I added it? Well I thought it seems an obvious choice for DTP software; and I'd prefer DTP for producing printable topos. I also had a thought of creating a mini (printable) guidebook (with lots of topos), and Scribus seemed like it might fit the bill. --[[User:Tom Dudley|Tom Dudley]] 23:55, 1 August 2010 (BST)

{| style="width: 500px; height: 200px; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid;" class="wikitable"
|- style="color: Red; font-size: 18pt;"
! colspan="2" | Topo Standards - Sport
|-
! Grade
! Line Representation
|-
| < 6b
| Purple/pink
|-
| 6b-6c
| Red
|-
| 7a-7b
| orange/yellow
|-
| >7b
| black/blue
|}

{| style="width: 500px; height: 200px; border-width: 2px; border-style: solid;" class="wikitable"
|- style="color: Red; font-size: 18pt;"
! colspan="2" | Topo Standards - Trad
|-
! Grade
! Line Representation
|-
| < Severe
| Green
|-
| Severe-Hard Very Severe
| Blue
|-
| > E3
| Yellow
|-
| > E5
| Red
|}

Complete the above as you see fit. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 22:14, 31 July 2010 (BST)

Caswell Bay

2010-08-01T00:14:46Z

Tom Dudley:

By Adrian Berry, Chris Shorrock, Myles Jordan & Goi Ashmore

'''GR587874''' to '''590874'''

==PREAMBLE==
A pleasant slabby series of cliffs with some fine climbing for the lower grade climber. Situated within easy reach of
Swansea and only 5 mins from the road, it is Gower's most populated beach in summer and is not the crag for the
self conscious climber.

==ACCESS==

From Swansea go towards Mumbles, at the mini-roundabout in Mumbles (White Rose pub on the corner) turn right
and head up the hill. At the top of the hill turn left at signs for Caswell Bay and follow the twisting road (B4593) to the
Bay. Park in an obvious "pay or be fined" car park opposite the beach. The climbing is on a series of slabs on the
west side of the bay. The most prominent of these is Great Slab, with an obvious through cave at the base. About 50m
West is Yellow Flecked Slab and 50m further on is Far South Slab, bounded by a tapering triangular fissure at its West
end.

== TIDAL STATUS ==

2½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
For the Far South Slab, scramble down either side. For other routes descent is via a path west for a
short distance then down easy slabs and corners, or east if the tide is high.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Far South Slab===

This is the most westerly of the slabs at Caswell and the most seaward. It consists of a slabby wall of fine quality
rock, with generally good gear. It is therefore ideal for new leaders or for a pleasant half hour of soloing. The west (left)
end is bounded by an obvious triangular fissure, called rather logically, ''Fissure''.

1. '''West Slab''' 15m D

Gain and climb the slab left of ''Fissure'', with an awkward start.

2. '''Fissure''' 14m D

The obvious triangular Fissure, starting on its left wall.

3. '''White Slab''' 14m D

Start at the base of the first proper crack (''Curve'') right of ''Fissure'', but climb the slab directly.

4. '''Curve''' 14m D

The first of the diagonal cracks running to the top of the crag.

5. '''Central Flake''' 13m D

The second of the diagonal cracks running to the top of the crag.

6. '''Direct''' 13m HD

Follow a thinner diagonal crack right of ''Central Flake'', to join ''Central Crack'' at 5m.

7. '''Central Crack''' 12m M

Climb the central crack of the slab. A contrived variant up the slab to the right is possible (''Black Slab'' VS,4c).

8. '''Right Corner''' 12m HVD

Easy, but poorly protected. The very faint left facing groove to the right of ''Central Crack''.

9. '''Smooth Slab''' 12m VS,4c

The smooth black slab to the right of ''Right Corner''.

10. '''Left Y Crack''' 13m D

Climb the left arm of the y-crack, right of ''Smooth Slab''.

11. '''Y Wall''' 10m D

Climb the right arm of the y-crack, right of ''Smooth Slab''.

===Yellow Flecked Slab===

To the east of Far South Slab and west of a prominent inlet leading to the base of the Great Slab, is a yellow stained
slab about 20m high. It is bounded on its west (left) side by a diagonal chimney and a loose corner.

12. '''West Fissure''' 20m VD ???

The diagonal chimney on the left side of the wall is vegetated and probably quite lethal.

13. '''Coloured Slab''' 20m S *

Climb the slab about 5m right of ''West Fissure''.

14. '''Direct''' 21m VD *

At the base of the slab is a rock step. Start from this and climb the slab about 5m right of ''Coloured Slab'', finishing
up a shallow scoop.

15. '''Grooved Slab''' 18m HD

To the right of ''Direct'' is an area of honeycombed rock at the base of the slab. Climb the left side of these combs
to gain the left end of a horizontal crack. Finish direct.

16. '''Curving Crack''' 21m D

Start right of ''Grooved Slab'' at a weakness in the honeycombes. Finish slightly left.

17. '''Loch''' 15m D

The arete to the right of ''Curving Crack'' and before a series of shallow corners.

18. '''First Corner''' 21m VD

Climb the corner to the right of ''Loch'' and finish up the slab above.

19. '''Second Corner''' 21m VD

Climb the shallow groove to the right of ''First Corner''.

20. '''Third Corner''' 21m VD

The corner right of ''Second Corner''.

21. '''East Edge''' 21m VD

The arete to the right of ''Third Corner''.

The rock now drops back into a vague zawn, at the back of which is the obvious Central Slab. The more continuous
west (left) side of the zawn has two narrow slabs running up it.

22. '''Purple Haze''' 21m VS,4b

Start up the first of the two narrow slabs, but break leftwards onto ledges and finish via a short slab.

23. '''Sibling Arete''' 27m E2,5b

Climb the right arete of the first narrow slab in its entirety. No protection.

24. '''Once In A Blue Moon''' 27m HVS,5a

Gain the second narrow slab from the corner on its left. Take the subsequent corner to finish up the earthy crack.

===Great Slab===

This is the most obvious and highest slab at Caswell, containing the through-cave at its base.

25. '''What Not''' 22m S

Start below the Great Slab at a narrow slab leading up to an earthy gully on its left. Climb the narrow slab to its
top, then traverse right on obvious pockets to the left edge of the central slab. Follow the edge to the top. This point
can also be reached by traversing in from ''Nat Not'' at a harder grade (''Left Edge'' VS,4b J.Brown, A.Kyffin 1996).

26. '''Pleistocene Dinosaur''' 22m E1,5b

Reach the cave apex via the huge block overhang and obvious large hole. Climb the slab to the overlap. Finish
up the slab above.

27. '''Nat Not''' 22m VS,4c **

The best route at Caswell. Start on the rock neck below the Central Slab. Traverse deviously into and climb the
right wall of the through-cave to its apex. Pull over this onto the slab above and continue directly.

28. '''Bridge Over Troubled Waters''' 22m E3,6a ?

The roof of the through-cave in its entirety, starting at its depth and bridging until a finish as for ''Nat Not'' is possible.

29. '''Great Slab''' 21m HS,4b *

Climb the centre of the Great Slab linking up the two obvious holes. Not well protected.

30. '''Right Edge''' 21m VS,4b

Follow the right side of the slab. Poorly protected.

31. '''Mac The Knife''' 22m E5,6b *

Painfully attack the overhanging crack in the right wall of the central slab, to finish up the central groove to the top.

32. '''Frantic Corner''' 25m E4,6a ?

Start on the block below the lower shelf of ''Antic Corner'', step up onto the slab and using the right edge, move
gingerly into the corner and up into the block overhang. Follow a line of flakes left into ''Mac The Knife'' at a large
'handle' hold. From here attack the upper wall left of the finish of ''Mac The Knife''.

33. '''Antic Corner''' 20m E1,5b

Start in the east (right) entrance to the through-cave. Chimney up and pull onto the slab at the foot of the corner.
Follow this via an overhang, to the foot of a grass tongue. Climb the rib on the right to the top.

34. '''El Condor Pasa''' 21m E3,6b -

Provides a logical continuation to the direct start of ''Antic Corner''. Start as for ''Shufflebottom Crack'', then pull over
an overlap to gain the pod of ''Antic Corner''. Continue up to the block overhang, which is taken at its right-hand
side, then the arete above.

35. '''Shufflebottom Crack''' 22m HVS,5a

A fun route requiring unique contortions. Start at the foot of a wide smooth crack right of ''Antic Corner''. Climb the
crack to the overhang and shuffle up it to the slab. Move up and over to the right edge and finish up this. Belay
well back across the path.

36. '''Great Gully''' 24m M

To the right of the Great Slab routes is a square-cut gap before a prominent yellow raised slab is reached. Gain
this gap via the offwidth below and continue up the slabs above.

The next routes are on the yellow raised slab to the east (right) of The Great Slab proper.

37. '''Flake Variation''' 16m HD

Start left of the slab and climb up a groove to gain a ledge on the arete. Swing right to finish up a wide crack.

38. '''Main Crack''' 16m D

The left crack on the front face of the slab, finishing up the wide upper crack of ''Flake Variation''.

39. '''Scoop''' 15m S

Some 4m up the east (right) arete of the slab is a ledge. Gain this either by the right-hand crack on the front face,
or from a scoop round to the right of the arete. Finish up thin cracks.

40. '''Direct''' 12m HS,4a

Climb jumbled rock to gain a corner right of an arete over to the right.

41. '''Right Edge''' 12m S

Gain ''Direct'' from the diagonal crack down and right. Finish up ''Direct'', or up the arete.

42. '''Colorado''' 5m E4,5c ?

An exciting micro route that takes the south east arete of the enormous boulder situated right of the main climbing
area on small flakes with a tricky finish. No kit.

===First Ascents===



1. Unknown 00.00.1958

2. Unknown 00.00.1958

3. Unknown 00.00.1958

4. Unknown 00.00.1958

5. Unknown 00.00.1958

6. Unknown 00.00.1958

7. Unknown 00.00.1958

8. Unknown 00.00.1958

9. Unknown 00.00.1958

10. Unknown 00.00.1958

11. Unknown 00.00.1958

12. Unknown 00.00.1958

13. Unknown 00.00.1958

14. Unknown 00.00.1958

15. Unknown 00.00.1958

16. Unknown 00.00.1958

17. Unknown 00.00.1958

18. Unknown 00.00.1958

19. Unknown 00.00.1958

20. Unknown 00.00.1958

21. Unknown 00.00.1958

22. P.Thomas, R.Bennett 00.00.1983

23. S.Lewis, G.Lewis 00.00.1982

24. D.Butler, C.Davies 00.00.1976

25. G.Evans, etc. 26.04.1977

26. D.Butler, C.Davies 00.00.1976 A.Berry, J.Preece, D.Naylor - ALCH 00.00.1990

27. G.Evans, M.Danford, G.Richardson 26.04.1977

28. A.Berry, D.Thomas 00.00.1997

29. Unknown 00.00.1958

30. Unknown 00.00.1958

31. P.Littlejohn, C.Hurley 02.05.1984

32. A.Berry 00.00.1992

33. D.Butler, C.Davies 00.00.1976

34. A.Berry 19.04.1992

35. G.Evans, P.Clay 08.08.1981

36. Unknown 00.00.1958

37. Unknown 00.00.1958

38. Unknown 00.00.1958

39. Unknown 00.00.1958

40. Unknown 00.00.1958

41. Unknown 00.00.1958

42. A.Berry 13.04.1992

Caswell Bay

2010-08-01T00:09:27Z

Tom Dudley:

Whiteshell Point

2010-08-01T00:01:34Z

Tom Dudley:

By Adrian Berry

'''GR598869'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==

A short leaning wall situated on the east side of the headland on the east side of Caswell bay. There are some hollow
holds at the top that are worth respecting.

== ACCESS ==

Park at the Caswell Bay car park (see Caswell for more details). Approach by following the cliff path east (left when
looking out to sea) past steps that climb up to the headland. From just past the top of the steps, follow an obvious path
that leads down past the top of the crag. Belays are set well back.

== DESCENTS ==

== THE ROUTES ==

1. Shiver 10m HVS,5a

Start off prominent boulder at a faint crack 2m left of East Of Eden. Make a hard pull to gain the break, then follow
the pocketed wall above.

2. East Of Eden 10m E2,5c

Start at the base of an obvious diagonal crack that runs rightwards from a pointed boulder. Make a sharp pull to
gain the break, then launch directly up the wall, with surprisingly good protection. Finish just left of prominent
block at the top.

3. The Getaway 12m E1,5c

As for East Of Eden to the break, then follow the break all the way left above the cave.

===First Ascents===



1. D.Thomas, A.Berry 23.10.1997

2. A.Berry 23.10.1997

3. A.Berry 23.10.1997