SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy

2017-11-26T10:15:02Z

Roy thomas: /* ROUTES */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:Location Sheriff.jpg|500 px|thumb|right|Location Sheriff]]

GR: SS 96941 98477

E: 296941, N: 198477

==BOLTING POLICY==
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. Place bolts high so kids can't tamper with them.

==PEAMBLE==
A compact sports quarry. Easterly facing and slightly overhanging dries quickly with an unfortunate proximity to Maerdy. High first bolts so a clip stick is essential.

==ACCESS==
As the A4233 enters Maerdy it turns sharply right. At this point turn left up School Road, past a bus depot, and then turn right on to Mile Street/Edward Street. Park here (if you dare). From the northern end of Edward Street a track leads winds upwards towards the forest. As the track reaches the edge of the forest a steep track lead up into the forest. Follow this steep track directly into the quarry. A pillar marks the quarry entrance.

==DESCENTS==
Topping out is difficult due to a band of loose rock, so all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

==ROUTES==

#'''The Sheriff of Loves Brown Canyon - Fr. 6b+''' Very sustained climbing up a twisting crack becoming increasingly difficult until a mud-filled shot hole offers a breif respite. 
#'''Maerdy Gra - Fr. 6c''' Scramble onto dusty ledge to start sustained climbing on very spaced out cracks, finger jams and pockets. Relentless. 
#'''Project''' 
#'''Kremlin Capers - Fr. 6b+''' Sustained fingery climb to fist jam. 
#'''Little Moscow - Fr. 6b''' Face climbing in the right of

==FIRST ASCENTS==

#D. Emanuel 03/06/2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 26/04/2010
#R. Thomas
#R. Thomas 26/04/2010
#R. Thomas 03/06/2009

Prawn Zawn

2017-11-24T23:32:43Z

Roy thomas: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Minchen Hole to Hunts Bay]]'''

== BOLTING POLICY ==

New sports routes,old routes rebolted with first ascentionists permission.

== PREAMBLE ==

The short 12m tidal wall above the "prawn pools" 120m west of Bowens

There has been a recent re-equipping of the old routes.

== ACCESS ==
At low tide walk along the foreshore from Bowens.(4 min)Avoid attempting to walk down from directly above to avoid trampling vegetation and disturbing the ecosystem.

== THE ROUTES ==
Old pegs and threads replaced with bolts,all routes have lower offs to avoid topping out. Leave plenty of time to escape along the foreshore avoid walking out up the hillside to minimise environmental disturbance.Well this is a bit of a pain so time your last route for the tidal cut off then top out and walk easily up avoiding treading on any rare moss,nesting choughs or special geological features.

#'''Bull Fighter Fr 7b+ *''' Bulge at back of zawn.15m. 
#'''Rush Hour Fr7b+ ''' Break out from previous at 2nd bolt climb tallest part of zawn.16m.Ashley

== First Ascents ==
#2012
#2012
#1999 R.Thomas P.Hadley
#1999 R.Thomas P.Hadley
#1999 R.Thomas P Hadley
#1999 R.Thomas P.Hadley
#1999 P. Hadley R.Thomas
#1999 R. Thomas P. Hadley
#1987 R.Thomas

Paviland Far Far West

2017-11-24T23:22:26Z

Roy thomas: /* The Routes */

[[Category:Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

[[Image:Cold Inconvenience2.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Paviland Far Far West]]]]

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Paviland and Juniper Wall]]'''

'''Grid Ref.''' SS 436860

'''Lat/Long.''' 51,5508372, -4.2568414

==PREAMBLE==
Recent retro-bolting of this substantial zawn has lifted it from obscurity and yielded an excellent crop of mid grade sports routes. Although upon first aquaintance the wall appears steeply intimidating, the excellent friction, bountiful natural features and encouraging bolting enable the climbs to be tackled with a decisive approach and so with an unexpected ease.

The climbs all lie on the western side of the zawn and so are in shade by late afternoon.

The crag is split into left and right wings by a protruding nose, above a conglomerate boulder chockstone. The route ''Rock Bottom'' steps off this nose and onto the wall.

==APPROACH==
'''[[Paviland Far Far West]]''', is less far out west than one might think! After passing through the green gate, towards Paviland, the coast path rises steeply then flattens out parallel to the fence line. Proceed diagonally west across the sward keeping just left of the island of gorse then walk down to the top of the zawn between the two obvious headlands. At first sight it looks a pile of choss but has an excellent steep western wall (left when looking landward) 15m high. Scramble down the east side, or if faint of heart, abseil down the west(at least 40m!) from substantial belays on the narrow path. The routes start near a large jammed conglomerate chockstone at the base of the cliff, not to be confused with the lower tidal block.

== TIDAL STATUS ==
[[Image:Cold Inconvenience.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Cold Inconvenience'' Climber: Nik Goile]]
The first couple of routes are affected at high water only during stormy/spring tides, otherwise non-tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting with FAP possible,new sport routes allowed.

== DESCENTS ==
All routes have newly installed lower-offs and are fully rebolted, there are a couple of projects awaiting drier conditions but these are obvious by the taped bolts or missing first hangers. The old TR's, PR's are mentioned only as a guide but will doubtless be removed in due course.

==The Routes==
''Described from left (seaward) to right.''

# '''Dai's Route - Fr 5+''' The far left line of hangers starting from the rising traverse line. 15m. 
# '''One for the trads - HVS 5a''' Start 1m right of ''Dai's Route''. Take the short impending wall directly, amble up a slab to a large hole, continue until it is possible to traverse right to the lower off of ''Cold Inconvenience''. 20m. 
# '''Cold Inconvenience - Fr6b *''' Step onto the steep 15m. 
# '''Chock A Block - Fr 6b **''' Start from the right-hand end of the chockstone. Pull up steeply, TR, then go up the steep wall, 2TR. Shared belay with ''Rock Bottom''. 15m. 
# '''OPEN Project Fr ?''' Some bolts yet to

==FIRST ASCENTS==
#D.Emanuel 2012
#Chris Wyatt 2017
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore April 2012
#R.Thomas 1988.
#John Bullock 1987.
#R.Thomas 1988.
#J.Bullock 1988.
#R.Thomas 1988.
#Project
#J.Bullock 1988.
#J.Bullock 1988.
#R.Thomas G. Ashmore April 2012
#J.Bullock 1988.
#R.Thomas 1988.

==VIDEO==
Moderate swell and high tide at [[Paviland Far Far West]]

[[File:Paviland_far_far_west.avi|Swell at Paviland Far Far West]]

Dyfryn Woods Crag

2017-11-24T11:00:59Z

Roy thomas: /* CHIMNEY BAY */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:Duffryn2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Nik on 'Leave It To Me' at Dyfryn]][[Contents]]

Postcode district: SA10 7

Grid ref: SS 727 999

Lat: 51:41:03N (51.6843)
Lon: 3:50:30W (-3.84168)

==BOLTING POLICY==
This is a bolted crag but further bolting has ceased due to the sensitive nature mentioned below.
[[Image:Dyfryn Woods.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Dyfryn Woods Crag]]

==PREAMBLE==
A maturing, east facing crag, with fabulous views of Swansea Bay and the Neath Valley

Remeniscent of both the [[Upper Gap]] and [[Coed Ely]] this is a good venue for the 6a/6b climber.

Probably the only reason it doesn't qualify as a 3 star crag is its lack of harder routes.

Do not put the climbing at risk by driving on the Woodland Trust tracks but park up either behind the church or the farm and make the pleasant 30/15 min walk to the crag, this also saves wrecking your tyres and suspension.

==ACCESS==
From the M4 at Junction 43, drive northbound on the A465.

Turn off after 3km, signposted Neath.

At the roundabout go left, signposted Skewen (A4230).

At the next roundabout, take the left after the Tesco entrance, signposted Skewen (A4230).

At the mini roundabouts take a right turn up the hill, signposted Longford.

After negotiating the “tank traps” follow the lane for 2 miles past the Glyn Clydach Hotel. Just after passing the Church is a sharp right hand bend, take a left turn on this bend, small sign for Grange Farm.

Park almost immediately by forest gates 50 m on the right and follow your nose up the track for 30 mins.

For a shorter (10 min) approach; continue up the road, after a sharp right, pass a gas plant (about 1 km from junction) a little further is the farm. Park very considerately. Forest tracks lead up up up 600 m to the escarpment.

'''Currently the landowner - The Woodland Trust - has made it known that they are not happy with this site being used. In order not to jeopodise future access it would be better that groups (esp. commercial) avoid the crag. Absolutely no vehicle access to crag, WALK!'''

==DESCENTS==
Lower offs even on the trad route.

''Routes are described from left to right''

''Catch first sight of the crag as the track takes a sharp tyre wrecking right hand bend.''

#'''Sub prime market - VS 4b''' Small slabby wall by pole gate to single bolt.11m. 

===SERENDIPITY BUTTRESS===
#'''Serendipity - Fr. 5+''' Tricky to start,pegs.11m. 
#'''Enigma - Fr. 6b**''' Superb route,stainless bolts.11m. 
#'''Who Dunnit ? - Fr.6a''' 2 bolts to same lower off as previous.11m. 
#'''You Dunnit - Fr.6b*''' Stainless bolts to separate lower off.11m. 
#'''Pocket Battleship - Fr.5+**''' Brilliant route up arête.12m. 
[[Image:TOPO Chimney Bay Left.jpg|350px|thumb|right|TOPO Chimney Bay Left]]

===CHIMNEY BAY===

#'''Light Cruiser - Fr.6a+*''' Right side of arête, tricky at top.12m. 
#'''Dirty Deeds - Fr.5+''' Peg runner to start. Lower off just left of chimney.12m. 
#'''Get yer fist in - Fr.5+''' Follow cracks then chimney taking care with blocks at the top.12m. 
#'''Leave it to me - Fr.6c+''' Steep wall and overlap left of grotesque chimney challenge.12m. 
#'''Flue Liner - Fr.6a''' Get chimneying.12m. 
#'''Pot Black - Fr.6b*''' Left side of black wall,tricky move at top will set your
#'''Repetitive Stain Inquiry - Fr.6a+*''' Left arête of tower.12m. 
#'''Porno Text King - Fr.6b*''' Right side of tower.12m. 
#'''Silent Mode - Fr.6a''' Hollow flakes and tricky move at overlap.12m. 
#'''Rotters Club - Fr.5+''' Initial wall leads to flake and groove.12m. 
#'''Bad Bad Boy - Fr.6b*''' Right end of this wall over roof/nose to finish on arête.12m. 
#'''Down the drain - Fr.5''' Arete and left side of chimney to lower off below tree.10m. 
#'''Our man from Hyder - Fr.5''' Right side starting up pocketed wall.10m. 
#'''Mined like a sewer - HVS, 5a''' Splitter
# '''Off to Oz - Fr.5''' Two pegs,very short,sling lower off.8m. 
# '''Ed’s Triumph - Fr.5+''' Sling lower off plus ring.8m. 
# '''Nick’s Dilemma - Fr.6a''' Bed knob bolts then secret hold to clip lower off.10m. 
# '''Playing away - Fr.6a''' Start 1.69m right.11m. 
# '''A bit of nokia on the side - Fr.6b''' Rounded pillar with staples.12m. 
# '''Barbara - Fr.6b''' High first
#'''Why did I bother - Fr.6b+''' Hard fingery wall.12m. 
#'''Predictive Text - Fr.6b+*''' excellent climbing up steep wall.12m. 
#'''Baggle Brook Affair - Fr.5*''' Nice slab and passing large pocket in wall above.12m. 
#'''Nifty fingers - Fr.6a''' Start just right,steep wall above ledge.14m. 
#'''Lip service - Fr.6b''' Pass bed knob,ledges to steep wall and tree.15m. 
#'''Family day - Fr.6b**''' All stainless steel bolts to high belay above ledge.15m. 
#'''Affairs of man - Fr.6b''' Slight corner,overlap and headwall to twin chains.15m. 
#'''Supply and demand - Fr.6b''' Steep wall on pockets to shared lower off of groove.14m. 
#'''Demolition gang - Fr.6a''' Groove to right,tricky start.14m. 

#'''Birthday Bulge - Fr.5''' Initial tricky wall passing silver birch .Scrap metal galore.12m. 
#'''Ed’s Folly - Fr.6a *''' Nice wall behind Elder tree.14m. 
#'''Manky groove - Fr.5+''' Rusty pegs to shared lower off,the name says it all.14m. 
#'''Memory man - Fr.6b''' Bridge up chimney trend up left via secret hold.14m. 
#'''Gathering Gloom - Fr.6a+''' Wall right of chimney,long reach to finish.14m. 
#'''Ockers delight - Fr.6b''' Start at bulging nose up wall to fine finish over overhang.14m. 
# '''Nick to the rescue - Fr.6c **''' The cave to right of gnarly oak, steep.14m. 
# '''Damp digits - Fr.6a+''' The right edge of the cave.12m. 
# '''Straight and narrow - Fr.6a+''' Wall to right of cave.12m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
# R.Thomas G. Ashmore
===SERENDIPITY BUTRESS===
#R.Thomas 2007
#R.Thomas 2007
#R.ThomasSub Prime Market R. Thomas 2008
#G.Gibson R.Thomas 2007
#R.Thomas 2007
===CHIMNEY BAY===
# R.Thomas 2007
# R.Thomas 2008
# R.Thomas 2008
# Matt Hirst R.Thomas 2007

Serendipity 
Enigma 
Who Dunnit R.Thomas 2007 
You Dunnit G. Gibson 2007 
Pocket Battleship,Light Cruiser R .Thomas 2007 
Dirty Deeds ,Get Yer Fist In R. Thomas 2008 
Leave It To Me Matt Hirst 2007 
Flue Liner,Pot Black,Slab Happy,Repetitive Stain Inquiry,Porno Text
King,Silent Mode,Rotters Club,Bad Bad Boy. R Thomas 2007 
Down The Drain,Our Man From Hyder R Thomas 2008 
Mined Like A Sewer Myles Jordan , Nicola Ruddock 2007 
Off To Oz Richie Leyshan 2007 
Ed’s Triumph Ed Rees 2007 
Nick’s Dilemma,Playing Away,A Bit Of Nokia On The Side, R.Thomas 2007 
Barbara G.Gibson 2007 
Milky White,Why Did I Bother,Predictive Text,Baggle Brook Affair,Nifty
Fingers,Lip Service,Family Day,Affairs of Man.Supply on Demand R.Thomas 2007 
Demolition Gang R.Thomas 2008 
Birthday Bulge Gwyn Evans 2007 
Ed’s Folly R.Thomas 2008 
Manky Groove,Memory Man,Gathering Gloom,Ockers Delight,Nick To The Rescue
R.Thomas 2008 
Damp Digits,Straight And Narrow R.Thomas 2009

Rhossili Sea Level

2017-11-24T10:49:50Z

Roy thomas: /* Kitchen Corner */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Upper Crags]]'''

==TIDAL STATUS==

== BOLTING POLICY ==
See individual crags

==PREAMBLE==

==ACCESS==

==DESCENTS==

==THE ROUTES==

===Black Wall===
[[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]
''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''
#'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr. 6a Boulder up the barnacles easier above. 
#'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr. 5 Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition. 
#'''Fats Waller''' - Fr. 7a Technical groove. 
#'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b Big moves! 
#'''Black Adder''' - Fr. 6b+ Small then bigger holds. 
#'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr. 6a+ Tricky start. 
#'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr. 6a+ A better route. 

===Shipwreck Cove===
[[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]
[[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]
[[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]
''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''

#'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c''' Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy. 
#'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''. 
#'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr. 7a+ Bisects the following route. 
#'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out. 
#'''Marine Layer''' - Fr. 7a The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''. 
#'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr. 7b+ Crux at top. 
#'''Vennerne''' - Fr. 7c+ Steep. 
#'''Air Show''' - Fr. 8b A former closed project of Adrian's. ''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted "closed works in progress" awaiting the return of dry conditions.'' 
#'''Eurofighter''' Fr 8b A bit steep 
#'''Helvitia''' Fr8b+ Pretty Steep 
#'''Delta Dagger''' Fr 8a Just steep 
#'''Gunshow''' Fr8a+ A link cup best supped when dry. 
#'''Cannonade''' Fr 7c+ Much steepness 
#'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr. 8b Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip. 
#'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+ The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem. 
''Up above are a series of "easier"routes many of which are traversing in nature and still a bit wobbly. Best stripped by seconding and done when the circus is out of town below.''
#'''Elvis Was A Longboarder''' Fr6a+ Raw 
#'''Cocky Black Chauffage'''Fr 6c Up by there,risque by jove. 
#'''Cross Incontinents''' Fr 6c Just pad on up,often damp. 
#'''Nice day for a fake wedding'''Fr 5c Easiest here 
#'''Jack Ketch's Dance'''Fr 6b More up by there butty 
#'''Dylan's Delight'''Fr 6c Right up by there. 
''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.'' 
#'''Blockiness''' - Fr. 6c+ *** Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered). 
#'''Sand Man''' - Fr. 6b The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute. 
#'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ ** Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings. 
#'''John's Route''' - Fr. 6a+ ** Another cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings based around the shallow cave/roof. 
#'''First Handout''' - Fr. 6a+** Gain the ramp continue to a niche with belay above. 
#'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr. 6a+ Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)] 

===Seamen Walls===
[[Image:Seamen wall.jpg|thumb|right|550px|[[#Seamen Walls|Seamen Walls]]]]
Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners.

#'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr. 6a''' Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side. 
#'''The King's Shilling - Fr. 6b**''' The overhanging crack. 
#'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr. 6b+**''' Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route. 
#'''Concrete Cow - Fr. 6a''' Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start. 
#'''Smeatons Stump - Fr. 5+''' enter the corner from the right via easier terain. 
#'''Seamans Taines - VS,4c''' The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path. 
#'''Good Ship Venus - Fr. 5+''' Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous.. 
#'''Lamisil - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Zetuwit - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Atrumen - Fr. 5''' 
#'''El Cino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Frappacino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Pure Cino - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Catapult - Fr. 4''' A square cut rib. 
#'''Shengen - Fr. 4''' Wall R 
#'''border Control - Fr. 4''' Fine wall R again. 
#'''Checkpoint Checkout- Fr. 5''' Slim black groove. 
#'''Andre Marriner - Fr. 5''' Faint black groove gained from L. 
#'''My Maid's Mermaid - Fr. 5''' Short black corner. 
#'''Marinier - Fr. 6a+''' Black wall R again. 
#'''Black Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Sea Shanty Rib - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Seamen In The Groove - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Thems be Barnacles, them's be - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Operation Seaman - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Me Harty's - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Limbo - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''kickback Tar - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Whispering Whelks - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Barnacle Thrill - Fr. 4c''' Black rib. 
#'''Pumping My Bilges - Fr. 6a''' Roof 
#'''All Hands On The Seacocks - Fr. 4a''' Easy wall to shared belay. 

''Can someone draw some lines please?''

===Mermaid Wall===
Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical

=== Sheepbone Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is
''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.
#'''First Diedre''' 10m D Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete. 
#'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block. 
#'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b Climb the rightward-slanting crack. 
#'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD * The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''. 
#'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''. 
#'''Cross''' 12m D Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove. 
#'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD * Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack. 
#'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a * The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''. 
#'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S * Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top. 
#'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b). 
#'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b * Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left. 
#'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right. 
#'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD Ascend the obvious slanting crack. 
#'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a * Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct. 
#'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes. 
#'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back. 
#'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b The back arete forming the right edge of the recess. 
#'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b * The arete to the right. At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left. 
#'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b Climb the corner, swinging right to finish. 
#'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top. 

=== Terrace Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.

#'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs. 
#'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side. 
#'''Central Gully''' 15m D The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Deception''' 20m S Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below. 
#'''Deceit''' 20m S Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''. 
#'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''. 

=== Sinister Sister Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.

#'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this. 
#'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top. The next two routes start from the jammed boulder. 
#'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b *** Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top. 
#'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a ** The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck! 
#'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b * The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific. 
#'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR. 
#'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock. 

=== Evening Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!

#'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves. 
#'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly. 

=== Yellow Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

#'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a * A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side. 
#'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right. 60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar. 
#'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b ** A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish. 

=== The Platform Area ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.

#'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- ** When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons. 
## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave. 
## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete. 
## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish). 
#'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a ** A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. 
#'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b * Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall. 

=== Poser Buttress ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.

'''North Wall''' 
#'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b The most seaward crack. 
#'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a The next crack to the right (landwards). 
#'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c * Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''. 
#'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b ** The third crack right from the sea. Good. 
#'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b The fourth crack. 

'''South Wall''' 
#'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully. 
#'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR. 
#'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully. 

=== Kitchen Corner ===
'''Bolt Policy:''' bolting.

The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.

#'''Dove Crack''' 12m M The wide chimney in the back of the cove. 
#'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed. 

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Mermaid wall.jpg|Mermaid Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club
File:Trial wall and sheepbone wall.jpg|Trial Wall and Sheepbone Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club

</gallery>

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Black Wall'''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''

'''Shipwreck Cove'''

'''Castaway Cove'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''

'''Seaman Wall'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''

'''Mermaid Wall'''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
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#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
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#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''

'''Right Hand Pillars'''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''

''' Sheepbone Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975'' 
#''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989'' 
#''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Harber Pre-1978'' 
#''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 

''' Terrace Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M.Harber 00.00.1982'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1972'' 

''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker 04.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988'' 
#''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992'' 

''' Evening Wall'''
#''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986'' 
#''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986'' 

''' Yellow Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 

'''The Platform Area'''
#''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981'' 
#''M.Ward 16.08.1987'' 

'''Poser Buttress''' 
'''North Wall'''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
'''South Wall'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982'' 
#''L.Davies 00.00.1988'' 
#''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981'' 

'''Kitchen Corner'''
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958'' 
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''

Rhossili Sea Level

2017-11-18T22:36:59Z

Roy thomas: /* Castaway Cove */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Upper Crags]]'''

==TIDAL STATUS==

== BOLTING POLICY ==
See individual crags

==PREAMBLE==

==ACCESS==

==DESCENTS==

==THE ROUTES==

===Black Wall===
[[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]
''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''
#'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr. 6a Boulder up the barnacles easier above. 
#'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr. 5 Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition. 
#'''Fats Waller''' - Fr. 7a Technical groove. 
#'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b Big moves! 
#'''Black Adder''' - Fr. 6b+ Small then bigger holds. 
#'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr. 6a+ Tricky start. 
#'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr. 6a+ A better route. 

===Shipwreck Cove===
[[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]
[[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]
[[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]
''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''

#'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c''' Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy. 
#'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''. 
#'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr. 7a+ Bisects the following route. 
#'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out. 
#'''Marine Layer''' - Fr. 7a The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''. 
#'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr. 7b+ Crux at top. 
#'''Vennerne''' - Fr. 7c+ Steep. 
#'''Air Show''' - Fr. 8b A former closed project of Adrian's. ''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted "closed works in progress" awaiting the return of dry conditions.'' 
#'''Eurofighter''' Fr 8b A bit steep 
#'''Helvitia''' Fr8b+ Pretty Steep 
#'''Delta Dagger''' Fr 8a Just steep 
#'''Gunshow''' Fr8a+ A link cup best supped when dry. 
#'''Cannonade''' Fr 7c+ Much steepness 
#'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr. 8b Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip. 
#'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+ The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem. 
''Up above are a series of "easier"routes many of which are traversing in nature and still a bit wobbly. Best stripped by seconding and done when the circus is out of town below.''
#'''Elvis Was A Longboarder''' Fr6a+ Raw 
#'''Cocky Black Chauffage'''Fr 6c Up by there,risque by jove. 
#'''Cross Incontinents''' Fr 6c Just pad on up,often damp. 
#'''Nice day for a fake wedding'''Fr 5c Easiest here 
#'''Jack Ketch's Dance'''Fr 6b More up by there butty 
#'''Dylan's Delight'''Fr 6c Right up by there. 
''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.'' 
#'''Blockiness''' - Fr. 6c+ *** Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered). 
#'''Sand Man''' - Fr. 6b The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute. 
#'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ ** Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings. 
#'''John's Route''' - Fr. 6a+ ** Another cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings based around the shallow cave/roof. 
#'''First Handout''' - Fr. 6a+** Gain the ramp continue to a niche with belay above. 
#'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr. 6a+ Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)] 

===Seamen Walls===
[[Image:Seamen wall.jpg|thumb|right|550px|[[#Seamen Walls|Seamen Walls]]]]
Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners.

#'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr. 6a''' Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side. 
#'''The King's Shilling - Fr. 6b**''' The overhanging crack. 
#'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr. 6b+**''' Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route. 
#'''Concrete Cow - Fr. 6a''' Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start. 
#'''Smeatons Stump - Fr. 5+''' enter the corner from the right via easier terain. 
#'''Seamans Taines - VS,4c''' The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path. 
#'''Good Ship Venus - Fr. 5+''' Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous.. 
#'''Lamisil - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Zetuwit - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Atrumen - Fr. 5''' 
#'''El Cino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Frappacino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Pure Cino - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Catapult - Fr. 4''' A square cut rib. 
#'''Shengen - Fr. 4''' Wall R 
#'''border Control - Fr. 4''' Fine wall R again. 
#'''Checkpoint Checkout- Fr. 5''' Slim black groove. 
#'''Andre Marriner - Fr. 5''' Faint black groove gained from L. 
#'''My Maid's Mermaid - Fr. 5''' Short black corner. 
#'''Marinier - Fr. 6a+''' Black wall R again. 
#'''Black Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Sea Shanty Rib - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Seamen In The Groove - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Thems be Barnacles, them's be - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Operation Seaman - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Me Harty's - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Limbo - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''kickback Tar - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Whispering Whelks - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Barnacle Thrill - Fr. 4c''' Black rib. 
#'''Pumping My Bilges - Fr. 6a''' Roof 
#'''All Hands On The Seacocks - Fr. 4a''' Easy wall to shared belay. 

''Can someone draw some lines please?''

===Mermaid Wall===
Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical

=== Sheepbone Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is
''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.
#'''First Diedre''' 10m D Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete. 
#'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block. 
#'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b Climb the rightward-slanting crack. 
#'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD * The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''. 
#'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''. 
#'''Cross''' 12m D Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove. 
#'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD * Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack. 
#'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a * The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''. 
#'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S * Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top. 
#'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b). 
#'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b * Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left. 
#'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right. 
#'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD Ascend the obvious slanting crack. 
#'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a * Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct. 
#'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes. 
#'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back. 
#'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b The back arete forming the right edge of the recess. 
#'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b * The arete to the right. At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left. 
#'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b Climb the corner, swinging right to finish. 
#'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top. 

=== Terrace Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.

#'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs. 
#'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side. 
#'''Central Gully''' 15m D The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Deception''' 20m S Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below. 
#'''Deceit''' 20m S Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''. 
#'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''. 

=== Sinister Sister Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.

#'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this. 
#'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top. The next two routes start from the jammed boulder. 
#'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b *** Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top. 
#'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a ** The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck! 
#'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b * The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific. 
#'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR. 
#'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock. 

=== Evening Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!

#'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves. 
#'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly. 

=== Yellow Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

#'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a * A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side. 
#'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right. 60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar. 
#'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b ** A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish. 

=== The Platform Area ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.

#'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- ** When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons. 
## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave. 
## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete. 
## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish). 
#'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a ** A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. 
#'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b * Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall. 

=== Poser Buttress ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.

'''North Wall''' 
#'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b The most seaward crack. 
#'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a The next crack to the right (landwards). 
#'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c * Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''. 
#'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b ** The third crack right from the sea. Good. 
#'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b The fourth crack. 

'''South Wall''' 
#'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully. 
#'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR. 
#'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully. 

=== Kitchen Corner ===
'''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.

The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.

#'''Dove Crack''' 12m M The wide chimney in the back of the cove. 
#'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed. 

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Mermaid wall.jpg|Mermaid Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club
File:Trial wall and sheepbone wall.jpg|Trial Wall and Sheepbone Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club

</gallery>

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Black Wall'''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''

'''Shipwreck Cove'''

'''Castaway Cove'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''

'''Seaman Wall'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''

'''Mermaid Wall'''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
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#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''

'''Right Hand Pillars'''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''

''' Sheepbone Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975'' 
#''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989'' 
#''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Harber Pre-1978'' 
#''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 

''' Terrace Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M.Harber 00.00.1982'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1972'' 

''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker 04.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988'' 
#''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992'' 

''' Evening Wall'''
#''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986'' 
#''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986'' 

''' Yellow Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 

'''The Platform Area'''
#''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981'' 
#''M.Ward 16.08.1987'' 

'''Poser Buttress''' 
'''North Wall'''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
'''South Wall'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982'' 
#''L.Davies 00.00.1988'' 
#''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981'' 

'''Kitchen Corner'''
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958'' 
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''

Rhossili Sea Level

2017-11-18T22:35:08Z

Roy thomas: /* Mermaid Wall */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Upper Crags]]'''

==TIDAL STATUS==

== BOLTING POLICY ==
See individual crags

==PREAMBLE==

==ACCESS==

==DESCENTS==

==THE ROUTES==

===Black Wall===
[[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]
''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''
#'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr. 6a Boulder up the barnacles easier above. 
#'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr. 5 Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition. 
#'''Fats Waller''' - Fr. 7a Technical groove. 
#'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b Big moves! 
#'''Black Adder''' - Fr. 6b+ Small then bigger holds. 
#'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr. 6a+ Tricky start. 
#'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr. 6a+ A better route. 

===Shipwreck Cove===
[[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]
[[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]
[[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]
''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''

#'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c''' Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy. 
#'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''. 
#'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr. 7a+ Bisects the following route. 
#'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out. 
#'''Marine Layer''' - Fr. 7a The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''. 
#'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr. 7b+ Crux at top. 
#'''Vennerne''' - Fr. 7c+ Steep. 
#'''Air Show''' - Fr. 8b A former closed project of Adrian's. ''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted "closed works in progress" awaiting the return of dry conditions.'' 
#'''Eurofighter''' Fr 8b A bit steep 
#'''Helvitia''' Fr8b+ Pretty Steep 
#'''Delta Dagger''' Fr 8a Just steep 
#'''Gunshow''' Fr8a+ A link cup best supped when dry. 
#'''Cannonade''' Fr 7c+ Much steepness 
#'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr. 8b Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip. 
#'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+ The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem. 
''Up above are a series of "easier"routes many of which are traversing in nature and still a bit wobbly. Best stripped by seconding and done when the circus is out of town below.''
#'''Elvis Was A Longboarder''' Fr6a+ Raw 
#'''Cocky Black Chauffage'''Fr 6c Up by there,risque by jove. 
#'''Cross Incontinents''' Fr 6c Just pad on up,often damp. 
#'''Nice day for a fake wedding'''Fr 5c Easiest here 
#'''Jack Ketch's Dance'''Fr 6b More up by there butty 
#'''Dylan's Delight'''Fr 6c Right up by there. 
''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.'' 
#'''Blockiness''' - Fr. 6c+ *** Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered). 
#'''Sand Man''' - Fr. 6b The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute. 
#'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ ** Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings. 
#'''John's Route''' - Fr. 6a+ ** Another cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings based around the shallow cave/roof. 
#'''First Handout''' - Fr. 6a+** Gain the ramp continue to a niche with belay above. 
#'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr. 6a+ Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)] 

===Castaway Cove===
[[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]
The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.

#'''Top Drawers - Fr. 5+''' Left hand side of slab past two small roofs. 
#'''Bottom Drawers - Fr. 6b''' Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route. Delicate 
#'''Dirty Drawers - Fr. 6b+''' Travelling leftward steeply, step up then delicately across slab to same LO. 
#'''Sticky Tissue Issue - Fr. 7a+''' At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point. 
#'''La doux parfum de la lingerie utilise - Fr. 6c''' A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous. 
#'''Secret Drawers - Fr. 5''' An unpleasant ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Dirty and loose. 
#'''Cast Me Away - Fr. 6c''' The pillar and roof. 
#'''Grazed and Transfused - Fr. 6a+''' Start from the sloping boulder,follow the steep slab to join the following route at the top two bolts. 
#'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr. 6a''' Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low. 
#'''The Clot Thickens - Fr. 6a+''' Start just left of the deep chimney, gain the lay back crack then move up to the belay of previous route. 
#'''Cracker Barrel - 6b+''' 
#'''Catching Fire - 6c+''' 
#'''Cinders Catch - Fr. 6a''' Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge. 
#'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr. 5+''' After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceeding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single "working non-stainless bolt" where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner. 
#'''Geez Louise - Fr. 5+''' Short wall almost at exit of bay. 
#'''Mini the Minx - Fr. 5''' The short wall starting from the ramp. 

===Seamen Walls===
[[Image:Seamen wall.jpg|thumb|right|550px|[[#Seamen Walls|Seamen Walls]]]]
Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners.

#'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr. 6a''' Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side. 
#'''The King's Shilling - Fr. 6b**''' The overhanging crack. 
#'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr. 6b+**''' Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route. 
#'''Concrete Cow - Fr. 6a''' Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start. 
#'''Smeatons Stump - Fr. 5+''' enter the corner from the right via easier terain. 
#'''Seamans Taines - VS,4c''' The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path. 
#'''Good Ship Venus - Fr. 5+''' Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous.. 
#'''Lamisil - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Zetuwit - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Atrumen - Fr. 5''' 
#'''El Cino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Frappacino - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Pure Cino - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Catapult - Fr. 4''' A square cut rib. 
#'''Shengen - Fr. 4''' Wall R 
#'''border Control - Fr. 4''' Fine wall R again. 
#'''Checkpoint Checkout- Fr. 5''' Slim black groove. 
#'''Andre Marriner - Fr. 5''' Faint black groove gained from L. 
#'''My Maid's Mermaid - Fr. 5''' Short black corner. 
#'''Marinier - Fr. 6a+''' Black wall R again. 
#'''Black Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Sea Shanty Rib - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Sea Shanty - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Seamen In The Groove - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Thems be Barnacles, them's be - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Operation Seaman - Fr. 5''' 
#'''Me Harty's - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Seaman's Limbo - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''kickback Tar - Fr. 4''' 
#'''Whispering Whelks - Fr. 6a''' 
#'''Barnacle Thrill - Fr. 4c''' Black rib. 
#'''Pumping My Bilges - Fr. 6a''' Roof 
#'''All Hands On The Seacocks - Fr. 4a''' Easy wall to shared belay. 

''Can someone draw some lines please?''

===Mermaid Wall===
Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical

=== Sheepbone Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is
''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.
#'''First Diedre''' 10m D Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete. 
#'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block. 
#'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b Climb the rightward-slanting crack. 
#'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD * The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''. 
#'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''. 
#'''Cross''' 12m D Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove. 
#'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD * Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack. 
#'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a * The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''. 
#'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S * Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top. 
#'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b). 
#'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b * Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left. 
#'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right. 
#'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD Ascend the obvious slanting crack. 
#'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a * Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct. 
#'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes. 
#'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back. 
#'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b The back arete forming the right edge of the recess. 
#'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''. 
#'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b * The arete to the right. At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left. 
#'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b Climb the corner, swinging right to finish. 
#'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top. 

=== Terrace Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.

#'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs. 
#'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side. 
#'''Central Gully''' 15m D The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully. 
#'''Deception''' 20m S Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below. 
#'''Deceit''' 20m S Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''. 
#'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''. 

=== Sinister Sister Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.

#'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this. 
#'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top. The next two routes start from the jammed boulder. 
#'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b *** Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top. 
#'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a ** The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck! 
#'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b * The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific. 
#'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR. 
#'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock. 

=== Evening Wall ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!

#'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves. 
#'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly. 

=== Yellow Zawn ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

#'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a * A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side. 
#'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right. 60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar. 
#'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b ** A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish. 

=== The Platform Area ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.

#'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- ** When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons. 
## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave. 
## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete. 
## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish). 
#'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a ** A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. 
#'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b * Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall. 

=== Poser Buttress ===
'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.

'''North Wall''' 
#'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b The most seaward crack. 
#'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a The next crack to the right (landwards). 
#'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c * Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''. 
#'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b ** The third crack right from the sea. Good. 
#'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b The fourth crack. 

'''South Wall''' 
#'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully. 
#'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR. 
#'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully. 

=== Kitchen Corner ===
'''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.

The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.

#'''Dove Crack''' 12m M The wide chimney in the back of the cove. 
#'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed. 

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Mermaid wall.jpg|Mermaid Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club
File:Trial wall and sheepbone wall.jpg|Trial Wall and Sheepbone Wall - Picture by Chris Fryer of Swansea Flying Club

</gallery>

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Black Wall'''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''

'''Shipwreck Cove'''

'''Castaway Cove'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''

'''Seaman Wall'''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''
#''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''
#''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''

'''Mermaid Wall'''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''
#''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''

'''Right Hand Pillars'''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''
#''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''

''' Sheepbone Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975'' 
#''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989'' 
#''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Harber Pre-1978'' 
#''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003'' 
#''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 

''' Terrace Wall'''
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1968'' 
#''M.Harber 00.00.1982'' 
#''J.Talbot 00.00.1972'' 

''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker 04.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 03.09.2003'' 
#''M.Crocker 07.09.2003'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988'' 
#''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992'' 

''' Evening Wall'''
#''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986'' 
#''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986'' 

''' Yellow Zawn'''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987'' 

'''The Platform Area'''
#''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981'' 
#''M.Ward 16.08.1987'' 

'''Poser Buttress''' 
'''North Wall'''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981'' 
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982'' 
'''South Wall'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982'' 
#''L.Davies 00.00.1988'' 
#''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981'' 

'''Kitchen Corner'''
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958'' 
#''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''

Temple Bay Inlets

2017-11-18T22:26:23Z

Roy thomas: /* The Long Wall */

[[image:Temple bay inlets-thumb.jpg|thumb|150px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/temple_bay_inlets.pdf]]

[[Image:TempleBay-Roy-Thomas.jpg|thumb|500px|Roy Thomas on ''Matt of the Iron Gland'', [[Temple Bay Inlets]]. Photo by [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
Sea Walls and Temple Bay Inlets

=PREAMBLE=

A pleasant area of small inlets east of the sea walls of witches point. Revisited and regeared recently. Sunny outlook and solid rock make this a must.

Approach by walking over witches head land(or if lucky with the tides across the beach) to the fisherman's ledges and scrambling down east before the neighbouring temple bay is reached. An abseil from the "wrasse" belay can often save the walk over the headland on the way back.

=BOLTING POLICY=

Bolting permissible, rebolting with FA permission.

=ROUTES=

===SEA WALLS===

''Immediately below the fishermans ledges on the very tip of witches are a number of walls and overhangs offering short sharp routes. Many of the routes were done decades ago and have remained unreported or unrecorded until now.Some of the old pegs and situ gear have been replaced. A fun place to be in the sun.''

[[Image:Sea Walls (left) topo.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Sea Walls (Left) Topo]]

#'''Betty Swallocks''' Bulging arete on left of platform.6m 
#'''It's just bollocks - E2, 6b''' The overhang, gaining and using the black chert hold.6m 
#'''Paternoster - E3, 5c''' The roof,situ threads.10m 
#'''Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b''' The roof and final crack.10m 
#'''Royle Headache - E3, 6b''' Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head and a mat would be handy.10m 
#'''Jilters Wall - E2, 5c''' The narrow white wall,PR.10m 
#'''Professor's Crack - VS, 4b''' The crozzly ramp and crack.10m 
#'''Leg Over - E4, 6a''' Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m 
#'''Pull Over - E3, 6a''' More of the same.Climb direct from the platform(TR)to the large ledge,womble up.10m 
#'''Hand Over - HVS, 5a''' The faint rounded corner gained awkwardly from the next step up.10m 
#'''Gloss Over - E1, 5b''' The right side of the wall left of the long rectangular beam of rock.10m 
#'''No push over - E1/2, 5c''' Gain the beam of rock on the left (Protection possibilities)then flail hopefully onto the top of the beam or if slender in girth squirm through,both methods are harrowing. 10m 
''To the right is an easy escape chimney and a square crinkly block.'' 
#'''Eugene's Over - E1, 5c''' The centre of the block.5m 
#'''Cross Over-?, ?''' The right edge of the block. 5m 
''Around the front again are-''
#'''"How Well It Flows" - HVS, 5b''' The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m 
#'''Arcana E4,5c''' The face right of the ragged crack. 7m. [[Image:Sea wall breakout topo.jpg|700px|thumb|Sea Wall - Breakout Area]][[Image:Fools rush in 2.jpg|700px|thumb|Rich Leyshan - ''Fools Rush In'' 6c+]]
#'''Lysistrata - E5,6a''' Make first moves of "Arcana" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m. 
#'''Bridges End - E3,6b *''' Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of ''Undercut''.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m. 
#'''Undercut - E1, 5c''' The obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m 
#'''Up In Smoke - E3 5c''' Gain the first break(painfully)continue directly up the wall via the peg runner(drilled of course).7m. 
#'''Step Aside - E2, 5c''' The obvious rightward sloping crack,hard to start painful to continue.10m 
#'''Cold Shoulder - HVS, 5b''' Gain the ramp from the left(spike runner in horizontal break.Use pocket in short wall(left) to finish.10m 
#'''Breakout - HVS, 5a''' Pull into the hanging groove ,gain the ramp then take crozzly pockets on right.10m 
#'''Fast Flow 1 - E1, 5b''' Start just right of the groove,gain and climb the brown flowstone(TR).10m 
#'''Fast Flow 2 - E2, 5b''' From the low scoop gain and climb past the drilled thread in the flowstone.10m 
#'''Even Faster Flow - E3,5b''' Even more threads,all drilled of course.10m. 
#'''Aristophanes plays with time - E3, 6a *''' At the right end of the undercut section are some black chert lumps directly under an old yellow thread.Ensure the integrity of your spine with large numbers of bouldering mats or some "thoughtful stick clipping".Devise and execute the sequence of slaps and pulls to reach the break and continue directly up the wall. Try Eugene's sitting start for full value. 10m 
#'''Turn Back Time - E3, 5b''' Joins the two routes on either side.Step up as for next route then take a short traverse left to join the yellow "tat" of the previous route. 10m 
#'''Down The Mists of Time - E2, 5b''' Step up just left of the faint line of Surprise and continue direct past the situ tat. 10m 
#'''Suprise,Suprise-E1, 5b''' A faint line of flakes then direct above. 10m 
#'''Waiting Game - HVS, 5a''' Glaringly obvious layback flake.10m 

===Every persons Wall===
Just outside the narrows of the second inlet is a short wall with a beach start. Either top out and belay on nuts or rusty plate thread(stolen) or lower off the top twizzle and retrieve later
#'''Medusa Spares No Head Fr6a+''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Prometheus Bound Fr 5+''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Oceanus Aches Fr 6a''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Dodecanese Dalliance Fr 5''' Easiest of the bunch.5.69m 

====Cave Inlet====

[[Image:Temple cave wall.jpg|thumb|right|700px|'''Cave Inlet''']]
[[Image:Goi temple2.jpg|thumb|500px|Goi Ashmore on ''Nietzche's Niche'']]

''Continue around the corner east(right) to a small patch of sand and a taller section with a pillar and cave up and right.''
#'''Jericho E3 5c''' A deep water solo.Climb across from the fishermans ledge near the old sign board then up to a rubbly exit.15m 
#'''Debasement of Jericho VS 4b''' Could be a handy no water start to the previous or a solo in it's own right.The shorter of the two chimneys on the left.5m''' 
#'''The Barnacle Bill-Fr6b''' Short steep prow,take barnacled arete direct then exit on left to Fisher persons ledge and long sling belay over top.5.69m 
#'''Canaan Grunts HVS 4c''' The barnacled chimney starting from the sand grind your way up to the ledge.10m 
#'''Hundred Years Of Reflection Fr 6b+**''' (Not marked on topo) Reach the first holds swing up then stiff barnacle rasping gains a contorted rest,heartbraker mantle onto the ledge joined by Zaccheus Repents.13.69m. 
#'''Dolce Et Decorum Est -Fr 6b+**''' Swing in from the right,over the roof to join previous then straight up to new chain belay.14m 
#'''Zacchaeus Repents Fr-6b+*''' The crinkly prow breaking out early from next route.14m 
#'''Chargeable Event Fr-6a*''' The barnacled scoop and corner to shared belay above ledge.14m. 
#'''Lips Off Your Shofarot Fr-6a *''' Just to the right a barnacled wall leads to bridging up the slabby groove(purple thread).15m. ''At a higher level is the other cave which gives a little more time if climbing on an incoming tide.Best approached from the east via the "walled garden" approach if the tide has not cleared witches tip.There are no lower offs at present as it is assumed the sensible will use the routes to exit the area.Good belay on the ledge at the top of the crag,long slings could be arranged for lower offs.Due to theft of the bolt hangers off the platform bring your own+spanner or easier a couple of pulled through wire to hook the bolts.There are sufficient glue ins to construct a belay if this proves too taxing.'' 
#'''Lane Discipline Fr 6a*''' The groove ,can be started from sea level or at higher tides step easily across from the cave ledge.14m. LO. 
#'''Hogging The Mid Lane Fr 6b *''' Start just left of the cave passing a twizzle.Steep jug hauling leads to a long stretch and LO just below the ledge.15m. 
#'''Life In The Slow Lane Fr 6b+ **''' Swing on up the left arete of the cave.Lower off can be arranged first or pull over easily.15m. 
#'''(PROJECT-OPEN)Pull Onto The Hard Shoulder Fr 7?''' The roof,some bolts yet to be placed. 
#'''Quiet Flows The Jordan Fr-5''' The blocky right side of the cave,swing on up to good belay at the top.10m 
#'''Sultan's Spring Fr-5+''' A tricky bounce to start then jugs to the top.10m 
#'''Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 4c''' The faint book corner to the right.9m ''Back down at sea level there is more'' 
#'''Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 5a''' Easy scrambling leds to the hanging arete then step up the ledges to usual belay.12m 
#'''Tumbledown HS 4b''' As before then follow the ramp rightwards.12m ''Right again and at a higher level above the sand is another long cave; in the cave are:-'' 
#'''Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 5a''' Short and sharp, drilled but not filled, pull over the roof then proceed up stepped ledges to the terrace belay.9m. 
#'''Nietzche's Niche Fr.5+ **''' Jug hauling over the "fangs",2 bolt wonder,Lower Off at first wide ledge.9m. 
#'''Reverted Revisionist Fr 6a+ ***''' More excellent jug hauling on the wall left of the big roof.9m. 
#'''Cartesian Dualism Fr 5 **''' Just left of the ''prow'' of the wall.Move right over the bulge to the shared belay.9m. 
#'''Descarte's Dithers Fr 5+ **''' The steep ''prow'' shared belay.9m. 
#'''Archimedes Screws Fr 6a+ **''' It's a topsy turvy world(on big jugs) until you reach the seperate belay.9m. 
#'''The Burning Glass Fr 6b **''' More upside down antics.Not drawn on topo.9m. 
#'''Siege Of Syracuse Fr 6b ***''' More of the same.The route of the crag(so far).10m. 

====The
#'''Rude Buoys HS 4b''' Climb straight up the middle of wall avoiding the mod on the

====Playtime Wall====
[[Image:Playtime-topo.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Playtime Wall]]
The very short tapering wall just right of the scramble up to the fence, suitable for bouldering or beginners. Belays possible with long slings, friends (1.5 - 2) and a few fixed pieces. 
#'''Jim'll Fix It- Vs 5a''' Friend 3.3.69m 
#'''Now Then Now Then- Vs 4c''' Rock 7.3.69m 
#'''Method Of Exhaustion - Hard Severe 4b''' Short. 3.69m. 
#'''Reductio Ad Absurdum- V.Diff''' Nice. 3.69m 
#'''Ad Infinitum-Severe''' Thread at top. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==

===SEA WALLS LEFT===

#E.Jones 1996
#M.Crocker
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#Prof John Harwood 1975
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#Prof J.Harwood 1975
#G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987

====Short Sidewall====
#E.Jones
#EJones

====Breakout Wall====
(seawalls right)

#R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1986
#M.Crocker
#M.Crocker
#R.Thomas G.Royle(rucsac step)1987.Swinging in L from Undercut at the rusty DRILLED peg Martin Crocker 2000+
#S.Robinson M.Learoyd 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#J.Harwood 1975
#J.Harwood 1975
#R.T
#R.T
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987(sitting start-Eugene Travers Jones 1990's)
#M.C
#R.T 1987
#M.L R.T 1986
#R.T M.L 1986

===TEMPLE BAY INLETS===

====First Inlet====
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1986
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas S.Robinson D.Meek
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
#R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
#D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2011
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2010
#R.Thomas 1986

====Second Inlet====
#R.Thomas Eugene Jones 23/11/2014
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 25/03/2015
#Eugene Jones R.Thomas 23/11/2014
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 16/05/2013
#R.Thomas E.Jones 22.09.2014
#project
#Eugene T.Jones G.AShmore 00/10/2014
#R.Thomas E.Jones 00.09.2014
#project
#R.Thomas Two Richies 2013
#R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
#R.Thomas 2011
#G.Ashmore 2012
#R.Thomas 2012
#R.Thomas 2012
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas

====Cave Inlet====
#Martin Crocker
#R.Thomas 1986
#R.Thomas 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 04.07.2014
#R.Thomas R.Leyshan R.Phillips 2011
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas Eugene Travers-Jones 08/03/2014
#R.Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 26.04.2014
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2012
#Project
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas

====The Long Wall====
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#Joe Gallacher, Matt Moore, 23rd June/2015
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 2012

====Playtime Wall====

#R Thomas G. Royle 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas
#R Thomas 1993
#R Thomas G.Royle
#R Thomas (solo) 1986

Temple Bay Inlets

2017-11-18T22:23:57Z

Roy thomas: /* TEMPLE BAY INLETS */

[[image:Temple bay inlets-thumb.jpg|thumb|150px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/temple_bay_inlets.pdf]]

[[Image:TempleBay-Roy-Thomas.jpg|thumb|500px|Roy Thomas on ''Matt of the Iron Gland'', [[Temple Bay Inlets]]. Photo by [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
Sea Walls and Temple Bay Inlets

=PREAMBLE=

A pleasant area of small inlets east of the sea walls of witches point. Revisited and regeared recently. Sunny outlook and solid rock make this a must.

Approach by walking over witches head land(or if lucky with the tides across the beach) to the fisherman's ledges and scrambling down east before the neighbouring temple bay is reached. An abseil from the "wrasse" belay can often save the walk over the headland on the way back.

=BOLTING POLICY=

Bolting permissible, rebolting with FA permission.

=ROUTES=

===SEA WALLS===

''Immediately below the fishermans ledges on the very tip of witches are a number of walls and overhangs offering short sharp routes. Many of the routes were done decades ago and have remained unreported or unrecorded until now.Some of the old pegs and situ gear have been replaced. A fun place to be in the sun.''

[[Image:Sea Walls (left) topo.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Sea Walls (Left) Topo]]

#'''Betty Swallocks''' Bulging arete on left of platform.6m 
#'''It's just bollocks - E2, 6b''' The overhang, gaining and using the black chert hold.6m 
#'''Paternoster - E3, 5c''' The roof,situ threads.10m 
#'''Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b''' The roof and final crack.10m 
#'''Royle Headache - E3, 6b''' Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head and a mat would be handy.10m 
#'''Jilters Wall - E2, 5c''' The narrow white wall,PR.10m 
#'''Professor's Crack - VS, 4b''' The crozzly ramp and crack.10m 
#'''Leg Over - E4, 6a''' Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m 
#'''Pull Over - E3, 6a''' More of the same.Climb direct from the platform(TR)to the large ledge,womble up.10m 
#'''Hand Over - HVS, 5a''' The faint rounded corner gained awkwardly from the next step up.10m 
#'''Gloss Over - E1, 5b''' The right side of the wall left of the long rectangular beam of rock.10m 
#'''No push over - E1/2, 5c''' Gain the beam of rock on the left (Protection possibilities)then flail hopefully onto the top of the beam or if slender in girth squirm through,both methods are harrowing. 10m 
''To the right is an easy escape chimney and a square crinkly block.'' 
#'''Eugene's Over - E1, 5c''' The centre of the block.5m 
#'''Cross Over-?, ?''' The right edge of the block. 5m 
''Around the front again are-''
#'''"How Well It Flows" - HVS, 5b''' The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m 
#'''Arcana E4,5c''' The face right of the ragged crack. 7m. [[Image:Sea wall breakout topo.jpg|700px|thumb|Sea Wall - Breakout Area]][[Image:Fools rush in 2.jpg|700px|thumb|Rich Leyshan - ''Fools Rush In'' 6c+]]
#'''Lysistrata - E5,6a''' Make first moves of "Arcana" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m. 
#'''Bridges End - E3,6b *''' Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of ''Undercut''.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m. 
#'''Undercut - E1, 5c''' The obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m 
#'''Up In Smoke - E3 5c''' Gain the first break(painfully)continue directly up the wall via the peg runner(drilled of course).7m. 
#'''Step Aside - E2, 5c''' The obvious rightward sloping crack,hard to start painful to continue.10m 
#'''Cold Shoulder - HVS, 5b''' Gain the ramp from the left(spike runner in horizontal break.Use pocket in short wall(left) to finish.10m 
#'''Breakout - HVS, 5a''' Pull into the hanging groove ,gain the ramp then take crozzly pockets on right.10m 
#'''Fast Flow 1 - E1, 5b''' Start just right of the groove,gain and climb the brown flowstone(TR).10m 
#'''Fast Flow 2 - E2, 5b''' From the low scoop gain and climb past the drilled thread in the flowstone.10m 
#'''Even Faster Flow - E3,5b''' Even more threads,all drilled of course.10m. 
#'''Aristophanes plays with time - E3, 6a *''' At the right end of the undercut section are some black chert lumps directly under an old yellow thread.Ensure the integrity of your spine with large numbers of bouldering mats or some "thoughtful stick clipping".Devise and execute the sequence of slaps and pulls to reach the break and continue directly up the wall. Try Eugene's sitting start for full value. 10m 
#'''Turn Back Time - E3, 5b''' Joins the two routes on either side.Step up as for next route then take a short traverse left to join the yellow "tat" of the previous route. 10m 
#'''Down The Mists of Time - E2, 5b''' Step up just left of the faint line of Surprise and continue direct past the situ tat. 10m 
#'''Suprise,Suprise-E1, 5b''' A faint line of flakes then direct above. 10m 
#'''Waiting Game - HVS, 5a''' Glaringly obvious layback flake.10m 

===Every persons Wall===
Just outside the narrows of the second inlet is a short wall with a beach start. Either top out and belay on nuts or rusty plate thread(stolen) or lower off the top twizzle and retrieve later
#'''Medusa Spares No Head Fr6a+''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Prometheus Bound Fr 5+''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Oceanus Aches Fr 6a''' Crux at top.5.69m 
#'''Dodecanese Dalliance Fr 5''' Easiest of the bunch.5.69m 

====Cave Inlet====

[[Image:Temple cave wall.jpg|thumb|right|700px|'''Cave Inlet''']]
[[Image:Goi temple2.jpg|thumb|500px|Goi Ashmore on ''Nietzche's Niche'']]

''Continue around the corner east(right) to a small patch of sand and a taller section with a pillar and cave up and right.''
#'''Jericho E3 5c''' A deep water solo.Climb across from the fishermans ledge near the old sign board then up to a rubbly exit.15m 
#'''Debasement of Jericho VS 4b''' Could be a handy no water start to the previous or a solo in it's own right.The shorter of the two chimneys on the left.5m''' 
#'''The Barnacle Bill-Fr6b''' Short steep prow,take barnacled arete direct then exit on left to Fisher persons ledge and long sling belay over top.5.69m 
#'''Canaan Grunts HVS 4c''' The barnacled chimney starting from the sand grind your way up to the ledge.10m 
#'''Hundred Years Of Reflection Fr 6b+**''' (Not marked on topo) Reach the first holds swing up then stiff barnacle rasping gains a contorted rest,heartbraker mantle onto the ledge joined by Zaccheus Repents.13.69m. 
#'''Dolce Et Decorum Est -Fr 6b+**''' Swing in from the right,over the roof to join previous then straight up to new chain belay.14m 
#'''Zacchaeus Repents Fr-6b+*''' The crinkly prow breaking out early from next route.14m 
#'''Chargeable Event Fr-6a*''' The barnacled scoop and corner to shared belay above ledge.14m. 
#'''Lips Off Your Shofarot Fr-6a *''' Just to the right a barnacled wall leads to bridging up the slabby groove(purple thread).15m. ''At a higher level is the other cave which gives a little more time if climbing on an incoming tide.Best approached from the east via the "walled garden" approach if the tide has not cleared witches tip.There are no lower offs at present as it is assumed the sensible will use the routes to exit the area.Good belay on the ledge at the top of the crag,long slings could be arranged for lower offs.Due to theft of the bolt hangers off the platform bring your own+spanner or easier a couple of pulled through wire to hook the bolts.There are sufficient glue ins to construct a belay if this proves too taxing.'' 
#'''Lane Discipline Fr 6a*''' The groove ,can be started from sea level or at higher tides step easily across from the cave ledge.14m. LO. 
#'''Hogging The Mid Lane Fr 6b *''' Start just left of the cave passing a twizzle.Steep jug hauling leads to a long stretch and LO just below the ledge.15m. 
#'''Life In The Slow Lane Fr 6b+ **''' Swing on up the left arete of the cave.Lower off can be arranged first or pull over easily.15m. 
#'''(PROJECT-OPEN)Pull Onto The Hard Shoulder Fr 7?''' The roof,some bolts yet to be placed. 
#'''Quiet Flows The Jordan Fr-5''' The blocky right side of the cave,swing on up to good belay at the top.10m 
#'''Sultan's Spring Fr-5+''' A tricky bounce to start then jugs to the top.10m 
#'''Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 4c''' The faint book corner to the right.9m ''Back down at sea level there is more'' 
#'''Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 5a''' Easy scrambling leds to the hanging arete then step up the ledges to usual belay.12m 
#'''Tumbledown HS 4b''' As before then follow the ramp rightwards.12m ''Right again and at a higher level above the sand is another long cave; in the cave are:-'' 
#'''Consequentialist Perfectionism HVS 5a''' Short and sharp, drilled but not filled, pull over the roof then proceed up stepped ledges to the terrace belay.9m. 
#'''Nietzche's Niche Fr.5+ **''' Jug hauling over the "fangs",2 bolt wonder,Lower Off at first wide ledge.9m. 
#'''Reverted Revisionist Fr 6a+ ***''' More excellent jug hauling on the wall left of the big roof.9m. 
#'''Cartesian Dualism Fr 5 **''' Just left of the ''prow'' of the wall.Move right over the bulge to the shared belay.9m. 
#'''Descarte's Dithers Fr 5+ **''' The steep ''prow'' shared belay.9m. 
#'''Archimedes Screws Fr 6a+ **''' It's a topsy turvy world(on big jugs) until you reach the seperate belay.9m. 
#'''The Burning Glass Fr 6b **''' More upside down antics.Not drawn on topo.9m. 
#'''Siege Of Syracuse Fr 6b ***''' More of the same.The route of the crag(so far).10m. 

====The Long Wall====

[[Image:Temple long wall.jpg|thumb|right|700px|'''The Long Wall''']]
[[Image:For a sea of tears.jpg|700px|right|thumb|Eugene Jones - ''Heading For a Sea of Tears'' - Fr. 5+]]
''Right again the roof of the cave becomes slatted then there is an arete followed by a long wall.It is easy to scramble up to the fence and escape to the main footpath.This is the last area to remain climable on the incoming tide and it is easy to escape the long ledge above the wall by walking east to the fence.''
#'''Socrates Sucks Fr 5+''' The left side of the arete pulling over the roof to start and keeping off the large ledges on the left.8m. 
#'''Kant Hooks Fr 4+**''' The arete to a shared belay passing the block thread,delightful.8m. 
#'''Rude Buoys HS 4b''' Climb straight up the middle of wall avoiding the mod on the right. 8m. 
#'''Sartre Flies -Moderate''' More of a staircase than a route,a handy way to access the ledge.8m. 
#'''Sartre's Underlay VS 4c''' Solo or trad to gain the last step of previous.5m. 
#'''The Carpet BaggerFr.4+''' Two bolts,rock 6 by bootlace thread,easiest line on the wall(so far).8m. 
#'''Fermat's Last Theorem Fr 5''' Row of glue ins above "the only jug on the wall",belay on ledge.8m. 
#'''Oreste's Suffering Fr 6a''' Sharp mean starting moves,belay back on ledge.Long slings needed to set up bottom rope.8m. 
#'''Electra's Revenge Fr 5+''' Purple threads high up same belay as previous.8m. 
#'''Probing Proctologist Fr.6a''' Squeezed in just before the rectangular recess on the right of the wall,avoid this by climbing left of the lower bolts,painful entry for sensitive fingers. 
#'''Heading For A Sea Of Tears Fr.5+''' A right to left girdle of the long wall finishing at ''Sartre's Flies'',clipping the 3rd bolts),best done when the tide is in,a fitting finale.25.69m. 

====Playtime Wall====
[[Image:Playtime-topo.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Playtime Wall]]
The very short tapering wall just right of the scramble up to the fence, suitable for bouldering or beginners. Belays possible with long slings, friends (1.5 - 2) and a few fixed pieces. 
#'''Jim'll Fix It- Vs 5a''' Friend 3.3.69m 
#'''Now Then Now Then- Vs 4c''' Rock 7.3.69m 
#'''Method Of Exhaustion - Hard Severe 4b''' Short. 3.69m. 
#'''Reductio Ad Absurdum- V.Diff''' Nice. 3.69m 
#'''Ad Infinitum-Severe''' Thread at top. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==

===SEA WALLS LEFT===

#E.Jones 1996
#M.Crocker
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#Prof John Harwood 1975
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#Prof J.Harwood 1975
#G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987

====Short Sidewall====
#E.Jones
#EJones

====Breakout Wall====
(seawalls right)

#R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1986
#M.Crocker
#M.Crocker
#R.Thomas G.Royle(rucsac step)1987.Swinging in L from Undercut at the rusty DRILLED peg Martin Crocker 2000+
#S.Robinson M.Learoyd 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#J.Harwood 1975
#J.Harwood 1975
#R.T
#R.T
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987(sitting start-Eugene Travers Jones 1990's)
#M.C
#R.T 1987
#M.L R.T 1986
#R.T M.L 1986

===TEMPLE BAY INLETS===

====First Inlet====
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1986
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas S.Robinson D.Meek
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
#R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
#D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2011
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2010
#R.Thomas 1986

====Second Inlet====
#R.Thomas Eugene Jones 23/11/2014
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 25/03/2015
#Eugene Jones R.Thomas 23/11/2014
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 16/05/2013
#R.Thomas E.Jones 22.09.2014
#project
#Eugene T.Jones G.AShmore 00/10/2014
#R.Thomas E.Jones 00.09.2014
#project
#R.Thomas Two Richies 2013
#R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
#R.Thomas 2011
#G.Ashmore 2012
#R.Thomas 2012
#R.Thomas 2012
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas

====Cave Inlet====
#Martin Crocker
#R.Thomas 1986
#R.Thomas 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 04.07.2014
#R.Thomas R.Leyshan R.Phillips 2011
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas Eugene Travers-Jones 08/03/2014
#R.Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 26.04.2014
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2012
#Project
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas

====The Long Wall====
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#Joe Gallacher, Matt Moore, 23rd June/2015
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 2012

====Playtime Wall====

#R Thomas G. Royle 1986
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R Thomas G.Royle 1987
#R.Thomas
#R Thomas 1993
#R Thomas G.Royle
#R Thomas (solo) 1986

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:13:18Z

Roy thomas: /* The Fat Lady Wall */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:11:24Z

Roy thomas: /* Calcite Bay Right */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:09:47Z

Roy thomas: /* Calcite Bay Left */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:08:21Z

Roy thomas: /* Silent Walls */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:07:22Z

Roy thomas: /* Black Buttress Far Right */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:05:06Z

Roy thomas: /* Veggie Slab */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:03:00Z

Roy thomas: /* Carbon Slab */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:01:57Z

Roy thomas: /* Sinners Walls */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-11-18T22:00:25Z

Roy thomas: /* Black Buttress Right */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013

===Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial, Wedge walls.

#'''Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS - 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*''' The arete, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#''G.G''

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Gelli

2017-11-18T20:23:52Z

Roy thomas: /* Gelli Right */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:down under 1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Chris Gilbert - Down Under (Fr.4+)]]

GR SS 982 945

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Quarried sandstone, the more the merrier.

== PREAMBLE ==
Now regeared will prove popular.

A bit of a flog to get to (10 mins uphill) but catches the late sun and has commanding views down the whole of Rhondda Fawr.

Lots for the Fr. 6a+ and below climber. A few remaining trad routes for the jaded which fitted the description on the "1989 tin" but who knows which "2012 tin" they belong in?

The rock is excellent and compact on the left side of the crag, more brittle on the right. The breezy elevated situation minimises the "midge factor"

If you wan't to top-rope your mates up the routes with fixed anchors kindly follow the accepted protocol and minimise wear by using your own quickdraws until the final go,those who climb outdoors have to learn how to thread an anchor sometime. Feel free to add or discard/replace worn lower offs.

== ACCESS ==
From the M4 Jct.34 take the A4119 highway to the Rhondda Valley arriving at Tonypandy. Do not go into the town but follow the road past the retail centre turning left on the B4223. Pass Glyncornel outdoor centre following the signs for Gelli. Park outside the Gelli Community Recycling Centre then walk left up the track past the sultry goats and well hung donkeys.
{{#display_points:{{Googlemap}}|height=400|zoom=16|centre=51.642345 -3.4777790|service=openlayers|layers=osm-mapnik,,google|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher,mouseposition}}

[[Image:Gelli wide.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Gelli]]
== DESCENTS ==
Old fence posts for some of the trad routes. Sport routes have Lower Offs.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Gelli left===
''Described from left to right facing the crag''
#'''Jockey Club - Fr. 6a **''' Even lefter side, not drawn on topo. 9 m 
#'''Horses Bolted - Fr. 6b **''' The wall past the small roof joining the lower off of previous. 9 m 
#'''Fools On Horses - Fr. 6a+ *''' The left side of the short black wall at the start of the crag. 9 m 
#'''Free Lunch - Fr. 6c''' Line of glue-in bolts. 9.69m. 
#'''Stable Boy's Breakfast - Fr. 6b **''' Results of a broken drill bit. 8 m 
#'''Green Arete - VS, 4c*''' The obvious green arete. A bold airy route. Belay on posts. 11 m 
#'''K.E.S - HVS, 5a **''' Slabby wall right of the arete. Another classic bold must for true climbers. Historic "special" PR near top. 11m. 
#'''Kestrel For A Knave - Fr. 4''' The right side of the slabby wall. 11m 
#'''Joey's Full Pint - Very Open Project''' Life's too short, sometimes you have to leave the very best for those more deserving. Dig your way up the corner. 11 m 
#'''Mr Farthing - Severe''' The crack, jolly bad show not to play with your nuts and clip the handy bolts. 10 m 
#'''Miss Halfpenny - Fr. 4''' Contrived, attempts to climb the red tower, step out of the righthand crack then up the arete. 11m ''To the right is another wall'' 
#'''Feeling Lucky - Fr. 6a *''' 
#'''Wot No Metal - E1, 5c''' The Y-crack just right of the arete. 9 m 
#'''Little Treasure - Fr. 6a+''' Scooped wall. 9 m 
#'''Toil - HVS, 5a''' Faint crack just left of grassy crack, resist the temptation to step into it. 9 m 
#'''My Little Pony's On The Job - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb the left edge of the next wall which is right of the grassy crack. Avoid the crack until just below the top. Shared belay on the right. 10 m 
#'''Galvanised - Fr. 6a+ **''' Curving crack on wall right of grassy crack, move left to belay or use belay above ledge at Fr. 6a. 9 m 
#'''Lost In Time - Fr. 6b+ *''' Forgotten when the old hanger was relocated. Left of the now obvious Pine, first hanger spins hard bouldery start. 9m. 
#'''Hoarse Trader - Fr. 4+''' The arete right of the pine tree. 10 m 
#'''Marinated Goat Cheese - Fr. 4''' Start from the grassy steps a little further right. 9 m 

===Red Walls===
''Down and right is a red wall and an adjacent slab'' 
#'''Squeezing The Curd - Fr. 5''' The short wall at the left side of this section, continue up ''Marinated Goat Cheese'' or walk off. 4 m 
#'''The Babcock Test - Fr. 6b''' Short but sharp, avoid stepping into the bounding cracks. 6 m 
#'''Titanium Man - E1, 5b''' Steep crack R of grassy chimney. Now dug out. 9 m 
#'''Straight From The Frog's Mouth - Fr ?''' Closed Project. 9 m 
#'''Cigarillo - Fr.6b *''' Crack just to right, shared belay above the grass slope. 9 m 
#'''Tobacco King - Fr. 6c+ *''' Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay. 9 m 
#'''Down Under - Fr. 4+ **''' Start at the bottom left side of the slab stepping R, finish more steeply L of the arete. 15m 

===Recessed Wall===
''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor'' 
#'''Working To A Budget - Fr. 4+''' Two stepped walls just left of the tree stump. Fully equipped despite breaking the budget. 13m. 
#'''Hung Like A Donkey - Fr. 6a ''' Left side of wall next to sycamore tree (stump), avoid the crack to the left. 14 m 
#'''All Talk - Fr. 6a+''' The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack, make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step left to shared belay of Hung.... 15 m 
#'''Talking Hoarse - Fr. 5+''' Gain and follow the faint groove. 15 m 
#'''Little Taff - Fr. 6a+ * ''' Thin crack on the left side of wall, belay above small strip roof. 12 m 
#'''Stubborn As A Mule - Fr 5''' Once rubbly crack now cleaned and equipped.Only one carabiner on the belay so either(most inconveniently) leave your own or use belays on adjacent climbs 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Whisperer - Fr. 6b *''' A seriously hollow start but good climbing nevertheless. A trying crux at half height and pumpy thereafter. 12 m 
#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier - Fr. 6b **''' Wall to right immediately left of grassy corner crack, double "twizzle" belay. 12 m 
#'''Something That Came Up Much Later - Fr. 4''' The corner bridging out to a belay on the grass ledge. 12 m 
#'''Unearthed - HS *''' Crack in sidewall then groove above ledge. Shared belay in place just below the top. 12 m 

===Gelli Right===
''On the next wall to the right'' 
#'''Ladyboy's Cage - Fr. 6a''' Can you escape the cage? Do you want to escape the cage? If you try to escape will it make the ladyboy angry? Why are you wearing tight red pants? The left side of the wall via prominent flake to shared belay chain. 8m 
#'''Worzel Budgie Spunker - Fr. 6b+''' Delicate yet brutal route following the crack up and rightwards. Shared belay chain. 
#'''Talking Shop - Fr. 6a''' The vague arete after gaining the left end of the ledge. Take care not to try and use the rubble on the left. 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Breather - Fr. 5+''' Gain the large flake on the ledge, continue on spaced jugs to the shared belay chain of ''Talking Shop''. 12m 
#'''Snorting Horse - E1, 5a''' The diagonal crack starting up ''Talking Shop'' and finishing at the belay of ''Empty Talk''. Be strong don't clip the bolts. 12 m 
#'''Worzel Cloaca Sniffer - Fr. 6a+ *''' Gain the ledge, continue to the flaring crack and pod, single bolt lower off. It is possible to go right and lower off ''Empty Talk'' at a slightly harder Fr. 6b. 12 m 
#'''Empty Talk - Fr.6a *''' Gain the large graffitied ledge, continue steeply to the belay on the tower. 12 m 
#'''Gilding The Lily - Fr. 6a *''' Gain the right side of the ledge. Pull up on big wobblies and lay away off the small blocky roof to gain two magnificent pockets in the wall above. 12 m 
#'''Polishing The Turd - Fr. 5''' The most apt route name in a generation and a classic triumph of extreme cleaning. Shares belay on the left. 12 m 
#'''Ice Station Gelli - Fr. 6a+ *''' Starting from the floor right of the graffitied ledge. Toughest at the start. 12m. 
#'''One In Her Eye - Fr. 6b+ **''' Immediately left of the grassy step with a tricky move at 3rd bolt and pumpy headwall. 12m 
#'''Send In The Specials - Fr. 6a+ *''' Step left from the grassy step at the right side of the wall. 12 m 
#'''Hole In One - Fr. 5+''' Direct from grass step via several large pockets. 10 m ''Follow the track up and right'' 
#'''Donkey Work - Fr. 6a+''' The short, steep wall rising out of a small bay where the track leads up on the right(staples). 8 m 
[[Image:empty talk.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Chris Gilbert - ''Empty Talk'' (Fr.6a)]]

==First Ascents==


GELLI LEFT

#Roy Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill July 2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2013
#Ollie Burrows Hazel Watchorn 22.05.2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore Eugene T. Jones 2013
#Gary Lewis 1989
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#R.Thomas(solo) 17/06/2013
#open project
#R.Thomas 17/06/2013
R.Thomas 17/06/2013
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#Roy Thomas G Royle 1989
#Mick Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#G. Lewis 1989
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 22/05/2012
#R. Thomas G. Royle 1990
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1990
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012

RED WALLS

# R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#G. Royle R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1990
#Closed Project
#M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1990
#M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes, R.Thomas 1990
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd, G Royle, L.Foulkes

RECESSED WALL
#R.Thomas(solo) 26/05/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22/05/2013
#R.Thomas D. Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, L. Foulkes, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R,Leyshon, R.Phillips 03/05/2013
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, E.Rees, D.Emanuel 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas, solo 1989

GELLI RIGHT
#D.Emanuel Ed Rees 2012
#D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1989
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 25/07/2012
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 24/04/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 15/05/2013
#M.Learoyd, G.Lewis 1990
#R. Thomas, N. O'Neill Aug 2012
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 1990
#G. Lewis, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R.Phillips, R.Leyshan 22/05/2012

Gelli

2017-11-18T20:22:32Z

Roy thomas: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:down under 1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Chris Gilbert - Down Under (Fr.4+)]]

GR SS 982 945

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Quarried sandstone, the more the merrier.

== PREAMBLE ==
Now regeared will prove popular.

A bit of a flog to get to (10 mins uphill) but catches the late sun and has commanding views down the whole of Rhondda Fawr.

Lots for the Fr. 6a+ and below climber. A few remaining trad routes for the jaded which fitted the description on the "1989 tin" but who knows which "2012 tin" they belong in?

The rock is excellent and compact on the left side of the crag, more brittle on the right. The breezy elevated situation minimises the "midge factor"

If you wan't to top-rope your mates up the routes with fixed anchors kindly follow the accepted protocol and minimise wear by using your own quickdraws until the final go,those who climb outdoors have to learn how to thread an anchor sometime. Feel free to add or discard/replace worn lower offs.

== ACCESS ==
From the M4 Jct.34 take the A4119 highway to the Rhondda Valley arriving at Tonypandy. Do not go into the town but follow the road past the retail centre turning left on the B4223. Pass Glyncornel outdoor centre following the signs for Gelli. Park outside the Gelli Community Recycling Centre then walk left up the track past the sultry goats and well hung donkeys.
{{#display_points:{{Googlemap}}|height=400|zoom=16|centre=51.642345 -3.4777790|service=openlayers|layers=osm-mapnik,,google|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher,mouseposition}}

[[Image:Gelli wide.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Gelli]]
== DESCENTS ==
Old fence posts for some of the trad routes. Sport routes have Lower Offs.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Gelli left===
''Described from left to right facing the crag''
#'''Jockey Club - Fr. 6a **''' Even lefter side, not drawn on topo. 9 m 
#'''Horses Bolted - Fr. 6b **''' The wall past the small roof joining the lower off of previous. 9 m 
#'''Fools On Horses - Fr. 6a+ *''' The left side of the short black wall at the start of the crag. 9 m 
#'''Free Lunch - Fr. 6c''' Line of glue-in bolts. 9.69m. 
#'''Stable Boy's Breakfast - Fr. 6b **''' Results of a broken drill bit. 8 m 
#'''Green Arete - VS, 4c*''' The obvious green arete. A bold airy route. Belay on posts. 11 m 
#'''K.E.S - HVS, 5a **''' Slabby wall right of the arete. Another classic bold must for true climbers. Historic "special" PR near top. 11m. 
#'''Kestrel For A Knave - Fr. 4''' The right side of the slabby wall. 11m 
#'''Joey's Full Pint - Very Open Project''' Life's too short, sometimes you have to leave the very best for those more deserving. Dig your way up the corner. 11 m 
#'''Mr Farthing - Severe''' The crack, jolly bad show not to play with your nuts and clip the handy bolts. 10 m 
#'''Miss Halfpenny - Fr. 4''' Contrived, attempts to climb the red tower, step out of the righthand crack then up the arete. 11m ''To the right is another wall'' 
#'''Feeling Lucky - Fr. 6a *''' 
#'''Wot No Metal - E1, 5c''' The Y-crack just right of the arete. 9 m 
#'''Little Treasure - Fr. 6a+''' Scooped wall. 9 m 
#'''Toil - HVS, 5a''' Faint crack just left of grassy crack, resist the temptation to step into it. 9 m 
#'''My Little Pony's On The Job - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb the left edge of the next wall which is right of the grassy crack. Avoid the crack until just below the top. Shared belay on the right. 10 m 
#'''Galvanised - Fr. 6a+ **''' Curving crack on wall right of grassy crack, move left to belay or use belay above ledge at Fr. 6a. 9 m 
#'''Lost In Time - Fr. 6b+ *''' Forgotten when the old hanger was relocated. Left of the now obvious Pine, first hanger spins hard bouldery start. 9m. 
#'''Hoarse Trader - Fr. 4+''' The arete right of the pine tree. 10 m 
#'''Marinated Goat Cheese - Fr. 4''' Start from the grassy steps a little further right. 9 m 

===Red Walls===
''Down and right is a red wall and an adjacent slab'' 
#'''Squeezing The Curd - Fr. 5''' The short wall at the left side of this section, continue up ''Marinated Goat Cheese'' or walk off. 4 m 
#'''The Babcock Test - Fr. 6b''' Short but sharp, avoid stepping into the bounding cracks. 6 m 
#'''Titanium Man - E1, 5b''' Steep crack R of grassy chimney. Now dug out. 9 m 
#'''Straight From The Frog's Mouth - Fr ?''' Closed Project. 9 m 
#'''Cigarillo - Fr.6b *''' Crack just to right, shared belay above the grass slope. 9 m 
#'''Tobacco King - Fr. 6c+ *''' Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay. 9 m 
#'''Down Under - Fr. 4+ **''' Start at the bottom left side of the slab stepping R, finish more steeply L of the arete. 15m 

===Recessed Wall===
''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor'' 
#'''Working To A Budget - Fr. 4+''' Two stepped walls just left of the tree stump. Fully equipped despite breaking the budget. 13m. 
#'''Hung Like A Donkey - Fr. 6a ''' Left side of wall next to sycamore tree (stump), avoid the crack to the left. 14 m 
#'''All Talk - Fr. 6a+''' The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack, make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step left to shared belay of Hung.... 15 m 
#'''Talking Hoarse - Fr. 5+''' Gain and follow the faint groove. 15 m 
#'''Little Taff - Fr. 6a+ * ''' Thin crack on the left side of wall, belay above small strip roof. 12 m 
#'''Stubborn As A Mule - Fr 5''' Once rubbly crack now cleaned and equipped.Only one carabiner on the belay so either(most inconveniently) leave your own or use belays on adjacent climbs 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Whisperer - Fr. 6b *''' A seriously hollow start but good climbing nevertheless. A trying crux at half height and pumpy thereafter. 12 m 
#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier - Fr. 6b **''' Wall to right immediately left of grassy corner crack, double "twizzle" belay. 12 m 
#'''Something That Came Up Much Later - Fr. 4''' The corner bridging out to a belay on the grass ledge. 12 m 
#'''Unearthed - HS *''' Crack in sidewall then groove above ledge. Shared belay in place just below the top. 12 m 

===Gelli Right===
''On the next wall to the right''
[[Image:Gelli right from corner.jpg|700px|thumb|right|none|Gelli Right]] 
#'''Ladyboy's Cage - Fr. 6a''' Can you escape the cage? Do you want to escape the cage? If you try to escape will it make the ladyboy angry? Why are you wearing tight red pants? The left side of the wall via prominent flake to shared belay chain. 8m 
#'''Worzel Budgie Spunker - Fr. 6b+''' Delicate yet brutal route following the crack up and rightwards. Shared belay chain. 
#'''Talking Shop - Fr. 6a''' The vague arete after gaining the left end of the ledge. Take care not to try and use the rubble on the left. 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Breather - Fr. 5+''' Gain the large flake on the ledge, continue on spaced jugs to the shared belay chain of ''Talking Shop''. 12m 
#'''Snorting Horse - E1, 5a''' The diagonal crack starting up ''Talking Shop'' and finishing at the belay of ''Empty Talk''. Be strong don't clip the bolts. 12 m 
#'''Worzel Cloaca Sniffer - Fr. 6a+ *''' Gain the ledge, continue to the flaring crack and pod, single bolt lower off. It is possible to go right and lower off ''Empty Talk'' at a slightly harder Fr. 6b. 12 m 
#'''Empty Talk - Fr.6a *''' Gain the large graffitied ledge, continue steeply to the belay on the tower. 12 m 
#'''Gilding The Lily - Fr. 6a *''' Gain the right side of the ledge. Pull up on big wobblies and lay away off the small blocky roof to gain two magnificent pockets in the wall above. 12 m 
#'''Polishing The Turd - Fr. 5''' The most apt route name in a generation and a classic triumph of extreme cleaning. Shares belay on the left. 12 m 
#'''Ice Station Gelli - Fr. 6a+ *''' Starting from the floor right of the graffitied ledge. Toughest at the start. 12m. 
#'''One In Her Eye - Fr. 6b+ **''' Immediately left of the grassy step with a tricky move at 3rd bolt and pumpy headwall. 12m 
#'''Send In The Specials - Fr. 6a+ *''' Step left from the grassy step at the right side of the wall. 12 m 
#'''Hole In One - Fr. 5+''' Direct from grass step via several large pockets. 10 m ''Follow the track up and right'' 
#'''Donkey Work - Fr. 6a+''' The short, steep wall rising out of a small bay where the track leads up on the right(staples). 8 m 
[[Image:empty talk.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Chris Gilbert - ''Empty Talk'' (Fr.6a)]]

==First Ascents==


GELLI LEFT

#Roy Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill July 2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2013
#Ollie Burrows Hazel Watchorn 22.05.2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore Eugene T. Jones 2013
#Gary Lewis 1989
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#R.Thomas(solo) 17/06/2013
#open project
#R.Thomas 17/06/2013
R.Thomas 17/06/2013
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#Roy Thomas G Royle 1989
#Mick Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#G. Lewis 1989
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 22/05/2012
#R. Thomas G. Royle 1990
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1990
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012

RED WALLS

# R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#G. Royle R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1990
#Closed Project
#M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1990
#M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes, R.Thomas 1990
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd, G Royle, L.Foulkes

RECESSED WALL
#R.Thomas(solo) 26/05/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22/05/2013
#R.Thomas D. Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, L. Foulkes, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R,Leyshon, R.Phillips 03/05/2013
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, E.Rees, D.Emanuel 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas, solo 1989

GELLI RIGHT
#D.Emanuel Ed Rees 2012
#D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1989
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 25/07/2012
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 24/04/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 15/05/2013
#M.Learoyd, G.Lewis 1990
#R. Thomas, N. O'Neill Aug 2012
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 1990
#G. Lewis, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R.Phillips, R.Leyshan 22/05/2012

Cwm Dimbath

2017-11-18T09:44:08Z

Roy thomas: /* Lower Rift */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR 947902
==PREAMBLE==
The crag consists of a natural rift that has been quarried in some parts to form two distinct areas. The lower rift is more extensive in size and height and has some routes on natural sandstone. This is a very good crag, unfortunately plagued by lichen. At the time of writing all the routes will require some cleaning.

A little more traffic should keep them in a reasonable state. Some routes remain dry in the rain, even after a prolonged spell, but seepage can be a problem, particularly during the winter. Midges are a real pain in summer after 7 pm. Take midge cream, a heavy smoker, or an alarm clock that only has 6 hours on it to confuse the little sods.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A4061 from the M4 at [[wikipedia:Sarn,_Bridgend|Sarn]] through [[wikipedia:Bryncethin|Bryncethin]] to [[wikipedia:Blackmill|Blackmill]]. Turn right along the A4093 towards [[wikipedia:Gilfach Goch|Gilfach Goch]] and follow this road for 1/2 mile until Glynllan estate is reached. Turn left into Dimbath Avenue and follow it through an estate, continuing down a country lane until a ford is reached. Park here. This point can also be reached by travelling westwards along the A4093 from [[wikipedia:Tonyrefail|Tonyrefail]] and turning right opposite the church in Glynogwr. Having parked at the ford, walk up the river following the path on the true right bank for ¾ mile, until a gravel forest track doubles back rightwards and up the hill. Follow this until the track straightens after a left-hand bend, where there is currently a tree covered in white paint. Follow a path up into the forest to arrive at the lower rift.

==THE ROUTES==

From right to left as one approaches them:

===Lower Rift===
#'''Across The River - VS, 4c''' Immediately upon turning right to enter the main rift is a prominent short arete on the right side. 8m. 
#'''Into The Trees - VS, 4b''' 6m to the left is another obvious cleaned arete of natural sandstone. 8m. 
#'''Groucher - VS, 4c''' The rounded arete to the left. 8m. 
#'''Midget Gem (Whinger) HVS 5a *''' 6m to the left is a scoop running from a ledge to a prominent tree. 8m. 
#'''Moaner - VS, 4c''' Left again is a steep wall with a PR at 5m and an arete to its right. Start on the ledge to the right of the arete and layback the sharp arete facing left, passing a useful Friend slot en route. 8m. 
#'''Teaching Granny - E1, 5c *''' Climb the steep wall past the PR, trending right to finish.9m. 
#'''Huff And Puff - HVS, 4c''' The next arete to the left. 9m. 
#'''Sucking Eggs - E3, 6a ***''' Tackle the strikingly obvious leaning sharp arete to the left, PR. Perhaps the best route on natural sandstone
#'''At Your Convenience Fr. 6b+ *''' Climb the overhanging wall to the left(4PRs) to the BB of ''Sucking Eggs''. 12m. 
#'''Phil’s Ammonia - E1, 5b''' Over to the left is a blunt arete forming the left-hand side of a gully. Start at the base of the mossy slab and wander up this to gain the arete. Climb the arete, 2PRs, to a large ledge and either top out or lower off a pre-placed rope. 18m. 
#'''Sal’s Ammoniac - E2 ,5c''' To the left are two vague towers. This route climbs the front face of the left hand tower, with a tricky start, PR and the spectacular overhang above, PR, to a BB. 15m. 
#'''Teddy Bear’s Picnic - Fr 5+''' Climb the large left wall of the corner directly up its centre passing recently installed bolts. 15m. 
#'''closed project''' Awaiting midge free times and a belayer. 
#'''closed project''' similar 
#'''Coming On Strong - E5, 6b ***''' Brilliant albeit somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour. Climb the overhanging crack past a wide niche, PR and a situ wire to the overhang. Thug through the roof and up the overhanging crack (Friends ½ and 1½), BB. 21m. 
#'''Where The Power Lies - E6, 6b *** '''Awesome, spacious and decidedly uphill. Climb the blatantly obvious crack starting from a ledge at 2m, to a baffling move through the roof. Shakeout, crank up for a good jug and finish by jug hauling and a couple of jams to the chain. Several PRs. 21m. [[Image:cwm dimbath 2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|]] 
#'''Haven’t A Clue - Fr. 7a+ **''' The obvious and deceptively powerful blunt arete down and to the left, passing 4BRs to a BB out to the left. A bit run out in the central section. 15m. 
#'''If You Go Down To The Woods Today - E4, 6a **''' The thin cracks in the wall to the left contain a couple of long, powerful locks, with shaky gear in the central section. Friends are useful to protect the exit onto the upper slab, and a Friend ½ is very useful at 10m. BB.15m. ''There is a project up the wall to the left (''Recurring Pantomime'').'' 
#'''Big Surprise - E1, 5b''' The ‘offwidth’ to the left. 15m. 
#'''Day Of The Mastodon - HVS, 5a *''' Climb the obvious flying arete at the extreme left hand end of this section of wall before the larger bank and the upper rift. 15m. 
#'''Burdizzo - E1, 5b''' Opposite ''Phil’s Ammonia'' on the other side of the rift is a small scoop with some painted graffiti. Climb the scoop direct past a PR, to finish. 

===Upper Rift===
''Up and left from the Lower Rift is the Upper Rift.''

#'''Trickie - VS, 4b''' An obvious small buttress, overhanging on its left-hand side just left of a grass col provides this route, which climbs onto the obvious small ledge, moves up and then traverses right under the overhang to finish. 8m. 
#'''Trieksodeephobia - HVS, 5a''' Climb onto the small ledge as for ''Trickie'', but continue direct to finish (The finish can be reached directly, via a boulder problem through the overlaps). 9m. 
#'''No. 7 Climb - VS, 4c''' Climb the filthy groove 9m to the left until a step left can be made onto a slabby wall. Probably best left to the lichen. 12m. [[Image:cwm dimbath 3.jpg|500px|thumb|right|]] 
#'''Consuming Passion - HVS, 5b''' Around to the left is a fine wall with a prominent right to left ramp up its centre. Climb the prominent crack to the right of the ramp, finishing direct. 18m. 
#'''Unnamed - E6, 6b''' The chipped wall to the left (the first ascensionist was not responsible for the chips), to gain the finish of ''Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge''. 16m. 
#'''Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge - E3, 5c **''' Climb the prominent diagonal ramp (good wires) until level with the underside of the capping roof. Step right, and follow a series of slots over the overhangs to finish direct up the centre of the buttress (crux). 18m. 
#'''Wild Pussy - E2, 5b''' Start by some graffiti 5m left of the last routes. Climb the conspicuous left-trending blocky faultline into a niche and finish direct to the left of an obvious tree. A difficult start. 15m. 
#'''Grit Expectations - E4, 5c''' Climb the recessed wall 8m left of ''Wild Pussy'' direct via a break, a blind flake (poor Rock 2) to a rounded break, poor Friend. Make crux moves upto the overlap and finish more easily. 14m. 
#'''The Creaming Codpiece - E2, 5c''' The prominent slab to the left, with an undercut base, PRs. 12m. 
#'''Bitter End - E1, 5b *''' Climb the wall to the left starting up an overhanging groove and finishing direct past a PR. 14m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
====LOWER RIFT====

#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1990 
#E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1991 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.05.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 21.04.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 29.04.1990 
#P.Lewis, A.Sharp 21.04.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990 
#R.Thomas Pre-1991 


====UPPER RIFT====

#G.Lewis 00.00.1990 
#G.Lewis, A.Burke 00.00.1990 
#G.Lewis, A.Keward 00.00.1990 
#H.Griffiths, L.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#J.Sykes Pre-1999 
#A.Burke, E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990 
#H.Griffiths,E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 04.10.1997 
#R.Thomas Pre-1991

Sugardaddy Gasworks

2017-11-18T09:39:02Z

Roy thomas: /* SECOND WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:SD3.jpg|400 px|thumb|RIGHT|Entrance Wall]]
==BOLTING POLICY==
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionists permission. New sports route allowed. Please help your selves to the projects, even the bolted ones. All 'projects' can be considered free for the taking.

==PREAMBLE==
A small quarry of good sandstone. The back areas take a long time to dry.

==ACCESS==
NGR: ST 06609 86601

Located in the woods to the rear of Beddau Coking Works. Park by the housing in front of the Coke Works. The track along the west side of the former Coke Works is a Public Right of Way (but not for vehicles). Follow this to the rear of the coke works where the road goes through a gate, curves left. After the curve a track goes up the slight slope. Follow this through some trees. The track continues and a left branch leads eventually to a pond - ignore this branch - soon after the path crosses a stream (often dry) and after one can see a slight valley to the left. Follow this into the quarry. If you pass an old electricity building you've walked too far.

==DESCENT==
All routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

==ROUTES==
[[Image:SDT.jpg|400 px|thumb|right|Topo Enrtance Wall]]
''Described from left to right.''

===Entrance Wall===

#'''Little Licker - Fr. 5''' Short wall in left side of quarry. 
#'''Lolita's Lolly - Fr. 6a''' Delicate pockety. 
#'''Barnacle Bills' Masturbatarium Fr 6c)''' Sustained climbing up the thin crack. 
#'''Beef Honeycombe - Fr. 6b''' Pocketed wall above the stump, over the small roof on its left side. 
#'''Daddy Still Loves You - Fr. 6a+''' Follow the series of small ledges to the left of the arete, over the small roof.

[[Image:SDB.jpg|300 px|thumb|right|Second Wall]]

===Back Wall===

''Further delights may reside in the damp vegetated recesses at the back of the quarry.''

==FIRST ASCENTS==

Entrance Wall

#R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 21/05/2011
#R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 14/05/2011
# D. Emanuel
#D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
#D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011

Second Wall

#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel

Right-Hand Slabs

#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel

Sugardaddy Gasworks

2017-11-18T09:38:08Z

Roy thomas: /* Right-Hand Slabs */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:SD3.jpg|400 px|thumb|RIGHT|Entrance Wall]]
==BOLTING POLICY==
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionists permission. New sports route allowed. Please help your selves to the projects, even the bolted ones. All 'projects' can be considered free for the taking.

==PREAMBLE==
A small quarry of good sandstone. The back areas take a long time to dry.

==ACCESS==
NGR: ST 06609 86601

Located in the woods to the rear of Beddau Coking Works. Park by the housing in front of the Coke Works. The track along the west side of the former Coke Works is a Public Right of Way (but not for vehicles). Follow this to the rear of the coke works where the road goes through a gate, curves left. After the curve a track goes up the slight slope. Follow this through some trees. The track continues and a left branch leads eventually to a pond - ignore this branch - soon after the path crosses a stream (often dry) and after one can see a slight valley to the left. Follow this into the quarry. If you pass an old electricity building you've walked too far.

==DESCENT==
All routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

==ROUTES==
[[Image:SDT.jpg|400 px|thumb|right|Topo Enrtance Wall]]
''Described from left to right.''

===Entrance Wall===

#'''Little Licker - Fr. 5''' Short wall in left side of quarry. 
#'''Lolita's Lolly - Fr. 6a''' Delicate pockety. 
#'''Barnacle Bills' Masturbatarium Fr 6c)''' Sustained climbing up the thin crack. 
#'''Beef Honeycombe - Fr. 6b''' Pocketed wall above the stump, over the small roof on its left side. 
#'''Daddy Still Loves You - Fr. 6a+''' Follow the series of small ledges to the left of the arete, over the small roof.

===SECOND WALL===

''Around the arete lies the taller, slightly overhanging ''Second Wall''.''

#'''Project''' 
#'''Project''' 
#'''Yosemite Clam - (A1/A2) ''' The leaning crack at the back of the second wall suffers seepage but offers entertaining aid climbing. Ascend the crack past the small roof to lower-off. Requires thin knifeblade pitons.
[[Image:SDB.jpg|300 px|thumb|right|Second Wall]]

===Back Wall===

''Further delights may reside in the damp vegetated recesses at the back of the quarry.''

==FIRST ASCENTS==

Entrance Wall

#R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 21/05/2011
#R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 14/05/2011
# D. Emanuel
#D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
#D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011

Second Wall

#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel

Right-Hand Slabs

#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel
#Project - D. Emanuel

Machen

2017-11-18T09:35:17Z

Roy thomas: /* VAGINISMUS WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]

'''Craig y Priapism'''

==Bolting Policy==

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist's permission. New sports route allowed.

==Preamble==

A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?

==Access==

(NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)

==Descent==

All routes will have lower-offs.
==Routes==

==VAGINISMUS Wall===

[[Image:Priapism Arete.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Priapism Arete]]

Great Tor Proper

2017-11-12T12:43:40Z

Roy thomas: /* The Col Routes */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:South edge great tor.JPG|750px|thumb|right|Gary Burkhardt on ''South Edge'']]

'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
The upper tier is non-tidal. Climbs on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are accessible 1½ - 2 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Routes on the upper tier terminate at the approach col, so refer to the notes below.

Descent from routes on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are made by following the path leading to the beach from the non-tidal platform on the west side of the tor, or by scrambling back to beach level on the east.

Great Tor is the prominent headland situated east of '''[[Little Tor]]'''. Climbs on the lower tier are best accessed from Tor Bay
beach as described in the access for '''[[Little Tor]]'''.

Climbs on the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|Upper Tier]]''' are best accessed from the path running to
the headland, which reaches the second of two cols just before Great Tor proper. The eastern (left) branch is followed
to reach the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The_Col_Routes|Col routes]]''' and the start of '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#East_Ridge_Area|East Ridge]]'''. '''[[Great Tor East]]''' is also accessible from this path. The western (right) branch leads down past the Northern Upper Tier and can be followed all the way down to the beach, consequently
reaching the Lower Tier.

It is possible to scramble round the entire Tor from the base of either gully at an easy
standard, at well above high tide level.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Great Tor Upper Tier ===
The front face of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|upper tier]]''' is heavily vegetated, and there are no routes at present. The routes that do exist are clustered around the east and west flanks. Moving down the east branch of the col, to get to ''East Ridge'', the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The Col Routes|Col routes]]''' are visible on the landward side of the gully.

=== The Col Routes ===
At the top of the inland side of the east descent gully from the neck of the tor, lie a series of grooves and ribs. Although
these appear vegetated, the routes are clean and are on good juggy rock.

[[Image:Jayne-great_tor.jpg|thumb|450px|Jayne on ''Shag - VDiff'']]
1. '''Shag''' 15m VD

Climb the left most arete on jugs after a tricky start.

''D.Irving, C.Shorrock 00.00.1999''

2. '''Kestrel''' 15m S

The narrow wall between Shag and the cave leads to a bulge. Either skirt this on the left before returning to the corner, or climb the corner direct at the same grade.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

3. '''Cormorant''' 18m VD

The groove right of the cave contains an arete. Climb this with occasional help from the left edge of the groove.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

4. '''Magpie''' 21m S *

The groove to the right of ''Comorant'', containing two bulges.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

5. '''Chough''' 21m VD

he bulbous arete and grooved arete above and to the right of ''Magpie''.

''D.Irving 00.00.1999''

6. '''Wandl''' 12m HS,4c

Up and right a steep crack leaves a grassy bay. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

7. '''Cratered wall arete''' 9m VS, 5a

To the right of the previous routes there is a large cave which is worth exploring. The compact steep little wall to the right of this contains interesting craters. This route takes the left arete

''C. Wyatt 19.05.11''

===East Ridge Area===
At the base of the east gully is a non tidal platform. Scramble round southward (out to sea and above the high tide level) to a good ledge, just before the east arete proper. Here is a prominent clean finger crack, marking the start of
''East Ridge''.

7. '''Ginger Groover''' 18m VD

Follow the vague grooves just right of the arete and 2m left of East Ridge, via two bulges. Amble off or continue as for ''East Ridge''.

''B.Merrifield 00.00.1998''

8. '''East Ridge''' 73m S,-,-,-,- ***

Excellent positions, splendid climbing and good gear, weaving around the East Ridge of the Tor. Pitches 3 and 4 are usually run together.
#18m Climb the crack in the wall and either step right, or follow the groove above to exit at a wide ledge.
#18m From the west end of the terrace climb a groove in the seaward face of the ridge before continuing up the arete to a stance by a flake.
#13m Follow the splendidly exposed arete to a grassy stance.
#24m Wander up the rest of the arete and the slabs above to belay on the summit, with superb views.

'' A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

9. '''East Ridge Variations''' 73m HS,4b,4b ***

Good variations on the first two pitches of the parent route. Start 2m right of ''East Ridge'' beneath twin cracks.
#17m Follow the twin cracks steeply to an easing before a wide ledge.
#17m The crack in the centre of the back wall leads initially via polished holds to the ridge and the tradtional finish of ''East Ridge''.

''Unknown Pre-1970''

=== Westwards from the Col ===
Further left, the shelves lead to the ledge at the top of the Great Flake area of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|Lower Tier]]'''.

There is a north-facing leaning wall about 50m down the banking.

10. '''Scrambled slab''' 12m VS 4b

Take the slab on left of ''Southern Freeze'' and ''Gower Kut'' on its left hand side. Distinct paucity of protection and gets serious. Alternatively use side runners! This pitch is surprisingly worthwhile.

''C. Wyatt solo 18.05.2011''

11. '''Gower Kut''' 18m E6,6b

Pain! The thin cracks in the pillar of rock, PRs.

''J.Talbot, D. Thomas - North Face A1 00.00.1959, FFA G.Ashmore 31.05.1998''

12. '''Southern Freeze''' 18m E1,5b

The cracks right of ''Gower Kut'' starting from a grassy scoop. Good to start, but deteriorates after the ledge.

''J.Harwood, A.Sharp 24.01.1980''

13. '''Mistral''' 25m E4,6a **

Amenable for the grade. Start as for Southern Freeze. Balance up the groove in the arete and reach a sloping ledge at 4m. Step right onto the arete PR and climb it with technical moves, PR, to bigger holds slightly right. Pull onto the capping slab and walk off onto the summit.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 21.03.1999''

The next route starts at a much lower level, at the base of a slab.

14. '''North Corner''' 39m HVS,5a

The stepped corner. Climb the quartz-flecked slab until it is possible to move left to the foot of the corner. Finish up the final slab. The route is vegetated and the grade may no longer be accurate.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

The next two routes are on the narrow west facing edge of the Tor, seaward from North Corner and facing back
towards Little Tor.

14. '''Direct''' 42m E1,5a

Start below the narrow west face at an easy-angled calcite-flecked slab some way up the beach. Follow a direct line up the centre of the west face with poor protection.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

15. '''South Edge''' 42m HS,4a

Start as for Direct. Climb the right edge of the slab to its top. The rock needs care in the upper reaches.

J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959

===Great Tor Lower Tier===
[[Image:Great tor west overview.jpg|center|800px|thumb|[[#Great Tor Lower Tier|Great Tor Lower Tier]]]]
Routes on the lower tier are described from west to east (left to right facing inland), as approached from Tor Beach.

The first area of rock encountered is a small twin slab lying midway along the west side of the headland. The left twin
is lower, the right twin contains a deep crack running to three-quarters height.

There is a 4m boulder problem up the left-hand slab (''Bulge, 4b, C.Andrews 1959'').

[[Image:Two cracks area-2.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Two Cracks Area]]
1. '''Two Cracks''' 7m HS,4b

Follow the crack stepping right into a second where it ends.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

2. '''Piton Climb''' 7m VS,5a

Climb the wall just right of ''Two Cracks''. Step left into the crack at its top and move up and left to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

A little to the right of ''Piton Climb'' is a sheer south-facing slab.

3. '''Dimpletown''' 10m E3,6a *

A little gem. From the lowest part of the slab climb direct on small holds. A Bristol blade PR at half-height protects.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

The wall now turns to face west. The prominent features of the wall are a left-slanting crack with a narrow black
corner 5m to the right and a sharp arete 5m right again. Beyond this is an obvious chimney (West Chimney).

4. '''Only The Hardy''' 10m E1,5a

Climb the wall and shallow groove 2m left of a prominent left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

5. '''The Grunting Professor''' 9m E1,5c

The left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

[[Image:Great tor lower tier west wall.jpg|thumb|700px|right|'''Great Tor Lower Tier''' - West Wall]]
6. '''Blow Monica''' 9m E1,5c

Start 2m left of the crack leading into the narrow black corner. Work up to a brown flake groove and take pockets to the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

7. '''The Cramps In The Cold''' 10m E2,5c

Good climbing. Follow good, widely spaced holds 2m left of the arete of the black corner, finishing immediately left of a wide crystalline crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

8. '''Mighty Mouse''' 10m HVS,5b

Start to the right, about 2m left of the black corner of ''Third Time Lucky''. Climb the wall direct via a thin crack and shallow groove to the top.

''J.Harwood, M.Ismail 01.05.1999''

9. '''Third Time Lucky''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the narrow black corner.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

10. '''The Ramp With No Holds''' 10m E3,6a

Gain and climb the shallow ramp right of the narrow black corner to a jug. Finish direct past the stuck on jug.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

11. '''Term Of Office''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the crack on the left side of the arete to the right.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

[[Image:Great tor south walls.jpg|thumb|rigt|700px|South Walls]]
Moving seaward from the cracked slab is a series of steep low walls, terminating in an obvious arete, beyond which
lies an obvious chimney.

12. '''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's''' 12m VS,4b

Reach the arete from a ledge on its right and climb it.

''L.Ashton, J.Robinson 00.00.1999''

13. '''South Wall''' HVS,5a

The thin crack in the wall between ''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's'' and ''West Chimney''.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

14. '''West Chimney''' 15m S,4b *

The obvious chimney is highly intriguing.

''D.Jones, R.Owen 1954/55''

15. '''Training For Ogmore''' 14m E1,5a

The centre of the wall to the right of ''West Chimney'' Cleaned in 2017 to make a good quality route.

''J.Brown, E.Mair-Thomas 00.00.1996''''

16. '''Love Bump''' 10m HS 4a

The arête between ''Training for Ogmore'' and ''South Crack''.

''Nick Taylor, o/s solo 26.5.09''

17. '''South Crack''' 10m S

The seaward-facing slab just right of ''Training For Ogmore'' is climbed by a crack and delicate finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The lower tier now turns to face south at the line of ''Left Edge''.

18. '''Broken Wall'''12m D

Takes the centre of the narrow stepped wall left of ''Left Edge''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

[[Image:Great tor west.jpg|thumb|700px|right]]
19. '''Left Edge''' 18m S

This follows the left edge of the bubbly wall. Start at the left end of a small ledge, climb the crack to a shallow groove in the arete. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

20. '''Bubbly Wall''' 18m VS,4b *

Start as for ''West Corner'' but step left onto the wall and follow a thin crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1960''

21. '''West Corner''' 12m D

Climbs the corner behind the left edge of the '''Great Flake''' (the area of rock shielding this wall from the sea).

''A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

22. '''Barnacle''' 13m VS,4c

Start 3m right of ''West Corner'' below a distinct hole in the rock. Climb past the hole and continue to a good ledge. Finish up the yellow wall above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

23. '''Preuss Crack''' 13m HS,4b *

Start at a distinct short crack in the lower wall, 3m right of ''Barnacle''. From the end of the crack, bear left, climbing a conglomerate crack above to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Curving Corner''' 13m VS,4c

A bold route that climbs a crack beneath the left end of an obvious ledge. Follow the thin crack above the left end of the ledge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

25. '''Direct II''' 18m HVS,4c

From the ledge of ''Curving Corner'', climb the thin wall directly. Bold.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Right Curving Corner''' 21m S,4c

As for ''Curving Corner'' to the ledge, traverse right to below a corner and follow it to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Brown Slab''' 21m VD

This takes the wall right of the corner of ''Right Curving Corner'' on big holds, after a difficult start.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''Holey Wall''' 24m VD

Gain and climb the short crack right of Brown Slab.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

Next is a slightly recessed wall containing a crack on its right (''Right Corner'').

29. '''Left Corner''' 15m VD

Start as for Right Corner but exit the crack immediately, moving left and up to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1958''

30. '''Direct I''' 15m HS,4b

The slab between the Corner Routes.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

31. '''Right Corner''' 15m D

Climb the crack following it rightwards to the top via a corner.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

32. '''Block Wall''' 16m VD

Begin as for ''Right Corner'', then traverse right above the pool to finish direct on good holds.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Central Crack I''' 16m D *

Start at the right side of the pool and climb a crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Crack I''' 16m VD

Start at the smaller block, then climb a wide crack, which narrows to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

35. '''Right Side''' 6m D

Start at the top of the largest block, to climb delicately and directly to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The last climbing in the south frontal section, to the right (east) of the other climbs is on a recessed yellow face,
crossed by two right to left rising ramps.

36. '''Left Pillar''' 10m HS

Climb the left pillar directly, passing the ramp en route.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

37. '''Central Crack II''' 12m S

The crack above the centre of the lower ramp.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

38. '''Right Pillar''' 12m HVS,5a

The steep slab right again, bold.

''Traditional 00.00.0000''

To the right lie two cracks, both start from the right end of the lower ramp.

39. '''Left Crack I''' 10m VD

The thinner left-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

40. '''Right Crack II''' 10m D

The ledgey corner and wider right-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

41. '''Cracked Up''' 10m VD

Climb the first weakness in the upper ramp. Step left to a crack, then climb the curving crack above the ledge.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

42. '''Cracked It''' 8m D

From the first weakness of Cracked Up, take the wider crack passing ledges en route.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

43. '''Central Route''' 8m S

A disjointed crack, often filled with barnacles, splits the centre of the wall right again.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

44. '''Left Crack II''' 6m D

The left slanting cracks just before the end of the seaward face.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

==Additional Photos==
<gallery>
File:East ridge early evening.jpg|East Ridge, Great Tor at dusk.
File:Gary-b and tim-b bottom s.edge great-tor.jpg|Gary B. and Tim B. at the bottom of ''South Edge'', [[Great Tor]].
File:Pitch2 east ridge great-tor.jpg|Pitch 2 East Ridge, [[Great Tor]].
File:Tim cowx on two cracks gt tor lower tier.jpg|Tim Cowx on ''Two Cracks''.
</gallery>

Great Tor Proper

2017-11-12T12:42:52Z

Roy thomas: /* The Col Routes */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:South edge great tor.JPG|750px|thumb|right|Gary Burkhardt on ''South Edge'']]

'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
The upper tier is non-tidal. Climbs on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are accessible 1½ - 2 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Routes on the upper tier terminate at the approach col, so refer to the notes below.

Descent from routes on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are made by following the path leading to the beach from the non-tidal platform on the west side of the tor, or by scrambling back to beach level on the east.

Great Tor is the prominent headland situated east of '''[[Little Tor]]'''. Climbs on the lower tier are best accessed from Tor Bay
beach as described in the access for '''[[Little Tor]]'''.

Climbs on the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|Upper Tier]]''' are best accessed from the path running to
the headland, which reaches the second of two cols just before Great Tor proper. The eastern (left) branch is followed
to reach the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The_Col_Routes|Col routes]]''' and the start of '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#East_Ridge_Area|East Ridge]]'''. '''[[Great Tor East]]''' is also accessible from this path. The western (right) branch leads down past the Northern Upper Tier and can be followed all the way down to the beach, consequently
reaching the Lower Tier.

It is possible to scramble round the entire Tor from the base of either gully at an easy
standard, at well above high tide level.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Great Tor Upper Tier ===
The front face of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|upper tier]]''' is heavily vegetated, and there are no routes at present. The routes that do exist are clustered around the east and west flanks. Moving down the east branch of the col, to get to ''East Ridge'', the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The Col Routes|Col routes]]''' are visible on the landward side of the gully.

=== The Col Routes ===
At the top of the inland side of the east descent gully from the neck of the tor, lie a series of grooves and ribs. Although
these appear vegetated, the routes are clean and are on good juggy rock.

[[Image:Jayne-great_tor.jpg|thumb|450px|Jayne on ''Shag - VDiff'']]
1. '''Shag''' 15m VD

Climb the left most arete on jugs after a tricky start.

''D.Irving, C.Shorrock 00.00.1999''

2. '''Kestrel''' 15m S

The narrow wall between Shag and the cave leads to a bulge. Either skirt this on the left before returning to the corner, or climb the corner direct at the same grade.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

3. '''Cormorant''' 18m VD

The groove right of the cave contains an arete. Climb this with occasional help from the left edge of the groove.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

4. '''Magpie''' 21m S *

The groove to the right of ''Comorant'', containing two bulges.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

5. '''Chough''' 21m VD

he bulbous arete and grooved arete above and to the right of ''Magpie''.

''D.Irving 00.00.1999''

6. '''Wandl''' 12m HS,4c

Up and right a steep crack leaves a grassy bay. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

7. '''Cratered wall arrete''' 9m VS, 5a

To the right of the previous routes there is a large cave which is worth exploring. The compact steep little wall to the right of this contains interesting craters. This route takes the left arete

''C. Wyatt 19.05.11''

===East Ridge Area===
At the base of the east gully is a non tidal platform. Scramble round southward (out to sea and above the high tide level) to a good ledge, just before the east arete proper. Here is a prominent clean finger crack, marking the start of
''East Ridge''.

7. '''Ginger Groover''' 18m VD

Follow the vague grooves just right of the arete and 2m left of East Ridge, via two bulges. Amble off or continue as for ''East Ridge''.

''B.Merrifield 00.00.1998''

8. '''East Ridge''' 73m S,-,-,-,- ***

Excellent positions, splendid climbing and good gear, weaving around the East Ridge of the Tor. Pitches 3 and 4 are usually run together.
#18m Climb the crack in the wall and either step right, or follow the groove above to exit at a wide ledge.
#18m From the west end of the terrace climb a groove in the seaward face of the ridge before continuing up the arete to a stance by a flake.
#13m Follow the splendidly exposed arete to a grassy stance.
#24m Wander up the rest of the arete and the slabs above to belay on the summit, with superb views.

'' A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

9. '''East Ridge Variations''' 73m HS,4b,4b ***

Good variations on the first two pitches of the parent route. Start 2m right of ''East Ridge'' beneath twin cracks.
#17m Follow the twin cracks steeply to an easing before a wide ledge.
#17m The crack in the centre of the back wall leads initially via polished holds to the ridge and the tradtional finish of ''East Ridge''.

''Unknown Pre-1970''

=== Westwards from the Col ===
Further left, the shelves lead to the ledge at the top of the Great Flake area of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|Lower Tier]]'''.

There is a north-facing leaning wall about 50m down the banking.

10. '''Scrambled slab''' 12m VS 4b

Take the slab on left of ''Southern Freeze'' and ''Gower Kut'' on its left hand side. Distinct paucity of protection and gets serious. Alternatively use side runners! This pitch is surprisingly worthwhile.

''C. Wyatt solo 18.05.2011''

11. '''Gower Kut''' 18m E6,6b

Pain! The thin cracks in the pillar of rock, PRs.

''J.Talbot, D. Thomas - North Face A1 00.00.1959, FFA G.Ashmore 31.05.1998''

12. '''Southern Freeze''' 18m E1,5b

The cracks right of ''Gower Kut'' starting from a grassy scoop. Good to start, but deteriorates after the ledge.

''J.Harwood, A.Sharp 24.01.1980''

13. '''Mistral''' 25m E4,6a **

Amenable for the grade. Start as for Southern Freeze. Balance up the groove in the arete and reach a sloping ledge at 4m. Step right onto the arete PR and climb it with technical moves, PR, to bigger holds slightly right. Pull onto the capping slab and walk off onto the summit.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 21.03.1999''

The next route starts at a much lower level, at the base of a slab.

14. '''North Corner''' 39m HVS,5a

The stepped corner. Climb the quartz-flecked slab until it is possible to move left to the foot of the corner. Finish up the final slab. The route is vegetated and the grade may no longer be accurate.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

The next two routes are on the narrow west facing edge of the Tor, seaward from North Corner and facing back
towards Little Tor.

14. '''Direct''' 42m E1,5a

Start below the narrow west face at an easy-angled calcite-flecked slab some way up the beach. Follow a direct line up the centre of the west face with poor protection.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

15. '''South Edge''' 42m HS,4a

Start as for Direct. Climb the right edge of the slab to its top. The rock needs care in the upper reaches.

J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959

===Great Tor Lower Tier===
[[Image:Great tor west overview.jpg|center|800px|thumb|[[#Great Tor Lower Tier|Great Tor Lower Tier]]]]
Routes on the lower tier are described from west to east (left to right facing inland), as approached from Tor Beach.

The first area of rock encountered is a small twin slab lying midway along the west side of the headland. The left twin
is lower, the right twin contains a deep crack running to three-quarters height.

There is a 4m boulder problem up the left-hand slab (''Bulge, 4b, C.Andrews 1959'').

[[Image:Two cracks area-2.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Two Cracks Area]]
1. '''Two Cracks''' 7m HS,4b

Follow the crack stepping right into a second where it ends.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

2. '''Piton Climb''' 7m VS,5a

Climb the wall just right of ''Two Cracks''. Step left into the crack at its top and move up and left to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

A little to the right of ''Piton Climb'' is a sheer south-facing slab.

3. '''Dimpletown''' 10m E3,6a *

A little gem. From the lowest part of the slab climb direct on small holds. A Bristol blade PR at half-height protects.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

The wall now turns to face west. The prominent features of the wall are a left-slanting crack with a narrow black
corner 5m to the right and a sharp arete 5m right again. Beyond this is an obvious chimney (West Chimney).

4. '''Only The Hardy''' 10m E1,5a

Climb the wall and shallow groove 2m left of a prominent left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

5. '''The Grunting Professor''' 9m E1,5c

The left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

[[Image:Great tor lower tier west wall.jpg|thumb|700px|right|'''Great Tor Lower Tier''' - West Wall]]
6. '''Blow Monica''' 9m E1,5c

Start 2m left of the crack leading into the narrow black corner. Work up to a brown flake groove and take pockets to the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

7. '''The Cramps In The Cold''' 10m E2,5c

Good climbing. Follow good, widely spaced holds 2m left of the arete of the black corner, finishing immediately left of a wide crystalline crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

8. '''Mighty Mouse''' 10m HVS,5b

Start to the right, about 2m left of the black corner of ''Third Time Lucky''. Climb the wall direct via a thin crack and shallow groove to the top.

''J.Harwood, M.Ismail 01.05.1999''

9. '''Third Time Lucky''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the narrow black corner.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

10. '''The Ramp With No Holds''' 10m E3,6a

Gain and climb the shallow ramp right of the narrow black corner to a jug. Finish direct past the stuck on jug.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

11. '''Term Of Office''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the crack on the left side of the arete to the right.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

[[Image:Great tor south walls.jpg|thumb|rigt|700px|South Walls]]
Moving seaward from the cracked slab is a series of steep low walls, terminating in an obvious arete, beyond which
lies an obvious chimney.

12. '''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's''' 12m VS,4b

Reach the arete from a ledge on its right and climb it.

''L.Ashton, J.Robinson 00.00.1999''

13. '''South Wall''' HVS,5a

The thin crack in the wall between ''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's'' and ''West Chimney''.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

14. '''West Chimney''' 15m S,4b *

The obvious chimney is highly intriguing.

''D.Jones, R.Owen 1954/55''

15. '''Training For Ogmore''' 14m E1,5a

The centre of the wall to the right of ''West Chimney'' Cleaned in 2017 to make a good quality route.

''J.Brown, E.Mair-Thomas 00.00.1996''''

16. '''Love Bump''' 10m HS 4a

The arête between ''Training for Ogmore'' and ''South Crack''.

''Nick Taylor, o/s solo 26.5.09''

17. '''South Crack''' 10m S

The seaward-facing slab just right of ''Training For Ogmore'' is climbed by a crack and delicate finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The lower tier now turns to face south at the line of ''Left Edge''.

18. '''Broken Wall'''12m D

Takes the centre of the narrow stepped wall left of ''Left Edge''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

[[Image:Great tor west.jpg|thumb|700px|right]]
19. '''Left Edge''' 18m S

This follows the left edge of the bubbly wall. Start at the left end of a small ledge, climb the crack to a shallow groove in the arete. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

20. '''Bubbly Wall''' 18m VS,4b *

Start as for ''West Corner'' but step left onto the wall and follow a thin crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1960''

21. '''West Corner''' 12m D

Climbs the corner behind the left edge of the '''Great Flake''' (the area of rock shielding this wall from the sea).

''A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

22. '''Barnacle''' 13m VS,4c

Start 3m right of ''West Corner'' below a distinct hole in the rock. Climb past the hole and continue to a good ledge. Finish up the yellow wall above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

23. '''Preuss Crack''' 13m HS,4b *

Start at a distinct short crack in the lower wall, 3m right of ''Barnacle''. From the end of the crack, bear left, climbing a conglomerate crack above to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Curving Corner''' 13m VS,4c

A bold route that climbs a crack beneath the left end of an obvious ledge. Follow the thin crack above the left end of the ledge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

25. '''Direct II''' 18m HVS,4c

From the ledge of ''Curving Corner'', climb the thin wall directly. Bold.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Right Curving Corner''' 21m S,4c

As for ''Curving Corner'' to the ledge, traverse right to below a corner and follow it to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Brown Slab''' 21m VD

This takes the wall right of the corner of ''Right Curving Corner'' on big holds, after a difficult start.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''Holey Wall''' 24m VD

Gain and climb the short crack right of Brown Slab.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

Next is a slightly recessed wall containing a crack on its right (''Right Corner'').

29. '''Left Corner''' 15m VD

Start as for Right Corner but exit the crack immediately, moving left and up to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1958''

30. '''Direct I''' 15m HS,4b

The slab between the Corner Routes.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

31. '''Right Corner''' 15m D

Climb the crack following it rightwards to the top via a corner.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

32. '''Block Wall''' 16m VD

Begin as for ''Right Corner'', then traverse right above the pool to finish direct on good holds.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Central Crack I''' 16m D *

Start at the right side of the pool and climb a crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Crack I''' 16m VD

Start at the smaller block, then climb a wide crack, which narrows to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

35. '''Right Side''' 6m D

Start at the top of the largest block, to climb delicately and directly to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The last climbing in the south frontal section, to the right (east) of the other climbs is on a recessed yellow face,
crossed by two right to left rising ramps.

36. '''Left Pillar''' 10m HS

Climb the left pillar directly, passing the ramp en route.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

37. '''Central Crack II''' 12m S

The crack above the centre of the lower ramp.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

38. '''Right Pillar''' 12m HVS,5a

The steep slab right again, bold.

''Traditional 00.00.0000''

To the right lie two cracks, both start from the right end of the lower ramp.

39. '''Left Crack I''' 10m VD

The thinner left-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

40. '''Right Crack II''' 10m D

The ledgey corner and wider right-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

41. '''Cracked Up''' 10m VD

Climb the first weakness in the upper ramp. Step left to a crack, then climb the curving crack above the ledge.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

42. '''Cracked It''' 8m D

From the first weakness of Cracked Up, take the wider crack passing ledges en route.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

43. '''Central Route''' 8m S

A disjointed crack, often filled with barnacles, splits the centre of the wall right again.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

44. '''Left Crack II''' 6m D

The left slanting cracks just before the end of the seaward face.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

==Additional Photos==
<gallery>
File:East ridge early evening.jpg|East Ridge, Great Tor at dusk.
File:Gary-b and tim-b bottom s.edge great-tor.jpg|Gary B. and Tim B. at the bottom of ''South Edge'', [[Great Tor]].
File:Pitch2 east ridge great-tor.jpg|Pitch 2 East Ridge, [[Great Tor]].
File:Tim cowx on two cracks gt tor lower tier.jpg|Tim Cowx on ''Two Cracks''.
</gallery>

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-11T13:10:19Z

Roy thomas: /* RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know'' now fully bolted top to tail with a L.O. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association Fr 4+***''' The corner left of the green slab,the dust will settle,harder if the bulge is taken direct. 
#'''Stainless Steel Incorporation project''' bolted but not yet cleaned 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24.03.2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 03.04.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-11T13:05:47Z

Roy thomas: /* OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know'' now fully bolted top to tail with a L.O. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association Fr 4+***''' The corner left of the green slab,the dust will settle,harder if the bulge is taken direct. 
#'''closed project''' bolted but not yet cleaned 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24.03.2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 03.04.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-09T12:26:31Z

Roy thomas: /* RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association Fr 4+***''' The corner left of the green slab,the dust will settle,harder if the bulge is taken direct. 
#'''closed project''' bolted but not yet cleaned 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24.03.2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 03.04.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-10-04T09:12:51Z

Roy thomas: /* Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013
===Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab===
Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial,Wedge walls.
#'''Moss Tickle Crack VS 4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack,good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen Fr 4b*''' The arete,long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay,easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-10-04T09:04:48Z

Roy thomas: /* Lifebuoy Buttress */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013
===Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab===
#'''Moss Tickle Crack VS 4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack,good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen Fr 4b*''' The arete,long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay,easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-10-04T09:02:55Z

Roy thomas: /* Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013
===Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab===
#'''Moss Tickle Crack VS 4c *''' Recently cleaned muddy crack,good nut placements. 
#'''Moss Bros HVS 4c''' The crack to the right with a starting bulge. 
#'''Checkin Lichen Fr 4b*''' The arete,long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay,easily retrieved. 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first
ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point
for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were
allowed. This situation now changed with no discussion at the July
2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-10-03T23:11:05Z

Roy thomas: /* Terrace Wall Upper Tier */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013
===Wedge Wall Right- Mossy Slab===
#'''Moss Tickle Crack VS 4c *''' 

=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first
ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point
for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were
allowed. This situation now changed with no discussion at the July
2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow - Fr. 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up - Fr. 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''
#
#

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

File talk:Cwm dimbath 1.jpg

2017-10-03T21:38:31Z

Roy thomas: Created page with "16 is 17 havnt a clue"

16 is 17 havnt a clue

Cwm Dimbath

2017-10-02T14:06:15Z

Roy thomas: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR 947902
==PREAMBLE==
The crag consists of a natural rift that has been quarried in some parts to form two distinct areas. The lower rift is more extensive in size and height and has some routes on natural sandstone. This is a very good crag, unfortunately plagued by lichen. At the time of writing all the routes will require some cleaning.

A little more traffic should keep them in a reasonable state. Some routes remain dry in the rain, even after a prolonged spell, but seepage can be a problem, particularly during the winter. Midges are a real pain in summer after 7 pm. Take midge cream, a heavy smoker, or an alarm clock that only has 6 hours on it to confuse the little sods.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A4061 from the M4 at [[wikipedia:Sarn,_Bridgend|Sarn]] through [[wikipedia:Bryncethin|Bryncethin]] to [[wikipedia:Blackmill|Blackmill]]. Turn right along the A4093 towards [[wikipedia:Gilfach Goch|Gilfach Goch]] and follow this road for 1/2 mile until Glynllan estate is reached. Turn left into Dimbath Avenue and follow it through an estate, continuing down a country lane until a ford is reached. Park here. This point can also be reached by travelling westwards along the A4093 from [[wikipedia:Tonyrefail|Tonyrefail]] and turning right opposite the church in Glynogwr. Having parked at the ford, walk up the river following the path on the true right bank for ¾ mile, until a gravel forest track doubles back rightwards and up the hill. Follow this until the track straightens after a left-hand bend, where there is currently a tree covered in white paint. Follow a path up into the forest to arrive at the lower rift.

==THE ROUTES==

From right to left as one approaches them:

===Lower Rift===
#'''Across The River - VS, 4c''' Immediately upon turning right to enter the main rift is a prominent short arete on the right side. 8m. 
#'''Into The Trees - VS, 4b''' 6m to the left is another obvious cleaned arete of natural sandstone. 8m. 
#'''Groucher - VS, 4c''' The rounded arete to the left. 8m. 
#'''Midget Gem (Whinger) HVS 5a *''' 6m to the left is a scoop running from a ledge to a prominent tree. 8m. 
#'''Moaner - VS, 4c''' Left again is a steep wall with a PR at 5m and an arete to its right. Start on the ledge to the right of the arete and layback the sharp arete facing left, passing a useful Friend slot en route. 8m. 
#'''Teaching Granny - E1, 5c *''' Climb the steep wall past the PR, trending right to finish.9m. 
#'''Huff And Puff - HVS, 4c''' The next arete to the left. 9m. 
#'''Sucking Eggs - E3, 6a ***''' Tackle the strikingly obvious leaning sharp arete to the left, PR. Perhaps the best route on natural sandstone in the area. 12m. [[Image:cwm dimbath 1.jpg|500px|thumb|right|]] 
#'''At Your Convenience Fr. 6b+ *''' Climb the overhanging wall to the left(4PRs) to the BB of ''Sucking Eggs''. 12m. 
#'''Phil’s Ammonia - E1, 5b''' Over to the left is a blunt arete forming the left-hand side of a gully. Start at the base of the mossy slab and wander up this to gain the arete. Climb the arete, 2PRs, to a large ledge and either top out or lower off a pre-placed rope. 18m. 
#'''Sal’s Ammoniac - E2 ,5c''' To the left are two vague towers. This route climbs the front face of the left hand tower, with a tricky start, PR and the spectacular overhang above, PR, to a BB. 15m. 
#'''Teddy Bear’s Picnic - Fr 5+''' Climb the large left wall of the corner directly up its centre passing recently installed bolts. 15m. 
#'''closed project''' Awaiting midge free times and a belayer. 
#'''closed project''' similar 
#'''Coming On Strong - E5, 6b ***''' Brilliant albeit somewhat overshadowed by its neighbour. Climb the overhanging crack past a wide niche, PR and a situ wire to the overhang. Thug through the roof and up the overhanging crack (Friends ½ and 1½), BB. 21m. 
#'''Where The Power Lies - E6, 6b *** '''Awesome, spacious and decidedly uphill. Climb the blatantly obvious crack starting from a ledge at 2m, to a baffling move through the roof. Shakeout, crank up for a good jug and finish by jug hauling and a couple of jams to the chain. Several PRs. 21m. [[Image:cwm dimbath 2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|]] 
#'''Haven’t A Clue - Fr. 7a+ **''' The obvious and deceptively powerful blunt arete down and to the left, passing 4BRs to a BB out to the left. A bit run out in the central section. 15m. 
#'''If You Go Down To The Woods Today - E4, 6a **''' The thin cracks in the wall to the left contain a couple of long, powerful locks, with shaky gear in the central section. Friends are useful to protect the exit onto the upper slab, and a Friend ½ is very useful at 10m. BB.15m. ''There is a project up the wall to the left (''Recurring Pantomime'').'' 
#'''Big Surprise - E1, 5b''' The ‘offwidth’ to the left. 15m. 
#'''Day Of The Mastodon - HVS, 5a *''' Climb the obvious flying arete at the extreme left hand end of this section of wall before the larger bank and the upper rift. 15m. 
#'''Burdizzo - E1, 5b''' Opposite ''Phil’s Ammonia'' on the other side of the rift is a small scoop with some painted graffiti. Climb the scoop direct past a PR, to finish. 

===Upper Rift===
''Up and left from the Lower Rift is the Upper Rift.''

#'''Trickie - VS, 4b''' An obvious small buttress, overhanging on its left-hand side just left of a grass col provides this route, which climbs onto the obvious small ledge, moves up and then traverses right under the overhang to finish. 8m. 
#'''Trieksodeephobia - HVS, 5a''' Climb onto the small ledge as for ''Trickie'', but continue direct to finish (The finish can be reached directly, via a boulder problem through the overlaps). 9m. 
#'''No. 7 Climb - VS, 4c''' Climb the filthy groove 9m to the left until a step left can be made onto a slabby wall. Probably best left to the lichen. 12m. [[Image:cwm dimbath 3.jpg|500px|thumb|right|]] 
#'''Consuming Passion - HVS, 5b''' Around to the left is a fine wall with a prominent right to left ramp up its centre. Climb the prominent crack to the right of the ramp, finishing direct. 18m. 
#'''Unnamed - E6, 6b''' The chipped wall to the left (the first ascensionist was not responsible for the chips), to gain the finish of ''Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge''. 16m. 
#'''Never Mind The Bollocks, Share The Knowledge - E3, 5c **''' Climb the prominent diagonal ramp (good wires) until level with the underside of the capping roof. Step right, and follow a series of slots over the overhangs to finish direct up the centre of the buttress (crux). 18m. 
#'''Wild Pussy - E2, 5b''' Start by some graffiti 5m left of the last routes. Climb the conspicuous left-trending blocky faultline into a niche and finish direct to the left of an obvious tree. A difficult start. 15m. 
#'''Grit Expectations - E4, 5c''' Climb the recessed wall 8m left of ''Wild Pussy'' direct via a break, a blind flake (poor Rock 2) to a rounded break, poor Friend. Make crux moves upto the overlap and finish more easily. 14m. 
#'''The Creaming Codpiece - E2, 5c''' The prominent slab to the left, with an undercut base, PRs. 12m. 
#'''Bitter End - E1, 5b *''' Climb the wall to the left starting up an overhanging groove and finishing direct past a PR. 14m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
====LOWER RIFT====

#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1990 
#E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas 00.00.1991 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.05.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 21.04.1990 
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 29.04.1990 
#P.Lewis, A.Sharp 21.04.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Davies 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Gibson 09.06.1990 
#R.Thomas Pre-1991 


====UPPER RIFT====

#G.Lewis 00.00.1990 
#G.Lewis, A.Burke 00.00.1990 
#G.Lewis, A.Keward 00.00.1990 
#H.Griffiths, L.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#J.Sykes Pre-1999 
#A.Burke, E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990 
#H.Griffiths,E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990 
#E.Travers-Jones, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990 
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 04.10.1997 
#R.Thomas Pre-1991

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-09-30T08:57:39Z

Roy thomas: /* Windy Buttress */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013


=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first
ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point
for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were
allowed. This situation now changed with no discussion at the July
2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].Take care with steep fragile rock on big jugs.

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow Fr 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up Fr 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Rhossili Upper Crags

2017-09-30T08:55:11Z

Roy thomas: /* Windy Buttress */

[[Category:Rhossili]]
'''[[:Category:Rhossili|Rhossili]]'''

'''[[Rhossili Sea Level]]'''
[[File:Penny wedge wall.jpg|500px|right|thumb|Penny on ''Wedge-Egade Master'', [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]] 

=== Retribution Wall===
[[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|500px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]

#'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5''' The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m 
#'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b''' Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m 
#'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b''' The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m 
#'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a''' The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish. 
#'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a''' As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m 
#'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5''' Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m 

====First Ascents====

#Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
#Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
#Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
#Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11
#Steven Warrington 21/08/11


===Trial Wall===
[[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]
[[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).

#'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c ** Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top. 
#'''Blackman's Pinch''' 24m E4,6a ** A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''. 
#'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ *** A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman's Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay. 
#'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish. 
#'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b *** Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top. 
#'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ * The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of "twizzles". Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m. 
#'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m. 
#'''The Hant - Fr. 7a''' Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m. 
#'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a''' The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m. 
#'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a ** A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''. 
====First Ascents====

#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''
#''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''
#''M.Richards - 2013''
#''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas V Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''
#''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp Direct 00.00.1988''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''
#''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''
#''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''

'''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''

''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment'''s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or
two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].


===Wedge Wall===
[[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|500px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]
The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

#'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+''' Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m 
#'''Wedgling - Fr. 5''' Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m 
#'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+''' Shared belay. 10 m 
#'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5''' Shared belay with route on right. 10 m 
#'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+''' Face climbing on crimps. 10 m 

=== Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===
Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of [[#Terrace Wall|Terrace Wall]], just below [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]].

#'''Ayla''' - 8m HS Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.

====First Ascents====

# ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013


=== Lifebuoy Buttress ===
'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first
ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point
for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were
allowed. This situation now changed with no discussion at the July
2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.

#'''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a The left hand arete. 
#'''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+. The wall 3m right of ''The Axe''. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing. 
#'''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+''' The wall, direct, left of the stepped corner. 
#'''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of ''Blockbuster'' to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top. 
#'''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c Some 6m right of ''Pulpit'' is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress. 

=== Black Buttress Quarry ===
[[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]
About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.

This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. At [[#Black Buttress Left|Black Buttress Left]] there are two bolted routes which both appear to be around Fr. 6b.

Over at [[#Black Buttress Right|Black Buttress Right]] a number of sports routes have been added making a very agreeable place for a relaxed climb on a sunny evening.

'''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on
a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.

====Black Buttress Left====
#'''unnamed''' 15m 6b There is a line of hangars on some suspect rock. Be aware. 
#'''A Life without Porpoise'''15m 6c+ Climb the arete to the right of Bragg to the grassy ledge. Climb directly up the steep wall above on thin edges (avoiding the loose groove to the right). Continue over the small overlap to the large ledge and the ring belay of the previous route. 
#'''Bragg''' 12m V Diff Follow flakes and a corner in the centre. 
#'''Little Spider''' 10m VD Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace. 

====Black Buttress Right====
[[Image:Black buttress right.jpg|thumb|600px|right|'''Black Wall - Right''']]
Further right in the quarry is a square block and lower down a crack seamed wall.
#'''Sloppy Seconds - HVS,5b''' The crack in the left side of the block. Bolt with maillon to lower off. 
#'''The Edge - E4,6a''' A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected. 5m. 
#''' Bits'n Bobs - VS,4c''' The short but sharp retaining cracking off the grass terrace. Bolt lower off. 
#'''Spittle and Spume - Fr. 6c''' Short problem just left of the jam crack starting off the grassy ledge. 
#'''Fiff and Faff - VS,4c''' Jam crack. 
#'''Footsie - Fr. 6a''' The wall just right. 
#'''Pied Noir - Fr. 6c+''' Start from the lower level up the groove, mantle then the tricky wall above. 
#'''Wonderful Land - Fr. 6c *''' Excellent climbing to the shared belay. 
#'''Monica's Dress - Fr. 5+''' Left at the short roof and up the twin cracks, excellent. 
#'''Spit it Out - Fr. 6a''' Layback to gain the crack. Undercut flake leads to belay slightly to right. 
#'''Black Friday - Fr. 7a''' Fingery direct up wall. 
#'''Can't Swallow That - Fr. 5''' Crack to shared belay on left. 
#'''Down In One - Fr 5''' The right hand of the two parallel cracks to the ledge, continue up the bolder arete to a single large ringroup bolt. 9m 
#'''The Beautiful People - Fr. 6a+*''' Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete. 8m. 
#'''Spit'n Polish - Fr. 6a''' The groove R of arete to shared belay. 
#'''Spic'n Span - Fr. 6a''' The final little slab, tricky start to belay on arete. 

====Black Buttress Far Right====
[[File:Black buttress far right veggie slab.jpg|300px|thumb|[[#Veggie Slab|Veggie Slab]]]]
Even further right is a short pleasant slab.

=====Veggie Slab=====
#'''Fat End Of The Veg - Fr. 4''' The short arete. 
#'''Vegimite - Fr. 4''' As for ''Vegazzle'' then move L at block to belay of ''Fat End of the Veg'' 
#'''Vegazzle - Fr. 5+''' Faint corner, block, moving R to shared belay. 
#'''Meat and Two Veg - Fr. 5''' Slab leading to corner. 
#'''Veg? Ina - HS''' Grass ledge, corner to shared belay of ''Veginismus'' without recourse to bolts. 
#'''Veginismus - Fr. 6a''' Slab then easing to a step left into shared corner. 

===Silent Walls===
[[File:Silent walls.jpg|right|500px|thumb|[[#Silent Walls|Silent Walls]]]]
''Short corner and slab''

#'''Nick's Corner - VS, 5a''' Trad corner. 
#'''OK Squire - Fr. 6a''' Right of corner. 
#'''Freeloaders Arete - Fr. 6a+''' Arete then L to shared belay. ''Up the grass slope on the right is a sombre wall to the left of the arete of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]. 
#'''It's Oh So Quiet - Fr. 6b+ *''' Excellent arete just L of a grubby corner. Reachy start. 
#'''Noisiness - Fr. 6b''' Good bridging up the corner. 
#'''Bedlam - Fr. 6b''' Crack moving left to a steeper section. 
#'''White Noise - Fr. 6c+ ***''' Pick of the bunch. Left side of arete. Excellent. 

=== Silent Fright Buttress ===
[[Image:Silent fright buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]]]'''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.

This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It begins at impressive arete, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').

#'''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a * Climb the right side of the impressive arete at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. 
#'''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c Just right (~1m) of the ''Silent Fright arete'' is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove. 
#'''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''. 
#'''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c * The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''. 
#'''Executioner's Thrill''' 15m E4,6b * A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''. 
#'''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. 
#'''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arete to the top. 
#'''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b The flying arete is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section. 

===Calcite Bay Left===
[[Image:Calcite bay.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Calcite bay|Calcite Bay]]]]
Bolting permitted retro bla bla. Access the upper walls right of bl ba ba.

''The impressive wall right of ''Audience of Sheep''''

#'''Mutton Geoff - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky on the upper wall. 
#'''Lambs to the slaughter - Fr. 7a''' Heel lock is the key. Down to the right and beside the track leading to the '''Calcite Wall''' are two short routes 
#'''Minnie Me - Fr. 4+''' 
#'''Minnie You - Fr. 5''' 

===Calcite Bay Right===
''A short rectangular wall of crystalline calcite and a right retaining wall provide some sheltered entertainment''

#'''Calcitron - Fr. 5''' Ledgy start to a short steeper headwall. 
#'''Calcite Crunch - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls leading to a harder exit. 
#'''Calcite Punch - Fr. 6b+''' Right hand start to previous. 
#'''Crinoid Crimper - Fr. 5+''' Wall L of flake. 
#'''Just 2 Mohs - Fr. 4''' Flake, step L to share belay. 
#'''Low on The Hardness Scale - Fr. 4+''' Wall left of orange rubble. 

''On the right retaining wall are 3 routes''

#'''Calcite Crack'n Up - Fr. 6a+''' Wall just R of thin crack 
#'''Drill your Own - Fr. 6b''' R again to seperate L.O. 
#'''Calcitaclone - Fr. 6b''' last route to shared belay. 

===Sinners Walls===
[[Image:Sinners walls topo.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]]]]
'''Bolt Policy:''' Retro bolting permitted with first ascentionists permission. New sport routes permitted, stainless bolts only.

Access the far right upper short walls to the R of [[#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]] gained by walking below the aforementioned or descending well worn fisherpersons path.
[[image:Sinners walls sin bin gg and rt.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas on ''Sin Bad'', Sinners Walls]]
#'''Devil May Care - Fr. 6c+''' The side wall just R of the short arete. Long stretch off the pedestal. 
#'''Transgressor's Corner - Fr. 5''' The slabby calcite lined corner. 
#'''Butcher's Slab - Fr. 6a''' The slab on the right to same L.O. 
#'''Repentance Arete - Fr. 6b+''' The right side of the slabs arete gained by a short traverse from the stepped corner. 
#'''Stepped corner - Fr. 6a''' The stepped corner. 
#'''Sin Bin - Fr. 6a+''' Fragile calcite scabs lead to a slab with a tricky to clip belay for the short. 
#'''Scintillate - Fr. 6a+''' Layback flake joining previous after roof. 
#'''Forgiveness - Fr. 6b''' Huge calcite crystals lead to steep flake, join previous after roof. 
#'''Father Confessor - Fr. 6a+''' The pillar,deceptive, tricky final moves on sub optimal rock. 
#'''Sin Sear-Fr 4+''' Corner crack, nice bridging. Belay can be gained WITHOUT USE OF LARGE JAMMED BLOCKS IN CHIMNEY. 
#'''Sinbad - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Sinus - Fr. 6b''' 
#'''Synthesizer Slab - Fr. 6b *''' 
#'''Devilment - Fr. 4''' Short arete leading to pleasant nsstepped groove. 
#'''For Ye Who Has Sinned.... - Fr. 6c''' 
#'''The Seven Deadly Sins - Fr. 6c+''' Squeezed in eliminate using the first two clips of ''Wages of Sin'', and then climbing via two expansion bolts to the lower-off of ''For Ye Who Have Sinned''. 
#'''Wages of Sin - Fr. 6c+ *, E4, 6a''' 60m right of the arete of ''An Audience of Sheep''12m. 
#'''Song of a Sinner - Fr. 7a+''' A short and (obviously) chipped problem. 

===Windy Buttress===
[[Image:Windy buttress rhossili-straightened.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[#Windy Buttress|Windy Buttress]]]]
Just up the slope from [[#Sinners Walls|Sinners Walls]].

#'''Blow Me Down (thar) - Fr. 6b+''' More delights,cash crisis means stick clipping high first bolt above crunchy start. Kindly a pre drilled 10mm hole is there so feel free...... 
#'''Tha'r She Blows - Fr. 6b+ *''' Steep start in centre of wall. Central shared belay. Low in the grade. 
#'''A Stiff Blow Fr 6a''' Fragile crack to start then over steep bulge. 
#'''Blow Up Fr 5+''' Easy steps lead to steepening,taking care with crunchy rock,will improve with traffic,but lots of bolts to compensate. 

===The Fat Lady Wall===
[[Image:Fat lady buttress carbonite.jpg|thumb|600px|[[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]]]]
''Situated above the jumble of large boulders up and left of [[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]. There is a steep fisherpersons descent close to the coastguard hut leading to its base.''

#'''Chubby Loving - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the wall. Tricky handjam to reach top and double staple belay on the right. 
#'''Plumper Romp - Fr. 6b+''' Wall to R, tricky finish to shared belay 
#'''Bosom Pals Fr 6b+''' High first bolt. Single bolt belay so share on left and use a clipstick. 
#'''Butterball - Fr. 5c*''' Left of earthy chimney. Belay on arete. 
#'''It's Not All Over - Fr. 5c''' Right of chimney then share belay 1m to left. 

===Carbon Slab===
''Overlooks the small bay at Kitchen Corner. 51.563995, -4.305359 and SS 40304 87532. Approx 100m NW of the Coastguard Watch Station.''

Approach as for [[#The Fat Lady Wall|The Fat Lady Wall]], then go down a little and left.

The tat at the base of the crag marks a spot where you can possibly rig an anchor for your belayer.
[[Image:Carbon slab.jpg|thumb|right|500px|[[#Carbon Slab|Carbon Slab]]]]
#'''Waiting for the Fat Lady's Thong - Fr. 5''' From the corner, climb left of the arete. 
#'''Carbonate - Fr. 6a''' Arete just up from the slab. Good looking line. 
#'''Carboniferous - Fr. 4+'''
#'''Carbon Copy - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Dating - Fr. 6b+ *'''
#'''Carbon Era - Fr. 6b *'''
#'''Carbon Times - Fr. 6b'''
#'''Carbon Light - Fr. 4'''

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Wedge Wall'''
#
#
#
# ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987
#

'''Lifebuoy Buttress'''
#''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.05.2011''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978G.Evans, J.Bullock Direct 00.00.1982''
#''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

'''Black Buttress'''
#''Stu Llewellyn 2011''
#''Pete Blackburn, Paul Tucker 2014''
#''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''
#''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''

'''Black Buttress Right'''
#''R. Thomas 2016''
#''A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.thomas 2016''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas''
#''R. Thomas''
#''G. Gibson''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson 2016''
#''Joe Squire 2009'''
#''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''
#''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.08.2013''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson 2016''

'''Veggie Slab aka Black Buttress Far Right'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''
#
#'' ditto ''
#'' ''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 20.05.2017''

'''Silent Walls'''
#''Nick O'Neil, R.Thomas 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#''R.Thomas, Nick 01.06.2017''
#'' G.G R.T''
#
#
#G.G

'''Silent Fright Buttress'''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''
#''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''
#''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''
#''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''
#''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''

'''Calcite Bay Left'''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas 2017''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T 2017''

'''Calcite Bay Right'''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G''
#''R.T G.G 2017''

#''G.Gibson R.Thomas''
#''G.G R.T''
#''G.G R.T july 2017''

'''Sinners Walls'''
#''''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 05.05.2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T''
#''R.T Tim H 2017''
#''R.Thomas G.Gibson, 06.05.2017''
#''R.T Tim Hoddy june 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''Roy Thomas Tim Hoddy july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 06.05.2017''
#''G. Davis, M. Davis 17.07.2017''
#''A.Sharp 1988''
#''Chris Allen 00.08.2017''

'''Windy Buttress'''
#
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 19.08.2017''

'''The Fat Lady Wall'''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''
#''R.Thomas Tim Hoddy 00.08.2017''

'''Carbon Slab'''
#''R.Thomas Eugene Jones G.Ashmore 00.08.2017''
#''R. Thomas G.Gibson july 2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson R.Thomas, 05.05.2017''
#''G.Gibson July 2017''

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:Gwyn e at wedge wall.jpg|Gwyn Evans at [[#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]
File:Black butress far far right.jpg
File:Working.jpg
</gallery>

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-26T22:34:17Z

Roy thomas: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil.
23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. Abseil or L.O. on nearby chain. 19 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. L.O below wide ledge. 11 m. 
#'''Mint Topping Fr 5+''' From the half way ledge, 6b if used as a top out from Spring Lamb. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 17 m. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall. From the grassy ledge continue up a slab behind the tree. L.O. 17 m. 
#'''Spinning a Good Yarn Fr 5+ ''' Start as for Tupping then take the excellent red groove on good rock. 
#'''Mutton Chops Fr 5''' A right hand finish to Tupping,take care,a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-26T22:17:25Z

Roy thomas: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil.
23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. Abseil or L.O. on nearby chain. 19 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. L.O below wide ledge. 11 m. 
#'''Mint Topping Fr 5+''' From the half way ledge, 6b if used as a top out from Spring Lamb. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 17 m. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall. From the grassy ledge continue up a slab behind the tree. L.O. 17 m. 

[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Witches Cave

2017-09-25T20:58:42Z

Roy thomas: /* New Sector */

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
==New Sector==
[[Image:Witches new sector.jpg|thumb|500px|right|New Sector]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''open project''' The chimney trad,belay and cleaning needed. 
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Pwdin Blew Fr 6a+''' Start just L of trad route,care at top needed just before staple belay as still damp and muddy. Will brush when dry. 
#'''project'' Wet chimney trad in waiting. 
#'''closed project''' Only holes to belay of Coc Oen 1.69m right of chimney. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Onco Fonco - Fr. 6b''' Easy coral slab leads to steepening and undercuts with tricky move onto ledge. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 

==Witches' Cave==
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
::'''0. Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b **''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 10.09.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas solo 2017



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Witches Cave

2017-09-25T20:56:56Z

Roy thomas: /* New Sector */

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
==New Sector==
[[Image:Witches new sector.jpg|thumb|500px|right|New Sector]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''open project''' The chimney trad,belay and cleaning needed. 
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Closed project''' Start just L of trad route,care at top needed just before staple belay as still damp and muddy. Will brush when dry. 
#'''project'' Wet chimney trad in waiting. 
#'''closed project''' Only holes to belay of Coc Oen 1.69m right of chimney. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Onco Fonco - Fr. 6b''' Easy coral slab leads to steepening and undercuts with tricky move onto ledge. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 

==Witches' Cave==
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
::'''0. Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b **''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 10.09.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas solo 2017



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-22T08:56:07Z

Roy thomas: /* RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[image:Navigation-cover-thumb.jpg|thumb|400px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/navigation_quarry.pdf]]

'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - E4, 6b''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the steep wall left of the ''Geeny'' ramp (PR / BR) to a roof. Place good Friends in pockets on the lip of the roof and overcome it using very thin holds. L.O. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under ''Elastic Retreat''. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' Steep start right of the arete, pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and head for a large oval pocket in the slab. Tackle the rightmost of the cracks above, to a shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt. Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a narrow rounded ledge. Mantle the ledge then make a long move up and right from a big pocket to a good edge. Climb direct over a bulge and belay on two staples set back from the top. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish (PR missing), or better and harder, directly up the blunt arête passing 3 BRs. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC (2 BRs). Easier climbing up the slab (BR) leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack (BR) shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges (2 BRs) to gain a ledge and a simple run out finish. L.O. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). New L.O. on ''Deus ex machina'' 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to the right of IAN. Directly above are a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and follow a blind crack to gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Abseil from bolts a few feet back from the top. Report of the 3rd bolt in a very loose block so avoid this if possible. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the moves to live up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:West_and_east.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Bill Gregory and Alan Rosier on ''Western Front'' (Fr 7a) and ''Eastern Bloc Rock'' (Fr 7a+)]] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. behind a tree. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a''' Start below a shallow groove at 8m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Gain the boss and make a very long move up to good holds. Shared L.O. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a+''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6b''' Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. Belay or L.O. on nearby chain. 19 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. L.O below wide ledge.( await the extension once ledges above cleared) 11 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. BRs to tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall. Continues up the slab behind tree on L above a grassy ledge. L.O. 17 m. 

[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
# - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Proj closed
# - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-22T08:50:51Z

Roy thomas: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[image:Navigation-cover-thumb.jpg|thumb|400px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/navigation_quarry.pdf]]

'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - E4, 6b''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the steep wall left of the ''Geeny'' ramp (PR / BR) to a roof. Place good Friends in pockets on the lip of the roof and overcome it using very thin holds. L.O. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under ''Elastic Retreat''. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' Steep start right of the arete, pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and head for a large oval pocket in the slab. Tackle the rightmost of the cracks above, to a shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt. Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a narrow rounded ledge. Mantle the ledge then make a long move up and right from a big pocket to a good edge. Climb direct over a bulge and belay on two staples set back from the top. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish (PR missing), or better and harder, directly up the blunt arête passing 3 BRs. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC (2 BRs). Easier climbing up the slab (BR) leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack (BR) shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges (2 BRs) to gain a ledge and a simple run out finish. L.O. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). New L.O. on ''Deus ex machina'' 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to the right of IAN. Directly above are a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and follow a blind crack to gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Abseil from bolts a few feet back from the top. Report of the 3rd bolt in a very loose block so avoid this if possible. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the moves to live up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:West_and_east.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Bill Gregory and Alan Rosier on ''Western Front'' (Fr 7a) and ''Eastern Bloc Rock'' (Fr 7a+)]] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. behind a tree. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a''' Start below a shallow groove at 8m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Gain the boss and make a very long move up to good holds. Shared L.O. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a+''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6b''' Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. Belay or L.O. on nearby chain. 19 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. L.O below wide ledge.( await the extension once ledges above cleared) 11 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. BRs to tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall. Continues up the slab behind tree on L above a grassy ledge. L.O. 17 m. 

[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''

#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
# - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Proj closed
# - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-19T22:09:08Z

Roy thomas: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[image:Navigation-cover-thumb.jpg|thumb|400px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/navigation_quarry.pdf]]

'''There is a report of a Peregrine nesting between the routes ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''A Blank Abstract'' on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD will be updated to advise climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - E4, 6b''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the steep wall left of the ''Geeny'' ramp (PR / BR) to a roof. Place good Friends in pockets on the lip of the roof and overcome it using very thin holds. L.O. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under ''Elastic Retreat''. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. L.O. on the grassy ledge. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. 
#'''Project closed''' Drilled but not bolted yet. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 6a''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and head for a large oval pocket in the slab. Tackle the rightmost of the cracks above, to a graceful (or ungainly) exit onto the grassy ledge. The original route finished up the ''Squash Match'' ramp. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' An eliminate start narrowly avoids using the cracked pedestal of ''Rockover Beethoven'' and any of the holds left of its first two (shared) bolts. Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt. Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a narrow rounded ledge. Mantle the ledge then make a long move up and right from a big pocket to a good edge. Climb easily to a shared finish with ''Squash Match Direct''. Abseil station above. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish (PR missing), or better and harder, directly up the blunt arête passing 3 BRs. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC (2 BRs). Easier climbing up the slab (BR) leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack (BR) shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges (2 BRs) to gain a ledge and a simple run out finish. L.O. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). New L.O. on ''Deus ex machina'' 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to the right of IAN. Directly above are a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and follow a blind crack to gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Abseil from bolts a few feet back from the top. Report of the 3rd bolt in a very loose block so avoid this if possible. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the moves to live up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:West_and_east.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Bill Gregory and Alan Rosier on ''Western Front'' (Fr 7a) and ''Eastern Bloc Rock'' (Fr 7a+)]] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. behind a tree. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a''' Start below a shallow groove at 8m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Gain the boss and make a very long move up to good holds. Shared L.O. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a+''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6b''' Left trending corner (avoid Sheepbone choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. Belay or L.O. on nearby chain. 20 m. 
#'''Project closed''' Sexy stainless glue-ins, CLOSED PROJECT, so don't be tempted. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. BRs to tree. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 

[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''

#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Proj closed
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-17T20:55:01Z

Roy thomas: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[image:Navigation-cover-thumb.jpg|thumb|400px|right|'''Topo'''|link=https://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/navigation_quarry.pdf]]

'''There is a report of a Peregrine nesting between the routes ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''A Blank Abstract'' on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD will be updated to advise climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c'''. Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m. ''' 
## variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a broad slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 18m. Rising up from the grassy terrace is a steeper wall, with a prominent left to right ramp (the original finish to Squash Match). Left of the ramp is a long overhang, a vertical crack and gold bolt beneath mark the line of The Elastic Retreat.''

''Trad routes on the main wall require a good selection of cams for the breaks and numerous pockets.''

#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under ''Elastic Retreat''. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. L.O. on the grassy ledge. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' The sensible will pre-inspect. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 6a''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and head for a large oval pocket in the slab. Tackle the rightmost of the cracks above, to a graceful (or ungainly) exit onto the grassy ledge. The original route finished up the ''Squash Match'' ramp. 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - E4, 6b''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the steep wall left of the ''Geeny'' scoop (PR / BR) to a roof. Place good Friends in pockets on the lip of the roof and overcome it using very thin holds. L.O. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' An eliminate start narrowly avoids using the cracked pedestal of ''Rockover Beethoven'' and any of the holds left of its first two (shared) bolts. Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt. Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a narrow rounded ledge. Mantle the ledge then make a long move up and right from a big pocket to a good edge. Climb easily to a shared finish with ''Squash Match Direct''. Abseil station above. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish (PR missing), or better and harder, directly up the blunt arête passing 3 BRs. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC (2 BRs). Easier climbing up the slab (BR) leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack (BR) shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges (2 BRs) to gain a ledge and a simple run out finish. L.O. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). New L.O. on ''Deus ex machina'' 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to the right of IAN. Directly above are a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and follow a blind crack to gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Abseil from bolts a few feet back from the top. Report of the 3rd bolt in a very loose block so avoid this if possible. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the moves to live up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Included for historical interest only. Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:West_and_east.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Bill Gregory and Alan Rosier on ''Western Front'' (Fr 7a) and ''Eastern Bloc Rock'' (Fr 7a+)]] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. behind a tree. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a''' Start below a shallow groove at 8m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - E3, 6b( Fr 6c)''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock, with a BR at 12m. Gain the boss and make a very long move up to good holds. 
#'''Heart Throb - E1, 5c(6b bolted)''' Right again is a corner at 12m. Climb directly up to this on loose rock to 2 BRs. Make a tricky move up the corner and swing left onto slabs to finish. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit 6a+''' wall to R then traverse L below tree to upper slab and shared chain.Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The broken groove to the right.. 
#'''Project closed''' Drilled but not bolted yet. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. BRs to tree. 

[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''

#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR3 of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past 2BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retrobolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - New bolt added 2006
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Witches Cave

2017-09-14T09:00:07Z

Roy thomas:

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''open project''' The chimney trad,belay and cleaning needed. 
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Closed project''' Bolted but not cleaned,loose blocks at top,keep off! 
#'''project'' Wet chimney trad in waiting. 
#'''closed project''' Only holes to belay of Coc Oen 1.69m right of chimney. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Onco Fonco - Fr. 6b''' Easy coral slab leads to steepening and undercuts with tricky move onto ledge. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
#'''Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b **''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 10.09.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas solo 2017



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Witches Cave

2017-09-11T12:46:40Z

Roy thomas: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Onco Fonco Fr 6b''' Easy coral slab leads to steepening and undercuts with tricky move onto ledge. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
#'''Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b **''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#R.Thomas Giles Davis 2017
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 10.09.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones 2017
#R.Thomas solo 2017



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Witches Cave

2017-09-11T12:40:37Z

Roy thomas:

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco - Fr. 6b+ *''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Onco Fonco Fr 6b''' Easy coral slab leads to steepening and undercuts with tricky move onto ledge. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
#'''Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b **''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips
#R.Thomas R.Phillips
#R.Thomas Giles Davis
#R.Thomas Giles Davis
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas solo



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Witches Cave

2017-08-31T09:13:51Z

Roy thomas: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco Fr 6b+*''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
#'''Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b**''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas R.Phillips
#R.Thomas R.Phillips
#R.Thomas Giles Davis
#R.Thomas Giles Davis
#
#
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas R.Phillips 30.08.2017
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas E.T Jones
#R.Thomas solo



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 20061
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]

Witches Cave

2017-08-31T09:09:17Z

Roy thomas: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:Bridgend Area]]
[[Witches Point]]
[[Image:White witch topo.jpg|thumb|700px|right|[[Witches Cave]]]]
[[Image:Witches-Point-Myles-9786c-web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Myles Jordan repeating ''Phlegmatic Solution''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
[[Image:Roy-Thomas-New-Route-9813c-Web.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Roy Thomas on his route, ''Little Wrasse Cull''. Photo: [[User:Carl Ryan|Carl Ryan]]]]
''From the boulder field at sea level is a newly developing area with some dramatic geological features''
#'''Cachau Hwch - Fr. 5''' Pull onto a large platform to start the first of 3 routes. 
#'''Mewn Cachiad - Fr. 5''' The second route off the platform 
#'''Diawl Bach - Fr. 6b+''' Steep pulls gain the arete above the roof. Low in the grade. 
#'''Drewgi - Fr. 5b''' Start below the platform, the chimney and corner. 
#'''Coc Oen - Fr. 6b*''' Short corner leading to more downward sloping action with a sneaky handjamb. 
#'''Wnco Mwnco Fr 6b+*''' Tricky start off the narrow platform leads to juggy headwall. 
#'''Hen Gi - Fr. 6a+''' After a steep crozzly start pull over the arete onto ledges and shared belay. 
#'''Triciau Newydd - Fr. 5''' Start up the arete 1.69 m right of previous then pull up the hanging roof on big holds to shared belay on the left. 
#'''Pen Pidyn - HS,4b **''' From the knobbly slab take a series of ledgy pulls to gain the crack through the roof. Top out onto ledge and shared belay with the following. 
''The following routes start left of the cave on black stratified rock after a short step up.''
#'''Blaidd Drwg - HS''' The arete, topping out to bolt belay. Scramble back down or follow precarious grass path to the headland. 
#'''Rabbit From The Hat - V.Diff''' Take the most continuous line up the left retaining wall of the bay. 
#'''Fatman And Nob In - Fr 3+''' Try hard not to walk up the corner,don't use the creaky dinnerplate,two twizzles. 
#'''Gay Batman - Fr. 5''' Second line of bolts(hangers). Use twin P-bolts on ledge to lower-off. 
#'''Robins Yoghurt Supper - Fr. 5 *''' Shares a lower-off with the next route. 
#'''Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb into the V-corner beneath the roof and escape to the right. 
#'''Sorcerer's Assistant - Fr. 6a+''' Take care with slippery rock down low and loose rock above the ledge. 
#'''Magic Circle - Fr. 6a+''' Has similar health warnings to the previous route if you happen to be here when these conditions prevail i.e high humidity or if low tide is before 3pm when the sun hits the crag. 
#'''Smoke and Mirrors - Fr. 6b **''' An excellent steep route. Move quickly leftwards around the hanging arete and climb with interest to the ledge and a flake filled groove line above. 
#'''Great Expectorations - Fr. 6b**''' The stepped roof 3m right joining the top groove Pthegthorga Phlem.BB.11.345m. 
#'''Phlegmatic Solution - Fr. 6c''' Steep start leads to headwall after crossing the groove. 
#'''Pthegthorga Phlem - E2, 5a''' Just left of ''Evil Ways'', Bridgend Steve's route up the chossy groove. Loose. Are you sold on this one? 12m ''And now into the cave proper:'' 
#'''Evil Ways - E5, 6b/c (Fr. 7b) *''' A superbly technical proposition. Start below the left-hand end of the main crag roof. Climb easily to the lip and using a footlock, reach over the roof, crux. Stand up and teeter up the ever so slightly slabby upper wall to a baffling final move. 15m 
#'''Evil K'nee Full - Fr. 7a+ **''' Awesome, with a hilarious no hands rest for the short, involving a one leg knee bar at the lip. Start right of ''Evil Ways'', below a prominent jug on the lip of the roof. Climb up to the roof and stretch to the jug. Turn the lip and stand up to a possible no hands head jam rest below the overlap. Move up a faint rib to a tricky crux move up for a sharp edge and finish through the v-groove in the roof. At this grade, possibly the biggest sand-bag in South Wales. 18m 
#'''Closed Project''' Line of staples through the middle of the roof. 
#'''Open project''' A line of old bolt studs and pegs over the right end of the roof 
#'''White Witch - E5, 6b''' Pull over the roof as for ''Thin Lizzy'' or abseil into the little alcove at high tide., then traverse out above the lip, 2 PRs (rusted stumps). Step down following the weakness and then up to finish as for ''Evil k'nee full''. 31m 
#'''Thin Lizzy - Fr. 6c+ **''' Start below a corner at the right hand end of the roof. Pulling off the ground, is the crux. Once established on spikey holds, lay-away up the tricky crack to get established on the slab. Before reaching the roof, traverse left to the hanging v-groove. Finish over the roof with interest, taking care with some of the flakes. 18m 
#'''Wrasse Wipe - Fr. 6c''' Starting up ''Thin Lizzie'' then going up obvious groove/corner. (''Wrasse Wipe''; because its often got a damp bottom). ''To the Right of Thin Lizzie is an undercut wall of very spikey wave washed rock. This can be climbed even when wet due to the unbelievable friction and mostly solid embedded nobs of conglomerate.'' 
#'''Wrasse-putins Hypodermic Typewriter - Fr. 6b+ '''An exfoliating finger rub. Surmount the overhang on extremely sharp holds. Use same lower-off chain as ''Wrasse Wipe''. 
#'''Didymo Clogs Your Tackle - Fr. 6b''' More of the same with a long reach to the first substantial nob.. 
#'''Fishermen Pump Their Rods - Fr. 6a+''' Even more of the same. 
#'''Wrasse Bandit - Fr. 6b+''' More of the same, but harder. 
#'''Sore Wrasse - Fr. 6c''' Even harder, but the same. 
#'''Wrassetafarian – Fr. 6b+ *''' Much easier than it looks (i.e. the same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Cull - Fr. 6a''' A lot easier than most hereabouts.Short boulder type route passing the thread(same old same). 
#'''Little Wrasse Turd - H.Severe,4b''' Much easier but same old nob pulling with two good nuts after the first stiff pull. 
#'''Little Wrasse Tickler - H.Severe 4b''' 1.69m to the right pass a blue thread and faint crack where the angle soon eases. 
#'''Chateau LeFat 69 H.Severe 4b''' Gain the spike above the faint hollow with guess what?-a stiff nob pull. 
#'''Fishermen Mash Their Bait - H.Severe''' Nothing like the same as little nob pulling and an obvious left sloping crack with nuts involved. 
#'''The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist - Fr. 5+''' A real route at last.Two of life's greatest pleasures, bolts and nobs, above the lowest of the weed encrusted steps. 



==FIRST ASCENTS==


#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#
#
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas
#R.Thomas



#
#R.Thomas(solo) 1986
#R.Thomas (solo)Aug 2013
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D Emanuel, R. Thomas, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#D. Emanuel 2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon2009
#R. Thomas R.Phillips 2009
#R.Thomas ET Jones 18/06/2013
#R.Thomas E.T Jones Myles Jordan
#S.James, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1996
#M.Crocker 19.07.1986
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 02.09.1996
#project closed
#project open
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.07.1986
#M.Crocker, R.Thomas 19.07.1986
#R. Thomas 2009
#D. Emanuel, R. Philips 28/06/2009
#R.Thomas, N. O'Neill 2007
#R.Thomas, M. Hirst 2007
#R. Thomas, G. Ashmore 2006
#G. Ashmore, R. Thomas 2006
#G. Ashmore 13.06.2009
#R.Thomas Myles Jordan july 2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#N.O'Neill R.Thomas 06/08/2013
#R.Thomas solo 1986
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill 06/08/2013

[[Image:HYPO.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Dai Emanuel on Wrass-putins Hypodermic Typewriter. Fr. 6b]]