SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Taffs Well Pinnacle

2013-08-13T12:02:05Z

Imogenfish: /* Preamble */ Changing wording of paragraph about cleaning routes

[[Image:Taffs Pinnacle 1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The Milk Tray man training academy sample the delights of Taffs Pinnacle.]]
[[image:Newcrag-20.png|link=]]
[[Contents]]
[[Inland Limestone]]

GR: ST (3)12696, (1)83351

==Bolting Policy==

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist permission. New sports route allowed.

==Preamble==
A stunning sharks tooth pinnacle of limestone, 20 m high, west facing and only a stones throw from the A470 in Tongwynlais.

The pinnacle offers bolted routes of low to moderate difficulty, ideal for clubs, groups and beginners alike.

It is predominantly seepage free and the routes generally follow slabby groove lines with occasional steepenings.

This is a new crag in an urban situation. No permission to climb has been sought or granted. Please maintain a low profile as there are residential gardens within earshot.

As with any new crag, recent cleaning has been undertaken to remove both dangerous loose rock and invasive plants which would continue to break up the rock. There may be a limited amount of dust or ivy present on your chosen route, if this is a major problem for you, please take the time to clean it yourself.

The crag is frequented by the ubiquitous midge so be aware and take the usual steps to avoid being eaten alive...

==Access==
From the A470 roundabout on which '''[[Taffs Well|Taffs Well Main]]''' is situated drive north towards Taffs Well along the A4054 Cardiff Road. After 300 m take the first right, before the traffic lights, onto Ty Rhiw, which goes over the A470. After a further 350 m turn left into Forest Road (to Robert Price) and park considerately.

Opposite the T-junction is new woodland, enter this at the side of a low wall. The pinnacle is straight ahead of you, about 50 m from the road.
See [[Castle Quarry#Map|map]] at the bottom of the page.
==Descent==
Access to and from the top of the pinnacle is not difficult, however all routes have adequate lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.

== The Routes==
[[Image:Taffs pinnacle.jpg|700px|right|thumb|[[Taffs Well Pinnacle]]]]
''The routes are described from left to right.''
#''' Project - Fr. ''' Crystalline pockets to start, followed by a rising rightwards trending slab. L.O. To be cleaned. 
#''' Poppin’ in the Poop Deck - Fr.5+ ''' Straight up the twisting groove. L.O. to the left. 
#''' Megalodon - Fr. 6a''' Start as for ''Poop Deck'' to a rightwards traverse line skirting around, then over, a steep bulge. L.O. 
#'''Kiss the Gunner’s Daughter - Fr. 5+''' Pull over a bulge, to a stance beneath the triangular roof. Finish up a leftwards trending ramp and the shared L.O. of ''Megalodon''. 
#''' Angry Pirate - Fr.5+ ''' The clean rock to the left of the crags obvious central weakness, reachy. L.O. above the high corner. [[Image:Angry Pirate1.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Would you submit to the deviant fetishes of the Angry Pirate?.]]
#'''Sponge Bob - VD''' Rock too poor to bolt? Trad climb! Take the rounded arête of honeycombed rock (threads on your left). From a stance, step right (poor cam or bolt to the right) and pass two vertical shot holes to meet the L.O. 
#''' Sharktopus Vs Megapotamus - Fr. 4+''' Steep at first but soon easing off, join ''Sponge Bob'' at the shared L.O. 
#''' Yar! - Fr. 5''' The slabby groove direct. L.O. 
#''' Jurassic Shark - Fr.5+ ''' The rightmost line with a technical layback. At the top, traverse left on jugs to join the L.O. of ''Yar!''. 
===First Ascents===

#
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 23.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013
#A. Rosier & R. McAllister (Alt. leads) – 25.04.2013


[[Image:Yar.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Chris Gilbert - Yar! (Fr. 5)]]

==MAP==

{{
#display_points:
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|zoom=16
|centre=51.542278, -3.2602927
|service=openlayers
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher,mouseposition
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User talk:Imogenfish

2013-05-15T13:10:19Z

Imogenfish:

Who is..... Imogenfish? Good question! I like all forms of climbing, currently based in Cardiff but getting out across South Wales. I use the wiki quite a lot, and it only felt right to help out where I can!

Hi Imogen. Glad to have you working on the wiki with us.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 16:13, 1 May 2013 (BST)

Gap, The

2013-05-01T07:27:42Z

Imogenfish: Reformatting

[[Contents]][[Image:Gap 1.9.2007.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Partial Topo of the Lower Quarry, The Gap]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR: ST 080 963

==PREAMBLE==

A large and easily accessible east facing crag.

The climbs are generally on vertical faces with long reaches between small sharp flat holds.

Slightly midgy (but not all that bad until dusk).

The routes on the left hand wall of the Lower Quarry stay dry nearly all year round, which is handy, if you can handle the sub-zero winter temperatures that is.
[[Image:The Gap.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Lower Quarry, The Gap]]

==ACCESS==

Take the A470 to the large roundabout after Abercynon and take the Ystrad Mynach exit. Turn left at the next
roundabout (signposted to Treharris) and follow this for 1 mile to a narrow left turning over a bridge immediately before
a pelican crossing. Follow this road steeply uphill, and over a railway bridge, then take the first right. Follow this road
until the crag becomes visible up on the left. Turn left underneath the larger lower quarry. Park here for the lower crag.

Be warned that there have been car break ins and thefts from here. The upper quarry and natural edge to its left are
best reached by turning up the track leading out from the gravelled car park of the lower quarry. The best way to reach
the quarries from each other is to walk along the top of hill on which the crags are situated.

If on the train, stop at Abercynon. If stopping at Abercynon South walk 100m up the track to Abercynon North. Turn
left on exiting the station, and left again under a bridge where there is a T-junction. Turn left, and walk up to the first
proper right hand turning into an estate. Walk up this road until it is possible to take a left hand turn up a bumpy track
past a farm/garage. Walk up this road for ½ mile to a left hand fork just before a bridge over a dual carriageway. Take
the left-hand fork, and walk down this to the crag (½ mile). The approach time is about 30 minutes.

==THE ROUTES==

===Lower Quarry===

There is an excellent video guide available of the Lower Quarry [[http://www.vimeo.com/7248682 HERE]].

====Left Wall====

''The left wall is a popular spot, being plumb vertical on good rock and almost permanently dry.''
[[Image:Bluster.jpg|550px|thumb|right|Climber on ''Bluster''.]]

#'''As it Was VS 4b''' Old school as it was complete with gate hinges,scrap iron and scaffold pipe Lower off, climb the first short wall on the left. 8m. 
#'''Kabuto Mushi - Fr. 6a+''' The small wall to the right. 9m. 
#'''Yikes - Fr. 6b+''' Short and fingery. 9m. 
#'''So Uncool - Fr. 6c *''' Right of a little broken rock is a steep wall bisected by a ramp. Follow the problematic lower wall to the ramp. Lower-off on the right. 12m. 
#'''Just Hanging Around - E1, 5b *''' The crack to the right to the BB of ''So Uncool''. 12m. 
#'''Bluster - Fr. 6b *''' The first of two fingery and ever-dry climbs with a shared lower off. Upgraded due to loss of footholds. 14m. 
#'''Fluster - Fr. 6b *''' Shares a lower off and last bolt with it's sister route ''Bluster''. 14m. 
#'''Marlin On The Wall - Fr. 6a+ *''' Much better than first appearances suggest and tastefully decorated with useful maritime implements. From the banking follow the BRs past an industrial strength poker. 14m. 
#'''Don't Blame Me Fr. 6b''' To the right of ''Marlin''. Climb direct on edges and incuts to a mallion lower off. 14m. 
#'''Sumo No Shiro - Fr. 6b+''' Not without interest. Just left of the corner is an attractive green cave at 9m. Climb up to this and pass the lip with some trepidation, before bombing up the wall to a BB. 15m. [[Image:Shackles of love.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Climber on ''Shackles of Love''.]]

====Main Wall====

''The left hand side of the main wall has received a highly productive Roy Thomas face lift. The first three routes are centred around the big cave.''

#'''Canine League - Fr. 6a+''' Climb the wall just right of the large corner to a big ledge. Continue directly to an exciting flake and finish directly over the roof, using a handy borehole. 17m. 
#'''Sleeping Dogs Lie - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow the huge handrail out to the lip of the first roof. Amble up the dirty wall to the right hand end of the roof. Swing round the roof to a shelf. 18m. 
#'''Don't Bark Yet - Fr. 7a''' The new line right of ''Sleeping Dogs Lie''. Hard move pulling out of the cave onto the head wall. 18m. 
#'''Smack My Bitch Up - Fr. 6b+''' Start at the 3 bolts in the right wall of the cave finish on shared belay. 17m. 
#'''Generation Bitch Fr. 6b''' Start as for ''Generation Gap'' at the 2nd bolt pass the bulge and headwall as for the top part of ''Smack My Bitch Up'' to the shared lower off. 17m. [[Image:Land of Dinosaurs.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Crispin on ''Land of Dinosaurs''.]]
#'''Generation Gap - Fr. 5+''' Mostly supersceeded by retro bolted variants. 17m. 
#'''Mr. Farady - Fr. 6a''' The original line now fully bolted takes the jammimng crack then the groove above.The easiest warm up is to combine the first part of ''Generation Gap'' then step right into the groove at Fr 5.17m 
#'''Poker In The Eye - Fr. 6a+ **''' There is a series of stepped roofs, with someone’s GCSE metalwork project (they failed!) hammered into it just to the right of the start of ''Mr. Farady''. Climb directly through the overlaps and follow more BRs up to a BB. 17m. 
#'''Grout Expectations - Fr. 6a''' The roof and groove right again. 17m. 
#'''Shackles Of Love - Fr. 6a''' A similar line to the right.Stick clip may be required by the faint hearted. 17m. 
#'''The Frightening Looking Flake - E2, 5c''' Obvious, according to the first ascensionist ‘It’s more of a bag than a route’.Cleaned and reascended recently 18m. 
#'''Ring Of Confidence Fr. 6b *''' Formerly a poorly protected frightener, now a good route which is tough for the grade. The ‘stuck on flake’ down to the right of ''The Frightening Looking Flake'' is followed to a ledge. Interest is maintained on the upper slab. 18m. 
#'''Get Flossed - Fr. 7a+''' Desperate start leads to easier climbing, finish up 'Ring of Confidence'. 17m. ''Many of the harder routes from ''Loctite'' to ''Pleasant Valley Sunday'' have lost holds in the past few years creating slightly harder propositions than in the past. The grades are being reassessed and hopefully a consensus will be reached after a few more ascents.'' 
#'''Loctite - Fr. 7b / 7b+ *''' Right of ''Get Flossed'' wall is a blank-looking wall with a pillar above. Make a very difficult pull up on micro edges to eventually gain the ledge and follow the tower above, BB. The hardest technical move at the Gap. 17m. 
#'''Land Of The Dinosaurs - Fr. 6b''' Up the cracks to the right to a chain at 15m, or better, continue slightly left from the BB to finish up 'Loctite' at Fr.6c. 17m. 
#'''A Momentary Lapse Of Reason - Fr. 7b+ / 7c *''' A controversial route, currently without a finish. Climb the slim wall right of Land Of The Dinosaurs, sustained and fingery, to a (missing spike) ledge and rest. Move up to the roof, and make an awkward move on big slopers to a staple above the roof. Used to avoid the roof by going round to the left and really needs a proper finish, which is thought to be more like Fr.8a. 17m. 
#'''Rattle Those Tusks - Fr. 6b **''' The second big crack and roof. Probably the best Fr.6's at 'The Gap'. The tusk sadly met its demise in late 1994. 18m. [[Image:The Gap1.jpg|350px|thumb|right|Olivier climbing Rattle those Tusks. Lower Quarry, The Gap. Photo, Mark Salter]]
#'''Mad At The Sun - Fr. 7c / 7c+ **''' Climb the corner right of Rattle Those Tusks to a small roof. From here, make a very intricate sequence of moves out left to a good two finger hold (crux). Move up and left to a slot, then follow the much easier upper wall to a rest below the roof. More hard moves through the roof lead to the BB. 20m. 
#''' Leave It To Me Fr. 6c''' A new route in between Mad at the Sun & Salmon Running, Bear Cunning. Once a `Big gun show start' (until a lower bolt added), there is fine climbing above to be had using the corner, crack and adjacent left wall. Don't stray onto the right face until the head wall is reached. 14m. 
#'''Salmon Running, Bear Cunning - Fr. 7a *''' Right side of the arete, to a staple lower off. 18m. #'''John West - Fr. 7b''' Follow Salmon Running, Bear Cunning past its new BB to the top (rusty looking) chain via a very fingery move. 20m. 
#'''Anything You Can Do - Fr. 7b *''' To the right of the arete a line of BRs goes up past some shot holes, with some seepage generally present in the first 6m. The move through the thin roof at 11m is hard as is the headwall. Land up on a ledge and either walk over to the BR on Salmon Running or do the direct finish. 15m. 
#'''I Can Do Better - Fr. 7b *''' A more logical, but quite nasty direct finish to 'Anything You Can Do'. Feels insecure although is reasonable for the grade (6a). Touch the top of the crag. 20m. 
#'''Encore! Magnifique! - Fr. 7b / 7b+ ***''' An excellent route with reasonable holds throughout, in fact, contrary to the majority of the routes hereabouts, it may have become a little easier with the recent increase of traffic. Climb straight up to the left-hand side of a strip roof at 5m, hand traverse to its right-hand end and make a strenuous lock to gain better holds and a shot hole. From good jugs at the 3rd staple, make tricky moves left or right, then tackle the undercut flake to pockets, edges and the top. Drop back down onto the belay from the top. 21m. 
#'''Pleasant Valley Sunday - Fr. 7b **''' Climb the wall left of the obvious arete at the right-hand side of the main wall. If lanky, make a big stretch from the square pockets to big jugs. If normal make a tricky cross through out left to a short groove, this is entered and exited with extreme difficulty. Continue directly to the lower off chain. 18m. 
#'''One Track Mind - Fr. 7a *''' The impressive right-hand arete of the main wall climbed on its right. 18m. 
#'''Traverse - E3,6a''' For people who have done everything. Start up Ring Of Confidence, then hand traverse the ledge clipping various bits of in situ gear. Continue in the same line into Land Of the Dinosaurs, then move right onto an incut edge on A Momentary Lapse of Reason, which is followed to the iron spike and big sloper. Step right and down to the TR on Rattle Those Tusks, then move across and up the easy section of Mad At The Sun. Pull worryingly up onto the ledge at the top of the Salmon Running, Bear Cunning arete, clip the BR above, then walk across (with serious rope drag) to the finish of I Can Do Better, BB. 35m [[Image:The Gap2.jpg|450px|thumb|right|Laura Jones on Salmon Running, Bear Cunning. Lower Quarry, The Gap. Photo, Mark Salter]]

====Right Hand Walls====

''The centre of the wall just to the right of the arete contains a single route.''

#'''Greased Balls - Fr. 6c *''' The stapled wall is excellent. Avoid the temptation of following ''Rain and Tears'' above half height, it could get messy. Used to be a sandbag. 18m. 
#'''Rain And Tears - E1, 5b''' The rarely done corner groove and crack, PR. 18m. 
#'''Full Bag - E2, 5b''' A much better route than it looks (apparently!). Start up the groove right of the corner and head for the crack. PR, BB. 18m. 
#'''Controlled Emission - Fr. 6b+ **''' A popular route and scene of an impressive rockfall over the 2010/2011 winter. Start right of the last groove at a faint upside down scoop taken by a line of staples. Follow this (crux) up and right to a ledge and finish up the fingery wall above to a BB out right. 18m. 
#'''Sperm Wail - Fr. 7a+ *''' Recently reto-bolted but still a bit run out. 18m. 
#'''Scrotum Oil - Fr. 6c *''' Good. Follow the right hand arete of the rectangular wall to a rest at the ledge, then follow the faint scoop to a BB at the top. 18m. 
#'''Naked Truth - HVS, 5a''' The traditional crack to the right feels wobbly. 18m. [[Image:Pick Up the Pieces.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Climber on ''Pick Up the Pieces''.]]
#'''Has the Fat Lady Sung? - Fr. 6b''' The short wall leads to a ledge and shallow cave,pull out of this and proceed carefully up the wall.19m. 
#'''Pick Up The Pieces - Fr. 6a+''' The wall and diagonal flake to the right. 18m. 

====Scoundrels Cave Area====

''The last area to be developed at The Gap. Perfect Scoundrels is good but the other filler routes are unlikely to become classics.''

#'''Retro Butt In - HVS, 5a''' Start left of the obvious cave, and climb the corner, 2BRs until it is possible to step out right to a crack. PR, wires. Finish up this to the BB on the next route. 17m. 
#'''Perfect Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+''' Start in the back of the cave and follow greasy jugs out to the lip. Pull up onto a flat ledge via an arete, TR, and follow the left-hand side of the arete to a BB. 15m. 
#'''Butt Out - Fr. 5+ / 6a''' Start on the right side of the cave, climb past some dubious rock onto grassy ledge then up the head wall. 15m. 
#'''Per Rectum - Fr. 4+''' Slab on right hand side of cave.Share bolts with next route. 7m. 
#'''Stool Sample - Fr. 5''' Just left of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the lower quarry. 7m. 
#'''As It Is - Fr. 5+''' A short route up the right side of arete. 6m. 
#'''Turd Strangler - Fr. 6c''' Last but one route in the lower quarry. 8m. 
#'''Dai Horrea - Fr. 6b''' The last route,some good moves. 7m. 

===The Edge===

200m up to the right of the Lower Quarry is a series of natural sandstone buttresses, which become more continuous
as the Upper Quarry is reached on the right. The first notable feature is a gully. The first route is situated on the stacked
green blocks well to the left of the gully.

#'''Chapeau Verte VS 4c''' The centre of the stacked green(feminine hatted) blocks.8m. 
#'''Blockbuster HVS,5a''' The centre of the blocks on the left side of the gully, taken more or less centrally.8m. 
#'''Always A Molehill HVS,5b''' The left arete of the right side wall of the gully, climbed on the right throughout. PR near the top.6m. 
#'''Once A Molehill HVS,5a''' The wall round to the right between two wide cracks.8m 
#'''Personal Stash E3,6a *''' Left arete of the front face of the wall up a crack, then climb the arete direct(large Friend at top).9m 
#'''Luddites E3,5c *''' The left-hand set of drilled PRs on the front face of the rectangular buttress.9m 
#'''Livin' On A Prayer E6 6c*''' Up the middle,runners at 4m,serious slopy top out,no mats on first ascent.9m. 
#'''Trouble At Mill E3,6a *''' The right-hand set of naughty drilled PRs defines this fingery route.9m. 
#'''Then There Is A Mountain E3,6a''' Climb the wall left of the right arete of buttress to a finger jug at 6m. Make a hard move out to the right arete and finish up it. Unprotected, but with a reasonable landing.Mats weren't invented on first ascent.9m. 
#'''Juggery Pokery 5m E1,6a''' A poor route over the centre of the roof on the short natural buttress round to the right Any deviation from the centremakes things considerably easier than 6a. A large sling is needed for protection.5m. 
''Round to the right is a more continuous wall, which runs into the Upper Quarry. Towards the left side of the wall is
a wide crack (Old Dog).''
#'''Thompson Bank Watch 6m E1,6a''' Scrapes the bottom of the barrel. Climb the narrow wall left of the wide crack without any deviation to either side.Very contrived. 2PRs.6m. 
#'''Old Dog VS,4c''' The apparent offwidth is taken by a series of satisfying jug pulls.6m. 
#'''New Tricks E1,5b''' Gain the arete to the right of Old Dog and follow it to a PR. Move slightly left to finish on good holds (poor Friend).8m. 
#'''Tall Story E2,5b''' Start at the left end of the roof to the right, then undercut right the way round it. Poor gear.12m. 
#'''In Over My Head E3,6b *''' Spectacular and committing. Start below the centre of the big roof on an uncomfortably tall boulder, PR. Climb past a PR (hard), to a rest on undercuts under the roof. Lean off a flake in the roof and hope that the PR is in good shape. This can be backed up with a Friend ½ and 1. Pull spectacularly up to finish. Throw a rope down the back of the roof to belay from the floor!11m. 
#'''Mister Natural E2,5c''' To the right is a pod-like groove. Take this all the way up (harder than it looks) to an easier finish up the slab.12m. 
#'''Surprise, Surprise E1,5c''' Immediately right is a blocky crack. Up this, PR, moving slightly left and up to a hidden flake. Move up and step back right to finish up a groove. 11.69m 
#'''Audio Pornography E3,5c''' Start up the quarried wall to the right, PR. Finish directly up on natural holds (good Friends) to a sloping top out. Belay well back on a large boulder. 9m. 

[[Image:Steve Delaney trying to get gear in on Audio Pornography - E3,5c.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Steve Delaney trying to get gear in on Audio Pornography - E3,5c. Photo by Mark Davies]]

===The Upper Quarry===

Although it can be cold when windy there are some good routes that are shorter in height than their bigger cousins in the Lower Gap. Unless described otherwise the routes belay on the boulders set well back.

[[Image:Upper Gap.jpg|550px|thumb|centre|Upper Gap]]

#'''Gladwyn Tidings HS,4a''' The offwidth at the extreme left-hand side of the quarry. 8m. 
#'''Newton’s Apple- Fr5 *''' A very popular route up the slab to the right. Sling around boulder at the top. 11m. 
#'''Dirty Gerty VS,4c *''' The obvious rounded crack to the right. 12m. 
#'''Acceleration Due To Gravity HVS,4c''' The thinner crack to the right. 12m. 
#'''It’s A Sine Fr6a+''' The bolted slab right again, with a long rockover. Chain belay. 12m. 
#'''Tangent E3,5c''' The slime infested and vegetated corner to the right. A PR may or may not be in situ. 12m. 
#'''Scared Seal Banter Fr7a+''' The wall right of the corner is awkward to on-sight. BB. 14m. 
#'''The Mastic Mick Fr6c''' Climb directly up onto the jug above an overlap and left of the central offwidth of the quarry. Make a stiff pull up to a big pocket, then finish quite easily up the headwall. BB. 14m. 
#'''Cled’s Crack HVS,5a''' Rubbish climbing on big loose jugs up the central off-width of the quarry. Much easier than it looks. Belay on boulders set well back. 14m. 
#'''The Grout Of San Romano Fr6c **''' Sandstone’s first polished route! The wall right of the offwidth has a hard start, with interest well maintained above. 12m. 
#'''Brush Up ''' '''- HVS,5a''' The corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Step Up ''' '''- E1,5a''' The slab right of the corner, via a thin crack. Large Friend low down and PR. 12m 
#'''The Godfather ''' '''- Fr. 6a''' '''*''' The right arete of the quarry. Gain the shelf on its right and teeter up. Swing left and finish up the arete. 12m 
#'''Up Yours ''' '''- Fr. 5+''' '''**''' The arete 3m right again is a superb jug trip, 2PRs. 11m 
#'''Smoothie ''' '''- HVS,5c''' A trivial problem up the front of the wall to the right. PR. 6 
#'''Windy Edge - E1,5b *''' Good. The last arete just round to the right from the quarry, PR. Check out the scenic views down and right. 8m 
#'''Mortar Life - Fr.4+''' The short wall immediately right. 8m 
#'''Shorter Life - Fr.4+''' The short wall passing the twig. 
#'''O Solo Mio - HVS,5b''' Directly facing Windy Edge on the other side of the gap that gives the crag its name, is a short, square buttress. On the left-hand side of its main face is a thin crack, defining this route. 8m 
#'''Chips With Everything ''' '''- E1,5c''' A double helping up the wall right of O Solo Mio, PR. 8m 

[[Image:Upper Gap - right outcrop.jpg|550px|thumb|right|Upper Gap - Right Outcrop]]

==FIRST ASCENTS==



'''Lower Quarry'''

'''Left Wall'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

2. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, A.Japanese 00.00.1993

3. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 25.03.1990

4. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 06.02.1993

5. R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990

6. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

7. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

8. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

9. Matt Hirst 0000

10. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, A.Japanese 00.00.1993

'''Main Wall'''

1. R.Thomas, S.Coles 22.09.1994

2. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

3. Matt Hirst

4. R. Thomas

5. Roy Thomas 0000

6. G.Royle, R.Thomas 00.00.1993

7. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

8. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

9. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

10. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

11. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

12. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

13. G.Gibson 18.06.1994

14. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 15.07.1989

15. R.Thomas, G.Davies, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

16. T.Foster, P.Harding 00.06.1989

17. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

18. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1990

19. Matt Hirst 0000

20. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 17.06.1990

20A. E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1992

21. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.04.1990

21A. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.06.1992

22. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 25.03.1990

23. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 18.07.1989

24. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 11.07.1989

Traverse - C.Evans 04.08.1994

'''Right Hand Walls'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

2. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

3. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

4. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1993

5. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11.04.1990

6. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

7. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 12.08.1990

8. R.Thomas 00.00.2009

9. R.Thomas 00.00.1991

'''Scoundrels Cave Area'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

2. T.Penning, P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1990

G.Gibson - Direct 18.06.1994

3.R.Thomas

4. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

5.Nick O'Neill

6.R.Thomas

7.Matt Hirst

8.R.Thomas

'''The Edge'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

2. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

3. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

4. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

5. D.Meek 00.00.1985

6. M.Learoyd 00.05.1992

7. Morgan Preecey

8. M.Learoyd 00.05.1992

9. M.Crocker 04.03.1990

10. D.Viggars, P.Donnithorne 06.06.1991

11. Gwent MC 00.00.1995

12. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

13. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

12. P.Thomas, T.Hall 00.00.1987

14. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

15. R.Thomas, M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

16. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

17. M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

The Upper Quarry

1. Gwent MC 00.00.1995

2. R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990

3. G.Royle, J.Bullock, R.Thomas, Mick Learoyd 00.00.1990

4. G.Royle, J.Bullock, R.Thomas,Mick Learoyd 00.00.1990

5. R.Thomas 05.05.1995

6. P.Thomas 00.00.1988

7. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

8. M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

9. P.Thomas, T.Hall 00.00.1987

10. M.Crocker 04.03.1990

11. R.Thomas, G.Royle, 00.00.1990

12. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

13. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990

14. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

15. M.Learoyd, J.Bright, G.Royle,R.Thomas 00.00.1990

16. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

17. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

18. R Thomas (solo) 00.00.2004

19. M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

20. M.Learoyd 00.00.1994

Gelli

2013-04-26T12:18:56Z

Imogenfish: Adding Grid Reference of Crag

[[Contents]][[Image:gelli2.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|none]] 

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR SS 982 945

== BOLTING POLICY ==

Quarried sandstone, the more the merrier.

== PREAMBLE ==
Now regeared will prove popular. A bit of a flog to get to (10 mins uphill) but catches the late sun and has commanding views down the whole of Rhondda Fawr. Lots for the Fr. 6a+ and below climber. A few remaining trad routes for the jaded which fitted the description on the "1989 tin" but who knows which "2012 tin" they belong in?

The rock is excellent and compact on the majority of routes.

== ACCESS ==
From the M4 Jct.34 take the A4119 highway to the Rhondda Valley arriving at Tonypandy. Do not go into the town but follow the road past the retail centre turning left on the B4223. Pass Glyncornel outdoor centre following the signs for Gelli. Park outside the Gelli rubbish compound then walk left up the track past the sultry goats and well hung donkeys.

== DESCENTS ==
Old fence posts for some of the trad routes. Sport routes have Lower Offs.

== THE ROUTES ==
[[Image:Gelli left topo2.jpg|centre|none|thumb|700px|'''Left Walls''']]
===Gelli left===
''Described from left to right facing the crag''
#'''Fools On Horses - Fr. 6a''' The left side of the short black wall at the start of the crag. 9m. 
#'''Free Lunch Fr ??''' Open Project, lucky for you they are glue bolts. 9m. 
#'''Green Arete - VS, 4c''' The obvious green arete. Belay on posts. 11m. 
#'''K.E.S - HVS, 5a''' Slabby wall right of the arete, PR near top. 11m. ''To the right is another wall'' 
#'''Feeling Lucky - Fr. 6a*''' The short left side of the arete,common belay up and right. A test of sandstone judgement. 9m 
#'''Wot No Metal - E1, 5c''' The Y-crack just right of the arete. 9m. 
#'''Little Treasure - Fr. 6a+''' Scooped wall. 9m. 
#'''Toil - HVS, 5a''' Faint crack just left of grassy crack, resist the temptation to step into it. 9m. 
#'''My Little Pony's On The Job - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb the left edge of the next wall which is right of the grassy crack.Avoid the crack until just below the top,Shared belay on the right. 10m. 
#'''Galvanised - Fr. 6a+ **''' Curving crack on wall right of grassy crack, move left to belay or use belay above ledge at 6a. 9m. 
#'''Lost In Time - Fr. 6b+ *''' Forgotten when the old hanger was relocated. Left of the now obvious Pine, first hanger spins hard bouldery start. 9m. 
#'''Hoarse Trader - Fr. 4+''' The arete right of the pine tree. 10m. 
#'''Marinated Goat Cheese - Fr. 4''' Start from the grassy steps a little further right. 9m. 
===Red Walls===
''Down and right is a red wall and an adjacent slab'' 
[[Image:Gelli-red-wall2.jpg|700px|thumb|centre|none|''Titanium Man'' to ''Down Under'']] 
#'''Squeezing The Curd - Fr. 5''' The short wall at the left side of this section,continue up ''Marinated Goat Cheese'' or walk off.4m. 
#'''The Babcock Test - Fr. 6b''' Short but sharp,avoid stepping into the bounding cracks. 6m. 
#'''Titanium Man - E1, 5b''' Steep crack R of grassy chimney. Needs digging out. 9m. 
#'''Straight From The Frog's Mouth Fr ?''' Project.9m. 
#'''Tobacco King - Fr.6a+ *''' Crack just to right, shared belay above the grass slope. 9m. 
#'''Cigarillo - Fr. 6b+ *''' Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay. 9m. 
#'''Down Under - Fr. 4+ ***''' Start at the bottom left side of the slab stepping R, finish more steeply L of the arete. 15m. 
===Recessed Wall===
''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor'' 
#'''All Talk - Fr. 6a+''' The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack, make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step right to shared belay. 15m. 
#'''Talking Hoarse - Fr. 5+''' Gain and follow the faint groove. 15m. 
#'''Little Taff - Fr. 6a+ * ''' Thin crack on the left side of wall, belay above small strip roof. 12m. 
#'''Hoarse Whisperer - Fr. 6b **''' Start as for next route but move left, continue steeply to shared belay, pumpy. 12m. 
#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier - Fr. 6b**''' Wall to right immediately left of grassy corner crack, double "twizzle" belay. 12m. 
#'''Something That Came Up Much Later - Fr. 4''' The corner bridging out to a belay on the grass ledge. 12m. 
#'''Unearthed - HS *''' Crack in sidewall then groove above ledge.Shared belay in place just below the top. 12m. 

===Gelli Right===
''On the next wall to the right''
[[Image:Gelli right from corner.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|none|Gelli Right]] 
#'''Ladyboy's Cage - Fr. 6a''' Can you escape the cage? Do you want to escape the cage? If you try to escape will it make the ladyboy angry? Why are you wearing tight red pants? The left side of the wall via prominent flake to shared belay chain. 8m. 
#'''Worzel Budgie Spunker - Fr. 6b+''' Delicate yet brutal route following the crack up and rightwards. Shared belay chain. 
#'''Talking Shop - Fr. 6a''' The vague arete after gaining the left end of the ledge.Take care not to try and use the rubble on the left. 12m. 
#'''Hoarse Trader - Fr. 5+''' Gain the large flake on the ledge,continue to the shared belay chain of''Talking Shop''. 12m. 
#'''Snorting Horse - E1, 5a''' The diagonal crack starting up ''Talking Shop'' and finishing at the belay of ''Empty Talk''. Be strong don't clip the bolts. 12m. 
#'''Worzel Cloaca Sniffer - Fr. 6a+ *''' Gain the ledge,continue to the flaring crack and pod,single bolt lower off.It is possible to go right and lower off ''Empty Talk'' at a slightly harder Fr. 6b. 12m 
#'''Empty Talk - Fr.6a *''' Gain the large graffitied ledge, continue steeply to the belay on the tower. 12m. 
#'''Gilding The Lily Fr 6a*''' Gain the right side of the ledge,lay away off the small blocky roof to gain two pockets in the wall.12m. 
#'''Polishing The Turd(closed project)''' Awaiting dryness,bolts and the removal of even more lethal blocks,look at the pile below!! 12m 
#'''Ice Station Gelli - Fr. 6a+ *''' Starting from the floor right of the graffitied ledge. 12m. 
#'''One In Her Eye - Fr. 6b+ ***''' Immediately left of the grassy step with a tricky move at 3rd bolt and pumpy headwall. 12m. 
#'''Send In The Specials - Fr. 6a+ *''' Step left from the grassy step at the right side of the wall. 12m. 
#'''Hole In One - Fr. 5+''' Direct from grass step via several large pockets. 10m. ''Follow the track up and right'' 
#'''Donkey Work - Fr. 6a+''' The short ,steep wall rising out of a small bay where the track leads up on the right(staples). 8m. 

==First Ascents==


GELLI LEFT

#Roy Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
#Project open-
#Gary Lewis 1989
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#Roy Thomas G Royle 1989
#Mick Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#G. Lewis 1989
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshan 22/05/2012
#R. Thomas G. Royle 1990
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1990
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012

RED WALLS

# R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#G. Royle R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1990
#Closed Project
#M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1990
#M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes, R.Thomas 1990
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd, G Royle, L.Foulkes

RECESSED WALL

#R.Thomas D. Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, L. Foulkes, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, E.Rees, D.Emanuel 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas, solo 1989

GELLI RIGHT
#D.Emanuel Ed Rees 2012
#D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1989
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 25/07/2012
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 24/04/2013
#project closed
#M.Learoyd, G.Lewis 1990
#R. Thomas, N. O'Neill Aug 2012
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 1990
#G. Lewis, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R.Phillips, R.Leyshan 22/05/2012

Penallta

2013-04-21T12:35:19Z

Imogenfish: ReFormatted Solid block of text to be more readable

At 120 ft high, south facing and seepage free Penallta is S E Wales answer to a reasonable Sandstone trad crag.

Apparently the severe climb Alley Crack has lost a jug. Because of scratch marks around the missing block it has been suggested that it was prised off, the reason for doing this is unknown. The climb should be regarded as a little tougher, maybe Hard Severe.

[[Image:penallta1.jpg|700px|thumb|centre|]]

[[Image:penallta2.jpg|500px|thumb|centre|]]

[[Image:penallta3.jpg|400px|thumb|centre|The popular VD climb 'Devils in Hell' follows the central corner of the crag.]]

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR138948
==PREAMBLE==
A good quality sandstone outcrop, probably the first scene of early sandstone exploration. The friction is excellent and
the crag dries rapidly after rain. Protection can be a bit sparse on the harder routes and some of the flakes in the
‘Scabs’ and ‘Klingon’ area are a little brittle.
==ACCESS==
If on foot, from Ystrad Mynach train station proceed down onto the main road, turn left, and walk up the road for 200m.
The crag is now visible over on the right and is accessed by the obvious track leading leftwards across the fields.
If approaching by car from Ystrad Mynach, pass under the railway bridge on the A472 and take the first right which
leads into a housing estate. Take the first left into Griffith Street and park on the rough road on the right-hand side at the
end of the street. An obvious path leads left across the fields to arrive at the crag in about 300m.
==THE ROUTES==
The crag has a somewhat scrappy middle section, left of which is the prominent undercut pinnacle taken by Scabs.
This pinnacle splits the two upper amphitheatres. Right of the central section is big slabby face capped by a large roof.
Left of the pinnacle is a sharply undercut buttress and a final small bay. The routes are described from left to right,
starting from this bay. 
===Far Left Hand Bay===
#'''Limbo 8m VS,4c *''' The short arete at the extreme left-hand side of the crag, on its left.8m. 
#'''The Leap 8m HVS,4c''' The wall immediately right of the arete, finishing up the left-hand side of the arete.8m. 
#'''Cornflake 11m HVS,5a''' The wall immediately to the right.11m. 
#'''Afterthought 14m HS,4b''' The obvious overgrown corner, swinging left into the crack at the top, which provides the only real difficulty. Unknown Pre-1978 
#'''Cadet’s Route 12m VD''' The wall just right of the corner, exiting via a crack in the wall above.12m.Unknown Pre-1978 
#'''The Wolery 14m S''' Start immediately left of Spiney Norman and climb the wall just left of the crack, to finish up a crack just left of the chimney.14m. 
#'''Spiney Norman 14m HS,4c *''' Round to the right is an undercut buttress, at the left-hand end of which is a large boulder. Make a bold rockover, and continue up the slab to a generous terrace, stop for a picnic, then finish up the large chimney at the left-hand edge of the shelf.14m. 
#'''Anarchia 20m E2,5b''' The overhang on the left side wall of the buttress, just right of the Wolery, bold. Finish up on shelves just right of the chimney.C.Parker 00.00.1983 
#'''Rhymney And Cocaine 6m E4,6c *''' A very powerful boulder problem up the vague flake halfway along the upper terrace (gained from Y-Fronts) PR, with long sling. G.Ashmore 28.09.1997 
===Lower Left Hand Amphitheatre===
#'''Y-Fronts 21m S''' The right-hand side of the undercut buttress marks the start of the lower left hand amphitheatre. There is an obvious chimney in the left-hand wall. Climb the slab which forms the left side of the chimney until an obvious traverse line leads out left onto the terrace. Finish as for Spiney Norman. 
#'''Split Crotch Variation 18m E1,5b *''' Climb the corner right of Y-Fronts directly to the roof and a very wide bridge (the Third Severn Crossing). Swing out left above Y-Fronts, then take the wall above the right hand end of the terrace to an exciting finish on slopers. C.Hurley 00.02.1978 
#'''Maginot Line 9m E1,5b''' A poor line. Start up Split Crotch Variation and reach a pocket in the right wall. Use this to swing right to the top of Klingon. A.Sharp 00.00.1976 
#'''Klingon 8m E2,5c *''' The blunt arete to the right has a hard start, little if any gear and a dyno off loose flakes to a good flat topped ledge.Slide off into the Upper Amphitheatre to finish.S.Lewis 00.00.1976 
#'''Eeyore’s Gloomy Place 15m VD''' Very apt. The dense tropical forest just right of Klingon. Finish up the unpleasant chimney at the left-hand side of the upper amphitheatre.I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Pinnacle Chimney 15m D''' Start below the tree growing out of the centre of the bay. Follow the steps up to the upper amphitheatre and finish up the chimney directly behind.Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Dinsdale 15m S''' The obvious crack in the right wall. Finish up the right-hand chimney of the upper amphitheatre.I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Too Risky 15m VS,4c''' As for Dinsdale for 5m to the break, then traverse right to a ledge. Climb up to the huge ledge above the front face of Scabs, and finish either left or right with little interest. T.Penning Pre-1985 
===Upper Left Hand Amphitheatre===
#'''Hell For Pleasure 9m E1,5b''' The left-hand wall of the amphitheatre. C.Court 00.00.1984''' 
#'''Sheer Pleasure 9m E1,5b''' The face immediately right of the righ- hand chimney. T.Penning Pre-1985 
===Pinnacle Area===
#'''Stitches On Scars 12m E5,6b *''' Right of Too Risky on the left hand side of the lower part of the Scabs pinnacle is a jug by a prominent PR held in with 6” nails. Stick Clip this, as many of the holds in the roof are now much looser. Make a huge dyno for the jug, then make hard moves right and up to finish, M.Crocker, R.Thomas 04.03.1989 
#'''Stitches Direct 12m E6,6a *''' Start up Scabs, but pull left to gain the base of the arete and finish up this. Very bold. G.Williams 00.00.1997 
#'''Scabs 12m E3,5b **''' The most famous route on the crag. Start directly below the main overhang and power up to a tricky step right to a horizontal flake. Move up and left to finish. Please do not place protection this route - the gear will not hold and the crucial flake will be destroyed. P.Littlejohn solo 00.00.1982 
#'''Shriekback 12m E5,6a''' Horrid. The roof right of Scabs, via two pockets and a wafer thin flake, to a blind jump for a hold just left of a protrusion just above the lip of the overhang. Slap up again, then move left to finish up Scabs. C.Parker 00.00.1983 
#'''Shag Rat 21m E1,5b''' Easy for the grade with the crux low down. Start from a rocky platform on the right of the pinnacle and climb the wall directly behind on good pockets. Mantle out right to land in the upper right amphitheatre, then follow jugs directly up the leaning wall, keeping as near to the left-hand arete as possible. P.Thomas 00.00.1976 
===Upper Right Amphitheatre===
#'''The Last Waltz 12m D''' From the corner of the amphitheatre, traverse left out along the ledge to the front of the pinnacle and finish direct. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Bold Finger 6m VS,5b *''' A superb one move wonder. Take the obvious finger crack through the overhang to exit on the left wall of the amphitheatre. A.Sharp 00.00.1976 
#'''The Sighting 9m VS,4c''' The fist-sized crack just left of the corner, surmounting the overhang on a very loose flake. J.Harwood solo 05.04.1978 
#'''The Gibbon 14m S''' The large corner-crack of the bay, which is better than first appearances suggest. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Sheer Hell 14m E2,5b *''' The obvious wall to the right, with an awkward undercut start and a grassy finish. Technical Friend and small RPs useful for the start, Friend 4 useful for the top. J.Harwood 03.10.1975 
===Central Section===
#'''Sennapod 25m HS,4b''' Follow the runnel leading into the right hand amphitheatre from the base of the crag. Step out right onto a grassy ledge, then climb the arete above. L.Parsons, I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''The Horticulturalist 25m S,4a''' To the right is a short crack, which is followed to a ledge. Douse the whole area liberally with Agent Orange. Proceed up the wall above and head for a tree over on the right. From the tree climb the arete just to the right, taking care with the rock. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''The Herbiculturalist 25m S 􀁺''' Climb the wall just right of the initial crack of the previous route to a ledge and move left over a bulge to surface at a larger ledge. Climb the corner above, finishing either right or left as the mood takes you. The mantle onto the ledge at 5m is currently under a heap of slag. P.Watkin Pre-1973 
===The Big Slab===
#'''Free Wall 25m S''' Climb the wall just right of the obvious flake crack passing a bulge to reach the large ledge (The Prow). Finish up the corner. I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Devils In Hell 25m VD''' The obvious flake crack leading up to The Prow. Finish up Free Wall. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Direct Finish 9m VS,4c *''' From the Prow, make a hard swing up the short right-hand arete. Finish directly up the slab above. I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Western Roll/Free World 27m E1,5b **''' Climb the centre of the buttress between the two flake cracks at the base of the crag. Continue straight up to the big ledge under the roof. It is possible to wimp out left here (HVS,5a). Old BB. From the BB, make a hard move up left into a groove, 2PRs and climb easily through the roof to a hard move round the lip. Finish direct. M.Crocker - Free World 00.00.1975 G.Lewis - Western Roll 00.00.1975 
#'''Arse Trad Mynach 6m E3,6a''' Straight over the roof to the right passing a very old BR and a bendy PR. M.Crocker – A2 Route A2 Pre-1978 FFA G.Ashmore 28.09.1997 
#'''Aaron The Amorous Aardvark 24m S''' Start right of Western Roll and climb the wall to the first ledge. Stomach traverse through Western Roll, to join Devils In Hell. Follow this for 5m until it is possible to move right into a diagonal crack. Follow this to a sloping ledge, then go up and right to gain the ledge below Free World. Wander off right. I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Pushover 20m VS,4b''' To the right are two obvious cracks at 5m. Take the flake crack below and follow the left-hand crack. Gain the finishing ledge via a thinner crack slightly to the left. P.Thomas Pre-1973 
#'''The Pusher 20m HVS,5a''' The right-hand crack is tougher. From the top, step right to finish up the obvious crack. I.Jones Pre-1973 
#'''Alley Crack 18m S,4a *''' Up and to the right of The Pusher is a pair of less prominent cracks. Gain the left-hand crack via the flake crack right of The Pusher and overcome the intervening bulge. M.McMahon Pre-1973 
#'''Alley Oop 18m S,4a *''' The right-hand crack, gained via the short wall below. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Thin Chimney Finish 5m HVS,4c *''' The way gnarly grim reaper on wheels finish from the large ledge, via the thin chimney to the right of the roof of Free World. Not recommended for bloaters. The reversal of this route is quite hard. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''Giggler’s Arete 18m E1,5b''' Climb the arete to the right of Alley Oop, placing some gear and using the crack of Alley Oop just before the top. Very contrived. J.Harwood 05.04.1978 
#'''Rainmaker 30m VD''' Takes the easiest line on this section of rock. Usually done in two pitches. Start at the extreme right-hand edge of the crag below the obvious dirty gully. Swing onto the small ledge and traverse left to the final corner of Pushover. Climb the wall to the left to a large hole and move left to mantleshelf onto the sloping ledge. Belay on the Prow, or continue up the easy corner moving right at the top. Largely superseded by The Higher The Fewer. Unknown Pre-1973 
#'''The Higher The Fewer 35m HVS,4c''' A girdle. Climb Alley Oop to the base of the crack, then traverse off and left into the corner. Continue to a tree, then go up to a large ledge and belay. From the belay climb up to a holly, then cross the wall of Sheer Hell, via the obvious break. Finish up The Gibbon. I.Jones Pre-1973 

There is also a low level traverse of the crag, from the right hand side as far as Y-Fronts at 5b. This can be extended to the end of the crag at 6a, with the crux being to get past Y-Fronts without trailing your feet on the ground or getting your underpants dirty.