SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Darren Fawr

2014-08-23T19:47:26Z

Gordonsta: Comment re quality added.

[[Image:darren fawr 2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|Darren Fawr]] 
[[Contents]] 
[[Inland Limestone]] 

GR022098 to 023096

==BOLTING POLICY==
No bolting.

==PREAMBLE==
A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Extreme care should be taken when removing loose rock, due to the road below.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A470 past the A470/A465 interchange for about 1½ miles. The crag is the clearly visible escarpment up
on the right. Park appropriately and scramble up to the base of the crag.

==DESCENTS==
It is possible to walk off well to the right of the crag.

==THE ROUTES==
#'''Wuthering Heights''' 23m S At the left end of the cliff is a long wall. Follow the central flake crack. Avoid an overlap at 14m by a short traverse left to a grassy ledge, then follow a short rake easily up right to the top. Good thread belays some distance back. 
#'''Avalanche 24m''' E3,5c * In the centre of the crag is a TR at 4m. Pass this and a PR. Continue, passing the left side of an overhang, PR. Continue past another PR to the top and belay well back. 
#'''Landslide''' 24m E4,6a * Start 6m right of ''Avalanche'' below a PR at 3m. Pass this and a TR by a shallow cave. Move up right past a TR over an overlap, TR to a small ledge. Continue up the wall, PR and finish leftwards. Belay well back. 
#'''Darenot''' 20m VD The right-hand of two cracks left of the gully at the right end of the crag. Start 3m right of a ledge, tree belay. Step off a pedestal and climb the crack to a ledge. A short wall and scrambling leads to the top. Block belay far back. The next three routes are on the tower on the right of the gully. There is a thread belay about 6m back 
#'''Rock And Roll''' 18m VD A short wall leads leftward to a shallow groove just left of the front of the tower. Climb the groove to gain ''Thunderguts''. Finish up the wall above. 
#'''Thunderguts''' 20m VS A fine climb. The front of the tower is split by a crack. Climb the crack to a grassy stance, PB. Take the wall directly above the belay, keeping left of some loose blocks. [[Image:darren fawr 1.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Joes triforce and Picky's Sicky Topo]]
#'''Scalar''' 23m VS A steep and exposed climb on the face 3m right of ''Thunderguts''. Start just left of two trees, at a recess. Climb straight up for 10m and move left to a sapling below a steep groove. Climb the groove and pull over some doubtful looking blocks onto a ledge. Finish directly up the headwall. 
#'''Joe's Triforce''' Severe 10m The central face at the very right hand end of the crag, about ten metres left of the last gully before the outcrop becomes too short to climb on. Climb the indistinct groove for 5 metres before stepping right by a tiny sapling. Continue upwards trending left on good jugs to finish. 
#'''Picky's Sicky S''' (Severe)4a 10m (Black Spot) The 'S' is for stupid. The tottering arete immediatley right of the last gully. Loose. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
#G.Stainforth, M.Danford 04.05.1970 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#G.Stainforth, C. Heald 14.03.1970 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#M.Danford, G.Stainforth (alt) 04.05.1970 
#J.Stainforth, G.Stainforth 22.06.1971 
#J. Maddison & A. Pickavance (CUMC) 01/02/08 
#A. Pickavance & J. Maddison (CUMC) 01/02/08

Darren Fawr

2014-08-23T19:39:26Z

Gordonsta: Grade modification. We thought it a little harder than Thunderguts.

[[Image:darren fawr 2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|Darren Fawr]] 
[[Contents]] 
[[Inland Limestone]] 

GR022098 to 023096

==BOLTING POLICY==
No bolting.

==PREAMBLE==
A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Extreme care should be taken when removing loose rock, due to the road below.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A470 past the A470/A465 interchange for about 1½ miles. The crag is the clearly visible escarpment up
on the right. Park appropriately and scramble up to the base of the crag.

==DESCENTS==
It is possible to walk off well to the right of the crag.

==THE ROUTES==
#'''Wuthering Heights''' 23m S At the left end of the cliff is a long wall. Follow the central flake crack. Avoid an overlap at 14m by a short traverse left to a grassy ledge, then follow a short rake easily up right to the top. Good thread belays some distance back. 
#'''Avalanche 24m''' E3,5c * In the centre of the crag is a TR at 4m. Pass this and a PR. Continue, passing the left side of an overhang, PR. Continue past another PR to the top and belay well back. 
#'''Landslide''' 24m E4,6a * Start 6m right of ''Avalanche'' below a PR at 3m. Pass this and a TR by a shallow cave. Move up right past a TR over an overlap, TR to a small ledge. Continue up the wall, PR and finish leftwards. Belay well back. 
#'''Darenot''' 20m VD The right-hand of two cracks left of the gully at the right end of the crag. Start 3m right of a ledge, tree belay. Step off a pedestal and climb the crack to a ledge. A short wall and scrambling leads to the top. Block belay far back. The next three routes are on the tower on the right of the gully. There is a thread belay about 6m back 
#'''Rock And Roll''' 18m VD A short wall leads leftward to a shallow groove just left of the front of the tower. Climb the groove to gain ''Thunderguts''. Finish up the wall above. 
#'''Thunderguts''' 20m VS The front of the tower is split by a crack. Climb the crack to a grassy stance, PB. Take the wall directly above the belay, keeping left of some loose blocks. [[Image:darren fawr 1.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Joes triforce and Picky's Sicky Topo]]
#'''Scalar''' 23m VS A steep and exposed climb on the face 3m right of ''Thunderguts''. Start just left of two trees, at a recess. Climb straight up for 10m and move left to a sapling below a steep groove. Climb the groove and pull over some doubtful looking blocks onto a ledge. Finish directly up the headwall. 
#'''Joe's Triforce''' Severe 10m The central face at the very right hand end of the crag, about ten metres left of the last gully before the outcrop becomes too short to climb on. Climb the indistinct groove for 5 metres before stepping right by a tiny sapling. Continue upwards trending left on good jugs to finish. 
#'''Picky's Sicky S''' (Severe)4a 10m (Black Spot) The 'S' is for stupid. The tottering arete immediatley right of the last gully. Loose. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
#G.Stainforth, M.Danford 04.05.1970 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#G.Stainforth, C. Heald 14.03.1970 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#M.Danford, G.Stainforth (alt) 04.05.1970 
#J.Stainforth, G.Stainforth 22.06.1971 
#J. Maddison & A. Pickavance (CUMC) 01/02/08 
#A. Pickavance & J. Maddison (CUMC) 01/02/08

Darren Fawr

2014-08-23T19:38:02Z

Gordonsta: First ascent details - previously entered as 'unknown'.

[[Image:darren fawr 2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|Darren Fawr]] 
[[Contents]] 
[[Inland Limestone]] 

GR022098 to 023096

==BOLTING POLICY==
No bolting.

==PREAMBLE==
A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Extreme care should be taken when removing loose rock, due to the road below.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A470 past the A470/A465 interchange for about 1½ miles. The crag is the clearly visible escarpment up
on the right. Park appropriately and scramble up to the base of the crag.

==DESCENTS==
It is possible to walk off well to the right of the crag.

==THE ROUTES==
#'''Wuthering Heights''' 23m S At the left end of the cliff is a long wall. Follow the central flake crack. Avoid an overlap at 14m by a short traverse left to a grassy ledge, then follow a short rake easily up right to the top. Good thread belays some distance back. 
#'''Avalanche 24m''' E3,5c * In the centre of the crag is a TR at 4m. Pass this and a PR. Continue, passing the left side of an overhang, PR. Continue past another PR to the top and belay well back. 
#'''Landslide''' 24m E4,6a * Start 6m right of ''Avalanche'' below a PR at 3m. Pass this and a TR by a shallow cave. Move up right past a TR over an overlap, TR to a small ledge. Continue up the wall, PR and finish leftwards. Belay well back. 
#'''Darenot''' 20m VD The right-hand of two cracks left of the gully at the right end of the crag. Start 3m right of a ledge, tree belay. Step off a pedestal and climb the crack to a ledge. A short wall and scrambling leads to the top. Block belay far back. The next three routes are on the tower on the right of the gully. There is a thread belay about 6m back 
#'''Rock And Roll''' 18m VD A short wall leads leftward to a shallow groove just left of the front of the tower. Climb the groove to gain ''Thunderguts''. Finish up the wall above. 
#'''Thunderguts''' 20m VS The front of the tower is split by a crack. Climb the crack to a grassy stance, PB. Take the wall directly above the belay, keeping left of some loose blocks. [[Image:darren fawr 1.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Joes triforce and Picky's Sicky Topo]]
#'''Scalar''' 23m S A steep and exposed climb on the face 3m right of ''Thunderguts''. Start just left of two trees, at a recess. Climb straight up for 10m and move left to a sapling below a steep groove. Climb the groove and pull over some doubtful looking blocks onto a ledge. Finish directly up the headwall. 
#'''Joe's Triforce''' Severe 10m The central face at the very right hand end of the crag, about ten metres left of the last gully before the outcrop becomes too short to climb on. Climb the indistinct groove for 5 metres before stepping right by a tiny sapling. Continue upwards trending left on good jugs to finish. 
#'''Picky's Sicky S''' (Severe)4a 10m (Black Spot) The 'S' is for stupid. The tottering arete immediatley right of the last gully. Loose. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
#G.Stainforth, M.Danford 04.05.1970 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#G.Stainforth, C. Heald 14.03.1970 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#M.Danford, G.Stainforth (alt) 04.05.1970 
#J.Stainforth, G.Stainforth 22.06.1971 
#J. Maddison & A. Pickavance (CUMC) 01/02/08 
#A. Pickavance & J. Maddison (CUMC) 01/02/08

Darren Fawr

2014-08-23T19:29:17Z

Gordonsta: Added first ascent details, previously labelled 'unknown'.

[[Image:darren fawr 2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|Darren Fawr]] 
[[Contents]] 
[[Inland Limestone]] 

GR022098 to 023096

==BOLTING POLICY==
No bolting.

==PREAMBLE==
A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Extreme care should be taken when removing loose rock, due to the road below.

==ACCESS==
Follow the A470 past the A470/A465 interchange for about 1½ miles. The crag is the clearly visible escarpment up
on the right. Park appropriately and scramble up to the base of the crag.

==DESCENTS==
It is possible to walk off well to the right of the crag.

==THE ROUTES==
#'''Wuthering Heights''' 23m S At the left end of the cliff is a long wall. Follow the central flake crack. Avoid an overlap at 14m by a short traverse left to a grassy ledge, then follow a short rake easily up right to the top. Good thread belays some distance back. 
#'''Avalanche 24m''' E3,5c * In the centre of the crag is a TR at 4m. Pass this and a PR. Continue, passing the left side of an overhang, PR. Continue past another PR to the top and belay well back. 
#'''Landslide''' 24m E4,6a * Start 6m right of ''Avalanche'' below a PR at 3m. Pass this and a TR by a shallow cave. Move up right past a TR over an overlap, TR to a small ledge. Continue up the wall, PR and finish leftwards. Belay well back. 
#'''Darenot''' 20m VD The right-hand of two cracks left of the gully at the right end of the crag. Start 3m right of a ledge, tree belay. Step off a pedestal and climb the crack to a ledge. A short wall and scrambling leads to the top. Block belay far back. The next three routes are on the tower on the right of the gully. There is a thread belay about 6m back 
#'''Rock And Roll''' 18m VD A short wall leads leftward to a shallow groove just left of the front of the tower. Climb the groove to gain ''Thunderguts''. Finish up the wall above. 
#'''Thunderguts''' 20m VS The front of the tower is split by a crack. Climb the crack to a grassy stance, PB. Take the wall directly above the belay, keeping left of some loose blocks. [[Image:darren fawr 1.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Joes triforce and Picky's Sicky Topo]]
#'''Scalar''' 23m S A steep and exposed climb on the face 3m right of ''Thunderguts''. Start just left of two trees, at a recess. Climb straight up for 10m and move left to a sapling below a steep groove. Climb the groove and pull over some doubtful looking blocks onto a ledge. Finish directly up the headwall. 
#'''Joe's Triforce''' Severe 10m The central face at the very right hand end of the crag, about ten metres left of the last gully before the outcrop becomes too short to climb on. Climb the indistinct groove for 5 metres before stepping right by a tiny sapling. Continue upwards trending left on good jugs to finish. 
#'''Picky's Sicky S''' (Severe)4a 10m (Black Spot) The 'S' is for stupid. The tottering arete immediatley right of the last gully. Loose. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
#G.Stainforth, Mike Danford 04.05.1970 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 19.09.1988 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#J. Maddison & A. Pickavance (CUMC) 01/02/08 
#A. Pickavance & J. Maddison (CUMC) 01/02/08