https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Gareth+Tucker 2026-05-13T17:21:19Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.26.4 https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=11212 2011-06-17T10:49:04Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> '''[[Contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non-tidal bouldering at [[Pennard]], including a number of problems at [[Graves End East]] at around English 5b-6b finishing at the ''Baboon Traverse''. But the area comes into its own for low level traversing and a couple are listed below.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at [[Graves End]], but continue dropping down instead of turning left towards the base of the main crag.<br /> <br /> {{<br /> #display_points:<br /> <br /> 51.5581665, -4.0653001<br /> ~'''[[Pennard Upper Cliffs|Pennard Upper Cliffs - Bouldering]]'''<br /> ~51.5581665 -4.0653001<br /> ~<br /> <br /> | service=openlayers<br /> | layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing<br /> | zoom=17<br /> }}<br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> 1 '''Stamina traverse''' eng 5c<br /> <br /> Just below [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End Wall]] is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around English 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of straight up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land! It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of [[Gravesend#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End Wall]], or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below'' Kamin''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> 2 '''Power Endurance Traverse''' eng 6b<br /> <br /> A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below ''Kamin''. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun-trap. The traverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route. There are a few good strait ups from sit down starts too, and a harder low level eliminate.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=9775 2011-03-10T09:24:05Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> '''[[Contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non-tidal bouldering at [[Pennard]], including a number of problems at [[Graves End East]] at around English 5b-6b finishing at the ''Baboon Traverse''. But the area comes into its own for low level traversing and a couple are listed below.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at [[Graves End]], but continue dropping down instead of turning left towards the base of the main crag. <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> 1 '''Stamina traverse''' eng 5c<br /> <br /> Just below [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End Wall]] is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around English 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of straight up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land! It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of [[Gravesend#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End Wall]], or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below'' Kamin''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> 2 '''Power Endurance Traverse''' eng 6b<br /> <br /> A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below ''Kamin''. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun-trap. The traverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route. A few good strait ups from sit down starts too.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=9774 2011-03-10T09:16:25Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> '''[[Contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non-tidal bouldering at [[Pennard]], including a number of problems at [[Graves End East]] at around English 5b-6b finishing at the ''Baboon Traverse''. But the area comes into its own for low level traversing and a couple are listed below.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at [[Graves End]], but continue dropping down instead of turning left towards the base of the main crag. <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> 1 '''Stamina traverse''' eng 5c<br /> <br /> Just below [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End Wall]] is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around English 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of straight up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land! It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of [[Gravesend#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End Wall]], or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below'' Kamin''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> 2 '''Power Endurance Traverse''' eng 6b<br /> <br /> A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below ''Kamin''. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun-trap traverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route. Lots of good strait ups from sit down starts too.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=9773 2011-03-10T09:16:03Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> '''[[Contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non-tidal bouldering at [[Pennard]], including a number of problems at [[Graves End East]] at around English 5b-6b finishing at the ''Baboon Traverse''. But the area comes into its own for low level traversing and a couple are listed below.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at [[Graves End]], but continue dropping down instead of turning left to the base of the main crag. <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> 1 '''Stamina traverse''' eng 5c<br /> <br /> Just below [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End Wall]] is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around English 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of straight up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land! It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of [[Gravesend#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End Wall]], or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below'' Kamin''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> 2 '''Power Endurance Traverse''' eng 6b<br /> <br /> A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below ''Kamin''. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun-trap traverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route. Lots of good strait ups from sit down starts too.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Equal_Opportunities_Wall&diff=9772 2011-03-10T09:15:18Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>An outdoor moonboard. Some of the best hard bouldering on Gower.<br /> <br /> Tricky to find. Easiest way first visit is to take the path downhill immediately to the east of [[White_Edge|White Edge]] and cross over at the ledge half way down. Follow the vague path running diagonally west and down the grass &amp; rocks to a rock platform just above high tide level. Follow this west for 100m or so and there is a small grassy area and a painted cave. The bouldering is on your right.<br /> <br /> Topo to follow.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Winter&diff=9736 2011-02-21T16:09:45Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Best For..]]<br /> <br /> Seepage free / quick drying crags.<br /> <br /> <br /> == South East Wales Sandstone ==<br /> <br /> [[Coed Ely]]<br /> <br /> [[Penallta]]<br /> <br /> [[Navigation]] after a dry spell.<br /> <br /> [[Trebanog]]<br /> <br /> [[Trehafod]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Inland Limestone &amp; Bridgend Area ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Box Bay]]<br /> <br /> [[Ogmore]]<br /> <br /> [[Pant Quarry]]<br /> <br /> == Gower ==<br /> <br /> [[Trial Wall]] - west facing, great for winter afternoons<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor]]<br /> <br /> [[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborahs Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]<br /> <br /> [[Foxhole]] - a suntrap, but can seep after lots of rain</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Winter&diff=9735 2011-02-21T16:09:07Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Best For..]]<br /> <br /> Seepage free / quick drying crags.<br /> <br /> <br /> == South East Wales Sandstone ==<br /> <br /> [[Coed Ely]]<br /> <br /> [[Penallta]]<br /> <br /> [[Navigation]] after a dry spell.<br /> <br /> [[Trebanog]]<br /> <br /> [[Trehafod]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Inland Limestone &amp; Bridgend Area ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Box Bay]]<br /> <br /> [[Ogmore]]<br /> <br /> [[Pant Quarry]]<br /> <br /> == Gower ==<br /> <br /> [[Trial Wall]] - west facing, great for winter afternoons<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor]]<br /> <br /> [[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborahs Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Winter&diff=9734 2011-02-21T16:08:46Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Best For..]]<br /> <br /> Seepage free / quick drying crags.<br /> <br /> <br /> == South East Wales Sandstone ==<br /> <br /> [[Coed Ely]]<br /> <br /> [[Penallta]]<br /> <br /> [[Navigation]] after a dry spell.<br /> <br /> [[Trebanog]]<br /> <br /> [[Trehafod]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Inland Limestone &amp; Bridgend Area ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Box Bay]]<br /> <br /> [[Ogmore]]<br /> <br /> [[Pant Quarry]]<br /> <br /> == Gower ==<br /> <br /> [[trial wall]] - west facing, great for winter afternoons<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor]]<br /> <br /> [[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborahs Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Wet_Weather&diff=9733 2011-02-21T16:08:00Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Best For..]]<br /> <br /> If it's been wet try these fast drying or steep crags.<br /> <br /> == South East Wales Sandstone ==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[The Darren]]''' - The Terminal Overhanging Wall has some fine routes which stay dry in the rain.<br /> <br /> '''[[Sirhowy]]''' - If it's not dry here then nowhere will be locally.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Inland Limestone and Bridgend Area ==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[Ogmore]]''' - Pick your spots.<br /> <br /> '''[[Nash Point]]''' - A pretty good bet.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Gower ==<br /> <br /> '''[[Trial Wall]]''' - dries v quick, esp once the suns on it in the afternoon<br /> <br /> '''[[Rams Tor]]''' - Quick to seep but dries off just as fast in the afternoon sun.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Fr._7b&diff=9732 2011-02-21T16:06:50Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Best For..]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[South East Wales Sandstone]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> Encore magnifique - [[The Gap]]<br /> <br /> King ada - [[Sirhowy]]<br /> <br /> Skanderbeg - [[Sirhowy]]<br /> <br /> Sharpy Unlpugged - [[The Darren]]<br /> <br /> Capstan - [[The Darren]]<br /> <br /> The Caerphilly Contract - [[Llanbradach]]<br /> <br /> Propaganda - [[Cwmaman]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[Inland Limestone]] &amp; [[Bridgend Area]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> Rose Line - [[Dinas Rock]], [[Lower Cave Area]]<br /> <br /> Rat on a Hot Tin Roof - [[Dinas Rock]], [[Lower Cave Area]]<br /> <br /> Harlem - [[Dinas Main Crag]]<br /> <br /> The Sharp Cereal Professor - [[Dinas Main Crag]]<br /> <br /> Staple Diet - [[Witches Point]]<br /> <br /> This God is Mine - [[Witches Point]]<br /> <br /> GLC - [[Taffs Well West]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> Skull Attack - [[Trial Wall]]<br /> <br /> Bitchin' - [[Oxwich]]<br /> <br /> Pegasus - [[Pantheon]]<br /> <br /> Jezebel - [[Pwll Du]]<br /> <br /> Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove - [[Foxhole Cove]]<br /> <br /> Power struggle - [[Foxhole Cove]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Deborahs_Bouldering&diff=9673 2011-02-16T15:32:20Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering directly under [[deborahs overhang]] itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=File:Deborahs_Bouldering.jpeg&diff=9672 2011-02-16T15:31:11Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Deborahs_Bouldering&diff=9671 2011-02-16T15:30:10Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering directly under [[deborahs overhang]] itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs<br /> <br /> [[file: Deborahs Bouldering.jpeg]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Deborahs_Bouldering&diff=9670 2011-02-16T15:28:19Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering directly under [[deborahs overhang]] itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs<br /> <br /> [[file: Deborahs Bouldering]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Deborahs_Bouldering&diff=9669 2011-02-16T15:27:57Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering directly under [[deborahs overhang]] itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs<br /> <br /> file: Deborahs Bouldering</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Deborahs_Bouldering&diff=9667 2011-02-16T15:23:53Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: Created page with &quot;There is some bouldering directly under deborahs overhang itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering directly under [[deborahs overhang]] itself. The start of the routes make nice highballs, there is a fun traverse and a few other bits and bobs</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Gower&diff=9666 2011-02-16T15:23:09Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Limeslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Mushrooms]]<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> [[Sewerpipe]]<br /> <br /> [[Rotherslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Caswell_Bay_(Bouldering)|Caswell]]<br /> <br /> [[Pwll Du East]]<br /> <br /> [[Pennard Upper Cliffs]]<br /> <br /> [[Penard Shoreline]]<br /> <br /> [[Foxhole/Watchhouse ]]<br /> <br /> [[Equal Opportunities Wall]]<br /> <br /> [[Russian Zawn]]<br /> <br /> [[Deborahs Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> [[Fall Bay]]<br /> <br /> A Lot of this is work in progress but we need your action shots and problems! Use the discussion page or the gower bouldering facebook group to get in touch</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=9664 2011-02-16T15:22:16Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non tidal bouldering at pennard, including a number of problems at graves end east at around english 5b-6b finishing at the baboon traverse. But the area comes into its own for traversing and a couple are listed below <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at graves end, but continue dropping down instead of turning left to the base of the main crag.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> #'''stamina traverse – eng 5c'''<br /> Just below graves end wall is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around english 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of strait up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land!It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of graves end wall, or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below Kamin. <br /> <br /> #'''power endurance traverse – eng 6b'''<br /> A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below Kamin. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun traptraverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route.lots of good strait ups from sit down starts too.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Pennard_Upper_Cliffs&diff=9663 2011-02-16T15:21:56Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: added pennard upper cliffs bouldering</p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> There is plenty of non tidal bouldering at pennard, including a number of problems at graves end east at around english 5b-6b finishing at the baboon traverse. But the area comes into its own for traversing and a couple are listed below <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Approach as for the routes at graves end, but continue dropping down instead of turning left to the base of the main crag.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> #'''stamina traverse – eng 5c'''Just below graves end wall is a wall around 4m high which can be traversed for nearly 100m at around english 5c though the best bit for laps is the steeper section near the eastern end. Lots of strait up potential at the same sort of difficulty but careful how you land!It can be accessed from the west by dropping down before the bottom of graves end wall, or the east by scrambling down a short gully just below Kamin. <br /> #'''power endurance traverse – eng 6b'''A great boulder problem located directly below the lower main path where is passes a small flat topped boulder. Best access is to drop down on a smaller path around 30m east of the small boulder, more or less directly below Kamin. Nice landing, minimal seepage, sheltered and a sun traptraverse starts on flatties on east side of the 'crag' and goes right to left roughly following the break. Probably about V5 or eqiv to a 7b+ sports route.lots of good strait ups from sit down starts too.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Gower&diff=9661 2011-02-16T15:21:02Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Limeslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Mushrooms]]<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> [[Sewerpipe]]<br /> <br /> [[Rotherslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Caswell_Bay_(Bouldering)|Caswell]]<br /> <br /> [[Pwll Du East]]<br /> <br /> [[Pennard Upper Cliffs]]<br /> <br /> [[Penard Shoreline]]<br /> <br /> [[Foxhole/Watchhouse ]]<br /> <br /> [[Equal Opportunities Wall]]<br /> <br /> [[Russian Zawn]]<br /> <br /> [[Deborahs Overhang]]<br /> <br /> [[Fall Bay]]<br /> <br /> A Lot of this is work in progress but we need your action shots and problems! Use the discussion page or the gower bouldering facebook group to get in touch</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Amroth&diff=9660 2011-02-16T15:20:04Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: added amroth bouldering</p> <hr /> <div>There is some bouldering by the beach just to the west of the main cliff at amroth (telpyn).</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Herberts_Quarry_(Black_Mountains)&diff=9659 2011-02-16T15:19:08Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> GR SN 733187 <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> A great venue for short summer evenings or a quick stop off on the way past. About half an hour from Dynamic Rock climbing wall. There are a handful of routes in the upper quarry listed in the routes wiki, this section covers the lower quarries near the car park. <br /> <br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Park at the carpark on the east of the road at the highest point of the A4069 between Brynamman and Llangadog. There is loads of potential and places to explore but the best bit is around two mins walk NNWish of the car park, the bottom of the crag is half hidden behind a little mound.<br /> <br /> The forthcoming topo will make it easier to spot, but a quick walk round the area will swiftly identify this as the best little area for bouldering. In case youre in any doubt its just south of a big flat area. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Apart from the warm up problem on the left, all problems are about eng 5c to 6b with plenty of scope for eliminates and a nice traverse along the bottom. Lots of easier problems a little further left next to the flat area including a photogenic arete.For the lower left hand end of the crag top out. For the higher right hand end of the crag either jump off at a safe convenient place, finish up the routes below or traverse out to the edge of the crag. <br /> going left to right<br /> <br /> #'''Summer Madness - E2 6a'''&lt;br&gt; start from a thin crack before a tricky move left takes you to jugs and easier climbing. 8m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Sophism – E1 5c'''&lt;br&gt;Follow the finger crack to the top. Can be lead on gear. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===First Ascents===<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> #G.Tucker 00.07.2007<br /> <br /> #G.Tucker, T.Panthaman 00.09.2006<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Herberts_Quarry_(Black_Mountains)&diff=9658 2011-02-16T15:18:46Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> GR SN 733187 <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> A great venue for short summer evenings or a quick stop off on the way past. About half an hour from Dynamic Rock climbing wall. There are a handful of routes in the upper quarry listed in the routes wiki, this section covers the lower quarries near the car park. <br /> <br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Park at the carpark on the east of the road at the highest point of the A4069 between Brynamman and Llangadog. There is loads of potential and places to explore but the best bit is around two mins walk NNWish of the car park, the bottom of the crag is half hidden behind a little mound.<br /> <br /> The forthcoming topo will make it easier to spot, but a quick walk round the area will swiftly identify this as the best little area for bouldering. In case youre in any doubt its just south of a big flat area. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Apart from the warm up problem on the left, all problems are about eng 5c to 6b with plenty of scope for eliminates and a nice traverse along the bottom. Lots of easier problems a little further left next to the flat area including a photogenic arete.For the lower left hand end of the crag top out. For the higher right hand end of the crag either jump off at a safe convenient place, finish up the routes below or traverse out to the edge of the crag. <br /> going left to right<br /> <br /> #'''Summer Madness - E2 6a'''&lt;br&gt; start from a thin crack before a tricky move left takes you to jugs and easier climbing. 8m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Sophism – E1 5c'''&lt;br&gt;Follow the finger crack to the top. Can be lead on gear. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===First Ascents===<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> #G.Tucker 00.07.2007<br /> <br /> &lt;font size=&quot;2&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> #G.Tucker, T.Panthaman 00.09.2006<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Herberts_Quarry_(Black_Mountains)&diff=9657 2011-02-16T15:17:54Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> GR SN 733187 <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> A great venue for short summer evenings or a quick stop off on the way past. About half an hour from Dynamic Rock climbing wall. There are a handful of routes in the upper quarry listed in the routes wiki, this section covers the lower quarries near the car park. <br /> <br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Park at the carpark on the east of the road at the highest point of the A4069 between Brynamman and Llangadog. There is loads of potential and places to explore but the best bit is around two mins walk NNWish of the car park, the bottom of the crag is half hidden behind a little mound.<br /> <br /> The forthcoming topo will make it easier to spot, but a quick walk round the area will swiftly identify this as the best little area for bouldering. In case youre in any doubt its just south of a big flat area. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Apart from the warm up problem on the left, all problems are about eng 5c to 6b with plenty of scope for eliminates and a nice traverse along the bottom. Lots of easier problems a little further left next to the flat area including a photogenic arete.For the lower left hand end of the crag top out. For the higher right hand end of the crag either jump off at a safe convenient place, finish up the routes below or traverse out to the edge of the crag. <br /> going left to right<br /> <br /> #'''Summer Madness - E2 6a'''&lt;br&gt; start from a thin crack before a tricky move left takes you to jugs and easier climbing. 8m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Sophism – E1 5c'''&lt;br&gt;Follow the finger crack to the top. Can be lead on gear. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===First Ascents===<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> #G.Tucker 00.07.2007<br /> <br /> #G.Tucker, T.Panthaman 00.09.2006<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Herberts_Quarry_(Black_Mountains)&diff=9656 2011-02-16T15:17:28Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: herberts quarry lower crag</p> <hr /> <div> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[bouldering]]<br /> <br /> GR SN 733187 <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> A great venue for short summer evenings or a quick stop off on the way past. About half an hour from Dynamic Rock climbing wall. There are a handful of routes in the upper quarry listed in the routes wiki, this section covers the lower quarries near the car park. <br /> <br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Park at the carpark on the east of the road at the highest point of the A4069 between Brynamman and Llangadog. There is loads of potential and places to explore but the best bit is around two mins walk NNWish of the car park, the bottom of the crag is half hidden behind a little mound.<br /> <br /> The forthcoming topo will make it easier to spot, but a quick walk round the area will swiftly identify this as the best little area for bouldering. In case youre in any doubt its just south of a big flat area. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Apart from the warm up problem on the left, all problems are about eng 5c to 6b with plenty of scope for eliminates and a nice traverse along the bottom. Lots of easier problems a little further left next to the flat area including a photogenic arete.For the lower left hand end of the crag top out. For the higher right hand end of the crag either jump off at a safe convenient place, finish up the routes below or traverse out to the edge of the crag. <br /> going left to right#'''Summer Madness - E2 6a'''&lt;br&gt; start from a thin crack before a tricky move left takes you to jugs and easier climbing. 8m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Sophism – E1 5c'''&lt;br&gt;Follow the finger crack to the top. Can be lead on gear. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===First Ascents===<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> #G.Tucker 00.07.2007<br /> <br /> #G.Tucker, T.Panthaman 00.09.2006<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Carmarthenshire&diff=9655 2011-02-16T13:48:08Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> [[Herberts Quarry (Black Mountains)]]<br /> <br /> [[Amroth]]</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Carmarthenshire&diff=9654 2011-02-16T13:47:41Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> <br /> Herberts Quarry (Black Mountains)</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Equal_Opportunities_Wall&diff=9651 2011-02-15T16:28:47Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/EqualOpportunities<br /> <br /> An outdoor moonboard. Some of the best hard bouldering on Gower.<br /> <br /> Tricky to find. Easiest way first visit is to take the path downhill immediately to the east of [[white edge]] and cross over at the ledge half way down. Follow the vague path running diagonally west and down the grass &amp; rocks to a rock platform just above high tide level. Follow this for 100m or so and there is a small grassy area and a painted cave. The bouldering is on your right.<br /> <br /> Topo to follow.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Equal_Opportunities_Wall&diff=9649 2011-02-15T16:26:07Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: eq opps summary</p> <hr /> <div>http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/EqualOpportunities<br /> <br /> An outdoor moonboard. Some of the best hard bouldering on Gower.<br /> <br /> Tricky to find. Easiest way first visit is to take the path downhill immediately to the east of [[white edge]] and cross over at the ledge half way down. Follow the vague path running diagonally west and down the grass to a rock platform above high tide level. Follow this for 100m or so and there is a small grassy area and a painted cave. The bouldering is on your right.<br /> <br /> Topo to follow.</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Equal_Opportunities_Wall&diff=9648 2011-02-15T16:15:52Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: added eq opps wall link</p> <hr /> <div>http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/EqualOpportunities</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Gower&diff=9646 2011-02-15T14:36:06Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: add eq op wall to wiki</p> <hr /> <div>'''[[contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Limeslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Mushrooms]]<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> [[Sewerpipe]]<br /> <br /> [[Rotherslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Caswell_Bay_(Bouldering)|Caswell]]<br /> <br /> [[Pwll Du East]]<br /> <br /> [[Penard Shoreline]]<br /> <br /> [[Foxhole/Watchhouse ]]<br /> <br /> [[Equal Opportunities Wall]]<br /> <br /> [[Russian Zawn]]<br /> <br /> [[Fall Bay]]<br /> <br /> A Lot of this is work in progress but we need your action shots and problems! Use the discussion page or the gower bouldering facebook group to get in touch</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Bouldering_in_Gower&diff=9645 2011-02-15T14:32:04Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[contents]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Bouldering]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Limeslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Mushrooms]]<br /> <br /> [[Rams Tor Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> [[Sewerpipe]]<br /> <br /> [[Rotherslade]]<br /> <br /> [[Caswell_Bay_(Bouldering)|Caswell]]<br /> <br /> [[Pwll Du East]]<br /> <br /> [[Penard Shoreline]]<br /> <br /> [[Foxhole/Watchhouse ]]<br /> <br /> [[Russian Zawn]]<br /> <br /> [[Fall Bay]]<br /> <br /> A Lot of this is work in progress but we need your action shots and problems! Use the discussion page or the gower bouldering facebook group to get in touch</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9643 2011-02-15T14:02:41Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from Red Leicester to Sweet September inclusive are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;small&gt;27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB. G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> &lt;/small&gt;<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9642 2011-02-15T14:01:51Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can (probably) be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;small&gt;27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB. G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> &lt;/small&gt;<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9641 2011-02-15T14:00:09Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: /* Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) */</p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can (probably) be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;small&gt;27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> &lt;/small&gt;<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9640 2011-02-15T13:59:09Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can (probably) be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> <br /> 27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> <br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> <br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> <br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> <br /> <br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> <br /> <br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> <br /> <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> <br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB.<br /> <br /> <br /> G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> <br /> <br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9639 2011-02-15T13:58:39Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can (probably) be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> ''27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> <br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> <br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> <br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> <br /> <br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> <br /> <br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> <br /> <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> <br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB.<br /> <br /> <br /> G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> <br /> <br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9638 2011-02-15T13:57:45Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: adding in detail about rockfall</p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> Note that following a landslide in December 2009 the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone. For those still wanting a tick the crux of Big Cheese can (probably) be climbed as a traverse on the northernmost boulder on the beach. The routes are recorded below for historic purposes only. The remaining rock looks impressive but could do with some more weathering and cleaning before yielding any new routes. <br /> <br /> ''27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> <br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> <br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> <br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> <br /> <br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> <br /> <br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> <br /> <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> <br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB.<br /> <br /> <br /> G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> <br /> <br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The routes now start again, and can still be reached by crossing the mordor-like landscape where the crag used to be. <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Oxwich&diff=9637 2011-02-15T13:53:19Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: fallen down route in italics</p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Kissin' the Pink.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Nik Goile, Kissin' The Pink. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''** NEWS ** - Big land slip at Oxwich''' see [[Landslip_/_Rockfall_at_Oxwich_Quarry,_Gower|Landslip/Rockfall at Oxwich Quarry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> OXWICH<br /> GR 506859 to 513850<br /> By Goi Ashmore &amp; Adrian Berry<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry: The only tidal routes are those to the right of Kissing The Pink in the quarry (4 hours either side of low water), although routes as far as Written In Red may be inaccessible during extremely high seas. The boulder-hopping approach to the Quarry can be awkward at high tide and is not recommended on initial visits. The easy walk in along the beach is possible 2 ½ hours either side of low water. The rest of the area is non-tidal.<br /> <br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY: ==<br /> <br /> <br /> At Oxwich quarry retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. No bolting at Oxwich Point.<br /> <br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Quarry is the major sports climbing area of Gower, containing a large selection of fully equipped routes of most grades, especially E2-E5, but also including the hardest route in the guidebook. The red wall overlooking the sea is the best of the areas, with steep routes on good (some of them a little too good) holds. However, this wall does seep. Oxwich In The Woods dries much quicker and is very sheltered, but can be greasy and full of midges in hot weather. The routes of For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips, Red With Rage and Kissing The Pink are compulsory classics.<br /> <br /> By contrast, for an out of the way, beautiful place, [[Oxwich Point]] has few rivals. The rock here is weathered , cemented limestone - making for some interesting and unlikely holds. The range of grades means there is something here for everyone. Protection is generally good if you are creative.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> <br /> Follow the A4118 past Nicholaston to an obvious left turn signposted to the Oxwich Bay Hotel by the folly. Follow the minor road down to the Oxwich Bay complex and park on the beach (a pay booth is normally open). If the tide is out, it is easy to walk along the west flank of the beach for 300m until the obvious red wall at the start of the quarry (not visible from the parking area) comes into view (GR506859). If the tide is up, walk over to the Oxwich Bay Hotel and follow the small road south to a chapel. It is possible to scramble down and hop over boulders to reach the start of the main crag. However, be warned that the rock is very greasy and accidents are common. Also the descent down at the end may mean swimming at high tide. For Oxwich Point, follow the road to the chapel and take the footpaths through the woods and to the headland after about 25 minutes (GR513850). <br /> <br /> Oxwich Point can also be reached from Oxwich Green, going down the lane alongside the caravan site and following a ramp towards the crag. Limited parking is available.<br /> <br /> <br /> == DESCENTS: ==<br /> For Oxwich Point, walk off in either direction. The sports routes at Oxwich Quarry all have lower offs. Only one of the traditional routes in the quarry has no lower off, but it is possible to reach one with a little cunning.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Oxwich Bay Quarry (Crag Ox) ==<br /> <br /> The routes are described from right to left (i.e. as approached).<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Steel Yourself 13m E2,5c Fr6a+ *<br /> <br /> At the right side of the red wall is an undercut wall, with a vague arete bounding its right side. Crank up onto the wall from the right and climb up keeping left of the arete, to a finishing groove. A direct start is possible at Fr6c+. R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Settin’ Stone 13m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> A hard move over the roof left of Steel Yourself, leads to a shallow groove. At the roof, pull left to a flake, then swing out onto the wall above the roof. A strange hold leads to the belay. G.Gibson 25.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 3.Glue Year 15m E4,6a Fr7a??? **<br /> <br /> Start left of Settin’ Stone beneath a large block at 2m. Pull round this and climb the groove to reach a hard finish. The large block has now fallen down and the start is much harder R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. Inspector Glueseau 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ *<br /> <br /> A good route to the left of Glue Year, following the groove in the angle of the wall. Start just left of Glue Year and climb up to a ledge. Follow a right-trending ramp, then pull out left to the BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. Foaming At The Gussett 15m E4,6b Fr7a+<br /> <br /> The wall left of Inspector Glueseau. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. Pissin’ The Sink 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The short wall between Foaming At The Gussett and Kissin’ The Pink has a desperate sloping finish. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. Kissin’ The Pink 20m E3,6a Fr6c ***<br /> <br /> A superb route up the flowstone forming the right arete of the prominent groove left of Pissin’ The Sink. E.Jones, G.Gibson, R.Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. Missin’ The Drink 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ <br /> <br /> Rubbish. A short wall left of Kissin’ The Pink leads to a ledge, then a long move up on filthy rock gains the groove and lower off of Kissin’ The Pink. G.Gibson 02.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent prow high up on the crag. Left of this, above a rock step at the base of the crag are two routes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. The Morgue The Merrier 25m E6,6c Fr7c **<br /> <br /> This is the right-hand line, which sports two difficult moves. G.Gibson 02.07.1997<br /> [[Image:Bitchin Oxwich.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on Bitchin'. Photo by Oli Buxton]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Bitchin’ 25m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of The Morgue The Merrier, has a desperate finale. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two bolted projects to the left. The left hand one is open.<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. Red Snapper 20m E6,6b Fr7b+ **<br /> <br /> About 10m left of the prow of Bitchin’ is an undercut section of the wall (three lines of bolts to the left). Climb this with a powerful move low down. Low in the grade. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left has a solitary bolt but no route yet.. To the left a path leads up into the woods.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. Written In Red 20m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> The wall immediately above the start of the path, with a very tricky move at half-height. From a large hold move up and right onto a huge flake and a very blind finish. G.Gibson 06.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. Red Letter Day 20m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> As for Written In Red to the hard move, but instead of moving slightly right, continue straight up the arete above. G.Gibson 19.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. Red With Rage 22m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***<br /> <br /> Superb. Start just above the step in the path at the left-hand side of the tidal platform. Amble up to a BR, then climb the fingery wall on good flakes to a horizontal slot out on the left. Make a long rockover to a big sloper well up and right. Pull up more easily, and finish up the left-trending groove. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. Mars Attacks 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The wall left of Red With Rage. Instead of mantling directly up to the belay, climb the little arete on the left and move back right to finish. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. The Milkier Way 15m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> The vague scoop to the left of Mars Attacks, with some fingery climbing and a monstrous lurch at half-height. G.Gibson 26.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. Red River Rock 15m E5,6b Fr7b **<br /> <br /> The superb red wall to the left of The Milkier Way, moving left at the fourth BR to gain a flake and the belay of Two Of A Perfect Pair. G.Gibson 16.08.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. Two Of A Perfect Pair 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> Left of Red River Rock is a prominent left facing shallow groove with a rather obvious stuck-back-on hold. Gain this with interest! Move easily up the groove, until a hard undercut and stretch right gains jugs and a BB. E.Travers-Jones 29.07.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. Resin D’Etre 12m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> To the left of Two Of A Perfect Pair is an obvious circular hole at 3m. Climb up to this, and over the overlap to gain and finish up a groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. Beyond All Resin 12m E3,6a *<br /> <br /> A route with a hard start, which eases thereafter. Start at a couple of pockets under an arete and pull up and onto the arete. BR. Finish up the jam crack. Medium Friends useful. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. Little Cracker 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Follow the obvious banana-shaped crack to the same lower off as Beyond All Resin. Friends and threads useful. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. Sika This 12m E3,6b Fr7a<br /> <br /> A route with a very frustrating start. Gain the good ledge at 2m left of Little Cracker, at a faint arete. Slap up a long, long way for thin edges, pull up and finish up the still tricky groove. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. Sniff That 10m E3,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> A good route up the groove to the left of I’m Sika This. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The thin wall to the right is an open project. Send the cheque to Roy Thomas.<br /> <br /> <br /> 24. Red October 11m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The wall to the left again. R.Thomas 00.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 25. Blight In August 8m E3,5c<br /> <br /> The crack to the left of Red October is usually cheesy, TR. R.Thomas 00.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> The next 50m is covered in ivy and the trees are too close to the crag to allow routes. The next routes start well along the path at a ‘tump’ marking the right end of the first proper bay in the woods. It contains a very obvious layback flake (Extra Ordinary LIttle Cough).<br /> <br /> <br /> 26. Tump Jumper 8m E3,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> Not quite the one move wonder it looks. Jump from the tump onto the wall and climb the wall above. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ''27. Sweet September 8m E4,6a Fr7a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The red wall right of the prominent layback flake in the bay. The start is a teaser. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike 10m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The well defined overhanging layback flake. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 29. Ambrosia Mountain 12m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> <br /> Fundamentally unpleasant. The corner groove left of Extra Ordinary Little Cough is climbed on vicious lay offs to a hard move onto a ledge. Fight up the corner to the last BR before the BB, realise that the chain is completely out of reach and fall off. G.Gibson 29.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 30. Sansarete 12m E7,6c 8a *<br /> <br /> <br /> The arete bounding the left side of the bay. Its left-hand side has an awkward start and some technical moves through an overlap. Continue with difficulty to catch the shallow depression up and slightly right of the double bolts before clipping the BB to finish. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 31. Plum Duff 12m E5,6b Fr7b *<br /> <br /> <br /> About 20m left of Sansarete is another square-cut arete. Start on the left, but immediately swing round to climb its right side. G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> To the right of the arete of Plum Duff is a leaning red wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 32. Inferno 20m E7,6c Fr8a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> The centre of the wall has a hard boulder problem at the top. A.Berry 31.05.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns through a right angle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 33. Epoxy Clips Now 25m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> <br /> A mediocre route up the angle of the bay. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 34. Root Grabbing 25m E4,5b<br /> <br /> <br /> The cracks to the left of Expoxy Clips Now. A.Berry, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 35. For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 25m E3,6a Fr6c+ ***<br /> <br /> <br /> A classic. Start up the arete above the rock step. Climb this with difficulty, until it is possible to ‘throw one and hold it’. Pull onto the slab and amble up to the top wall, which is climbed on good holds to a BB. Well protected. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.05.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The quarry now drops down at a prominent rock step.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 36. The Route Of All Evil 25m E8,7a Fr8b+ * <br /> <br /> <br /> The hardest route in the guidebook. The undercut groove in the centre of the wall running left from the rock step. A.Berry 10.07.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The hanging face to the left of The Route Of All Evil is currently a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 37. Big Cheese 20m E5,6a Fr7a **<br /> <br /> <br /> To the left is a prominent flake high up. Gain this by some tricky moves, then follow the strenuous flake crack more easily to a final superb move up to the belay from a handjam. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 38. Whey It Up 20m E6,6c Fr7c<br /> <br /> <br /> A lot harder than it looks with a typically desperate Oxwich belay clip. Start in a faint groove in the wall to the left of Big Cheese. Climb the groove easily to what looks like a huge hold, which actually slopes at 40 degrees. Flail desperately about, until able to put the clip into the BB.<br /> <br /> <br /> G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 39. Say Cheese Please 20m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> <br /> A good route, with a hard one move crux. Just left of Whey It Up is an arete bounding a big red groove. Climb the arete direct. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.08.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 40. Red Leicester 20m E2,5b Fr6a<br /> <br /> <br /> The big red groove. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21.04.1995<br /> <br /> ''<br /> <br /> <br /> The big arete and the flake to the left are currently projects.<br /> <br /> <br /> 41. Resination 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The groove/wall just right of the big angled corner of Resin Hate. Better than it looks. G.Gibson 20.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 42. Resin Hate 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The big angled corner. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 43. The Oxwich Blobby 15m E6,6b Fr7b+<br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Resin Hate is often greasy. G.Gibson 19.07.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 44. The Oxwich Bobby 15m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> The cheesy wall left of The Oxwich Blobby and right of a pillar formed by jam cracks. G.Gibson 09.10.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 45. No Resin, Why? 15m Fr 6b+<br /> <br /> An interesting route. Grapple up the pillar, which is hard, to an easier jam crack that is also hard. BB. R. Thomas 09.10.1994<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag now turns another corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 46. Picking Berries 12m E4,6a Fr7a<br /> <br /> Climb the cheesy groove just round the corner. R. Thomas, G.Gibson 01.07.1995<br /> <br /> <br /> 47. Figura 12m E5,6b Fr7b<br /> <br /> The arete left of Picking Berries. G.Gibson 00.00.1999<br /> <br /> <br /> 48. Stoned Dates 12m E4,6a Fr6c+ <br /> <br /> Left of the left arete of Picking Berries is a shelf at 2m. Awkwardly gain this, and climb the tufa pockets above. R.Thomas 16.08.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> The next routes are on the shorter buttress to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 49. Squeezing The Pips 6m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The traditional crack left of the platform. BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 50. Treading The Grapes 6m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> <br /> A good technical problem up the wall to the left of Squeezing The Pips. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 51. Pipsqueak 6m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> <br /> Left of Treading The Grapes is a vague crack and ramp leading to undercuts and a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> 52. Teasing The Zits 6m E2,6a Fr6c<br /> <br /> The slabby wall to a finishing crack left of Pipsqueak. R.Thomas 00.00.1998<br /> <br /> <br /> A little further on is the last buttress of any significance, The Secret Oxwich.<br /> <br /> <br /> 53. Jury’s Out 10m E4,6b Fr7a *<br /> <br /> The first feature on the buttress is a thin crack. Climb this, then make a tricky sequence into a groove out left. Hard moves on undercuts lead to a BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> 54. Before The Beak 10m E5,6b Fr7a+ *<br /> <br /> The sharp arete in the centre of the buttress. R.Thomas 00.00.1997<br /> <br /> <br /> 55. Swift Justice 8m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The traditionally protected groove to the left of Before The Beak, BB. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 56. Open Verdict 10m E2,6a Fr6b<br /> <br /> The square cut groove/arete to the left of Swift Justice. R.Thomas 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> 57. The Last Arete 6m E2,6b Fr6c<br /> <br /> The short arete on the left side of the buttress, with a huge jump, BR. At the top swing to the BB of Open Verdict. A.Berry 00.00.1996<br /> <br /> <br /> The wall to the left of Jury’s Out, with a prominent boss of rock is a project.<br /> <br /> <br /> Oxwich Bay Quarry South<br /> <br /> Oxwich South is another quarried area about 5 minutes walk south from the end of the main crag. The easiest approach is to walk in along the beach past the main walls, then continue along the beach for another 5 minutes passing a tower on the right, to reach a quarried spur which blocks the way. Walk up under the spur into the woods to reach the quarried wall in a few minutes. The way back out, is to walk rounfd the right hand side of the crag to reach an obvious path, which leads up right to come back out at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. This path can be used to access the crag at high tides for future visits. The crag itself is sheltered and of good quality quarried limestone. The main wall is about 100m wide and about halfway along is a cave at the base of the crag, with a project coming out of it. The first route is located on a short tower separated from the main crag by a gully.<br /> <br /> 58. Load Of Bullocks 7m E1,5c Fr6a+<br /> Climb the right hand face of the tower with more difficulty than first appearances suggest.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 59. Underneath The Larches 15m E3,5c Fr6b+<br /> Gain the left hand arête of the main wall via the thin crack below.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 60. Life’s Too Short 15m E3,6a Fr6c * <br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right via some long reaches.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 61. Snatched From The Cradle 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Climb the wall just left of the prominent groove. At the top, rock out left a little to the BB. Holds in the next route reduce the grade considerably.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 62. Cradle Snatcher 15m E2,5b Fr6a+<br /> Gain the prominent groove via a thuggy start over the initial overlap.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 63. Baby Going Boing Boing 15m E2,6a Fr6b+<br /> Overcome the bulge to the right and teeter up the vague groove to a thuggish finish to the BB out to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 00.00.2005<br /> <br /> 64. Laughing Boy 15m E5,6b Fr7b <br /> Climb the bulging wall to the right to gain the BB of the last route.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 65. Baby Bouncer 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The wall 5m to the right of Unnamed #-7<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 66. Teenage Kicks 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ ** <br /> The vague hanging arête to the right.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> A few metres to the right is a small cave at ground level. Just left of this is a broken groove.<br /> <br /> 67. My Inheritance 15m E3,5c Fr6b+ * <br /> Pull into the base of the groove, step left and climb the wall direct.<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 68. Ox-Over Moon 15m E1,5b Fr6a ** <br /> Climb the groove, moving slightly right to finish.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 69. Dynamo Kiev 15m E6,6b Fr7b+ <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 70. Grated Expectations 15m E4,6a Fr7a * <br /> Start the wall to the right with a flying leap!<br /> G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 71. Unnamed #1 15m E3,6a Fr6c *<br /> Start just right of a groove and make an awkward move up to gain a a narrow right-facing groove.<br /> T.Dhallu 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 72. Suppose I Try 15m E1,5b Fr6a<br /> Climb the prominent shallow groove to the right.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 73. Anal Gesia 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Make awkward moves up the wall right of the shallow groove to eventually gain an overlap. Finish directly over this to gain the BB of the previous routes.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 74. Unnamed #4 15m E1,5b Fr6a+ *<br /> The wall right again.<br /> N.O’Neill 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 75. Toxicology 15m E4,6a Fr6c+ * <br /> The wall right again.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 76. Hubble, Rubble 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> The groove to the right, with a TR at the top.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 77. Soil And Shovel 15m E1,5b Fr6a *<br /> Climb the wall behind the tree, with some good moves.<br /> R.Thomas 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 78. Anoek Clear Missile 15m E2,5c Fr6b<br /> Climb the awkward wall to the right of the tree, with no deviation.<br /> G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 10.11.2004<br /> <br /> 79. Dirt Box 15m E2,5c <br /> The thin crack to the right passing 2PRs.<br /> R.Thomas, G.Gibson 17.07.2005<br /> <br /> 80. Cradle of Filth 15m VS,4b *<br /> The prominent jam crack to the right.<br /> E.Rees 00.00.2004<br /> <br /> 81. Filthy Snatch 15m E2,5c Fr6b *<br /> Climb the centre of the wall to the right of the crack. Delicate and complex.<br /> R.Thomas 12.07.2005<br /> <br /> 82. Cauldron of Satyr 15m E2,5c Fr6b * <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> G.Gibson 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> 83. Devil’s Brew 15m E1,5c Fr6a+ <br /> Climb the seam bounding the right side of the wall.<br /> R.Thomas 16.07.2005<br /> <br /> == Oxwich Point ==<br /> <br /> <br /> There are two buttresses at Oxwich Point, West and East Buttress. The East Buttress is the first one encountered on the approach. The West Buttress is further on, just west of the headland.<br /> <br /> The minor east buttress, easily recognised by its prominent over¬hanging nose, is passed en route to the headland.<br /> <br /> 1. Mortuary Crack 9m D <br /> <br /> This follows the obvious crack running up behind the blocky nose. B.Winterburn, C.Manison, J.Procter, J.Hobbs 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 2. Vampire Wall 11m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Start at the inner edge of the wall right of Mortuary Crack. Traverse to a small ledge in the middle. Move onto the nose and over it. J.Procter, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> 3. Islay 15m VS,4b<br /> <br /> Start to the right of Vampire Wall below an ivy covered wall on the seaward side immediately below the overhanging nose. Climb a corner and up to sentry box on the right. Continue up to the overhang, then move onto the left wall and over the corner to finish. J.Procter, T.Kitchen, B.Winterburn 00.00.1971<br /> <br /> The West Buttress is more prominent. It is characterised by bulging walls split by a series of steep corners.<br /> <br /> 4. Far South West Corner 12m VD<br /> <br /> The prominent corner on the left of the buttress.<br /> <br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 5. South Wall 15m HS<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of Far South West Corner to half-height, then move left to finish as for Far South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959<br /> <br /> 6. Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus 14m HVS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb South Wall, but continue direct up the shallow left-facing corner forming the left side of the pillar G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> 7. Hide The Sausage 14m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Start 2m left of the right arête of the wall. Gain the shallow groove directly and follow it passing a poor PR on the left.G.Ashmore, R.Thomas, N.O’Neill 06.02.2005<br /> <br /> Round to the right is a narrower chimney (South West Corner).<br /> <br /> 8. Crowbar 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The groove right of the left arete of the wall running across to South West Corner. M.Murray, R.Wadey 00.06.1995<br /> <br /> 9. Lichen Wall 12m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the centre of the wall which runs across to South West Corner. J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959 FFA E.Kellar, A.Richardson - Direct 00.00.1989<br /> <br /> 10. South West Corner 12m HS<br /> <br /> Follow the shallow corner. Loose in its upper section.<br /> R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 11. South West Chimney 12m HS<br /> <br /> Further right is a much more prominent corner. Follow the wide chimney crack in the back. R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1958<br /> <br /> 12. No Hold Barred 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The vague cracks up the wall to the right of the chimney. R.Wadey, P.Nicholas 00.00.1994<br /> <br /> 13. Sea Breeze 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Start up the crack to the right of South West Chimney, as for No Hold Barred. Move right across the face and finish up through the bulges at the top. S.Hill, C.Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Take a bow 14m E2, 5c<br /> <br /> Use the start of Oxbow to get standing on a spike at 10 feet. From here, place gear in pockets in the wall to your left, traverse left onto then up the steep wall to a break. Take the broken groove/crack to the top taking care at the top out. C. Wyatt 23.06.2010<br /> <br /> 14. Oxbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The crackline just around the arete from South West Chimney. Upgraded from VS! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981<br /> <br /> 15. Benbow 12m E1 5b<br /> <br /> The steep crack line on the right side of the overhanging face. Also upgraded from E1! J.Bullock, G.Evans Pre-1981</div>

Gareth Tucker https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Michaelston-le-pit&diff=9610 2011-02-04T09:57:31Z

<p>Gareth Tucker: access update michealston-le-pit (cwm george)</p> <hr /> <div>==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A brand new sports climbing development located in woodland near Dinas Powys, only 15 mins drive from Cardiff.<br /> <br /> The Quarry faces east and dries quickly<br /> <br /> [[Image:Michaelston.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Abseiling over ''The Great Bungle Breeding Experiment'']]<br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> '''Update 04/02/11 - Just heard from Elfyn (BMC) that this site is owned by the woodland trust and climbing is not permitted for conservation reasons. Please avoid climbing here unless the situation changes.'''<br /> <br /> The quarry lies near Michaelston-le-pit near Dinas Powys. From Pen-y-Turnpike Road, which runs between Leckwith and Dinas Powys there is a turning sign posted for Michaelston-le-pit. Drive through the village and follow the road, past a layby, until another layby is encountered next to a bridge which crosses a stream below some ponds. Cross the bridge and follow the track through some fields and past two gates into the woodland. Soon after the woodland is entered one passes a bench on the right and behind this a high cliff face can be seen.<br /> <br /> About 10m past the bench a small path enters the woods and steeply scrambles to the base of the cliff, currently through some dense vegetation although this should improve with traffic.<br /> <br /> [[Image:michaelston.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> Access to and from the top of the quarry is difficult and all routes have lower-offs <br /> <br /> == The Routes==<br /> <br /> #'''The Great Bungle Breeding Experiment - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt;A very pleasant route up the left of the face. Still a little dusty but with plenty of jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Papa Lazarou - Fr. 5+'''&lt;br&gt;Start in the corner then progress upwards to the left of the corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Depleted Geranium - Fr. 6b'''&lt;br&gt;Start in the corner and use the staple to the right of the corner. Continue rightwards through powerful moves to surmount undercut rock. Continue up to second crux near top and lower-off bolts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Furious Bi-Curious - Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt;The leaning wall right of ''Depleted Geranium'' will yield a powerful route.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Depleted Geranium - Michaelston.jpg|500px|thumb|left|D Hannam, on top-rope, below hard move of ''Depleted Geranium'']]<br /> <br /> First Ascent<br /> <br /> 1. D. Emanuel, D. Hannam<br /> <br /> 2. D. Emanuel, D. Hannam<br /> <br /> 3. D. Emanuel, D. Hannam<br /> <br /> 4. D. Emanuel (Project)</div>

Gareth Tucker