https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=David+Emanuel 2026-05-01T05:23:56Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.26.4 https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Castle_Upon_Alun&diff=19007 2016-09-26T08:30:34Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Bridgend Area]]<br /> [[Category:Inland Limestone]]<br /> [[Bridgend Area]]<br /> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> ==BOLTING POLICY==<br /> Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> Quite large, the shady left-hand wall of the quarry has been extensively developed but as of September 2016 the sunnier side is progressively being cleaned and bolted. These walls dry quickly and will be a useful sunny winter days venue.<br /> <br /> The left wall is a steep 70-85 degree slab of good quality, but one that only really dries out in late spring and summer. Expect and avoid times of ''high midgism'' (warm, humid, still summer conditions). It may take a ‘peeling’ to remove the moss carpets on routes on the right hand side of the crag. There are a couple of trad routes, but most of the climbing consists of thin, but well protected sports routes in the 6b/6c range. Worth a visit, if cleaned up this would be an excellent summer venue for Bridgend area climbers when the tides are wrong for [[Witches Point]] or [[Ogmore]].<br /> <br /> Recent re-gearing - July 2010<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> From Junction 35 of the M4 follow the A473 to Bridgend. Several stretches of dual carriageway and roundaboouts lead to a oddly shaped traffic controlled roundabout, just after the McDonalds (joy), with the left turn signposted to [[Ogmore]] By Sea. Take this left turn and continue for about a mile until a left turn is signposted to (Ewenny) Corntown, immediately after a river bridge.<br /> <br /> Follow this road until after ¼ mile there is a shop on the right (Ewenny/Corntown Stores), where a narrow road forks off up the hill on the right. Take this road over the crest of a slight hill. The road goes straight down for about 1 mile, where there is a solitary stone wall ringed house on the right. <br /> <br /> Take the narrow road on the right immediately after the house, and follow this to a ford. (Park here for the forbidden 5 min approach).<br /> <br /> Cross the ford and continue for about half a mile, passing under a bridge to reach a small parking space next to the river(flow meter box and Glamorgan Naturalist Trust Plaque). An uphill footpath through the trees on the right is followed. 30m after passing through the metal gate take a faint path on the right which soon passes under a small escarpement to reach the top of the quarry after about 10 minutes walk. Descend through the trees a few metres back from the top of the crag to reach the base of the first routes.<br /> <br /> The direct approach from the large parking area immediately beyond the ford, crosses the railway line via some steep steps visible from the locked gate. The quarry is about 100m to the left along the rail track, just past an obvious rock cutting. The best place to hop over the fence would be just after the large W sign.One could then follow a faint path off left through the undergrowth past the badger's set. Of course, this access route is strictly forbidden and a hefty fine could ensue!<br /> <br /> OS GR: SS 909 753 / 290912 (E), 175394 (N)<br /> <br /> Nearest Post Code: CF32 0TL&lt;br&gt;<br /> Lat : 51.466967&lt;br&gt;<br /> Long: -3.571838&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> Most routes have lower offs, else abseil from trees.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> [[Image:Castle upon alun.jpg|1200px|thumb|centre|[[Castle Upon Alun]]]]<br /> <br /> The routes are described from left to right as approached.&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Jump on The Gravy Train - Fr.4c'''&lt;br&gt;Short first route provide your own belay crabs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Off the Rails - Fr.4+'''&lt;br&gt;Short,second route, same LO as next route. 7m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Nick's Sore Nuts - Severe, 4a'''&lt;br&gt;Between the two sport routes is a thin crack with earthy recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Fat Controller - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall behind tree. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Supping on Dregs - HD'''&lt;br&gt;The rib and earthy steps via several tree runners.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scrape the Bottom of the Barrel - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;The blocky corner moving right over the roof to a shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Eugene Genie - Fr.7a'''&lt;br&gt;First line on main slab,thin to start, hard at overlap. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cordoba Express - Fr.6c+ * '''&lt;br&gt; Start as for ''Eugene Genie'' to the first BR, step up, then move right to a good bucket. Finish directly with interest. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Matalanafesto - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Direct (2 bolt) start to ''Cordoba Express''. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barry Freight - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;The next bolt line to the right. BB on the left. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Freem Of White Horses - Fr 6b+'''&lt;br&gt; Next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''California Freeming - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Climb next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pubic Enema - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;To the right at the top of the crag is a square-cut groove. Gain this with some thin moves and climb it with care at the very top. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freeming Of Jeannie - HVS,5a'''&lt;br&gt;A diagonal pocketed crack slants up and right to a slot at 15m. Make a committing stretch up to the BB of ''Branch Line'' to finish. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Branch Line - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The slab to the right to step left into the previous route just after the top BR. Follow it to a BB. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There are 3 unrealized projects to the right, then the earth slope rises steeply.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''project'''&lt;br&gt;Homemade hangers, rusty bolts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''closed project''' first alcove,works in progress,keep off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''closed project'''&lt;br&gt;Through the 2nd alcove, the semi bolted line on the earth slope, awaiting the unlikely combination of suitable dryness, no midges and a willing belayer. Most but not all bolts installed, works in progress. 1st bolt taped.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Anal Retention - Fr.6c **'''&lt;br&gt;The route of the crag. Up and right of the alcove at the base of the crag is a white section of rock. Climb this by technical moves. 14m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banal Pretension - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the right is a slot at 3m. Gain this by a technical sequence and continue with difficulty. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trainspotter - Fr.6b *'''&lt;br&gt;At the top of the banking are two shorter lines. This was the left-hand one, with a tricky start. 11m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Trolley Service Suspended - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for Trainspotter,tricky mantle then widely spaced holds lead to a high ring and chain belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Weak Lemon Drink - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;The line to the right has a hard start followed by a dyno for the big triangular pocket. Finish direct. 10m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Top Rail - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for the Sidings then take a leisurely hand traverse left finishing at the chain belay in the short corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''In The Sidings - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The last line on the wall, at the top of the bank just L of the corner and the huge tree stump.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Far Side ===<br /> A path through the trees leads to the rambling walls on the sunnier side of the quarry.<br /> <br /> ==== First Wall ====<br /> #'''Harris's List of Covent Garden Ladies - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; A series of ledges takes one to a high lower-off near the top of the cliff.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freeming At The Gusset - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The left side of the wall passing large orange scars with a tricky move to gain the blocky section of next route. Continue to the shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freempie - Fr.5c'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall to foot ledge then gain easy section avoiding the jigsaw blocks on the right. Final lay back with stretch to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil - Fr.5c **'''&lt;br&gt;Rib and crack above to belay on R of high blocky roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Plum Bob - Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Short groove above easy start behind ash tree stump.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burton Line Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;The groove to the right starting direct via a rail with roots of deceased ash tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Quadcam of Solice Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Leftward Trending Crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crack Liquor - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the crack in the front wall of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Freem Team - Fr.5b'''&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the right arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> <br /> ====Second Wall====<br /> ''Over to the right is another wall. There are several working ropes and half cleaned routes please keep off them, works in progress!''<br /> #'''Knee Trembler - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for the following but move left over the roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> #'''Bush Trimmer's Corner - Fr.5c *'''&lt;br&gt;Gain the starting bay by a short grassy scramble or situ rope,climb the corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> #R.Thomas 00.08.2016<br /> <br /> 1.R Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 2016<br /> 2. R. Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 30.07.2016<br /> R. Thomas Eugene28.07.2016<br /> <br /> 3. Eugene Travers Jones 1995<br /> <br /> 4.R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 5. G.AShmore <br /> <br /> 6. R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 7. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 8. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 9. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 10. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 11. R.Thomas 1995<br /> 12.closed project<br /> 13. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 14. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 15. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #R.Thomas Matt Hirst 13.08.2016<br /> <br /> 16. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #''R.Thomas Eugene Jones ''<br /> #''R.Thomas Giles Davies 26.07.2016''<br /> <br /> '''First wall sunnyside'''<br /> #''D. Emanuel 24.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Sept 2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman 15.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman Jon Woolacot 01.09.2016''<br /> #''D. Emanuel 17.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas R Phillips Gavin 23.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips Gavin Leysham 23.09.2016''<br /> <br /> '''Second Wall '''<br /> #''R.Thomas Eugene 25.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas, Rich, Gavin 23.09.2016''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Castle_Upon_Alun&diff=18987 2016-09-19T11:04:23Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Bridgend Area]]<br /> [[Category:Inland Limestone]]<br /> [[Bridgend Area]]<br /> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> ==BOLTING POLICY==<br /> Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> Although quite large, only the left-hand wall of the quarry has so far been developed. It is a steep 70-85 degree slab of good quality, but one that only really dries out in late spring and summer. Expect and avoid times of ''high midgism''(warm, humid, still summer conditions). It may take a ‘peeling’ to remove the moss carpets on routes on the right hand side of the crag. There are a couple of trad routes, but most of the climbing consists of thin, but well protected sports routes in the 6b/6c range. Worth a visit, if cleaned up this would be an excellent summer venue for Bridgend area climbers when the tides are wrong for [[Witches Point]] or [[Ogmore]].<br /> <br /> Recent re-gearing - July 2010<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> From Junction 35 of the M4 follow the A473 to Bridgend. Several stretches of dual carriageway and roundaboouts lead to a oddly shaped traffic controlled roundabout, just after the McDonalds (joy), with the left turn signposted to [[Ogmore]] By Sea. Take this left turn and continue for about a mile until a left turn is signposted to (Ewenny) Corntown, immediately after a river bridge.<br /> <br /> Follow this road until after ¼ mile there is a shop on the right (Ewenny/Corntown Stores), where a narrow road forks off up the hill on the right. Take this road over the crest of a slight hill. The road goes straight down for about 1 mile, where there is a solitary stone wall ringed house on the right. <br /> <br /> Take the narrow road on the right immediately after the house, and follow this to a ford. (Park here for the forbidden 5 min approach).<br /> <br /> Cross the ford and continue for about half a mile, passing under a bridge to reach a small parking space next to the river(flow meter box and Glamorgan Naturalist Trust Plaque). An uphill footpath through the trees on the right is followed. 30m after passing through the metal gate take a faint path on the right which soon passes under a small escarpement to reach the top of the quarry after about 10 minutes walk. Descend through the trees a few metres back from the top of the crag to reach the base of the first routes.<br /> <br /> The direct approach from the large parking area immediately beyond the ford, crosses the railway line via some steep steps visible from the locked gate. The quarry is about 100m to the left along the rail track, just past an obvious rock cutting. The best place to hop over the fence is just after the large W sign. Follow a faint path through the undergrowth past the badger's set. Of course, this access route is strictly forbidden and a hefty fine could ensue!<br /> <br /> OS GR: SS 909 753 / 290912 (E), 175394 (N)<br /> <br /> Nearest Post Code: CF32 0TL&lt;br&gt;<br /> Lat : 51.466967&lt;br&gt;<br /> Long: -3.571838&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===DESCENTS===<br /> Most routes have lower offs, else abseil from trees.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> [[Image:Castle upon alun.jpg|1200px|thumb|centre|[[Castle Upon Alun]]]]<br /> <br /> The routes are described from left to right as approached.&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Jump on The Gravy Train - Fr.4c'''&lt;br&gt;Short first route provide your own belay crabs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Off the Rails - Fr.4+'''&lt;br&gt;Short,second route, same LO as next route. 7m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Nick's Sore Nuts - Severe, 4a'''&lt;br&gt;Between the two sport routes is a thin crack with earthy recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Fat Controller - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall behind tree. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Supping on Dregs - HD'''&lt;br&gt;The rib and earthy steps via several tree runners.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scrape the Bottom of the Barrel - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;The blocky corner moving right over the roof to a shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Eugene Genie - Fr.7a'''&lt;br&gt;First line on main slab,thin to start, hard at overlap. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cordoba Express - Fr.6c+ * '''&lt;br&gt; Start as for ''Eugene Genie'' to the first BR, step up, then move right to a good bucket. Finish directly with interest. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Matalanafesto - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Direct (2 bolt) start to ''Cordoba Express''. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barry Freight - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;The next bolt line to the right. BB on the left. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Freem Of White Horses - Fr 6b+'''&lt;br&gt; Next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''California Freeming - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Climb next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pubic Enema - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;To the right at the top of the crag is a square-cut groove. Gain this with some thin moves and climb it with care at the very top. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freeming Of Jeannie - HVS,5a'''&lt;br&gt;A diagonal pocketed crack slants up and right to a slot at 15m. Make a committing stretch up to the BB of ''Branch Line'' to finish. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Branch Line - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The slab to the right to step left into the previous route just after the top BR. Follow it to a BB. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There are 3 unrealized projects to the right, then the earth slope rises steeply.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''project''' homemade hangers,rusty bolts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''closed project''' first alcove,works in progress,keep off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''closed project'''&lt;br&gt;Through the 2nd alcove, the semi bolted line on the earth slope, awaiting the unlikely combination of suitable dryness, no midges and a willing belayer. Most but not all bolts installed, works in progress. 1st bolt taped.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Anal Retention - Fr.6c **'''&lt;br&gt;The route of the crag. Up and right of the alcove at the base of the crag is a white section of rock. Climb this by technical moves. 14m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banal Pretension - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the right is a slot at 3m. Gain this by a technical sequence and continue with difficulty. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trainspotter - Fr.6b *'''&lt;br&gt;At the top of the banking are two shorter lines. This was the left-hand one, with a tricky start. 11m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Trolley Service Suspended - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for Trainspotter,tricky mantle then widely spaced holds lead to a high ring and chain belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Weak Lemon Drink - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;The line to the right has a hard start followed by a dyno for the big triangular pocket. Finish direct. 10m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Top Rail - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for the Sidings then take a leisurely hand traverse left finishing at the chain belay in the short corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''In The Sidings - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The last line on the wall, at the top of the bank just L of the corner and the huge tree stump.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Far Side ===<br /> A path through the trees leads to the rambling walls on the sunnier side of the quarry.<br /> <br /> ==== First Wall ====<br /> #'''Freeming At The Gusset - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The left side of the wall passing large orange scars with a tricky move to gain the blocky section of next route. Continue to the shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freempie - Fr.5c'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall to foot ledge then gain easy section avoiding the jigsaw blocks on the right. Final lay back with stretch to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil - Fr.5c **'''&lt;br&gt;Rib and crack above to belay on R of high blocky roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Plum Bob - Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Short groove above easy start behind ash tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burton Line Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;The groove to the right starting direct via a rail with roots of deceased ash tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Quadcam of Solice Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Leftward Trending Crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''There are several working ropes and half cleaned routes please keep off them,works in progress!''<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> #R.Thomas 00.08.2016<br /> <br /> 1.R Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 2016<br /> 2. R. Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 30.07.2016<br /> R. Thomas Eugene28.07.2016<br /> <br /> 3. Eugene Travers Jones 1995<br /> <br /> 4.R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 5. G.AShmore <br /> <br /> 6. R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 7. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 8. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 9. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 10. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 11. R.Thomas 1995<br /> 12.closed project<br /> 13. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 14. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 15. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #R.Thomas Matt Hirst 13.08.2016<br /> <br /> 16. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #''R.Thomas Eugene Jones ''<br /> #''R.Thomas Giles Davies 26.07.2016''<br /> <br /> '''First wall sunnyside'''<br /> #''R.Thomas Sept 2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman 15.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman Jon Woolacot 01.09.2016''<br /> #''D. Emanuel 17.09.2016''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Castle_Upon_Alun&diff=18986 2016-09-19T11:03:24Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Category:Bridgend Area]]<br /> [[Category:Inland Limestone]]<br /> [[Bridgend Area]]<br /> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> ==BOLTING POLICY==<br /> Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> Although quite large, only the left-hand wall of the quarry has so far been developed. It is a steep 70-85 degree slab of good quality, but one that only really dries out in late spring and summer. Expect and avoid times of ''high midgism''(warm, humid, still summer conditions). It may take a ‘peeling’ to remove the moss carpets on routes on the right hand side of the crag. There are a couple of trad routes, but most of the climbing consists of thin, but well protected sports routes in the 6b/6c range. Worth a visit, if cleaned up this would be an excellent summer venue for Bridgend area climbers when the tides are wrong for [[Witches Point]] or [[Ogmore]].<br /> <br /> Recent re-gearing - July 2010<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> From Junction 35 of the M4 follow the A473 to Bridgend. Several stretches of dual carriageway and roundaboouts lead to a oddly shaped traffic controlled roundabout, just after the McDonalds (joy), with the left turn signposted to [[Ogmore]] By Sea. Take this left turn and continue for about a mile until a left turn is signposted to (Ewenny) Corntown, immediately after a river bridge.<br /> <br /> Follow this road until after ¼ mile there is a shop on the right (Ewenny/Corntown Stores), where a narrow road forks off up the hill on the right. Take this road over the crest of a slight hill. The road goes straight down for about 1 mile, where there is a solitary stone wall ringed house on the right. <br /> <br /> Take the narrow road on the right immediately after the house, and follow this to a ford. (Park here for the forbidden 5 min approach).<br /> <br /> Cross the ford and continue for about half a mile, passing under a bridge to reach a small parking space next to the river(flow meter box and Glamorgan Naturalist Trust Plaque). An uphill footpath through the trees on the right is followed. 30m after passing through the metal gate take a faint path on the right which soon passes under a small escarpement to reach the top of the quarry after about 10 minutes walk. Descend through the trees a few metres back from the top of the crag to reach the base of the first routes.<br /> <br /> The direct approach from the large parking area immediately beyond the ford, crosses the railway line via some steep steps visible from the locked gate. The quarry is about 100m to the left along the rail track, just past an obvious rock cutting. The best place to hop over the fence is just after the large W sign. Follow a faint path through the undergrowth past the badger's set. Of course, this access route is strictly forbidden and a hefty fine could ensue!<br /> <br /> OS GR: SS 909 753 / 290912 (E), 175394 (N)<br /> <br /> Nearest Post Code: CF32 0TL&lt;br&gt;<br /> Lat : 51.466967&lt;br&gt;<br /> Long: -3.571838&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===DESCENTS===<br /> Most routes have lower offs, else abseil from trees.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> [[Image:Castle upon alun.jpg|1200px|thumb|centre|[[Castle Upon Alun]]]]<br /> <br /> The routes are described from left to right as approached.&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Jump on The Gravy Train - Fr.4c'''&lt;br&gt;Short first route provide your own belay crabs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Off the Rails - Fr.4+'''&lt;br&gt;Short,second route, same LO as next route. 7m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Nick's Sore Nuts - Severe, 4a'''&lt;br&gt;Between the two sport routes is a thin crack with earthy recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Fat Controller - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall behind tree. 8m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Supping on Dregs - HD'''&lt;br&gt;The rib and earthy steps via several tree runners.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scrape the Bottom of the Barrel - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;The blocky corner moving right over the roof to a shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Eugene Genie - Fr.7a'''&lt;br&gt;First line on main slab,thin to start, hard at overlap. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cordoba Express - Fr.6c+ * '''&lt;br&gt; Start as for ''Eugene Genie'' to the first BR, step up, then move right to a good bucket. Finish directly with interest. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Matalanafesto - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Direct (2 bolt) start to ''Cordoba Express''. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barry Freight - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;The next bolt line to the right. BB on the left. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Freem Of White Horses - Fr 6b+'''&lt;br&gt; Next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''California Freeming - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Climb next line to right. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pubic Enema - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;To the right at the top of the crag is a square-cut groove. Gain this with some thin moves and climb it with care at the very top. 15m &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freeming Of Jeannie - HVS,5a'''&lt;br&gt;A diagonal pocketed crack slants up and right to a slot at 15m. Make a committing stretch up to the BB of ''Branch Line'' to finish. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Branch Line - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The slab to the right to step left into the previous route just after the top BR. Follow it to a BB. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There are 3 unrealized projects to the right, then the earth slope rises steeply.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''project''' homemade hangers,rusty bolts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''closed project''' first alcove,works in progress,keep off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''closed project'''&lt;br&gt;Through the 2nd alcove, the semi bolted line on the earth slope, awaiting the unlikely combination of suitable dryness, no midges and a willing belayer. Most but not all bolts installed, works in progress. 1st bolt taped.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Anal Retention - Fr.6c **'''&lt;br&gt;The route of the crag. Up and right of the alcove at the base of the crag is a white section of rock. Climb this by technical moves. 14m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banal Pretension - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the right is a slot at 3m. Gain this by a technical sequence and continue with difficulty. 12m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trainspotter - Fr.6b *'''&lt;br&gt;At the top of the banking are two shorter lines. This was the left-hand one, with a tricky start. 11m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Trolley Service Suspended - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for Trainspotter,tricky mantle then widely spaced holds lead to a high ring and chain belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Weak Lemon Drink - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;The line to the right has a hard start followed by a dyno for the big triangular pocket. Finish direct. 10m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Top Rail - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for the Sidings then take a leisurely hand traverse left finishing at the chain belay in the short corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''In The Sidings - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The last line on the wall, at the top of the bank just L of the corner and the huge tree stump.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Far Side ===<br /> A path through the trees leads to the rambling walls on the sunnier side of the quarry.<br /> <br /> ==== First Wall ====<br /> #'''Freeming At The Gusset - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;The left side of the wall passing large orange scars with a tricky move to gain the blocky section of next route. Continue to the shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Freempie - Fr.5c'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall to foot ledge then gain easy section avoiding the jigsaw blocks on the right. Final lay back with stretch to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil - Fr.5c **'''&lt;br&gt;Rib and crack above to belay on R of high blocky roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Plum Bob - Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Short groove above easy start behind ash tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burton Line Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;The groove to the right starting direct via a rail with roots of deceased ash tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Quadcam of Solice Fr.5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Leftward Trending Crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''There are several working ropes and half cleaned routes please keep off them,works in progress!''<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> #R.Thomas 00.08.2016<br /> <br /> 1.R Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 2016<br /> 2. R. Thomas 2005<br /> R.Thomas 30.07.2016<br /> R. Thomas Eugene28.07.2016<br /> <br /> 3. Eugene Travers Jones 1995<br /> <br /> 4.R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 5. G.AShmore <br /> <br /> 6. R. Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 7. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 8. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 9. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 10. Andy Freem pre 1991<br /> <br /> 11. R.Thomas 1995<br /> 12.closed project<br /> 13. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 14. R.Thomas 1995<br /> <br /> 15. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #R.Thomas Matt Hirst 13.08.2016<br /> <br /> 16. R.Thomas 1995<br /> #''R.Thomas Eugene Jones ''<br /> #''R.Thomas Giles Davies 26.07.2016''<br /> <br /> '''First wall sunnyside'''<br /> #''R.Thomas Sept 2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman 15.09.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Goi 31.08.2016''<br /> #''R.Thomas Ed Chapman Jon Woolacot 01.09.2016''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Crag_Maintenance&diff=18058 2016-04-28T10:20:32Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:Crag maintenance.png|800px|center|alt=&quot;Crag Maintenance|link=]]<br /> ==Background==<br /> At the South Wales bolt meeting July 2011 it was agreed that proposals for [[Gower|Gower crags]] to be bolted should be voted on at the regular area meetings. Following agreement at an area meeting, consent would then be sought from the landowner before bolting takes place – so the consensus of the climbing community at an area meeting does not necessarily mean that the landowner has given consent.<br /> <br /> In the area meeting in March 2012, it was agreed that any one proposing crags/routes to bolt is asked to post them onto the SWMC wiki before bringing them up at the local area meeting, so that climbers can consider them and visit the crag if necessary to inform their view.<br /> <br /> Please note that all proposals listed on this page should be considered 'projects' and left unclimbed while consensus is being reached so hands off!<br /> <br /> <br /> '''N.B. You will need to [[Special:UserLogin/signup|Create an Account]] (if you don't already have one), if you wish to add a proposal or make a comment. Please remember:'''<br /> *Use your real name as your username<br /> *Constructive comments are welcomed<br /> *Be polite and respectful at all times<br /> *Sign your posts (use the signature icon on the edit toolbar)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Proposals for Discussion - BMC meeting 2014 Clydach 26th March==<br /> '''[http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=3118 Previous Minutes, agenda, etc.]'''<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock ]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 12:53, 21 March 2014 (GMT)<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''' ''Wo Nerdlands'' E6 6b Martin Crocker 1987. Discuss whether to:<br /> #sport up <br /> #remove old pegs and bolts (already stolen) and leave as an open free project with regrading and renaming.<br /> #replace the two bolts with good modern ones <br /> #do nothing and leave as a piece of crumbling historical esoteria<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' it was a route reliant on fixed gear in the first place whats the difference between that and a sports route? [[Eugene Travers Jones ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 12:53, 21 March 2014 (GMT)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Discuss whether with Andy's consent ''More Fool You'' E5 6a(1979) have it's Br's Pr's and lower off rope attached to missing stake replaced giving a Fr 7a+<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' replace in my view as a sports route if andys ok with it. [[Eugene Travers Jones]]<br /> :Andy just e mailed me &quot;go ahead mate am in spain&quot;--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 22:30, 21 March 2014 (GMT)<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy Thomas]]<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' ''IQ Test'' has 5 points of aid- &quot;discuss whether to replace them with bolts giving a hard open sport project or remove them and leave a trad project open to all with possible renaming as is (was) the custom.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' IQ is a semi aid route surely its open season for anybody to do as free climbing sports route. [[Eugene Travers Jones]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Equal Opportunities Wall|Equal Opportunities Cave]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Goi Ashmore<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' - Equal Opportunities Cave is that just West of [[White Edge]] (Shire Combe Area). There is a developed bouldering site on the RHS of the cave going about 1/4 way up and a steeper cave section to the left. The cave would take several sports routes, which would need developing with care in order to avoid damaging some of the conglomerate rails. It would be very similar in nature and completely in character with other nearby venues such as Watch House East, Fox Hole and Bacon Hole and there is no real form of natural protection. The area is heavily grafitied and there is evidence of extensive dig out of the cave by cavers, therefore the site would not appear sensitive. Lower offs would be essential in any case due to the top outs. The existing bouldering would not be affected in any way.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''This place isn't located in a '''SSSI'''. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] ([[User talk:Tim Hoddy|talk]]) 00:23, 30 November 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' [[User:Roy thomas|Roy Thomas]]<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' ''Hitman'' E4,6b had bolt runners, the first ascentionist has no objections if it is rebolted as a sport route. (He also has indicated that his other 80's style clip ups ''Mad Hatter'' E5,6b and ''Culmination Crack'' E3,6a could be sported as well)<br /> <br /> Propose ''Hitman'' be bolted to give a Fr 6c+/7a--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 12:21, 25 March 2014 (GMT)<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock]]'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''Matt Woodfield<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Description:'''I think this is best looked at by crag section, we have a few options for each area:<br /> #Remove all fixed gear, no bolts allowed, derecognise these routes, trad only.<br /> #Protect all old routes, new sport routes allowed<br /> #New sport route allowed, retro some old trad lines, leave the good ones<br /> #Retro everything, new routes allowed.<br /> <br /> I propose we consider use of bolts section by section, allowing modern developments and creating more user friendly climbing, without losing valuable traditional climbs. I dont think we should be replacing gear point for point - its either a trad route without bolts, or a clip up.<br /> <br /> '''Far Eastern Edge:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear or after consultation. Save if Trad line of value. ie ''Cottonwool Cafe''(14) and ''Westling the Polar Bear'' (16)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Eastern Edge:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear. Save trad lines, stakes or BB required.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Main Area:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear or after consultation. Save if Trad line of value. ie ''Z.X.''(36) (would need stake or BB)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fighting Cock:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear or after consultation.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Winning Wall:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear. Save if Trad line of value. Stake or BB required.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Right Hand Area:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear or after consultation. If Trad line saved then BB required&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Chwar Pant Y Rhiw:'''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Pinnacle Bay:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose no bolting allowed. Stakes will be required.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flowstone Wall:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose no bolting allowed. Stakes will be required. (however, if this were to be bolted it would be very popular)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Main Area:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose bolting allowed. New routes and Retro those reliant on fixed gear or after consultation. If Trad line saved then BB required&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Craig Y Castell:'''&lt;br&gt;Propose no bolting allowed. Stakes will be required.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Please discuss and add your own ideas, these can then form the basis or a meeting in the [[Llangattock]] area to plan its future.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''What I read through quickly seemed most sensible for all camps. Ta Matt.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 12:09, 20 April 2014 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''Llangattock<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''R.Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Description:'''Add to agenda for the sept meeting 2014 Matt Woodfields above proposals and mine also posted above(see no need to re-iterate them)<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> ==Proposals to be discussed in area meeting 2013==<br /> [http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=2798 Documents from BMC Meeting (31/01/2013)]<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Rhossili#Shipwreck_Cove|Rhossili - Shipwreck Cove]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Query about bolting<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> :This place is causing a bit of a fuss, ukc claims of touting for bolts etc..<br /> <br /> I can, t find anything out about how this crag was proposed or voted for bolting, except 2012 bmc minutes voting against bolting at rhossilli. <br /> <br /> Can somebody direct me to the documentation for the vote for bolting, and specifically, where the accepted limits of bolting are.<br /> <br /> Thanks.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 10:12, 26 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> :The only thing I can find is this from the notes in the Gower Bolt Policy meeting:<br /> <br /> Rhossilli – New quarried buttress’ of rock. <br /> New sport routes <br /> Meeting taken place with National Trust wardens and Gower access rep, sport routes allowed on certain faces with conditions. See separate doc.<br /> Stuart Llewellyn<br /> For - 19<br /> Against - 0<br /> Abstain – 6<br /> APPROVED<br /> <br /> From here - http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=551<br /> <br /> But I don't think that's talking about Shipwreck Cove specifically. I think it seems to have mostly been left out of discussions and Simon et al have just carried on with it. Unless there's something that's been agreed at the most recent South Wales Area meeting, but there's no minutes for that up yet.<br /> <br /> --[[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore - SWMC Communications Officer]] ([[User talk:Matthew Moore|talk]]) 10:48, 26 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> :Roy mentions something in his Rhossili (Silent Fright) post below. ''Sounds like'' a national trust (not BMC) permit to bolt. I would just like to know the details. Firstly to stop whinging UKC users from thowing around fictional accusations and secondly so that if i want to do any new routes (before Adrian's 30 route bolt fest) I know I'm not going to get into hot water.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 11:24, 26 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> BMC doesn't give permit to bolt, but area meetings I guess do. The quarried area at Rhossili doesn't include Shipwreck. It would be good to deal with Shipwreck retrospectively at the area meeting on 3rd including the new area between Shipwreck and Sheepbone that Adrian is canvassing views on. (Goi)<br /> <br /> <br /> :Al I asked the NT bloke(Matt Woodfield I think)and he said the Blockiness bit was ok and the actual cove itself fine so there's more on that wall to be done before Adrians boltathon.E mail him,they are not anti-bolt at all, as long as we are sensible and don't spread like a bad rash along the beach but ask first.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 11:44, 26 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llangattock]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Roy Thomas<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Bolting Policy Review<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Quarried limestone, lower offs required due to frequent &quot;theft&quot; of stakes and rubbly top outs. &quot;Old school&quot; clip up &quot;harder&quot; routes with decayed gear. New route potential for lower grade sport routes.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 23:31, 13 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Lower offs make sense here as the top outs are so horrible. [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Lower offs seem sensible, but bolting exsisting trad lines seems a waste of time when there is so much unclimbed rock, why not develop new areas for sport and leave the trad as it is ? Simon Rawlinson<br /> <br /> The crag's mix and match routes (those relying on the odd bolt, or a lot of in situ gear) should be assessed. A decision should be taken on whether to remove rotting gear and de-recognise the routes or bolt them up properly. Its time to deal with the misguided legacy of the 80s at all crags in the area. (Goi)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Gary Lewis<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Additional bolt to headwall of ''Fly Me to the Moon''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' A climber sustained serious injury on this route recently.<br /> <br /> This has already been done - so not sure why it's here. If the FA wants to do it (and already has done it), then fair enough. [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Not sure why this has come up as a discussion item - the bolting policy is that sandstone may be retroed with the first ascensionist's permission. (Goi)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Foxhole|Foxhole (Gower)]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Roy Thomas<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' ''Little Miss Lover'' E4 6a<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Replace old fixed gear with bolts, install belay - this is generally regarded as a &quot;sport crag&quot; --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 11:23, 20 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Didn't realise there were trad routes here to be honest. Sounds like it would be better off as a sport route, on what is basically a sport crag. Assuming the FA agrees, then guess so. [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> As agreed at the June 2011 meeting the FA doesn't have to agree but &quot;be consulted&quot;,has anyone been in touch with him (Martin Crocker)--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:42, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Rhossili#Silent Fright Buttress|Rhossili - Silent Fright Buttress]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' [[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 11:38, 20 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Bolt and install belay on ''SILENT FRIGHT'' E4 6a, ''Executioner's Thrill'' E4 6b, ''Audience of Sheep'' E5 6b also new sport developement permitted.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' The whole of this area is quarried non tidal limestone. The National Trust have permitted sport developement in this area last year, the routes have a great deal of corroding fixed gear and &quot;tat&quot;; ''Audience of Sheep'' already has a bolt. --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 11:38, 20 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Have mixed feelings about this. There are already several hard sport routes in the area, do we really need to retro all the hard trad routes as well? What does the FA say? [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> Andy Sharp(the FA) agrees in fact he suggested it to me that's why it's mainly his routes named.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:45, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Personally i would rather this was all left as Trad, not convinced it would be a great sport venue anyway and the lines mentioned are very good trad lines that are not 'Clip up's' <br /> the rock on the lower half of Audiance with sheep would not take a bolt (very loose) so you would end up with a sketchy sport route that would be inviting a incedent. Simon Rawlinson<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Odin%27s_Wall#Odin.27s_Cave|Odin's Cave - (Three Tors Area)]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' [[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 11:47, 20 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description: '''Bolt, install belay on ''Obscenities'' E4 6b. Also permit new sport development.<br /> <br /> '''Comments: '''Non tidal &quot;cave&quot; corroded fixed gear. --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 11:47, 20 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> The whole Three Cliffs area should remain bolt free IMHO. [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> Recently declared SS I, like Malham ,Goredale etc. The NT have declined permission to bolt. Those wishing to repeat will have to replace the pegs and threads themselves.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 21:13, 9 March 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> What efforts are being made to understand why the NT is opposed to this bolting at Odin's Cave. Is it because of damage to specific geological features (and therefore no climbing should be taking place) or is there a more specific concern - it would be good to get more details on this. (Goi)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Pobbles Quarries|Pobbles Bay Quarries (Three Cliffs Bay)]]''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:20, 21 August 2012 (BST))<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy Thomas]] 13:20, 21 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Bolts, lots of them wooooooo!! spreading through the bay.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Old non tidal quarr(y)(ies) suitable for easier sport routes at the grade of climbing predominant in [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs Bay]] but without having to fumble with your nuts or risk getting wet feet.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:20, 21 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> I'd agree with this proposal. Having climbed there tonight, the trad climbing is poor due to lack of protection, loose top and nothing to anchor the top belay to except some gorse bushes 15m back from the edge. Bolting and a little clean up of loose rock would provide 4 or 5 pleasant, safe, accessible, low grade climbs. Gower is lacking beginner friendly sports routes. --[[User:Tim Boothby|Tim Boothby]] 00:09, 23 August 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> We have cleared the bolting of this quarry with the NT(have confirmatory e mail)but the first ascentionist(s) of the established routes should be consulted(note change in wording as a result of group decision at the 2011 meeting)so if the meeting agree on the 4th Sept there should be no reason not to go ahead despite the profusion of &quot;quality&quot; trad routes appearing there.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 09:51, 2 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> Again, would prefer the area to remain bolt free. [[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore]] 13:13, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> This old quarry is a prime candidate for bolting. No one in their right mind would want to climb trad there unless, perhaps, to bag a first ascent. I understand that the first ascentionists are keen for this crag to be fully bolted. If that happens then it would make a nice, non-tidal, sheltered climbing spot for beginners. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 13:32, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> Fully agree Tim anyone can bolt my two trad lines there if they wish--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 10:14, 31 January 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:'''The Creation of an account<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 09:51, 2 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''Several people have commented that they would like to post on this forum but have no&quot;account&quot;<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''As this is open and they can read it,HOW DO THEY DO THIS?<br /> --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 09:51, 2 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> : They use the 'Create Account' link at the top right of each page! Please remember to use your REAL NAME as your username (e.g. 'Fred Bloggs', 'Sidney Greenstreet', 'Tim Hoddy', etc.), otherwise I'll probably just delete the account. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:07, 2 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> : You could also use this link to sign up. '''[[Special:UserLogin/signup|Create an Account]]''' --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 11:02, 2 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:'''Llantrisant Drugs Cliff<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:36, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''Sandstone Quarry<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''Regear very old bolts(8mms)<br /> <br /> Good call (goi)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Paviland Far Far West]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:36, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Complete the refurbishment with bolts<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Agreed at June 2011 Gower meeting and NT on side.<br /> Done fully regeared,respect the two ongoing projects.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 20:58, 9 March 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Llanbradach]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 13:59, 3 September 2012 (BST) <br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Continue regearing<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' There are 100 or so routes here another 15+still need rebolting<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Barland Quarry|Barlands Quarry Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:15, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Slabs with missing/ crumbling old hangers. <br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Replace Lower Offs/refurbish old bolt/hangers where needed. New sport routes provided a rope can be got in from the top. This place is popular for the easier route and a bit of the shiny stuff would do wonders. There are also some hard 7a,7b+ routes that need bolt hangers which have been missing for 15yrs. --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:15, 3 September 2012 (BST)<br /> :Some regearing work was started but the regearing rope and screwgate anchors were stolen before completion--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:48, 30 January 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' Machen Cycle Track Quarry<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Rhys Mence<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Recent Bolting<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Someone has begun bolting routes in this quarry and i'm wondering who it might be? I live in Machen and would be more than happy to help set up routes. Theres large amounts of moss and vegetation on the walls but when i realised someone had bolted a line I had a good look and realised this crag could have some potentially great routes. It's not a large quarry and seepage could be a problem but it's easy accessible if your willing to walk 10 minutes down the track. <br /> <br /> :Hi rhys, I imagine its Dave Emmanuelle. He's a user here so ty him.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 22:46, 18 September 2012 (BST)<br /> These are all awaiting dry conditions,maybe this summer (unless it's like 2012) so keep off them until until informed of completion on wikki.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 20:54, 9 March 2013 (GMT)<br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag: [[Foxhole]]''' <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:48, 30 January 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Little Miss Lover<br /> <br /> '''Comments: Anyone contacted Crocker yet,if all agree shall a complets refit be done?Just seen the minutes for forthcoming meeting and see this has recieved attention.''' <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag: [[Llangattock]]--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:48, 30 January 2013 (GMT)''' <br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' <br /> <br /> '''Description: Any news of the placing of lower offs/bolting meeting supposed to be taking place solely to discuss this area.''' <br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Just seen the minutes of the meeting and see that this has been mentioned<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag: Port Eynon''' --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:48, 30 January 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' <br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Sport routes in the zawns possibly already proposed by others previously.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' [[Foxhole_Cove#Deep_Cut_.28Dark_Side_of_the_Moon_Zawn.29|Deep Cut (Dark Side of the Moon Zawn)]]<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Danny McCarroll<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' This is the tidal bit of [[Foxhole]]. Propose to bolt the existing easier trad routes here and add a few lines to give a collection of easier sport routes. Foxhole is a sport crag now and these routes are rarely if ever climbed. In contrast, the one easy route on the slab above (Power of the leapord skin leg warmers, grade 3) is very popular. Adding these routes would provide a much-needed venue where beginners can learn to climb outside in relative safety. The lower-offs would be accesible from the top, so someone can stand there and check that learners are threading properly. Most of the routes were climbed by Goi and/or Roy. Roy has agreed, I have not spoken to Goi yet. <br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' <br /> <br /> No need to retro bolt the existing trad routes .--[[User:Joe gallacher|Joe gallacher]] ([[User talk:Joe gallacher|talk]]) 15:43, 14 July 2013 (BST)<br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> I would be happy for my routes to be retrobolted if (1) that's what people want (2) all the routes on the relevant side of the zawn were bolted. I wouldn't want my routes retroed if (1) Illywhacker (2) Roygoi were not retroed.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' Abbey Butress Port Talbot<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' R.Thomas<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Bolt PR job and hack path through gorse<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' Seek FA opinion--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 21:04, 9 March 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' Alan Rosier<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Retro Black Magic<br /> <br /> '''Comments:''' The same bolts on the reto'd black magic would also replace two 30yr old comedy pegs on ladybird traverse.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:''' '''[[Graves_End#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End]]'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:''' John Bullock 27/5/13<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Would like to propose turning this unfrequented trad area into a sports crag. The rock is generally of poor quality particularly in the lower half and gear placements are often in friable positions. However, there appear to be reliable areas of rock mixed in (generally with no trad kit!) that could take bolts. I think this area could provide an excellent and popular source of good middle grade sports routes if bolted.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''Excellent idea John there are also a few routes relying on rusty metal and bootlace threads of the exploding nature(personal experience)Maybe FA could be consulted re their &quot;opinions &quot;of retroing.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 15:08, 27 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> I agree John ...... Great idea. Quality of protection here is poor even for the lower grades. Daniel Cook<br /> <br /> Sounds good to me too, but who consults the F.A. is it a gaggle of individuals or the BMC rep? Maybe I missed this and it has been discussed at a Swansea meeting? --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 09:42, 29 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> I agree that this would make a good sport venue. It is not a good trad venue at all. Note that is was not included in the recent selected guide to Gower and I fully understand why. It is quite a steep crag, so you really have to pull on the holds, and the rock quality is basically not up to the job. The result is that climbing here is a bit of a gamble; you might be lucky but you might not. Survival intact has little to do with skill. Personally I am very very fond of my lower limbs, and my back does not repond well to extreme shock, so I have not been tempted to climb much here, even though it is a very local crag. Bolting would totally transform it. It is a really beautiful and stangely remote part of Gower. It is rarely wet, often sunny and, what makes it really special for me, it is graced by falcons. There is no better place on Gower to hold the rope and gaze at the sky. Why don't we stop moaning about the good old days, and pretending that the trad climbing here is worth preserving, and embrace the joy of actually going climbing, rather than just reading about it in old guide books? Danny McCarroll<br /> <br /> : Whilst I believe that [[Graves_End#Graves_End_Wall|Graves End]] would make a very nice ''Sports Crag'' it is probably the wrong crag to think about equipping.<br /> : Two Reasons:<br /> : 1. I think there are still plenty of climbers around who would be quite vocal in their opposition to equipping it.<br /> : 2. I believe that Graves End is one of the few places '''''in the UK''''' where there are concentrations of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draba_aizoides Yellow Whitlow Grass] and I suspect that the NT (or whomever owns it) would be unwilling to tolerate an increase in traffic.<br /> :--[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] ([[User talk:Tim Hoddy|talk]]) 17:24, 30 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> John I don't agree. Having grown up climbing around Pennard and continuing to do so with several visits to Gower a year I have really noticed the steady growth of retro-bolting. I have seen/enjoyed the benefits of the hard work put into equipping some places like watch house and fox hole. But it is beginning to spread to established trad areas. I would consider the retro bolting of places such as high pennard, with classics such as dan dare, samurai, knuckle fluster etc as unacceptable. Although not the proposal, I fear that it would become the logical next step after Graves End. I have climbed the trad at graves end and it is just like all the other rock around pennard. There is some loose rock and some of it is friable. As a point of fact, the only injury I have had recently was whilst clipping bolts at watch hole. A hold exploded between first and second bolt. I hit the floor with my head. Just because a route is bolted does not change the quality of the rock, or necessarily reduce the risk involved. <br /> Dan Dyson<br /> <br /> No need to bolt , use the trad protection that the FA has demonstrated exists .--[[User:Joe gallacher|Joe gallacher]] ([[User talk:Joe gallacher|talk]]) 15:43, 14 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> I don't think that we really should be going around retro-bolting existing trad routes. As Simon Rawlinson has said, there's plenty of unclimbed rock, so no need to retro-bolt. Also as Tim H has mentioned it's an SSSI and there's a good chance the NT will say no anyway. It's a perfectly decent trad crag so let's just leave it alone. --[[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore - SWMC Communications Officer]] ([[User talk:Matthew Moore|talk]]) 19:29, 14 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Crag:'''LLangattock <br /> '''Proposer:''' R.Thomas<br /> <br /> '''Description:''' Re previous proposition.Some heel dragging going on here, for what/whom/when do we wait.<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''What's happening about the proposed &quot;seperate&quot; Llangattock meeting as it's an area &quot;of National significance<br /> Who has done lots of &quot;significant new routes there&quot;? When will these be disclosed or will we have to wait until after they appear in a climbing publication.--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 15:08, 27 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> With some second hand info and reading between the lines a little, I think the following sums up the situation (and please correct me with hard facts if I interpret the situation incorrectly).<br /> <br /> #Elfyn Jones (BMC Wales) has spoken to the land owners about potential for bolts (be it installing bolted lower offs / sports routes / retro bolting / whatever...?) in advance of discussion between climbers.&lt;br&gt;<br /> #In a recent call to arms for a crag clean up, the installation of dedicated belay stakes were talked about.&lt;br&gt;<br /> #Martin Crocker is in the process of producing a mini guide to the Llangattock Escarpment detailing old and new developments.<br /> <br /> <br /> All this sounds like the discussions on bolts have resulted in a no bolt agreement, the details of discussions are likely to be presented in conjunction with the mini guide.<br /> <br /> All in all sounds like no change. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 09:42, 29 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I agree. I thought the idea of this wiki page was that we would discuss crags BEFORE they were developed. It seems that applies to sport climbing but not trad climbing. So as soon as we propose a crag for bolting is it OK to go and trad everything, write a mini-guide and effectively ban bolting? I am glad that I do not live near Llangattock and so have no reason to bust a blood vessel. Danny McCarroll. <br /> <br /> <br /> Danny, the post isn't clear I'm sorry. The crag is an established (extinct) trad venue with some horrendous top outs and shattered rock, which increases yearly without traffic. The proposal was to place bolted lower offs on established climbs to protect precious cliff top vegetation (not, actually to protect our friends from serious injury and death) and to retro old bolted/pegged routes and even create some sporty areas. The local farmer that leases the land for grazing also steals belay stakes and pretends he owns the place - &quot;Gerroff Me Laaaaand!&quot;. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] ([[User talk:Alan rosier|talk]]) 12:26, 30 May 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> Al - The reason Llangattock is 'back on' is because the farmer has left. So people are talking about clmbing there more etc. <br /> <br /> Danny - Al has it spot on there. Llangattock was developed as a trad crag in the 70s and 80s. So you're not missing much. There's plenty of unclimbed rock (it's quite a long cliff) that you can bolt up. I'd imagine that the local outdoors centers who currently use the crag would love having some routes which they can safely top rope. --[[User:Matthew Moore|Matthew Moore - SWMC Communications Officer]] ([[User talk:Matthew Moore|talk]]) 19:36, 14 July 2013 BST)<br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Gilwern:'''<br /> <br /> '''D. Emanuel:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description: Stainless Steel Hangers and Non-Stainless Bolts - Severe bolt corrosion! Happy to re-bolt if someone will provide the gear.'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;hr&gt;<br /> '''Crag:'''<br /> <br /> '''Proposer:'''<br /> <br /> '''Description:'''<br /> <br /> '''Comments:'''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Three_Sisters_And_Deborah%27s_Zawn&diff=17757 2015-09-20T19:27:21Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:Worms head sunset.jpg|700px|thumb|right]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:Gower]]<br /> '''[[Gower]]'''<br /> <br /> == TIDAL STATUS ==<br /> The Three Sisters are non-tidal. '''[[#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''' 4 hours either side of low water.<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags.<br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> This is a seldom frequented area of Gower, with some further potential for development - although this will require some dedicated trundling! The main crags of interest are the steep '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' and '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''', with the best quality rock and some very good E2-E5s. Of the other crags, there are a few easier routes that would be good if a little time was spent removing some (small but numerous) blocks. The crags are described from west to east, as they are approached from '''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> {{#display_points:<br /> {{Googlemap}}<br /> |zoom=16<br /> |height=450<br /> |centre=51.55602, -4.26391<br /> | service=openlayers<br /> | layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing<br /> <br /> }}<br /> '''1. Pitton Approach'''<br /> <br /> Approach from Pitton as for ''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''. At the seaward end of the valley of Rams Grove, turn left (west) to a good path that runs all the way along the cliff, scrambling up to each sister in turn. The path crosses a very rickety fence above a steep zawn below the [[Third Sister]]. The steep zawn is [[Deborah’s Zawn]], accessed by scrambling down its east (left when facing seaward) side.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''2. Paviland Approach'''<br /> <br /> As for [[Paviland]] to the dry valley where the sea becomes visible. From the stile at the landward end of the valley, cross a stile on the right (west) leading up to a higher level. Pass over two further stiles to reach a dry valley, with a rotten pinnacle visible on the far side (this leads down to the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Overhang Area|Deborah's Overhang Area]]'''). Instead of dropping down the valley with the pinnacle, continue up to the next spur. On the far side of this, a zig zag track leads down a faint gully and towards the sea. This leads to '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' in about 60m.<br /> <br /> == DESCENTS ==<br /> Scramble down easily and obviously from the '''[[Three Sisters]]'''. For '''[[Deborah’s Zawn]]''', either abseil or lower off. For some routes this requires a hanging rope.<br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> === First Sister ===<br /> GR 430865<br /> <br /> '''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''<br /> <br /> ''The First Sister is a compact cliff just east of the '''[[Rams Grove]]''' valley. It has an overhanging face with a snaking crack<br /> line in the centre (''Sister of Mercy''), whilst to the right is a Y-shaped depression.''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''1. Mercy, Mercy, Mercy 21m E5,6a *'''<br /> <br /> Start 4m left of the snaking crack at a tiny niche at 2m. Move up to place good wires in an incipient crackline, then make fingery moves right to a little black scoop. Swing left to a break, surmount the bulge above, PR and continue to a crack. Take the crack to the top, taking care with the exit move.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''2. Sister of Mercy 21m E4,6a *'''<br /> <br /> The clean, snaking crackline in the centre of the buttress. Climb steeply to the second of 2PRs. Climb the groove to an easier crack, which leads to the top on dubious rock.<br /> <br /> ''J.Bullock, G.Evans 1pt 21.06.1987''<br /> <br /> ''FFA A.Price 00.09.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''3. Paparazzi Blues 21m E6,6b *'''<br /> <br /> A pump out taking the bulging rib overhanging the start of Sister Of Mercy. Follow ''Sister Of Mercy'' to a jug 1m above the first PR. Break out right with difficulty to vertical cracks in the rib. Climb the rib on its right side, exiting slightly right over a bulge.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''4. The Angst Of Anti-Fashion 21m E5,6b *'''<br /> <br /> Climb the y-shaped depression at the right side of the cliff to reach a bulge forming the inverted crotch of the Y. Traverse left between overhangs to a hanging groove and pull up strenuously right, PR. Escape up a short flake.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''5. South East Wall 21m E1,5b'''<br /> <br /> As for ''The Angst of Anti-Fashion'', but from the bulge take the right-hand arm.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1966''<br /> <br /> ''FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1984''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''6. Solitary Brother 21m E3,6b'''<br /> <br /> The rib to the right of ''South East Wall''. Pull straight over the bulge and step immediately left to reach a thin flake crack. Climb the rib to the traverse of ''South East Wall'' and finish with difficulty.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''<br /> <br /> === Second Sister ===<br /> [[Image:First and second sister.jpg|700px|thumb|right|'''First and Second Sister''']]<br /> GR 430866<br /> <br /> '''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''<br /> <br /> ''This is the buttress immediately east of the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#First Sister|First Sister]]'''. It has an attractive slabby south wall, but is not quite as good as it appears when viewed from its east side. Some of the routes would be pretty good if anyone were prepared to do a little trundling. The most obvious feature is the prominent fin of ''Finnmark''. The first two routes more or less end at a shoulder at 18m, where it is possible to scramble off left. The rest of the routes go to the top of the cliff.''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1.''' Barney Rubble 18m VD'''<br /> <br /> Climb loose rock left of the fin of rock at the left side of the crag.<br /> <br /> ''C.Allen, solo 00.00.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Finnmark 18m E2,5b'''<br /> <br /> From the ledge at the start of ''Barney Rubble'', swing right round the arete to the obvious groove of ''South Wall''. Move up and stretch left to the fin edge. Climb the right side to the top. An obvious, but disappointing route.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''South Wall Variation 28m VS,4c *'''<br /> <br /> Gain the groove of ''South Wall'' as for ''Finnmark'', but continue as for ''South Wall'' itself.<br /> <br /> ''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1989''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''South Wall 33m VS,4c'''<br /> <br /> Might be worth a star if it was trundled at the start. Start at the right edge of the ledge running across the start of the wall proper. Make a leftward-rising traverse to reach the corner crack and follow this to a ledge. Finish through the small overlap above the groove.<br /> <br /> ''E.Pardoe, J.Talbot 00.00.1969''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Arrow 33m HVS,5a'''<br /> <br /> Supersedes an earlier indirect route, ''Harrow'' (''P.Kokelaar, G.Williams 1969''). Climb the lower slabs just right of the start of ''South Wall'', via a slanting crack line to gain the overhangs. Overcome these to gain the top.<br /> <br /> ''G.Evans, P.Clay 18.10.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Topless Admirers 33m HVS,5a'''<br /> <br /> This takes a line of slabs and grooves 2m right of ''South Wall''.<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.04.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Sister Sledge 33m E1,5a'''<br /> <br /> Start as for Topless Admirers, then finish up the obvious grooves further right.<br /> <br /> ''G.Lewis, P.Thomas, A.Richardson 00.00.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> The crag has an eastern side wall.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Sister Bliss 13m E5,6b'''<br /> <br /> Start at the left end of the broken ledge running beneath the wall. Take the obvious leftward-rising overlap to gain a shallow hanging groove, TR. Finish directly on flakes up the leaning wall.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. '''Bloodbond 12m E1,5b'''<br /> <br /> Start as for ''Sister Bliss'', then follow an intermittent crack on honeycombed rock right of a grey flake. Proceed directly on flakes up the unlikely wall above to the top, avoiding premature escapes into the groove on the right.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. '''Sleuth 12m E3,5c'''<br /> <br /> Take the concave slab (sic) above the middle of the ledge beneath the wall. Follow a very slight, overhanging flake a little leftwards onto the slab. Go directly up from an undercut onto the easier angled slab, keeping just left of the groove on the right. Exit with care.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''<br /> <br /> === Sister 2 and Half ===<br /> [[Image:Sister two and half.jpg|right|thumb|700px|Sister Two and Half]]<br /> '''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''<br /> <br /> ''To the east (right) of the [[Second Sister]] is a compact wall at a high level. The routes peter out quite quickly and a preplaced belay rope will help mitigate the full horrors of a top out.''<br /> <br /> 1. '''The Wettest April Since Records Began''' 18m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Near the left-hand end of the cliff is a brown coloured crack. A few metres to the right is a slim groove in the grey wall leading up to the left of a jutting overhang. Climb the groove to a short flake crack below a bulge. Move right and through the bulge. Finish up an easier broken groove.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''The cliff now continues right, looking fairly blank and featureless in its lower half until an orange niche at 6m, some 9m from the right edge of the cliff. The next route takes the leaning wall left of the niche.''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Sisterly Luv''' 15m E5,6a<br /> <br /> Follow the junction of the grey streak and white rock past Bristol PRs to a bulge. Overcome this to a crack leading rightwards to an overhang, a short groove on the right and a wobbly exit to the ledge.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''The Beverly Sisters''' 15m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Start below and slightly to the right of the orange niche. Make committing moves into the niche and continue up the crack and wall to join ''Sisterly Luv'' at the overhang.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''In Between Sisters 15m E4,6a'''<br /> <br /> Start 4m left of a rubble zone at the right end of the wall. Move up to a small pocket on the smooth grey wall (crucial Rock 5 placement). Step right and move up on scoops to a bulge (TRs possible). Surmount the bulge direct. Abseil off at the top of the good rock.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''<br /> <br /> === Third Sister ===<br /> GR 432863<br /> [[Image:Third sister.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Third Sister]]<br /> '''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''Situated 5 mins walk east of the [[Second Sister]], this is a series of solid bulging and overhanging walls rising in a leftwards direction above the loose lower section. The starts of the left-hand routes involve exposure out of context with their length. Apart from ''Sexploration'' all the routes start from a grass terrace running up left at two-thirds height from just above a rickety fence. The most obvious feature is the shallow cave 4m up ''French Undressing'', but beware, the nest is thought to belong to a Pterodactyl. The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains ''Sexploration''.''<br /> <br /> Many of the routes have been re-geared to a high standard (2009).<br /> <br /> <br /> The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains two lines:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Gemini Spunk Wizard and his Sexually Active Teapot - Project'''<br /> <br /> Several meters left of Harriet Harman. Starts at base of lower tier.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Harriet Harman &amp; the Lehman Sisters - Fr.6c+'''<br /> <br /> This is the line left of Sexploration on the lower tier. First bolt is a long way up, and the hanger is missing. <br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Sexploration - E4, 5c'''<br /> <br /> Start 30m left of the wooden fence below the Sister. Climb the broken wall to intersect an incipient crack in the white wall. Gain a good square-cut hold. Undercut over the bulge above and pull onto the hanging slab. Continue to good cracks and finish easily. Belay on the terrace, and scramble to the top of the cliff via a short chimney. 30m<br /> <br /> <br /> ''The routes on the main crag are described from left to right, starting at the top of the terrace.''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Do Be Doo - E3, 6a *'''<br /> <br /> Take the bulging wall a few metres right of the boulder blocking the top of the terrace, below a vague arete, PR. 10m<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Chilean Flame Thrower - Fr.7b/7b+ *'''<br /> <br /> A route for boulderers. The steep wall between Doo Be Doo and Fire In Their Eyes is quite intense to the break. 10m <br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Fire In Their Eyes - E6, 6b *'''<br /> <br /> Start right of ''Do Be Doo'' and just left of ''Flaming Fingers''. From a ragged pocket swing up the overhanging wall rightwards, PR. Pinch a rib (Friend 2), then move strenuously up to a leftwards pull PR, to the break. Continue to the top past a final PR. 10m<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Flaming Fingers - E5, 6b *'''<br /> <br /> Start at a seat-like feature about 9m below the top of the terrace running up the crag, below a low PR. Power up this wall, 3PRs, to hit the chossy break. Step 3m left, and make a tricky move up into a thin flake crack to finish. 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''World In Action - Fr.7b+ *'''<br /> <br /> About halfway down the ramp Follow a series of glued in bolts up the bouldery start to a desperate sequence which eases soon enough. Take a breather at the break then finish up the easier upper overhang and slab sharing a loweroff with Popped In, Souled Out 18m <br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Popped In, Souled Out - Fr.7b *'''<br /> <br /> The first line of bolts left of the pterodactyl cave. There is good rest above the first roof. . 21m<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. '''Chilean Flame Flower - E6, 6c'''<br /> <br /> A desperate pitch up the leaning and reachy wall just right of ''Popped In, Souled Out'', below a high PR. Climb the wall, with a very bold first clip and nightmare moves, second PR, to eventually gain the break at a worryingly loose block. Step a little right and pull easily up the headwall to finish. 15m<br /> <br /> [[File:Mateusz web.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Mateusz Andrzejewski on The Enema Affair]]<br /> <br /> 10. '''French Undressing - F6c+ *'''<br /> <br /> Start below the right side of the pterodactyl cave at 4m. Climb awkwardly up to this via 2 bolts, and stand up. Make the tricky crux moves upwards/ rightwards and follow a vague groove to the top. Lower off well back on the wall of the 4th tier 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. '''Twilight World - F6c **'''<br /> <br /> The line of bolts on the wall to the right of french undressing. 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''South East Wall - F6a+ **'''<br /> <br /> A very good pitch initially following the rightward-slanting ramp/crackline. After a few meters branch off vertically upward following a line of bolts to an interesting lower off. 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. '''Fiesta - F6b *'''<br /> <br /> A good pitch. Start 3m right of ''South East Wall'' Follow a line of holds just right of the bolts to a lower off shared with South East Wall<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. '''Bob's Your Uncle - E3, 5c'''<br /> <br /> Harder than it looks from the floor. Identify the rightward-slanting jam crack up and before the deep gash in the crag. Climb up to this on pockets and grooves, without much of a line, to hit the jam crack. Follow this and take the vague scoop at its end. Once the groove ends in poor rock, pull back left on good rock via a scallop, to gain the terrace. 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. '''Ten Bears - HVS, 4c'''<br /> <br /> Climb the discontinuous crack system in the prow 6m right of ''Bob's Your Uncle''. Finish with care. Rough As. 12m<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. '''Sister Mary's Blessed Finger - Fr.6a'''<br /> <br /> This is a two tiered climb. A Tricky start to the bottom of the crag is followed by a pleasant outing up the tooth. 18m<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 17. '''Enema Affair - Fr.5'''<br /> <br /> The shorter bolt line to the right of Sister Mary's blessed finger. You can either share the start of that route or walk in from the right. 10m<br /> <br /> === 3rd Sister RH ===<br /> <br /> GR SS 432 863<br /> <br /> ''Up and right (Facing the land) of the 3rd sister is a small craglet containing much loose rock and very little, if any, worthwhile climbing. However, if you find yourself suffering 'long distance bolt clippers syndrome' on the third sister you could pop across the valley for some proper character building stuff. There is one route to date :''<br /> <br /> 1. '''Bored of clipping bolts - VS, 4b'''<br /> <br /> Find the square cut corner in the middle of the crag. Start at the lower continuation crack leading to its left hand side and climb to the top avoiding pushing too hard on the massive block on the right which does not seem to be attached to anything. 10m<br /> <br /> <br /> === Deborah's Zawn ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:Deborahs zawn.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Deborah's Zawn]]<br /> '''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.''<br /> <br /> ''Deborah's Zawn offers a selection of high quality sport routes. The zawn is situated just below the path running beneath [[Third Sister]]. Easy scrambling down the east side leads to the bottom. The routes are accessible about 4 hours either side of low tide, but be warned, the tide does come in very quickly. The most obvious features are the rightward-rising traverse line of ''Silent Echo'' and the steep leftward-leaning crack of ''Resisting Arrest''.''<br /> <br /> <br /> #'''Silent Echo - E1, 5a *'''&lt;br&gt;A strenuous pitch, for which a couple of small Friends are handy. From the left-hand end of the higher section of the zawn, climb steeply to the rightwards traverse line. Follow it across the face to a BB. 19m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Debbie Reynolds - E5, 6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Start below the obvious flake in the leaning brown wall above and right of the start of ''Silent Echo''. Climb straight up the back wall to a bulge. Gain the flake strenuously, PR. Finish up the leaning wall. PB back left. 15m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Silent Echo Direct Start - E2, 5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Start at a vague weakness, which bounds the left-hand side of the steeper right-hand section of the crag. Climb this awkwardly, to gain the traverse line at the base of the groove. Follow the groove to the BB. 16m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Can Anybody Hear? - E5, 6b'''&lt;br&gt;A hanging rope is required for the top. As for ''Silent Echo Direct'' to the traverse line, but continue straight up the leaning pink wall to a hanging flake. Move up on a sloper (crucial rock 4), up to hand ledges and finish direct with difficulty, via a left-facing groove. 20m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolder Boulder - Fr. 6c *'''&lt;br&gt;Start at an obvious archway right of the jammed log. From the right side of the arch move left until your under the 2 pegs. A long move leads to the safety of the pegs. Steady climbig leads to good holds and more gear then move left to join the last few feet of Silent Echo Direct and a BB. Warning: The pegs are from 1998 and don't look to be in great shape. 18m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under Arrest - Fr. 7c **'''&lt;br&gt;Start right of boulder boulder, tricky moves gain &quot;wide eyed&quot;, a hard sequence on pockets and crimps gains jugs, move slightly left and finish directly up the wall before moving left to silent echo belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wide Eyed And Legless - Fr. 7b+'''&lt;br&gt;Lower diagonal line left of ''Resisting Arrest'', joins ''Bolder Boulder'' to finish. 18m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Resisting Arrest - Fr.7b+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Soaring diagonal crack right of ''Wide Eyed..'' Follow the sustained diagonal crack to join and finish as for ''Bolder Boulder'' &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dept. of Correction - Fr. 7b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;An awesome series of moves lead up and into a prominent groove high up. New bolt belay shared with ''The Salubrious Passage'' Advisable to stick clip first bolt.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Support Your Local Sheriff - Fr. 7b+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Powerful start and finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deputy Dawg - Fr. 7b+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Support Your Local Sheriff'', pull up to obvious break, clip 2nd bolt and then head leftwards along a line of undercuts to join with ''Dept. of Correction'' by its fourth bolt, finish up this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Salubrious Passage - E5, 6a **'''&lt;br&gt;Starts at the back of the zawn and follows the obvious overhanging crack heading out towards daylight and finishing at a bolt and peg belay. A head torch may be found useful altough wasn't used on the F.A. Well protected, pumpy climbing. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> ===Third Sister===<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> <br /> #Goi Ashmore 12.09.2009<br /> #M.Crocker 31.05.1998<br /> #M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998<br /> #Goi Ashmore 23.04.2010<br /> #M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998<br /> #M.Crocker 21.08.1988<br /> #A.Sharp 00.00.1989<br /> #A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 06.02.1988<br /> #M.Crocker 21.08.1988<br /> #A.Sharp, P.Lewis 10.10.1987<br /> #A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood, A.Wilson, R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987<br /> #J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1963&lt;br&gt;FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986<br /> #A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 10.10.1987<br /> #A.Sharp, R.Powles 06.10.1987<br /> #R.Powles, A.Hughes, A.Wilson 10.10.1987<br /> #R.Thomas 00.00.2009<br /> #R.Thomas 00.00.2009<br /> <br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> === 3rd Sister RH continuation===<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> #Chris Wyatt. Steve Lucoque 14.12.09<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> === Deborah's Zawn===<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> <br /> # A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985<br /> # M.Crocker 21.08.1988<br /> # R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987<br /> # M.Crocker 31.05.1998<br /> # A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 11.10.1987<br /> # A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 01.10.1987<br /> # A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985<br /> # M. Richards 00.00.2010<br /> # M. Richards 00.00.2010<br /> # A.Sharp 00.00.2010<br /> # M.Richards 00.09.2010<br /> # M.Richards, A.Sharp and P.Lewis 00.01.2005<br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17621 2015-07-27T11:57:02Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Top Drawers - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Left hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bottom Drawers - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route. Delicate&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Drawers - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward steeply, step up then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sticky Tissue Issue Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''La doux parfum de la lingerie utilise - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Secret Drawers - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;An unpleasant ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Dirty and loose.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceeding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hand Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17586 2015-07-08T21:26:08Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Top Drawers - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Left hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bottom Drawers - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route. Delicate&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Drawers - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward steeply, step up then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sticky Tissue Issue Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''La doux parfum de la lingerie utilise - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pork-centred Egg (Project) - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous. Frayed cleaning rope in place beware of jumaring/pulling on it or if you intend stealing either it or the project pull as hard as you like.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceeding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hand Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Morfa_Bychan&diff=17550 2015-06-25T12:05:24Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Carmarthenshire]]<br /> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> Morfa is a jewel of a crag located in a small easily accessible cove west of [[wikipedia:Pendine|Pendine]]. The sandy bay, possibility of wild camping, fishing and proximity to the pub all add to its appeal.<br /> <br /> The quarried limestone headland offers over thirty well-equipped sport routes with grades ranging from Fr.4 to Fr.7a+.<br /> <br /> The main crag is (virtually) non-tidal but approachable 2 hours after high tide. The first 8 routes, and the shorter ones on the right, could be climbed at high tide if you are prepared to risk waiting for the ebb.<br /> <br /> The sun moves onto the crag mid to late afternoon (faces NW) and so it can be cold and slippery in the shade (similar to [[Witches Point]]). The east side of the crag which had fewer routes and is more restricted by tidal conditions receives morning sun. It can be approached by a boulder hop/traverse at lowish tide or abseil from the easily gained ledges above. At low tide(not neaps) walk around easily along the beach from either the bay or Pendine Beach<br /> <br /> There can be seepage after prolonged heavy rain. No midges!!!<br /> <br /> ==Directions==<br /> From [[wikipedia:Amroth,_Pembrokeshire|Amroth]], travel east towards Pendine passing Marros Church. After 4 miles (just before the ''Green Bridge Inn'') and at the bottom of the hill is a sneaky right-hand turn. Take this turn down a rough unmade road which leads past a caravan park on the left to the cove (1 mile). The crag is located on the left-hand (E) side of the beach.<br /> <br /> With the opening of a new fast cut it may be quicker to approach from [[wikipedia:Red Roses|Red Roses]] through lanes (consult a map or talking halfwit) taking a right turn to arrive at ''The Green Bridge Inn'' then.....sneaky left turn.<br /> <br /> ==Map==<br /> {{#display_points:<br /> {{Googlemap}}<br /> |zoom=16<br /> |height=400<br /> |center=51.737660, -4.569089<br /> |service=openlayers<br /> |layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap, bing, google<br /> |controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher, mouseposition<br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==The Routes==<br /> [[Image:Morfa topo.jpg|700px|thumb|right|'''Morfa Bychan''']]<br /> ''Described from left to right.''<br /> #'''Dish The Dirt - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Tricky bulges to start, eases above. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Less Is More - Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard throughout, aim for the short arete. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''More Than Enough - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;An exercise in stamina, good stuff. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''More More More - Fr.7a'''&lt;br&gt;Overhanging with a tough middle bit. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Moreland - Fr.7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;More stamina climbing with a mid-height hanging corner. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burn After Reading - Fr.6c+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Good climbing with an amenable finish. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Morfa Morfa Morfa - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;Hard lower bulge, good rest below final overlap. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Listing Badly - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;Hard to start, even harder to finish. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wreckage - Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard start easing then vast reach at top. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''She's Slipping Away - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;Butch start, tricky finish. Can be wet at the start. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Credit Squeeze - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;A jewel of a route, deceptively pumpy at the top. The starting corner by the block sometimes damp. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Pinch Is On - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;A direct finish to ''Credit Squeeze'', upgraded due to loss of hold at the last bolt. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Selling Short - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;A fine companion to ''Credit Squeeze'' breaking right after the common corner. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Tidal Rush - Fr.6c+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Start off the block. A route of three parts; good moves over the roof lead to two technical bulges with a good rest before each. 15m.[[Image:Morfa action.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Climbers on ''Selling Short'' and ''Asset Manager'']]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Asset Manager - Fr.6c **'''&lt;br&gt;One of the crag's best. Technical wall climbing which eases above half height. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Heading South - Fr.6a *'''&lt;br&gt;The enjoyable shallow groove system. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Insider Dealer - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Easy approach leads to a very hard sequence near the top. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bull Market - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Hardest at the top break. 12m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''The short routes off the ledge are non-tidal (usually) and it is possible to scramble out right to escape (painfully) up the fisherperson's path through the gorse. This leads to the top of the headland and the coastal path hence back to the car park.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crash and Dash - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;First of the routes on the short wall off the ledge. 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pump And Dump - Fr.6a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard from the word go! 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Toxic Assets - Fr.4+'''&lt;br&gt;Handy if waiting out the tide. 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Green Shoots Of Recovery - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt; The arete, not as easy as it looks big boy(person). 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Sunny Side===<br /> [[Image:Sunny_side.jpg|'''Sunny Side'''|500px|thumb]]<br /> [[Image:Morfa_pano.jpg|'''Morfa Panorama'''|800px|thumb]]<br /> Further east and more tidal, if stranded by the tide escape can be made via a faint thorny aforementioned fisherperson's path through the gorse (careful of your designer down jacket it's not fit for purpose in blackthorn scrub at 50m above sea level).<br /> #'''The Golden String - Fr.5+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Amusing enclosed corner then out on the pillar to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Noah's Arse - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt; Easily up the wall until it steepens move R to bealy shared with Knee Jerk.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Knee Jerk - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Gain the ledge then flail manfully onto the top wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''PROJECT'''&lt;br&gt;First wall often greasy,crux crack through roof above big break often drips.Probably already stolen.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lucas Numbers - Fr.6c *'''&lt;br&gt;Awkward groove, on the left of the prominent arete, and roof above. 13m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bonacci's Sequence - Fr.7b*'''&lt;br&gt;Steep, hangers. 13m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''All About Nothing - Fr.6a **'''&lt;br&gt;Short crack, undercut flake leading to juggy break and final pull over roof. All good stuff. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Get Out Claws - Fr.2'''&lt;br&gt;The staircase leading to the ledge,finish steeply or slope off right if carrying a rucsac.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Zero Inclination - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Rib and v-groove above ledge. Not as easy as it looks, jumbo staple at crux. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recurring Nightmare - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Short stapled wall leads to ledge of following route and shared ring. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Question Of Rabbits - Fr 6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Start on the L of arete mve into centre of wall then join other lines at ledge. 14m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''My Slice Of Pie - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt; The arete leading to the ledge finishing at a stunning ring L.O. in the groove.Easy to top out so makes a handy escape route if you want to extend your stay after tidal cut off. 14m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sad Little Nutter - HVS, 5a'''&lt;br&gt;Short thin crack stepping left into previous but without clipping any bolts and topping out of course.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Off At A Tangent - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall R of thin crack, climbed direct without recourse to the crack or it's nuts. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smart Keas - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt; Start up the narrow sidewall then gain the arete with a tricky move to reach the ledge. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Daft Nutter - HVS, 5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Obvious narrow crack taking the pillar, special dispensation received to use wires on the cheap. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''' You Sane Bolter - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Right side of pillar to ring belay. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolus Feed - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging pillar steepens at top, some may find this hard to swallow but hey this is Carmarthen, enjoy! 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Zero Zawn===<br /> Routes 4,5 and 6 start as for ''Turing’s Sum'', then scuttle off left at the first bolt.(Turing's Backdoor Entry) There are bolts in place for direct starts, but they’ve never been dry.The ledges they all converge from could be gained by abseil from the grassy ledge above(2 x10mm bolts in place,bring your own spanner and hangers.)giving mid tide access.<br /> #'''Nil By Mouth - Fr.6a *'''&lt;br&gt;Deceptive, tricky start and finish at L side of zawn entrance. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Continued Nursing Care - Fr.6a+'''&lt;br&gt;Short lived difficulties in the gloom on L side of the zawn. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''P.E.G Feed - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Groove to R joining previous. 13m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Labrynthitis-PROJECT'''&lt;br&gt;PROJECT. Buried deep in the gloom and dizzying heights of the L side of the zawn. Awaiting heatwave to dry.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Quest For The Origins Of-The Place Holder Notation - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;Excellent climbing above the hideous barnacled entry groove which is best avoided by taking Turing's back door entry. (Fr 6b)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Disraeli's Curl - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;After barnacle start groove line above. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchener's Nabla - Fr.7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Central line.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turing's Sum - Fr.6c+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Was formerley right hand line.Bolt missing at mid height.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blank Dark Thirty - Fr 6b**'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging shelved groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Joys Of A Tethered Goat - Fr 6b**'''&lt;br&gt;Start up pockets just L of Central Integrator then move left(big BR's) to join Blank Dark 30 at the shelf.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Central Integrator - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Groove at entrance to R side of zawn. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dismal Differentiator - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Tricky deceptive layback then easily to belay of previous, two skinflint threads. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Napier's Bones - Fr 6a *'''&lt;br&gt;Short pillar on right side of zawn with single ring lower off.13.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Trollers Wall===<br /> [[Image:Trollers_wall.jpg|right|800px|thumb|[[#Trollers Wall|Trollers Wall]]]]<br /> The zawn opens into a ledgy wall leading to the point with some pleasant sunny trad routes.<br /> <br /> One of the first areas to be developed mainly to gain access to the top of the crag to seek out abseil points. Good quality limestone and copious cheap re-usable protection make this a must for aspirant &quot;trad climbers&quot;.<br /> #'''Cinders Shall Not Go To The Ball - H.Severe'''&lt;br&gt;Romp up the cracks exiting on the right of the short steep wall. Prolong the &quot;adventure&quot; with the 1hr fight through blackthorn and walk back to your floating rucsac OR abseil off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Del Boy Dallies With The Trolls - V.Diff'''&lt;br&gt;From the same ledge gain and take the obvious diagonal crack-descent options as per previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Post Code Lottery - H.Sev 4b'''&lt;br&gt;The easy rib and steeper wall above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Troll Hop - Diff '''&lt;br&gt;Easy scramble to gain ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Pendine Beach===<br /> [[Image:Pendine beach point.jpg|800px|thumb|right]]<br /> [[Image:Pendine right.jpg|800px|thumb|right]]<br /> [[Image:Pendine.jpg||800px|thumb|right]]<br /> Approach easily along the sand at low (non neap) tides but be aware of letting yourself in for a wade out at neaps. (Look at tide tables and use common sense).<br /> <br /> ''Right at The Point''<br /> #'''Straight As A Dai - Fr. 6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Stiff barnacle crimping then immaculate rock to the belay. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Deviator - Fr. 6b **'''&lt;br&gt;May seem stiff if onsighting but a little lateral shirking will get you up this. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;'' <br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt; The crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''closed project'''&lt;br&gt;Rubbly looking pilar/crack recently bolted.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''''Before Planck's Time - Fr. 7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Steep hanging groove belay above veggie band.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gladstone's Deficit Fr 7b'''&lt;br&gt;R hand branch of bifurcating line over roof&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seven Thirty At Arras - Fr. 7b **'''&lt;br&gt;Diagonal crack joining the final wall of Badgers Out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Quantum Of Lydon's Future - Fr. 7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt; Fierce undercutting leads to baffling crux then final romp over the roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Badger's Out! - Fr. 7a+**'''&lt;br&gt;Bottomless chimney and groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vera Figner's Lost List - Fr. 7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Above the large boulders.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Jacky Fisher's Phobia - Fr. 6c+'''&lt;br&gt;Common start with previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Over to the right on a high non tidal platform(theory untested) just behind some excellent bouldering blocs are a number of ever dry sunny routes. The first wall is bounded on the right by two striking groove lines''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Table Scraps - Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;Step off the blocs or do some caving to reach floor approach.Follow the red/green crust of dried lichen/moss L of the crack.New belay will be installed on the left in the future)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Give The Dog A Bone - Fr 5'''&lt;br&gt;Start just right of the block on the arete then move onto the L of the arete to shared belay with following.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Salty Dog- Fr 5+'''&lt;br&gt; Excellent first route on the wall proper.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bitch - Fr 6b '''&lt;br&gt; The next route right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Snuffle Hound - Fr 6b+*''' &lt;br&gt; Tricky moves to gain the slab and exit it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Unleashed- Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Good 3D climbing&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''3D Dog - Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; More 3 D climbing to shared belay with previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Soapy Dahl - Fr 6b'''* &lt;br&gt;Tough bridging up the obvious groove line.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Man Machine - Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Bridging then baffling move past the bulge&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''A few metres right are the following''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sophie's Wit Tank - Fr 6b+ '''&lt;br&gt;Thin strenuous crack to start, crux thin layback above, pumpy.First bolt high(at present).Until lower one placed use a clip stick.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Perfect Prude - Fr 6b+ '''&lt;br&gt;Bridging corner left of fist crack to shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stroke Of Good Luck *'''&lt;br&gt;The short arete,keeping to the arete and left wall at all times.Single ring LO or continue to LO of Rubble Escalator(hole drilled at LO so feel free to buy your own bolt and put it in.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Rubble Escalator- Fr 5'''&lt;br&gt; Obvious rubbly chimney.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blood Spunker Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Crack then R wall of rubble chimney and hand traverse to achieve belay ledge off to R.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt;Recently bolted R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spunk Welder Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt; Steep crack(2 uber staples )then tricky move to gain a slabby wall to same LO as previous two routes.Best seconded to clean quickdraws.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mary Hinge's Close Shave - Fr. 6b '''&lt;br&gt;Steep groove/corner the shared belay of following on the right.Krab on 2nd bolt to stop big swing when lowering and cleaning.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nothing In It - Fr. 6b'''&lt;br&gt;Groove /crack left of arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''McGoohan Loses Six - Fr. 6c+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Arete, tricky to 3rd bolt, eases above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Amount Of Fun To Be Had By A Bear With A Broken Baculum - Fr. 6a '''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of previous to Shared LO on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==First Ascents==<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas M.Hirst''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Sunny Side'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 26.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore A.Rosier.R Mcallister 27.07.2014.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 27.07.2014.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 05.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo 28.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 07.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 18.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 18.04.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Zero Zawn'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 06.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 27.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 06.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.T Jones 05.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips N.O'Neill 28.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips G.Ashmore 27.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 15.04.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 16.04.2104''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 08.02.2015&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Trollers Wall'''<br /> #''Nick O'Neill R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Nick O'Neill R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo 28.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Pendine Beach'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore 00.06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore D.Emanuel''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 20.05.2015.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore D.Emanuel 25.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 22.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.Jones 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.Jones 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas H.Gibson G.Gibson 06.2015.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Hazel Gibson G.Gibson R.Thomas 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.G''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.G''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson H.Gibson 00.06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 14.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips 24.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore18.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'' D.Emanuel R.Phillips 24.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''proj''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Emanuel R.Phillips 24.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 20.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 21.02.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 17.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore ET Jones 22.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Morfa_Bychan&diff=17549 2015-06-25T09:03:48Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Carmarthenshire]]<br /> <br /> [[Contents]]<br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> Morfa is a jewel of a crag located in a small easily accessible cove west of [[wikipedia:Pendine|Pendine]]. The sandy bay, possibility of wild camping, fishing and proximity to the pub all add to its appeal.<br /> <br /> The quarried limestone headland offers over thirty well-equipped sport routes with grades ranging from Fr.4 to Fr.7a+.<br /> <br /> The main crag is (virtually) non-tidal but approachable 2 hours after high tide. The first 8 routes, and the shorter ones on the right, could be climbed at high tide if you are prepared to risk waiting for the ebb.<br /> <br /> The sun moves onto the crag mid to late afternoon (faces NW) and so it can be cold and slippery in the shade (similar to [[Witches Point]]). The east side of the crag which had fewer routes and is more restricted by tidal conditions receives morning sun. It can be approached by a boulder hop/traverse at lowish tide or abseil from the easily gained ledges above. At low tide(not neaps) walk around easily along the beach from either the bay or Pendine Beach<br /> <br /> There can be seepage after prolonged heavy rain. No midges!!!<br /> <br /> ==Directions==<br /> From [[wikipedia:Amroth,_Pembrokeshire|Amroth]], travel east towards Pendine passing Marros Church. After 4 miles (just before the ''Green Bridge Inn'') and at the bottom of the hill is a sneaky right-hand turn. Take this turn down a rough unmade road which leads past a caravan park on the left to the cove (1 mile). The crag is located on the left-hand (E) side of the beach.<br /> <br /> With the opening of a new fast cut it may be quicker to approach from [[wikipedia:Red Roses|Red Roses]] through lanes (consult a map or talking halfwit) taking a right turn to arrive at ''The Green Bridge Inn'' then.....sneaky left turn.<br /> <br /> ==Map==<br /> {{#display_points:<br /> {{Googlemap}}<br /> |zoom=16<br /> |height=400<br /> |center=51.737660, -4.569089<br /> |service=openlayers<br /> |layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap, bing, google<br /> |controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher, mouseposition<br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==The Routes==<br /> [[Image:Morfa topo.jpg|700px|thumb|right|'''Morfa Bychan''']]<br /> ''Described from left to right.''<br /> #'''Dish The Dirt - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;Tricky bulges to start, eases above. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Less Is More - Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard throughout, aim for the short arete. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''More Than Enough - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;An exercise in stamina, good stuff. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''More More More - Fr.7a'''&lt;br&gt;Overhanging with a tough middle bit. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Moreland - Fr.7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;More stamina climbing with a mid-height hanging corner. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burn After Reading - Fr.6c+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Good climbing with an amenable finish. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Morfa Morfa Morfa - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;Hard lower bulge, good rest below final overlap. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Listing Badly - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;Hard to start, even harder to finish. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wreckage - Fr.7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard start easing then vast reach at top. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''She's Slipping Away - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;Butch start, tricky finish. Can be wet at the start. 20m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Credit Squeeze - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;A jewel of a route, deceptively pumpy at the top. The starting corner by the block sometimes damp. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Pinch Is On - Fr.7a *'''&lt;br&gt;A direct finish to ''Credit Squeeze'', upgraded due to loss of hold at the last bolt. 18m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Selling Short - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;A fine companion to ''Credit Squeeze'' breaking right after the common corner. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Tidal Rush - Fr.6c+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Start off the block. A route of three parts; good moves over the roof lead to two technical bulges with a good rest before each. 15m.[[Image:Morfa action.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Climbers on ''Selling Short'' and ''Asset Manager'']]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Asset Manager - Fr.6c **'''&lt;br&gt;One of the crag's best. Technical wall climbing which eases above half height. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Heading South - Fr.6a *'''&lt;br&gt;The enjoyable shallow groove system. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Insider Dealer - Fr.6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Easy approach leads to a very hard sequence near the top. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bull Market - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Hardest at the top break. 12m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''The short routes off the ledge are non-tidal (usually) and it is possible to scramble out right to escape (painfully) up the fisherperson's path through the gorse. This leads to the top of the headland and the coastal path hence back to the car park.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crash and Dash - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;First of the routes on the short wall off the ledge. 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pump And Dump - Fr.6a+'''&lt;br&gt;Hard from the word go! 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Toxic Assets - Fr.4+'''&lt;br&gt;Handy if waiting out the tide. 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Green Shoots Of Recovery - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt; The arete, not as easy as it looks big boy(person). 10m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===The Sunny Side===<br /> [[Image:Sunny_side.jpg|'''Sunny Side'''|500px|thumb]]<br /> [[Image:Morfa_pano.jpg|'''Morfa Panorama'''|800px|thumb]]<br /> Further east and more tidal, if stranded by the tide escape can be made via a faint thorny aforementioned fisherperson's path through the gorse (careful of your designer down jacket it's not fit for purpose in blackthorn scrub at 50m above sea level).<br /> #'''The Golden String - Fr.5+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Amusing enclosed corner then out on the pillar to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Noah's Arse - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt; Easily up the wall until it steepens move R to bealy shared with Knee Jerk.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Knee Jerk - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Gain the ledge then flail manfully onto the top wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''PROJECT'''&lt;br&gt;First wall often greasy,crux crack through roof above big break often drips.Probably already stolen.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lucas Numbers - Fr.6c *'''&lt;br&gt;Awkward groove, on the left of the prominent arete, and roof above. 13m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bonacci's Sequence - Fr.7b*'''&lt;br&gt;Steep, hangers. 13m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''All About Nothing - Fr.6a **'''&lt;br&gt;Short crack, undercut flake leading to juggy break and final pull over roof. All good stuff. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Get Out Claws - Fr.2'''&lt;br&gt;The staircase leading to the ledge,finish steeply or slope off right if carrying a rucsac.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Zero Inclination - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Rib and v-groove above ledge. Not as easy as it looks, jumbo staple at crux. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recurring Nightmare - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Short stapled wall leads to ledge of following route and shared ring. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Question Of Rabbits - Fr 6b+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Start on the L of arete mve into centre of wall then join other lines at ledge. 14m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''My Slice Of Pie - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt; The arete leading to the ledge finishing at a stunning ring L.O. in the groove.Easy to top out so makes a handy escape route if you want to extend your stay after tidal cut off. 14m. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sad Little Nutter - HVS, 5a'''&lt;br&gt;Short thin crack stepping left into previous but without clipping any bolts and topping out of course.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Off At A Tangent - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall R of thin crack, climbed direct without recourse to the crack or it's nuts. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smart Keas - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt; Start up the narrow sidewall then gain the arete with a tricky move to reach the ledge. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Daft Nutter - HVS, 5b *'''&lt;br&gt;Obvious narrow crack taking the pillar, special dispensation received to use wires on the cheap. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''' You Sane Bolter - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Right side of pillar to ring belay. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolus Feed - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging pillar steepens at top, some may find this hard to swallow but hey this is Carmarthen, enjoy! 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Zero Zawn===<br /> Routes 4,5 and 6 start as for ''Turing’s Sum'', then scuttle off left at the first bolt.(Turing's Backdoor Entry) There are bolts in place for direct starts, but they’ve never been dry.The ledges they all converge from could be gained by abseil from the grassy ledge above(2 x10mm bolts in place,bring your own spanner and hangers.)giving mid tide access.<br /> #'''Nil By Mouth - Fr.6a *'''&lt;br&gt;Deceptive, tricky start and finish at L side of zawn entrance. 14m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Continued Nursing Care - Fr.6a+'''&lt;br&gt;Short lived difficulties in the gloom on L side of the zawn. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''P.E.G Feed - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Groove to R joining previous. 13m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Labrynthitis-PROJECT'''&lt;br&gt;PROJECT. Buried deep in the gloom and dizzying heights of the L side of the zawn. Awaiting heatwave to dry.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Quest For The Origins Of-The Place Holder Notation - Fr.6b+ ***'''&lt;br&gt;Excellent climbing above the hideous barnacled entry groove which is best avoided by taking Turing's back door entry. (Fr 6b)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Disraeli's Curl - Fr.7a **'''&lt;br&gt;After barnacle start groove line above. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchener's Nabla - Fr.7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Central line.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turing's Sum - Fr.6c+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Was formerley right hand line.Bolt missing at mid height.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blank Dark Thirty - Fr 6b**'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging shelved groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Joys Of A Tethered Goat - Fr 6b**'''&lt;br&gt;Start up pockets just L of Central Integrator then move left(big BR's) to join Blank Dark 30 at the shelf.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Central Integrator - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Groove at entrance to R side of zawn. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dismal Differentiator - Fr.6a+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Tricky deceptive layback then easily to belay of previous, two skinflint threads. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Napier's Bones - Fr 6a *'''&lt;br&gt;Short pillar on right side of zawn with single ring lower off.13.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Trollers Wall===<br /> [[Image:Trollers_wall.jpg|right|800px|thumb|[[#Trollers Wall|Trollers Wall]]]]<br /> The zawn opens into a ledgy wall leading to the point with some pleasant sunny trad routes.<br /> <br /> One of the first areas to be developed mainly to gain access to the top of the crag to seek out abseil points. Good quality limestone and copious cheap re-usable protection make this a must for aspirant &quot;trad climbers&quot;.<br /> #'''Cinders Shall Not Go To The Ball - H.Severe'''&lt;br&gt;Romp up the cracks exiting on the right of the short steep wall. Prolong the &quot;adventure&quot; with the 1hr fight through blackthorn and walk back to your floating rucsac OR abseil off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Del Boy Dallies With The Trolls - V.Diff'''&lt;br&gt;From the same ledge gain and take the obvious diagonal crack-descent options as per previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Post Code Lottery - H.Sev 4b'''&lt;br&gt;The easy rib and steeper wall above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Troll Hop - Diff '''&lt;br&gt;Easy scramble to gain ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Pendine Beach===<br /> [[Image:Pendine beach point.jpg|800px|thumb|right]]<br /> [[Image:Pendine right.jpg|800px|thumb|right]]<br /> [[Image:Pendine.jpg||800px|thumb|right]]<br /> Approach easily along the sand at low (non neap) tides but be aware of letting yourself in for a wade out at neaps. (Look at tide tables and use common sense).<br /> <br /> ''Right at The Point''<br /> #'''Straight As A Dai - Fr. 6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Stiff barnacle crimping then immaculate rock to the belay. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Deviator - Fr. 6b **'''&lt;br&gt;May seem stiff if onsighting but a little lateral shirking will get you up this. 15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;'' <br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt; The crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''closed project'''&lt;br&gt;Rubbly looking pilar/crack recently bolted.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''''Before Planck's Time - Fr. 7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt;Steep hanging groove belay above veggie band.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gladstone's Deficit Fr 7b'''&lt;br&gt;R hand branch of bifurcating line over roof&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seven Thirty At Arras - Fr. 7b **'''&lt;br&gt;Diagonal crack joining the final wall of Badgers Out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Quantum Of Lydon's Future - Fr. 7a+ **'''&lt;br&gt; Fierce undercutting leads to baffling crux then final romp over the roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Badger's Out! - Fr. 7a+**'''&lt;br&gt;Bottomless chimney and groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vera Figner's Lost List - Fr. 7a+'''&lt;br&gt;Above the large boulders.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Jacky Fisher's Phobia - Fr. 6c+'''&lt;br&gt;Common start with previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Over to the right on a high non tidal platform(theory untested) just behind some excellent bouldering blocs are a number of ever dry sunny routes. The first wall is bounded on the right by two striking groove lines''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Table Scraps - Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;Step off the blocs or do some caving to reach floor approach.Follow the red/green crust of dried lichen/moss L of the crack.New belay will be installed on the left in the future)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Give The Dog A Bone - Fr 5'''&lt;br&gt;Start just right of the block on the arete then move onto the L of the arete to shared belay with following.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Salty Dog- Fr 5+'''&lt;br&gt; Excellent first route on the wall proper.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bitch - Fr 6b '''&lt;br&gt; The next route right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Snuffle Hound - Fr 6b+*''' &lt;br&gt; Tricky moves to gain the slab and exit it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Unleashed- Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Good 3D climbing&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''3D Dog - Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; More 3 D climbing to shared belay with previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Soapy Dahl - Fr 6b'''* &lt;br&gt;Tough bridging up the obvious groove line.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Man Machine - Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Bridging then baffling move past the bulge&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''A few metres right are the following''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sophie's Wit Tank - Fr 6b+ '''&lt;br&gt;Thin strenuous crack to start, crux thin layback above, pumpy.First bolt high(at present).Until lower one placed use a clip stick.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Perfect Prude - Fr 6b+ '''&lt;br&gt;Bridging corner left of fist crack to shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stroke Of Good Luck *'''&lt;br&gt;The short arete,keeping to the arete and left wall at all times.Single ring LO or continue to LO of Rubble Escalator(hole drilled at LO so feel free to buy your own bolt and put it in.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Rubble Escalator- Fr 5'''&lt;br&gt; Obvious rubbly chimney.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blood Spunker Fr 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Crack then R wall of rubble chimney, belay off to R.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Closed Project'''&lt;br&gt;Recently bolted R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spunk Welder Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt; Steep crack(2 uber staples )then tricky move to gain a slabby wall to same LO as previous two routes.Best seconded to clean quickdraws.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mary Hinge's Close Shave - Fr. 6b '''&lt;br&gt;Steep groove/corner the shared belay of following on the right.Krab on 2nd bolt to stop big swing when lowering and cleaning.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nothing In It - Fr. 6b'''&lt;br&gt;Groove /crack left of arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''McGoohan Loses Six - Fr. 6c+ *'''&lt;br&gt;Arete, tricky to 3rd bolt, eases above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Amount Of Fun To Be Had By A Bear With A Broken Baculum - Fr. 6a '''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of previous to Shared LO on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==First Ascents==<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas M.Hirst''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Sunny Side'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 26.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore A.Rosier.R Mcallister 27.07.2014.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 27.07.2014.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 05.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo 28.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 07.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 18.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 18.04.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Zero Zawn'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 06.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 31.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 27.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 06.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.T Jones 05.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.T Jones 06.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips N.O'Neill 28.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips G.Ashmore 27.05.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 15.04.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 16.04.2104''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 08.02.2015&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Trollers Wall'''<br /> #''Nick O'Neill R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Nick O'Neill R.Thomas''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo 28.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas solo''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Pendine Beach'''<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore 00.06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore D.Emanuel''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore R.Thomas 20.05.2015.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore D.Emanuel 25.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 22.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.Jones 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore E.Jones 2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas H.Gibson G.Gibson 06.2015.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Hazel Gibson G.Gibson R.Thomas 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Gibson 06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.G''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.G''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''GG''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Gibson H.Gibson 00.06.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 14.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas R.Phillips 24.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore18.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'' D.Emanuel R.Phillips 24.06.2015 ''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''proj''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Emanuel R.Phillips 24.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 20.05.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore E.T Jones 21.02.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 17.07.2014''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore ET Jones 22.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Llantrisant_Drugs_Cliff&diff=17476 2015-06-08T14:12:54Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>==PREAMBLE==<br /> A very sheltered and fast drying little crag, albeit of somewhat limited scope. Worth a visit in conjunction with [[Coed Ely|Coedely]]<br /> or [[Trebanog]]. Now completely re-bolted on a point for point basis.<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> This is the small quarry, the top of which is just visible to the east of the A4119 on Llantrisant Common. Although there<br /> is an easier way in through the housing estate, this is harder to describe, so take the described approach on your first<br /> visit, and walk out right via the path to the estate to find the best way for any subsequent visits. Park in the superstore<br /> complex and walk back up and turn down the A4119 (Rhondda) road. Walk down this for 1/4 mile to just before a<br /> roundabout. Cross the road (E6 in bad traffic) to a footpath sign by a tarmac area. Follow the zig zag path up the hill<br /> to reach the quarry in 5 minutes.<br /> [[Image:Llantrisant.jpg|center|thumb|800px]]<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> #'''Something To Do With Drugs''' - 12m, E2,5c, Fr6a+&lt;br&gt;The left-hand bolt line in the quarry.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''After Effect'''- 9m, E1,6a, Fr6b+&lt;br&gt;The slab to the right has a hard start, but is easy thereafter.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Drugs Make You Fall Off''' - 12m, E2,6a, Fr6b+&lt;br&gt;As for ''After Effect'' to the second BR, then move left to the second BR on ''Something To Do With Drugs'', finishing as for that route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Virgo Intactae''' - 9m, HVS,5a, Fr5 *&lt;br&gt;The crack at the right hand side of the face. 2PRs, BB.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ant Hill Mob''' - 11m, E1,5c, Fr6a+&lt;br&gt;A route up the arete to the right, climbed on its right hand side. 2BRs, PR. There is no lower off and the PR is in cheese, so it is better to climb back down.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Unnamed''' - 9m, VS,4a&lt;br&gt;The wall in the bay to the right. Quite loose and muddy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crackola''' - 9m, VS,4a&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> &lt;font=size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> #Llantrisant Deal Team - ''1991''<br /> #Llantrisant Deal Team - ''1991''<br /> #Llantrisant Deal Team - ''1991''<br /> #Llantrisant Deal Team - ''1991''<br /> #The Ant Hill Mob - ''1992''<br /> #Llantrisant Deal Team - ''1991''<br /> #M.Crocker solo - ''25.10.2000''<br /> &lt;/font&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Talk:Llantrisant_Drugs_Cliff&diff=17319 2015-05-06T21:15:40Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>Do we have a long/lat or high-res grid ref for this place? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 14:10, 5 April 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> I have never been able to find it to confirm the GR is correct. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 14:16, 5 April 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> == any volunteers ==<br /> <br /> The BMC/SWBF will shortly make avaiable bolts to regear this small shelterd crag that could be a good addition to the &quot;winter circuit&quot; Any one prepared to receive the box of bolts and get on with it. It's in the Trebanog/Coed Ely cluster near Llantrisant--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] ([[User talk:Roy thomas|talk]]) 16:00, 29 July 2013 (BST)<br /> <br /> ==Lower-offs fit for a king==<br /> <br /> Retro bolting has commenced on a point for point basis. 06/05/2015</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Llwynypia&diff=17317 2015-05-04T22:21:10Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Contents]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''GR993938'''<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> A reasonably good crag in a nice setting. The main section of the quarry is on the far side of the obvious pool, but there are some buttresses and a small section about 100m left of the entrance to the complex. The right-hand end has a lot of potential for new routes including what looks like a couple of old aid routes (no details). Some 25 routes are alluded to in the 1973 SWMC guide, but details seem to have been lost, they were mostly severe or below, rambling and are now mostly overgrown.<br /> <br /> The crag is undergoing at face lift at present so please be patient and avoid stealing projects or ''in situ'' cleaning ropes and carabiners. Routes will be reported on the Wiki as they are cleaned/regeared/climbed on a daily basis so please keep in touch to avoid problems.<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> [[image:Llwynapia2.jpg|center|700px|thumb]]<br /> Go past Tonypandy via the A41199(Gained from the LLantrisant junction on the M4)Pass Asda to a steep right hand bend(traffic lights), with the prominent new Magistrates Court on the left. Turn left in front of the court and park on the road(or the train station/Asda carpark to avoid upsetting residents). Go into the woods on the right via a gate and follow the obvious track up the hill for about 300m to enter the quarry. If on foot, the railway station is right next to the court building.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> Located about 100m left of the path leading to the quarry entrance.<br /> <br /> #'''Led Astray''' 9m E3,6a&lt;br&gt;At the far end of the left section are two buttresses forming a right-angled bay. This is the central face of the left-hand buttress, passing 2 stacked PRs. Regeared 2 bolts Fr 6c+.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ylide''' 9m E1,5c&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right of ''Led Astray'' climbed on the left side throughout.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nowhere Man''' 8m HVS,5b&lt;br&gt;The same arete climbed on the right side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Perverted By Language''' 9m E4,6c Fr7b&lt;br&gt;The right-hand buttress leans slightly. At its left end is a faint groove. Climb this desperately past a BR and PR. Blood blisters are compulsory.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Siberian Santa''' ??? Fr 7b *&lt;br&gt;Short wall a few metres R. 3BR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project'''&lt;br&gt;Pockety wall please respect.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project'''&lt;br&gt; Arete,please respect&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Punk On Ronny''' Fr 6a&lt;br&gt;1 m L of the fence. 5m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nick's New Route''' VS 4b&lt;br&gt;The flaky crack by the fence. 5m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nasty Little Squirter''' HVS 5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the rooflet and high groove. PR Left of the stream gushing down the chimney/crack&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ooze A Bad Boy Then''' HS&lt;br&gt;Just right of the gusher, the crack to a large tree. 5m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> The [[#Main Section|Main Section]] is dominated by a pool. Routes can be reached by walking over the small dam wall. Behind the dam is an obvious buttress and a diagonal terrace at a higher level.<br /> <br /> ''Just left of the pool is a wall with......''<br /> #'''Ed...'''8m MVS 4c&lt;br&gt;Crack and arete (PR) to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''It Had To Happen''' 12m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;L hand sport line to chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolts On Grit''' 11m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt; Sport line L of ''Bernard's Balls Up''. String around twig and bolt LO. (Stolen awaiting replacement)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bernard’s Balls Up''' 12m E3,6a *&lt;br&gt; The wall immediately left of the obvious offwidth behind the pool, PR, finishing up a flake crack 1m below the top. A good fingery number.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Maz''' 26m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The obvious offwidth and the overgrown corner above and left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Greet Whoppin Jugs''' 12m E4,6b&lt;br&gt; To the right of ''Maz'' and directly above the dam is an obvious arete. Climb this to a PR, then step left and climb the technical upper slab.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bla bla Casino Lie''' Fr7a+&lt;br&gt;Thin moves on left of pillar gain a ledge then rejoin the technical uppert slab of''Greet Whoppin Jugs'' Lower off a tree.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calling The Shots''' 12m E4,5c **&lt;br&gt; The excellent arete above the little dam. The PR on ''Greet Whoppin Jugs'' is not clipped at this grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Just to the right and directly above the pool is another wall and undercut block.''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Anzac Day ''' FR 4+ &lt;br&gt; Some moss remains still but the dust will settle.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Well Heeled''' 12m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The crack in the centre of the slab above the pool and R of the arete of ''Calling The Shots''. Re-cleaned and brushed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Talking Turkey''' Fr 6a&lt;br&gt;Nice climbing once the rubbly groove is exited. Shares LO with ''Well Heeled''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cold Turkey''' Fr 5&lt;br&gt;Left side of undercut block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fed Up Of Turkey''' Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;The R arete of the block traversing L to join the shared LO of ''Cold Turkey''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Above this wall is a terrace with a few large trees''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Scramble easily up the leaf litter (situ rope to assist if not already stolen)''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bohlers Angle Reduction'''Fr 6a *&lt;br&gt;A few metres R of the brambly corner, nice and slabby except for the last tricky move to the shared L.O&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sub Talar Depression'''Fr 6a+*&lt;br&gt;Delightful slab climbing,more consistent than previous but with an easier finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calcanium Crunch **''' E3 5c&lt;br&gt;Bold climbing up the slab to the big horizontal tree LO. Peg replaced and cleaned,retro &quot;specialed&quot; for the unique 80's experience.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''Above and left of the ''Bernards Balls Up'' wall is a similar tree filled terrace''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bathtime''' VS 4c&lt;br&gt; The uncleaned corner crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Retrogenius''' Fr 6b&lt;br&gt; Left-most stapled route un relentless crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stimulation Ovulator......''' Fr 4&lt;br&gt; (....like, for example, cats) Up the steps to the arete. Then curse the clown who put the lower-off so far to the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''To the right at the lowest level the rambling overgrown part of the quarry is located''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Free Wales Army''' 15m E1,5b *&lt;br&gt; The arete down to the right of ''Calcaneum Crunch'', starting on the left is better than it looks, PR. Hard for the grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The exact line of the next three routes is not known for sure.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Whatah''' 12m VD&lt;br&gt; The layback crack up the corner to the right of a small arete to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall, with a move out left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scream''' 12m S&lt;br&gt; To the left of ''Whatah'', climb the corner and fractured crack to the grass ledge on ''Whatah''. Take the crack at the back of the ledge to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Phil’s Arete''' 15m D&lt;br&gt; The arete to the right of ''Scream''. Poor, with loose rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Harbour Wall''' 15m S&lt;br&gt; The centre of the prominent red wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Alibi''' 15m E3 6a*&lt;br&gt; The central wall in the penultimate bay of the quarry. Excellent wall climbing leads to the high central crack of ''Bralibi''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Brawl''' 12m E3,6a*&lt;br&gt; The crack to the right direct then up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Gall''' Fr.6b&lt;br&gt; An easier variant of the previous, step R at the big jug to ledges then swing back left to finish up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bralibi *'''12m Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Crack on right then step L to central crack. Holds at top muddy and need cleaning. LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> #''E. Travers-Jones, A. Sharp, P. Lewis 16.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''S. Coles 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Lawrence 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore Dai Emanuel ?.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> #''Nick O'Neill R. Thomas 26.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker, R. Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore Dai Emanuel 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C. Evans, A. Jenkins, P.Green 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker, R. Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas N. O'neill 26.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas, M. Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas E.T. Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 29.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 29.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker, R. Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R. Thomas G.Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G. Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Llwynypia&diff=17295 2015-04-24T13:45:56Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Contents]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''GR993938'''<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> A reasonably good crag in a nice setting. The main section of the quarry is on the far side of the obvious pool, but there are some buttresses and a small section about 100m left of the entrance to the complex. The right-hand end has a lot of<br /> potential for new routes including what looks like a couple of old aid routes (no details). Some 25 routes are alluded to in the 1973 SWMC guide, but details seem to have been lost,they were mostly severe or below,rambling and are now mostly overgrown.<br /> The crag is undergoing at face lift at present so please be patient and avoid stealing projects or in situ cleaning ropes and carabiners.Routes will be reported on the Wikki as they are cleaned/regeared/climbed on a daily basis so please keep in touch to avoid problems.<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> Go through a via the A4119 or B4293, to a steep right hand bend, with the prominent new Magistrates Court on the left. Turn left in front of the court and park on the road. Go into the woods on the right via a gate and follow the obvious track up the hill for about 300m to enter the quarry. If on foot, the railway station is right next to the court building.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> Located about 100m left of the path leading to the quarry entrance.<br /> <br /> #'''Led Astray''' 9m E3,6a&lt;br&gt;At the far end of the left section are two buttresses forming a right-angled bay. This is the central face of the left-hand buttress, passing 2 stacked PRs.Regeared 2 bolts Fr 6c+.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ylide''' 9m E1,5c&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right of ''Led Astray'' climbed on the left side throughout.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nowhere Man''' 8m HVS,5b&lt;br&gt;The same arete climbed on the right side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Perverted By Language''' 9m E4,6c Fr7b&lt;br&gt;The right-hand buttress leans slightly. At its left end is a faint groove. Climb this desperately past a BR and PR. Blood blisters are compulsory.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Siberian Santa ??? Fr 7b*'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall a few metres R.3BR&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Punk On Ronny Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;0.69 m L of the fence.5.69m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nick's New Route VS 4b'''&lt;br&gt;The flaky crack by the fence.5.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nasty Little Squirter HVS 5a'''&lt;br&gt;Gain the rooflet and high groove.PR.Left of the stream gushing down the chimney/crack&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ooze A Bad Boy Then HS'''&lt;br&gt;Just right of the gusher,the crack to a large tree.5.69m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> The [[#Main Section|Main Section]] is dominated by a pool. Routes can be reached by walking over the small dam wall. Behind the dam is an obvious buttress and a diagonal terrace at a higher level.<br /> <br /> ''Just left of the pool is a wall with......''<br /> #'''It Had To Happen'''12m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;L hand sport line to chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolts On Grit'''11.69m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt; Sport line L of Bernard's Balls Up. String around twig and bolt LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bernard’s Balls Up''' 12m E3,6a *&lt;br&gt; The wall immediately left of the obvious offwidth behind the pool, PR, finishing up a flake crack 1m below the top. A good fingery number.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Maz''' 26m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The obvious offwidth and the overgrown corner above and left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Greet Whoppin Jugs''' 12m E4,6b&lt;br&gt; To the right of ''Maz'' and directly above the dam is an obvious arete. Climb this to a PR, then step left and climb the technical upper slab.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bla bla Casino Lie'''Fr7a+&lt;br&gt;Thin moves on left of pillar gain aledge then rejoin the technical uppert slab of''Greet Whoppin Jugs ''Lower off a tree .&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calling The Shots''' 12m E4,5c **&lt;br&gt; The excellent arete above the little dam. The PR on ''Greet Whoppin Jugs'' is not clipped at this grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Just to the right and directly above the pool is another wall and undercut block.''<br /> #'''Project'''&lt;br&gt; Still covered in moss cleaning delayed due to rope theft.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Well Heeled''' 12m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The crack in the centre of the slab above the pool and R of the arete of ''Calling The Shots''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Talking Turkey'''Fr 6a&lt;br&gt;Nice climbing once the rubbly groove is exited.Shares LO with''Well Heeled''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cold Turkey'''Fr 5&lt;br&gt;Left side of undercut block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fed Up Of Turkey'''Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;The R arete of the block traversing L to join the shared L.O of ''Cold Turkey''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Above this wall is a terrace with a few large trees''<br /> #'''Bathtime'''VS 4c&lt;br&gt; The uncleaned corner crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Retrogenius'''Fr 6b&lt;br&gt; Left-most stapled route un relentless crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Un-named'''Fr 4&lt;br&gt; Up the steps to the arete. Then curse the clown who put the lower-off so far to the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calcaneum Crunch''' 12m E2,5c *&lt;br&gt; Above ''Well Heeled'' is a terrace. This route climbs a faint groove in the right hand side of the slab, past a low PR which is the only gear. Committing and airy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Free Wales Army''' 15m E1,5b *&lt;br&gt; The arete down to the right of ''Calcaneum Crunch'', starting on the left is better than it looks, PR. Hard for the grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The exact line of the next three routes is not known for sure.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Whatah''' 12m VD&lt;br&gt; The layback crack up the corner to the right of a small arete to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall, with a move out left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scream''' 12m S&lt;br&gt; To the left of ''Whatah'', climb the corner and fractured crack to the grass ledge on Whatah. Take the crack at the back of the ledge to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Phil’s Arete''' 15m D&lt;br&gt; The arete to the right of Scream. Poor, with loose rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Harbour Wall''' 15m S&lt;br&gt; The centre of the prominent red wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Alibi''' 15m E2,5c&lt;br&gt; The central wall in the penultimate bay of the quarry.Excellent wall climbing leads to the high central crack of Bralibi.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Brawl''' 12m E3,6a&lt;br&gt; The crack to the right direct then up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Gall Fr6b'''&lt;br&gt; An easier variant of the previous ,step R at the big jug to ledges then swing back left to finish up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bralibi*'''12.69m Fr 6b+&lt;br&gt; Crack on right then step L to central crack. Holds at top muddy and need cleaning.LO&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> #''E.Travers-Jones, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''S.Coles 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Lawrence 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore Dai Emanuel ?.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas D.Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore Dai Emanuel 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Evans, A.Jenkins, P.Green 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T.Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D. Emanuel, G. Ashmore 19.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Llwynypia&diff=17294 2015-04-24T13:41:43Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Contents]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''GR993938'''<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> A reasonably good crag in a nice setting. The main section of the quarry is on the far side of the obvious pool, but there are some buttresses and a small section about 100m left of the entrance to the complex. The right-hand end has a lot of<br /> potential for new routes including what looks like a couple of old aid routes (no details). Some 25 routes are alluded to in the 1973 SWMC guide, but details seem to have been lost,they were mostly severe or below,rambling and are now mostly overgrown.<br /> The crag is undergoing at face lift at present so please be patient and avoid stealing projects or in situ cleaning ropes and carabiners.Routes will be reported on the Wikki as they are cleaned/regeared/climbed on a daily basis so please keep in touch to avoid problems.<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> Go through a via the A4119 or B4293, to a steep right hand bend, with the prominent new Magistrates Court on the left. Turn left in front of the court and park on the road. Go into the woods on the right via a gate and follow the obvious track up the hill for about 300m to enter the quarry. If on foot, the railway station is right next to the court building.<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> Located about 100m left of the path leading to the quarry entrance.<br /> <br /> #'''Led Astray''' 9m E3,6a&lt;br&gt;At the far end of the left section are two buttresses forming a right-angled bay. This is the central face of the left-hand buttress, passing 2 stacked PRs.Regeared 2 bolts Fr 6c+.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ylide''' 9m E1,5c&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right of ''Led Astray'' climbed on the left side throughout.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nowhere Man''' 8m HVS,5b&lt;br&gt;The same arete climbed on the right side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Perverted By Language''' 9m E4,6c Fr7b&lt;br&gt;The right-hand buttress leans slightly. At its left end is a faint groove. Climb this desperately past a BR and PR. Blood blisters are compulsory.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Siberian Santa ??? Fr 7b*'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall a few metres R.3BR&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Punk On Ronny Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;0.69 m L of the fence.5.69m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nick's New Route VS 4b'''&lt;br&gt;The flaky crack by the fence.5.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Nasty Little Squirter HVS 5a'''&lt;br&gt;Gain the rooflet and high groove.PR.Left of the stream gushing down the chimney/crack&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ooze A Bad Boy Then HS'''&lt;br&gt;Just right of the gusher,the crack to a large tree.5.69m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> The [[#Main Section|Main Section]] is dominated by a pool. Routes can be reached by walking over the small dam wall. Behind the dam is an obvious buttress and a diagonal terrace at a higher level.<br /> <br /> ''Just left of the pool is a wall with......''<br /> #'''It Had To Happen'''12m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;L hand sport line to chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bolts On Grit'''11.69m Fr 5+&lt;br&gt; Sport line L of Bernard's Balls Up. String around twig and bolt LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bernard’s Balls Up''' 12m E3,6a *&lt;br&gt; The wall immediately left of the obvious offwidth behind the pool, PR, finishing up a flake crack 1m below the top. A good fingery number.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Maz''' 26m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The obvious offwidth and the overgrown corner above and left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Greet Whoppin Jugs''' 12m E4,6b&lt;br&gt; To the right of ''Maz'' and directly above the dam is an obvious arete. Climb this to a PR, then step left and climb the technical upper slab.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bla bla Casino Lie'''Fr7a+&lt;br&gt;Thin moves on left of pillar gain aledge then rejoin the technical uppert slab of''Greet Whoppin Jugs ''Lower off a tree .&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calling The Shots''' 12m E4,5c **&lt;br&gt; The excellent arete above the little dam. The PR on ''Greet Whoppin Jugs'' is not clipped at this grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Just to the right and directly above the pool is another wall and undercut block.''<br /> #'''Project'''&lt;br&gt; Still covered in moss cleaning delayed due to rope theft.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Well Heeled''' 12m VS,4c&lt;br&gt; The crack in the centre of the slab above the pool and R of the arete of ''Calling The Shots''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Talking Turkey'''Fr 6a&lt;br&gt;Nice climbing once the rubbly groove is exited.Shares LO with''Well Heeled''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cold Turkey'''Fr 5&lt;br&gt;Left side of undercut block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fed Up Of Turkey'''Fr 5+&lt;br&gt;The R arete of the block traversing L to join the shared L.O of ''Cold Turkey''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Above this wall is a terrace with a few large trees''<br /> #'''Bathtime'''VS 4c&lt;br&gt; The uncleaned corner crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Retrogenius'''Fr 6b&lt;br&gt; Left-most stapled route un relentless crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Un-named'''Fr 4&lt;br&gt; Up the steps to the arete. Then curse the clown who put the lower-off so far to the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Calcaneum Crunch''' 12m E2,5c *&lt;br&gt; Above ''Well Heeled'' is a terrace. This route climbs a faint groove in the right hand side of the slab, past a low PR which is the only gear. Committing and airy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Free Wales Army''' 15m E1,5b *&lt;br&gt; The arete down to the right of ''Calcaneum Crunch'', starting on the left is better than it looks, PR. Hard for the grade.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The exact line of the next three routes is not known for sure.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Whatah''' 12m VD&lt;br&gt; The layback crack up the corner to the right of a small arete to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall, with a move out left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scream''' 12m S&lt;br&gt; To the left of ''Whatah'', climb the corner and fractured crack to the grass ledge on Whatah. Take the crack at the back of the ledge to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Phil’s Arete''' 15m D&lt;br&gt; The arete to the right of Scream. Poor, with loose rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Harbour Wall''' 15m S&lt;br&gt; The centre of the prominent red wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Alibi''' 15m E2,5c&lt;br&gt; The central wall in the penultimate bay of the quarry.Excellent wall climbing leads to the high central crack of Bralibi.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Brawl''' 12m E3,6a&lt;br&gt; The crack to the right direct then up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Gall Fr6b'''&lt;br&gt; An easier variant of the previous ,step R at the big jug to ledges then swing back left to finish up the arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bralibi*'''12.69m Fr 6b+&lt;br&gt; Crack on right then step L to central crack. Holds at top muddy and need cleaning.LO&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> ===Left Hand Section===<br /> #''E.Travers-Jones, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''S.Coles 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Lawrence 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 05.04.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore Dai Emanuel ?.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Main Section===<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas D. Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas D.Emanuel 05.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore Dai Emanuel ?.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Evans, A.Jenkins, P.Green 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Project''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas E.T.Jones 23.04.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''Unknown Pre-1973''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''R.Thomas G.Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''G.Ashmore 20.03.2015''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17221 2015-02-21T09:13:16Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route. Delicate&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''La doux parfum de la lingerie utilise - Fr.6c'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hand Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17220 2015-02-21T09:11:19Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Make a Splash/Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route. Delicate&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''La doux parfum de la lingerie utilise - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hand Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas Richie Phillips 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17137 2014-10-05T20:45:41Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hnad Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17136 2014-10-05T18:49:05Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Right Hnad Pillars'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D. Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17135 2014-10-05T18:10:42Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Seaman Wall'''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.09.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.09.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas, D.Emanuel 00.10.2014''<br /> #''D.Emanuel, R.Thomas 00.10.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Mermaid Wall'''<br /> #''X.XXXX 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17134 2014-10-05T18:01:56Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side. A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17133 2014-10-05T18:00:45Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a stepped roof on its left side<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point. Same L/O as previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality? Same L/O as previous&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> Further to the right.....<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17132 2014-10-05T17:58:15Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> At the rear of Castaway Cove lies an elevated slab with a large roof on its left side<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A bold route attacking the roof at its widest point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;A route crossing the roof further right, at a narrower point.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;An ascent of the corner to gain the slab above. Fault breccia at half height adds to the excitment but detracts from the quality?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17128 2014-09-28T20:08:20Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of slab past two small roofs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct ascent of slab to same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Travelling leftward, step up to achieve a hold below the overhanging corner then delicately across slab to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b**'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.6b+**'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof,gnarly start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Seamans Taines-VS 4c'''&lt;br&gt; The crack/chimney direct,avoid eternal damnation by not clipping any handy bolts then lower off the prefixed ab rope,or top out and scramble 60m up vertical grass to the path.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right of crack stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17122 2014-09-24T10:45:33Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Blockiness shipwreck cove.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Steve Warrington on ''Blockiness'', '''Shipwreck Cove'''. Photo: Alan Rosier]]<br /> '''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Seamen Wall===<br /> Between [[#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]] and [[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The King's Shilling - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Captain Jacque Hoff - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Concrete Cow - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Smeatons Stump - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Good Ship Venus - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand corner stepping left to belay of previous..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.05.2014''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> #''R.Thomas 00.06.2014''<br /> <br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17092 2014-09-15T08:08:53Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Seaman Wall===<br /> Between Castaway Cove and Mermaid Wall runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Bored of Toad Hall - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17091 2014-09-15T07:50:35Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Seaman Wall===<br /> Between Castaway Cove and Mermaid Wall runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_Sea_Level&diff=17090 2014-09-15T07:49:39Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Rhossili]]'''<br /> <br /> ==TIDAL STATUS==<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> ==PREAMBLE==<br /> <br /> ==ACCESS==<br /> <br /> ==DESCENTS==<br /> <br /> ==THE ROUTES==<br /> <br /> ===Black Wall===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites''' - Fr.6a&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers''' - Fr.5&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr.6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Shipwreck Cove===<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck pano.jpg|1280px|thumb|center|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]] panorama]]<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr 6c'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014 along with Hand Shandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr.7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr.7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr.7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr.7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrian's.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr.8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr.6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr.6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''John's Route''' - Fr.6a+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.6a+**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.6a+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Castaway Cove===<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Seaman Wall===<br /> Between Castaway Cove and Mermaid Wall runs a short wall with several pocketed overhangs and corners. <br /> <br /> #'''Unnamed - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Ascend the first cave on its right-hand side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;The overhanging crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;#<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Direct asualt on the overhang via its right hand side. Same LO as previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Commnece the corner via a roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;enter the corner from the right via easier terain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.?'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Mermaid Wall===<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window (varies with neaps and springs) so take care not to get cut off (common sense really). Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> [[Image:Mermaid pano.jpg|1280px|center|thumb|[[#Mermaid Wall|Mermaid Wall]] panorama]]<br /> <br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr 4'''&lt;br&gt;A slab with traces of corner moving R to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ceasg - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;Your guess is as good as mine re. nomeclature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocalypse - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt; More of the same.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; Almost the same except a crystal pocket mono by slightly tricky move.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.5'''&lt;br&gt;Edge R of slender groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvy Dog - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt; L of the cave.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt; Start as for following but move right over cave roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad - Fr.6b **'''&lt;br&gt;Harder, centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder, then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;From the top of the block move L and over the roof.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;From the block follow the arete then L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of block and arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Juggy corner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Break R at second bolt of previous.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;Outstanding pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall R of pillar then roof direct to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Slight bulge then on to upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;As previous then slightly R moving back to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.3+*'''&lt;br&gt;Easily to step R onto ledge and common chain LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to shared belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;Wall to ledge ,shared belay on L.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;Isolated pitch high above the ledge systems.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short black wall to shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Another short wall to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.4+*'''&lt;br&gt;Long slab to isolated chain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Right Hand Pillars====<br /> ''Above and R of the deep cave are a series of pillars with atmospheric routes''<br /> <br /> #'''Project with working rope'''&lt;br&gt; NOT GLUED.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step - Fr.6a**'''&lt;br&gt;Can be done when tide in from high ledge, gained easily from the ''Trevenna Fish Hotel'' or harder direct start. Step R from ledge ascend atmospheric groove.(leave the working rope alone!!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Pick your barnacle (R hand easier) start then a deceptive crack to upper wall. Shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start leads to L or R variant over the roof which join on upper wall and shared LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Up to the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> #'''First Diedre''' 10m D&lt;br&gt;Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the rightward-slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *&lt;br&gt;The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull''' 10m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cross''' 12m D&lt;br&gt;Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *&lt;br&gt;The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *&lt;br&gt;Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Climb the arete dividing ''Great Diedre II'' and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD&lt;br&gt;Ascend the obvious slanting crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete'''17m E1,5a *&lt;br&gt;Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble there’s a Hold'''10m E3,5c&lt;br&gt;Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of ''Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of ''Great Diedre II'' and then the crack splitting its back.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b &lt;br&gt;Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D&lt;br&gt;The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *&lt;br&gt;The arete to the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the right hand end of [[#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]] is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> #'''Zig Zag''' 15m VD&lt;br&gt;Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Central Gully''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Slab And Crack''' 15m D&lt;br&gt;Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deception''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Deceit''' 20m S&lt;br&gt;Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a&lt;br&gt;The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head is a narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> #'''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *&lt;br&gt;The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c&lt;br&gt;Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and groove, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b&lt;br&gt;Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of ''Sinister Sister''. Some poor rock.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> #'''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b&lt;br&gt;Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c&lt;br&gt;Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> #'''Turning Japanese''' 18m E5,6a *&lt;br&gt;A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a&lt;br&gt;Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **&lt;br&gt;A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> #'''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **&lt;br&gt;When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.&lt;br&gt;<br /> ## 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **&lt;br&gt;A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *&lt;br&gt;Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b&lt;br&gt;The most seaward crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a&lt;br&gt;The next crack to the right (landwards).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *&lt;br&gt;Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **&lt;br&gt;The third crack right from the sea. Good.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;The fourth crack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b&lt;br&gt;Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c&lt;br&gt;The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> #'''Dove Crack''' 12m M&lt;br&gt;The wide chimney in the back of the cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS&lt;br&gt;The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ==FIRST ASCENTS==<br /> <br /> '''Black Wall'''<br /> <br /> '''Shipwreck Cove'''<br /> <br /> '''Castaway Cove'''<br /> <br /> ''' Sheepbone Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber Pre-1978''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Terrace Wall'''<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Harber 00.00.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Sinister Sister Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Evening Wall'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ''' Yellow Zawn'''<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''The Platform Area'''<br /> #''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''M.Ward 16.08.1987''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Poser Buttress'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> #''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''L.Davies 00.00.1988''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Kitchen Corner'''<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;<br /> #''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''&lt;br&gt;</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_old&diff=16987 2014-08-19T12:32:49Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTITLE__<br /> [[Image:Rhossili.jpg|centre|]]<br /> [[Category:Gower]]<br /> <br /> &lt;!--[[Image:Worms Head.JPG|700px|thumb|right|Worms Head. Photo by Steve Delaney]]--&gt;<br /> == TIDAL STATUS ==<br /> The '''[[Rhossili#Upper Crags|Upper Crags]]''' are Non-Tidal. The '''[[Rhossili#Sea Level Crags|Lower Crags]]''' are accessible between 1 and 3 hours either<br /> side of low water.<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> The crags overlook the beautiful [[wikipedia:Rhossili|Rhossili Bay]] and the Worms Head itself. They contain a good mixture of easy and hard routes. The sea level crags look small when the tide is, but this view proves decepetive as the tide recedes. The upper crags face west, whilst the sea-level crags are mainly north facing. The best area of the upper crags is the solid quarried wall of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''', containing mostly semi-equipped routes. At sea level there are a number of pleasant areas the best being The '''[[Rhossili#The Platform Area|Platform Area]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Poser Buttress|Poser Buttress]]'''.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> Climbing on the Worms Head itself is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. To ignore this ban could jeopardise access to many<br /> other cliffs on Gower and it should be strictly adhered to. Climbing on the [http://www.thewormshead.co.uk/ Worms Head Hotel] probably would not go down too well with the landlord. Worse still you might disturb Turbo, Fester, Ronnie or worst of all, Chris Davies. <br /> <br /> For a small fee it is possible to park in the farmers field at the end of the road leading into [[wikipedia:Rhossili|Rhossili]] village (GR 415881). <br /> <br /> Walk south along the narrow private road past the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust Shop] and coastguard cottages, in the direction of the Worms Head. Pass through the gate and continue along the gravel road until it takes a sharp left, where the stone wall and cliff edge are closest, this is just past a bench and gate in the stone wall. At this point turn right towards the cliffs and follow a path down, above wedge wall and leading to trial wall. The rest of the upper cliffs are reached by striking off south (left when facing seaward). The sea level cliffs can be reached by following the path down below '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and walking along the beach or from the short cuts noted below. '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is directly below '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. &lt;!-- Sinister Sister Zawn lies directly below the ABSENT white pole halfway between Trial Wall and Lifebuoy Butress.--&gt; '''[[Rhossili#Evening Wall|Evening Wall]]''' lies directly below '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]'''. '''[[Rhossili#Yellow Zawn|Yellow Zawn]]''' is down and south from Lifebuoy Buttress. The Secret is almost directly below the arete of An Audience of Sheep. The Platform is below and south of An Audience Of Sheep on '''[[Rhossili#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]'''. '''[[Rhossili#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]]''' is reached by contouring from the end of the upper crags to drop down onto the beach by some rocky steps.<br /> <br /> {{#display_points:<br /> {{Googlemap}}<br /> |height=450<br /> |zoom=15<br /> |centre=51.56864, -4.30130<br /> |service=openlayers<br /> |layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google<br /> |controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher,mouseposition<br /> }}<br /> <br /> == DESCENTS ==<br /> Are obvious and just by walking off.<br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> == Upper Crags ==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Lifebuoy Buttress &amp; Sense of Adventure Buttress''' - Following a site visit with [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ National Trust](prior to the bolt meeting of July 23 2011), they asked that these buttresses not have bolts in them. This goes against the existing bolt policy and was unfortunately not discussed in the meeting, there is a further meeting with National Trust date TBC (end of September estimate) where we will try and clarify. Please do not add bolts in the mean time.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Black Buttress''' - From the same site visit(previous to the meeting of the 23rd July), bolts are allowed, and new sport routes but glue in's should be used(despite the only route bolted here having hangers).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Retribution Wall===<br /> [[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]<br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]<br /> <br /> #'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt; The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b'''&lt;br&gt; Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b'''&lt;br&gt;The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a'''&lt;br&gt;The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a'''&lt;br&gt;As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> #Matt Woodfield 21/08/11<br /> #Tony Penning &amp; Peter Creswell 8/11/81<br /> #Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11<br /> #Andy Sharp &amp; John Harwood 8/11/81<br /> #Steven Warrington 21/08/11<br /> #Steven Warrington 21/08/11<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Trial Wall===<br /> [[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]<br /> [[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]<br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).<br /> <br /> #'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c **&lt;br&gt;Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blackman’s Pinch''' 24m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ ***&lt;br&gt;A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman’s Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt;Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ *&lt;br&gt;The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of &quot;twizzles&quot;. Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt;A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Hant - Fr. 7a'''&lt;br&gt;Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a'''&lt;br&gt;The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a **&lt;br&gt;A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> #''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''<br /> #''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt – Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood – Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''<br /> #''M.Richards - 2013''<br /> #''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas – Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''<br /> #''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp – Direct 00.00.1988''<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''<br /> #''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''<br /> <br /> ''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment''’s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or<br /> two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Wedge Wall===<br /> [[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|700px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]<br /> The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.<br /> <br /> #'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+'''&lt;br&gt; Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedgling - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt; Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay with route on right. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Face climbing on crimps. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> #<br /> #<br /> #<br /> # ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987<br /> #<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===<br /> Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of Terrace Wall, just below Wedge Wall.<br /> <br /> #'''Ayla''' - 8m HS&lt;br&gt; Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.<br /> <br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> # ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Lifebuoy Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear<br /> on a point for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were allowed.This situation now changed with no discussion at the July 2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.<br /> <br /> &lt;!-- About 30m right of The Sense Of Adventure Area is a white pole and 30m further right is a buttress in the upper cliff. --&gt;<br /> <br /> 1. '''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a<br /> <br /> The left hand arete.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''<br /> <br /> 2. '''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+.<br /> <br /> The wall 3m right of The Axe. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+'''<br /> <br /> The wall, direct ,left of the stepped corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of Blockbuster to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978<br /> G.Evans, J.Bullock – Direct 00.00.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Some 6m right of Pulpit is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress.<br /> <br /> ''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> === Black Buttress ===<br /> [[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]<br /> <br /> About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.<br /> <br /> This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. There was one bolted route which appears to be about Fr.6b. There is scope for more.<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on<br /> a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''unnamed''' 20m ??<br /> <br /> There is a line of hangars.<br /> <br /> ''Stu Llewellyn 2011''<br /> <br /> 1.5.'''Another line of hangers'''20m??&lt;br&gt;<br /> Climb the groove which may or may not be Bragg step L onto the wall proceed to ring belay of previous.<br /> ''Unknown''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Bragg''' 12m V Diff<br /> <br /> Follow flakes and a corner in the centre.Lower part now bolted.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Little Spider''' 10m VD<br /> <br /> Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace.<br /> <br /> ''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''<br /> <br /> ===Black Buttress Right ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:'''Sport routes are allowed '''[[Rhossili#The Sense of Adventure Area|The formerley known as: Sense of Adventure area]]''' lies well above sea level 200m on from '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and after '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]'''. There is some atrocious rock(mostly on the main quarry). The exact location of this section with the two trad routes is no longer open to conjecture but is in all probability just on the right side of the Black Buttress area on a block where it is easy to walk off the terrace.This is fine and dandy since the NT seem to permit bolting in this area.( It now seems(2014)that the crack seamed wall just right of the block is used for coast guard rescue practice so the NT would prefer it to remain unaltered)Several trad routes have been done but remain unrecorded and the belay stakes removed after a request by the NT. <br /> <br /> 1. '''The Edge''' 5m E4,6a<br /> <br /> A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected.<br /> <br /> ''A.Berry 00.00.1997''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''The Beautiful People''' 12m E1,5b<br /> <br /> The other arete on this block.<br /> <br /> ''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Right of the crack seamed wall''<br /> #'''Hard To Swallow Fr6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete8.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spit'n Polish Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;The groove R of arete to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Silent Fright Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It has an impressive arete on the left, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a *<br /> <br /> Climb the impressive arete at the left side of the wall, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c<br /> <br /> Just right (~1m) of the Silent Fright arete is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjouinted arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystalised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove.<br /> <br /> ''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''.<br /> <br /> ''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c *<br /> <br /> The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Executioner’s Thrill''' 15m E4,6b *<br /> <br /> A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner’s Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c<br /> <br /> Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the<br /> crack and arete to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b<br /> <br /> The flying arete bounding the buttress on its right. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 60m further along is a short slabby wall, recognised by a square-cut window-like notch at the top of the slab.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Wages of Sin''' 12m E4,6a<br /> <br /> A good pitch, following the slight groove up the left side of the slab.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''<br /> <br /> == Sea Level Crags ==<br /> === Rhossili Bay ===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> This is easiest reached by taking the beach path behind the Worms Head Hotel(marked on road) then walking left facing out to sea( S) along the beach towards the Worm and other lower crags.<br /> <br /> There are stakes in place at the top of some '''[[Rhossili#Sea Level Crags|sea level crags]]'''.<br /> <br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' Well there's lots there now!<br /> <br /> ====Black Wall====<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites Fr 6?'''&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers Fr?'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr. 6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr. 6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr. 6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Shipwreck Cove====<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly<br /> overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr. 7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr. 7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr. 8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrians.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr. 8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr. 6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr. 6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''no name yet''' - Fr. ? **&lt;br&gt;Just left of the high cave, start up the ramp.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.?**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.?+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt; Slab on Mermaid sector,crystal pocket at bulge.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love Fr ?*'''&lt;br&gt;Left side of white tower.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad Fr ?**'''&lt;br&gt;Centre of tower.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty Fr ?**'''&lt;br&gt; The right arete.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly groove right of pillar.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''He wouldn't join This Vicar's Tea Party Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Step of block join route on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Castaway Cove====<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Steep cave around corner from Mermaid Cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Mermaid Wall====<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window(varies with neaps and springs)so take care not to get cut off(common sense really).Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr.6x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Caesg - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocolypse - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvey Dog - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad Fr.6b **'''&lt;br.Harder,centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder,then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Climb the wall to belay above ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;The central leaning pillar on pockets then the face above. If your hung-over use the cave instead of the pockets.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;The right-hand pocketed pillar to joint the previous route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Arete left of large ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Upto the large ledge and left-hand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;Righthand finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''First Diedre''' 10m D<br /> <br /> Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b<br /> <br /> Climb the rightward-slanting crack.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *<br /> <br /> The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Skull''' 10m HS,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Cross''' 12m D<br /> <br /> Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *<br /> <br /> The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. '''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *<br /> <br /> Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> &lt;!--Seems M. Crocker got this first. 10. ''' Swine Flew E2 '''<br /> <br /> Start just left of ''Great Diedre II'' and climb the wall via a thin diagonal left to right crack. Escapable but worthwhile. <br /> <br /> ''Chris Wyatt &amp; Steve Hill 15/7/09''<br /> --&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. '''Grated Wall''' 12 E1,5b<br /> <br /> Climb the crack in the left wall of ''Great Diedre 11'', finishing direct with difficulty.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. '''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).<br /> <br /> ''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *<br /> <br /> Climb the arete dividing Great Diedre II and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.<br /> <br /> ''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. '''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.<br /> <br /> ''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. '''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD<br /> <br /> Ascend the obvious slanting crack.<br /> <br /> ''M.Harber Pre-1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. '''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete''' 17m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.<br /> <br /> ''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. '''Gamble there’s a Hold''' 10m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. '''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of Great Diedre II and then the crack splitting its back.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. '''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b <br /> <br /> Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. '''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b<br /> <br /> The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. '''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D<br /> <br /> The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. '''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *<br /> <br /> The arete to the right.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> At the right hand end of Sheepbone Wall is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. '''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. '''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Zig Zag''' 15m VD<br /> <br /> Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Central Gully''' 15m D<br /> <br /> The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Slab And Crack''' 15m D<br /> <br /> Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Deception''' 20m S<br /> <br /> Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Deceit''' 20m S<br /> <br /> Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.<br /> <br /> ''M.Harber 00.00.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a<br /> <br /> The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head &lt;!-- and below the white pole marking Lifebuoy Buttress,--&gt;is a<br /> narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then<br /> access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c<br /> <br /> From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***<br /> <br /> Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **<br /> <br /> The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *<br /> <br /> The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c<br /> <br /> Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and<br /> groove, TR.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b<br /> <br /> Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of Sinister Sister. Some poor rock.<br /> <br /> ''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b <br /> <br /> Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the<br /> headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c<br /> <br /> Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly. <br /> <br /> ''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> &lt;!-- 80m along the upper cliff path from the white pole or along the beach from Sinister Sister Zawn, is a deep zawn with a cave at its back containing a 20m high, north-facing wall with a yellow arete. Descend by an easy scramble. --&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Turning Japanese 18m E5,6a *<br /> <br /> A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin<br /> crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The<br /> following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **<br /> <br /> A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **<br /> <br /> When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.<br /> # 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.<br /> # 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.<br /> # 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **<br /> <br /> A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. <br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *<br /> <br /> Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.<br /> <br /> ''M.Ward 16.08.1987''<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> <br /> 1. '''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b<br /> <br /> The most seaward crack.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The next crack to the right (landwards).<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *<br /> <br /> Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **<br /> <br /> The third crack right from the sea. Good.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5.''' Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The fourth crack.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies 00.00.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> <br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Dove Crack''' 12m M<br /> <br /> The wide chimney in the back of the cove.<br /> <br /> ''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS<br /> <br /> The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.<br /> <br /> ''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Rhossili_old&diff=16986 2014-08-19T12:24:04Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTITLE__<br /> [[Image:Rhossili.jpg|centre|]]<br /> [[Category:Gower]]<br /> <br /> &lt;!--[[Image:Worms Head.JPG|700px|thumb|right|Worms Head. Photo by Steve Delaney]]--&gt;<br /> == TIDAL STATUS ==<br /> The '''[[Rhossili#Upper Crags|Upper Crags]]''' are Non-Tidal. The '''[[Rhossili#Sea Level Crags|Lower Crags]]''' are accessible between 1 and 3 hours either<br /> side of low water.<br /> <br /> == BOLTING POLICY ==<br /> See individual crags<br /> <br /> == PREAMBLE ==<br /> The crags overlook the beautiful [[wikipedia:Rhossili|Rhossili Bay]] and the Worms Head itself. They contain a good mixture of easy and hard routes. The sea level crags look small when the tide is, but this view proves decepetive as the tide recedes. The upper crags face west, whilst the sea-level crags are mainly north facing. The best area of the upper crags is the solid quarried wall of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''', containing mostly semi-equipped routes. At sea level there are a number of pleasant areas the best being The '''[[Rhossili#The Platform Area|Platform Area]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Poser Buttress|Poser Buttress]]'''.<br /> <br /> == ACCESS ==<br /> Climbing on the Worms Head itself is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. To ignore this ban could jeopardise access to many<br /> other cliffs on Gower and it should be strictly adhered to. Climbing on the [http://www.thewormshead.co.uk/ Worms Head Hotel] probably would not go down too well with the landlord. Worse still you might disturb Turbo, Fester, Ronnie or worst of all, Chris Davies. <br /> <br /> For a small fee it is possible to park in the farmers field at the end of the road leading into [[wikipedia:Rhossili|Rhossili]] village (GR 415881). <br /> <br /> Walk south along the narrow private road past the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust Shop] and coastguard cottages, in the direction of the Worms Head. Pass through the gate and continue along the gravel road until it takes a sharp left, where the stone wall and cliff edge are closest, this is just past a bench and gate in the stone wall. At this point turn right towards the cliffs and follow a path down, above wedge wall and leading to trial wall. The rest of the upper cliffs are reached by striking off south (left when facing seaward). The sea level cliffs can be reached by following the path down below '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and walking along the beach or from the short cuts noted below. '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is directly below '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. &lt;!-- Sinister Sister Zawn lies directly below the ABSENT white pole halfway between Trial Wall and Lifebuoy Butress.--&gt; '''[[Rhossili#Evening Wall|Evening Wall]]''' lies directly below '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]'''. '''[[Rhossili#Yellow Zawn|Yellow Zawn]]''' is down and south from Lifebuoy Buttress. The Secret is almost directly below the arete of An Audience of Sheep. The Platform is below and south of An Audience Of Sheep on '''[[Rhossili#Silent Fright Buttress|Silent Fright Buttress]]'''. '''[[Rhossili#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]]''' is reached by contouring from the end of the upper crags to drop down onto the beach by some rocky steps.<br /> <br /> {{#display_points:<br /> {{Googlemap}}<br /> |height=450<br /> |zoom=15<br /> |centre=51.56864, -4.30130<br /> |service=openlayers<br /> |layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google<br /> |controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher,mouseposition<br /> }}<br /> <br /> == DESCENTS ==<br /> Are obvious and just by walking off.<br /> <br /> == THE ROUTES ==<br /> <br /> == Upper Crags ==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Lifebuoy Buttress &amp; Sense of Adventure Buttress''' - Following a site visit with [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ National Trust](prior to the bolt meeting of July 23 2011), they asked that these buttresses not have bolts in them. This goes against the existing bolt policy and was unfortunately not discussed in the meeting, there is a further meeting with National Trust date TBC (end of September estimate) where we will try and clarify. Please do not add bolts in the mean time.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Black Buttress''' - From the same site visit(previous to the meeting of the 23rd July), bolts are allowed, and new sport routes but glue in's should be used(despite the only route bolted here having hangers).<br /> <br /> <br /> === Retribution Wall===<br /> [[Image:Retribution wall2.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]]]<br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes so some of the in-situ gear is dubious. Some of it has been replaced. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of [[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]] but is to be referred to as [[#Retribution Wall|Retribution Wall]]<br /> <br /> #'''Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt; The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b'''&lt;br&gt; Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b'''&lt;br&gt;The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(''World Without End''). 23 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a'''&lt;br&gt;The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of ''Laughing Spam Fritter'', joining it to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a'''&lt;br&gt;As for ''Somme Mothers'' but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt; <br /> #Matt Woodfield 21/08/11<br /> #Tony Penning &amp; Peter Creswell 8/11/81<br /> #Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11<br /> #Andy Sharp &amp; John Harwood 8/11/81<br /> #Steven Warrington 21/08/11<br /> #Steven Warrington 21/08/11<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Trial Wall===<br /> [[Image:Trial_wall.jpg|thumb|600px|'''[[Trial Wall]]''']]<br /> [[Image:Trial Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Gareth Tucker on ''Crime and Punishment'', '''[[#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Photo by Steve Lucocq]]<br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.<br /> <br /> The rusted through belay wire thread above ''Crime and Punishment'' et al has been replaced but take/your own back up large tape thread or lash out and leave your own large thread (with maillon of course).<br /> <br /> #'''The Adulteress''' 24m E2,5c **&lt;br&gt;Climb the crack just right of the left arete of the main face, through an overhang, then traverse right along an obvious break and climb the wide crack to the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blackman’s Pinch''' 24m E4,6a **&lt;br&gt;A popular test piece, start just right of the arete. Climb a rightward-slanting crack to the overlap. Surmount this, BR, and gain the break above (crux). Using the 'new' obvious jug out left is not only off route but will stop you in your tracks. Finish as for ''The Adulteress''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Skull Attack''' 24m E6,6b Fr. 7b+ ***&lt;br&gt;A stunningly technical wall climb, currently fully bolted. Start right of ''Blackman’s Pinch'' and left of the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove below an overlap. Climb to and surmount the overlap to a ledge. Move left to a thin crack. Moving slightly right at a good thin break, make a baffling sequence on non-existent flakes to gain a prominent groove. Mantle awkwardly into this, topping out to bolt belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; <br /> #'''Retrobution''' 24m Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt;Plough on up the ''Crime and Punishment'' groove until holds run out, continue into ''Skull Attack'' to finish.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crime and Punishment''' 23m E5,6b ***&lt;br&gt;Fine sustained climbing. Start below a scoop and 3 BRs in the middle of the wall. Gain the scoop, then follow the shallow groove to its top. Traverse right along the obvious break to thin cracks, PR, and climb these (hard) to good jambs beneath the overhang, old PR. The crack then becomes less helpul when pushing for the top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Wall'''-Fr. 8a+ *&lt;br&gt;The original and direct finish now regeared. A vicious, fingery problem, especially when the direct finish is taken. Start 3m right of ''Crime and Punishment'' at a line of &quot;twizzles&quot;. Make a series of difficult moves to below the bulge. Desperate moves past the remains of an edge lead over the overlap to the top. The route had lost a hold at the top but it has been successfully redpointed in 2011. 21m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Inch Pinch''' -Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt;A pitch, up a short crack on the right side of the crag. Boulder up directly to a BR. Gain a crack with difficulty and climb it. Continue more easily to the top.Regeared 2011.15m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Hant - Fr. 7a'''&lt;br&gt;Follow ''Inch Pinch'' to a good lay-away hold, then move right and over the overlap with difficulty. Follow a shallow groove and crack to the top. 15 m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Tribulations - Fr. 7a'''&lt;br&gt;The right arete of the buttress, moving left at the top. 12 m.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Shakeout''' 27m E3,6a **&lt;br&gt;A girdle of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' from right to left. Start at the right edge of the wall, at the obvious breakline below the bulges. Follow the break past 2BRs to join ''Crime and Punishment''. Move up for 2m and continue leftwards, BR, to finish up ''The Adulteress''. A hanging stance can be taken on on ''Crime And Punishment''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> #''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm Variation 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 08.11.1981''<br /> #''S.Padfield, D.Thomas - Worm 00.00.1965, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 1pt – Top Section 29.05.1983, A.Sharp, J.Harwood – Top Section 15.04.1984, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986''<br /> #''M.Richards - 2013''<br /> #''G.Hicks, S.Padfield, D.Thomas – Trial 00.00.1966, L.Francombe 1pt 00.00.1980, FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''<br /> #''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1961, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 3pt 22.11.1981, A.Forster, A.Sharp – Direct 00.00.1988''<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.05.1983''<br /> #''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987''<br /> #''R.Thomas 20.09.1998''<br /> #''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.10.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''The Story of ''Skull Attack'''''<br /> <br /> ''Skull Attack'' is a route with a complicated history. It was originally climbed by Andy Sharp in 1983, coming out of ''Crime And Punishment''’s ramp and climbing the top wall with 1pt. The protection was 4PRs and a wire or<br /> two. Andy returned the year after with John Harwood again and removed the aid point. The lower section was added by Andy with Pete Lewis two year later in 1986 with an extra PR in the bottom wall. The route received ascents from various climbers like Martin Crocker and Andy Swann before the pegs were stolen. Pegs were sporadically placed by climbers such as Andy Long and Stefan Doerr, but kept going missing. Andy said he thought the route should be bolted up instead, which Goi Ashmore did in 1998. Various people got rather annoyed about 5PRs being replaced with 6BRs. Andy on the other hand still reckons there should be another bolt in it. For the enlightenment of non-locals, ''Skull Attack'' is the famous [http://www.sabrain.com/beers/draught/cask-beers/sa Brains SA Bitter].<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> ===Wedge Wall===<br /> [[Image:Wedge wall.jpg|right|thumb|700px|[[Rhossili#Wedge Wall|Wedge Wall]]]]<br /> The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.<br /> <br /> #'''The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+'''&lt;br&gt; Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedgling - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt; Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5'''&lt;br&gt;Shared belay with route on right. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+'''&lt;br&gt; Face climbing on crimps. 10 m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> #<br /> #<br /> #<br /> # ''Tim Hoddy'' solo 16.07.1987<br /> #<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall Upper Tier ===<br /> Short climbs starting from the terrace at the top of Terrace Wall, just below Wedge Wall.<br /> <br /> #'''Ayla''' - 8m HS&lt;br&gt; Climb the crack just to the left of the cave.<br /> <br /> ====First Ascents====<br /> &lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;<br /> # ''Melinda Morrell, Steve Hill' 24.08.2013<br /> &lt;/font&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> === Lifebuoy Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting was permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear<br /> on a point for point basis with bolts was permissible. New sports routes were allowed.This situation now changed with no discussion at the July 2011 bolt meeting,the NT have declared NO BOLTING.<br /> <br /> &lt;!-- About 30m right of The Sense Of Adventure Area is a white pole and 30m further right is a buttress in the upper cliff. --&gt;<br /> <br /> 1. '''The Axe''' 14m E1,5a<br /> <br /> The left hand arete.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 26.05.1985''<br /> <br /> 2. '''Blockbuster''' 14m Fr 5+.<br /> <br /> The wall 3m right of The Axe. Climb from ledge to ledge parallel with the arete, finishing up a short scoop. PRs missing.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Hatchet Man Fr. 6b+'''<br /> <br /> The wall, direct ,left of the stepped corner.<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Pulpit''' 14m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Not a route to preach about! Climb a stepped corner 9m right of Blockbuster to a pulpit, move left and up a smooth curving crack for 1m then left and up a wall into a scoop to the top.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978<br /> G.Evans, J.Bullock – Direct 00.00.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Crunch''' 24m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Some 6m right of Pulpit is a corner with a grassy ledge. Climb this and the central crack in the upper buttress.<br /> <br /> ''A.Tyas, J.Pratt, G.Evans 00.00.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> === Black Buttress ===<br /> [[Image:Black buttress.jpg|thumb|600px|right|[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]]]<br /> <br /> About 40m right of '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]''' are some black walls.<br /> <br /> This large area is the site of an old quarry as are most of these upper crags. There was one bolted route which appears to be about Fr.6b. There is scope for more.<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on<br /> a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed as agreed recently by the NT and local BMC meeting.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''unnamed''' 20m ??<br /> <br /> There is a line of hangars.<br /> <br /> ''Stu Llewellyn 2011''<br /> <br /> 1.5.'''Another line of hangers'''20m??&lt;br&gt;<br /> Climb the groove which may or may not be Bragg step L onto the wall proceed to ring belay of previous.<br /> ''Unknown''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Bragg''' 12m V Diff<br /> <br /> Follow flakes and a corner in the centre.Lower part now bolted.<br /> <br /> ''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Little Spider''' 10m VD<br /> <br /> Up and 8 metres to the right of ''Bragg'', Follow the crackline to the terrace.<br /> <br /> ''Joe Gallacher, Darren Evans 25.05.2011''<br /> <br /> ===Black Buttress Right ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLTING POLICY:'''Sport routes are allowed '''[[Rhossili#The Sense of Adventure Area|The formerley known as: Sense of Adventure area]]''' lies well above sea level 200m on from '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and after '''[[Rhossili#Lifebuoy Buttress|Lifebuoy Buttress]]'''. There is some atrocious rock(mostly on the main quarry). The exact location of this section with the two trad routes is no longer open to conjecture but is in all probability just on the right side of the Black Buttress area on a block where it is easy to walk off the terrace.This is fine and dandy since the NT seem to permit bolting in this area.( It now seems(2014)that the crack seamed wall just right of the block is used for coast guard rescue practice so the NT would prefer it to remain unaltered)Several trad routes have been done but remain unrecorded and the belay stakes removed after a request by the NT. <br /> <br /> 1. '''The Edge''' 5m E4,6a<br /> <br /> A perfect square-cut arete on the block. Unprotected.<br /> <br /> ''A.Berry 00.00.1997''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''The Beautiful People''' 12m E1,5b<br /> <br /> The other arete on this block.<br /> <br /> ''G.Morris, A.Berry 00.00.1997''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''Right of the crack seamed wall''<br /> #'''Hard To Swallow Fr6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;Short but entertaining,the left side of the arete8.69m&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Spit'n Polish Fr 6a'''&lt;br&gt;The groove R of arete to shared belay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Silent Fright Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> This is located 90m south-west along the headland from '''[[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]]'''. It has an impressive arete on the left, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and a prominent overhanging arete to its right (''An Audience of Sheep'').<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Silent Fright''' 24m E4,6a *<br /> <br /> Climb the impressive arete at the left side of the wall, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Deafening Calm''' HVS 4c<br /> <br /> Just right (~1m) of the Silent Fright arete is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjouinted arete with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arete gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arete to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystalised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arete, make moves into the groove just right of the arete. Take care in the top groove.<br /> <br /> ''FA Stuart Llewellyn 19/04/11''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Summertime Blues''' 15m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of ''Silent Fright''.<br /> <br /> ''P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Playground Twist''' 15m E2,5c *<br /> <br /> The crack just right of ''Summertime Blues''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Executioner’s Thrill''' 15m E4,6b *<br /> <br /> A good testpiece up the bold, technical arete right of ''Playground Twist''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''' 12m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner’s Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 02.08.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Lundy Tilting''' 15m E2,5c<br /> <br /> Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of ''The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman''. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the<br /> crack and arete to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 02.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''An Audience of Sheep''' 15m E5,6b<br /> <br /> The flying arete bounding the buttress on its right. Gain a ledge down and left of the arete and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arete, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 60m further along is a short slabby wall, recognised by a square-cut window-like notch at the top of the slab.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Wages of Sin''' 12m E4,6a<br /> <br /> A good pitch, following the slight groove up the left side of the slab.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''<br /> <br /> == Sea Level Crags ==<br /> === Rhossili Bay ===<br /> [[Image:Blackwall topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[Rhossili#Black Wall|Black Wall]]]]<br /> This is easiest reached by taking the beach path behind the Worms Head Hotel(marked on road) then walking left facing out to sea( S) along the beach towards the Worm and other lower crags.<br /> <br /> There are stakes in place at the top of some '''[[Rhossili#Sea Level Crags|sea level crags]]'''.<br /> <br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' Well there's lots there now!<br /> <br /> ====Black Wall====<br /> ''The short wall off the beach just before the shipwreck in the cove,strangely enough it's black.''<br /> #'''Thieving Parasites Fr 6?'''&lt;br&gt; Boulder up the barnacles easier above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wittle Thieving Lankers Fr?'''&lt;br&gt; Shares belay with previous,take a rock 7 if you are of a nervous disposition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fats Waller''' - Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt; Technical groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Route With Two Pockets''' - Fr. 7b&lt;br&gt; Big moves!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Black Adder''' - Fr. 6b+&lt;br&gt; Small then bigger holds.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Strongbow Flyer''' - Fr. 6a+&lt;br&gt; Tricky start.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Rum Thieves''' - Fr. 6a+&lt;br&gt; A better route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Shipwreck Cove====<br /> [[Image:Shipwreck topo.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]]]<br /> [[Image:Shipweck right.jpg|800px|thumb|right|[[#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove (Right)]]]]<br /> ''About one third of the way along the beach heading towards [[#Kitchen Corner|Kitchen Corner]] is a small cove with a wildly<br /> overhanging west wall. Two diagonal breaks trending left cut through the left side of this tidal wall.''<br /> <br /> #'''Stuart's Stolen Project Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Was a closed project stolen 17 may 2014..&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Mutiny Crack''' - E4 6a&lt;br&gt;Probably here? Follow line of large pods to roof then jam to the BB of ''Attrition''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Wrecking Ball''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;Bisects the following route.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Attrition''' - E5, 6a&lt;br&gt;Trad, 1997, by P.Littlejohn, bolt belay saves a 50 m loose top out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Marine Layer''' - Fr. 7a&lt;br&gt;The sporting diagonal, L.O. shared with ''Wrecking Ball''.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''One Ton Depot''' - Fr. 7b+&lt;br&gt;Crux at top.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Vennerne''' - Fr. 7c+&lt;br&gt;Steep.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Air Show''' - Fr. 8b&lt;br&gt;A former closed project of Adrians.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;''There is another closed project of Rob Lamey's beyond here and two very steep routes at the right hand end of the cave. Above these two route are several recently bolted &quot;closed works in progress&quot; awaiting the return of dry conditions.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Achilles Wrath''' - Fr. 8b&lt;br&gt;Super steep roof work, Chain L.O. above the cave lip.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''King George vs. The Suffragettes''' - Fr. 7a+&lt;br&gt;The right side of the roof via a steep boulder problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right wall of the cove are six completed routes.''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Blockiness''' - Fr. 6c+ ***&lt;br&gt;Brilliant steep climbing on (mainly) huge buckets. Tricky to read if unchalked.(a large block has parted from the start in overwinter storms so the grade may be altered).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Sand Man''' - Fr. 6b&lt;br&gt;The central groove line. Good off-balance climbing marred slightly by the corner which forms a sand chute.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Par 3''' - Fr. 6b+ **&lt;br&gt;Cracking wall climbing with good rests between steepenings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''no name yet''' - Fr. ? **&lt;br&gt;Just left of the high cave, start up the ramp.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''First Handout''' - Fr.?**&lt;br&gt;Gain the ramp continue to a niche with bealay above.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Hand Shandy''' - Fr.?+&lt;br&gt;Was a works in progress, to same belay as previous, now a stolen project! May be loose as not cleaned. [http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=275298 (see ukc logbooks 17 May 2014)]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt; Slab on Mermaid sector,crystal pocket at bulge.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Paternal Love Fr ?*'''&lt;br&gt;Left side of white tower.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad Fr ?**'''&lt;br&gt;Centre of tower.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty Fr ?**'''&lt;br&gt; The right arete.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 15.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly groove right of pillar.''R.Thomas R.Phillips 16.06.2014''&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''He wouldn't join This Vicar's Tea Party Fr ?'''&lt;br&gt;Step of block join route on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Castaway Cove====<br /> [[Image:Castaway cove2.jpg|center|thumb|1280px|[[Rhossili#Castaway Cove|Castaway Cove]]]]<br /> The cove containing the wreckage of the ship ''Vennerne''.<br /> <br /> #'''Dry Blood Beast - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Right hand side of bay, back wall, follow R side of cave. Crux bolt a bit low.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cinders Catch - Fr.6a'''&lt;br&gt;Barnacle start then sloping well separated holds lead to grubby upper section and chain above dusty ledge.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dirty Innuendo - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;After the usual barnacle start follow the wall then move LEFT to join preceding route and its ring belay. DO NOT go R to the single &quot;working non stainless bolt&quot; where someone has wimped out and left a carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Geez Louise - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Short wall almost at exit of bay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Project - Fr.6b'''&lt;br&gt;Steep cave around corner from Mermaid Cove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Mermaid Wall====<br /> Only a 5 hr tidal window(varies with neaps and springs)so take care not to get cut off(common sense really).Escape is possible up the easy scramble and vertical grass but not advisable for the uninitiated.<br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.4'''&lt;br&gt;The most L of the routes. A bit of an exposed walk from the last bolt to the shared belay on the right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crass Word Pizzle - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Landlubber - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Corner - Fr.6x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Ursula - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Caesg - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Turtle Apocolypse - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''No Father Day - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lara - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scurvey Dog - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Crimp Paddle - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''On the right of this gentle slabby section is an obvious square roofed cave and a white pillar.''<br /> #'''Paternal Love - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;The left arete of the pillar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Bye Dad Fr.6b **'''&lt;br.Harder,centre of pillar to same LO.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Filial Duty - Fr.5 *'''&lt;br&gt; The R arete.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fought To The End - Fr.5+'''&lt;br&gt;Hanging crozzly groove.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''This Vicar's Tea Party - Fr.6b+'''&lt;br&gt;Gnarly start stepping across from large boulder,then join route on right.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> #'''Stingray - Fr.6c*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Lemon Soul - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaid Tale - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Corner - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Dawsons Creek - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Fistful of Tenners - Fr.4*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Under the Mattress - Fr.6a+*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Cash in the Attic - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Holds May Spin - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Probate Pending - Fr.x*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Pysgod Wibblywobbly - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Names from Rogers Profanisorous - Fr.5+*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Al Perchino - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scuttle - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Trevena Fish Hotel - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''The Naughty Step*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Scarfish - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''A Mermaids Footwork - Fr.6b*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Flounder - Fr.X*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Somewhere in her Smile She Knows - Fr.6b+*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Besetting Fears - Fr.6a*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Horse Flavoured Shadows - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Left - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> #'''Triton Right - Fr.5*'''&lt;br&gt;XXX.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sheepbone Wall ===<br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A gem of a crag located immediately below the seaward arete of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]'''. Scramble down to some ledges about 12m above the sea and abseil down one of the corners to a platform. The right-hand one (when facing seaward) is<br /> ''Chimney Crack'', the left-hand one is ''Great Diedre''. At the base of ''Chimney crack'' is an oval pool and a blunt arete to the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''First Diedre''' 10m D<br /> <br /> Climb the groove to the left of the blunt arete.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Mauk Wall''' 10m S,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the steep wall right of the blunt arete and left of a prominent curving crack, passing a projecting block.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Curving Crack''' 10m HS,4b<br /> <br /> Climb the rightward-slanting crack.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Chimney Crack''' 10m VD *<br /> <br /> The obvious corner and chimney crack right of ''Curving Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Skull''' 10m HS,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the steep wall 1m right of ''Chimney Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Cross''' 12m D<br /> <br /> Climb Skull for 4m to a sloping ledge. Step right from this to finish up a square-cut groove.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Deep Cut''' 18m VD *<br /> <br /> Climb the wall 3m right of ''Cross'' to gain and finish up a steep crack.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Great Diedre''' 12m S,4a *<br /> <br /> The obvious black corner 6m right of ''Deep Cut''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 9. '''Yellow Edge''' 12m S *<br /> <br /> Start just right of ''Great Diedre''. Climb the right wall of the arete until a leftwards traverse to it can be made. Follow it to the top.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> &lt;!--Seems M. Crocker got this first. 10. ''' Swine Flew E2 '''<br /> <br /> Start just left of ''Great Diedre II'' and climb the wall via a thin diagonal left to right crack. Escapable but worthwhile. <br /> <br /> ''Chris Wyatt &amp; Steve Hill 15/7/09''<br /> --&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. '''Grated Wall''' 12 E1,5b<br /> <br /> Climb the crack in the left wall of ''Great Diedre 11'', finishing direct with difficulty.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 11. '''Great Diedre II''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb the corner 3m right of Yellow Edge, with a tricky overhang at 8m. A slight variant climbs the crack in the left wall (HVS,5b).<br /> <br /> ''C.Hird, G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1975''<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Pistas Canute''' 15m VS,4b *<br /> <br /> Climb the arete dividing Great Diedre II and ''Slanting Chimney'', coming in from the left.<br /> <br /> ''A.Beaton, C.Allen, M.Danford 00.00.1989''<br /> <br /> <br /> 13. '''Rhiannon’s Route''' 17m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> Gain the ''Pistas Canute'' arete from the right.<br /> <br /> ''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 14. '''Slanting Chimney''' 14m VD<br /> <br /> Ascend the obvious slanting crack.<br /> <br /> ''M.Harber Pre-1978''<br /> <br /> <br /> 15. '''Gambolling Gareth’s Arete''' 17m E1,5a *<br /> <br /> Gain the arete to the right from the right and climb it direct.<br /> <br /> ''A.Richardson, R.Lloyd, J.Beynon 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 16. '''Gamble there’s a Hold''' 10m E3,5c<br /> <br /> Approach from the right and follow the leftward-slanting crack right of Gambolling Gareth's Arete'' to a long, hard move where the crack closes.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS 03.09.2003)''<br /> <br /> <br /> 17. '''Recess Crack''' 17m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb the square-cut recess 6m right of Great Diedre II and then the crack splitting its back.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 18. '''Recess Arete''' 6m E1,5b <br /> <br /> Climb the short hanging black arete forming the right edge of the recess of ''Recess Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''M. Crocker - Onsight DWS - 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 19. '''Gamble There’s A Hold''' 16m E1,5b<br /> <br /> The back arete forming the right edge of the recess.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 20. '''Barnacle Ramp''' 17m D<br /> <br /> The rightwards-rising crack and ramp right of ''Recess Crack''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Beynon solo 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> <br /> 21. '''Deep Water Go Slow''' 17m E3,5b *<br /> <br /> The arete to the right.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker solo 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> At the right hand end of Sheepbone Wall is a cave. These two routes start from above the high water mark on a slabby ramp on the left.<br /> <br /> <br /> 22. '''Error’s Corner''' 9m E1,5b<br /> <br /> Climb the corner, swinging right to finish.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 23. '''Error Flynn''' 12m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Traverse fingerholds rightwards across the black wall above the cave to a crack. Follow the hairline crack and faint groove in the steepening wall to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> === Terrace Wall ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m south of '''[[Rhossili#Trial Wall|Trial Wall]]''' and '''[[Rhossili#Sheepbone Wall|Sheepbone Wall]]''' is an obvious terrace just above sea level, bounded on its right by a deep inlet. The route starts up the corner formed by the right (south) end of the terrace.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Zig Zag''' 15m VD<br /> <br /> Climb the corner to a ledge, then take a vague groove in the wall above on some wobbly jugs.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Pillar Edge''' 15m HS,4a<br /> <br /> Climb the left-hand arete of the inlet on its left side.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Central Gully''' 15m D<br /> <br /> The original line has been rationalised. Take the left-hand crack in the gully.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Slab And Crack''' 15m D<br /> <br /> Also rationalised. Climb the right-hand crack in the gully.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Deception''' 20m S<br /> <br /> Just right of the deep inlet is a crack and corner at half-height. Gain this by the pocketed slab below.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1968''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Deceit''' 20m S<br /> <br /> Gain and climb the less obvious corner to the right of ''Deception''.<br /> <br /> ''M.Harber 00.00.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Fisherman’s Bend''' 15m HS,4a<br /> <br /> The centre of the wall 20m right of ''Deceit''.<br /> <br /> ''J.Talbot 00.00.1972''<br /> <br /> === Sinister Sister Zawn ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 40m further along the beach towards the Worms Head &lt;!-- and below the white pole marking Lifebuoy Buttress,--&gt;is a<br /> narrow zawn with a large jammed boulder at its back. Access is by scrambling down on the north side of the zawn.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''My Favourite Colour''' 10m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Start from a flat back ledge 12m above the zawn bed above the jammed boulder. Scramble up a mucky rift, then<br /> access the pink soaring crack. Exit right from this.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 04.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Spacetalk''' 10m E2,5c<br /> <br /> From the top of the rift take the handrail rightwards to a commiting move onto a triangular hold gains the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> The next two routes start from the jammed boulder.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Pop Idol''' 18m E5,6b ***<br /> <br /> Swing right into the right-hand of two cracks. Climb this until it closes then undercut left to and into overhangs. Pull up, PR into a pink groove and follow this to the top.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''Pop-Eyed''' 18m E4,6a **<br /> <br /> The crack and roofs right ot ''Pop Idol''. The first ascensionist route description makes no sense, so good luck!<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 03.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5. '''Splash And Grab''' 18m E6,6b *<br /> <br /> The tapering wall to the right. Swing right from the boulder and move down the right hand crack to a horizontal break. Follow this right for 2m. Follow the black face above, trending slightly right to the left hand side of the arete (hex). Reach left to good holds and pockets in the thin upper wall. Gear is very specific.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker 07.09.2003''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Sinister Sister''' 21m E4,5c<br /> <br /> Follow the arete 5m right of the jammed boulder to the break. Arrange protection and continue up the arete and<br /> groove, TR.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.03.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Wiggly Woo''' 21m HS,4b<br /> <br /> Climb the gully and obvious narrow pillar right of Sinister Sister. Some poor rock.<br /> <br /> ''J.Beynon, R.Lloyd, A.Richardson 00.00.1992''<br /> <br /> === Evening Wall ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> 60m south of '''[[Rhossili#Sinister Sister Zawn|Sinister Sister Zawn]]''' is a yellow wall with a distinctive calcite patch and a large ledge at half-height to the right. The first climb starts from the beach or when the sea is in can be reached by belaying from the large ledge on the right and stepping down a couple of meters to a high tide mark ledge. Either way you gain a small ledge 2m below a wide crack. The best belay is 30m up the bank!<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Hey Mr Blue Sky''' 18m E1,5b <br /> <br /> Cimb the wide crack to pass the ledge on the right. An awkward move gains the chockstone. Pull up onto the<br /> headwall and over the bulge, In place of the old peg, a nut can be used in a crack to the right to protect the friable finishing moves.<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies, P.Bruten, P.Thomas 09.06.1986''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Banana Split''' 12m E2,5c<br /> <br /> Start at the large ledge at half-height on the right. Post rock fall this route offers technical climbing with no protection at all until a nut can be placed where the old peg was at 8m (shared with previous route). Ascend the groove on the left side of the ledge until a hard move gains the upper wall. Move right, making thin moves to finish directly. <br /> <br /> ''P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.00.1986''<br /> <br /> === Yellow Zawn ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> &lt;!-- 80m along the upper cliff path from the white pole or along the beach from Sinister Sister Zawn, is a deep zawn with a cave at its back containing a 20m high, north-facing wall with a yellow arete. Descend by an easy scramble. --&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Turning Japanese 18m E5,6a *<br /> <br /> A route for Cyclone Rangers. Start at a large boulder. Climb a finger crack to a horizontal break then traverse right to a good slot on the yellow arete. Climb its left side.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Banzai!''' 15m E4,6a<br /> <br /> Place bets now! A fine steep little route. Climb the arete easily to a sloping ledge. Make hard moves up a thin<br /> crack into a groove. Finish up a black wall heading slightly right.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> <br /> 60m right of ''Yellow Zawn'' and below An ''Audience of Sheep'' are three pillars, seen when looking out to sea. The<br /> following route climbs the sheer south west wall on the middle pillar.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''The Secret''' 17m E5,6b **<br /> <br /> A direct line taking the centre of the smooth wall. Abseil to a good ledge at 3m, or scramble in at low water. Climb leftwards, then back right on white crystal rock, passing a poor PR with difficulty, to the horizontal break. Take the centre of the wall to finish.<br /> <br /> ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987''<br /> <br /> === The Platform Area ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> These routes lie on a small rock promontory, directly below the prominent arete of An Audience of Sheep and north of and parallel to the very obvious large flat sea level platform. Approach is best made by following a path down to a good platform, on the south side of the promontory.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Avoid Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War''' 40m VS,4a,4c,- **<br /> <br /> When deep water soloing the sea is normally used for protection. Here it is used as a hold. High tide is essential. Best soloed for obvious reasons.<br /> # 15m Drop down into the v-groove below the end of the path and traverse left at a low level under an obvious arete. Step up to belay in the through-cave.<br /> # 12m Crawl through the through cave, then traverse the left wall (looking out to sea) to a platform on the arete.<br /> # 13m Jump into the sea, at the lowest point of the buttress, swim across the zawn and finish easily up the wall on the far side of the zawn. (The leap can be made from the belay stance instead for added underwater time as The Leap Of Faith Finish).<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.07.1989''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Stardust''' 24m HS,4a **<br /> <br /> A classic little pitch. Follow A''void Meeting The Portuguese Man Of War'' until 5m before the arete visible from the start. Pull up over an overlap, then move left to gain cracks just right of the arete. Follow these to finish. <br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 18.10.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Year of The Snail''' 24m VS,4b *<br /> <br /> Start as for ''Stardust'' but continue up the centre of the wall.<br /> <br /> ''M.Ward 16.08.1987''<br /> <br /> === Poser Buttress ===<br /> <br /> '''BOLT POLICY:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> A deep square-cut zawn 30m on, with a smooth south-facing wall containing four cracks. These are gained by abseil to a hanging stance. There is a big mooring ring can be used (just right of Splash Landing). Alternatively start from the floor of the zawn ¾ hour either side of low water. The routes on the greasy south wall will have to be done this way.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''North Wall'''<br /> <br /> 1. '''Normal Service''' 20m VS,4b<br /> <br /> The most seaward crack.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Splash Landing''' 20m HVS,5a<br /> <br /> The next crack to the right (landwards).<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.12.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. '''Dicky Five Stones''' 20m E3,5c *<br /> <br /> Good. From the mooring ring, climb the wall between ''Splash Landing'' and ''The Poser''.<br /> <br /> ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990''<br /> <br /> <br /> 4. '''The Poser''' 20m E1,5b **<br /> <br /> The third crack right from the sea. Good.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 5.''' Burning Rubber''' 20m E2,5b<br /> <br /> The fourth crack.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.05.1982''<br /> <br /> '''South Wall'''<br /> <br /> <br /> 6. '''Chlorophyll Corner''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> Climb a corner crack opposite ''Burning Rubber'', near the back of the gully.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, A.Sharp, D.Hillier 27.06.1982''<br /> <br /> <br /> 7. '''Lobster Song''' 15m E2,5b<br /> <br /> Start directly up the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', swing left and climb the slab, TR.<br /> <br /> ''L.Davies 00.00.1988''<br /> <br /> <br /> 8. '''Cincinatti Kid''' 15m VS,4c<br /> <br /> The crack just round the arete right of ''Chlorophyll Corner'', in a narrow wall facing out of the gully.<br /> <br /> ''T.Penning, D.Hillier, A.Sharp 27.06.1981''<br /> <br /> <br /> === Kitchen Corner ===<br /> <br /> '''Bolt Policy:''' No bolting.<br /> <br /> The deep inlet at the end of the mainland. Access is by continuing along the bottom of the upper cliff line to reach easy ledges. The routes have not been checked for this guide and require abseil escapes.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. '''Dove Crack''' 12m M<br /> <br /> The wide chimney in the back of the cove.<br /> <br /> ''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. '''Kitchen Slab''' 12m HS<br /> <br /> The slab in the upper part of the cliff is gained and followed.<br /> <br /> ''D.Jones, R.Owen, J.Edwards 00.00.1958''</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Talk:Meadow_Street_-_Treforest&diff=16904 2014-08-03T10:48:36Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>Anyone know who the first accessionist is? Any history to this route? --[[User:Steven Delaney|Del]] 20:12, 5 December 2009 (UTC)<br /> <br /> Can general wiki users no longer upload photos or am I missing something? Thanks Dave.</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Meadow_Street_-_Treforest&diff=16903 2014-08-03T10:38:16Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Contents]]<br /> <br /> [[Bouldering]]<br /> <br /> == Preamble ==<br /> <br /> Part of the old factory at the end of 'Meadow Street' lies a single route on some old block type bricks. <br /> <br /> == Access ==<br /> <br /> From Treforest rail station, turn into John St and finally Meadow Street. At the far end of Meadow Street there is a 20m wall located on the right of the road. <br /> <br /> 51°35'3.95&quot;N / 3°19'3.90&quot;W<br /> <br /> == Routes ==<br /> <br /> The wall yields one bolted route, with a lower off, that can please some. Some might find the bolts a bit far apart!<br /> <br /> [[Image:Meadow Street.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Meadow Street]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=15272 2013-07-09T20:09:16Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionist's permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry==VAGINISMUS WALL++<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4 - Hard Days Night''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5 - Norwegian Wood''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Stiff little number Fr 6a+ **'''The prominent dry rib soaring above the ash stumps.17m R. Thomas D. Emanuel July 2013<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Nine Iron 6a''' D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013<br /> <br /> Deeply undercut start on face left of arete. <br /> <br /> 9. '''Gift from Zeus 5+''' D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. Another deeply undercut start.<br /> <br /> 10. '''Bungles Phallic Skeleton 6a''' D. Emanuel, R. Thomas July 2013<br /> <br /> Balance up the scoop to the right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''The Wilter Of Our Discontent''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Hard Times''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall<br /> <br /> [[Image:Priapism Arete.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Priapism Arete]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14462 2013-03-16T19:22:21Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4 - Hard Days Night''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5 - Norwegian Wood''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7 - Creosote (Wood Preservative)''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Bungles Phallic Skeleton Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall<br /> <br /> [[Image:Priapism Arete.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Priapism Arete]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14450 2013-03-12T15:37:45Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4 - Hard Days Night''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5 - Norwegian Wood''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7 - Creosote (Wood Preservative)''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall<br /> <br /> [[Image:Priapism Arete.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Priapism Arete]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Talk:Machen&diff=14449 2013-03-12T15:36:34Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>What's in a name ?Is this because it always a hard on to find?<br /> --[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 14:53, 11 March 2013 (GMT)<br /> <br /> This is no laughing matter - apparently they are very painful once the novelty wears off.</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=File:Priapism_Arete.jpg&diff=14441 2013-03-11T14:00:33Z

<p>David Emanuel: uploaded a new version of &amp;quot;File:Priapism Arete.jpg&amp;quot;</p> <hr /> <div></div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=File:Priapism_Arete.jpg&diff=14440 2013-03-11T13:54:29Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14439 2013-03-11T13:53:21Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall<br /> <br /> [[Image:Priapism Arete.jpg|350 px|thumb|right|Priapism Arete]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14436 2013-03-11T12:27:06Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage. If the waterfall areas ever freeze the venue may offer bolted ice-climbing?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14435 2013-03-11T12:25:46Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Gully<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14434 2013-03-11T12:23:46Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14433 2013-03-11T12:23:20Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s. Some of the routes will suffer seasonal seepage.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14432 2013-03-11T12:22:51Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> <br /> Priapism Buttress<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project 11''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 12''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble up seasonal waterfall<br /> <br /> 12. '''Project 13''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route to leaning wall</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=South_East_Wales_Sandstone&diff=14431 2013-03-11T12:19:16Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:sandstone1.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Heather moorland above [[Ridgeway|The Ridgeway]].]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[Map Of Gower and SE Wales]]'''<br /> <br /> If you are not familiar with the sandstone quarries of the [[wikipedia:South Wales Coalfield|South Wales Coalfield]] the following should be noted:<br /> <br /> The sandstone rock texture ranges from moderately soft and sandy ([[Llanbradach]] &amp; [[Sirhowy]]) to hard and crystalline ([[Cwmaman]], [[Mountain Ash]]) with some natural edges similar to gritstone (Penallta). Whichever type you encounter there is a chance that small flakes and edges will snap off, even on well travelled routes, fortunately most of the routes are sensibly bolted for this unlikely eventuality. <br /> <br /> The typical sandstone season extends from Easter to October, during the winter there are limited chances to find dry rock (exceptions can include [[Navigation Quarry]], the slabs at the [[Darren]], left wall of lower quarry of [[The Gap]], [[Penallta]], [[Coed Ely]], [[Trehafod]] and [[Trebanog]]). After periods of prolonged heavy rain most of the crags require a drying off period, even during the summer.<br /> <br /> As with other inland areas midges are problematic during late spring and summer. The worst affected crags have standing water nearby or are located in dense woodland and should generally be avoided after 7.00pm (i.e. [[Llanbradach]], [[The Darren]], [[Cwm Dimbath]]).<br /> <br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; align=&quot;center&quot; style=&quot; width:100%; height:200px&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; <br /> <br /> |+ '''CRAGS BY RATING SYSTEM'''<br /> |-<br /> ! The Best<br /> ! The Rest<br /> ! Je Déteste<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> *'''[[Abbey Buttress]]'''<br /> *'''[[Bargoed]]'''<br /> *'''[[Crymlyn Quarries]]'''<br /> *'''[[Cwmaman]]'''<br /> *'''[[Darren, The]]'''<br /> *'''[[Deri]]''' &amp;Dagger;<br /> *'''[[Edwardsville (X1)]]''' BANNED! DO NOT ACCESS<br /> *'''[[Gap, The]]'''<br /> *'''[[Llanbradach]]'''<br /> *'''[[Mountain Ash]]'''<br /> *'''[[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd]]'''<br /> *'''[[Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr]]'''<br /> *'''[[Tirpentwys]]'''<br /> *'''[[Trebanog]]'''<br /> <br /> &amp;Dagger; - Could be really good with rebolting / cleaning<br /> <br /> | <br /> *[[Blaenllechau]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *[[Brombil Woods Crag]]<br /> *[[Coed Ely]] <br /> *[[Craig Tyle-Cam]]<br /> *[[Craig y Pal-Glais]]<br /> *[[Cwm Dimbath]] &amp;dagger;<br /> *[[Dan Dicks]]<br /> *[[Dyfryn Woods Crag]]<br /> *[[Ferndale]]<br /> *[[Gelli]]<br /> *[[Gimp Cliff]]<br /> *[[Glynfach]]<br /> *[[Graig Fawr]]<br /> *[[New Crag 2]]<br /> *[[Oakdale]]<br /> *[[Penallta]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *[[Ridgeway]]<br /> *[[Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy]]<br /> *[[Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry]]<br /> *[[Sugardaddy Gasworks]]<br /> *[[Trehafod]] <br /> *[[Tyle y Coch]] &amp;dagger;<br /> <br /> &amp;dagger; - Could be good with rebolting / cleaning<br /> | <br /> <br /> *''[[Abercynon High Buttress]]''<br /> *''[[Cefnpennar]]''<br /> *''[[Cefnstylle Quarry]]'' [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *''[[Clydach Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Craig Y Priapism]]''<br /> *''[[Crosskeys Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Crumlin (X3)]]''<br /> *''[[Cwmcarn]]''<br /> *''[[Cwm Park Street]]''<br /> *''[[Graigola]]''<br /> *''[[Henllys Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Lewistown]]''<br /> *''[[Llwynypia]]''<br /> *''[[Mount Pleasant (X2)]]'' <br /> *''[[Neath Abbey Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[New Tredegar]]''<br /> *''[[Penrhiwceiber Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Punk Rocks]]''<br /> *''[[Skull Rocks]]''<br /> *''[[Swffryd Wood Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Ton Pentre]]''<br /> *''[[Ynysybwl Quarry]]''<br /> <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> The best crags for a first visit are:<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[The Gap]]''' - A good spread of fingery vertical routes between Fr.5+ and Fr.7c.<br /> <br /> '''[[The Darren]]''' - Steep routes between Fr.6c+ and Fr.7b+ with a few good warm ups on the slabs.<br /> <br /> '''[[Trebanog]]''' - Predominantly short traditional climbs on solid rock with reasonable protection.<br /> <br /> '''[[Navigation]]''' - A mix of trad and sport on slabs, a nice location.<br /> <br /> '''[[Tirpentwys]]''' - Grades between Fr.4 and Fr.7b+ (mainly in the lower end of the spectrum).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[List of Sandstone Crags]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14430 2013-03-11T12:18:38Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. Project 3 R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10'''<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble<br /> <br /> 12. Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=Machen&diff=14429 2013-03-11T12:18:22Z

<p>David Emanuel: Created page with &quot;'''Craig y Priapism Fawr3'' ==Bolting Policy== Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. ==Preamble== A new venue under development...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism Fawr3''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. Project 3 R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10'''<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble<br /> <br /> 12. Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=South_East_Wales_Sandstone&diff=14428 2013-03-11T12:17:41Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:sandstone1.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Heather moorland above [[Ridgeway|The Ridgeway]].]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[Map Of Gower and SE Wales]]'''<br /> <br /> If you are not familiar with the sandstone quarries of the [[wikipedia:South Wales Coalfield|South Wales Coalfield]] the following should be noted:<br /> <br /> The sandstone rock texture ranges from moderately soft and sandy ([[Llanbradach]] &amp; [[Sirhowy]]) to hard and crystalline ([[Cwmaman]], [[Mountain Ash]]) with some natural edges similar to gritstone (Penallta). Whichever type you encounter there is a chance that small flakes and edges will snap off, even on well travelled routes, fortunately most of the routes are sensibly bolted for this unlikely eventuality. <br /> <br /> The typical sandstone season extends from Easter to October, during the winter there are limited chances to find dry rock (exceptions can include [[Navigation Quarry]], the slabs at the [[Darren]], left wall of lower quarry of [[The Gap]], [[Penallta]], [[Coed Ely]], [[Trehafod]] and [[Trebanog]]). After periods of prolonged heavy rain most of the crags require a drying off period, even during the summer.<br /> <br /> As with other inland areas midges are problematic during late spring and summer. The worst affected crags have standing water nearby or are located in dense woodland and should generally be avoided after 7.00pm (i.e. [[Llanbradach]], [[The Darren]], [[Cwm Dimbath]]).<br /> <br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot; align=&quot;center&quot; style=&quot; width:100%; height:200px&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; <br /> <br /> |+ '''CRAGS BY RATING SYSTEM'''<br /> |-<br /> ! The Best<br /> ! The Rest<br /> ! Je Déteste<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> *'''[[Abbey Buttress]]'''<br /> *'''[[Bargoed]]'''<br /> *'''[[Crymlyn Quarries]]'''<br /> *'''[[Cwmaman]]'''<br /> *'''[[Darren, The]]'''<br /> *'''[[Deri]]''' &amp;Dagger;<br /> *'''[[Edwardsville (X1)]]''' BANNED! DO NOT ACCESS<br /> *'''[[Gap, The]]'''<br /> *'''[[Llanbradach]]'''<br /> *'''[[Mountain Ash]]'''<br /> *'''[[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd]]'''<br /> *'''[[Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr]]'''<br /> *'''[[Tirpentwys]]'''<br /> *'''[[Trebanog]]'''<br /> <br /> &amp;Dagger; - Could be really good with rebolting / cleaning<br /> <br /> | <br /> *[[Blaenllechau]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *[[Brombil Woods Crag]]<br /> *[[Coed Ely]] <br /> *[[Craig Tyle-Cam]]<br /> *[[Craig y Pal-Glais]]<br /> *[[Cwm Dimbath]] &amp;dagger;<br /> *[[Dan Dicks]]<br /> *[[Dyfryn Woods Crag]]<br /> *[[Ferndale]]<br /> *[[Gelli]]<br /> *[[Gimp Cliff]]<br /> *[[Glynfach]]<br /> *[[Graig Fawr]]<br /> *[[New Crag 2]]<br /> *[[Oakdale]]<br /> *[[Penallta]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *[[Ridgeway]]<br /> *[[Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy]]<br /> *[[Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry]]<br /> *[[Sugardaddy Gasworks]]<br /> *[[Trehafod]] <br /> *[[Tyle y Coch]] &amp;dagger;<br /> <br /> &amp;dagger; - Could be good with rebolting / cleaning<br /> | <br /> <br /> *''[[Abercynon High Buttress]]''<br /> *''[[Cefnpennar]]''<br /> *''[[Cefnstylle Quarry]]'' [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]<br /> *''[[Clydach Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Craig Y Priapism]]''<br /> *''[[Crosskeys Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Crumlin (X3)]]''<br /> *''[[Cwmcarn]]''<br /> *''[[Cwm Park Street]]''<br /> *''[[New Crag 3]]''<br /> *''[[Graigola]]''<br /> *''[[Henllys Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Lewistown]]''<br /> *''[[Llwynypia]]''<br /> *''[[Mount Pleasant (X2)]]'' <br /> *''[[Neath Abbey Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[New Tredegar]]''<br /> *''[[Penrhiwceiber Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Punk Rocks]]''<br /> *''[[Skull Rocks]]''<br /> *''[[Swffryd Wood Quarry]]''<br /> *''[[Ton Pentre]]''<br /> *''[[Ynysybwl Quarry]]''<br /> <br /> <br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> The best crags for a first visit are:<br /> <br /> <br /> '''[[The Gap]]''' - A good spread of fingery vertical routes between Fr.5+ and Fr.7c.<br /> <br /> '''[[The Darren]]''' - Steep routes between Fr.6c+ and Fr.7b+ with a few good warm ups on the slabs.<br /> <br /> '''[[Trebanog]]''' - Predominantly short traditional climbs on solid rock with reasonable protection.<br /> <br /> '''[[Navigation]]''' - A mix of trad and sport on slabs, a nice location.<br /> <br /> '''[[Tirpentwys]]''' - Grades between Fr.4 and Fr.7b+ (mainly in the lower end of the spectrum).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[List of Sandstone Crags]]</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=New_Crag_3&diff=14410 2013-03-09T17:55:10Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Craig y Priapism Fawr3''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. Project 3 R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10'''<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble<br /> <br /> 12. Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=New_Crag_3&diff=14409 2013-03-09T17:51:00Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''New Crag 3'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 3. Project 3 R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble up corner<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Scramble left ward on rib to corner<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Isolated rib located between damp rock. Pass roof to right. Roof may go direct<br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Priapism Arete<br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete. Undercut start.<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Arete on its left side to lower off on right. <br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' <br /> <br /> Balance climbing to right of arête.<br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10'''<br /> <br /> Ascent of prominent tower<br /> <br /> 11. '''Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky scramble<br /> <br /> 12. Project R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Rightward route</div>

David Emanuel https://swmc.org.uk/g_book/index.php?title=New_Crag_3&diff=14400 2013-03-08T22:48:35Z

<p>David Emanuel: </p> <hr /> <div>'''New Crag 3'''<br /> <br /> ==Bolting Policy==<br /> <br /> Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preamble==<br /> <br /> A new venue under development. A compact crag destine to contain mostly Fr.5s<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Access==<br /> <br /> (NGR: E: xxxxxx,N: xxxxxx)<br /> <br /> ==Descent==<br /> <br /> All routes will have lower-offs.<br /> ==Routes==<br /> <br /> <br /> Steep Face in Left of Quarry<br /> <br /> 1. '''Project 1''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> 2. '''Project 2''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Blocky Corner<br /> <br /> 3. '''Project 3''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> 4. '''Project 4''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Rib<br /> <br /> 5. '''Project 5''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Face right of Rib <br /> <br /> 6. '''Project 6''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Arete<br /> <br /> 7. '''Project 7''' D. Emanuel<br /> <br /> Left of Arete<br /> <br /> 8. '''Project 8''' R. Thomas<br /> <br /> Arete<br /> <br /> 9. '''Project 9''' <br /> <br /> Right of arete<br /> <br /> 10. '''Project 10'''<br /> <br /> Tower<br /> <br /> 11. '''Priapism'''<br /> <br /> Right Hand Faces</div>

David Emanuel