SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn

2011-08-01T12:54:50Z

Dan Carroll: /* Third Sister */

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
The Three Sisters are non-tidal. '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''' 4 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
See individual crags.

== PREAMBLE ==
This is a seldom frequented area of Gower, with some further potential for development - although this will require some dedicated trundling! The main crags of interest are the steep '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' and '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''', with the best quality rock and some very good E2-E5s. Of the other crags, there are a few easier routes that would be good if a little time was spent removing some (small but numerous) blocks. The crags are described from west to east, as they are approached from '''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
51.557763, -4.264955
~'''[[Rams Grove Area#Saddam's Wall|Saddam's Wall]]'''
~51.557763, -4.264955
~;

51.556171, -4.268079
~'''[[Rams Grove Area#Rams Grove Crag|Rams Grove Crag]]'''
~51.556171, -4.268079
~;

51.553834, -4.263359
~'''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah's Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]'''
~51.553834, -4.263359
~;

51.554057, -4.263057
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]
~51.554057, -4.263057
~;

51.555300, -4.265838
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#First Sister|First Sister]]
~51.555300, -4.265838
~;

51.555061, -4.265686
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Second Sister|Second Sister]]
~51.555061, -4.265686
~;

51.554436, -4.264437
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Sister 2 and Half|Sister 2 and Half]]
~51.554436, -4.264437
~;

51.553830, -4.261632
~'''[[Deborah's Overhang Area]]'''
~51.553830, -4.261632 ''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#The Knave|The Knave]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#The Tooth Fairy Area|The Tooth Fairy Area]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#Deborah's Overhang|Deborah's Overhang]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#Seaspit Small Cove|Seaspit Small Cove]]'' 
~;

51.567203, -4.260779
~'''Pitton Cross - Camping'''
~51.567203, -4.260779 
'''Contact:''' '''Tel :''' 01792 390 593 
'''Fax :''' 01792 391010 
'''email :''' admin@pittoncross.co.uk 
'''For:''' [[Paviland]], 
[[Juniper Wall]], 
Mewslade, Fall Bay, 
[[Deborah's Overhang Area]]
~File:Camp.png;

51.561586, -4.242797
~'''Pilton Green - Parking - Free'''
~51.561586, -4.242797 
Grass strip at the side of a track. Don't get bogged! 
'''For''' [[Paviland]] 
[[Juniper Wall]]
~File:Parking.png;

51.565848, -4.270856
~'''Pitton - Parking'''
~Honesty Box 
For: [[Thurba Head]] 
Mewslade 
[[Jacky's Tor]] 
[[Grey Wall]] 
[[Catacomb Gully]] 
Fall Bay 
[[Deborah's Overhang]] 
[[Three Sisters]]
~File:Parking.png
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing

}}
'''1. Pitton Approach'''

Approach from Pitton as for ''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''. At the seaward end of the valley of Rams Grove, turn left (west) to a good path that runs all the way along the cliff, scrambling up to each sister in turn. The path crosses a very rickety fence above a steep zawn below the [[Third Sister]]. The steep zawn is [[Deborah’s Zawn]], accessed by scrambling down its east (left when facing seaward) side.

'''2. Paviland Approach'''

As for [[Paviland]] to the dry valley where the sea becomes visible. From the stile at the landward end of the valley, cross a stile on the right (west) leading up to a higher level. Pass over two further stiles to reach a dry valley, with a rotten pinnacle visible on the far side (this leads down to the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Overhang Area|Deborah's Overhang Area]]'''). Instead of dropping down the valley with the pinnacle, continue up to the next spur. On the far side of this, a zig zag track leads down a faint gully and towards the sea. This leads to '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' in about 60m.

== DESCENTS ==
Scramble down easily and obviously from the '''[[Three Sisters]]'''. For '''[[Deborah’s Zawn]]''', either abseil or lower off. For some routes this requires a hanging rope.

== THE ROUTES ==
=== First Sister ===
GR 430865

'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''The First Sister is a compact cliff just east of the '''[[Rams Grove]]''' valley. It has an overhanging face with a snaking crack
line in the centre (''Sister of Mercy''), whilst to the right is a Y-shaped depression.''

'''1. Mercy, Mercy, Mercy 21m E5,6a *'''

Start 4m left of the snaking crack at a tiny niche at 2m. Move up to place good wires in an incipient crackline, then make fingery moves right to a little black scoop. Swing left to a break, surmount the bulge above, PR and continue to a crack. Take the crack to the top, taking care with the exit move.

''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''

'''2. Sister of Mercy 21m E4,6a *'''

The clean, snaking crackline in the centre of the buttress. Climb steeply to the second of 2PRs. Climb the groove to an easier crack, which leads to the top on dubious rock.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 1pt 21.06.1987''

''FFA A.Price 00.09.1988''

'''3. Paparazzi Blues 21m E6,6b *'''

A pump out taking the bulging rib overhanging the start of Sister Of Mercy. Follow ''Sister Of Mercy'' to a jug 1m above the first PR. Break out right with difficulty to vertical cracks in the rib. Climb the rib on its right side, exiting slightly right over a bulge.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''

'''4. The Angst Of Anti-Fashion 21m E5,6b *'''

Climb the y-shaped depression at the right side of the cliff to reach a bulge forming the inverted crotch of the Y. Traverse left between overhangs to a hanging groove and pull up strenuously right, PR. Escape up a short flake.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''

'''5. South East Wall 21m E1,5b'''

As for ''The Angst of Anti-Fashion'', but from the bulge take the right-hand arm.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1966''

''FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1984''

'''6. Solitary Brother 21m E3,6b'''

The rib to the right of ''South East Wall''. Pull straight over the bulge and step immediately left to reach a thin flake crack. Climb the rib to the traverse of ''South East Wall'' and finish with difficulty.

''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''

=== Second Sister ===
[[Image:Second_sister.jpg|600px|thumb|right|'''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Second Sister|Second Sister]]''']]
GR 430866

'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''This is the buttress immediately east of the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#First Sister|First Sister]]'''. It has an attractive slabby south wall, but is not quite as good as it appears when viewed from its east side. Some of the routes would be pretty good if anyone were prepared to do a little trundling. The most obvious feature is the prominent fin of ''Finnmark''. The first two routes more or less end at a shoulder at 18m, where it is possible to scramble off left. The rest of the routes go to the top of the cliff.''

1.''' Barney Rubble 18m VD'''

Climb loose rock left of the fin of rock at the left side of the crag.

''C.Allen, solo 00.00.1987''

2. '''Finnmark 18m E2,5b'''

From the ledge at the start of ''Barney Rubble'', swing right round the arete to the obvious groove of ''South Wall''. Move up and stretch left to the fin edge. Climb the right side to the top. An obvious, but disappointing route.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

3. '''South Wall Variation 28m VS,4c *'''

Gain the groove of ''South Wall'' as for ''Finnmark'', but continue as for ''South Wall'' itself.

''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1989''

4. '''South Wall 33m VS,4c'''

Might be worth a star if it was trundled at the start. Start at the right edge of the ledge running across the start of the wall proper. Make a leftward-rising traverse to reach the corner crack and follow this to a ledge. Finish through the small overlap above the groove.

''E.Pardoe, J.Talbot 00.00.1969''

5. '''Arrow 33m HVS,5a'''

Supersedes an earlier indirect route, ''Harrow'' (''P.Kokelaar, G.Williams 1969''). Climb the lower slabs just right of the start of ''South Wall'', via a slanting crack line to gain the overhangs. Overcome these to gain the top.

''G.Evans, P.Clay 18.10.1981''

6. '''Topless Admirers 33m HVS,5a'''

This takes a line of slabs and grooves 2m right of ''South Wall''.

''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.04.1987''

7. '''Sister Sledge 33m E1,5a'''

Start as for Topless Admirers, then finish up the obvious grooves further right.

''G.Lewis, P.Thomas, A.Richardson 00.00.1988''

The crag has an eastern side wall.

8. '''Sister Bliss 13m E5,6b'''

Start at the left end of the broken ledge running beneath the wall. Take the obvious leftward-rising overlap to gain a shallow hanging groove, TR. Finish directly on flakes up the leaning wall.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

9. '''Bloodbond 12m E1,5b'''

Start as for ''Sister Bliss'', then follow an intermittent crack on honeycombed rock right of a grey flake. Proceed directly on flakes up the unlikely wall above to the top, avoiding premature escapes into the groove on the right.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

10. '''Sleuth 12m E3,5c'''

Take the concave slab (sic) above the middle of the ledge beneath the wall. Follow a very slight, overhanging flake a little leftwards onto the slab. Go directly up from an undercut onto the easier angled slab, keeping just left of the groove on the right. Exit with care.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

=== Sister 2 and Half ===
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''To the east (right) of the [[Second Sister]] is a compact wall at a high level. The routes peter out quite quickly and a preplaced belay rope will help mitigate the full horrors of a top out.''

1. '''The Wettest April Since Records Began''' 18m E3,5c

Near the left-hand end of the cliff is a brown coloured crack. A few metres to the right is a slim groove in the grey wall leading up to the left of a jutting overhang. Climb the groove to a short flake crack below a bulge. Move right and through the bulge. Finish up an easier broken groove.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

''The cliff now continues right, looking fairly blank and featureless in its lower half until an orange niche at 6m, some 9m from the right edge of the cliff. The next route takes the leaning wall left of the niche.''

2. '''Sisterly Luv''' 15m E5,6a

Follow the junction of the grey streak and white rock past Bristol PRs to a bulge. Overcome this to a crack leading rightwards to an overhang, a short groove on the right and a wobbly exit to the ledge.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

3. '''The Beverly Sisters''' 15m E3,5c

Start below and slightly to the right of the orange niche. Make committing moves into the niche and continue up the crack and wall to join ''Sisterly Luv'' at the overhang.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

4. '''In Between Sisters 15m E4,6a'''

Start 4m left of a rubble zone at the right end of the wall. Move up to a small pocket on the smooth grey wall (crucial Rock 5 placement). Step right and move up on scoops to a bulge (TRs possible). Surmount the bulge direct. Abseil off at the top of the good rock.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

=== Third Sister ===
GR 432863
[[Image:Third sister.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Third Sister]]
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.''

''Situated 5 mins walk east of the [[Second Sister]], this is a series of solid bulging and overhanging walls rising in a leftwards direction above the loose lower section. The starts of the left-hand routes involve exposure out of context with their length. Apart from ''Sexploration'' all the routes start from a grass terrace running up left at two-thirds height from just above a rickety fence. The most obvious feature is the shallow cave 4m up ''French Undressing'', but beware, the nest is thought to belong to a Pterodactyl. The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains ''Sexploration''.''

Many of the routes have been re-geared to a high standard (2009).

The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains two lines:

1. '''Harriet Harman & the Lehman Sisters - Fr.6c+'''

This is the line left of Sexploration on the lower tier. First bolt is a long way up, and the hanger is missing.

2. '''Sexploration - E4, 5c'''

Start 30m left of the wooden fence below the Sister. Climb the broken wall to intersect an incipient crack in the white wall. Gain a good square-cut hold. Undercut over the bulge above and pull onto the hanging slab. Continue to good cracks and finish easily. Belay on the terrace, and scramble to the top of the cliff via a short chimney. 30m

''The routes on the main crag are described from left to right, starting at the top of the terrace.''

3. '''Do Be Doo - E3, 6a *'''

Take the bulging wall a few metres right of the boulder blocking the top of the terrace, below a vague arete, PR. 10m

4. '''Chilean Flame Thrower - Fr.7b/7b+ *'''

A route for boulderers. The steep wall between Doo Be Doo and Fire In Their Eyes is quite intense to the break. 10m

5. '''Fire In Their Eyes - E6, 6b *'''

Start right of ''Do Be Doo'' and just left of ''Flaming Fingers''. From a ragged pocket swing up the overhanging wall rightwards, PR. Pinch a rib (Friend 2), then move strenuously up to a leftwards pull PR, to the break. Continue to the top past a final PR. 10m

6. '''Flaming Fingers - E5, 6b *'''

Start at a seat-like feature about 9m below the top of the terrace running up the crag, below a low PR. Power up this wall, 3PRs, to hit the chossy break. Step 3m left, and make a tricky move up into a thin flake crack to finish. 18m

7. '''World In Action - Fr.7b+ *'''

About halfway down the ramp follow a series of PRs and tats leading up the wall. Totally desperate. 18m

8. '''Popped In, Souled Out - Fr.7b'''

A bouldery route with a good rest above the first roof. Start just right of ''World In Action''. 21m

9. '''Chilean Flame Flower - E6, 6c'''

A desperate pitch up the leaning and reachy wall just right of ''Popped In, Souled Out'', below a high PR. Climb the wall, with a very bold first clip and nightmare moves, second PR, to eventually gain the break at a worryingly loose block. Step a little right and pull easily up the headwall to finish. 15m

[[File:Mateusz web.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Mateusz Andrzejewski on The Enema Affair]]

10. '''French Undressing - F6c+ *'''

Start below the right side of the pterodactyl cave at 4m. Climb awkwardly up to this via 2 bolts, and stand up. Make the tricky crux moves upwards and follow a vague groove to the top. Lower off well back on the wall of the 4th tier 18m

11. '''Twilight World - F6c **'''

The line of bolts on the wall to the right of french undressing. 18m

12. '''South East Wall - F6a+ **'''

A very good pitch initially following the rightward-slanting ramp/crackline. After a few meters branch off vertically upward following a line of bolts to an interesting lower off. 18m

13. '''Fiesta - F6b *'''

A good pitch. Start 3m right of ''South East Wall'' Follow a line of holds just right of the bolts to a lower off shared with South East Wall

14. '''Bob's Your Uncle - E3, 5c'''

Harder than it looks from the floor. Identify the rightward-slanting jam crack up and before the deep gash in the crag. Climb up to this on pockets and grooves, without much of a line, to hit the jam crack. Follow this and take the vague scoop at its end. Once the groove ends in poor rock, pull back left on good rock via a scallop, to gain the terrace. 18m

15. '''Ten Bears - HVS, 4c'''

Climb the discontinuous crack system in the prow 6m right of ''Bob's Your Uncle''. Finish with care. Rough As. 12m

16. '''Sister Mary's Blessed Finger - Fr.6a'''

This is a two tiered climb. A Tricky start to the bottom of the crag is followed by a pleasant outing up the tooth. 18m

17. '''Enema Affair - Fr.5'''

The shorter bolt line to the right of Sister Mary's blessed finger. You can either share the start of that route or walk in from the right. 10m

=== 3rd Sister RH ===

GR SS 432 863

''Up and right (Facing the land) of the 3rd sister is a small craglet containing much loose rock and very little, if any, worthwhile climbing. However, if you find yourself suffering 'long distance bolt clippers syndrome' on the third sister you could pop across the valley for some proper character building stuff. There is one route to date :''

1. '''Bored of clipping bolts - VS, 4b'''

Find the square cut corner in the middle of the crag. Start at the lower continuation crack leading to its left hand side and climb to the top avoiding pushing too hard on the massive block on the right which does not seem to be attached to anything. 10m

=== Deborah's Zawn ===

[[Image:Deborahs zawn.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Deborah's Zawn]]
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.''

''Deborah's Zawn offers a selection of high quality sport routes. The zawn is situated just below the path running beneath [[Third Sister]]. Easy scrambling down the east side leads to the bottom. The routes are accessible about 4 hours either side of low tide, but be warned, the tide does come in very quickly. The most obvious features are the rightward-rising traverse line of ''Silent Echo'' and the steep leftward-leaning crack of ''Resisting Arrest''.''

#'''Silent Echo - E1, 5a *''' A strenuous pitch, for which a couple of small Friends are handy. From the left-hand end of the higher section of the zawn, climb steeply to the rightwards traverse line. Follow it across the face to a BB. 19m 
#'''Debbie Reynolds - E5, 6a*''' Start below the obvious flake in the leaning brown wall above and right of the start of ''Silent Echo''. Climb straight up the back wall to a bulge. Gain the flake strenuously, PR. Finish up the leaning wall. PB back left. 15m 
#'''Silent Echo Direct Start - E2, 5b *''' Start at a vague weakness, which bounds the left-hand side of the steeper right-hand section of the crag. Climb this awkwardly, to gain the traverse line at the base of the groove. Follow the groove to the BB. 16m 
#'''Can Anybody Hear? - E5, 6b''' A hanging rope is required for the top. As for ''Silent Echo Direct'' to the traverse line, but continue straight up the leaning pink wall to a hanging flake. Move up on a sloper (crucial rock 4), up to hand ledges and finish direct with difficulty, via a left-facing groove. 20m 
#'''Bolder Boulder - Fr. 6c *''' Start at an obvious archway right of the jammed log. From the right side of the arch move left until your under the 2 pegs. A long move leads to the safety of the pegs. Steady climbig leads to good holds and more gear then move left to join the last few feet of Silent Echo Direct and a BB. Warning: The pegs are from 1998 and don't look to be in great shape. 18m 
#'''Under Arrest - Fr. 7c **''' Start right of boulder boulder, tricky moves gain "wide eyed", a hard sequence on pockets and crimps gains jugs, move slightly left and finish directly up the wall before moving left to silent echo belay. 
#'''Wide Eyed And Legless - Fr. 7b+''' Lower diagonal line left of ''Resisting Arrest'', joins ''Bolder Boulder'' to finish. 18m 
#'''Resisting Arrest - Fr.7b+ **''' Soaring diagonal crack right of ''Wide Eyed..'' Follow the sustained diagonal crack to join and finish as for ''Bolder Boulder'' 
#'''Dept. of Correction - Fr. 7b+ ***''' An awesome series of moves lead up and into a prominent groove high up. New bolt belay shared with ''The Salubrious Passage'' Advisable to stick clip first bolt. 
#'''Support Your Local Sheriff - Fr. 7b+ **''' Powerful start and finish. 
#'''Deputy Dawg - Fr. 7b+ **''' Start as for ''Support Your Local Sheriff'', pull up to obvious break, clip 2nd bolt and then head leftwards along a line of undercuts to join with ''Dept. of Correction'' by its fourth bolt, finish up this. 
#'''The Salubrious Passage - E5, 6a **''' Starts at the back of the zawn and follows the obvious overhanging crack heading out towards daylight and finishing at a bolt and peg belay. A head torch may be found useful altough wasn't used on the F.A. Well protected, pumpy climbing. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==

===Third Sister===


#Goi Ashmore 12.09.2009
#M.Crocker 31.05.1998
#M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998
#Goi Ashmore 23.04.2010
#M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
#M.Crocker 21.08.1988
#A.Sharp 00.00.1989
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 06.02.1988
#M.Crocker 21.08.1988
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 10.10.1987
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood, A.Wilson, R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987
#J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1963 FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 10.10.1987
#A.Sharp, R.Powles 06.10.1987
#R.Powles, A.Hughes, A.Wilson 10.10.1987
#R.Thomas 00.00.2009
#R.Thomas 00.00.2009



=== 3rd Sister RH continuation===

#Chris Wyatt. Steve Lucoque 14.12.09


=== Deborah's Zawn===


# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
# M.Crocker 21.08.1988
# R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987
# M.Crocker 31.05.1998
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 11.10.1987
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 01.10.1987
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
# M. Richards 00.00.2010
# M. Richards 00.00.2010
# A.Sharp 00.00.2010
# M.Richards 00.09.2010
# M.Richards, A.Sharp and P.Lewis 00.01.2005

Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn

2011-08-01T12:53:01Z

Dan Carroll: /* Third Sister */

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
The Three Sisters are non-tidal. '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''' 4 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
See individual crags.

== PREAMBLE ==
This is a seldom frequented area of Gower, with some further potential for development - although this will require some dedicated trundling! The main crags of interest are the steep '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' and '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]''', with the best quality rock and some very good E2-E5s. Of the other crags, there are a few easier routes that would be good if a little time was spent removing some (small but numerous) blocks. The crags are described from west to east, as they are approached from '''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
51.557763, -4.264955
~'''[[Rams Grove Area#Saddam's Wall|Saddam's Wall]]'''
~51.557763, -4.264955
~;

51.556171, -4.268079
~'''[[Rams Grove Area#Rams Grove Crag|Rams Grove Crag]]'''
~51.556171, -4.268079
~;

51.553834, -4.263359
~'''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah's Zawn|Deborah's Zawn]]'''
~51.553834, -4.263359
~;

51.554057, -4.263057
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]
~51.554057, -4.263057
~;

51.555300, -4.265838
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#First Sister|First Sister]]
~51.555300, -4.265838
~;

51.555061, -4.265686
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Second Sister|Second Sister]]
~51.555061, -4.265686
~;

51.554436, -4.264437
~[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Sister 2 and Half|Sister 2 and Half]]
~51.554436, -4.264437
~;

51.553830, -4.261632
~'''[[Deborah's Overhang Area]]'''
~51.553830, -4.261632 ''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#The Knave|The Knave]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#The Tooth Fairy Area|The Tooth Fairy Area]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#Deborah's Overhang|Deborah's Overhang]]'' 
''[[Deborah's Overhang Area#Seaspit Small Cove|Seaspit Small Cove]]'' 
~;

51.567203, -4.260779
~'''Pitton Cross - Camping'''
~51.567203, -4.260779 
'''Contact:''' '''Tel :''' 01792 390 593 
'''Fax :''' 01792 391010 
'''email :''' admin@pittoncross.co.uk 
'''For:''' [[Paviland]], 
[[Juniper Wall]], 
Mewslade, Fall Bay, 
[[Deborah's Overhang Area]]
~File:Camp.png;

51.561586, -4.242797
~'''Pilton Green - Parking - Free'''
~51.561586, -4.242797 
Grass strip at the side of a track. Don't get bogged! 
'''For''' [[Paviland]] 
[[Juniper Wall]]
~File:Parking.png;

51.565848, -4.270856
~'''Pitton - Parking'''
~Honesty Box 
For: [[Thurba Head]] 
Mewslade 
[[Jacky's Tor]] 
[[Grey Wall]] 
[[Catacomb Gully]] 
Fall Bay 
[[Deborah's Overhang]] 
[[Three Sisters]]
~File:Parking.png
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing

}}
'''1. Pitton Approach'''

Approach from Pitton as for ''[[Rams Grove Area]]'''. At the seaward end of the valley of Rams Grove, turn left (west) to a good path that runs all the way along the cliff, scrambling up to each sister in turn. The path crosses a very rickety fence above a steep zawn below the [[Third Sister]]. The steep zawn is [[Deborah’s Zawn]], accessed by scrambling down its east (left when facing seaward) side.

'''2. Paviland Approach'''

As for [[Paviland]] to the dry valley where the sea becomes visible. From the stile at the landward end of the valley, cross a stile on the right (west) leading up to a higher level. Pass over two further stiles to reach a dry valley, with a rotten pinnacle visible on the far side (this leads down to the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Deborah’s Overhang Area|Deborah's Overhang Area]]'''). Instead of dropping down the valley with the pinnacle, continue up to the next spur. On the far side of this, a zig zag track leads down a faint gully and towards the sea. This leads to '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Third Sister|Third Sister]]''' in about 60m.

== DESCENTS ==
Scramble down easily and obviously from the '''[[Three Sisters]]'''. For '''[[Deborah’s Zawn]]''', either abseil or lower off. For some routes this requires a hanging rope.

== THE ROUTES ==
=== First Sister ===
GR 430865

'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''The First Sister is a compact cliff just east of the '''[[Rams Grove]]''' valley. It has an overhanging face with a snaking crack
line in the centre (''Sister of Mercy''), whilst to the right is a Y-shaped depression.''

'''1. Mercy, Mercy, Mercy 21m E5,6a *'''

Start 4m left of the snaking crack at a tiny niche at 2m. Move up to place good wires in an incipient crackline, then make fingery moves right to a little black scoop. Swing left to a break, surmount the bulge above, PR and continue to a crack. Take the crack to the top, taking care with the exit move.

''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''

'''2. Sister of Mercy 21m E4,6a *'''

The clean, snaking crackline in the centre of the buttress. Climb steeply to the second of 2PRs. Climb the groove to an easier crack, which leads to the top on dubious rock.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 1pt 21.06.1987''

''FFA A.Price 00.09.1988''

'''3. Paparazzi Blues 21m E6,6b *'''

A pump out taking the bulging rib overhanging the start of Sister Of Mercy. Follow ''Sister Of Mercy'' to a jug 1m above the first PR. Break out right with difficulty to vertical cracks in the rib. Climb the rib on its right side, exiting slightly right over a bulge.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''

'''4. The Angst Of Anti-Fashion 21m E5,6b *'''

Climb the y-shaped depression at the right side of the cliff to reach a bulge forming the inverted crotch of the Y. Traverse left between overhangs to a hanging groove and pull up strenuously right, PR. Escape up a short flake.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.02.1998''

'''5. South East Wall 21m E1,5b'''

As for ''The Angst of Anti-Fashion'', but from the bulge take the right-hand arm.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1966''

''FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1984''

'''6. Solitary Brother 21m E3,6b'''

The rib to the right of ''South East Wall''. Pull straight over the bulge and step immediately left to reach a thin flake crack. Climb the rib to the traverse of ''South East Wall'' and finish with difficulty.

''M.Crocker 17.10.1998''

=== Second Sister ===
[[Image:Second_sister.jpg|600px|thumb|right|'''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#Second Sister|Second Sister]]''']]
GR 430866

'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''This is the buttress immediately east of the '''[[Three Sisters And Deborah's Zawn#First Sister|First Sister]]'''. It has an attractive slabby south wall, but is not quite as good as it appears when viewed from its east side. Some of the routes would be pretty good if anyone were prepared to do a little trundling. The most obvious feature is the prominent fin of ''Finnmark''. The first two routes more or less end at a shoulder at 18m, where it is possible to scramble off left. The rest of the routes go to the top of the cliff.''

1.''' Barney Rubble 18m VD'''

Climb loose rock left of the fin of rock at the left side of the crag.

''C.Allen, solo 00.00.1987''

2. '''Finnmark 18m E2,5b'''

From the ledge at the start of ''Barney Rubble'', swing right round the arete to the obvious groove of ''South Wall''. Move up and stretch left to the fin edge. Climb the right side to the top. An obvious, but disappointing route.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

3. '''South Wall Variation 28m VS,4c *'''

Gain the groove of ''South Wall'' as for ''Finnmark'', but continue as for ''South Wall'' itself.

''A.Richardson, J.Beynon 00.00.1989''

4. '''South Wall 33m VS,4c'''

Might be worth a star if it was trundled at the start. Start at the right edge of the ledge running across the start of the wall proper. Make a leftward-rising traverse to reach the corner crack and follow this to a ledge. Finish through the small overlap above the groove.

''E.Pardoe, J.Talbot 00.00.1969''

5. '''Arrow 33m HVS,5a'''

Supersedes an earlier indirect route, ''Harrow'' (''P.Kokelaar, G.Williams 1969''). Climb the lower slabs just right of the start of ''South Wall'', via a slanting crack line to gain the overhangs. Overcome these to gain the top.

''G.Evans, P.Clay 18.10.1981''

6. '''Topless Admirers 33m HVS,5a'''

This takes a line of slabs and grooves 2m right of ''South Wall''.

''L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.04.1987''

7. '''Sister Sledge 33m E1,5a'''

Start as for Topless Admirers, then finish up the obvious grooves further right.

''G.Lewis, P.Thomas, A.Richardson 00.00.1988''

The crag has an eastern side wall.

8. '''Sister Bliss 13m E5,6b'''

Start at the left end of the broken ledge running beneath the wall. Take the obvious leftward-rising overlap to gain a shallow hanging groove, TR. Finish directly on flakes up the leaning wall.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

9. '''Bloodbond 12m E1,5b'''

Start as for ''Sister Bliss'', then follow an intermittent crack on honeycombed rock right of a grey flake. Proceed directly on flakes up the unlikely wall above to the top, avoiding premature escapes into the groove on the right.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

10. '''Sleuth 12m E3,5c'''

Take the concave slab (sic) above the middle of the ledge beneath the wall. Follow a very slight, overhanging flake a little leftwards onto the slab. Go directly up from an undercut onto the easier angled slab, keeping just left of the groove on the right. Exit with care.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

=== Sister 2 and Half ===
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.''

''To the east (right) of the [[Second Sister]] is a compact wall at a high level. The routes peter out quite quickly and a preplaced belay rope will help mitigate the full horrors of a top out.''

1. '''The Wettest April Since Records Began''' 18m E3,5c

Near the left-hand end of the cliff is a brown coloured crack. A few metres to the right is a slim groove in the grey wall leading up to the left of a jutting overhang. Climb the groove to a short flake crack below a bulge. Move right and through the bulge. Finish up an easier broken groove.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

''The cliff now continues right, looking fairly blank and featureless in its lower half until an orange niche at 6m, some 9m from the right edge of the cliff. The next route takes the leaning wall left of the niche.''

2. '''Sisterly Luv''' 15m E5,6a

Follow the junction of the grey streak and white rock past Bristol PRs to a bulge. Overcome this to a crack leading rightwards to an overhang, a short groove on the right and a wobbly exit to the ledge.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

3. '''The Beverly Sisters''' 15m E3,5c

Start below and slightly to the right of the orange niche. Make committing moves into the niche and continue up the crack and wall to join ''Sisterly Luv'' at the overhang.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998''

4. '''In Between Sisters 15m E4,6a'''

Start 4m left of a rubble zone at the right end of the wall. Move up to a small pocket on the smooth grey wall (crucial Rock 5 placement). Step right and move up on scoops to a bulge (TRs possible). Surmount the bulge direct. Abseil off at the top of the good rock.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.03.1998''

=== Third Sister ===
GR 432863
[[Image:Third sister.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Third Sister]]
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.''

''Situated 5 mins walk east of the [[Second Sister]], this is a series of solid bulging and overhanging walls rising in a leftwards direction above the loose lower section. The starts of the left-hand routes involve exposure out of context with their length. Apart from ''Sexploration'' all the routes start from a grass terrace running up left at two-thirds height from just above a rickety fence. The most obvious feature is the shallow cave 4m up ''French Undressing'', but beware, the nest is thought to belong to a Pterodactyl. The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains ''Sexploration''.''

Many of the routes have been re-geared to a high standard (2009).

The large two tiered crag below the '''[[Third Sister]]''' contains two lines:

1. '''Harriet Harman & the Lehman Sisters - Fr.6c+'''

This is the line left of Sexploration on the lower tier. First bolt is a long way up, and the hanger is missing.

2. '''Sexploration - E4, 5c'''

Start 30m left of the wooden fence below the Sister. Climb the broken wall to intersect an incipient crack in the white wall. Gain a good square-cut hold. Undercut over the bulge above and pull onto the hanging slab. Continue to good cracks and finish easily. Belay on the terrace, and scramble to the top of the cliff via a short chimney. 30m

''The routes on the main crag are described from left to right, starting at the top of the terrace.''

3. '''Do Be Doo - E3, 6a *'''

Take the bulging wall a few metres right of the boulder blocking the top of the terrace, below a vague arete, PR. 10m

4. '''Chilean Flame Thrower - Fr.7b/7b+ *'''

A route for boulderers. The steep wall between Doo Be Doo and Fire In Their Eyes is quite intense to the break. 10m

5. '''Fire In Their Eyes - E6, 6b *'''

Start right of ''Do Be Doo'' and just left of ''Flaming Fingers''. From a ragged pocket swing up the overhanging wall rightwards, PR. Pinch a rib (Friend 2), then move strenuously up to a leftwards pull PR, to the break. Continue to the top past a final PR. 10m

6. '''Flaming Fingers - E5, 6b *'''

Start at a seat-like feature about 9m below the top of the terrace running up the crag, below a low PR. Power up this wall, 3PRs, to hit the chossy break. Step 3m left, and make a tricky move up into a thin flake crack to finish. 18m

7. '''World In Action - Fr.7b+ *'''

About halfway down the ramp follow a series of PRs and tats leading up the wall. Totally desperate. 18m

8. '''Popped In, Souled Out - Fr.7b'''

A bouldery route with a good rest above the first roof. Start just right of ''World In Action''. 21m

9. '''Chilean Flame Flower - E6, 6c'''

A desperate pitch up the leaning and reachy wall just right of ''Popped In, Souled Out'', below a high PR. Climb the wall, with a very bold first clip and nightmare moves, second PR, to eventually gain the break at a worryingly loose block. Step a little right and pull easily up the headwall to finish. 15m

10. '''French Undressing - F6c+ *'''

Start below the right side of the pterodactyl cave at 4m. Climb awkwardly up to this via 2 bolts, and stand up. Make the tricky crux moves upwards and follow a vague groove to the top. Lower off well back on the wall of the 4th tier 18m

11. '''Twilight World - F6c **'''

The line of bolts on the wall to the right of french undressing. 18m

12. '''South East Wall - F6a+ **'''

A very good pitch initially following the rightward-slanting ramp/crackline. After a few meters branch off vertically upward following a line of bolts to an interesting lower off. 18m

13. '''Fiesta - F6b *'''

A good pitch. Start 3m right of ''South East Wall'' Follow a line of holds just right of the bolts to a lower off shared with South East Wall

14. '''Bob's Your Uncle - E3, 5c'''

Harder than it looks from the floor. Identify the rightward-slanting jam crack up and before the deep gash in the crag. Climb up to this on pockets and grooves, without much of a line, to hit the jam crack. Follow this and take the vague scoop at its end. Once the groove ends in poor rock, pull back left on good rock via a scallop, to gain the terrace. 18m

[[File:Mateusz web.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Mateusz Andrzejewski on The Enema Affair]]

15. '''Ten Bears - HVS, 4c'''

Climb the discontinuous crack system in the prow 6m right of ''Bob's Your Uncle''. Finish with care. Rough As. 12m

16. '''Sister Mary's Blessed Finger - Fr.6a'''

This is a two tiered climb. A Tricky start to the bottom of the crag is followed by a pleasant outing up the tooth. 18m

17. '''Enema Affair - Fr.5'''

The shorter bolt line to the right of Sister Mary's blessed finger. You can either share the start of that route or walk in from the right. 10m

=== 3rd Sister RH ===

GR SS 432 863

''Up and right (Facing the land) of the 3rd sister is a small craglet containing much loose rock and very little, if any, worthwhile climbing. However, if you find yourself suffering 'long distance bolt clippers syndrome' on the third sister you could pop across the valley for some proper character building stuff. There is one route to date :''

1. '''Bored of clipping bolts - VS, 4b'''

Find the square cut corner in the middle of the crag. Start at the lower continuation crack leading to its left hand side and climb to the top avoiding pushing too hard on the massive block on the right which does not seem to be attached to anything. 10m

=== Deborah's Zawn ===

[[Image:Deborahs zawn.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Deborah's Zawn]]
'''''Bolting Policy.''' Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.''

''Deborah's Zawn offers a selection of high quality sport routes. The zawn is situated just below the path running beneath [[Third Sister]]. Easy scrambling down the east side leads to the bottom. The routes are accessible about 4 hours either side of low tide, but be warned, the tide does come in very quickly. The most obvious features are the rightward-rising traverse line of ''Silent Echo'' and the steep leftward-leaning crack of ''Resisting Arrest''.''

#'''Silent Echo - E1, 5a *''' A strenuous pitch, for which a couple of small Friends are handy. From the left-hand end of the higher section of the zawn, climb steeply to the rightwards traverse line. Follow it across the face to a BB. 19m 
#'''Debbie Reynolds - E5, 6a*''' Start below the obvious flake in the leaning brown wall above and right of the start of ''Silent Echo''. Climb straight up the back wall to a bulge. Gain the flake strenuously, PR. Finish up the leaning wall. PB back left. 15m 
#'''Silent Echo Direct Start - E2, 5b *''' Start at a vague weakness, which bounds the left-hand side of the steeper right-hand section of the crag. Climb this awkwardly, to gain the traverse line at the base of the groove. Follow the groove to the BB. 16m 
#'''Can Anybody Hear? - E5, 6b''' A hanging rope is required for the top. As for ''Silent Echo Direct'' to the traverse line, but continue straight up the leaning pink wall to a hanging flake. Move up on a sloper (crucial rock 4), up to hand ledges and finish direct with difficulty, via a left-facing groove. 20m 
#'''Bolder Boulder - Fr. 6c *''' Start at an obvious archway right of the jammed log. From the right side of the arch move left until your under the 2 pegs. A long move leads to the safety of the pegs. Steady climbig leads to good holds and more gear then move left to join the last few feet of Silent Echo Direct and a BB. Warning: The pegs are from 1998 and don't look to be in great shape. 18m 
#'''Under Arrest - Fr. 7c **''' Start right of boulder boulder, tricky moves gain "wide eyed", a hard sequence on pockets and crimps gains jugs, move slightly left and finish directly up the wall before moving left to silent echo belay. 
#'''Wide Eyed And Legless - Fr. 7b+''' Lower diagonal line left of ''Resisting Arrest'', joins ''Bolder Boulder'' to finish. 18m 
#'''Resisting Arrest - Fr.7b+ **''' Soaring diagonal crack right of ''Wide Eyed..'' Follow the sustained diagonal crack to join and finish as for ''Bolder Boulder'' 
#'''Dept. of Correction - Fr. 7b+ ***''' An awesome series of moves lead up and into a prominent groove high up. New bolt belay shared with ''The Salubrious Passage'' Advisable to stick clip first bolt. 
#'''Support Your Local Sheriff - Fr. 7b+ **''' Powerful start and finish. 
#'''Deputy Dawg - Fr. 7b+ **''' Start as for ''Support Your Local Sheriff'', pull up to obvious break, clip 2nd bolt and then head leftwards along a line of undercuts to join with ''Dept. of Correction'' by its fourth bolt, finish up this. 
#'''The Salubrious Passage - E5, 6a **''' Starts at the back of the zawn and follows the obvious overhanging crack heading out towards daylight and finishing at a bolt and peg belay. A head torch may be found useful altough wasn't used on the F.A. Well protected, pumpy climbing. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==

===Third Sister===


#Goi Ashmore 12.09.2009
#M.Crocker 31.05.1998
#M.Crocker, J.Harwood 26.04.1998
#Goi Ashmore 23.04.2010
#M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998
#M.Crocker 21.08.1988
#A.Sharp 00.00.1989
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 06.02.1988
#M.Crocker 21.08.1988
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 10.10.1987
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood, A.Wilson, R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987
#J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1963 FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1986
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 10.10.1987
#A.Sharp, R.Powles 06.10.1987
#R.Powles, A.Hughes, A.Wilson 10.10.1987
#R.Thomas 00.00.2009
#R.Thomas 00.00.2009



=== 3rd Sister RH continuation===

#Chris Wyatt. Steve Lucoque 14.12.09


=== Deborah's Zawn===


# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
# M.Crocker 21.08.1988
# R.Powles, A.Hughes 10.10.1987
# M.Crocker 31.05.1998
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 11.10.1987
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 01.10.1987
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
# M. Richards 00.00.2010
# M. Richards 00.00.2010
# A.Sharp 00.00.2010
# M.Richards 00.09.2010
# M.Richards, A.Sharp and P.Lewis 00.01.2005

File:Mateusz web.jpg

2011-08-01T12:46:13Z

Dan Carroll: Mateusz Andrzejewski on The Enema Affair 5+, at Third Sister

Mateusz Andrzejewski on The Enema Affair 5+, at Third Sister

Development

2010-09-28T00:20:37Z

Dan Carroll: Reverted edits by Dan Carroll (talk) to last revision by Tim Hoddy

==Becoming an Editor==

Why edit the SWMC Wiki? Maybe you have something important to say or discuss? Perhaps you have photography skills. Maybe you have some spare time and wish put something back into the rock-climbing community of South Wales. You don't need to be skillful at computers, you merely need a willingness to work with others to produce a useful resource for rock-climbers in South Wales.

If you wish to become a registered user then you will need to send an email to [mailto:craginfo@swmc.ath.cx craginfo@swmc.ath.cx]

In your email you should:

# Explain any skills/knowledge that you have and that would be of use. (e.g. Local knowledge, graphics design, writing, photography etc.)
# State if you are a SWMC member. (N.B. non-SWMC are welcome to join the wiki too).

Using the username and password that you will receive via email, log on and start editing.
Use your user:talkpage to give a brief account of your knowledge and skills. This is so that other users can contact you for info/help, etc.

==User Privileges==

Curently there are two levels of privilege:

*'''unregistered-user''':
**You can view all article pages but you cannot edit them.
**You can add text to discussion pages but cannot create them.
**You cannot upload images.

*'''registered-user''':
**You can create articles.
**You can view and edit all articles.
**You can delete articles.
**You can move articles.
**You can create ''Discussion Pages''
**You can upload images
**You can protect articles, discussion pages and images from editing by un-registered users.

==Submitting Information==

We welcome information on the local crags which can utilised on these pages for everyone to see, please follow the guidelines in the link below for formatting:

'''[[Submitting Information]]'''

Help with Wiki Markup [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting Help]

Downloadable reference card. Suitable for printing. [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/meta/e/e7/MediaWikiRefCard.png Reference Card]

== Standards ==

===Pages ===

See [[Template Page]]

=== Topo Editing ===
See [[Talk:Development]]

==Photographs==

'''N.B.''' Space on our server is at a premium. It's expensive and you should avoid uploading images with dimensions greater that 1280x1024.

It also slows down the loading of pages for our users.

You should use wiki markup to resize how the picture/photo appears onscreen.

'''[[Photographs|list]]''' of crag photographs that need to be taken.

'''[[Topo Photos]]''' Page of cragshots awaiting editing.

==Software==
A list of downloadable software that may help you.

===Photo Editing===

*'''[http://www.gimp.org/ The Gimp]'''. Powerful photo editing capabilities on a par with the (expensive) '''Photoshop'''.

*'''[http://www.getpaint.net/ Paint.net]'''. Free and, at a pinch, can be used to create topos.

*'''[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape]'''. Free and powerful vector graphics editing. Lots of features useful for creating topos. Similar to '''CorelDraw'''

===Text Editing / Publishing===

*'''[http://www.openoffice.org/ OpenOffice]'''. Powerful office suite. Can do export to PDF, export MS Word --> wiki markup. Image editing with its '''Draw''' package.

*'''[http://notepad-plus-plus.org/ Notepad++].''' Very powerful text-editing. Does syntax highlighting, tho' not (yet) of wiki markup.

*'''[http://www.scribus.net/ Scribus] ''' A Desktop Publishing program which can be used for combining topos with route descriptions in various formats.

===GPS and GeoTagging===

For those who have never Geotagged photos, here is an ultra-short '''[[Geotagging Tutorial|tutorial]]'''

*'''[http://geotag.sourceforge.net/?q=node/2 Geotag]'''. Tt geotags photos using a GPS's track log. It will download directly from your GPS if it has a USB interface. This will mean that you don't have to use [http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel].

*'''[http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel]'''. Very powerful. Acquires tracklogs from a wide variety of GPSs and optionally converts the tracklogs/waypoints to KML, KMZ, GPX, etc. etc. for viewing in GoogleEarth/Maps, GeoTagging, etc.

==Creating Maps==

We can use maps in this wiki. We have installed two extensions to allow us to do this.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Google_Maps Google Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (incl. Satellite View) and allows us to place markers.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Maps Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (not Satellite) and also [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] maps and Yahoo Maps. It is being actively developed. The possibility of using [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] allows us to have some control of the map that is offered to the user. For instance, we could map footpaths which lead to crags. I suspect, in the long run, this extension will me of more use to us.

===Mapping Software===

If you wish to get into [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] check their wiki. [http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/ OpenStreetMap Wiki] and the [[wikipedia:OpenStreetMap|OpenStreetMap Wikipedia Article]]

Development

2010-09-27T22:32:35Z

Dan Carroll: Reverted edits by Tim Hoddy (talk) to last revision by Tom Dudley

==Becoming an Editor==

Why edit the SWMC Wiki? Maybe you have something important to say or discuss? Perhaps you have photography skills. Maybe you have some spare time and wish put something back into the rock-climbing community of South Wales. You don't need to be skillful at computers, you merely need a willingness to work with others to produce a useful resource for rock-climbers in South Wales.

If you wish to become a registered user then you will need to send an email to [mailto:craginfo@swmc.ath.cx craginfo@swmc.ath.cx]

In your email you should:

# Explain any skills/knowledge that you have and that would be of use. (e.g. Local knowledge, graphics design, writing, photography etc.)
# State if you are a SWMC member. (N.B. non-SWMC are welcome to join the wiki too).

Using the username and password that you will receive via email, log on and start editing.
Use your user:talkpage to give a brief account of your knowledge and skills. This is so that other users can contact you for info/help, etc.

==User Privileges==

Curently there are two levels of privilege:

*'''unregistered-user''':
**You can view all article pages but you cannot edit them.
**You can add text to discussion pages but cannot create them.
**You cannot upload images.

*'''registered-user''':
**You can view and edit all articles.
**You can delete articles.
**You can move articles.
**You can create ''Discussion Pages''
**You can upload images
**You can protect articles, discussion pages and images from editing by un-registered users.

==Submitting Information==

We welcome information on the local crags which can utilised on these pages for everyone to see, please follow the guidelines in the link below for formatting:

'''[[Submitting Information]]'''

Help with Wiki Markup [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Formatting Help]

Downloadable reference card. Suitable for printing. [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/meta/e/e7/MediaWikiRefCard.png Reference Card]

== Standards ==

===Pages ===

See [[Template Page]]

=== Topo Editing ===
See [[Talk:Development]]

==Photographs==

'''[[Photographs|list]]''' of crag photographs that need to be taken.

'''[[Topo Photos]]''' Page of cragshots awaiting editing.

==Software==
A list of downloadable software that may help you.

===Photo Editing===

*'''[http://www.gimp.org/ The Gimp]'''. Powerful photo editing capabilities on a par with the (expensive) '''Photoshop'''.

*'''[http://www.getpaint.net/ Paint.net]'''. Free and, at a pinch, can be used to create topos.

*'''[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape]'''. Free and powerful vector graphics editing. Lots of features useful for creating topos. Similar to '''CorelDraw'''

===Text Editing / Publishing===

*'''[http://www.openoffice.org/ OpenOffice]'''. Powerful office suite. Can do export to PDF, export MS Word --> wiki markup. Image editing with its '''Draw''' package.

*'''[http://notepad-plus-plus.org/ Notepad++].''' Very powerful text-editing. Does syntax highlighting, tho' not (yet) of wiki markup.

*'''[http://www.scribus.net/ Scribus] ''' A Desktop Publishing program which can be used for combining topos with route descriptions in various formats.

===GPS and GeoTagging===

For those who have never Geotagged photos, here is an ultra-short '''[[Geotagging Tutorial|tutorial]]'''

*'''[http://geotag.sourceforge.net/?q=node/2 Geotag]'''. Tt geotags photos using a GPS's track log. It will download directly from your GPS if it has a USB interface. This will mean that you don't have to use [http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel].

*'''[http://www.gpsbabel.org/ GPSBabel]'''. Very powerful. Acquires tracklogs from a wide variety of GPSs and optionally converts the tracklogs/waypoints to KML, KMZ, GPX, etc. etc. for viewing in GoogleEarth/Maps, GeoTagging, etc.

==Creating Maps==

We can use maps in this wiki. We have installed two extensions to allow us to do this.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Google_Maps Google Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (incl. Satellite View) and allows us to place markers.
# [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Maps Maps Extension]. Does Google Maps (not Satellite) and also [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] maps and Yahoo Maps. It is being actively developed. The possibility of using [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] allows us to have some control of the map that is offered to the user. For instance, we could map footpaths which lead to crags. I suspect, in the long run, this extension will me of more use to us.

===Mapping Software===

If you wish to get into [http://www.openstreetmap.org OpenStreetMap] check their wiki. [http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/ OpenStreetMap Wiki] and the [[wikipedia:OpenStreetMap|OpenStreetMap Wikipedia Article]]

LLANBRADACH UPPER TIER

2010-09-27T10:20:25Z

Dan Carroll: /* THE UPPER QUARRY */

[[Llanbradach]]

==THE UPPER QUARRY==

Described as approached from the left-hand banking of the quarry entrance. About 100m into the tier is an awesome
tower (resisting the obvious Frank Zappaism, we continue), which contains Desert Storm. There are some shorter
buttresses leading up to this tower and a large slabby wall. The first routes, however, start in the small bay right at
the start of the tier.

'''56. Hedge Of Time 8m S'''

The short arete at the start of the upper tier, PR. BB.

''R.Thomas 07.05.1997''

'''57. Conan’s Boil 8m Fr4+'''

The short wall immediately upon entering the tier, PR, to the visually stunning lower off.

''R.Thomas 07.05.1997''

'''58. The Lapse 8m E1,5c Fr6a+'''

The wall and flake right of the corner.

''R.Thomas 07.05.1997''

'''59. Roraima 9m Fr6b+ *'''

A good, short route up the centre of the little tower up and right of The Lapse.

''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 23.03.1997''

Futher right is a clean wall above a terrace.

'''60. Three Men In A Goat 12m Fr6c *'''

The left-hand route on the terrace, keeping out of the crack to the left.

''R.Thomas 02.04.1997''

'''61. Once Bitten 12m Fr6a'''

The centre of the wall to a tree.

''R.Thomas, M.Crocker 00.00.1991''

'''62. Twice Shy 12m Fr5+'''

The right-hand line on the terrace wall.

''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 23.03.1997''

Up in the trees, 6m to the right is a short arete.

'''63. Hollow Feeling 12m Fr6a+'''

The arete proves quite exciting at the moment! 3BRs, PR, BB.

''M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1991''

'''64. Practice What You Preach 12m E3,5b'''

Climb the centre of this wall to the same BB. Why do the anti-bolters not do this route?

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1991''

Just to the right is a large slabby wall, forming the first area of rock to run the full height of the tier.

'''65. Pampered 20m Fr6a+ *'''

The left-hand arete of the slabby wall

''R.Thomas 14.04.1997''

'''66. You Change Me 27m Fr6c *'''

The centre of the slabby wall. No longer bold, but a little harder than the original version, having shed holds and
gained an optional problem start by avoiding use of the banking on the left. At the top of the arete swing right to
the belay out on the slab.

''M.Crocker 00.00.1991''

'''67. Nappy Rush 27m Fr6b ***'''

The line to the right of You Change Me is absolutely brilliant with good holds all the way up.

''R.Thomas 00.00.1997''

There is a never-dry project up the corner right of Nappy Rush. A large sandstone tower now rears up from the quarry
floor.

'''68. Torch The Earth 24m Fr7b+ *'''

A route with a real stopper move. The tall can dyno, the short have to make a horrendous static move Sounds
unusual, but you will soon see why. Start at the left arete of the tower and climb to a borehole and TR. Climb the
slab to a couple of tricky moves up a crack and a good rest. Rock up the wall to the undercuts. Fall off repeatedly,
go away and grow 6” then come back to complete the monster stretch to the easier upper wall. There is no lower
off at present so abseil off the tree or top out - both are exciting! TR, PR, BRs.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.01.1991''

[[Image:Llanbradach upper R.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Llanbradach Quarry. Upper Tier right hand area. Photo, Dan Carroll]]

'''69. Dirty As A Dog 24m Fr6a+ **'''

Start below the left arete of the tower and follow it with interest to brilliant moves left of the capped niche to a BB,
in a splendid position. It is possible to start up the slab to the left of the starting groove at 6a.

''R.Thomas, G.Royle, M.Learoyd 00.00.1991''

'''70. Desert Storm 24m Fr7a+ ***'''

A stunning route, sustained though never too hard, but the crux is at the top. The leaning, orange, right-hand wall
of the tower. Start at a vague triangular niche and follow the wall directly to a good shakeout just before the
crackline. Make hard moves up the slanting crack and swing right to a good shakeout jug. From here, step left
and make a massive rock up back left to the BB.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.01.1991''

To the right of the tower containing Desert Storm is a more moderately angled wall:

'''71. Twenty Second Chance 18m Fr7a+'''

To the right of a loose corner is a steep face. Climb the blunt arete directly, with a VERY tricky move at 5m, then
finish easily up the arete to a sapling and a BB out on the right.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 26.01.1991''

'''72. Sixty Second Go See 21m Fr7a *'''

The wall to the right of the arete offers short but brilliant tips pulling. Finish up Roaring Forties.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 26.01.1991''

'''73. Roaring Forties 21m Fr6a+ *'''

Start up the shattered flaky groove to the right and follow a curving flake onto the easy upper slab and the
common BB.

''R.Thomas, J.Bullock 00.00.1989''

'''74. Between The Lines 21m Fr6b'''

Climb directly up the wall right of Roaring Forties to an undercut and straight up the wall above, making a slight
detour onto a flake out left at 14m. At the last BR, move left to the BB.

''R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1991''

'''75. Dirty Day Out 21m E3,5c'''

The groove on the right. The situ gear is currently missing so needs a rebolt.

''J.Bullock, R.Thomas 00.00.1989''

The rock now becomes more complex. To aid location, the next slightly slabby arete is Harrowed Harrovians, the
obvious tall blunt arete to the right is Blinded By Love and much further on, the last big slab contains You Are What
You Is.

'''76. Harrowed Harrovians 27m Fr6b+ *'''

The big, slabby arete.

''R.Thomas, Old Harrovians 00.00.1998''

'''77. Saboo 27m Fr6c'''

The big slab to the right has an obvious capped groove at 18m. Climb boldly up the slab to gain the niche, then
either move left (the original finish), or right (harder), round the roof to the ledge. Make a hard move up off the ledge
to gain the BB.

''M.Learoyd 00.00.1989''

''G.Ashmore, J.Tracey - Direct 17.06.1997''

'''78. Dandelion 27m Fr6a+'''

To the right is a slim corner groove before the corner proper. Climb this to a BB below the roof.

''M.Hirst 08.04.1997''

'''79. Burdoch 25m Fr6a+'''

The wall to the right of Dandelion.

''M.Hirst 06.06.1997''

'''80. Blinded By Love 21m Fr6b+ **'''

To the right is a damp corner followed by an arete. Climb the arete from its bottom left-hand side to an awkward
top out to the tree belay. Sustained and well worthwhile.

''R.Thomas, G.Royle, M.Learoyd 00.00.1991''

'''81. The Laughing Policeman 27m Fr6b'''

The square-cut groove immediately right of Blinded By Love only dries out to an acceptable state in midsummer,
which is a shame, as the upper groove is good. Take care with the monster loose block.

''R.Thomas 13.07.1997''

'''82. Fair Cop 25m Fr6a+ *'''

The next groove to the right. Take care with the flake at 18m and take a lot of quickdraws.

''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 24.05.1997''

'''83. Aptitude Test 12m Fr7a *'''

The blunt arete 3m to the right.

''M.Crocker 00.00.1991''

'''84. The Merthyr Infill 12m Fr6c'''

The wall right of Aptitude Test.

''G.Gibson 23.03.1997''

'''85. My Blue Bell 12m Fr5+'''

The groove to the right of Aptitude Test.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 18.05.1997''

'''86. All Sand Together 18m Fr6c+'''

The blunt arete to the right of My Blue Bell, stepping right at the third bolt to finish up Red ‘Erring.

''G.Gibson 18.05.1997''

'''87. Red ‘Erring 18m Fr6b+'''

Straight up the wall right of We All Sand Together, with a bold finish.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 18.05.1997''

'''88. Plaque Attack 12m Fr6b+'''

To the right is a corner, followed by a slab leading up to a roof. Follow the left-hand bolt line on the slab to the BB
below the roof.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 00.00.1997''

'''89. Incidentally 12m Fr6b+'''

The slab and arete just right to the BB of Plaque Attack.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 23.03.1997''

The next feature is an impressive slab, containing the best of the routes at this end of the tier, including an original
sandstone classic.

'''90. Cop The Lot 11m Fr7a'''

The blunt rib on the far side of the dirty groove right of Incidentally.

''G.Gibson 24.07.1997''

'''91. The Caerphilly Cop Out 11m Fr6c+'''

The blunt rib and short wall just right of Cop The Lot.

''G.Gibson 24.05.1997''

'''92. I Am What I Am 18m Fr6b **'''

The longer line to the right of The Caerphilly Cop Out, starting up the flaky groove.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 24.05.1997''

'''93. You Are What You Is 21m Fr6b+ ***'''

The line right the way up the slab, just right of centre. Superb. A maturing sandstone classic from the late Giles
Barker.

''G.Barker, R.Trevitt 00.00.1989''

'''94. Is It What You Are That Is 21m Fr6c+ **'''

The impressive arete bounding the right-hand side of the slab, on its overhanging side to half-height, then the left
hand side thereafter. Sustained and pleasantly exposed.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 18.05.1997''

Two long Fr 7a's - to the right of the sharks fin arête of ‘Is It What You Are That Is’ - 60m rope needed.

'''Brush Up Fr7a'''

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas - 10 Oct 2008''

'''Brush Down Fr7a'''

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas - 10 Oct 2008''

100m further right in the last bay

'''My Little Routey Wooty Fr 6b'''

Slabby wall on right of crack steepening towards the LO.

''R.Thomas. G..Gibson - 10 Oct 2008''