LLANBRADACH LOWER TIER

2009-04-23T22:00:54Z

Dafydd Jones: spelling

[[Llanbradach]]

==THE LOWER TIER==

Routes are described from right to left (anti-clockwise) as approached as far as Loss Leader Wall. The routes on the
left (south) side of the quarry (from Bas Chevaliers Area onwards) are described from left to right as approached. If
this upsets anybody’s sense of order, then they want to try and walk right the way round the quarry floor to regain
their sense of proportion.

===Pool Wall===
[[Image:Llanbradach4.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Deadly Des on the tough and overhanging 'Slip into Something Sexy' Fr.7a+ *** Most peoples candidate for the best route of its grade on sandstone]]

From the quarry entrance, follow the track leading rightwards round the edge of the pool to a recess bounded by a
prominent arete on its right. The first route is 20m before this area.

1.''' Sadness - Fr.4+'''

The left facing groove 10m right of the prominent blunt arete of Slipping Into Luxury. 11m

A partially cleaned crack separates Sadness from the following route.

2. ''' Internal Reflection - Fr6a'''

This route takes the right-hand side of this wall. 11m

3. ''' Luxury Gap - Fr6c+'''

A route up the wall to the left, with hard moves up from the block to the BB. 12m

4. ''' Slap Of Luxury - Fr7a *'''

Start down and left under the blunt arete and make a difficult couple of moves up to gain the slab right of the arete. Follow the slab and tricky wall above to a BB. 15m

5.''' Slipping Into Luxury - Fr6b **'''

Good and very well protected. Start below and left of the prominent blunt arete and climb the wall to a ledge. Climb the upper wall and arete to a BB. 15m

There is a bolted project to the right of the corner, sharing the lower off with Slipping into Luxury, it still needs some cleaning. Left of the corner is a partially bolted project that needs a lot of cleaning.!

6.''' Slip Into Something Sexy - Fr7a+ ***'''

The leaning wall left of the corner is very impressive. 17m

There is an open project up the steeper wall to the left, left of a pair of incipient cracks. The wall often seeps and the first bolt is missing however, the second can be clipped with a stick. It is still dirty but some serious cleaning may reveal a decent climb, anticipated to be around Fr7b+ to Fr7c in difficulty.

7.''' Shadow Of The Sun - Fr7a **'''

The steep little wall up the banking futher left. 10m

===The Sinister Walls===

Further round to the left, before the start of the Expansionist buttress are a series of short, leaning walls at the top of
a banking. These are currently home to a number of routes. The routes which continue onto the higher tier are
described first. These are normally accessed by either Dreaming In Colour or The Evil Eye. There is a project up the
wall above The Evil Eye.

8.''' Snapper - Fr6c **'''

The crack above The Evil Eye belay. 15m

9.''' Overleaf - Fr6a+ *'''

The wall above Dreaming In Colour. Watch out for the very wobbly flake! 12m

Returning to the ground and just left of a prominent corner is:

10. ''' Sinister Fr7b **'''

Start below an obvious flake at 3m. Gain this with difficulty (crux) and leave it with a monster stretch. Climb up
with less interest, but with a gathering pump on brittle flakes, to a final couple of good moves up the flake crack. 15m

[[Image:FFP.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Dafydd Jones working (and cleaning) Food For Parasites]]
11. '''Abbatoir And Costello - Fr7b+ **'''

The wall to the left of Sinister has lost a big hold low down and may now be harder. 15m

12. '''In Blood, Of Life, Of Sin - Fr7a+'''

The wall to the left is climbed on good holds to a pocket. Reach blindly up and pull round the lip, sauntering up
the slab to finish. Often wet, blind and hard to on-sight. 15m

13. '''The Evil Eye - Fr7a'''

The broken groove on the left, to a step out right onto the wall at a pocket. Pull over the overlap (crux) and saunter
up the slab to a BB. 12m

Further right, the wall loses height.

14. ''' Dreaming In Colour - Fr6c *'''

The right arete of the wall. 11m

15. ''' Letters Of Life - Fr7a **'''

Left of the arete is another bolt line. Climb it by a superb series of rockups and snatches. 11m

16. ''' Giving It All Up - Fr7a+ *'''

The next bolt line right. Some very tricky moves. 11m

17. ''' Host - Fr6c'''

The wall just left of the central drainage streak/cheesy section. 11m

18. ''' Food For Parasites - Fr7a+ **'''

The left-hand line on the wall is thin, with a hard crux and pumpy climbing thereafter. 11m

===Expansionist and Cascade Walls===

Further round to the left is the very obvious Expansionist crack, splitting the buttress high up. The Expansionist Wall
is bounded on the left by the prominent arete of The Caerphilly Contract. A vague corner runs down from the foot of
the Expansionist crack and there is a large slabby ledge splitting the Expansionist area at 15m. The area right of the
corner and under the ledge is known as The Cascade Wall. The area above the half-height ledge is known as the
Expansionist Wall. The short clean wall left of the corner and directly below the upper arete of The Caerphilly Contract
is The Sub-Contractor’s Wall.

=====Cascade Walls=====

The Cascade Walls are split by a prominent stream emerging from a hole at 3m above which is a left-facing corner
(Sphagnum 45). The first route starts from the lowest slab right of the stream.
[[Image:LLanbradach2.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on the amenable 'Too Keynes By Half' Fr6c]]

19. ''' Bathtime - Fr6a+'''

The centre of the lowest slab. 15m

20. ''' Splash It On All Over - Fr6c'''

The slab and wall to the left is thin above the ledge. 15m

21. ''' Right Of Spring - Fr6b'''

The slab immediately right of the stream, starting up a blunt nose. 15m

Left of the hole from which the stream emerges:

22. '''Sphagnum 45 - Fr6a'''

The groove and faint flake above the stream. 14m

23. '''Cascade - Fr7a'''

A worthwhile route up the wall left of Spaghnum 45, passing a prominent overlap. 12m

24. '''Total Recoil - Fr6c *'''

Starting from a slight platform, climb the broken groove to a good jug at 6m, then step airily out right to the slab.
Saunter up to the base of a square cut arete. Swing round this into the groove, then pull back left at the top of the
arete and move left to the BB. 15m

25. '''Splashdown - Fr6c'''

As for Total Recoil, but continue up the groove and its left arete to a hard swing back right to a ledge. Step right
to the same BB as Total Recoil. 14m

26. '''Falling Freely - Fr7a+'''

A sustained route up the wall to the left of Splashdown. 14m

====Sub-Contractor’s Wall====

The rather obvious clean orange wall to the left overhangs very slightly, staying quite dry in light drizzle.

27. '''Too Keynes By Half - Fr6c *'''

The right-hand arete. 12m

28. '''Post Expressionist - Fr6b *'''

The superb flake line splitting the centre of the wall, stepping right at the top to the same BB. 12m

29. '''Simple Addition - Fr6c+ *'''

The pocketed wall to the right is hard for the grade. 10m

30. '''Sub Contraction - Fr7a'''

An unusual route up the right-hand side of the left arete of the wall to the BB of Simple Addition. 10m

====Expansionist Wall====

This is effectively a ‘middle-tier’ of the quarry, lying above Cascade and Sub-Contractors Wall. The normal approach
(apart from The Caerphilly Contract and Little White Lies) is from Total Recoil/Splashdown and up The Link Pitch. The
Caerphilly Contract and Little White Lies are normally started via Too Keynes By Half.
[[Image:LLanbradach1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Dafydd Jones on a recent ascent of The Expansionist E3 5c]]

'''31. The Link Pitch 8m Fr4'''

From the BB of Total Recoil/Splash down, mantle onto the ledge and climb the fin, BR to a BB.

''G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

'''32. Giant Sand 25m Fr6c+ **'''

An excellent trip up the rightmost line on the wall right of the obvious crack of The Expansionist.

''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 31.03.1996''

'''33. Grit Box 25m E5,6b Fr7a+ ***'''

An awesome route up the steep wall just right of the Expansionist crack. Climb direct, with a hard start to
sustained pulling between spaced jugs. Eventually gain the base of a shallow right-angled corner, from the top of this
make a superbly exposed swing out onto the right arete to gain the belay.

''G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

'''34. The Expansionist 60m E3,5c *'''

The very striking crack splitting the centre of the face above the Cascade walls. Access the crack from the Link Pitch stance. A number of medium/large cams are required (2 to 3.5). A house brick chock is in place below the first roof and past this is a jammed No.3 cam (please return if you are able to dislodge it). Bolted Lower off at the top of the cliff.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 25.05.1978''

To the left of the Expansionist Crack are:

'''35. Little White Lies 24m Fr6c **'''

The wall left of the upper crack of Expansionist gained from the former route, or by abseil. Superbly positioned
climbing, with one tricky move.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.11.1988''

'''36. The Caerphilly Contract 55m Fr7b+ **'''

Regeared and now totally direct. Start up Too Keynes By Half and from the belay, climb the nose to the base of
a wall (The original route wandered up the grooves round to the right of Subcontractors Wall to gain this point).
Clip the BR, pull up the crack out right for one move, then step boldly back left to climb the centre of the wall,
2BRs, to end up on a slabby section below the arete. Move up the arete and stretch right for good holds leading
up to an obvious undercut and shakeout right on the arete. Now the fun begins. If over 6ft. make one hard move
up the flake to a jug. If normal, make a surprisingly contrived and difficult sequence to leave the top of the flake.
If successful, romp up the easy upper section to a BB at the top. Double abseil descent.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 06.11.1988''

===Loss Leader Area===
[[Image:LLanbradach3.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Ralph Giles leading the 'Post Expressionist' a good Fr 6b]]

This area is back on ground level, situated above the banking left of Sub-Contractors Wall.

There is a project up the wall above the sycamore in a crack halfway up the banking.

'''37. Acatalepsia 17m Fr6a+ *'''

The wall left of the obvious crack on the long wall at the top of the banking.

''R.Thomas 03.06.1996''

'''38. Insomnia 17m Fr6c *'''

The wall to the left with a very hard move to gain the ledge and some good rockovers on scabs thereafter. Take
care with the final flake.

''G.Gibson 05.05.1996''

'''39. Amnesia 17m Fr7a'''

The wall left again to the same BB.

''G.Gibson 05.05.1996''

===Bas Chevaliers Area and Contraband Wall===

The routes are described from left to right, i.e. as encountered walking round the quarry clockwise. Bas Chevaliers
Area is the first area of rock encountered on the left-hand side of the quarry, when following the path in from the lefthand
banking.

'''40. Horns A Plenty 18m Fr6a+'''

The left-hand line on the buttress, taking the sharp groove and crack.

''R.Thomas 03.05.1998''

'''41. Magellan’s Straight 21m Fr6c'''

To the right of Horns A Plenty, is a cave at ground level. Pull out of the left hand side of the cave past some
interesting structural engineering and climb the overlapping wall above.

''R.Thomas 07.05.1998''

'''42. Maurice Chevaliers 21m Fr7a'''

Start in the centre of the roof right of Magellan’s Straight. Climb this awkwardly to a semi-rest on the arete, then
swing out under the overlap. A powerful move from the jug on the lip leads to a ledge. Wander up the groove in
the front face of the buttress, then swing left to gain the BB of Magellan’s Straight.

''G.Ashmore 05.04.1999''

'''43. Bas Chevaliers 21m E3,5c'''

A good pitch loosely based around the right arete of the buttress. Climb the slabby right wall, until it is possible
to swing out onto the groove of Maurice Chevaliers. Move up to just below the ‘fang’ roof, swing right and climb
the right wall, PR, making a long stretch left for a jug on the arete. Move back right, and up to a good nut slot, then
back left to the BB.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 26.11.1988''

'''44. Moutton Dagger 18m Fr6c *'''

The best route up the buttress, taking the wall to the right of Bas Chevaliers.

''R.Thomas 01.05.1999''

'''45. Peel Back The Flaps 18m Fr6b'''

The ledgy, dirty, cheesey chimney and tower.

''R.Thomas, Old Harrovians 01.11.1999''

'''46. Jam One In 18m E1,5b'''

The jam crack to the right and just left of Hush Money.

''R.Thomas, Old Harrovians 01.11.1999''

The next routes are on the striking vertical wall to the right (Contraband Wall). There is a bolt belay on the terrace.

'''47. Hush Money 12m Fr7a+'''

To the right is an impressively steep ‘sheet wall’. Climb the left arete of the wall with some very hard moves past
the overlap. Do not wander off right at the crux. Originally given E3!

''M.Crocker 11.12.1988''

'''48. Contraband 18m Fr7c ***'''

A fingery and reachy masterpiece up the centre of the wall. Start in the centre of the wall, and undercut to a two
finger edge. Make a desperate lunge left for a very thin edge, and gain the break. Leaving this is problematical,
but the wall above is easier. Still considered to be the hardest route on SE Wales sandstone.

''M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 11.12.1988''

===Boston Strangler Area===

Following the path further to the right, is a bay with a prominent rectangular wall, normally marked by a waterfall.

'''49. Boston Strangler 21m Fr7b'''

Boston Strangler climbs the corner for 6m to avoid the waterfall at the base, then steps out onto the left wall, to
gain and climb the centre via tricky, hard to on-sight moves.

''M.Crocker 00.00.1990''

'''50. Exhumation Corner 20m E2,5c'''

A ‘never-dry’ route up the obvious angled, slabby corner. Probably better as an ice route.

''R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989''

'''51. Balance Sheet 21m Fr6a'''

The centre of the slab forming the right wall of the corner is delicate and enjoyable.

''R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989''

'''52. Expense Account 24m E3,5c'''

Follow a faint groove in the right-hand side of the slab, to gain a thin diagonal crack. Follow this leftwards to join
the finish of Balance Sheet.

''M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1989''

'''53. Cashflow Crisis 25m Fr6a+'''

The right arete of the wall, climbed on its right above the ledge at 18m. It can be made harder and better, by
avoiding the use of the holds on Balance Sheet at the top.

''G.Ashmore 03.05.1998''

The next route lies in a bay at a higher level. It can be accessed from the start of Cashflow Crisis. Trend right across
a ledge and under a roof. Continue for a few metres to gain a bay up on the left.

'''54. Open Project 8m'''

The left-hand line on the right wall of the bay.

'''55. Wert’s Famous Taxi Ride 8m Fr6b'''

A good route taking the crack just left of the right arete of the bay.

''G.Ashmore 01.05.1999''

===First Ascents===

<font size="1">

POOL WALL

1. ''G.Jenkin, R.Thomas 06.11.1988''

2. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 07.04.1996''

3. ''G.Gibson 30.03.1996''

4. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30.03.1996''

5. ''M.Ward, G.Jenkin, R.Thomas, M.Crocker 06.11.1988''

6. ''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 12.11.1988''

7. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 29.06.1996''

SINISTER WALLS

8. ''G.Gibson 29.06.1996''

9. ''R.Thomas 05.07.1996''

10. ''G.Gibson 04.05.1996''

11. ''G.Gibson 29.06.1996''

12. ''G.Gibson 28.04.1996''

13. ''G.Gibson 28.04.1996''

14. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.04.1996''

15. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 28.04.1996''

16. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 05.05.1996''

17. ''R.Thomas 01.07.1996''

18. ''R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.12.1996''

CASCADE WALLS

19. ''G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

20. ''G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

21. ''G.Gibson 30.03.1996''

22. ''G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

23. ''G.Gibson 03.02.1996''

24. ''G.Gibson, R.Thomas 16.03.1996''

25. ''G.Gibson, G.Ashmore 16.03.1996''

26. ''G.Gibson 17.03.1996''

SUB-CONTRACTOR'S WALL

27. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

28. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 31.03.1996''

29. ''R.Thomas, G.Gibson 05.04.1996''

30. ''G.Gibson 07.04.1996''

EXPANSIONIST WALL

31. The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd

32. On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman

33. Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

Top slab climbed via Owl&Ant. 2 weeks prior by M. Crocker

(no bolts and claimed retrospectively)

34. Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retrobolted 2007

35. Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd

36. Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - New bolt added 2006

37. Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd

38. Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore

39. Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes

40. Alco-troll - 2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles

41. Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 2008 - A.Rosier

42. Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker

43. The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan

Two unnamed E4 routes claimed by M Crocker, 1 on far left hand slabs, 1 on right hand retaining wall.</font>

User:Dafydd Jones

2009-04-23T21:49:09Z

Dafydd Jones: Created page with 'Sport climber'

Sport climber

SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

LLANBRADACH LOWER TIER

User:Dafydd Jones