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Three Cliffs

2017-05-14T16:15:18Z

Curon Davies: Add missing route from 1970 Gower Peninsular by Jeremy Talbot

{{Crag
|Name=Three Cliffs
|Rock Type=Natural Limestone
|Climbing Type=Traditional
|Located=Gower
|Lat/Long=51.569941, -4.111390
|Approach Time=30
|Faces=South
|Seepage=No
|Suitable Weather=All Weather
|Midges=No
|Tidal=Yes
|Climbing Possible=2.5
|Access=Unrestricted
}}
[[Category: Gower]]
[[File:Three cliffs perseverance.jpg|thumb|550px]]

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''GR 537 877''' to '''GR 543 875'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
[[Three Cliffs#Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs]] 3 hours.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No Bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
Protruding into the centre of a deep sandy bay to the South East of [[wikipedia:Penmaen,_Swansea#Penmaen|Penmaen]], [[Three Cliffs]] provides [[wikipedia:Gower|Gower]] with its most picturesque venue. Add to this its number of quality easy to mid-grade routes and its lack of seriousness and it is easy to see why the crag is extremely popular. [[Pobbles Bays#Pobbles Bay West|Pobbles Bay West]] lying only 100m to the east provides a useful overspill, or somewhere to retreat to when the tides threaten. [[Pobbles Bays#Pobbles Bay East|Pobbles Bay East]] is considerably more tidal but offers some easier routes, which are far better than the over-popular venue of [[King Wall]] and on better rock. [[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner|Scoop Corner]] is a recent rediscovery, perhaps worth a quick solo if in the area.

== ACCESS ==
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|centre=51.569941, -4.111390
|zoom=15
|Height=450
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing
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'''1. Penmaen Access'''

On the A4118 before [[wikipedia:Penmaen,_Swansea#Penmaen|Penmaen]], when approaching from [[wikipedia:Swansea|Swansea]] turn right (north) at a telephone kiosk and bench '''(GR 532 887)''', into a [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Cross back over the road to an obvious track (at North Hill Farm) and follow signposts for the beach. Cross the river via obvious stepping stones. The rear of the [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs]] is visible ahead. At low to mid tides, Pobbles Bay can be reached by walking eastwards round the front of the arch.

'''2. Southgate Access'''

Take the offshoot of the B4436 leading into Southgate, then a right-hand lane (Bendrick Drive) just after the Golf Club (it will be necessary to park a little further on and walk back). Follow a path through fields and round a wood to gain a path leading down through dunes to [[Pobbles Bays|Pobbles]]after about 15 minutes. It is also possible to follow the cliff top road and path as described in the [[Shire_Combe_To_Watch_House_East#ACCESS|Shire Combe area approach]].

== DESCENTS ==
Three Cliffs descents are by easy scrambling left (west) down the ridge and Pobbles West by easy scrambling at several places along the crag. Pobbles East and Scoop corner, by scrambling down and left in both cases.

== THE ROUTES ==
[[Image:Three cliffs pano2.jpg|550px|thumb|right|[[Three Cliffs]] Panorama]]
[[Image:caswell1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Under Milk Wood]]

'''GR SS 53829 67754'''

#'''Left Crack - 15m M''' At the left (west) end of the cliff, climb broken rock to a short slab, over this to a ledge, then up a crack to finish. 
#'''Right Crack I - 16m M''' Follow Left Crack to the ledge, then take the crack bearing up and right. 
#'''Wall Climb I - 9m D''' Climb the slab right of the lower section of Right Crack. 
#'''Cleft I - 10m D''' This is the first of the two obvious clefts right of ''Wall Climb'' I. 
#'''Wall Climb II - 10m D''' The slab to the right. 
#'''Cleft II - 11m VD''' Climb the right-hand of two clefts and the slab above, keeping left of a small block overhang. 
#'''Wall Climb - 11m D''' The narrow slab right of ''Cleft II'' and just left of a shallow corner, finishing by the right side of the block overhang. 
#'''Left Corner I - 11m M''' Climb the shallow corner bounding the left edge of a raised slab. 
#'''Initiation Flake - 12m S *''' Climb the raised slab in its centre. 
#'''Right Corner I - 12m D''' Takes the corner bounding the right edge of the raised slab. 
#'''Meander - 12m D''' Climb the slab right of the corner to finish on a ridge. In a recess between the first and second pinnacles lies a smooth slab topped by an overhang. 
#'''Bulge - 15m VD''' Climb the slabby wall left of a corner. 
#'''Left Corner II - 16m D''' This follows the corner bounding the slab on the left. 
#'''Piton Route - 16m HS 4b''' Missing in recent guidebooks. Climb the left side of the lower slab to the upper left section below the overhang where it is split by a crack above. Climb the overhang and follow the crack in the wall above to a ledge. 
#'''Inverted V 16m - HVS,4c *''' Boldly climb the centre of the slab to the apex of the overhang. Pull through this to finish. Rather low in the grade, but poor protection if the overhang is gained directly. 
#'''Spouse Crack - 16m S''' Climb the thin crack on the right side of the slab to an overhang at the top of the corner. Pull over this to gain an easy groove. Follow this or move left to the crack above the overhang. 
#'''Right Crack II - 15m S''' Follow Spouse Crack above the bulge, then move left by the overhang and follow the definite crack system running up above it. 
#'''Quartz Corner - 16m HS,4b''' This follows the narrow slabby corner right of the recessed slab. Climb this to a calcite slab, then move right over an overhang and go up a crack to the top. 
#'''Joggled Wall - 18m VD *''' Climb the rough brown slab right of ''Quartz Corner'', beginning just right of centre. Step left to avoid the overhang and enter a shallow corner. The left edge of the slab can be climbed at the same grade. 
#'''Joggled Wall Direct - 18m HS,4a *''' Takes the overhang Joggled Wall avoids. 
#'''Left Edge 17m - HS,4b''' This takes the left raised edge of the shiny slab right of Joggled Wall. Finish as for ''Joggled Wall Direct''. 
#'''Perseverance 18m HS,4b *''' Climb the centre of the shiny slab by some thin, well protected moves. A series of grooves and ridges to the right provide a variety of descents, centred around Right Corner. 
#'''Right Corner - II 18m M''' The smooth right-angled groove. [[Image:Scavenger area.jpg|thumb|500px|Scavenger Area]] 
#'''Arch Slab 24m - VS,4c **''' Start on the left wall outside the large cave, below a groove. Climb the groove until just above the lip of the cave. From a diagonal quartz break traverse right to the apex of the cave. Finish directly up the slab above. 
#'''Under Milk Wood - 21m VS,4a *''' An entertaining struggle up the slab within the left side of the cave. Follow the slab diagonally to a subsidiary cave and thread. Enter the cave and wriggle towards the light. Alternatively move the route to Pembroke, up the grade two or three notches, give it ten stars for quality and write tedious adventure stories about it. The largerframed will have to abseil off a tat before the top. 
#'''The Steal - 24m E4,6a *''' Often greasy. On the right side of the cave is a subsidiary slab running down from the apex of the cave. Start below the slab and gain it with difficulty, PR. Move up the slab to the apex, PR, then finish directly. 
#'''Scavenger 26m - VS,4c ***''' A classic line following the corner right of the cave. Make a tricky move up from a platform, to gain the corner, which is followed by a mixture of slab and crack manoeuvres. Finish at a ledge and PB. 
#'''Scavenger Variations - 26m VS,4c *''' Climb in from the right wall of the cave to a spike on the left edge of the Scavenger slab and join the parent route. From a point where the route is level with the cave apex, struggle rightwards up a steep wall to easier ground. 
#'''Hangel - 27m VS,4c''' Climb Scavenger until level with the start of a small recessed slab to the left. Swing right along an overhanging ramp to reach a slab above. Follow its left edge to belay near the PB of Scavenger. 
#'''October - 30m S''' A poor route that starts at the foot of Scavenger. Move up right to a ledge at 3m. Now follow a blocky gangway left, to swing onto the face above and to the right. Follow a series of vegetated grooves on the right to the top. 
#'''Plumb Line - 45m D''' Start at a slabby buttress at the foot of the third pinnacle. Climb the buttress and then the narrow raised slab to more broken slabs near the crest, which are followed to the top. 
#'''Disappointment - 45m D''' An obvious groove lies just right of the crest of Plumb Line. Climb this stepping right at two-thirds height into the narrower continuation groove. 
#'''Consolation - 31m VD''' This artificial but worthwhile line takes the slabs right of Disappointment. 
#'''Traverse Of The Three Pinnacles - 76m M *''' A good scramble from left (west) to right (east) keeping to the crest and taking in all the summits. 
#'''The Battle Of Midway - 150m VS,5b''' Traverse the crag from the left end, above the high water level, to gain Arch Slab. As for Arch Slab then step down into Scavenger, which is reversed to gain Scavenger Variations. Finish up Disapointment. 
#'''Back Beat - 25m E3,5c *''' A route taking the crack on the left side of the arch on the north (landward) side of the Three Cliffs Arch. Lower off rope advised. 

==First Ascents==
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1pt 1954/55'' ''R.Owens, C.Edwards 00.00.1959'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1959'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''C.Edwards, R.Owens, C.Andrews 00.00.1959'' 
#''C.Edwards, R.Owen, C. Andrews 00.00.1959'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 00.00.1959'' 
#''R.McElliot, R.Hoare 00.00.1984'' 
#''S.Lewis, A.Richardson, C.Curle 00.00.1987'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Kerry - Start 00.00.1970'' ''P.Greenwood, C.Ryan - Finish 00.00.1970'' 
#''R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 1954/55'' 
#''G.Blake, J.Blundell 00.00.1972'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55'' 
#''Unknown Pre-1970'' 
#''A.Berry solo 26.12.2000'' 
#''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 01.05.1994''

Gelli

2017-04-25T12:59:27Z

Curon Davies: correct location for parking

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:down under 1.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Chris Gilbert - Down Under (Fr.4+)]]

GR SS 982 945

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Quarried sandstone, the more the merrier.

== PREAMBLE ==
Now regeared will prove popular.

A bit of a flog to get to (10 mins uphill) but catches the late sun and has commanding views down the whole of Rhondda Fawr.

Lots for the Fr. 6a+ and below climber. A few remaining trad routes for the jaded which fitted the description on the "1989 tin" but who knows which "2012 tin" they belong in?

The rock is excellent and compact on the left side of the crag, more brittle on the right. The breezy elevated situation minimises the "midge factor"

If you wan't to top-rope your mates up the routes with fixed anchors kindly follow the accepted protocol and minimise wear by using your own quickdraws until the final go,those who climb outdoors have to learn how to thread an anchor sometime. Feel free to add or discard/replace worn lower offs.

== ACCESS ==
From the M4 Jct.34 take the A4119 highway to the Rhondda Valley arriving at Tonypandy. Do not go into the town but follow the road past the retail centre turning left on the B4223. Pass Glyncornel outdoor centre following the signs for Gelli. Park outside the Gelli Community Recycling Centre then walk left up the track past the sultry goats and well hung donkeys.
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== DESCENTS ==
Old fence posts for some of the trad routes. Sport routes have Lower Offs.
[[Image:empty talk.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Chris Gilbert - ''Empty Talk'' (Fr.6a)]]

== THE ROUTES ==
[[Image:Gelli left topo2.jpg|right|none|thumb|600px|'''Left Walls''']]
===Gelli left===
''Described from left to right facing the crag''
#'''Jockey Club - Fr. 6a **''' Even lefter side, not drawn on topo. 9 m 
#'''Horses Bolted - Fr. 6b **''' The wall past the small roof joining the lower off of previous. 9 m 
#'''Fools On Horses - Fr. 6a+ *''' The left side of the short black wall at the start of the crag. 9 m 
#'''Free Lunch - Fr. 6c''' Line of glue-in bolts. 9.69m. 
#'''Stable Boy's Breakfast - Fr. 6b **''' Results of a broken drill bit. 8 m 
#'''Green Arete - VS, 4c*''' The obvious green arete. A bold airy route. Belay on posts. 11 m 
#'''K.E.S - HVS, 5a **''' Slabby wall right of the arete. Another classic bold must for true climbers. Historic "special" PR near top. 11m. 
#'''Kestrel For A Knave - Fr. 4''' The right side of the slabby wall. 11m 
#'''Joey's Full Pint - Very Open Project''' Life's too short, sometimes you have to leave the very best for those more deserving. Dig your way up the corner. 11 m 
#'''Mr Farthing - Severe''' The crack, jolly bad show not to play with your nuts and clip the handy bolts. 10 m 
#'''Miss Halfpenny - Fr. 4''' Contrived, attempts to climb the red tower, step out of the righthand crack then up the arete. 11m ''To the right is another wall'' 
#'''Feeling Lucky - Fr. 6a *''' 
#'''Wot No Metal - E1, 5c''' The Y-crack just right of the arete. 9 m 
#'''Little Treasure - Fr. 6a+''' Scooped wall. 9 m 
#'''Toil - HVS, 5a''' Faint crack just left of grassy crack, resist the temptation to step into it. 9 m 
#'''My Little Pony's On The Job - Fr. 5+ *''' Climb the left edge of the next wall which is right of the grassy crack. Avoid the crack until just below the top. Shared belay on the right. 10 m 
#'''Galvanised - Fr. 6a+ **''' Curving crack on wall right of grassy crack, move left to belay or use belay above ledge at Fr. 6a. 9 m 
#'''Lost In Time - Fr. 6b+ *''' Forgotten when the old hanger was relocated. Left of the now obvious Pine, first hanger spins hard bouldery start. 9m. 
#'''Hoarse Trader - Fr. 4+''' The arete right of the pine tree. 10 m 
#'''Marinated Goat Cheese - Fr. 4''' Start from the grassy steps a little further right. 9 m 

===Red Walls===
''Down and right is a red wall and an adjacent slab'' 
[[Image:Gelli-red-wall2.jpg|400px|thumb|right|none|''Titanium Man'' to ''Down Under'']] 
#'''Squeezing The Curd - Fr. 5''' The short wall at the left side of this section, continue up ''Marinated Goat Cheese'' or walk off. 4 m 
#'''The Babcock Test - Fr. 6b''' Short but sharp, avoid stepping into the bounding cracks. 6 m 
#'''Titanium Man - E1, 5b''' Steep crack R of grassy chimney. Now dug out. 9 m 
#'''Straight From The Frog's Mouth - Fr ?''' Closed Project. 9 m 
#'''Cigarillo - Fr.6b *''' Crack just to right, shared belay above the grass slope. 9 m 
#'''Tobacco King - Fr. 6c+ *''' Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay. 9 m 
#'''Down Under - Fr. 4+ **''' Start at the bottom left side of the slab stepping R, finish more steeply L of the arete. 15m 

===Recessed Wall===
[[Image:Recessed wall.jpg|800px|thumb|[[#Recessed Wall|Recessed Wall]]]]
''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor'' 
#'''Working To A Budget - Fr. 4+''' Two stepped walls just left of the tree stump. Fully equipped despite breaking the budget. 13m. 
#'''Hung Like A Donkey - Fr. 6a ''' Left side of wall next to sycamore tree (stump), avoid the crack to the left. 14 m 
#'''All Talk - Fr. 6a+''' The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack, make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step left to shared belay of Hung.... 15 m 
#'''Talking Hoarse - Fr. 5+''' Gain and follow the faint groove. 15 m 
#'''Little Taff - Fr. 6a+ * ''' Thin crack on the left side of wall, belay above small strip roof. 12 m 
#'''Stubborn As A Mule - Fr 5''' Once rubbly crack now cleaned and equipped.Only one carabiner on the belay so either(most inconveniently) leave your own or use belays on adjacent climbs 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Whisperer - Fr. 6b *''' A seriously hollow start but good climbing nevertheless. A trying crux at half height and pumpy thereafter. 12 m 
#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier - Fr. 6b **''' Wall to right immediately left of grassy corner crack, double "twizzle" belay. 12 m 
#'''Something That Came Up Much Later - Fr. 4''' The corner bridging out to a belay on the grass ledge. 12 m 
#'''Unearthed - HS *''' Crack in sidewall then groove above ledge. Shared belay in place just below the top. 12 m 

===Gelli Right===
''On the next wall to the right''
[[Image:Gelli right from corner.jpg|700px|thumb|right|none|Gelli Right]] 
#'''Ladyboy's Cage - Fr. 6a''' Can you escape the cage? Do you want to escape the cage? If you try to escape will it make the ladyboy angry? Why are you wearing tight red pants? The left side of the wall via prominent flake to shared belay chain. 8m 
#'''Worzel Budgie Spunker - Fr. 6b+''' Delicate yet brutal route following the crack up and rightwards. Shared belay chain. 
#'''Talking Shop - Fr. 6a''' The vague arete after gaining the left end of the ledge. Take care not to try and use the rubble on the left. 12 m 
#'''Hoarse Breather - Fr. 5+''' Gain the large flake on the ledge, continue on spaced jugs to the shared belay chain of ''Talking Shop''. 12m 
#'''Snorting Horse - E1, 5a''' The diagonal crack starting up ''Talking Shop'' and finishing at the belay of ''Empty Talk''. Be strong don't clip the bolts. 12 m 
#'''Worzel Cloaca Sniffer - Fr. 6a+ *''' Gain the ledge, continue to the flaring crack and pod, single bolt lower off. It is possible to go right and lower off ''Empty Talk'' at a slightly harder Fr. 6b. 12 m 
#'''Empty Talk - Fr.6a *''' Gain the large graffitied ledge, continue steeply to the belay on the tower. 12 m 
#'''Gilding The Lily - Fr. 6a *''' Gain the right side of the ledge. Pull up on big wobblies and lay away off the small blocky roof to gain two magnificent pockets in the wall above. 12 m 
#'''Polishing The Turd - Fr. 5''' The most apt route name in a generation and a classic triumph of extreme cleaning. Shares belay on the left. 12 m 
#'''Ice Station Gelli - Fr. 6a+ *''' Starting from the floor right of the graffitied ledge. Toughest at the start. 12m. 
#'''One In Her Eye - Fr. 6b+ **''' Immediately left of the grassy step with a tricky move at 3rd bolt and pumpy headwall. 12m 
#'''Send In The Specials - Fr. 6a+ *''' Step left from the grassy step at the right side of the wall. 12 m 
#'''Hole In One - Fr. 5+''' Direct from grass step via several large pockets. 10 m ''Follow the track up and right'' 
#'''Donkey Work - Fr. 6a+''' The short, steep wall rising out of a small bay where the track leads up on the right(staples). 8 m 

==First Ascents==


GELLI LEFT

#Roy Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2012
#R.Thomas N.O'Neill July 2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2013
#Ollie Burrows Hazel Watchorn 22.05.2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore Eugene T. Jones 2013
#Gary Lewis 1989
#M.Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#R.Thomas(solo) 17/06/2013
#open project
#R.Thomas 17/06/2013
R.Thomas 17/06/2013
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#Roy Thomas G Royle 1989
#Mick Learoyd R.Thomas 1989
#G. Lewis 1989
#R. Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 22/05/2012
#R. Thomas G. Royle 1990
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1990
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas Ed Rees 29/05/2012

RED WALLS

# R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2012
#G. Royle R.Thomas M.Learoyd 1990
#Closed Project
#M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1990
#M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes, R.Thomas 1990
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd, G Royle, L.Foulkes

RECESSED WALL
#R.Thomas(solo) 26/05/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 22/05/2013
#R.Thomas D. Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, L. Foulkes, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R,Leyshon, R.Phillips 03/05/2013
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, E.Rees, D.Emanuel 29/05/2012
#R.Thomas, solo 1989

GELLI RIGHT
#D.Emanuel Ed Rees 2012
#D.Emanuel 2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 20/06/2012
#R.Thomas G.Royle 1989
#R.Thomas, R.Leyshon 25/07/2012
#R.Thomas, N.O'Neill 20/05/2012
#R.Thomas, G.Ashmore 24/04/2013
#R.Thomas G.Ashmore 15/05/2013
#M.Learoyd, G.Lewis 1990
#R. Thomas, N. O'Neill Aug 2012
#R.Thomas, G.Royle 1990
#G. Lewis, M.Learoyd 1990
#R.Thomas, R.Phillips, R.Leyshan 22/05/2012

Morlais Quarries

2017-04-21T16:11:12Z

Curon Davies: Improve access info

[[Category:Inland Limestone]]
[[File:Morlais.jpg|right|thumb|700px|Cimber on Arisk. Photograph Courtesy of Mark Salter]]

GR SO047098

GPS co-ordinates: N 51 46.664 W 003 33.980 (this is the point where the path up through the woods crosses the tramroad into the crag)

==BOLTING POLICY==
No Bolting.

==PREAMBLE==
A series of four limestone quarries situated on the west and north slopes of Morlais Hill about 1¾ miles north of [[wikipedia:Merthyr Tydfil|Merthyr Tydfil]]. Each of the quarries has its own atmosphere; the [[#Lower Tier|Lower Tier]] with its grassy base and extensive ledges has a pleasant, sheltered feel, the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]] is very open and popular with groups. It has plenty of routes at all grades and provides good views north to the Brecon Beacons. The [[#Upper Tier|Upper Tier]] has a secluded feel despite being the closest to the road, whilst the East Tier is situated in an industrial moonscape.

Generally the climbs are clean and free of debris, although they can be a little polished on the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]]. The quarries get plenty of sun but are hideous places to climb if at all wet.

Note that car theives are extremely active in this area, so leave no valuables in your vehicles.

==ACCESS==
#'''Lower, Middle and Upper Tiers''' Approach from the roundabout at the junction between the [[wikipedia:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heads_of_the_Valleys| A465 Heads of the Valleys road]] and the [[wikipedia:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A470|A470]] Cardiff to Brecon road. Follow the [[wikipedia: A465|A465]] east and take the first exit after 1/4 mile. This leads to an offset crossroads. Head almost straight across the junction sign-posted Pontsticill - Torpantau - Talybont. Follow the road through Trefechan to eventually reach a junction just before a pub (Aberglais Inn). For the [[#Lower Tier|Lower]] and [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tiers]] park on the sweeping bend of the road here, or ask the pub owners if you can use their car park. To get to the crag, head north up the road slightly, and follow the footpath that starts near the entrance to car park of the (currently closed and boarded up) Pontsarn Inn. From the north side of the carpark a path descends to a disused railway line. Head right on the old platform under the road bridge and cross the viaduct; then turn right onto the Morlais Heritage Trail. Almost immediately turn left to ascend steeply up a path to the centre of the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]]. For the [[#Upper Tier|Upper Tier]] and alternative approach to the middle tiers turn right (signposted Dowlais) over a bridge and up a hill. Before the top of the hill (GR 049092) a minor junction is reached with a disused tramway leading off to the left. Park around here (considerately). A fence with an access point 100m right of the tramway provides access to the [[#Upper Tier|Upper Tier]], whilst the tramway itself is followed pleasantly to the [[#Windy Wall|Windy Wall]] section of the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]].
#'''East Tier''' Approach from the [[#Lower Tier|Lower]] or [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]] by walking up and southeast to GR SO056096 – an obvious north-facing buttress with two vertical cracks bounded to the left by a corner. Alternmatively approach from the [[wikipedia:Brecon Mountain Railway|Brecon Mountain Railway]] Station GR SO059098 by walking along the base of the quarried escarpment westwards to the crag.

==DESCENTS==
Walk off at various points.

==THE ROUTES==
===Lower Tier===
The right-hand end of the cliff is reached by a path descending from the left end of the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]] beneath the [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]]. The left end of the cliff is bounded by an earth mound, whilst the centre has a descent path running from left to right.

#'''Terminal Arete''' 15m VD A broken slab above the top of the earth mound at the left end of the quarry. 
#''' More Lice''' 15m VS,4c At the base of the earth mound is a buttress, climb a depression in the centre of this to a ledge and saplings. Finish either up the groove or the wall to its right (better, but bold). 
#'''Maul Ice''' 15m S On the right side of the buttress is a borehole, climb just right of this to a small grassy ledge. Finish up the corner. 25m right again are some bushes on a grassy ledge 2m above the quarry floor. 
#'''Noviciate''' 24m S Just left of the bushes is a cracked groove. Climb this to a grass ledge, step right and continue up the wall and short groove to finish straight up the wall. 
#'''Hawthorn Wall''' 27m S Behind the bushes is another groove, climb this to a grass ledge, then continue up the wall trending right to ledge. Finish up the groove on the left. 
#'''Comici Special''' 27m HVS,5a Climb a short left facing corner 5m right of Hawthorn Special to a ledge, then walls via another grass ledge. Finish via a groove and crack. 5m right again is a hawthorn bush with a short blocky arete above it. 
#'''Delivery''' 27m HVS,5a * Ascend the wall 1m left of the bush to a ledge, move left and up ledges to a groove, then right to the top. 
#'''Manibus Abort''' 30m VS,4b Climb the groove above the bush to a grass ledge, then up to a frail tree. Traverse left to the groove of ''Delivery'' and then step right and climb a steep wall and short walls above. 
#'''R.I.P'''. 24m VS,4b Right again is a left-facing corner, just left of an arete. Climb the corner to a grass ledge, traverse left to a steep, loose, groove which is followed to the top. 
#'''The Sickle''' 24m VS,4c * Climb the left-hand of a trio of grooves just right of the arete to a grassy terrace. Continue up for 3m, move right and then follow a groove to the top. 
#'''Central Groove''' 7m S The central groove. 
#'''The Grunt''' 7m HVS,5b Layback strenuously up the right-hand groove. 
#'''Raspberries''' 25m HVS,4c Climb the shattered crack between ''The Grun''t and ''Greenmantle'', then follow the discontinuous walls above. 
#'''Greenmantle''' 27m HVS,5a * Climb the borehole 3m right of ''The Grunt'' to a grassy terrace then mantleshelf on to a small ledge 3m left of the arete. Follow discontinuous walls above, keeping just left of the arete. A wide ledge (descent route) now crosses the face at half-height. The next routes start from this. 
#'''Wall Street''' 7m E1,5a An unprotected route climbing the wall just left of centre and above a bush. 
#'''Bahama Crisis''' 7m HVS,5b The vague crack midway between ''Wall Street'' and ''Cerebellum''. Right again is a tufaceous scoop with cracks on either side of it. 
#'''Cerebellum''' 7m HVS,5b * Climb the left-hand crack. There is an alternative version, which gains the scoop from the crack. 
#'''Khamil Rhouge''' 12m E2,6a * Start as for the scoop version of ''Cerebellum'', but finish up the right-hand side of the nose of the scoop. 
#'''Compact''' 7m VS,4b Climb the right-hand crack past a small tree. 
#'''Corset''' 36m VS,4c This pleasant traverse requires a good knowledge of the next few routes. Either start up ''Corset'', or begin at the right end of the ledge of ''Exile''. Climb up and move right, go round the corner to a ledge and continue to a small groove (PR on ''The Go Between''). Traverse across grass ledges around an arete and step down to a grassy ledge beneath the summit overhang. Step right and finish as for ''Narcotic''. To the right the wall is crossed by a rightward-sloping ramp. 
#'''Crisis, What Crisis?''' 12m E4,6b Climb the vague aretes between ''Compact'' and ''Exile'' with a hard start. 
#'''Exile''' 12m E3,5c Committing with no protection. Start left of the ramp and then follow it to a red groove. Leave the groove by moving left to reach good holds near the top. 
#'''Dead Red''' 12m E3,5c As for ''Exile'' to the red groove but continue rightwards to gain a second groove. 
#'''Morlais Eliminate''' 12m E3,5c The wall immediately right of ''Dead Red'' is poorly protected. Climb it to a poor PR at a thin overlap and continue via a short crack to a move left at the top. 
#'''Triple Cross''' 17m E3,5c * Climb the shallow groove between ''Dead Red'' and ''The Go Between'', exit right to a small toe ledge then up left to the top. 
#'''The Go Between''' 27m E2,5b * Start 3m right of a tree. Climb easily to a short groove leading to the top, PR. 
#'''Whispering Grass''' 33m HVS,5a Start at a corner at the back of a small bay, 6m right of the tree. Climb the corner past two ledges to finish up and right above a bush on grassy ledges. 
#'''Busy Bee''' 33m HS,4a Climb the buttress 3m right of the small bay, then follow the shallow arete until it merges into a corner and a finishing crack. 
#'''Gallery''' 30m VS,4b * Bold in the middle. Climb a corner above a grass ledge 4m right of ''Busy Bee'' and 6m left of a prominent borehole. From its top follow a further groove until a grass ledge can be reached on the right. Move leftwards and follow a corner on the left side of the summit overhang. 
#'''Narcotic''' 30m VS,4b Ascend the groove 2m right of ''Gallery'' to a ledge. Move slightly right and climb water-stained rock to the right side of the summit overhang and the top. 
#'''Bore''' 12m HVS,5a Climb the borehole 4m right of ''Narcotic'' to a ledge. Follow water-worn grooves up to an easy rightward-traverse just below the top. 
#'''Green Corner''' 12m S The obvious corner is climbed to a big ledge. Walk right to a groove which is followed to the top. 
#'''Flake Crack''' 12m VD The crack on the right wall of the corner. Walk right along the ledge to gain the finishing groove. 
#'''Double Constraint''' 12m S Right of ''Green Corner'' is a small bay with a shallow groove in its left wall. Climb this to a ledge and then a tree. Move right to finish up the groove. 
#'''T.A.P.''' 6m VD 10m right of ''Double Constraint'' is a small tree at the base of a groove, gain and climb the groove. 

===Middle Tier===
At the left-hand end is a bay whose right-hand side is formed by the obvious [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]]. Right of this is easier angled terrain, terminating in the vertical [[#Castle Bay|Castle Bay]]. After some more broken ground ([[#The Ramparts|The Ramparts]]) the crag regains its composure with [[#Windy Wall|Windy Wall]] which lies above a platform of rock and has overhangs at the top.

#'''Old Friends''' 13m VD The arete of the left wall of [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]] Bay.

====Great Wall====
#'''To The Batmobile''' 15m HVS,5b * Start on a ledge a third of the way up the left-hand side of the [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]]. Climb a crack past a sapling with a hard move left near the top. 
#'''Grace Under Pressure''' 15m E1,5b The wall right of To The ''Batmobile''. 
#'''Phobia''' 18m E1,5b * Climb the obvious water-worn groove, to the overlap. Traverse right along a sloping ramp then finish direct. 
#'''The Rattling Finish''' 17m E2,5c * As for ''Phobia'', but climb the overhang direct. 
#'''Blade Runner''' 18m E3,5c ** Good technical climbing. Climb ''Phobia'' for 3m, then move right to a narrow ledge. Climb straight up then right to another ledge, PR. Follow the crack leftwards to finish as for ''Phobia''. 
#'''Morlais in a Tramps Vest''' - E5 6a ** Start as for Rogues Gallery, gain ledge on left at 20ft, move slightly left and climb direct to join Blade Runner, from its second PR climb direct via a great move on undercuts to gain good holds and the top. The starting section shared with Rogues Gallery is very bold and has a nasty landing! 18m. 
#'''Rogues Gallery''' 18m E5,6b * Start just right of ''Phobia'' at a shallow groove. Climb the groove to a thin ledge on the left. Move up right, BR (missing) and continue boldly to a ledge at two-thirds height. Move left to a thin finishing crack. 
#'''No Mercy''' 21m E6,6c * The wall between ''Rogues Gallery'' and ''Partners in Crime''. A faint thin crack leads to a ledge. Move up rightwards via ripples to pass a BR (missing). Finish with less difficulty. 
#'''Partners in Crime''' 18m E5,6c ** Start below a line of thin cracks on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to where it fades, then make hard moves to pass a PR. Continue, PR, to reach a ledge at two-thirds height. Traverse left to finish up a thin crack. 
#'''Fly Arete''' 18m HS Start 2m left of the right arete of the [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]]. Climb the wall to swing right onto a ledge on the arete. Follow the arete to the top. 
#'''Massascent Groove''' 18m VD * The groove and crack starting to the right of the arete of the [[#Great Wall|Great Wall]]. 
#'''Ledge Way''' 18m VD Right again is an open left-facing corner. Climb the corner or its left wall, then either move left to a ledge or continue direct up the corner. Finish straight up the groove or step right to ledges. 
#'''Eliminate Slab''' 18m HVS,4b The smooth face just right of the corner is bold. 
#'''Tiptoe''' 15m S * Right of ''Eliminate Slab'' is a ledge at 1m. Climb the shallow right-facing corner above the ledge. 
#'''Spectacle''' 15m VD * About 2m right of ''Tiptoe'' is a borehole. Climb the shallow indefinite groove above it. 
#'''Serpent''' 15m VD Start just left of an overhanging block. Climb over the small overlap and finish up easy slabs above. 
#'''Lost Groove''' 15m D The left-hand groove between the overhanging block and a narrow prow. Scrambling remains. 
#'''Two Corners''' 15m VD * The right-hand groove between the overhanging block and a narrow prow. Climb the groove and corner above. 
#'''S.T.E.P.''' 15m S Climb the groove right of the prow to ledges. Finish via the corner up and to the right. 

====Castle Bay====
Castle Bay is the steeply walled bay 12m right of the narrow prow. In the back wall of the bay are some obvious polished grooves – the line of Top Cat.

#'''Gold Medal''' 13m VS,4b This takes the blank-looking wall left of the grooves of ''Top Cat''. 
#'''Top Cat''' 13m S The obvious polished grooves in the back wall of the bay. 
#'''Name Game''' 13m HS,4a Interesting climbing up the wall right of ''Top Cat''. 
#'''Great Corner''' 13m S * The back corner of the bay is good, but can be wet. 
#'''Castle Wall''' 11m VS,4b * The first obvious crack on the right wall of [[#Castle Bay|Castle Bay]]. 
#'''Arisk''' 9m VS,4b Climb a thin crack in the centre of the wall right of Castle wall. Climb diagonally right (4b) or directly up (4c) from the ledge to finish. 
#'''Squeeze''' It In 9m E1,5a Contrived. Climb the wall right of ''Arisk'' to a ledge. Move left into ''Arisk'' and finish direct. 
#'''Wall Cracks''' 6m HVS,5a * The thin cracks at the right end of the wall, PRs. 

====The Ramparts====
[[#Castle Bay|Castle Bay]] ends at a short arete. About 5m right of the arete is a ledge and corner at two-thirds height.

#'''Dirty Corner''' 9m D Reach the ledge at 6m via a groove on the left (D), or more enjoyably by the steep buttress beneath (5a) or the wall to the right (4b). 
#'''Sixties Groove''' 9m VD The pleasant, shallow, left-facing groove/corner right of ''Dirty Corner''. 
#'''Easy Route''' 12m M About 3m right of ''Sixties Route'' is a gently-angled, polished groove. There now follows a 50m section of broken cliff before a more continuous section rises from a rock platform some 5m above the quarry floor. About 8m left of a tree at the left end of the platform is a low-angled buttress. 
#'''Rocks Like The Rockies''' 18m S Climb the groove in the gently angled buttress to the overlap. Traverse left beneath the overlap to finish up another groove. 

====Windy Wall====
This crag lies above the rock platform at the right end of the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]]. Above the left end of the platform is a ledge.

#'''Griptight''' 6m HS,4b Climb the corner to the left of an obvious horizontal scaffolding bar. 
#'''Gripfix''' 7m HS,4b Climb the centre of the wall right of ''Griptight'' starting at the scaffolding bar. 
#'''Parting Company''' 18m S From the left end of the main face of [[#Windy Wall|Windy Wall]] climb a shallow groove to a ledge. Finish up another groove formed by the left side of two detached blocks. 
#'''Windy''' 18m HVS,5b Start beneath the right of the detached blocks. Climb the serious lower wall, then the crack splitting the blocks. 
#'''Pullover''' 18m HVS,5a A serious climb starting just right of a borehole. Climb up left to a shallow recess then over the overhang and up the wall above. 
#'''Breezing''' 18m HVS,5b Climb the wall 2m right of ''Pullover'', PR. Finish past the left end of the overhang. 
#'''Overdrive''' 18m E1,5a Climb the wall 2m right of ''Pullover'' to the overhang, which is climbed on its right side. 
#'''Oxo''' 18m VS,4b Climb to the steep corner on the right of the overhangs, then traverse left to beneath blocks. Pass the blocks on either side. 
#'''Philanderer''' 13m VS,4c * Start as for ''Oxo'' but continue up the corner. 
#'''Blue Buska''' 13m E3,5c * Climb up to a bulge just right of ''Philanderer'', gain the hanging groove via a gymnastic move (2 old BRs) and follow it to the top. 
#'''Grease Monkey''' 12m VD Climb the open left-facing groove 2m right of ''Philanderer''. 
#'''Groovy''' 12m S This takes the obvious clean cut groove just right of ''Grease Monkey''. 
#'''Pull Through''' 12m S Climb the worn slab just right of ''Groovy'', to finish through a gap in the blocky overhang. 
#'''Blockhead''' 12m S Climb the right side of the narrow slab to pass right of the overhangs via a short groove. 
#'''Tree Corner''' 12m S * Climb the obvious tree-less groove in the centre of the buttress. 
#'''Split Buttress''' 12m VD Climb the shallow groove in the front of the small prow, then the left side of the wall above. 
#'''Fork Left''' 9m VS,4c Right of the small prow is a groove that splits at half-height. Climb the left fork. 
#'''Fork Right''' 9m S,4a Follow Fork Left but finish by the right fork. 
#'''Sting''' 8m VD Climb the groove 2m right of the ''Fork'' routes. 

===Upper Tier===
Some 100m right of the left-hand end of the quarry is hawthorn tree at the top of the crag. Below are a grey wall and a left to right slanting ramp.

#'''Bypass''' 13m D Begin beneath an arete (''Elastic'') 4m left of the hawthorn at the top. Climb the rightward-slanting ramp. 
#'''Elastic''' 10m VS,4b The left arete of the wall above ''Bypass'', avoiding easy ground on the left. 
#'''Guts''' 10m VS,4b Follow ''Bypass'' to a small arete. From the arete, climb the wall above. 
#'''After Dinner Crack''' 10m VS,4b Follow ''Bypass'', then a thin crack 1m right of ''Guts''. 
#'''Extension''' 9m HVS 5a About 1m right of the finish of ''Bypass'' is a short wall leading to some cracks. Climb these to pull through a steep area onto the arete. Finish next to Bypass. 
#'''Left Hand Trinity''' 9m E1,5b The first of three cracks that start above ledge-ridden ground. Bold and with some very loose rock at the top. Poor. 
#'''Central Trinity''' 9m VS,4b The second crack is steep and sustained but with slightly better rock than its harder neighbour. 
#'''Right Hand Trinity''' 9m S The third crack has plenty of protection but still retains worrying finishing holds. 
#'''Ledge and Corner''' 9m VD The corner that starts above the ledges just right of ''Right Hand Trinity''. 
#'''Intermission''' 16m VS,4c The wall is now higher. Climb the slight left-facing groove, avoiding the worst rock by moving out onto the arete. 
#'''The Writer''' 16m VS,4b Right of Intermission is a shallow right-facing corner. Gain this, then climb it, taking care with the rock. A diagonal descent rake leads down to the next section. About 15m right of the base of the descent is a hawthorn tree some 3m up, above a trio of ledges below a white wall. 
#'''Hiccup''' 15m HVS,4c About 4m left of the hawthorn is a flake crack. Climb the wall right of the flake crack until it is possible to swing left above it. Climb the wall above. 
#'''Morning Star''' 15m E3,6a * The wall 3m right of ''Hiccup''. 
#'''Clive’s Crack''' 21m HVS,5a Start 3m right of the tree. Reach a borehole and follow this to reach a grassy ledge on the right. 
#'''Fairy Steps''' 27m VD This climbs the obvious diagonal line from right to left, starting 10m right of ''Clive’s Crack''. 
#'''Evening Gem''' 18m E4,6a * The line of the quarry. Climb the shallow, rounded groove above the start of ''Fairy Steps'' and 3m left of a brown stain. Exit left or directly and climb the short wall to a tree. 
#'''Autonomy''' 18m E2,5b Climb the series of grooves between ''Evening Gem'' and the brown stain, to a final wide crack. 
#'''Stretch''' 18m VS,4b Climb the brown-stained wall moving left to a groove just above half-height. 
#'''Zig Zag''' 27m HS,4a This climbs the right to left ramp 5m right of ''Stretch''. 
#'''Hair Of The Dog''' 12m E3,6a * Start just right of ''Zig Zag'' and climb between two flakes to follow a borehole, PR. 
#'''Afternoon Delight''' 9m E2,5c * Start at a tree 9m right of ''Hair Of The Dog''. Climb the wall PR, then mantleshelf left to a faint corner at the top. 
#'''High Noon''' 9m E2,6a * The crack and short corner 2m right of ''Afternoon Delight'', PR. A broken section of crag runs across to a protruding wall. 
#'''Snuff Stuff''' 9m VS,4b The slanting groove in the left side of the wall. Unprotected. 
#'''Compact Slab''' 10m VD The compact slab 12m right of ''Snuff Stuff'' is gained from its left edge and exited on its left. A direct start is 6a. 

Midway between the [[#Upper Tier|Upper Tier]] and the tramline to the [[#Middle Tier|Middle Tier]] is another quarry with a good section of rock at its centre. This has produced a number of climbs up to 15m in height at various grades. No documentation of these climbs has come to light, so the faces remain for your unconstrained pleasure.

===East Tier===
See Approach 2 for access to this north-facing buttress. It has two vertical cracks and is bounded on the left by a corner.

#''' Little Owl''' 15m S Climb the corner. 
#''' One Between The Eyes''' 15m HVS,5a The left-hand crack. 
#''' Terminator''' 15m E2,5c The fainter right-hand crack. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==
'''Lower Tier'''
#C.Shorrock 00.08.2001 
#M.Salter, C.Shorrock 00.10.2001 
#C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 
#C.Mortlock Pre-1973 
#C.Mortlock Pre-1973 
#J.Harwood, P.Thomas 00.00.1975 
#J.Harwood, S.Lewis 00.00.1976 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#A.Sharp, S.Evans 00.00.1974 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 
#P.Thomas solo Pre-1991 
#P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.08.1984 
#Unknown 00.00.1973 
#T.Penning, G.Horler 00.00.1983 
#T.Penning, K.Barrat 00.00.1983 
#J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 00.00.1976 
#L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.06.1986 
#J.Harwood solo Pre-1985 
#J.Harwood, J.Matthews 00.00.1976 
#A.Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 
#A. Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 
#A. Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 
#T.Penning 00.00.1984 
#T.Penning, P.Cresswell 00.00.1983 
#J.Harwood, I.Carey 00.00.1976 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1980 
#J.Harwood, P.Thomas''' 00.00.1975 
#J.Harwood, S.Lewis 00.00.1976 
#J.Harwood, P.Thomas 00.00.1973 
#S.Lewis, J.Harwood 00.00.1976 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1976 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#D. Ellis Pre-1974 
#Unknown Pre-1991 

'''Middle Tier'''
#D.Webb, C.Shorrock 00.00.2001 

'''Great Wall'''
#D.Hillier, A.Cummings 00.00.1982 
#A.Cummings 00.00.1980 
#P.Watkin A1 Pre-1973 FFA P.Thomas, J.Harwood 00.00.1975 
#T.Penning, A.Sharp 00.00.1982 
#T.Penning, A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1982 
#M.Richards and A.Sharp 03.08.14 
#G.Gibson 00.09.1984 
#G.Gibson 00.05.1985 
#C.Jones - Partners A1 00.00.1970 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1983 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1973 

'''Castle Bay'''
#A.Sharp, P.Hamer 00.00.1984 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#P.Hamer, A.Sharp 00.00.1984 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#G.Horler, N.Ward, M.Rose, M.Broomfield, S.Rack, D.Barton 00.00.1984 
#J.Harwood 00.00.1975 

'''The Ramparts'''
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1970 
#Unknown Pre-1973 
#C.Shorrock, D.Webb 00.00.2001 

'''Windy Wall'''
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#J.Harwood 00.00.1976 
#K.Hughes, D.Hillman 00.00.1970 
#C.Court, K.Anderson, A.Jones 00.00.1984 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#T.Penning, A.Sharp 00.00.1982 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1971 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1971 
#Unknown Pre-1978 

'''Upper Tier'''
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#J.Harwood solo 00.08.1980 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1980 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#M.Salter, C.Shorrock 00.10.2001 
#C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#J.Harwood solo 00.00.1975 
#T.Penning, J.Harwood 00.00.1985 
#J. Harwood 00.00.1975 
#Unknown Pre-1978 
#P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 00.00.1977 P.George, A.N.Other - Direct 00.00.1989 
#J.Harwood, W.Gray 00.00.1977 
#Unknown Pre-1991 
#P.Watkin 00.00.1970 
#T.Penning, C.Court 00.00.1985 
#C.Court, T.Penning 00.00.1985 
#C.Court, T.Penning 00.00.1985 
#T.Penning solo 00.00.1985 
#M.Salter 00.10.2001 

'''East Tier'''
#A.Giles. R.Davies 00.00.1988 
#A.Giles, R.Davies 00.00.1988 
#R.Powles, A.Hughes 00.00.1988

Paviland Main Cliff

2016-06-01T14:07:26Z

Curon Davies: Correct route length based last week. 50m ropes requies a belay.

[[Image:Bird_ban.png|right|thumb|''Restrictions apply from 1 May - 31st July. Reason - Nesting Birds'' - Please avoid the viciniy of ''East Gully Groove'']]
[[Category:Gower]]
[[Contents]]

[[Gower]]

[[Paviland and Juniper Wall]]

==ACCESS==
Seasonal restriction on the routes in the vicinity of ''East Gully Groove''. Please see the [https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=1344| '''BMC RAD Database''']

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Non-tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either walk inland to gain the stile at the top of the dry valley or abseil from the huge ring bolt at the top of the cliff (51.550388, -4.255550) above ''East Gully Groove'' (see [[Paviland and Juniper Wall#Paviland Main Cliff|Access section]]).

Routes below ''East Gully Groove'' end at the base of the main cliff, so the descent is as for the approach. The routes are described from right to left since this is the direction of approach.

The first feature to be seen is a large cave (Paviland Cave). High above and to the left is ''Shelob’s Cave''. Immediately left is an obvious groove/gully with numerous holes ''East Gully Groove''. Left again is a prominent calcite encrusted crack, taken by ''The Ring''. There are many possible variations linking up routes, but only the major ones are described.

The slabby buttress above Paviland Cave is loose and not recommended although routes have been recorded. The first route described is situated on the east face (i..e overlooking the dry valley), above blow holes at the base of the cliff.

== THE ROUTES ==
1. '''Polly's Route 56m VD'''

Take a vague line up the cleanest section of the slab, then trend up the crest of the ridge to finish at will.

The next route climbs through Shelob's Cave, high above Paviland Cave.

[[Image:Shelob.JPG|right|500px|thumb|Shelob's Cave]]
2. '''Shelob 36m HS,4b *'''

"Don't do ''Shelob'' if you are fat or pregnant!" (Jeremy Talbot 1997). An unusual route, with daft finishing moves in an exposed position. An optional stance is available in the cave. Climb easy vegetated slabs right of the obvious trench of ''East Gully Groove'', heading for the cave. Climb up the back of the cave and make a contorted sequence of moves, many old TRs, to exit through the hole. Short legs are an advantage.

3. '''East Gully Groove 36m HVS,5a **'''

A good, well protected route. Climb the obvious gully in its entirety, passing Jeremy Talbot's workshop at halfheight. Finish rightwards at the top. Some of the tats are getting a bit worse for wear.

The routes between ''East Gully Groove'' and ''The Ring'' are a little contrived and close together in places. Their descriptions may vary from the original lines due to rationalisation.

4. '''Talons 32m E2,6a'''

A short fingery pitch up the right side of the steep smooth wall. Quite hard for the grade. Whilst originally climbed via the first pitch of ''Half Dome'', with a belay in ''East Gully Groove'', this is a bit pointless. Follow ''East Gully Groove'' to the first big hole, bridge up and lean out to a good hold on the left wall. Follow the pockets above with difficulty to finish, TRs, PRs.

5. '''The Cure 33m E3,6a *'''

Essentially a direct on ''Half Dome''. As for ''Half Dome'', but continue more directly to the break, making a couple of hard pulls to rejoin ''Half Dome'' at the thread in its top crack.

6. '''Half Dome 36m E2,5c **'''

A good route. Start just to the right of the base of the slab on the left side of the gully and pull onto it. Head up the slab, moving slightly left to the good stance on ''Babylon'' (possible belay). Move right to the crack at the end of the ledge and move up into this, TR, finishing up and slightly left.

7. '''Babylon 42m HVS,5a *'''

This takes a line right of and parallel to ''The Ring''. Start at a deep slot at the foot of ''East Gully Groove''. Climb cracks in the wall 1m right of ''The Ring'' to reach the ledge (variations possible). Climb the cracks directly above and left of the more obvious ''Half Dome'' crack (good threads - not in situ).

8. '''The Ring '''42m HS,4b **

The calcite-encrusted line rising from the foot of ''East Gully Groove''. Climb to an obvious hole and follow the calcite line to the niche, possible belay. Climb the crack/groove above to the top.

The rest of the routes start across the gully at the base of ''The Ring''. Standing about 20m left of the gully, two prominent cracks can be seen high up on the crag, about 20m apart. The right-hand one is the finish of ''Liang Shan Po'', the lefthand one is the finish of ''Middle Earth''. All these routes are as vegetated as they appear from the ground, but they are not too overgrown to climb, due to the bizarre Paviland plant-pot jugs.

9. '''Liang Shan Po 45m E1,5b *'''

Fine climbing. Start left ''The Ring''. Climb the wall anywhere via a tiny overhang at half-height, past loads of TRs. Take the overhang direct via an obvious crack on the left of the arete, PR. Finish direct.

10. '''Middle Earth 45m VS,4c *'''

Another good route up the deep central groove and crack leading through the high central overhang left of ''Liang Shan Po'', characterised by the steep and obvious jam crack. Start below the jam crack and climb the wall anywhere to gain a deep groove. Follow this to reach the jam crack. Either skirt round the crack to the left, or take it direct (HVS,5b). Follow the crack to the top.

11. '''Black Widow 45m HVS,5a'''

Start midway between ''Middle Earth'' and ''Gimli''. Climb the wall fairly directly to about mid-height then move up and right to a shaky pillar, on ''Middle Earth''. Go up left to below the roof and pull right on a good hold to the top.

12. '''Gimli 42m HVS,5a'''

This climbs the crack and groove up the right side of the high central overhang. Start in the recess containing a hole, directly below the right side of the big roof. Climb cracks to the right end of the overhangs, move steeply up the groove until below a final overhanging crack, move up left and back right to the top. Climbing direct from the top of the crack is E1,5b and pretty tricky.

13. '''Armageddon 42m HVS,5a *'''

Gain the wide crack cutting the roof about 2m to the left of the upper crack of ''Gimli''. The upper crack is hard for a few moves, before easy ground is gained. Lots of TRs.

14. '''Balrog 42m HVS,5a'''

Start below the left-hand side of the overhang. Saunter up a groove, onto an overhang and surmount this directly via a crack to gain wobbly holds and a worryingly loose finishing groove. It is possible to skirt the roof on the right, to gain a second groove and a further roof. Following this line, stepping left under the upper roof to gain the same finish is about VS.

15. ''West Arete 45m VD''

A bag situated at the far left-hand end of the face. Climb to an overlap and move right into a vague corner, then left to the skyline arete. Finish up this.

A few loose routes have been recorded left of this but are held in place by beams from outer space and are not recorded here.

16. '''Fellowship Of The Ring 39m E1,5c,5a,4c **'''

A fine high level girdle of the cliff.

;Pitch 1
:7m Follow the easy section of ''East Gully Groove'' to the base of the leftward-trending break cutting through ''Half Dome'' etc. Make a very hard move left to start, TR. Continue across the break to belay in the obvious groove line (The Ring).

;Pitch 2
:12m Step up and left from T''he Ring'', then cross the slab on good crozzles, TR. Gain the deep groove with a prominent jam crack above (''Middle Earth''). Either belay here, or on a shelf a few metres lower.

;Pitch3
:20m From the base of the prominent jam crack, swing left onto a pedestal. Continue at this level, across exposed territory, passing below a thin crack to gain a wide finishing groove.

17. '''Red Lady 48m E1,5a,5b'''

A rather indefinite rising traverse.

;Pitch 1
:25m Start as for ''Half Dome''. Climb onto the wall and make a leftward-rising ascent to the quartzy crack of ''The Ring''. Traverse left to ''Liang Shan Po'' and follow this for a short distance to the level of a small hole. Traverse left to ''Middle Earth'' and belay in the crack below an obvious niche.

;Pitch 2
:23m Move leftwards to the crack of ''Gimli'' and swing left onto the wall above the large overhang. Swing left and finish up ''Armageddon''.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==



1. ''R.Cole, P.Cole 00.00.1976''

2. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1976''

3. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1976''

4. ''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 01.01.1981''

5. J''.Talbot, C.Connick Cancer Pre-1979''

''FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 01.01.1985''

6. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 1pt 00.00.1977''

''FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 01.01.1985''

7. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

8. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1976''

9. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

10. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

11. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick - First Half 00.00.1977''
''
G.Evans, D.Hopkins - Complete Route 00.00.1987''

12. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

13. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1978''

14. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1976''

15. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

16. ''J.Talbot, C.Connick 00.00.1977''

17. ''FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1980''

Trebanog

2016-05-19T20:31:20Z

Curon Davies: Add an undocumented route

__NOTITLE__
[[Image:trebanog title.jpg|700px|thumb|right|]]

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR ST (3)01361 (1)90196

Lat: 51.601933
Lon: -3.4256101

Nearest Post Code: CF39 9YY

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

== PREAMBLE ==
A moderately good, pretty solid, low-lying crag, with a sunny aspect and many routes in the lower grades. It can occasionally be windy. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs are probably not wise for this reason. There are plenty of concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag. Due to its relatively low height and easy angle a large number of extremely trivial 'filler ins' have been claimed. As many of these as possible have been included but you will need plumb balls, some string and a ruler to climb them independently.

== ACCESS ==
Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.

== DESCENTS ==
It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

== THE ROUTES ==
===<div style="text-align: left;"> Left Hand End </div>===

''At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.''

#'''Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a''' If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m 
#'''Howell's Arete Right - HVS,5c''' A good extended boulder problem up the arete on it's right hand side. 6m 
#'''Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c''' The brushed wall to the right of the arete. 6m 
#'''Loose Stuff - VS, 4b ''' The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m 
#'''To The Left - VS, 4b''' Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Bolted Overhanging Wall </div>===
[[Image:trebanoh_1.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''One Upmanship - E1, 5c''' On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m 
#'''March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *''' The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux BR, 2PRs. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m 
#''' For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *''' The central crack line. Best to pre-clip bolt No.2 on ''March''. 12m 
#'''Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 6c+ *''' Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m 
#'''Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a''' Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m 
#'''Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c''' The unlovely corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a''' The wall to the right of the corner, swinging right past a missing PR to finish up ''Airplay''. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Area </div>===
[[Image:trebanog_main_area_and_overhang.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Air Play - VS, 4b *''' The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m 
#'''Playing Away - HVS, 5a''' The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. 12m 
#'''Bushbaby - HS, 4a''' Start at the left hand side of a hollow in the ground. Climb a line up the to the top. 12m 
#'''Skull Orchard - VS,4c''' A vague line somewhere to the right. 12m 
#'''Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m 
#'''Simon's Crack - S''' The crack to the right. 12m 
#'''S.S.R - D''' The chimney. 11m 
#'''Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m 
#'''Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *''' The overhanging crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Heatherette - VS, 5a''' The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m 
#'''Howell's Horror - D''' A nondescript line up the corner of the bay to the right, containing the prominent Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Tankard - HVS, 5a''' The crack to the right of the corner. 9m 
#'''Blagdon - VS, 4c''' The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. 11m 
[[Image:trebanog_main_flat_wall.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Flat Wall </div>===

#'''Firewater - Fr. 6b ''' The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m 
#'''Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 7a+ *''' Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. B.B. 11m 
#'''Ethanol - Fr. 6b+''' Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared B.B. 11m 
#'''Unnamed #2 - VS, 4c?''' The cracks to the right. They don't look VS (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m ''To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:'' [[Image:trebanog_cheezy_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Barlamb Abuse - D''' The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Shteep - VD''' The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m 
#'''Gambolling Groove - M''' The second groove. 11m 
#'''Vaughan - S''' The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m 
#'''Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *''' To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m 
#'''Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b''' The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m 
#'''Ledge Climb - VS''' To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, coming in from the left. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Big Black Chimney Area </div>===

#'''Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *''' Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m 
#'''Out With The Boys - VS, 4c''' Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m 
#'''Fire Down Below - E2, 5a''' Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m 
#'''Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c''' The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m 
#'''I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *''' At last a worthwhile route! The arete to the right of the chimney. 11m [[Image:trebanog_black_chimney_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''I Spy Direct E1, 5b''' The wall to the right. Hidden RPs are available behind the flake above the half height ledge. 9m 
#'''High And Dry - E1, 5a''' The crack line just right. 10m 
#'''Eastend Groove - HS, 4a''' The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m 
#'''Blood - E1, 5b''' An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m 
#'''Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *''' The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m 
#'''Eastend Crack - HS''' The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Desperate Arête - S *''' The arête to the right is very good. 9m ''To the right is another bay:'' 
#'''Decent Route - D''' The cracks in the left wall of the bay. 9m 
#'''Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b''' The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m 
#'''Unknown Corner - VD''' The right-hand corner of the wall. 9m 
#'''Jo - VS, 4c *''' In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m 
#'''Last Arête - HS, 4c *''' Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m 
#'''Penultimate - HVS, 4c''' The wall immediately right of the last arête. Bold with fragile holds. 9m 

[[Image:olli last arete.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Olli Burrows on Last Arete HS]]

===First Ascents===


Left Hand End

#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#P.Lewis 00.00.1995
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

#M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1991
#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
#J.Harwood 17.03.1990

Main Area

#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
#S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
#H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

#A.Sharp 00.00.1983
#J.Harwood 26.03.1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
#G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
#Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

#G.Lewis 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
#H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#T.Darlow 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
#Unknown
#C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
#Unknown Pre-1990
#G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002

[[Image:Last Arete.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Last Arete, Trebanog. Photo by Oli Buxton]]

Talk:Trebanog

2016-05-19T20:17:24Z

Curon Davies: Route query

== Guidebook checking ==

From Ian G:

Took the directions from the wiki, they could be improved:

If coming from the M4 take J34 and follow the A4119. At the 7th roundabout take the A4233 toward Porth/Rhondda/Trebanog.

As for the route descriptions, the ones immediately after I Spy Arete could be improved:
I Spy Direct - i think the description is OK. Soft at E1 5b.
High and Dry - I take this as being the crack/small corner system about 1 to 1.5m left of the corner. If this is the line then E1 5a is way out, more like HS 4b.
Eastend Groove - Going through the routes in logical left to right order I make this the corner crack in the bay. If this is the case then the Grade is about right.

Of the other routes that I have done there I would say the following routes (numbers only given) are about right:
12; 13; 14; 17; 18; 20; 21; 26 (bolted); 31; 34; 35; 36; 37; 41; 45; 46; 47; 48; 49; 50; 51; 52

I do also have some photos that may be good enough for topos for the areas of main interest.

: Matt, some of this info could go directly onto the wiki page. I'm thinking here of the directions. Possible best to do, as you've done, to post grade discrepancies here (Talk page) first. At the moment, this info is going onto the bulletin board - then you are moving it onto "Talk" pages - Is someone else then expected to edit the wiki page? It's all a bit of a faff! --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 22:47, 26 May 2012 (BST)

----

There was also some discussion about High and Dry, I Spy Direct and Eastend Grooves and that some of the routes are incredibly contrived.

(Matt - Tho you could say that about other parts of the crag!)

== other stuff ==

Again, I'm gonna beef up the thumbs. The blank spot on the right at the top of page should be filled I recon with a good quality shot, the others should be quite large too because of the lack of colour on the pages. -Alan

No probs, i didn't finish adding the crag. I don't intend to keep them small - just do it while i'm adding info. I planned to just add the pics next to/near the routes and I didn't get far enough to those routes :) --[[User:Steven Delaney|Del]] 09:27, 28 May 2009 (UTC)

I see--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 10:10, 28 May 2009 (UTC)

Update courtesy of Goi Ashmore --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 09:37, 12 August 2010 (BST)

Hamer’s Route 11m VS,4c
The shallow corner bounding the left-hand side of the obvious Flat Wall.
P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

Firewater 11m E1,5c Fr6a+ *
The left-hand side of the wall.
A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Hair Of The Dog 11m E4,6a Fr7a **
A very thin direct line, passing just left of the sentry box.
A.Sharp 00.00.1983

Blagdon 11m E3,5c Fr6c *
Climb the line just right of the sentry box to hit a finger rail leading left at three-fifths height. Follow this until it is possible to make a couple of moves up to the top of Hair Of The Dog.
A.Sharp 00.00.1983

Blagdon Direct 11m E4,6a Fr6c+ *
As for Blagdon, but from the finger rail, make a huge rock up to finish direct.
Simon Coles 00.00.1994

Ethanol 11m VS,4c
The cracks to the right.
J.Harwood 26.03.1990

=== Undocumented routes ===

I ''haven't been able to find any reference to a route up the corner to the right of 14. Hard Death Rain Down,Big Black Chimney Area. I'd say it's about a VDiff. It must have been an early route; any ideas? [[User:Curon Davies|Curon Davies]] ([[User talk:Curon Davies|talk]]) 21:17, 19 May 2016 (BST)