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Great Tor Proper

2017-11-05T17:39:13Z

Chris Wyatt: update after clean

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:South edge great tor.JPG|750px|thumb|right|Gary Burkhardt on ''South Edge'']]

'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
The upper tier is non-tidal. Climbs on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are accessible 1½ - 2 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Routes on the upper tier terminate at the approach col, so refer to the notes below.

Descent from routes on the '''[[Great Tor Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|lower tier]]''' are made by following the path leading to the beach from the non-tidal platform on the west side of the tor, or by scrambling back to beach level on the east.

Great Tor is the prominent headland situated east of '''[[Little Tor]]'''. Climbs on the lower tier are best accessed from Tor Bay
beach as described in the access for '''[[Little Tor]]'''.

Climbs on the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|Upper Tier]]''' are best accessed from the path running to
the headland, which reaches the second of two cols just before Great Tor proper. The eastern (left) branch is followed
to reach the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The_Col_Routes|Col routes]]''' and the start of '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#East_Ridge_Area|East Ridge]]'''. '''[[Great Tor East]]''' is also accessible from this path. The western (right) branch leads down past the Northern Upper Tier and can be followed all the way down to the beach, consequently
reaching the Lower Tier.

It is possible to scramble round the entire Tor from the base of either gully at an easy
standard, at well above high tide level.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Great Tor Upper Tier ===
The front face of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great_Tor_Upper_Tier|upper tier]]''' is heavily vegetated, and there are no routes at present. The routes that do exist are clustered around the east and west flanks. Moving down the east branch of the col, to get to ''East Ridge'', the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#The Col Routes|Col routes]]''' are visible on the landward side of the gully.

=== The Col Routes ===
At the top of the inland side of the east descent gully from the neck of the tor, lie a series of grooves and ribs. Although
these appear vegetated, the routes are clean and are on good juggy rock.

[[Image:Jayne-great_tor.jpg|thumb|450px|Jayne on ''Shag - VDiff'']]
1. '''Shag''' 15m VD

Climb the left most arete on jugs after a tricky start.

''D.Irving, C.Shorrock 00.00.1999''

2. '''Kestrel''' 15m S

The narrow wall between Shag and the cave leads to a bulge. Either skirt this on the left before returning to the corner, or climb the corner direct at the same grade.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

3. '''Cormorant''' 18m VD

The groove right of the cave contains an arete. Climb this with occasional help from the left edge of the groove.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

4. '''Magpie''' 21m S *

The groove to the right of ''Comorant'', containing two bulges.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

5. '''Chough''' 21m VD

he bulbous arete and grooved arete above and to the right of ''Magpie''.

''D.Irving 00.00.1999''

6. '''Wandl''' 12m HS,4c

Up and right a steep crack leaves a grassy bay. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

7. '''Cratered wall arrete''' 9m VS, 5a

To the right of the previous routes there is a large cave which is worth exploring. The compact steep little wall to the right of this contains interesting craters. This route takes the left arrete

''C. Wyatt 19.05.11''

===East Ridge Area===
At the base of the east gully is a non tidal platform. Scramble round southward (out to sea and above the high tide level) to a good ledge, just before the east arete proper. Here is a prominent clean finger crack, marking the start of
''East Ridge''.

7. '''Ginger Groover''' 18m VD

Follow the vague grooves just right of the arete and 2m left of East Ridge, via two bulges. Amble off or continue as for ''East Ridge''.

''B.Merrifield 00.00.1998''

8. '''East Ridge''' 73m S,-,-,-,- ***

Excellent positions, splendid climbing and good gear, weaving around the East Ridge of the Tor. Pitches 3 and 4 are usually run together.
#18m Climb the crack in the wall and either step right, or follow the groove above to exit at a wide ledge.
#18m From the west end of the terrace climb a groove in the seaward face of the ridge before continuing up the arete to a stance by a flake.
#13m Follow the splendidly exposed arete to a grassy stance.
#24m Wander up the rest of the arete and the slabs above to belay on the summit, with superb views.

'' A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

9. '''East Ridge Variations''' 73m HS,4b,4b ***

Good variations on the first two pitches of the parent route. Start 2m right of ''East Ridge'' beneath twin cracks.
#17m Follow the twin cracks steeply to an easing before a wide ledge.
#17m The crack in the centre of the back wall leads initially via polished holds to the ridge and the tradtional finish of ''East Ridge''.

''Unknown Pre-1970''

=== Westwards from the Col ===
Further left, the shelves lead to the ledge at the top of the Great Flake area of the '''[[Great_Tor_Proper#Great Tor Lower Tier|Lower Tier]]'''.

There is a north-facing leaning wall about 50m down the banking.

10. '''Scrambled slab''' 12m VS 4b

Take the slab on left of ''Southern Freeze'' and ''Gower Kut'' on its left hand side. Distinct paucity of protection and gets serious. Alternatively use side runners! This pitch is surprisingly worthwhile.

''C. Wyatt solo 18.05.2011''

11. '''Gower Kut''' 18m E6,6b

Pain! The thin cracks in the pillar of rock, PRs.

''J.Talbot, D. Thomas - North Face A1 00.00.1959, FFA G.Ashmore 31.05.1998''

12. '''Southern Freeze''' 18m E1,5b

The cracks right of ''Gower Kut'' starting from a grassy scoop. Good to start, but deteriorates after the ledge.

''J.Harwood, A.Sharp 24.01.1980''

13. '''Mistral''' 25m E4,6a **

Amenable for the grade. Start as for Southern Freeze. Balance up the groove in the arete and reach a sloping ledge at 4m. Step right onto the arete PR and climb it with technical moves, PR, to bigger holds slightly right. Pull onto the capping slab and walk off onto the summit.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 21.03.1999''

The next route starts at a much lower level, at the base of a slab.

14. '''North Corner''' 39m HVS,5a

The stepped corner. Climb the quartz-flecked slab until it is possible to move left to the foot of the corner. Finish up the final slab. The route is vegetated and the grade may no longer be accurate.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

The next two routes are on the narrow west facing edge of the Tor, seaward from North Corner and facing back
towards Little Tor.

14. '''Direct''' 42m E1,5a

Start below the narrow west face at an easy-angled calcite-flecked slab some way up the beach. Follow a direct line up the centre of the west face with poor protection.

''R.Owen, C.Andrews 00.00.1959''

15. '''South Edge''' 42m HS,4a

Start as for Direct. Climb the right edge of the slab to its top. The rock needs care in the upper reaches.

J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959

===Great Tor Lower Tier===
[[Image:Great tor west overview.jpg|center|800px|thumb|[[#Great Tor Lower Tier|Great Tor Lower Tier]]]]
Routes on the lower tier are described from west to east (left to right facing inland), as approached from Tor Beach.

The first area of rock encountered is a small twin slab lying midway along the west side of the headland. The left twin
is lower, the right twin contains a deep crack running to three-quarters height.

There is a 4m boulder problem up the left-hand slab (''Bulge, 4b, C.Andrews 1959'').

[[Image:Two cracks area-2.jpg|thumb|right|700px|Two Cracks Area]]
1. '''Two Cracks''' 7m HS,4b

Follow the crack stepping right into a second where it ends.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

2. '''Piton Climb''' 7m VS,5a

Climb the wall just right of ''Two Cracks''. Step left into the crack at its top and move up and left to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

A little to the right of ''Piton Climb'' is a sheer south-facing slab.

3. '''Dimpletown''' 10m E3,6a *

A little gem. From the lowest part of the slab climb direct on small holds. A Bristol blade PR at half-height protects.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

The wall now turns to face west. The prominent features of the wall are a left-slanting crack with a narrow black
corner 5m to the right and a sharp arete 5m right again. Beyond this is an obvious chimney (West Chimney).

4. '''Only The Hardy''' 10m E1,5a

Climb the wall and shallow groove 2m left of a prominent left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

5. '''The Grunting Professor''' 9m E1,5c

The left-slanting crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

[[Image:Great tor lower tier west wall.jpg|thumb|700px|right|'''Great Tor Lower Tier''' - West Wall]]
6. '''Blow Monica''' 9m E1,5c

Start 2m left of the crack leading into the narrow black corner. Work up to a brown flake groove and take pockets to the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

7. '''The Cramps In The Cold''' 10m E2,5c

Good climbing. Follow good, widely spaced holds 2m left of the arete of the black corner, finishing immediately left of a wide crystalline crack.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

8. '''Mighty Mouse''' 10m HVS,5b

Start to the right, about 2m left of the black corner of ''Third Time Lucky''. Climb the wall direct via a thin crack and shallow groove to the top.

''J.Harwood, M.Ismail 01.05.1999''

9. '''Third Time Lucky''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the narrow black corner.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

10. '''The Ramp With No Holds''' 10m E3,6a

Gain and climb the shallow ramp right of the narrow black corner to a jug. Finish direct past the stuck on jug.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 23.03.1999''

11. '''Term Of Office''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the crack on the left side of the arete to the right.

''T.Hulff, L.Ashton 00.00.1999''

[[Image:Great tor south walls.jpg|thumb|rigt|700px|South Walls]]
Moving seaward from the cracked slab is a series of steep low walls, terminating in an obvious arete, beyond which
lies an obvious chimney.

12. '''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's''' 12m VS,4b

Reach the arete from a ledge on its right and climb it.

''L.Ashton, J.Robinson 00.00.1999''

13. '''South Wall''' HVS,5a

The thin crack in the wall between ''Another Quiet Night At Adrian's'' and ''West Chimney''.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

14. '''West Chimney''' 15m S,4b *

The obvious chimney is highly intriguing.

''D.Jones, R.Owen 1954/55''

15. '''Training For Ogmore''' 14m E1,5a

The centre of the wall to the right of ''West Chimney'' Cleaned in 2017 to make a good quality route.

''J.Brown, E.Mair-Thomas 00.00.1996''''

16. '''Love Bump''' 10m HS 4a

The arête between ''Training for Ogmore'' and ''South Crack''.

''Nick Taylor, o/s solo 26.5.09''

17. '''South Crack''' 10m S

The seaward-facing slab just right of ''Training For Ogmore'' is climbed by a crack and delicate finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The lower tier now turns to face south at the line of ''Left Edge''.

18. '''Broken Wall'''12m D

Takes the centre of the narrow stepped wall left of ''Left Edge''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

[[Image:Great tor west.jpg|thumb|700px|right]]
19. '''Left Edge''' 18m S

This follows the left edge of the bubbly wall. Start at the left end of a small ledge, climb the crack to a shallow groove in the arete. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

20. '''Bubbly Wall''' 18m VS,4b *

Start as for ''West Corner'' but step left onto the wall and follow a thin crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1960''

21. '''West Corner''' 12m D

Climbs the corner behind the left edge of the '''Great Flake''' (the area of rock shielding this wall from the sea).

''A.Osborn, S.Osborn 00.00.1952''

22. '''Barnacle''' 13m VS,4c

Start 3m right of ''West Corner'' below a distinct hole in the rock. Climb past the hole and continue to a good ledge. Finish up the yellow wall above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

23. '''Preuss Crack''' 13m HS,4b *

Start at a distinct short crack in the lower wall, 3m right of ''Barnacle''. From the end of the crack, bear left, climbing a conglomerate crack above to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Curving Corner''' 13m VS,4c

A bold route that climbs a crack beneath the left end of an obvious ledge. Follow the thin crack above the left end of the ledge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

25. '''Direct II''' 18m HVS,4c

From the ledge of ''Curving Corner'', climb the thin wall directly. Bold.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Right Curving Corner''' 21m S,4c

As for ''Curving Corner'' to the ledge, traverse right to below a corner and follow it to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Brown Slab''' 21m VD

This takes the wall right of the corner of ''Right Curving Corner'' on big holds, after a difficult start.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''Holey Wall''' 24m VD

Gain and climb the short crack right of Brown Slab.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

Next is a slightly recessed wall containing a crack on its right (''Right Corner'').

29. '''Left Corner''' 15m VD

Start as for Right Corner but exit the crack immediately, moving left and up to finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1958''

30. '''Direct I''' 15m HS,4b

The slab between the Corner Routes.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

31. '''Right Corner''' 15m D

Climb the crack following it rightwards to the top via a corner.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

32. '''Block Wall''' 16m VD

Begin as for ''Right Corner'', then traverse right above the pool to finish direct on good holds.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Central Crack I''' 16m D *

Start at the right side of the pool and climb a crack to the top.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Crack I''' 16m VD

Start at the smaller block, then climb a wide crack, which narrows to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

35. '''Right Side''' 6m D

Start at the top of the largest block, to climb delicately and directly to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The last climbing in the south frontal section, to the right (east) of the other climbs is on a recessed yellow face,
crossed by two right to left rising ramps.

36. '''Left Pillar''' 10m HS

Climb the left pillar directly, passing the ramp en route.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

37. '''Central Crack II''' 12m S

The crack above the centre of the lower ramp.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

38. '''Right Pillar''' 12m HVS,5a

The steep slab right again, bold.

''Traditional 00.00.0000''

To the right lie two cracks, both start from the right end of the lower ramp.

39. '''Left Crack I''' 10m VD

The thinner left-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

40. '''Right Crack II''' 10m D

The ledgey corner and wider right-hand crack.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

41. '''Cracked Up''' 10m VD

Climb the first weakness in the upper ramp. Step left to a crack, then climb the curving crack above the ledge.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

42. '''Cracked It''' 8m D

From the first weakness of Cracked Up, take the wider crack passing ledges en route.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

43. '''Central Route''' 8m S

A disjointed crack, often filled with barnacles, splits the centre of the wall right again.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

44. '''Left Crack II''' 6m D

The left slanting cracks just before the end of the seaward face.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

==Additional Photos==
<gallery>
File:East ridge early evening.jpg|East Ridge, Great Tor at dusk.
File:Gary-b and tim-b bottom s.edge great-tor.jpg|Gary B. and Tim B. at the bottom of ''South Edge'', [[Great Tor]].
File:Pitch2 east ridge great-tor.jpg|Pitch 2 East Ridge, [[Great Tor]].
File:Tim cowx on two cracks gt tor lower tier.jpg|Tim Cowx on ''Two Cracks''.
</gallery>

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2017-09-23T22:44:19Z

Chris Wyatt: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade]]
'''[[:Category:Gower|Gower]]'''

'''[[:Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade|Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''
[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m HS,4a

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang. Some loose rock.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre left variant''' 35m E1 5b

Take South west diedre to a point about 3m below the break. Move up diagonally leftwards to s small ledge in a corner. Climb a groove then make a difficult move into a small hanging groove . Climb this until it eases with a flake line to to the top.

30. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

31. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

32. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

33. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

34. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

35. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

36. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

37. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

38. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

39. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

40. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

41. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

===Twin Buttresses===
[[File:What took you so long.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Gwyn Evans at [[#Twin Buttresses|Twin Buttresses Right]]]]'''
At the head of the grassy gully above Giant’s Cave and just below the clifftop path is a pair of buttresses separated by a narrow grassy gully. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and not as vegetated as might be expected.

#'''What Took You So Long?''' - Severe Start in a triangular niche about 4m down to the right of the separating gully. Climb the rib on the right of the niche and continue in a fairly straight line to the top with a steep little rib just before the finish. 12 m. 

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

'''Lewes Castle West'''



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



'''Lewes Castle East'''



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. "C Wyatt 23.09.2017"

30. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

31. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

32. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

33. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

34. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

35. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

36. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

37. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

38. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

39. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

40. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''41. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''





'''Twin Buttresses'''
#''G. Evans, M. Jenner'' 24.05.2017





'''The Pan'''

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2017-09-23T22:42:10Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Lewes Castle East */

[[Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade]]
'''[[:Category:Gower|Gower]]'''

'''[[:Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade|Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''
[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m HS,4a

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang. Some loose rock.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. '''South West Diedre left variant''' 35m E1 5b

Take South west diedre to a point about 3m below the break. Move up diagonally leftwards to s small ledge in a corner. Climb a groove then make a difficult move into a small hanging groove . Climb this until it eases with a flake line to to the top.

30. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

31. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

32. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

33. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

34. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

35. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

36. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

37. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

38. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

39. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

40. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

41. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

===Twin Buttresses===
[[File:What took you so long.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Gwyn Evans at [[#Twin Buttresses|Twin Buttresses Right]]]]'''
At the head of the grassy gully above Giant’s Cave and just below the clifftop path is a pair of buttresses separated by a narrow grassy gully. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and not as vegetated as might be expected.

#'''What Took You So Long?''' - Severe Start in a triangular niche about 4m down to the right of the separating gully. Climb the rib on the right of the niche and continue in a fairly straight line to the top with a steep little rib just before the finish. 12 m. 

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

'''Lewes Castle West'''



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



'''Lewes Castle East'''



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''





'''Twin Buttresses'''
#''G. Evans, M. Jenner'' 24.05.2017





'''The Pan'''

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2017-09-23T22:40:47Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Lewes Castle East */

[[Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade]]
'''[[:Category:Gower|Gower]]'''

'''[[:Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade|Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''
[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m HS,4a

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang. Some loose rock.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. ""South west diedre left variant"" 35m E1 5b

Take South west diedre to a point about 3m below the break. Move up diagonally leftwards to s small ledge in a corner. Climb a groove then make a difficult move into a small hanging groove . Climb this until it eases with a flake line to to the top.

30. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

31. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

32. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

33. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

34. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

35. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

36. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

37. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

38. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

39. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

40. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

41. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

===Twin Buttresses===
[[File:What took you so long.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Gwyn Evans at [[#Twin Buttresses|Twin Buttresses Right]]]]'''
At the head of the grassy gully above Giant’s Cave and just below the clifftop path is a pair of buttresses separated by a narrow grassy gully. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and not as vegetated as might be expected.

#'''What Took You So Long?''' - Severe Start in a triangular niche about 4m down to the right of the separating gully. Climb the rib on the right of the niche and continue in a fairly straight line to the top with a steep little rib just before the finish. 12 m. 

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

'''Lewes Castle West'''



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



'''Lewes Castle East'''



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''





'''Twin Buttresses'''
#''G. Evans, M. Jenner'' 24.05.2017





'''The Pan'''

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress)

2017-09-23T22:39:44Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Lewes Castle East */

[[Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade]]
'''[[:Category:Gower|Gower]]'''

'''[[:Category:Fall Bay to Mewslade|Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''
[[Image:Lewes Castle (Fall Bay Buttress).jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle]]

[[Image:Lewes castle west topo.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Lewes Castle West topo]]

'''GR SS 414 872'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Non-Tidal.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Either left (normally better) or right from the raised ground at the top, via well worn paths.

== THE ROUTES ==

=== Lewes Castle West ===
This is the upper buttress overlooking Fall Bay and is justifiably popular. It provides excellent climbing, mostly at the VS and HVS, grades. It is non-tidal and the approach is via the path contouring round below the iron ladder on the Fall Bay approach, which leads to the Great Terrace. Towards the seaward (south) end is a prominent left-slanting groove leading up to the overhangs at their widest point (''Osiris''). Back left is a prominent vertical corner crack (''Isis'').

1. '''Fall Bay Girdle '''85m HVS,5a,4c,4b **

An excellent traverse line under the roofs. Omitting P1 makes the route VS.

#24m Climb ''Ket'' to the break.
#31m Traverse right via some awkward moves to gain the arete left of ''Isis''. Cross the groove of ''Isis'' and belay in the cave where ''Isis'' crosses the overhang.
#30m Traverse right until clear of the overhangs, then easily up to the top.

The first prominent feature of the crag is a short corner above two holes halfway along the path (''Ket'').

2. '''Bucket '''36m HVS,5b

Take the crack in the wall 2m left of the short corner. Climb past the crack, PR, to a ledge, go right to a corner (''Ket''), then carry on up the crack in the headwall.

3. '''Ket '''36m HVS,5a

Climb the short corner and then a subsequent shallow corner slightly left to a cave at two-thirds height. Finish up a broken groove on the left, taking care not to dislodge the monster block.

4. '''Mandrake '''36m HVS,5b

As for ''Ket'', but finish directly up the crack rather than the broken groove.

5. '''Eclipse '''36m E1,5c

Take the crack in the wall 2m to the right of the start of ''Ket''. Climb the continuation wall steeply, PR, to gain a crack and follow his past overlaps above. Cross the overhang at twin cracks.

6. '''Seket '''36m E1,5b

Start 1m right of ''Eclipse'' at the foot of a groove, below a small triangular overhang at half-height, 4m left of the obvious corner crack of ''Isis''. Climb a groove and slab to an overhang, over this past golos and climb a crack in the wall to the right. Follow broken grooves directly to the top.

7. '''Monkey See And Monkey Do '''36m E4,6a *

Start to the right of ''Seket'' below a faint groove with a PR at 5m. Climb this groove via a bold pull over an overlap (crucial Friend 4). From the top of the groove, move up to a pancake, clip an inverted PR to the right, then pull through the overlap at a TR. Wander up and right to finish.

8. '''Reptiles And Samurai '''36m E4,6a *

An excellent and direct line with some blind climbing. The gear is good, even at the start, given the patience to place it. Start right of ''Monkey See And Monkey Do''. Climb straight up a white wall, good RPs. Pull over a bulge to a short groove. From the sloping shelf above, pull up direct or slightly right, lots of PRs. Overcome the roof, crux, poor PR, but good rock 3 in the lip. Continue up the short groove to a break. Move left to finish up the broken groove above.

9. '''Welsh Witch '''36m E3,6a

Climb the slabby groove immediately right of ''Reptiles And Samurai'' to the base of a slim square-cut groove right of Reptiles and just left of the main corner of ''Isis''. Climb this easily, to gain a ledge, PR and some poor rock. Climb the crack to the right to gain the top of the Isis groove. Place a thread and finish direct.

10. '''Isis '''36m HVS,5a ***

Classic. Start below the obvious corner crack in the centre of the cliff. Climb a steep wall to gain the main corner crack, which is followed to the main overhangs. Traverse rightwards to a cave (possible belay), move right and climb the overhang at its narrowest point, then trend left to the top. A cheesy right-hand start is available up the left-hand of the cracks to the right.

11. '''Horus '''36m HVS,5a *

Start just right of ''Isis'' below two diverging cracks. Climb the right one, PR, to below a bulge. Step left to a small pinnacle and climb to a break. Cross the overhang as for Isis and finish direct.

12. '''Rhea '''36m HVS,5a **

Start below a short dark slab, 5m right of Isis, with a rightward-slanting groove/crack above. Climb to a recess and then the groove, PR. Move right onto a rib, follow this and the adjacent groove to a break. Pull through the overhang at the v-groove just left of its widest point.

13. '''Lazy Sunday Afternoon '''36m E2,5b **

A poor and contrived start (past the old bolt holes on route) leads to the brilliant finish. It is much more sensible to gain the finish via ''Seth'' or ''Osiris''. Start at the foot of a short steep wall midway between the starts of ''Rhea'' and ''Osiris'', beneath the widest part of the overhangs above. Climb the wall and the rib above to belay on ''Osiris''. Continue over the roof at its widest point, TR, PR and climb steeply up the wall above.

14. '''Frantic Sunday Morning '''36m E2,5c

As for ''Seth'', then step left and finish over the roof to the right of ''Lazy Sunday Afternooon''. Contrived.

15. '''Osiris '''36m VS,4c ***

Splendid. Start at the prominent leftward-slanting groove system towards the right-hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point (possible belay), PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and so gain the top.

16. '''Seth '''36m E1,5c **

A good route, with a very tricky crux. Climb the lower groove of ''Osiris'' for 5m, then a steep crack in the right wall to a break. Finish as for ''Osiris'', or move left for a three star outing by finishing up ''Lazy Sunday Afternoon ''and an E2 tick.

17. '''Horsis '''36m HVS,5a *

Climb the lower part of the Osiris groove, then move diagonally right to another groove. Follow the left-hand cracks past a large block to the overhangs. Finish up the easy groove just right of the overhangs.

18. '''Ra '''36m HVS,5a

Start to the right of the grooves of ''Osiris''. Climb the wall to a groove/corner high on the face and swing left onto a rib near the top. Combines the better climbing of Nieblung (J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973) and Father Christmas.

19. '''Fallout '''36m VS,4b

Only for people who like this sort of thing ... It's loose! Start at the lowest point of the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top. Some people head right for the pegs of 'South East Diedre' to escape.

20. '''South East Diedre '''36m HVS,5a

Start right of the base of the buttress, below an obvious south-east facing corner. Climb the corner until a bulge forces a move leftwards onto a pinnacle. From this gain and climb the final overhung corner past two pegs to the top.

21. '''Continuity Corner '''36m HVS,5a

The vague groove system 10m right of ''South East Diedre''

22. '''Gstelli '''15m S

The gully dividing Lewes Castle West and East.

===Lewes Castle East===
To the east and separated from Fall Bay Buttress by Gstelli, is another large buttress overlooking the Great Terrace. It has a cave at half-height and an obvious wide crack up on the right. The first route takes the wall right of the gully.

23. '''Gethsemane '''31m S,4a **

Start below the right wall of the gully at a short wall with an open groove above. Tiptoe rightwards across the wall to gain a ledge at the foot of the groove, follow it to a large ledge and move out right onto a rib which is followed to the top.

24. '''Eden '''31m HS,4a

Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang. Some loose rock.

25. '''The Bottle '''31m VS,4b *

Start below the cave. Climb a crack and easy groove to the cave, move out left onto a pedestal and follow the steep crack above to the top. A harder, more direct start gains the steep crack directly via an obvious groove/ corner (HVS,5b).

26. '''Cave Cracks '''31m E2,4b,5c

#12m As for The Bottle to the cave.
#18m Climb to the roof, then swing in from the left to gain poor jams. Finish steeply up the obvious cracks.

27. '''Cave Cracks Direct '''31m E3,5c *

Gain the jams above the lip from directly below.

28. '''Age Before Beauty '''31m E1,5a

This takes the wall right of ''The Bottle'' and left of ''South West Diedre''. Start at a small cave 3m right of the start of ''The Bottle''. Climb flakes rightward and move left into a shallow groove. Follow this and a shallow chimney to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack, avoiding easier ground to the left.

29. "South west diedre left variant" 35m E1 5b

Take South west diedre to a point about 3m below the break. Move up diagonally leftwards to s small ledge in a corner. Climb a groove then make a difficult move into a small hanging groove . Climb this until it eases with a flake line to to the top.

30. '''South West Diedre '''33m HVS,5a **

Start 5m right of ''The Bottle''. Climb a corner and groove to a ledge, step back left and up to a small overhang at three-quarters height. Go over this and finish up the steep crack above.

31. '''South West Diedre Variant '''33m VS,4c *

From the ledge below the overhang of the parent route, follow the corner crack to the right instead.

32. '''Instigator '''33m HVS,5a

Start at a vertical crack 3m right of ''South West Diedre''. Climb the crack to a definite widening, bridge up and then climb a groove by its right wall to the recess below the corner crack. Step onto the rib or, better, follow a diagonal line across the upper smooth wall.

The old route ''South East Pillar'' (HVS,5a C.Bonnington, J.Cleare 1964) has fallen down.

33. '''The Revolution's Here '''36m E4,6a *

Climb the grooved rib right of ''Instigator'' to join that route at 25m. Follow flakes up the headwall to the top.

34. '''Combination '''45m VS,4b

Start just left of the front of the buttress. Climb a blocky groove to the upper wall, hand traverse the curving crack below the upper wall leftwards and continue round the arete to a recess below a corner crack. Finish up this.

35. '''South East Arete '''36m E3,5c *

Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of ''Combination'' into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.

36. '''Rhydd '''36m HVS,4c

Start just right of the pillar right of ''Combination''. Climb the corner crack in its entirety past a hole near the top.

37. '''Rash Prediction '''36m E2,5b

Takes a direct line up to the small open corner at two-thirds height, 3m right of ''Rhydd''. Care is needed at the top due to loose rock. Start below the corner and move up to a small bulge. Climb over this and up to the corner. Continue above until survival demands moving rightwards near the top.

38. '''Every One's A Coconut '''36m E2,5b

Start 1m right of ''Rash Prediction'', climb the face carefully to a vertical crack line. Follow the crack and flake above a bulge, then pull up a slight corner to the good horizontal break. Fix gear then walk right to the terrace to escape the terminal moraine above.

39. '''Twilight '''36m E1,5a

Start 3m to the right of ''Every One's A Coconut''. Follow grooves and corners direct to the top.

Right of ''Twilight'' the crag becomes very broken. However at the far right, the upper portion of the cliff becomes more

solid and provides a small buttress.

40. '''Till Rock Doth Us Part '''12m E4,5c *

Start 1m right of the groove with a crack on its left wall that bounds the impending buttress on its left. Climb straight up via various thin cracks, move left beneath a vague rib, finishing up a thin crack to good holds.

41. '''Gerontology '''58m VS,4b,4b,4b

A right to left girdle. Start as for ''Combination''.

#28m Follow Combination to the recess below the upper wall. Traverse left along the horizontal crack to belay below the wide corner crack.
#15m Step down leftwards into a groove (''South West Diedre'') then traverse left to the cave of ''The Bottle''.
#15m Move left to a pedestal, step down and continue traversing across two grooves to ledges on ''Gethsemane.''

Finish up this.

===Twin Buttresses===
[[File:What took you so long.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Gwyn Evans at [[#Twin Buttresses|Twin Buttresses Right]]]]'''
At the head of the grassy gully above Giant’s Cave and just below the clifftop path is a pair of buttresses separated by a narrow grassy gully. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and not as vegetated as might be expected.

#'''What Took You So Long?''' - Severe Start in a triangular niche about 4m down to the right of the separating gully. Climb the rib on the right of the niche and continue in a fairly straight line to the top with a steep little rib just before the finish. 12 m. 

=== The Pan ===
Down to the right of [[Lewes Castle]] is a recessed area of conglomerate, set above a hole. This is The Pan.

1. '''JT Where Is He? '''8m HVS,5a

The shallow groove above the left end of a rightward-rising flake above The Pan.

2. '''Down The Pan '''9m VS,4c

The flake going rightward over The Pan.

3. '''That Cistern Feeling '''10m E3,6a

Reachy. Use the two big blocks on the conglomerate on the right and swing left onto a flake overhanging The Pan. Pull straight up the leaning brown wall to jugs and a bridge over the zawn. Finish up the easier face above.

=== FIRST ASCENTS ===

'''Lewes Castle West'''



1. ''R.Griffiths, M.Hogge 00.00.1967''

2. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

3. ''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''

4. ''P.Christie, R.Evans, G.Morris 00.00.1986''

5. ''R.Wadey, M.Murray 00.09.1997''

6. ''E.Pardoe, A.March 00.00.1968''

7. ''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.02.2002''

8. ''M.Crocker, M.Ward 28.06.1987''

9. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

10. ''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe AL 00.02.1967''

11. P.Hinder, J.Talbot 00.00.1975

12. ''R.Leigh, T.Smith 00.00.1967''

13. ''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1989 G.Lewis, S.Mundy - Final Roof 00.00.1982''

14. ''B. Heason, M.Heason 00.10.1997''

15. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths AL 00.02.1967''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

17. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968''

18. ''(J.Talbot, P.Hinder 1973). G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

19. ''J.Birch, J.Geeson 00.00.1967''

20. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1973''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''



'''Lewes Castle East'''



23. ''SWMC 00.00.1966''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1971''

25. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1974''

26. ''P.Littlejohn, A.Davies 18.03.1980''

27. ''A.Sharp, D.Morris, P.Lewis 24.03.2002''

28. ''G.Evans, P.Christie 00.00.1988''

29. ''SUMC 00.00.1967''

30. ''J.Kerry, C.Ryan 00.00.1968''

31. ''J.Kerry, M.Hogge 00.00.1969''

32. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

33. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1973''

34. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

35. ''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1968, G.Evans, K.Moran ALCH 00.00.1985''

36. ''C.Ryan, P.Greenwood 00.00.1970''

37. ''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 24.04.1999''

38. ''J.Talbot, P.Hinder 00.00.1972''

39. ''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990, M.Crocker Direct 24.04.1999''

''40. A.Beaton, M.Danford, G.Richardson 31.08.1986''





'''Twin Buttresses'''
#''G. Evans, M. Jenner'' 24.05.2017





'''The Pan'''

1. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

2. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

3. ''M.Crocker solo 24.04.1999''

Sewerpipe

2017-04-23T21:21:49Z

Chris Wyatt:

[[Category:Gower Bouldering]]
[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The entire sewerpipe area is above water 2.5 hours either side of low tide. However at neap high tides it is possible to do the problems on the back walls

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Sewerpipe Area'''

{|
!width="500"| [[Image:TheLion.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Lion]]
|<poem>Take the narrow path down the sewerpipe
Just let pedestrians shake their heads
they do not know the way to heaven!
Wave wound pebbles grind
the lion's foot,
he watches december's sun
arc the ocean sky
I touch the rock strangely warmed
hook, pull, crimp,
a microclimate warms my soul
</poem>

This place is probably the most relaxed of the Gower bouldering areas. There are a great number of easier problems and one or two hard ones.

At high tide in summer, swimming is a viable alternative to bouldering and it is great fun jumping in from the top of the lion. The lions den is submerged but it is possible to swim through taking advantage of the mid way air pocket. This is also an ideal venue for bouldering with dogs and/or children as the various walls keep things fairly managable. There is much exploring to be done.

The area lies 200m east of Rotherslade bay.

For those who like ticking UKC logbooks the problems can be found in 'Limeslade Crag'

|}

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to Rotherslade and take the coastal path East. After a couple of hundred yards a path right leads to an earth canyon containing an old Sewerpipe - Follow this to the sea and tun left. An alternative approach is to boulder hop from the beach.

Warning : Do not be distracted by the delights of the cafe - you can visit that later.

== MAP OF AREA ==
[[Image:Map3c.png]]

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The Minging Cave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:sewerpipeMinging.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Minging Cave]]
| On arrival at the site the first thing you will see is the minging cave. Although this is usually wet, most of the holds are positive and the problems are actually quite good.Now fairly solid after plenty of traffic

1. Easy jug pulling on steep ground

2.Harder jug pulling (or use the sloper) further right

3. Sit start on the arrete , move left via an undercut pocket - powerful

4. Layback the holds on the arrete all the way to the top

5. The easier layback groove

6. ''Safer Surfing'' V2 * . Depending on level of pebbles sit/crouch start using in a large wet hole at the back of the cave. A good move gets you established on a sloper further out from where various powerful crimps lead to the top.

7. The long higher traverse line.

8-9. There are various ways through the big overhang

10. Start in a subsidiary cave on the right. A rising traverse leftwards .

11. ''The canine chalk bag heist'' V4 *. Start on a low boss well out left of the main cave, traverse right along an obvious break to an awkward rest position. Launch round the first arete to reach the start holds of the layback groove. From here launch out rightwards via a painful pocket to slopers and a very steep sequence to good holds in the back of the arch. Continue rightwards to finish at the right hand end of the crag. Benefits from a dry spell.
|}

'''Darth Vader Area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:SewerpipeDarth.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Darth Vader]]
| Follow the wall down from the cave. This is the scooped area of smooth stone and the overhang to its left

1. Straight up through the overhang to the left of the arrete on pockets. The top out is not typical (ie jugless)

2. Darth Vader V3: Start with your left hand in a smallish pocket in the break, smear the smooth rock and launch to a crimpy pocket/crack up right. From this tenuous position smoothly reach up for the high break and move up slightly rightwards to the top. A very good problem which should soon be barnacle free if enough people have a go!

3. Find a way up the smooth teflon slab. Better for the flexible

|}

'''The Elephant'''
{|
!width="350"| [[Image:Elephant2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Elephant]]
|There are rumours that this is a cousin of the more famous one last seen in Fontainebleau.

1. Start round the back then up a meter or so, traverse right round the front and up to a highball finish

|}

'''Two Arretes'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Twoarretes.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Two arretes]]
| 1. ''Smooth Arrete'' V2 : a slopey body tension smeary type thing - most unlike limestone

2 The left arrete - traverse in from the left and up the arrete. A harder sit start direct variant is also possible at V3
|}

'''Flake Wall'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:FlakeWall.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Flake Wall]]

|This is generally a good warm up area but 'Flakey Pastry is worth doing in its own right

1. Up the left hand side then along the flake to its peak. Top out

2. The Wall to the right becomes generally less well featured but there is a prominent right facing spike/side pull 3 feet below the top of the flake. Use this to get to the top.

3. ''Flakey Pastry'' V3 *: Gain a less than positive left facing side pull a foot to the right of the key hold mentioned in the previous route. From here tend rightwards to the top of the flake. An interesting sequence.

4. The very obvious flake line from the right.

5. To the right of the flake you can do a short problem straight up the wall
|}

'''The Canyon'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Canyon1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Canyon]]
|The climbing is on the right wall of the Canyon (facing in). Starting on the right

1) Up the Right hand wall

2) Straight up and over the bulge from sit/crouch start jug

3) Leftwards rising traverse under overhang - some long reaches

4) ''Si's traverse '' V3: a left to right low traverse. This finishes up Pac Man's Face .

5)''Leg up for shorty'' V2 : One or two move wonder but daft positions make it fun. Starts on the seaward face of the left side of the canyon. Left heelhook on the LHS shelf, hands in the vertical slots in the middle. Somehow pullup (using intermediate sloper if you wish) and gain the large RHS sloper. Pull up using a sidepull on the LHS and gain the ramp.

There are numerous variations
|}

'''Pac Man'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:SewerPipePacMan.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Pac Man]]
|5) Start on low jugs then a couple of big swings up right to the top

6) Sit or crouch with your right hand on the end of the lower protrusion (pack man's lower lip) and with feet in the slot. Work up via a hard heel hook and RH slap in the crack to gain a standing position on the lip. Finish easily

7) (Not shown) Work into the overhang from the right (about V1)
|}

'''The bat Cave'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Louisarmstrong1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Back Cave]]
|Very Steep climbing. The rock high on route 1 has some rickety holds but is generally much better than it looks! The ground level varies quite a lot in these parts

1. '''Once is enough''' (V5) Sit Start as for Louis Armstrong but attack the overhanging cave directly using powerful side pulls. Move right towards the top avoiding breaking your head on the rock below if possible. The 'safe' variations goes left at mid height to join Louis Armstrong

2. '''Louis Armstong''' * (V3)
Start at the back, traverse leftwards on the steep wall via an obvious sloper. Make a long reach horizontally leftwards to a side pull. From here negotiate your way to a left facing layback position on good holds further left. Pull vertically upwards to a letterbox and up and right again to a reasonable hold on top of a hanging block. Holds improve while the rock gets more worrying for a few moves to the top. Variations possible - the best of which at v4/v5 is the direct version. Dont use the large sloper and go straight up to the hanging block via a powerful pinch.

3. (V3) This shares the start with Louis armstrong but carry on traversing instead of going upwards to the letterbox. The ground eases so you can make your way to the top

4. (V4/5) Low sit start by Louis Armstrong. Take the lower traverse line to more amenable ground

5. If the pebbles are down, a sit start with a couple of hard pulls leads to more amenable climbing to the top.
|}

'''The Python'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Python.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Python]]
|This feature makes for a bit of fun

1. Sit start on the left of the python and hook either side. Shimmy up to the face on the right and exit on sharp crimps
|}

'''The Lion'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Lion3.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Lion's ]]
|This wonderful feature dominates the area.

1. ''Lions Face V2'' The left wall avoiding either arrete

2. The easy way up on jugs

2a. ''Lion's whiskers V2/3'' An eliminate highball between 2 and 3. Uses a prominent side pull rail and a bold move up to the break

3. The right side of the wall using the arete

4. A short jamming problem
|}

'''The Lion's Den'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:SewerpipeLionsDen1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Lion's Den]]
|There are a couple of deceptively hard problems here

1. ''Anemone traverse'' V6. Traverses the west side of the though cave in the centre of the crag. Sit start from a jug/pocket by the left hand seaward entrance to the cave, and traverse all the way through it before topping out after passing under the final rock bridge.

2. ''Lions Cave V3'' From under-clings inside the cave make your way up the middle of the head-wall to the top. No bridging left allowed! A good preliminary extension can be done by going back 3m into the cave to a jug handle on the right wall

3. ''Lion's Garden V0'' The right hand wall via a jug (holds on the right wall are forbidden)
|}

'''The Axe'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:sewerpipe-axe3.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Axe]]
|1. ''Chris' traverse V3'' Chris Allen's sit start and up the left arrete. Uses some exquisite slopers.

2. Start in the cave, move on to the arrete and then up the seemingly fragile cemented area

3. ''A packet of crimps V3/4'' Start using a finger tip crimp 30 cm left of the large crack for the right hand. Power up to an even smaller (but positive) edge and from there to a slightly more secure crimp/pocket midway up the wall. Head for a small right facing edge and then to the block protruding from the top of the wall. Superb if you like small, spaced holds and careful footwork.

4. ''Entrance exam V0+'' Start up the crack then on good hidden holds to the top. Necky.

5. A right tending variation is harder

6. The right arrete

7. ''Danny's traverse V3'' low traverse via a baffling sloper also used in (1). Start in the cave. A higher line is significantly easier

|}

'''The Back of the axe'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeHole.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Back of the axe]]
|Usually wet but this thuggy and delicate traverse is worth waiting for

1. From Easy ground on the right use holds under the lip to bridge across the cave, From there traverse leftwards to the Axe arete
|}

'''The HB Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeHBWall1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|HB Wall]]
|This slightly impending wall gets a bit bold at the top

1. A fierce layback finger crack - lean to the right

2-5. Various other ways up the wall
|}

'''The Easy Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeEasyWall.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Easy Wall]]
|This wall has a a number of easier problems (and one hard one) but the landings need careful padding.

1. Take the Bulge Direct

2. A route going up right of the bulge

3. Take the wall between the bulge and the smooth area

4. The smooth area. Sit start with feet on small ledges - not the big one. Work up on undercuts and crimps to a sloper out left then up to a right crimp and a hard pull to easier ground. A good problem

5. The right side of the wall
|}

On the East Side of the sewerpipe area there is a headland which contains some climbable rock. A little gem of an area can be found at low tide slightly west of the end of the headland.

'''Headland Gully'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:Sewerpipe-headland1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Headland Gully]]
|
1. A Sit start with feet on the left hand side, move right and up the nose. Alternatively traverse around the end of the overhang or at V2 do a direct move for a small pocket in the flat face and upwards to the top

2. To the right of this is a good looking ''V too difficult for me'' through the roof using slopers and a long long stretch

3. Just right again sit start and climb powerfully using an undercut pocket through steep territory to the top.

4. Start as above but take a rising traverse line to finish a couple of metres to the right of the previous route

On the other side of the gully is an obvious cave.

5. Power up from inside of the cave using the left wall for hands (but you can use the right side for feet!) V2

6) Climb from inside the cave to to right wall

|}

to the east of this there is a another bay which in general does not have the quality of the sewerpipe area. However, the problems it does have are brilliant.
At the top of the bay there is a large cave with some futuristic lines if it ever dries. Bender Wall is to the left of the cave. Red roof starts at the large pillar on the right hand side of the cave. A little further to the right, around a block you will find the pillar forming the outside wall of a narrow zawn.

'''Bender Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:BenderWall.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Bender Wall]]
|
1a. ''The three Cs V4 *'' Sit start at outside the cave of 'On the town'. Avoiding the juggy crack traverse out on small holds to reach the sloper traverse of out on the town - finish up this. Although somewhat contrived this is a good problem.

1b. ''On the town V2'' Deep within the small cave left of bender wall jam out to a line of slopers. At the Apex climb up to the ledge. Brilliant

2. A shorter version, sit start and work your way up to the slopers via a good sidepull at 5 feet

3. The right hand line yields to strong fingers or a great dyno from the break to a jug - sit start

4. The right hand crystaline line

|}

'''Red roof'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeEastcave1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Red Roof RH]]
|
1. ''Hole Hanger: V4, '' From a jug at the back of the pillar work outwards up to jugs then to a large crystal hole. Using brute strength or exquisite footwork/body tension reach up to the lip and on to the top.

2. The wimpy version

3. The jump onto the wall - reminiscent of cliffhanger?

4. Chris Squared V5 *. Sit Start on the left hand side of the pillar and work to a hidden jug behind some bright red flowstone. From here move upwards and rightwards following a line about 1m higher than the arc. Work out along the apex of the cave to the headwall and finish right. Similar to the arc but longer.

4. The Arc V4. *** A Classic which benefits from a period of calm dry weather,. Start at the foot of the pillar . Work up rightwards on spaced holds to an almighty jug handle in the landward side of the roof about 3m from the start point. From here make your way to the headwall and up on crimps. Its easier if you go up one big move inside the cave before moving out, ''Chris Allen, 31/3/11 ''

5. Taste the rainbow V8 **. Starts as for The Arc but then takes a direct line through the roof on pockets, then traverse into the finish of The Arc. ''Eliot Stephens, 4/10/12 ''

6. Taste the Rainbow Direct V9. A harder version of The Arc taking a direct line through the roof and finishing direct up the overlap in the side wall. ''Eliot Stephens, 4/10/12 ''

4,5 and 6 are on UTube.

|}

{|
!width="450"|[[Image:RainbowCave1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Red Roof Back]]
|
1. ''Rainbow trout V4. **'' Takes the normally wet roof on its left hand side using pockets in the head-wall and some amazing holds in the roof . It eventualy becomes possible to reach the break which cuts across the head-wall. Follow this out and to the top

2. ''Red planet V4. *'' Like rainbow trout, needs a dry spell to come into condition. Follow the right side of roof out on amazing holds untill it is possible to cross to the other side of the domed roof. From here swing out to the headwall and its escape break. The vertical right wall is out of bounds

|}

{|
|<embedvideo description="''Taste the Rainbow''" service="youtube">https://youtu.be/MRcexYEoM94</embedvideo>
|}

'''The Pillar'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:Sewerpipe-Pillar1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Pillar]]
|
1. From a sit start work your way directly up the pillar. Those with strong arms and fingers will pull straight up, those with core strength will use the RH wall for feet.

2. The bulge on the RH wall

3. ''Labradoodle v3'' : Traverse across the pillar

|}

User talk:Chris Wyatt

2017-04-10T11:18:56Z

Chris Wyatt: /* none */ new section

.

== none ==

Did a few routes on Left buttress.

ball fondlers. Suggest VS 4b. *.. Scavenger (VS 4b) is harder.
Golf ball wall. Suggest HS. Less intimidating than ball fondlers.
Sausage party . Suggest VS 4c (maybe HVS 5a is ok)
Sheela Na Gig. HVS 5b * . Its nowhere near as hard as flying buttress at stanage which would be the bench mark for this kind of climb. Its good but in my opinion but gets * not ** because it is so short.
Amish Cyborg is as hard as Sheela Na Gig. HVS 5b in my opinion (see above)
Y Ddraig Gwrydd was very good - more interesting than Sheela Na Gig *? . Should be E1 5c as written.

The whole place has fantastic potential as a cragging venue on account of the friction in the rock. It really does feel like grit to me.

Sewerpipe

2015-09-27T19:35:01Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The entire sewerpipe area is above water 2.5 hours either side of low tide. However at neap high tides it is possible to do the problems on the back walls

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Sewerpipe Area'''

{|
!width="500"| [[Image:TheLion.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Lion]]
|<poem>Take the narrow path down the sewerpipe
Just let pedestrians shake their heads
they do not know the way to heaven!
Wave wound pebbles grind
the lion's foot,
he watches december's sun
arc the ocean sky
I touch the rock strangely warmed
hook, pull, crimp,
a microclimate warms my soul
</poem>

This place is probably the most relaxed of the Gower bouldering areas. There are a great number of easier problems and one or two hard ones.

At high tide in summer, swimming is a viable alternative to bouldering and it is great fun jumping in from the top of the lion. The lions den is submerged but it is possible to swim through taking advantage of the mid way air pocket. This is also an ideal venue for bouldering with dogs and/or children as the various walls keep things fairly managable. There is much exploring to be done.

The area lies 200m east of Rotherslade bay.

For those who like ticking UKC logbooks the problems can be found in 'Limeslade Crag'

|}

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to Rotherslade and take the coastal path East. After a couple of hundred yards a path right leads to an earth canyon containing an old Sewerpipe - Follow this to the sea and tun left. An alternative approach is to boulder hop from the beach.

Warning : Do not be distracted by the delights of the cafe - you can visit that later.

== MAP OF AREA ==
[[Image:Map3c.png]]

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The Minging Cave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:sewerpipeMinging.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Minging Cave]]
| On arrival at the site the first thing you will see is the minging cave. Although this is usually wet, most of the holds are positive and the problems are actually quite good.Now fairly solid after plenty of traffic

1. Easy jug pulling on steep ground

2.Harder jug pulling (or use the sloper) further right

3. Sit start on the arrete , move left via an undercut pocket - powerful

4. Layback the holds on the arrete all the way to the top

5. The easier layback groove

6. ''Safer Surfing'' V2 * . Depending on level of pebbles sit/crouch start using in a large wet hole at the back of the cave. A good move gets you established on a sloper further out from where various powerful crimps lead to the top.

7. The long higher traverse line.

8-9. There are various ways through the big overhang

10. Start in a subsidiary cave on the right. A rising traverse leftwards .

11. ''The canine chalk bag heist'' V4 *. Start on a low boss well out left of the main cave, traverse right along an obvious break to an awkward rest position. Launch round the first arete to reach the start holds of the layback groove. From here launch out rightwards via a painful pocket to slopers and a very steep sequence to good holds in the back of the arch. Continue rightwards to finish at the right hand end of the crag. Benefits from a dry spell.
|}

'''Darth Vader Area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:SewerpipeDarth.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Darth Vader]]
| Follow the wall down from the cave. This is the scooped area of smooth stone and the overhang to its left

1. Straight up through the overhang to the left of the arrete on pockets. The top out is not typical (ie jugless)

2. Darth Vader V3: Start with your left hand in a smallish pocket in the break, smear the smooth rock and launch to a crimpy pocket/crack up right. From this tenuous position smoothly reach up for the high break and move up slightly rightwards to the top. A very good problem which should soon be barnacle free if enough people have a go!

3. Find a way up the smooth teflon slab. Better for the flexible

|}

'''The Elephant'''
{|
!width="350"| [[Image:Elephant2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Elephant]]
|There are rumours that this is a cousin of the more famous one last seen in Fontainebleau.

1. Start round the back then up a meter or so, traverse right round the front and up to a highball finish

|}

'''Two Arretes'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Twoarretes.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Two arretes]]
| 1. ''Smooth Arrete'' V2 : a slopey body tension smeary type thing - most unlike limestone

2 The left arrete - traverse in from the left and up the arrete. A harder sit start direct variant is also possible at V3
|}

'''Flake Wall'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:FlakeWall.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Flake Wall]]

|This is generally a good warm up area but 'Flakey Pastry is worth doing in its own right

1. Up the left hand side then along the flake to its peak. Top out

2. The Wall to the right becomes generally less well featured but there is a prominent right facing spike/side pull 3 feet below the top of the flake. Use this to get to the top.

3. ''Flakey Pastry'' V3 *: Gain a less than positive left facing side pull a foot to the right of the key hold mentioned in the previous route. From here tend rightwards to the top of the flake. An interesting sequence.

4. The very obvious flake line from the right.

5. To the right of the flake you can do a short problem straight up the wall
|}

'''The Canyon'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Canyon1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Canyon]]
|The climbing is on the right wall of the Canyon (facing in). Starting on the right

1) Up the Right hand wall

2) Straight up and over the bulge from sit/crouch start jug

3) Leftwards rising traverse under overhang - some long reaches

4) ''Si's traverse '' V3: a left to right low traverse. This finishes up Pac Man's Face .

5)''Leg up for shorty'' V2 : One or two move wonder but daft positions make it fun. Starts on the seaward face of the left side of the canyon. Left heelhook on the LHS shelf, hands in the vertical slots in the middle. Somehow pullup (using intermediate sloper if you wish) and gain the large RHS sloper. Pull up using a sidepull on the LHS and gain the ramp.

There are numerous variations
|}

'''Pac Man'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:SewerPipePacMan.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Pac Man]]
|5) Start on low jugs then a couple of big swings up right to the top

6) Sit or crouch with your right hand on the end of the lower protrusion (pack man's lower lip) and with feet in the slot. Work up via a hard heel hook and RH slap in the crack to gain a standing position on the lip. Finish easily

7) (Not shown) Work into the overhang from the right (about V1)
|}

'''The bat Cave'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Louisarmstrong1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Back Cave]]
|Very Steep climbing. The rock high on route 1 has some rickety holds but is generally much better than it looks! The ground level varies quite a lot in these parts

1. '''Once is enough''' (V5) Sit Start as for Louis Armstrong but attack the overhanging cave directly using powerful side pulls. Move right towards the top avoiding breaking your head on the rock below if possible. The 'safe' variations goes left at mid height to join Louis Armstrong

2. '''Louis Armstong''' * (V3)
Start at the back, traverse leftwards on the steep wall via an obvious sloper. Make a long reach horizontally leftwards to a side pull. From here negotiate your way to a left facing layback position on good holds further left. Pull vertically upwards to a letterbox and up and right again to a reasonable hold on top of a hanging block. Holds improve while the rock gets more worrying for a few moves to the top. Variations possible

3. (V3) This shares the start with Louis armstrong but carry on traversing instead of going upwards to the letterbox. The ground eases so you can make your way to the top

4. (V4/5) Low sit start by Louis Armstrong. Take the lower traverse line to more amenable ground

5. If the pebbles are down, a sit start with a couple of hard pulls leads to more amenable climbing to the top.
|}

'''The Python'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Python.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Python]]
|This feature makes for a bit of fun

1. Sit start on the left of the python and hook either side. Shimmy up to the face on the right and exit on sharp crimps
|}

'''The Lion'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:Lion3.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Lion's ]]
|This wonderful feature dominates the area.

1. ''Lions Face V2'' The left wall avoiding either arrete

2. The easy way up on jugs

2a. ''Lion's whiskers V2/3'' An eliminate highball between 2 and 3. Uses a prominent side pull rail and a bold move up to the break

3. The right side of the wall using the arete

4. A short jamming problem
|}

'''The Lion's Den'''
{|
!width="350"|[[Image:SewerpipeLionsDen1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Lion's Den]]
|There are a couple of deceptively hard problems here

1. ''Anemone traverse'' V6. Traverses the west side of the though cave in the centre of the crag. Sit start from a jug/pocket by the left hand seaward entrance to the cave, and traverse all the way through it before topping out after passing under the final rock bridge.

2. ''Lions Cave V3'' From under-clings inside the cave make your way up the middle of the head-wall to the top. No bridging left allowed! A good preliminary extension can be done by going back 3m into the cave to a jug handle on the right wall

3. ''Lion's Garden V0'' The right hand wall via a jug (holds on the right wall are forbidden)
|}

'''The Axe'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:sewerpipe-axe3.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Axe]]
|1. ''Chris' traverse V3'' Chris Allen's sit start and up the left arrete. Uses some exquisite slopers.

2. Start in the cave, move on to the arrete and then up the seemingly fragile cemented area

3. ''A packet of crimps V3/4'' Start using a finger tip crimp 30 cm left of the large crack for the right hand. Power up to an even smaller (but positive) edge and from there to a slightly more secure crimp/pocket midway up the wall. Head for a small right facing edge and then to the block protruding from the top of the wall. Superb if you like small, spaced holds and careful footwork.

4. ''Entrance exam V0+'' Start up the crack then on good hidden holds to the top. Necky.

5. A right tending variation is harder

6. The right arrete

7. ''Danny's traverse V3'' low traverse via a baffling sloper also used in (1). Start in the cave. A higher line is significantly easier

|}

'''The Back of the axe'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeHole.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Back of the axe]]
|Usually wet but this thuggy and delicate traverse is worth waiting for

1. From Easy ground on the right use holds under the lip to bridge across the cave, From there traverse leftwards to the Axe arete
|}

'''The HB Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeHBWall1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|HB Wall]]
|This slightly impending wall gets a bit bold at the top

1. A fierce layback finger crack - lean to the right

2-5. Various other ways up the wall
|}

'''The Easy Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeEasyWall.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Easy Wall]]
|This wall has a a number of easier problems (and one hard one) but the landings need careful padding.

1. Take the Bulge Direct

2. A route going up right of the bulge

3. Take the wall between the bulge and the smooth area

4. The smooth area. Sit start with feet on small ledges - not the big one. Work up on undercuts and crimps to a sloper out left then up to a right crimp and a hard pull to easier ground. A good problem

5. The right side of the wall
|}

On the East Side of the sewerpipe area there is a headland which contains some climbable rock. A little gem of an area can be found at low tide slightly west of the end of the headland.

'''Headland Gully'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:Sewerpipe-headland1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Headland Gully]]
|
1. A Sit start with feet on the left hand side, move right and up the nose. Alternatively traverse around the end of the overhang or at V2 do a direct move for a small pocket in the flat face and upwards to the top

2. To the right of this is a good looking ''V too difficult for me'' through the roof using slopers and a long long stretch

3. Just right again sit start and climb powerfully using an undercut pocket through steep territory to the top.

4. Start as above but take a rising traverse line to finish a couple of metres to the right of the previous route

On the other side of the gully is an obvious cave.

5. Power up from inside of the cave using the left wall for hands (but you can use the right side for feet!) V2

6) Climb from inside the cave to to right wall

|}

to the east of this there is a another bay which in general does not have the quality of the sewerpipe area. However, the problems it does have are brilliant.
At the top of the bay there is a large cave with some futuristic lines if it ever dries. Bender Wall is to the left of the cave. Red roof starts at the large pillar on the right hand side of the cave. A little further to the right, around a block you will find the pillar forming the outside wall of a narrow zawn.

'''Bender Wall'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:BenderWall.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Bender Wall]]
|
1a. ''The three Cs V4 *'' Sit start at outside the cave of 'On the town'. Avoiding the juggy crack traverse out on small holds to reach the sloper traverse of out on the town - finish up this. Although somewhat contrived this is a good problem.

1b. ''On the town V2'' Deep within the small cave left of bender wall jam out to a line of slopers. At the Apex climb up to the ledge. Brilliant

2. A shorter version, sit start and work your way up to the slopers via a good sidepull at 5 feet

3. The right hand line yields to strong fingers or a great dyno from the break to a jug - sit start

4. The right hand crystaline line

|}

'''Red roof'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:SewerpipeEastcave1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Red Roof RH]]
|
1. ''Hole Hanger: V4, '' From a jug at the back of the pillar work outwards up to jugs then to a large crystal hole. Using brute strength or exquisite footwork/body tension reach up to the lip and on to the top.

2. The wimpy version

3. The jump onto the wall - reminiscent of cliffhanger?

4. Chris Squared V5 *. Sit Start on the left hand side of the pillar and work to a hidden jug behind some bright red flowstone. From here move upwards and rightwards following a line about 1m higher than the arc. Work out along the apex of the cave to the headwall and finish right. Similar to the arc but longer.

4. The Arc V4. *** A Classic which benefits from a period of calm dry weather,. Start at the foot of the pillar . Work up rightwards on spaced holds to an almighty jug handle in the landward side of the roof about 3m from the start point. From here make your way to the headwall and up on crimps. Its easier if you go up one big move inside the cave before moving out, ''Chris Allen, 31/3/11 ''

5. Taste the rainbow V8 **. Starts as for The Arc but then takes a direct line through the roof on pockets, then traverse into the finish of The Arc. ''Eliot Stephens, 4/10/12 ''

6. Taste the Rainbow Direct V9. A harder version of The Arc taking a direct line through the roof and finishing direct up the overlap in the side wall. ''Eliot Stephens, 4/10/12 ''

4,5 and 6 are on UTube.

|}

{|
!width="450"|[[Image:RainbowCave1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Red Roof Back]]
|
1. ''Rainbow trout V4. **'' Takes the normally wet roof on its left hand side using pockets in the head-wall and some amazing holds in the roof . It eventualy becomes possible to reach the break which cuts across the head-wall. Follow this out and to the top

2. ''Red planet V4. *'' Like rainbow trout, needs a dry spell to come into condition. Follow the right side of roof out on amazing holds untill it is possible to cross to the other side of the domed roof. From here swing out to the headwall and its escape break. The vertical right wall is out of bounds

|}

{|
|<video type="youtube" id="MRcexYEoM94" width="500" position="left" desc="Taste the Rainbow at [[Rotherslade]]"/>
|}

'''The Pillar'''
{|
!width="450"|[[Image:Sewerpipe-Pillar1.jpg|thumb|400px|left|The Pillar]]
|
1. From a sit start work your way directly up the pillar. Those with strong arms and fingers will pull straight up, those with core strength will use the RH wall for feet.

2. The bulge on the RH wall

3. ''Labradoodle v3'' : Traverse across the pillar

|}

Great Tor East

2015-09-23T19:10:52Z

Chris Wyatt: /* First Corner */

[[Image:Island from nr odins.jpg|right|thumb|800px|[[Great Tor East]]]]
[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
''Obscenities'' is Non-tidal. The other routes 1½ to 3 hours either side of low water, increasing towards
the end of the section.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
Another pleasant area with many easy routes. Worthy of description, if only to help take some pressure off [[Three Cliffs]] and [[Little Tor]].

The cliffs are described moving landwards (left to right facing away from the sea) along the eastern
coastline of the [[Great Tor]] headland, which forms the west side of [[Three Cliffs]] Bay. Although the area is liberally
covered with rock a series of inlets and bays provide the main interest, the first encountered being ''Shallow Cut''.

== DESCENTS ==
Descents are by scrambling down various grooves in the area.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Shallow Cut===

About 25m right of the starting platform of ''East Ridge'' is a shallow recess with a chimney in the back.

1. '''Stefan Hermann And The Mothers Of Invention''' 10m HS,4a

Climb the chimney and subsequent corner forming the left side of the recess.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

2. '''Careless McGee '''10m HVD

Scramble up to the ledge half-way up the right corner of the recess and finish up the corner crack.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

3. '''Another Brixius In The Wall '''10m M

The right-hand arete of the recess.

D.Dilligence Pre-2003

===Deep Cut===

This distinctive gash lies below a prominent subsidiary ridge to the east of East Ridge. Climbing is only possible around low water.

4. '''Left Edge '''15m VD

The left edge of Deep Cut contains two corners. Follow the first over a bulge to a slabby finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

5. '''The Camille Wester Fan Club '''15m VS,4c

The right-hand corner.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

6. '''Chasm '''18m HVD

The right wall of Deep Cut contains a leftward rising ledge. Gain and follow this from the right of a bulge. Chimney up the back wall, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

7. '''Left Crack '''15m S *

Follow Chasm to the ledge, then take a short corner to a ledge. Choose from a cluster of cracks to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

8. '''Right Edge '''18m M

The right edge of Deep Cut.

J.Talbot 00.00.1960

9. '''Arcelor Bandit '''18m VD

The arete 3m right of Right Edge.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

10. '''LEG And Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring '''18m D

The shallow corner immediately right of Arcelor Bandit.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

The next 2 routes lie above the beach level line of outcrops, in a conspicuous recess.

===Odin's Cave===
11. '''Obscenities '''12m E4 6b

The right wall and rib of the cave. Climb the rib, TR, 2PRs, to the roof. Pull through into the groove via very thin moves until a "thank God" hold can be reached. Continue direct to the top (a pre-placed rope belay is advisable).

''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990''

Not actually in Odin's Cave, but on the broken slabs to the right is the following route:-

11a. '''Another Fine Mess''' 14m Severe

Take a line on the slabs to the right of the ''Obscenities''. Some loose rock here.

''Mark Winder, A. N. Other 27.04.2011''

===Odin's Wall===
[[Image:Odins topo.jpg|thumb|700px|'''Odin's Wall''']]
The most attractive of the crags lying on the west side of [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs Bay]], [[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]], is composed of the best Gower Limestone and provides a variety of well protected quality lines. It is the wall at right angles to the last few routes described, some 70m back from the headland. Accessible approximately 2½ hours either side of low tide.

12. '''Left Corner And Crack '''18m HVS,5a

The left end of the wall forms a corner. Climb this to a big ledge and follow the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

13. '''Cave Crack Direct '''20m VS,4b *

Follow ''Left Corner'' And Crack to the ledge. Traverse delicately right into a hollow and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

14. '''Cave Crack '''18m HS,4b

Follow ''Cave Crack Direct'' to the hollow, but finish up the diagonal crack on the right.

''R.Owen, D.Jones, A.Bevan 00.00.1959''

15. '''Direct '''21m VS,5a

Start at a recess to the right of a cave. Step over the pool to use the recess to gain the cracks above. Climb these with conviction, to a rest and an easier finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''
[[Image:Cave crack graffitti.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Alex on ''Cave Crack Direct'']]
[[Image:Chis beynon odins.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Chris Beyon on ''Flectl'', '''[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]]]]'''
16. '''Fiechtl '''18m S

A niche forms the start of the next pronounced crack to the right. Follow this until a horizontal break leads to a series of cracks forming the right side of the main wall.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

17. '''Wide Crack '''18m D

Start as for ''Fiechtl''. Climb the tricky wide crack, chimney and corner to the top.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. '''Happy Feet''' 17m S,4a

Start at the second barnacle covered crack to the right of ''Wide Crack'', climb to a small ledge then follow the obvious thin crack line to a second ledge, climb straight up the smoother slab to the top.

''C.Evans, P.Leeder 20.08.2014''

19. '''Pillar Crack '''15m D

The chimney right of ''Wide Crack'' often has a pool at its barnacle-ridden base. A preferable start lies 1m left, before joining the chimney at a ledge.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Girdle Traverse '''18m VS,4c

Start as for ''Fiechtl'' and continue leftwards at mid height to finish on the ledge of Left ''Corner and Crack''.

===Odin's Wall East Facet===

Slightly right and up from Odin's Wall lie a series of pillars and corners. The first pillar of note is called the Second Pillar.

====Second Pillar====

The first route here follows the obvious South East facing cracked corner at the top left of the bay.

20. '''Left Corner '''12m D

Follow the crack, with good jams past a bulge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

21. '''South Wall '''12m D

From the base of the crack ''Left Corner'', step right and climb the narrow wall.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

22. '''East Edge '''15m D

Follow the arete to the right of ''South Wall'', taking care with the rock near the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

23. '''Wall And Corner '''15m VD

The wall just before ''Left Crack''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Left Crack '''15m D

Set back from the last route is a gashed feature. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

'''First Pillar'''

Is nothing more than a continuation of the rock.

25. '''South Face '''15m D

The steep juggy face just to the right of Left Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Left Edge '''15m S

Take the arete with little in the way of protection.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Left Pillar Direct '''15m VD

Takes the narrow east face of the ''First Pillar''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''East Corner Crack '''16m D

A good line up the cracked corner, bounding the right side of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The rest of this recessed bay can be climbed anywhere at less than Moderate standard. The cliff now becomes more broken. The next bay, 150m on is known as Third Corner, Which may house a route up some grooves on the left wall (''Living Wall'' HVS,5a, L.Cole, M.Condick 09.04.2002). The next area to be encountered, 100m past Third Bay houses a number of good lines.

==== First Pillar====

===Second Corner===

The left wall of the Second Corner is marked by a v-shaped nose at its centre. Left of this nose lie two corners.

29. '''Left Corner '''8m D

The left of the two corners.

''J.Talbot 1959''

30. '''Buttress '''8m M

The rock between Left Corner and Sharp Edge.

J.Talbot 1959)

31. '''Sharp Edge '''10m VD

Takes the short slab followed by the corner above, which provides good laybacking.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

32. '''The Nose '''10m HS,4a

Start in a hollow just right of the slab of Sharp Edge. Climb up left to a ledge on that route, before swinging right onto the nose which is taken to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Quartz Slab '''10m VD

Attain the quartz flecked slab just right of The Nose. Follow this with help from the crack to the right, to a bulge. Surmount this to follow the edge above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Block Buttress '''8m S

The wall right of Quartz Slab, is climbed by moving firstly a little right and then back into the centre of the wall to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

===The South Wall===
This buttress forms the right face of the Second Corner. It is notable for the chimney that splits it.

35. '''Dr. Focke’s Pension Fund''' 7m HVS,5b

A problem up a vague groove in the left arete of the chimney recess.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

36. '''South Chimney And Slab''' 15m VD *

From the back of the chimney, back and footing gains a ledge, from where a crack leads to a steepening. Step up and left over this, to finish up the slab above. Entertaining.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

37. '''Left Arete''' 7m S,4c

Climb the slabby right face of the arete to the right. Delicate.

''J.Kerry, A. Randall 00.00.1970''

38. '''RIP Norman''' 7m D

Off to the right is a hole. Crawl in through this and climb the chimney above.

''L.Cole 16.03.2003''

39. '''Taste Of Spring Chicken''' 7m S

Off to the right is a platform. Follow the corner up from this and the crack above.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

40. '''Scary Cow Don’t Jump''' 7m E1,5c

Climb the arete from a small boulder.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

===Monty's Slab===
[[Image:First corner-a wall.jpg|right|700px|thumb|[[#Monty's Slab|Monty's Slab]] and [[#First Corner|First Corner]]]]
Just before the [[#First Corner|First Corner]] is reached you reach a small slabby zawn.

41. '''Master Bates Smear''' HVS,5b

Climb the slab direct.

''(LM.Condick, L.Cole 2002)''

42. ''' Monty's Slab''' HS,5a

Follow a vague crack diagonally left after a hard start.

''(J.Kerry, A.March 1971)''

===First Corner===
100 metres along the coast lies another bay of cliffs. The left wall leans gently and is full of cracks, the right wall being
composed of an hectic arrangement of pillars.

The gently leaning east wall contains a number of routes. Cherry grove is the corner on the left end of this wall.

Here's a bit of a story : The next two climbs waited 50 years for a first ascent . When it finally did come two totally independent parties bagged them on the same day. Steve and Will climbed them at 2pm whereas Chris and Cherry climbed them at 4pm. Chris and Cherry were understandably gutted!

43a '''shoulda brought a beer towel''' 9m HVS, 5b *
The crack in the left of cherry grove with a tricky start . Turn the overhang to the left. Sustained

''Steve Grigg 01.10.2015''

43b '''Steve Get Naked''' 9m S, 4a *
The corner. Move right towartds the top

''Will Nicholson 01.10.2015''

43c '''The Road to Azerbajan''' 9m E1, 5b *
The crack in the left of the wall with a tricky start and a fierce lay-back to finish. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.07.2014''

44. '''Onion Crack (Weeping Crack)''' 9m VS,5a *

The last crack on the right end of the wall is the most obvious.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

''Block Corner'' D (J.Talbot 1959) bounds the right end of the leaning wall. Right of this is a pillar and a cave entrance.

45. '''Left Corner Block Wall''' 12m D

Ascend the groove on the left of the cave. At half-height, move right around a flake, then step back up left to a narrow corner and a conglomerate top out.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

A cave at its left-hand end is followed rightwards by a series of pillars of varying height, to another through cave and
a holed slab.

46. '''Block Wall''' 12m S,4a

Bridge the cave just right of ''Left Corner Block Wall''. Pull up into the crack above. From the crack an obvious foothold is used to cross the wall leftwards to a crack. Follow this to a small conglomerate overhang, then move right and up to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

47. '''Central Pillar''' 13m HS,4b

A corner just right of the cave leads to a ledge beneath an arete. Swing left onto the face along a horizontal crack, to join ''Block Wall''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The corner right of ''Central Pillar'' is ''Stalactite'' HD (J.Talbot 1959), whose right arete is ''Commitment'' 4b (J.Talbot 1959).
Stepping down and right is a through cave with a slab to its right.

48. '''Hole Slab''' 8m D

Begin at a shallow corner at the right side of the slab (the corner itself is Right Corner M (J.Talbot 1959). Step left as soon as possible onto the slab. Move up to the distinct hole, exiting up the slab above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

49. '''Proud Slab''' 7m D

The proud slab right of ''Right Corner''.

''Unknown Pre-1978'

===High Slab===
This is the steep slab set behind the climbs at south wall (visible in the photo). Currently slightly vegetated but good quality bold routes await those who are willing to give this piece of esoterica a go

50. '''Gardeners Question time''' 12m E2 5c *

Takes a slightly wondering line up the most compact and highest part of the slab . Start below a horizontal crack /notch. Find a way up to this, step left then take a rising line on micro cracks rightwards eventually reaching a small downward pointing tooth/flake in the upper part of the wall. From here tend slightly left to the top. Reasonable block belays. A good, bold and technically demanding climb

''Chris Wyatt 7/7/2014''

===Ramp Zawn===
A narrow zawn whose left wall lies at about 40 degrees and whose right wall is composed of boulders. It is due north
from the Rock Island and has a steep slab at its back.

49. '''Cracked Slab''' 12m VD

Follow the crack in the slab.

''S.Jacques 00.00.1998''

51. '''Lucy Slab''' 12m VD

On the tidal island itself, climb the centre of the main face.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

52. '''Look-out Lucy''' 12m D

Climb the crack to the right of ''Lucy Slab''.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

Great Tor East

2015-09-19T21:43:54Z

Chris Wyatt: /* High Slab */

[[Image:Island from nr odins.jpg|right|thumb|800px|[[Great Tor East]]]]
[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
''Obscenities'' is Non-tidal. The other routes 1½ to 3 hours either side of low water, increasing towards
the end of the section.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
Another pleasant area with many easy routes. Worthy of description, if only to help take some pressure off [[Three Cliffs]] and [[Little Tor]].

The cliffs are described moving landwards (left to right facing away from the sea) along the eastern
coastline of the [[Great Tor]] headland, which forms the west side of [[Three Cliffs]] Bay. Although the area is liberally
covered with rock a series of inlets and bays provide the main interest, the first encountered being ''Shallow Cut''.

== DESCENTS ==
Descents are by scrambling down various grooves in the area.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Shallow Cut===

About 25m right of the starting platform of ''East Ridge'' is a shallow recess with a chimney in the back.

1. '''Stefan Hermann And The Mothers Of Invention''' 10m HS,4a

Climb the chimney and subsequent corner forming the left side of the recess.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

2. '''Careless McGee '''10m HVD

Scramble up to the ledge half-way up the right corner of the recess and finish up the corner crack.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

3. '''Another Brixius In The Wall '''10m M

The right-hand arete of the recess.

D.Dilligence Pre-2003

===Deep Cut===

This distinctive gash lies below a prominent subsidiary ridge to the east of East Ridge. Climbing is only possible around low water.

4. '''Left Edge '''15m VD

The left edge of Deep Cut contains two corners. Follow the first over a bulge to a slabby finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

5. '''The Camille Wester Fan Club '''15m VS,4c

The right-hand corner.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

6. '''Chasm '''18m HVD

The right wall of Deep Cut contains a leftward rising ledge. Gain and follow this from the right of a bulge. Chimney up the back wall, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

7. '''Left Crack '''15m S *

Follow Chasm to the ledge, then take a short corner to a ledge. Choose from a cluster of cracks to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

8. '''Right Edge '''18m M

The right edge of Deep Cut.

J.Talbot 00.00.1960

9. '''Arcelor Bandit '''18m VD

The arete 3m right of Right Edge.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

10. '''LEG And Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring '''18m D

The shallow corner immediately right of Arcelor Bandit.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

The next 2 routes lie above the beach level line of outcrops, in a conspicuous recess.

===Odin's Cave===
11. '''Obscenities '''12m E4 6b

The right wall and rib of the cave. Climb the rib, TR, 2PRs, to the roof. Pull through into the groove via very thin moves until a "thank God" hold can be reached. Continue direct to the top (a pre-placed rope belay is advisable).

''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990''

Not actually in Odin's Cave, but on the broken slabs to the right is the following route:-

11a. '''Another Fine Mess''' 14m Severe

Take a line on the slabs to the right of the ''Obscenities''. Some loose rock here.

''Mark Winder, A. N. Other 27.04.2011''

===Odin's Wall===
[[Image:Odins topo.jpg|thumb|700px|'''Odin's Wall''']]
The most attractive of the crags lying on the west side of [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs Bay]], [[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]], is composed of the best Gower Limestone and provides a variety of well protected quality lines. It is the wall at right angles to the last few routes described, some 70m back from the headland. Accessible approximately 2½ hours either side of low tide.

12. '''Left Corner And Crack '''18m HVS,5a

The left end of the wall forms a corner. Climb this to a big ledge and follow the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

13. '''Cave Crack Direct '''20m VS,4b *

Follow ''Left Corner'' And Crack to the ledge. Traverse delicately right into a hollow and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

14. '''Cave Crack '''18m HS,4b

Follow ''Cave Crack Direct'' to the hollow, but finish up the diagonal crack on the right.

''R.Owen, D.Jones, A.Bevan 00.00.1959''

15. '''Direct '''21m VS,5a

Start at a recess to the right of a cave. Step over the pool to use the recess to gain the cracks above. Climb these with conviction, to a rest and an easier finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''
[[Image:Cave crack graffitti.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Alex on ''Cave Crack Direct'']]
[[Image:Chis beynon odins.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Chris Beyon on ''Flectl'', '''[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]]]]'''
16. '''Fiechtl '''18m S

A niche forms the start of the next pronounced crack to the right. Follow this until a horizontal break leads to a series of cracks forming the right side of the main wall.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

17. '''Wide Crack '''18m D

Start as for ''Fiechtl''. Climb the tricky wide crack, chimney and corner to the top.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. '''Happy Feet''' 17m S,4a

Start at the second barnacle covered crack to the right of ''Wide Crack'', climb to a small ledge then follow the obvious thin crack line to a second ledge, climb straight up the smoother slab to the top.

''C.Evans, P.Leeder 20.08.2014''

19. '''Pillar Crack '''15m D

The chimney right of ''Wide Crack'' often has a pool at its barnacle-ridden base. A preferable start lies 1m left, before joining the chimney at a ledge.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Girdle Traverse '''18m VS,4c

Start as for ''Fiechtl'' and continue leftwards at mid height to finish on the ledge of Left ''Corner and Crack''.

===Odin's Wall East Facet===

Slightly right and up from Odin's Wall lie a series of pillars and corners. The first pillar of note is called the Second Pillar.

====Second Pillar====

The first route here follows the obvious South East facing cracked corner at the top left of the bay.

20. '''Left Corner '''12m D

Follow the crack, with good jams past a bulge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

21. '''South Wall '''12m D

From the base of the crack ''Left Corner'', step right and climb the narrow wall.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

22. '''East Edge '''15m D

Follow the arete to the right of ''South Wall'', taking care with the rock near the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

23. '''Wall And Corner '''15m VD

The wall just before ''Left Crack''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Left Crack '''15m D

Set back from the last route is a gashed feature. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

'''First Pillar'''

Is nothing more than a continuation of the rock.

25. '''South Face '''15m D

The steep juggy face just to the right of Left Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Left Edge '''15m S

Take the arete with little in the way of protection.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Left Pillar Direct '''15m VD

Takes the narrow east face of the ''First Pillar''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''East Corner Crack '''16m D

A good line up the cracked corner, bounding the right side of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The rest of this recessed bay can be climbed anywhere at less than Moderate standard. The cliff now becomes more broken. The next bay, 150m on is known as Third Corner, Which may house a route up some grooves on the left wall (''Living Wall'' HVS,5a, L.Cole, M.Condick 09.04.2002). The next area to be encountered, 100m past Third Bay houses a number of good lines.

==== First Pillar====

===Second Corner===

The left wall of the Second Corner is marked by a v-shaped nose at its centre. Left of this nose lie two corners.

29. '''Left Corner '''8m D

The left of the two corners.

''J.Talbot 1959''

30. '''Buttress '''8m M

The rock between Left Corner and Sharp Edge.

J.Talbot 1959)

31. '''Sharp Edge '''10m VD

Takes the short slab followed by the corner above, which provides good laybacking.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

32. '''The Nose '''10m HS,4a

Start in a hollow just right of the slab of Sharp Edge. Climb up left to a ledge on that route, before swinging right onto the nose which is taken to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Quartz Slab '''10m VD

Attain the quartz flecked slab just right of The Nose. Follow this with help from the crack to the right, to a bulge. Surmount this to follow the edge above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Block Buttress '''8m S

The wall right of Quartz Slab, is climbed by moving firstly a little right and then back into the centre of the wall to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

===The South Wall===
This buttress forms the right face of the Second Corner. It is notable for the chimney that splits it.

35. '''Dr. Focke’s Pension Fund''' 7m HVS,5b

A problem up a vague groove in the left arete of the chimney recess.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

36. '''South Chimney And Slab''' 15m VD *

From the back of the chimney, back and footing gains a ledge, from where a crack leads to a steepening. Step up and left over this, to finish up the slab above. Entertaining.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

37. '''Left Arete''' 7m S,4c

Climb the slabby right face of the arete to the right. Delicate.

''J.Kerry, A. Randall 00.00.1970''

38. '''RIP Norman''' 7m D

Off to the right is a hole. Crawl in through this and climb the chimney above.

''L.Cole 16.03.2003''

39. '''Taste Of Spring Chicken''' 7m S

Off to the right is a platform. Follow the corner up from this and the crack above.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

40. '''Scary Cow Don’t Jump''' 7m E1,5c

Climb the arete from a small boulder.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

===Monty's Slab===
[[Image:First corner-a wall.jpg|right|700px|thumb|[[#Monty's Slab|Monty's Slab]] and [[#First Corner|First Corner]]]]
Just before the [[#First Corner|First Corner]] is reached you reach a small slabby zawn.

41. '''Master Bates Smear''' HVS,5b

Climb the slab direct.

''(LM.Condick, L.Cole 2002)''

42. ''' Monty's Slab''' HS,5a

Follow a vague crack diagonally left after a hard start.

''(J.Kerry, A.March 1971)''

===First Corner===
100 metres along the coast lies another bay of cliffs. The left wall leans gently and is full of cracks, the right wall being
composed of an hectic arrangement of pillars.

The gently leaning east wall contains a number of routes. Cherry grove is the corner on the left end of this wall.

43a '''Archies' chicken thievery''' 9m HVS, 5b *
The crack in the left of cherry grove with a tricky start . Turn the overhang to the left. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43b '''Cherry Grove''' 9m S, 4a *
The corner. Move right towartds the top

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43c '''The Road to Azerbajan''' 9m E1, 5b *
The crack in the left of the wall with a tricky start and a fierce lay-back to finish. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.07.2014''

44. '''Onion Crack (Weeping Crack)''' 9m VS,5a *

The last crack on the right end of the wall is the most obvious.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

''Block Corner'' D (J.Talbot 1959) bounds the right end of the leaning wall. Right of this is a pillar and a cave entrance.

45. '''Left Corner Block Wall''' 12m D

Ascend the groove on the left of the cave. At half-height, move right around a flake, then step back up left to a narrow corner and a conglomerate top out.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

A cave at its left-hand end is followed rightwards by a series of pillars of varying height, to another through cave and
a holed slab.

46. '''Block Wall''' 12m S,4a

Bridge the cave just right of ''Left Corner Block Wall''. Pull up into the crack above. From the crack an obvious foothold is used to cross the wall leftwards to a crack. Follow this to a small conglomerate overhang, then move right and up to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

47. '''Central Pillar''' 13m HS,4b

A corner just right of the cave leads to a ledge beneath an arete. Swing left onto the face along a horizontal crack, to join ''Block Wall''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The corner right of ''Central Pillar'' is ''Stalactite'' HD (J.Talbot 1959), whose right arete is ''Commitment'' 4b (J.Talbot 1959).
Stepping down and right is a through cave with a slab to its right.

48. '''Hole Slab''' 8m D

Begin at a shallow corner at the right side of the slab (the corner itself is Right Corner M (J.Talbot 1959). Step left as soon as possible onto the slab. Move up to the distinct hole, exiting up the slab above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

49. '''Proud Slab''' 7m D

The proud slab right of ''Right Corner''.

''Unknown Pre-1978'

===High Slab===
This is the steep slab set behind the climbs at south wall (visible in the photo). Currently slightly vegetated but good quality bold routes await those who are willing to give this piece of esoterica a go

50. '''Gardeners Question time''' 12m E2 5c *

Takes a slightly wondering line up the most compact and highest part of the slab . Start below a horizontal crack /notch. Find a way up to this, step left then take a rising line on micro cracks rightwards eventually reaching a small downward pointing tooth/flake in the upper part of the wall. From here tend slightly left to the top. Reasonable block belays. A good, bold and technically demanding climb

''Chris Wyatt 7/7/2014''

===Ramp Zawn===
A narrow zawn whose left wall lies at about 40 degrees and whose right wall is composed of boulders. It is due north
from the Rock Island and has a steep slab at its back.

49. '''Cracked Slab''' 12m VD

Follow the crack in the slab.

''S.Jacques 00.00.1998''

51. '''Lucy Slab''' 12m VD

On the tidal island itself, climb the centre of the main face.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

52. '''Look-out Lucy''' 12m D

Climb the crack to the right of ''Lucy Slab''.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

Great Tor East

2015-09-19T21:40:13Z

Chris Wyatt: /* First Corner */

[[Image:Island from nr odins.jpg|right|thumb|800px|[[Great Tor East]]]]
[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
''Obscenities'' is Non-tidal. The other routes 1½ to 3 hours either side of low water, increasing towards
the end of the section.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
Another pleasant area with many easy routes. Worthy of description, if only to help take some pressure off [[Three Cliffs]] and [[Little Tor]].

The cliffs are described moving landwards (left to right facing away from the sea) along the eastern
coastline of the [[Great Tor]] headland, which forms the west side of [[Three Cliffs]] Bay. Although the area is liberally
covered with rock a series of inlets and bays provide the main interest, the first encountered being ''Shallow Cut''.

== DESCENTS ==
Descents are by scrambling down various grooves in the area.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Shallow Cut===

About 25m right of the starting platform of ''East Ridge'' is a shallow recess with a chimney in the back.

1. '''Stefan Hermann And The Mothers Of Invention''' 10m HS,4a

Climb the chimney and subsequent corner forming the left side of the recess.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

2. '''Careless McGee '''10m HVD

Scramble up to the ledge half-way up the right corner of the recess and finish up the corner crack.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

3. '''Another Brixius In The Wall '''10m M

The right-hand arete of the recess.

D.Dilligence Pre-2003

===Deep Cut===

This distinctive gash lies below a prominent subsidiary ridge to the east of East Ridge. Climbing is only possible around low water.

4. '''Left Edge '''15m VD

The left edge of Deep Cut contains two corners. Follow the first over a bulge to a slabby finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

5. '''The Camille Wester Fan Club '''15m VS,4c

The right-hand corner.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

6. '''Chasm '''18m HVD

The right wall of Deep Cut contains a leftward rising ledge. Gain and follow this from the right of a bulge. Chimney up the back wall, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

7. '''Left Crack '''15m S *

Follow Chasm to the ledge, then take a short corner to a ledge. Choose from a cluster of cracks to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

8. '''Right Edge '''18m M

The right edge of Deep Cut.

J.Talbot 00.00.1960

9. '''Arcelor Bandit '''18m VD

The arete 3m right of Right Edge.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

10. '''LEG And Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring '''18m D

The shallow corner immediately right of Arcelor Bandit.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

The next 2 routes lie above the beach level line of outcrops, in a conspicuous recess.

===Odin's Cave===
11. '''Obscenities '''12m E4 6b

The right wall and rib of the cave. Climb the rib, TR, 2PRs, to the roof. Pull through into the groove via very thin moves until a "thank God" hold can be reached. Continue direct to the top (a pre-placed rope belay is advisable).

''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990''

Not actually in Odin's Cave, but on the broken slabs to the right is the following route:-

11a. '''Another Fine Mess''' 14m Severe

Take a line on the slabs to the right of the ''Obscenities''. Some loose rock here.

''Mark Winder, A. N. Other 27.04.2011''

===Odin's Wall===
[[Image:Odins topo.jpg|thumb|700px|'''Odin's Wall''']]
The most attractive of the crags lying on the west side of [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs Bay]], [[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]], is composed of the best Gower Limestone and provides a variety of well protected quality lines. It is the wall at right angles to the last few routes described, some 70m back from the headland. Accessible approximately 2½ hours either side of low tide.

12. '''Left Corner And Crack '''18m HVS,5a

The left end of the wall forms a corner. Climb this to a big ledge and follow the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

13. '''Cave Crack Direct '''20m VS,4b *

Follow ''Left Corner'' And Crack to the ledge. Traverse delicately right into a hollow and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

14. '''Cave Crack '''18m HS,4b

Follow ''Cave Crack Direct'' to the hollow, but finish up the diagonal crack on the right.

''R.Owen, D.Jones, A.Bevan 00.00.1959''

15. '''Direct '''21m VS,5a

Start at a recess to the right of a cave. Step over the pool to use the recess to gain the cracks above. Climb these with conviction, to a rest and an easier finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''
[[Image:Cave crack graffitti.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Alex on ''Cave Crack Direct'']]
[[Image:Chis beynon odins.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Chris Beyon on ''Flectl'', '''[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]]]]'''
16. '''Fiechtl '''18m S

A niche forms the start of the next pronounced crack to the right. Follow this until a horizontal break leads to a series of cracks forming the right side of the main wall.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

17. '''Wide Crack '''18m D

Start as for ''Fiechtl''. Climb the tricky wide crack, chimney and corner to the top.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. '''Happy Feet''' 17m S,4a

Start at the second barnacle covered crack to the right of ''Wide Crack'', climb to a small ledge then follow the obvious thin crack line to a second ledge, climb straight up the smoother slab to the top.

''C.Evans, P.Leeder 20.08.2014''

19. '''Pillar Crack '''15m D

The chimney right of ''Wide Crack'' often has a pool at its barnacle-ridden base. A preferable start lies 1m left, before joining the chimney at a ledge.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Girdle Traverse '''18m VS,4c

Start as for ''Fiechtl'' and continue leftwards at mid height to finish on the ledge of Left ''Corner and Crack''.

===Odin's Wall East Facet===

Slightly right and up from Odin's Wall lie a series of pillars and corners. The first pillar of note is called the Second Pillar.

====Second Pillar====

The first route here follows the obvious South East facing cracked corner at the top left of the bay.

20. '''Left Corner '''12m D

Follow the crack, with good jams past a bulge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

21. '''South Wall '''12m D

From the base of the crack ''Left Corner'', step right and climb the narrow wall.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

22. '''East Edge '''15m D

Follow the arete to the right of ''South Wall'', taking care with the rock near the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

23. '''Wall And Corner '''15m VD

The wall just before ''Left Crack''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Left Crack '''15m D

Set back from the last route is a gashed feature. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

'''First Pillar'''

Is nothing more than a continuation of the rock.

25. '''South Face '''15m D

The steep juggy face just to the right of Left Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Left Edge '''15m S

Take the arete with little in the way of protection.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Left Pillar Direct '''15m VD

Takes the narrow east face of the ''First Pillar''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''East Corner Crack '''16m D

A good line up the cracked corner, bounding the right side of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The rest of this recessed bay can be climbed anywhere at less than Moderate standard. The cliff now becomes more broken. The next bay, 150m on is known as Third Corner, Which may house a route up some grooves on the left wall (''Living Wall'' HVS,5a, L.Cole, M.Condick 09.04.2002). The next area to be encountered, 100m past Third Bay houses a number of good lines.

==== First Pillar====

===Second Corner===

The left wall of the Second Corner is marked by a v-shaped nose at its centre. Left of this nose lie two corners.

29. '''Left Corner '''8m D

The left of the two corners.

''J.Talbot 1959''

30. '''Buttress '''8m M

The rock between Left Corner and Sharp Edge.

J.Talbot 1959)

31. '''Sharp Edge '''10m VD

Takes the short slab followed by the corner above, which provides good laybacking.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

32. '''The Nose '''10m HS,4a

Start in a hollow just right of the slab of Sharp Edge. Climb up left to a ledge on that route, before swinging right onto the nose which is taken to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Quartz Slab '''10m VD

Attain the quartz flecked slab just right of The Nose. Follow this with help from the crack to the right, to a bulge. Surmount this to follow the edge above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Block Buttress '''8m S

The wall right of Quartz Slab, is climbed by moving firstly a little right and then back into the centre of the wall to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

===The South Wall===
This buttress forms the right face of the Second Corner. It is notable for the chimney that splits it.

35. '''Dr. Focke’s Pension Fund''' 7m HVS,5b

A problem up a vague groove in the left arete of the chimney recess.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

36. '''South Chimney And Slab''' 15m VD *

From the back of the chimney, back and footing gains a ledge, from where a crack leads to a steepening. Step up and left over this, to finish up the slab above. Entertaining.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

37. '''Left Arete''' 7m S,4c

Climb the slabby right face of the arete to the right. Delicate.

''J.Kerry, A. Randall 00.00.1970''

38. '''RIP Norman''' 7m D

Off to the right is a hole. Crawl in through this and climb the chimney above.

''L.Cole 16.03.2003''

39. '''Taste Of Spring Chicken''' 7m S

Off to the right is a platform. Follow the corner up from this and the crack above.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

40. '''Scary Cow Don’t Jump''' 7m E1,5c

Climb the arete from a small boulder.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

===Monty's Slab===
[[Image:First corner-a wall.jpg|right|700px|thumb|[[#Monty's Slab|Monty's Slab]] and [[#First Corner|First Corner]]]]
Just before the [[#First Corner|First Corner]] is reached you reach a small slabby zawn.

41. '''Master Bates Smear''' HVS,5b

Climb the slab direct.

''(LM.Condick, L.Cole 2002)''

42. ''' Monty's Slab''' HS,5a

Follow a vague crack diagonally left after a hard start.

''(J.Kerry, A.March 1971)''

===First Corner===
100 metres along the coast lies another bay of cliffs. The left wall leans gently and is full of cracks, the right wall being
composed of an hectic arrangement of pillars.

The gently leaning east wall contains a number of routes. Cherry grove is the corner on the left end of this wall.

43a '''Archies' chicken thievery''' 9m HVS, 5b *
The crack in the left of cherry grove with a tricky start . Turn the overhang to the left. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43b '''Cherry Grove''' 9m S, 4a *
The corner. Move right towartds the top

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43c '''The Road to Azerbajan''' 9m E1, 5b *
The crack in the left of the wall with a tricky start and a fierce lay-back to finish. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.07.2014''

44. '''Onion Crack (Weeping Crack)''' 9m VS,5a *

The last crack on the right end of the wall is the most obvious.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

''Block Corner'' D (J.Talbot 1959) bounds the right end of the leaning wall. Right of this is a pillar and a cave entrance.

45. '''Left Corner Block Wall''' 12m D

Ascend the groove on the left of the cave. At half-height, move right around a flake, then step back up left to a narrow corner and a conglomerate top out.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

A cave at its left-hand end is followed rightwards by a series of pillars of varying height, to another through cave and
a holed slab.

46. '''Block Wall''' 12m S,4a

Bridge the cave just right of ''Left Corner Block Wall''. Pull up into the crack above. From the crack an obvious foothold is used to cross the wall leftwards to a crack. Follow this to a small conglomerate overhang, then move right and up to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

47. '''Central Pillar''' 13m HS,4b

A corner just right of the cave leads to a ledge beneath an arete. Swing left onto the face along a horizontal crack, to join ''Block Wall''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The corner right of ''Central Pillar'' is ''Stalactite'' HD (J.Talbot 1959), whose right arete is ''Commitment'' 4b (J.Talbot 1959).
Stepping down and right is a through cave with a slab to its right.

48. '''Hole Slab''' 8m D

Begin at a shallow corner at the right side of the slab (the corner itself is Right Corner M (J.Talbot 1959). Step left as soon as possible onto the slab. Move up to the distinct hole, exiting up the slab above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

49. '''Proud Slab''' 7m D

The proud slab right of ''Right Corner''.

''Unknown Pre-1978'

===High Slab===
This is the steep slab set behind the climbs at south wall (visible in the photo). Currently slightly vegetated but good quality bold routes await those who are willing to give this piece of esoterica a go

50. '''Gardeners Question time''' 12m E2 *

Takes a slightly wondering line up the most compact and highest part of the slab . Start below a horizontal crack /notch. Find a way up to this, step left then take a rising line on micro cracks rightwards eventually reaching a small downward pointing tooth/flake in the upper part of the wall. From here tend slightly left to the top. Reasonable block belays. A good, technically demanding climb

''Chris Wyatt 7/7/2014''

===Ramp Zawn===
A narrow zawn whose left wall lies at about 40 degrees and whose right wall is composed of boulders. It is due north
from the Rock Island and has a steep slab at its back.

49. '''Cracked Slab''' 12m VD

Follow the crack in the slab.

''S.Jacques 00.00.1998''

51. '''Lucy Slab''' 12m VD

On the tidal island itself, climb the centre of the main face.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

52. '''Look-out Lucy''' 12m D

Climb the crack to the right of ''Lucy Slab''.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

Great Tor East

2015-09-19T21:32:01Z

Chris Wyatt: /* First Corner */

[[Image:Island from nr odins.jpg|right|thumb|800px|[[Great Tor East]]]]
[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[The Three Tors]]'''

'''GR SS '''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
''Obscenities'' is Non-tidal. The other routes 1½ to 3 hours either side of low water, increasing towards
the end of the section.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== PREAMBLE ==
Another pleasant area with many easy routes. Worthy of description, if only to help take some pressure off [[Three Cliffs]] and [[Little Tor]].

The cliffs are described moving landwards (left to right facing away from the sea) along the eastern
coastline of the [[Great Tor]] headland, which forms the west side of [[Three Cliffs]] Bay. Although the area is liberally
covered with rock a series of inlets and bays provide the main interest, the first encountered being ''Shallow Cut''.

== DESCENTS ==
Descents are by scrambling down various grooves in the area.

== THE ROUTES ==

===Shallow Cut===

About 25m right of the starting platform of ''East Ridge'' is a shallow recess with a chimney in the back.

1. '''Stefan Hermann And The Mothers Of Invention''' 10m HS,4a

Climb the chimney and subsequent corner forming the left side of the recess.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

2. '''Careless McGee '''10m HVD

Scramble up to the ledge half-way up the right corner of the recess and finish up the corner crack.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

3. '''Another Brixius In The Wall '''10m M

The right-hand arete of the recess.

D.Dilligence Pre-2003

===Deep Cut===

This distinctive gash lies below a prominent subsidiary ridge to the east of East Ridge. Climbing is only possible around low water.

4. '''Left Edge '''15m VD

The left edge of Deep Cut contains two corners. Follow the first over a bulge to a slabby finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

5. '''The Camille Wester Fan Club '''15m VS,4c

The right-hand corner.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

6. '''Chasm '''18m HVD

The right wall of Deep Cut contains a leftward rising ledge. Gain and follow this from the right of a bulge. Chimney up the back wall, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

7. '''Left Crack '''15m S *

Follow Chasm to the ledge, then take a short corner to a ledge. Choose from a cluster of cracks to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

8. '''Right Edge '''18m M

The right edge of Deep Cut.

J.Talbot 00.00.1960

9. '''Arcelor Bandit '''18m VD

The arete 3m right of Right Edge.

''D.Dilligence Pre-2003''

10. '''LEG And Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring '''18m D

The shallow corner immediately right of Arcelor Bandit.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

The next 2 routes lie above the beach level line of outcrops, in a conspicuous recess.

===Odin's Cave===
11. '''Obscenities '''12m E4 6b

The right wall and rib of the cave. Climb the rib, TR, 2PRs, to the roof. Pull through into the groove via very thin moves until a "thank God" hold can be reached. Continue direct to the top (a pre-placed rope belay is advisable).

''E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990''

Not actually in Odin's Cave, but on the broken slabs to the right is the following route:-

11a. '''Another Fine Mess''' 14m Severe

Take a line on the slabs to the right of the ''Obscenities''. Some loose rock here.

''Mark Winder, A. N. Other 27.04.2011''

===Odin's Wall===
[[Image:Odins topo.jpg|thumb|700px|'''Odin's Wall''']]
The most attractive of the crags lying on the west side of [[Three Cliffs|Three Cliffs Bay]], [[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]], is composed of the best Gower Limestone and provides a variety of well protected quality lines. It is the wall at right angles to the last few routes described, some 70m back from the headland. Accessible approximately 2½ hours either side of low tide.

12. '''Left Corner And Crack '''18m HVS,5a

The left end of the wall forms a corner. Climb this to a big ledge and follow the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

13. '''Cave Crack Direct '''20m VS,4b *

Follow ''Left Corner'' And Crack to the ledge. Traverse delicately right into a hollow and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

14. '''Cave Crack '''18m HS,4b

Follow ''Cave Crack Direct'' to the hollow, but finish up the diagonal crack on the right.

''R.Owen, D.Jones, A.Bevan 00.00.1959''

15. '''Direct '''21m VS,5a

Start at a recess to the right of a cave. Step over the pool to use the recess to gain the cracks above. Climb these with conviction, to a rest and an easier finish.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''
[[Image:Cave crack graffitti.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Alex on ''Cave Crack Direct'']]
[[Image:Chis beynon odins.jpg|right|thumb|500px|Chris Beyon on ''Flectl'', '''[[Great Tor East#Odin's Wall|Odin's Wall]]]]'''
16. '''Fiechtl '''18m S

A niche forms the start of the next pronounced crack to the right. Follow this until a horizontal break leads to a series of cracks forming the right side of the main wall.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

17. '''Wide Crack '''18m D

Start as for ''Fiechtl''. Climb the tricky wide crack, chimney and corner to the top.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. '''Happy Feet''' 17m S,4a

Start at the second barnacle covered crack to the right of ''Wide Crack'', climb to a small ledge then follow the obvious thin crack line to a second ledge, climb straight up the smoother slab to the top.

''C.Evans, P.Leeder 20.08.2014''

19. '''Pillar Crack '''15m D

The chimney right of ''Wide Crack'' often has a pool at its barnacle-ridden base. A preferable start lies 1m left, before joining the chimney at a ledge.

''R.Owen, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Girdle Traverse '''18m VS,4c

Start as for ''Fiechtl'' and continue leftwards at mid height to finish on the ledge of Left ''Corner and Crack''.

===Odin's Wall East Facet===

Slightly right and up from Odin's Wall lie a series of pillars and corners. The first pillar of note is called the Second Pillar.

====Second Pillar====

The first route here follows the obvious South East facing cracked corner at the top left of the bay.

20. '''Left Corner '''12m D

Follow the crack, with good jams past a bulge.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

21. '''South Wall '''12m D

From the base of the crack ''Left Corner'', step right and climb the narrow wall.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

22. '''East Edge '''15m D

Follow the arete to the right of ''South Wall'', taking care with the rock near the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

23. '''Wall And Corner '''15m VD

The wall just before ''Left Crack''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

24. '''Left Crack '''15m D

Set back from the last route is a gashed feature. Climb this.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

'''First Pillar'''

Is nothing more than a continuation of the rock.

25. '''South Face '''15m D

The steep juggy face just to the right of Left Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

26. '''Left Edge '''15m S

Take the arete with little in the way of protection.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

27. '''Left Pillar Direct '''15m VD

Takes the narrow east face of the ''First Pillar''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1960''

28. '''East Corner Crack '''16m D

A good line up the cracked corner, bounding the right side of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959''

The rest of this recessed bay can be climbed anywhere at less than Moderate standard. The cliff now becomes more broken. The next bay, 150m on is known as Third Corner, Which may house a route up some grooves on the left wall (''Living Wall'' HVS,5a, L.Cole, M.Condick 09.04.2002). The next area to be encountered, 100m past Third Bay houses a number of good lines.

==== First Pillar====

===Second Corner===

The left wall of the Second Corner is marked by a v-shaped nose at its centre. Left of this nose lie two corners.

29. '''Left Corner '''8m D

The left of the two corners.

''J.Talbot 1959''

30. '''Buttress '''8m M

The rock between Left Corner and Sharp Edge.

J.Talbot 1959)

31. '''Sharp Edge '''10m VD

Takes the short slab followed by the corner above, which provides good laybacking.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

32. '''The Nose '''10m HS,4a

Start in a hollow just right of the slab of Sharp Edge. Climb up left to a ledge on that route, before swinging right onto the nose which is taken to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

33. '''Quartz Slab '''10m VD

Attain the quartz flecked slab just right of The Nose. Follow this with help from the crack to the right, to a bulge. Surmount this to follow the edge above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

34. '''Right Block Buttress '''8m S

The wall right of Quartz Slab, is climbed by moving firstly a little right and then back into the centre of the wall to finish.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

===The South Wall===
This buttress forms the right face of the Second Corner. It is notable for the chimney that splits it.

35. '''Dr. Focke’s Pension Fund''' 7m HVS,5b

A problem up a vague groove in the left arete of the chimney recess.

''G.Ashmore 15.03.2003''

36. '''South Chimney And Slab''' 15m VD *

From the back of the chimney, back and footing gains a ledge, from where a crack leads to a steepening. Step up and left over this, to finish up the slab above. Entertaining.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

37. '''Left Arete''' 7m S,4c

Climb the slabby right face of the arete to the right. Delicate.

''J.Kerry, A. Randall 00.00.1970''

38. '''RIP Norman''' 7m D

Off to the right is a hole. Crawl in through this and climb the chimney above.

''L.Cole 16.03.2003''

39. '''Taste Of Spring Chicken''' 7m S

Off to the right is a platform. Follow the corner up from this and the crack above.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

40. '''Scary Cow Don’t Jump''' 7m E1,5c

Climb the arete from a small boulder.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

===Monty's Slab===
[[Image:First corner-a wall.jpg|right|700px|thumb|[[#Monty's Slab|Monty's Slab]] and [[#First Corner|First Corner]]]]
Just before the [[#First Corner|First Corner]] is reached you reach a small slabby zawn.

41. '''Master Bates Smear''' HVS,5b

Climb the slab direct.

''(LM.Condick, L.Cole 2002)''

42. ''' Monty's Slab''' HS,5a

Follow a vague crack diagonally left after a hard start.

''(J.Kerry, A.March 1971)''

===First Corner===
100 metres along the coast lies another bay of cliffs. The left wall leans gently and is full of cracks, the right wall being
composed of an hectic arrangement of pillars.

The gently leaning east wall contains a number of routes. Cherry grove is the corner on the left end of this wall.

43a '''Archies' chicken thievery''' 9m HVS, 5b *
The crack in the left of cherry grove with a tricky start . Turn the overhang to the left. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43b '''Cherry Grove''' 9m S, 4a *
The corner. Move right towartds the top

''Chris Wyatt 01.10.2015''

43c '''The Road to Azerbajan''' 9m E1, 5b *
The crack in the left of the wall with a tricky start and a fierce lay-back to finish. Sustained

''Chris Wyatt 01.07.2014''

44. '''Onion Crack (Weeping Crack)''' 9m VS,5a *

The last crack on the right end of the wall is the most obvious.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

''Block Corner'' D (J.Talbot 1959) bounds the right end of the leaning wall. Right of this is a pillar and a cave entrance.

45. '''Left Corner Block Wall''' 12m D

Ascend the groove on the left of the cave. At half-height, move right around a flake, then step back up left to a narrow corner and a conglomerate top out.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

A cave at its left-hand end is followed rightwards by a series of pillars of varying height, to another through cave and
a holed slab.

46. '''Block Wall''' 12m S,4a

Bridge the cave just right of ''Left Corner Block Wall''. Pull up into the crack above. From the crack an obvious foothold is used to cross the wall leftwards to a crack. Follow this to a small conglomerate overhang, then move right and up to the top.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

47. '''Central Pillar''' 13m HS,4b

A corner just right of the cave leads to a ledge beneath an arete. Swing left onto the face along a horizontal crack, to join ''Block Wall''.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

The corner right of ''Central Pillar'' is ''Stalactite'' HD (J.Talbot 1959), whose right arete is ''Commitment'' 4b (J.Talbot 1959).
Stepping down and right is a through cave with a slab to its right.

48. '''Hole Slab''' 8m D

Begin at a shallow corner at the right side of the slab (the corner itself is Right Corner M (J.Talbot 1959). Step left as soon as possible onto the slab. Move up to the distinct hole, exiting up the slab above.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

49. '''Proud Slab''' 7m D

The proud slab right of ''Right Corner''.

''Unknown Pre-1978'

===High Slab===
This is the steep slab set behind the climbs at south wall (visible in the photo). Currently slightly vegetated but good quality bold routes await those who are willing to give this piece of esoterica a go

50. '''Gardeners Question time''' 12m E2 *

Takes a slightly wondering line up the most compact and highest part of the slab . Start below a horizontal crack /notch. Find a way up to this, step left then take a rising line on micro cracks rightwards eventually reaching a small downward pointing tooth/flake in the upper part of the wall. From here tend slightly left to the top. Reasonable block belays. A good, technically demanding climb

''Chris Wyatt 7/7/2014''

===Ramp Zawn===
A narrow zawn whose left wall lies at about 40 degrees and whose right wall is composed of boulders. It is due north
from the Rock Island and has a steep slab at its back.

49. '''Cracked Slab''' 12m VD

Follow the crack in the slab.

''S.Jacques 00.00.1998''

51. '''Lucy Slab''' 12m VD

On the tidal island itself, climb the centre of the main face.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

52. '''Look-out Lucy''' 12m D

Climb the crack to the right of ''Lucy Slab''.

''L.Cole 07.03.2002''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:35:55Z

Chris Wyatt: /* PREAMBLE */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing buttress with a good sized level terrace at its foot.

== ACCESS ==
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4a. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4b '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the lower wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile''. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. At the break step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall.

8a. '''ThickHead''' 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

''A.Richardson 10.09.1985''

8b. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''.
A.Giles, etc 1986)

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:28:16Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4a. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4b '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the lower wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile''. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. At the break step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall.

8a. '''ThickHead''' 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

''A.Richardson 10.09.1985''

8b. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''.
A.Giles, etc 1986)

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:26:22Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4a. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4b '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the lower wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile''. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. At the break step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall

8a. '''ThickHead''' 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

''A.Richardson 10.09.1985''

8b. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''.
A.Giles, etc 1986)

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:24:46Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4a. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4b '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. Step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall

8a. '''ThickHead''' 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

''A.Richardson 10.09.1985''

8b. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''.
A.Giles, etc 1986)

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:23:59Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4.1 '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. Step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

The next 4 climbs all finish via a recess in the upper wall

8a. '''ThickHead''' 15m E2, 5c

The wall and crack left of Laissez Faire - paradoxically easier than the obvious line

''A.Richardson 10.09.1985''

8b. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a *

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''.
A.Giles, etc 1986)

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m HVS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge taking care with the rock on the left.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:13:03Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4.1 '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. Step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

8. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''. A slight left-hand start (''Thickhead'' E2,5c A.Richardson,
A.Giles, etc 1986) starts up the left-hand crack.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess. Contrived.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m VS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:12:18Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

4.1 '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block as a left handhold. Step right and Climb the wall above via a hidden jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

8. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''. A slight left-hand start (''Thickhead'' E2,5c A.Richardson,
A.Giles, etc 1986) starts up the left-hand crack.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess. Contrived.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m VS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:09:54Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

4.1 '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block on the left. Climb onto the wall above via a fantastic hidden flake jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

8. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''. A slight left-hand start (''Thickhead'' E2,5c A.Richardson,
A.Giles, etc 1986) starts up the left-hand crack.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess. Contrived.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m VS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Pennard And Graves End

2015-07-26T12:08:41Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Graves End Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''

'''[[Gower]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Lower Sea Cliffs 2½ hours either side of low water. All other crags are non-tidal

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard|Pennard]] is the sweep of white rocks that dominate the far east skyline on the eastern Gower, opposite Oxwich Bay to the west.

The rock is generally very good, but there are still some loose blocks on the less compact buttresses such as [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] and sections of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

There is a very good collection in the E1 to E3 range in the [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] to [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] section.

There are also some very good easier routes on the right-hand section of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]].

In contrast to most other areas on Gower the easier routes are quite steep, but with reassuringly large holds. The aspect is quite good (south to south-west facing), but the crags are exposed and can catch the wind. Before embarking on the extreme routes, consideration should be given to replacing the ancient thread runners.

For the uninitiated Pennard forms an armchair-like amphitheate above sea level. To the west, Pennard Buttress has a tall seaward facing wall which when followed rightwards (east) splits into two tiers separated by a grassy sloping terrace. High Pennard lies on the eastern side of the amphitheatre and recieves sunshine from mid-day.

In the centre of the amphitheatre is a scree slope, thickly covered by virtually every species of thorny plant native to the British Isles. A path of sorts traverses the scree slope close to the seaward edge and links Pennard Buttress to High Pennard. With an hour or so of dedicated clearance this path could be restored and passable, but at present it is much more comfortable to walk up and cross between the crags via the cliff top path.

Just east of Pennard and separated by only a narrow grassy gully is Graves End, which forms a seaward facing butress with a good sized level terrace at its foot. The climbs are steep here and so fortunately they do not possess the initial scramble up vegetated rock typical of Pennard.

== ACCESS ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
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Follow the offshoot of the B4436 to its end at the roundabout in Southgate. Park in the [http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales.htm National Trust] car park. Follow the narrow road east for about 1 mile to a valley running to the sea from '''Hunts Farm''' (GR564873) just before the road becomes a private road – there is a prominent wide shallow valley running down to the sea at this point. There are two possible approaches from here:

# '''[[Pennard]]''' - The first follows a path down the valley to the coastal footpath and heads east (left) along to the base of the cliffs.
# '''[[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]''' - A better, but not so obvious, approach is to follow the cliff top path past two huts on the left. Just past these a prominent rocky headland is seen (there is a small pond on the left - sometimes dry in summer). Go just past this headland and descend towards the sea. [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] is to your left (east) and [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]] is to your right (west).

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|The Great Pillar]]''' – as for either [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] approach, but follow the path below the [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]] cliffs for 100m.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Lower Sea Cliffs|Lower Sea Cliffs]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], then continue 100m further east along the coastal path, after passing in front of the great detached Tower to a smaller buttress, blocking off the profile of the coastline (Popty Ping). Under this is a smooth waterworn gully. Descend this to find the sea cliffs on the west (right when facing out to sea). A quicker approach is to gain [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] from the cliff top and drop down to Popty Ping area from the East.

'''[[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]]''' – as for [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard]] and [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]], but just east of [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Pillar|Great Pillar]] scramble up a gully to the west end of the higher buttress. Graves End East is the natural extension to the east of [[Graves End]] itself. Once familiar with the area, a better approach is by walking along the cliff top above [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End Wall|Graves End]] Sea Cliff is a very small buttress at sea level about 150m east of the end of [[Pennard And Graves End#Graves End East|Graves End East]], reached by scrambling down from the path at the end of the turf.

== DESCENTS ==
See individual crags.

== THE ROUTES ==

Topos have been produced for many of the routes at this crag.

http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=161

=== Pennard Buttress ===
GR567866

This is the steep, high pillar at the left-hand end of the main Pennard Section, with a prominent bulge and tats on its left-hand side. Further to the right, the crag becomes two-tiered. The upper wall is very compact with excellent rock and contains the majority of the E2-E3 climbing. The smaller lower crag that continues rightwards from the base of the main pillar is very solid, with some excellent short routes of various grades, particularly good in the HS-HVS, range. The obvious wall at the right-hand side of the valley is High Pennard.

The top part of the main pillar is quite loose and for some routes (like The Throb or 5 Years To Live), it is best to either arrange a hanging rope from the top of the crag, or take a disposable sling to ab off the spike at the end of the first pitches.

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by walking back from the top of the crag and following a path down the east side.

1. '''The Throb''' 30m E4,6a *

Probably E5 at the moment, given the state of the second TR, which is in dire need of replacement. It is normal to clip the first TR on Five Years To Live before embarking on the route. Start below a line of thin crozzly cracks below and left of a groove through the roofs. Follow these, TR, to a hard move to gain the base of the groove. Follow the slightly rickety groove to hit vegetation and wade up a further 15m to gain a spike belay (TR). Abseil off. It is also possible to step right from the top of the groove to finish up Arosfa.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 25.03.1984''

2. '''Five Years To Live''' 30m E5,6b *

A near-sports route, with some interesting and complicated moves on steep ground. It used to sport a BR, but a good TR has been substituted, albeit one that could do with replacing. Start under the obvious bulge and move up to a TR in a line of pockets. Cross the bulge rightwards,TR to a PR on the arete. Climb the arete to a break, stand up, and shuffle up to the top of the groove. Scramble up to a rock spike belay. Scramble off left, with protection from the rock spike, or leave a sling on the spike (back up advised). Abseil.

''M.Crocker 04.09.1988''

3. '''Arosfa''' 45m E4,6b,5a *

The first PR on P1 has recently been glued back in. As a result it is no longer possible to use the good pocket, making the route considerably harder.

# 30m Start right of Five Years To Live at a groove, with an obvious capping overhang at 15m. Climb easily up to the groove, then make a thoroughly desperate series of moves before continuing easily up to the roof, very poor PR. Turn the roof on the right. Follow a crack up ‘rocking’ ground to reach a ledge. Belay in the corner, TR.
# 12m Turn the large overhangs above on the left and continue up the wall, PR, to join and finish up Alpha.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths – Tin Tack 00.00.1968
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03.12.1983''

4. '''Alpha''' 36m HVS,4c,5a

Start at the foot of the buttress just right of ''Arosfa'', below an overhang-capped corner. Attempting this route whilst birds are nesting is highly inadvisable. Watch out for snakes as well!
# 18m Climb a rib to the corner, turn the overhang on the right and follow a rib to the upper of two ledges. It is also possible to turn the overhang on its left.
# 18m Traverse right for 5m and climb the wall steeply to a groove, which leads to the impressive square-cut corner and the top. It is recommended that the location of the finishing corner is worked out before embarking on the route – it is the prominent square groove left of Tom Tom.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

The crag is now much shorter.

5.''' Beta''' 16m VD

Start at the foot of the wide crack right of ''Alpha'', which separates the main buttress from the lower wall. Climb it to a niche below a bulge, move right and continue to ledges.

''Harold Insley,etc 1958/9''

6. '''Unnamed''' 14m E1,5a

The wall between ''Beta'' and ''Beta Plus'' can be climbed, but is rather loose and poorly protected.

''Unknown Pre-1998''

7. '''Beta Plus''' 14m HS,4b

The corner 4m right of ''Beta'', past a new PR. Turn the overhang on its left or right.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.06.1966''

8. '''Hun''' 14m VS,4b

Climb the arete right of ''Beta Plus'', joining that route at the top. Contrived.

''D.Thomas 00.00.1996''

9. '''Knucklefluster''' 11m E2,5c *

A technical pitch up the wall just right of ''Beta Plus''. Climb the wall until a move rightwards gains a good hold, TR, then move steeply to the break. Step left and finish up ''Beta Plus'' or over the roof.

''A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984''

10. '''Knuckleduster''' 11m E3,6a

A bold but poor eliminate squeezed in between ''Knucklefluster'' and ''Gamma Minus''. Climb the wall and overhang
directly, PR. A side runner is used at this grade.

''A.Long 00.00.1989''

11. '''Gamma Minus''' 12m E1,5b

This climbs the prominent corner right of ''Knucklefluster''. At the roof, move right onto the arete and follow this to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.00.1967''

12. '''Kiwis Can’t Climb''' 12m E1,5c

A contrived route taking the left arete of ''Gamma''. Where ''Gamma'' moves left, step right and pull over the roof.

''Unknown 00.00.1984''

13. '''Gamma''' 12m HVS,5b *

A well protected and exciting little pitch. Start up the next left facing corner, stepping leftwards to reach good holds. At the roof, cut through it rightwards into a short, sharp and bottomless left facing corner.

''E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths 00.06.1966''

14. '''Trundleweed''' 12m E1,5b

Climb the rib and short groove 1m right of ''Gamma''.

''P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 31.05.1987''

15. '''Delta''' 13m S,4b

The steep and delicate groove right of ''Gamma''.

''M.Hogge, J.Birch 00.00.1967''

16. '''Delta Minus''' 12m D

Takes the next obvious leftward-slanting break.

''SUMC 00.00.1966''

17. '''Flaked Ivy Chimney''' 12m VD

The steep chimney just right of ''Delta Minus''.

''C.Shorrock solo 21.09.1996''

18. '''Vandal''' 9m S

A direct line up the short steep wall just right again.

''J.Brailsford et al Pre-1960''

19. '''Girdle Traverse''' 53m HVS, 5a,4c,4b *

A right to left girdle of the lower wall.

# 18m Start as for ''Delta Minus''. Climb into the overhung corner of ''Gamma'' and make delicate moves to the arete. Enter the corner to the left and traverse below the overhang to a ledge on ''Beta Plus''.
# 14m Descend leftwards to below a bulge, then move up to the foot of the corner of ''Alpha''.
# 21m Traverse 3m under overhangs before pulling onto the wall above. Continue left across two grooves before stepping down onto a grass ledge and belay in the gully.

''J.Williams, P.Kokelaar 00.00.1967''

Directly above the lower wall is an impressive sheet of white rock which forms the right flank of [[Pennard And Graves End#Pennard Buttress|Pennard Buttress]].

20. '''Tom Tom''' 24m E2,5c

Start below the prominent square-cut corner from the small bush below the centre of the blank sheet of rock, high on the left side of the buttress (''Alpha'' P2). Gain the vague hollow, move leftward towards a prominent thread (good rest). Climb up to the corner, then climb its right wall and arete.

''P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1988''

21. '''Dan Dare''' 21m E2,5c **

Enjoyable, sustained and well protected - the route of the buttress. Start as for ''Tom Tom''. Gain the vague hollow and move right to the foot of a scoop, follow this with superb small wires to a sharp rock spike (thin tape runner) and the break. Traverse left to an open groove and follow this to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982''

22. '''Desperate Dan''' 26m E3,5c **

A good sustained extension to ''Dan Dare''. As for ''Dan Dare'' to the break. Move right to below an obvious undercut
flake. Gain this with difficulty and move up the groove to finish. Hard work.

''J.Bullock, G.Royle 07.08.1984''

23. '''White Feather''' 21m E4,6a

A strenuous but contrived start with a slightly better finishing groove. Just left of ''Timorous Tarzan'' is a steep crack. Follow this, with feet on ''Timorous Tarzan'', TR, to the break and a small roof just before the final groove. The final groove is protected by 2PRs. The first is situated 1m above the break, and to the right of the groove. The second is hidden in the groove itself. An Alternative finish (E3) joins ''Desperate Dan'' at the break.

''A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

24. '''Timorous Tarzan''' 36m E1,5a

This climbs the calcite-encrusted layback crack on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to its finish, then traverse right on loose-looking holds to an obvious groove. Climb this to the top.

''P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

25. '''Timorous Tarzan True Finish''' 32m E2,5c

Climb the wall above the layback crack and clip the second PR on ''White Feather''.

''J.Harwood 1pt 28.05.1986
FFA A.Sharp, O.Jones 00.00.1986''

26. '''Bald Eagle''' 24m E4,6a

Climb the rib right of ''Timorous Tarzan'', then step left and climb the groove of ''White Feather''.
''
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.04.1984''

27. '''Gull Way''' 24m VS,4b

Takes the obvious steep corner, finishing as for ''Timorous Tarzan''.

''G.Evans, G.Richardson 00.00.1981''

In the right side of the steep wall, right of the wide central groove, are two holes in a broken crackline.

28. '''Digby''' 22m E2,5b

Start below the holes and follow the crack to a ledge. From the right-hand end of this climb straight up, 2TRs, to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 06.05.1982, J.Bullock, G.Evans – Direct 00.08.1987''

The broken crack containing the holes provides a poor climb at VS,4b
''(Unknown Pre-1991)''

=== High Pennard ===
GR568866

'''DESCENTS:''' Descent is by scrambling down a gully on the west of the crag.

This is the obvious gently bulging buttress at the other side of the valley from Pennard buttress. It does still contain some wobbly blocks, so caution is advised. There are some excellent routes in the E1 to E3 range, making it a good companion to the upper right-hand section of Pennard Buttress. Skive is a must.

1. '''Left Edge''' 24m E1,5b

A slightly loose route up the pillar that bounds the cliff on the left side. Climb the left side of the pillar for 3m, then traverse right to a hole. Move up left past a PR and move right to a corner leading to the top.

''E.Pardoe, D.Barker 00.00.1968''

2. '''Blood First''' 24m E3,5c

Climb direct to the hole on Left Edge, then climb past it trending slightly right, PR, until it is possible to step right into the corner groove of Loony Left.

''E.Kellar, P.Nicholas 00.00.1989''

3. '''Loony Left''' 24m E2,5c/6a *

Start beneath the widest part of the half height roof. Climb past ivy to a resting spot under the right side of the roof. Using undercuts, do your best to find protection (a friend 1.5 may be helpful). Move up to the centre of the roof by technical moves and pull over it strenuously. Amble up the left facing corner then step right to avoid the obtrusive hawthorn guarding the cliff top.

''J.Bullock, L.Cain 07.06.1987''

4. '''Sudan''' 24m E2,5c *

Start at the base of the pillar which forms the vague arete of the crag. Climb up and right to the overhang under
the nose of the front of the pillar. Take the thin crack left of the nose, hard but reasonably well protected crux, then move right onto the pillar. Continue directly and boldly to the top.

''R.Leigh, T.Smith A0 00.00.1966 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980''

5. '''Wandering Star''' 24m E1,5c

An indefinite line attempting to climb the shallow hanging groove right of ''Sudan''. Start just right of ''Sudan'' and climb to the break, move right and attempt to gain the groove with a brief excursion into Skive. Finish over the roof between Skive and its direct finish.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987''

6. '''Skive''' 24m HVS,5a ***

A great route. Start 3m right of ''Sudan'' at the base of the obvious groove which splits the crag. Climb the obvious crack through two roofs. At the third, traverse left for 3m and climb deteriorating rock to the top.

''R.Griffiths, E.Pardoe 00.11.1966''

7. '''Skive Direct''' 24m E1,5b ***

A more logical finish. At the third roof finish directly up the final groove of ''Shogun''.

''R.Griffiths, J.Bayliss 00.06.1967''

8.''' Shogun''' 24m E3,6a **

A route requiring a certain amount of inner self to surmount the roof. Climb direct to the obvious weakness in the overlap just right of Skive and surmount it. Move left and climb a vague arete to reach Skive at the horizontal break. Finish up the groove above, taking care with the rock. The grade assumes that the low PR is not in situ (as on the first ascent).

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 15.09.1982''

9. '''King Rat''' 24m E3,6a *

A directissima giving good climbing. Follow ''Shogun'' over its roof to a horizontal slot in a small overlap, climb the wall direct, TR, to the horizontal break. Continue directly by a hidden layback flake, finish directly, PR.

''A.Richardson, A.Long 00.00.1987''

10. '''Samurai''' 24m E3,6a ***

The best route at Pennard. Follow ''Shogun'' over the roof to the horizontal slot as for King Rat, then step right to a shallow groove. Climb this past a small overhang, PR. Continue directly to the top.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran 02.07.1986''

11. '''Kensai''' 27m E3,5c

Start directly below the upper groove of ''Phreatic Line''. The initial groove is very serious. Climb to an obvious rightward-curving overhang and follow it to a junction with ''Phreatic Line'', below the layback groove. Pull straight over via a finger crack then step right into the ''Seepage'' groove. Finish leftwards via a curving crack under the capping overhang.

''J.Bullock, L.Moran, G.Evans 30.08.1986''

12. '''Kensai/Phraetic Line Combination''' 24m E3,5c **

Climb Kensai to join Phreatic line.

''J.Bullock 00.08.1986''

13. '''Phreatic Line''' 24m E3,5c *

Takes the layback groove in the upper wall right of ''Samurai''. Start at the right side of the crag below a pillar. Climb the groove bounding the left side of the pillar to a big square ledge. Move up to the overlap and the TR of Seepage. Traverse left for 5m and pull up to gain the base of the layback flake which is followed to the top.

''E.Pardoe 1pt 00.00.1968 FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980, G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

14. '''Seepage''' 24m E1,5b

From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', climb the wall direct to the strip roof. Stretch left to clip an old TR, and back it up with a small wire. Step left for a further 2m and then pull easly over the roof at a thin crack. Follow the groove above until a step right onto the wall allows the capping overhang to be bypassed.

''E.Pardoe, C.Knight'' 00.00.1969

15. '''Noble House''' 24m E1,5b

Climbs the loose groove and upper wall right of ''Seepage''. From the square ledge on ''Phreatic Line'', go diagonally
right to cross and gain the top of a shattered groove. Move onto a wall above the overhang, step left and climb
to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 07.11.1982''

16. '''The Amazing Bugblatter Beast Of Zarg''' 36m E3,6a *

A good right to left traverse. The route originally finished up Left Edge after a belay in Skive, but the finish described makes for a better route. Follow Seepage to the overlap and climb left along the obvious break, via a devious crux to finish up the groove of Skive.

''A.Richardson, N.Gyerke 00.00.1987 G.Ashmore, I.Fisher ALCH 24.04.1999''

To the right the cliffs deteriorate and although lines have been recorded in the past, they have now collapsed.

=== The Great Tower ===
[[Image:popty ping.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''Popty Ping'' Area]]

'''GR569866'''

'''DESCENTS''': Scramble down the gully to the east of the tower.

This is the obvious pillar right of [[Pennard And Graves End#High Pennard|High Pennard]]. Take care with the rock.

1. '''South East Chimney''' 15m D

An unpleasant climb. Climb a short wall, then move up right into a deep gully. Climb this, very unpleasant and
vegetated, then left to the top.

''Harold Insley, etc.1958/9''

2. '''Triattsdyffi''' 18m E1,5b

A well-positioned but friable route up the left side of the face. Start below and slightly right of the obvious crack at 6m. Climb the wall and crack. From the top of the crack make a hard move up and left onto the edge. Follow the wide crack above to the top.

''E.Pardoe, R.Leigh 00.00.1967''
[[Image:Gt Tower Top Brass Area.jpg|400px|thumb|right|[[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] and ''Top Brass'' Area]]

3. '''South East Edge''' 18m E1,5b

High on the right side of the tower is a clean crack. Climb the right edge of the wall, just left of the ivy, to a corner level with the bottom of the crack. Traverse left onto the face and up to a good ledge. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/59 J.Talbot - Direct A0 00.00.1968 FFA J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1981''

4. '''Don’s Quiet Corner''' 24m E4,6a

Climbs the east pillar. Climb the centre of the steepening lower slab to an incipient break. Keeping between the crack on the left and the groove on the right, climb straight up the rib to a poor break. Pull onto a ledge and finish direct, taking care not to disturb Mr.Whitelock’s remains.

''M.Crocker, G.Lynch 15.04.2000''

To the right of the descent gully at the East of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crag runs inland. It decreases in height as the ground rises towards its right hand end. There is quite a lot of ivy and rock samphire growing on the rock which gives the crag a scruffy appearance but the rock is generally sound and gives good steep wall climbing. The usual care needs to be taken at the top of the climbs. The safest descent is to the right of the crag.

'''Crack and Scoop''' HVS 5a

5m Right of the gully right of the [[Pennard And Graves End#The Great Tower|Great Tower]] a crack in the steep wall leads to a scoop.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

'''Top Brass''' VS 4c

2m right of Crack and Scoop is a flat slab of rock on the ground. Climb the wall above between ivy to the left and a samphire choked crack to the right. At half height tackle a bulge just left of a small overhang to gain a groove which leads to the top.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

The next headland East of the Great Tower lies immediately above the Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs. The buttress consists mostly of dangerously loose rock. However a crack line on the East face of the buttress gives an excellent climb on sound rock.

'''Popty Ping''' E1 5c **

The crack gives a steep, well protected climb with the crux low down.

''Jon Roberts Nick Smith 01/08/08''

=== Pennard Lower Sea Cliffs ===
'''GR569864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Scramble down the east of the crag.

These routes take various lines on the short recessed wall above a platform, which is exposed except at high tide. The left-hand reddish diedre is taken by ''Red Corner''.

1. '''Red Wall''' 8m HVS,5a

The wall left of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

2. '''Red Corner''' 8m VS,4b

The red diedre on the left of the crag.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

3. '''Tor Wall''' 8m VS,4c

The upper wall right of Red Corner, gained from Deep Crack.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

4. '''Deep Crack''' 8m S

The corner crack right of Red Corner.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

5. '''Cave And Wall''' 8m HVS,4c

The centre of the recessed wall right of Deep Crack is poorly protected.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

6. '''Scoop''' 8m S,4b

The scoop bounding the recessed wall on the right.

''J.Talbot 00.00.1967''

7. '''Great Block''' 8m VS,5a *

The block bounding the buttress on its right has a tough problem start.

''J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1967''

=== Graves End Wall ===
'''GR 570 864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points

To the east of The [[Pennard_And_Graves_End#The_Great_Tower|Great Tower]], looking up the grassy gully, is a short wall with a larger wall on the terrace above. It has an obvious horizontal break at about 4m, with the upper wall bulging gently. The climbs are described relative to a small cave at the bottom left-hand side of the main face.

1. '''Over Easy''' 13m S,4a *

The wall and groove 3m right of the small cave.

''M.Danford, G.Richardson 00.00.1978''

2. '''Too Late''' 13m S

The wall and broken crack 3m right of ''Over Easy''.

''G.Richardson, M.Danford 17.02.1983''

3. '''Marguerite''' 13m VD

The obvious broken crack 9m right of the small cave.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''

4. '''Vertical Smile''' 13m VS,4c *

A popular route. Start just right of ''Marguerite''. Climb the wall to a ledge, traverse right and follow a groove to the top.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1981''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

4.1 '''Vertical frown''' 13m E1 5b

Takes the wall directly below the crack of vertical smile then step left at the break and climb the wall above on flakes/cracks
incorporates the direct start to vertical smile

''C Wyatt, Hash Popat 00.00.2010''
''N.Low, M.Low - Direct 00.00.1987''

5. '''Helter Skelter''' 13m E2,5c *

Climb the wall below the top crack of ''Vertical Smile'', to a small ledge. There are two lines - this one takes a protruding angular block on the left. Climb onto the wall above via a fantastic hidden flake jug and continue up the wall above.

''H.Jones A.Healy 24.04.1984''

6. '''Sun Fix''' 15m E3,6a

A nice pitch up the cracks in the wall 5m right of ''Helter Skelter''. Climb through the roofs, step right at the break and climb directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

7. '''Toetector''' 15m HVS,5a

Start 2m right of ''Sun Fix'', where there is a thin crack with block overhangs at 4m. Climb to and through the
overhangs and move right onto a flake. Finish with an awkward move left from the top of the flake.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1978''

8. '''Laissez Faire''' 15m E3,6a

The strenuous curving crack 6m right of ''Toetector''. A slight left-hand start (''Thickhead'' E2,5c A.Richardson,
A.Giles, etc 1986) starts up the left-hand crack.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

9. '''Fever Pitch''' 15m E3,5c

Climb the wall and bulge between ''Laissez-Faire'' and TR1 to a break, then climb the bulging wall above to join
TR1 at the recess. Contrived.

''A.Long, A.Richardson 00.00.1991''

10. '''TR1''' 15m E2,5c *

Start 3m right of ''Laissez Faire'' at a corner capped by a triangular block overhang. Climb the corner and overhang onto the obvious break, step left and up into a small recess and then direct to the top.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans, G.Richardson 26.05.1982''

11. '''Drakensburg''' 50m E2,5b

A girdle starting up TR1 and finishing up ''Vertical Smile''. Stances can be taken en route.

''J.Brown, D.Nolan 00.00.1995''

12. '''Mental Floss''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the steep wall 2m right of TR1 to the break, move right and finish directly up the wall.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

13. '''Solar''' 15m E4,6a *

Climb the shallow corner 4m right of TR1, then the pocketed wall and scoop above.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 10.09.1985''

2m right of Solar the wall is recessed with an obvious flake up on the left and a jammed block high on the right.

14. '''Left Corner''' 13m VS,4c

The initial steep wall leads to a wide crack defining the flake.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

[[image:Gravesend right corner.jpg|350px|thumb|Tim B. on ''Right Corner'']]

15. '''Brave Face''' 13m E5,6a

The wall between Left and Right Corner.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

16. '''Right Corner''' 13m HS,4b

The steep corner right of the recess leads to a half-height ledge. Follow the crack in the wall above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

17. '''Thorium''' 13m HVS,5b

A right-hand start to Right Corner.

''J.Kerry 00.00.1971''

18. '''Sunflower''' 13m E4,6a

The wall between ''Right Corner'' and ''Left Pillar'', with a slightly unstable lower section. RPs in the crack above the ledge prevent a ground fall, but a fall before the TR will result in sore ankles!

''J.Brown, A.Berry 00.00.1995''

19. '''Left Pillar''' 16m VS,4b

Climb the pillar left of the cave via the steep groove. Finish rightwards above the cave.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

20. '''Kamin''' 13m VS,5a *

A popular problem. Climb out of the back of the cave. Finish direct from the ledge.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1958''

21. '''Friendly''' 13m HVS,5a

The wall right of ''Kamin''.

''C.Squires 00.00.1995''

22. '''Chameleon''' 13m HVS,5a

Ascend broken groove to the right of pink square cut groove (right of Kamin cave). From large ledge at approx half height, swing left round the arête of Neatfeet and go direct up head wall. (This may share some ground with Friendly)

''I.Goudge, J.Gallagher 22.07.2013''

23. '''Neatfeet''' 12m E4,5c

The arete above and right of ''Kamin''.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

24. '''Chasm''' 13m D

A useful descent route just right of the cave.

''Harold Insley etc. 1958/9''

25. '''Gower Gully Joke''' 7m E5,6a 􀁷

Climb the overhanging crack in the right wall of the ''Chasm'' gully.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000''

26. '''Crevice''' 9m S,4b

Climb the smooth crack right of ''Gower Gully Joke''.

''H.Insley etc. 1958/9''

The short wall to the right of ''Crevice'' has a crack and two wide corner cracks.

27. '''Ivy Saviour''' 8m VS,5a

The first crack.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

28. '''Cycle Track''' 8m VS,4c

The wide corner crack.

''G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974''

29. '''Monkey''' 8m HS,4b

The next corner.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

Further to the right is an easy descent, followed by a long smooth wall, which boasts excellent pocketed limestone.

30. '''Miguel''' 9m E3,6b

Fight up the thin cracks 6m right of ''Monkey'', taking care with the protection.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About one-third of the way along the wall is an obvious shallow groove (Sunny Surprise).

31. '''All Too Distant''' 9m HVS,5a

Start about 5m left of the groove above a small rock step and directly below the end of the small grass ledge near the top of the crag. Climb the wall on incuts and pockets, TR.

''P.Donnithorne solo 30.12.1988''

32. '''Commit''' 12m E1,5c

The smooth groove immediately right of ''All To Distant'', keeping left of the crack at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

33. '''Sunny Surprise''' 12m E2,5c

As for Commit, but take the crack up right at 5m.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

34. '''Eduoardo''' 12m E3,6b

Start below the obvious tiny overlap at half-height below a short step in the path about 2m right of Sunny Surprise. Climb to the overlap and good pockets. Move right and finish direct.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

About 2m right of Eduoardo is an obvious capped groove (''Slow Worm'').

35. '''The Hideaway''' 12m E3,6a

Climb the wall just left of the groove, PR missing.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 30.12.1988''

36. '''Slow Worm''' 12m VS,4c

Climb the groove to the capping overlap. Pull over this on its right and finish direct.

''N.Ashcroft, P.Donnithorne 30.12.1988''

37. '''Sweet, Sweet, Sweet''' 12m E3,5c

Right of Slow Worm is a small cave at the base of the cliff. Climb the flake-like feature just left of the cave, TR.

''P.Donnithorne, N.Ashcroft 29.12.1988''

The ivy covered groove to the right marks the start of Graves End East.

=== Gravesend East ===
'''GR572864'''

'''DESCENTS:''' Down gullies at various points.

This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arete.

1. '''Baboon Traverse''' 27m VS,4c

An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

''N.Williams 00.00.1980''

2. '''Cornel''' 15m VS,4b

This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1977''

To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

3. '''Clapham Common''' 18m E4,6a

The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

4. '''Nettlebed''' 15m E1,5b

The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

''K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974''

5. '''Restful''' 15m E3,5c

To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to
reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986''

6. '''Ass Over Tit''' 18m E4,6a

The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

''M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000''

7. '''The Toboganning Incident''' 18m E4,6b *

The left curling crack immediately left of the arete right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000''

206 Gower Gower & SE Wales
Pennard And Graves End

8. '''Little ‘Un''' 15m VS,4c

The last corner groove on the buttress.

''G.Evans 00.00.1980''

To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.

9. '''Where Will It All End?''' 12m E3,5c

The arete of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.

10. '''Marmite''' 15m VS,4c *

Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of
the second pillar.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977''

11. '''Taipan''' 15m E1,5b

A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982''

12. '''Graves End Arete''' 15m E4,6a

An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arete of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arete directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

''M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989''

13. '''Coffin Crack''' 15m VS,5a *

This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

''J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977''

14. '''Cleansing Agent''' 12m VS,4c

The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up
the groove above.

''G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978''

15. '''Marmolata''' 13m VS,4c

Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

16. '''Dial M for Merthyr''' 13m E3,5c

The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

''J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.''

17. '''Breakout''' 13m HVS,5b *

The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS.
Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower.
Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

''N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979''

18. '''A Grave End''' 15m E5,6a *

The blunt white arete immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the
arete, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arete. Watch out for the block in the evemt of a fall.

M.Crocker 19.03.2000

19. '''Overlapping Wall''' 12m VS

Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

''J.White 16.04.1983''

20. '''White Wall''' 12m VD

Scramble up the front of the pillar.

''J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959''

21. '''The End of the Affair?''' 14m MS

Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominant skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

''Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009''

[[Image:Grave_end_1.jpg|400px|thumb|right|''The End of the Affair'' Area]]

=== Gravesend Sea Cliff ===

Below and 150m east of Graves End East is a small sea level promontory with a recess on its east side. It is easily identified by the arete of Greystone, which has a thin flake on its landward side.

20. '''Greystone''' 7m E2,5c

The east facing arete of the promontory.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwoood 25.03.2000''

21. '''Unnamed I''' 7m D

The corner crack to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

22. '''Unnamed II''' 7m VD

The arete to to the right.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

23. '''Unnamed III''' 7m VS,4b

The arete right again.

''Unknown Pre-2000''

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:49:26Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Left Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

The first bolts on this crag are generally quite high - You may want to bring a clip stick bring a clip stick!

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#'''Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b''' Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
#'''Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c''' The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#'''Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+''' A good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, BB. Follow the sustained headwall to a newer BB (the old one was on a losse block) BB. 28m 
#'''Stuck On You - Fr 6c+''' Follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on hidden jugs. It probably wont collapse. Pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#'''The Minchkins - Fr. 6c''' The next line through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#'''Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b''' * Apleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. 25m 
#'''Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5''' Up the right-hand side of the pillar. 15m Currenly only has a single loweroff 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:48:30Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Left Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

The first bolts on this crag are generally quite high - You may want to bring a clip stick bring a clip stick!

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
#'''Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c''' The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#'''Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+''' A good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, BB. Follow the sustained headwall to a newer BB (the old one was on a losse block) BB. 28m 
#'''Stuck On You - Fr 6c+''' Follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on hidden jugs. It probably wont collapse. Pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#'''The Minchkins - Fr. 6c''' The next line through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#'''Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b''' * Apleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. 25m 
#'''Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5''' Up the right-hand side of the pillar. 15m Currenly only has a single loweroff 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:48:03Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Preamble */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

The first bolts on this crag are generally quite high - You may want to bring a clip stick bring a clip stick!

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#'''Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+''' A good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, BB. Follow the sustained headwall to a newer BB (the old one was on a losse block) BB. 28m 
#'''Stuck On You - Fr 6c+''' Follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on hidden jugs. It probably wont collapse. Pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#'''The Minchkins - Fr. 6c''' The next line through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#'''Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b''' * Apleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. 25m 
#'''Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5''' Up the right-hand side of the pillar. 15m Currenly only has a single loweroff 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:44:53Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Right Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#'''Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+''' A good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, BB. Follow the sustained headwall to a newer BB (the old one was on a losse block) BB. 28m 
#'''Stuck On You - Fr 6c+''' Follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on hidden jugs. It probably wont collapse. Pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#'''The Minchkins - Fr. 6c''' The next line through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#'''Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b''' * Apleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. 25m 
#'''Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5''' Up the right-hand side of the pillar. 15m Currenly only has a single loweroff 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:43:29Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Right Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+ A good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, BB. Follow the sustained headwall to a newer BB (the old one was on a losse block) BB. 28m 
#Stuck On You - Fr 6c Follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on hidden jugs. It probably wont collapse. Pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#The Minchkins - Fr. 6c The next line through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b * Apleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. 25m 
#Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5 Up the right-hand side of the pillar. 15m Currenly only has a single loweroff 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-06-03T20:35:42Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Left Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c The wall to the right of the rib. 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#<del>Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+ *</del> Used to be another good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Used to start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, TR. Follow the sustained headwall to a BB. 28m 
#<del>Stuck On You - E4,6a</del> A poor route that used to follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on greasy hidden jugs with a growing sense of panic, to pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#<del>The Minchkins - Fr. 6c</del> Used to be marginally better (but still not particularly nice) up to and through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#<del>Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b *</del> Used to be pleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,it used to wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. Might be restored? 25m 
#<del>Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5</del> Used to go up the right-hand side of the pillar. Might be restored? 15m 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Minchen Hole

2015-05-31T19:08:25Z

Chris Wyatt: /* Left Wall */

[[Category: Gower]]
[[Image:Minchin01.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Will Calvert on ''The Raven''. Photograph: Alan Rosier.]]
Topo available '''[http://{{servername}}/g_book/dloads/minchin_hole.pdf Minchin Hole]'''

'''GR: SS 554 869'''

== Preamble ==
This huge non-tidal zawn and cave resembles a roofless gothic cathedral. Access has recently been negotiated only for the routes shown in bold type below. (This may be out of date as in 2014 the local NT have expressed no objections to '''SOME''' of the former routes that were de-equipped being restored particularly if on the outer sea walls of the zawn and not up the conglomerate features) Please do not disturb the loose rock formations inside or outside of the cave and refrain from vegetation clearance. More info from the BMC here... http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=963

== Approach ==
Park in the NT car park at Southgate (see [[Foxhole|Fox Hole Cove]] for details). On foot, follow the cliff top road running east from
the car park. Follow this road, then strike out southwards towards the highest mound in the local area at the top of the
third gully along. Follow a footpath down the west side of the mound, to meet the path running along the cliffs above
high tide level. Follow this path eastwards (left) for 200m, to arrive at the (very) obvious entrance to [[Minchin Hole]].
Scramble across the gully (do not enter the cave) and scramble out to the far side to reach [[Marble Arch]] after 100m
and [[Bowen's Parlour]] and [[Spring Zawn]] further on.

== Routes ==
The following routes are on the west wall of [[Minchin Hole]], well above the floor of the cave, starting from
a grassy terrace.

===Left Wall===
#Fringe Benefits - Fr. 6b Used to take the leftmost line on the wall. Might be restored? 10m. 
#'''Beyond The Fringe - Fr. 6b *''' The wall to the right of the shallow corner, passing the huge sand and breccia concretion at the start. 10m. 
#'''Triple Sigh - Fr. 6b+''' The rib to the right of the corner. 10m. 
#<del>Swim With The Sharks - Fr6c **</del> Used to take the wall to the right of the rib.May be restored? 15m. 
#'''Jump The Sun Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' Best at the crag. Start lower down than the previous routes below a series of overlapping roofs. Climb to these, pull over the roof to a good hold and finish leftwards on hidden buckets. 15 m. [[Image:Minchin02.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Alan Rosier on ''Jump The Sun''. Photograph: Steve Warrington]]
#'''Crawling King Snake - Fr. 7a+ / 7b''' The large arete to the right of ''Jump The Sun'' on on glued holds direct to an awkward finish. 25m ''To the right of the arete is a big slab.'' 
#<del>The Dove From Above - Fr. 6a+ *</del> Used to take the left-hand line on the slab. Might be restored? 28m 
#<del>Blight At The End Of The Funnel - Fr. 5+</del> Used to take the right-hand line on the slab, passing a conglomerate ‘Bees Nest’. 28m 

===Right Wall===
''On the east wall, working from left to right are the following routes.''
#'''Kestrel - Fr. 7c''' A hard start leads to a loose section (which has shed lots of rock recently) and then a reasonable finish. 28m 
#'''The Raven - Fr. 7a / 7a+ ***''' A much sought after line. Improbably steep but with improbably large holds, until the very end... 28m 
#<del>Voice From The Pulpit - Fr. 7a+ *</del> Used to be another good route, unfortunately marred by the huge ledge at half-height. Used to start right of a left facing corner, at a smooth wall below some conglomerate overhangs. Make desperate moves up the lower wall, and through the unnerving conglomerate band to land on the ledge, TR. Follow the sustained headwall to a BB. 28m 
#<del>Stuck On You - E4,6a</del> A poor route that used to follow the wall to the right of ''Voice Of The Pulpit'' and pull through the loose conglomerate on greasy hidden jugs with a growing sense of panic, to pull out onto a ledge. Scramble up poor conglomerate behind to a BB hidden in a gully. 15m 
#<del>The Minchkins - Fr. 6c</del> Used to be marginally better (but still not particularly nice) up to and through the conglomerate band. 17m 
#<del>Gary’s Talking Climbs - Fr. 6b *</del> Used to be pleasant route following the pillar of rock, right of the conglomerate overhangs. At the top of the pillar,it used to wander carefully up on conglomerate jugs to the lower off. Might be restored? 25m 
#<del>Pinch A Minch - Fr. 5</del> Used to go up the right-hand side of the pillar. Might be restored? 15m 

[[Image:minchincanoe.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|Minchin Hole]]

== First Ascents ==


LEFT WALL

#R. Thomas 04.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 04.05.1998'''
#'''R. Thomas 14.05.1998'''
#R. Thomas 10.05.1998
#'''R. Thomas 01.09.1998'''
#'''G. Gibson 00.00.1999'''
#R. Thomas 09.07.1998
#R.Thomas 08.06.1998

RIGHT WALL

#'''Tadas'''
#'''G.Gibson 25.05.1998'''
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998
#G.Gibson 00.05.1998

Talk:Minchen Hole

2015-05-31T19:05:17Z

Chris Wyatt:

There seems to be problems with this topo.

: What are the problems? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 19:36, 23 September 2010 (BST)

I tried looking at this at home and could only see P.2., in work it made microsoft explorer crash, I tried again, at home, and got Nothing. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 21:09, 23 September 2010 (BST)

: I'm getting no problems here... Just opened it with several different viewers and all seems well. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 21:35, 23 September 2010 (BST)

Using firefox at home, explorer at work Am I being daft? I'm clicking on the link, I get re-directed - then nothing..--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 23:05, 23 September 2010 (BST)

: I'm pretty sure the file on the server is ok... I check-summed it with the original and there's a match. It's possible that you have a corrupt copy in the caches of the browsers at work and at home. Try clearing the caches of both browsers. I'll send you an email with the topo. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 23:18, 23 September 2010 (BST)

Any reason why some route names have been emboldened and others not? Same question regarding 1st acensionists. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 15:18, 5 November 2010 (GMT)

It's in the preamble - bold font - routes in, normal font - routes out. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 15:41, 5 November 2010 (GMT)

: Ooops! Sorry Alan. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:50, 5 November 2010 (GMT)

Apparently all routes outside of the cave are now accessable but climbers should not venture into the cave. I got this from John Bullock but I think it was Danny McCarroll who did the negotiations. I will ask for more info

King Wall

2015-03-09T17:45:35Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category:Gower]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 873'''

[[Image:King Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|King Wall]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
2½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Descend down and right from the large platform above the crag to reach [[Giant’s Cave]], then double back.

== THE ROUTES ==
This is the tier below The Great Terrace above which is [[Lewes Castle]]. It is the first sea level crag encountered when coming from Fall Bay. It provides a number of good lower grade routes. When the beach is exposed, descent is easiest by following the Great Terrace rightwards (east) into [[Giants Cave]]. Because the first 6m of the wall are easy, it is possible to traverse or abseil into many of the routes for some time after the tide has come back in. To aid route identification Great Cleft is in the middle of the wall.

1. '''Niord '''24m S

Start 15m below and left of the left apex of King Wall, below a right-angled groove at 15m. Gain this groove and finish direct.

2. '''Skadi '''24m S

The vague ramp 2m right of Niord.

3. '''Llethrid '''26m HS,4a

Climbs a vague right-trending ramp below the left-hand apex of the wall.

4. '''Frigg '''26m VS,4b

Start below the highest point of the wall (25m left of ''Great Cleft''). Climb a shallow blackened groove leading towards the left end of the Great Terrace. Climb the groove, then trend left near the top where the groove peters out.

5. '''Bolder '''26m VS,4b *

A nice pitch up the slabby wall between ''Frigg'' and ''Beowulf''.

6. '''Beowulf '''29m VS,4b

Climb a groove running rightward to a small overlap at 20m with a light brown stain below it. Traverse left above the overlap to a small pitted slab. Follow this via another overlap to the top.

6.5. '''Beowulf's little mistress '''29m E1 5c

A totally contrived and escapable eliminate on the slab between Beowulf and Ragnarok. But if you want King Wall to offer you something a bit harder here it is ( and the moves are nice)! Try to keep off the arete but you might need it just below the top overhang

7. '''Ragnarok '''29m HS,4a **

As for ''Beowulf'' but follow the groove to the top.

8. '''Trying Lines '''29m VS,4c

Directly up the pillar right of ''Ragnarok''.

9. '''Sweyn '''29m HS,4b

Follow thin calcite streaks on the broken wall right of ''Ragnarok'', then directly up the wall above.

10. '''Gefion '''27m HVS, 5a

The steeper wall left of the groove (Idun). Get to the ledge at half height via an interesting rock up into a large hole. Romp to the top

11. '''Idun '''21m S

The corner bounding the left-hand side of the pillar.

12. '''King Route '''21m S

Start immediately right of ''Idun'' and climb the left-hand side of the pillar and the indefinite stepped groove slightly rightwards to the top.

13. '''Freya '''21m HS,4a *

Climb a shallow groove in the centre of the pillar.

14. '''Valkyrie '''21m VS,5a

The cracked wall to the right of ''Freya'', keeping left of an overlap at 15m.

16. '''Cleft Corner '''21m S

Take the subsidiary groove running up to ''Great Cleft'' from the left.

17. '''Great Cleft '''21m D

The obvious broken crack and groove left of a smooth recessed slab more or less halfway along the wall. Climb the wall to gain the crack at half-height.

To the right is a 20m wide wall, bounded on its right by a prominent arete.

18. '''Wulst '''21m S

Climb the wall just right of ''Great Cleft''.

19. '''Vanir '''21m VS,4c

Start right of ''Wulst'' and climb up to a scoop and a tiny calcite knob in a hole. Move up to a shallow groove on

the left to finish.

20. '''Balder '''21m VS,5a

The centre of the slab by a thin crack. Climb up leftward to gain a tiny ledge, move right and finish up the slab.

21. '''Loki '''21m HS

The slabs right of ''Balder'' and left of the more prominent cracks of Tyr to the right.

22. '''Tyr '''21m S,4a

The cracks to the right of ''Loki''.

23. '''Fafnir '''21m HS,4b **

A popular climb taking the corner at the right side of the recessed slab.

24. '''Amble '''21m VD

The prominent crack right of ''Fafnir''.

25. '''Pytt '''21m S

The wall immediately right of ''Amble''.

An indistinct line ''Fenris'' (J.Talbot 1962) seems to be covered by the lines of Pytt and Vorder.

26. '''Vorder '''21m S,4a

Climb the arete at the right side of the pitted wall.

15. '''Vik '''21m HS,4b

Climb a vague line right of Valkyrie and left of the arete of the wall.

27. '''Ides '''30m S

A rising traverse linking Vorder to ''Needle Crack''.

28. '''Thor '''21m S,4a

The groove in the side wall to the right of ''Vorder'', gained from ''Odin''.

29. '''Odin '''21m VS,4b

A skinny man's route. Climb the obvious chimney and the crack above.

30. '''Valhalla '''21m HVS,4c

The wall right of ''Odin''.

Nones (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1965) has been superseded by the other routes hereabouts.

31. '''Needle Crack '''21m VS,4b **

Climb the steep corner right of Odin to easier rock, then pleasantly up to the final steep section.

32. '''Joe Says Its Cool '''24m E2,5c

33. '''Nimbus '''24m S,4c

Start just right of the arete of the corner of ''Needle Crack''. Make an awkward move to gain the slab just right of the arete and take a diagonal line up right to a ledge. Continue directly to the top.

34. '''Genesis '''18m HD

The distinct rib 10m to the right of ''Nimbus''.

35. '''Findel '''18m M

The last deep fissure on the wall.

36. '''Varus '''18m M

Climbs the area of broken rock to the right of ''Findel''.

37. '''King Wall Girdle '''100m VS,4c

A right to left girdle following any convenient line.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

1. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

2. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

3. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

4. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

5. ''J.Harwood, G.Evans 07.12.1980''

6. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

6.5 ''C Wyatt, 9.3.2015

7. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

8. G.Evans, J.Harwood 07.12.1980

9. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

10. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

11. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1964''

12. ''D.Jones, J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

13. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

14. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

17. ''J.Talbot, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

19. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

20. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

23. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

25. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

26. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

15.

27. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

28. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

29. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

30. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

31. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

32. ''Supersedes the old routes Exodus (J.Talbot 1963) and Kluft (J.Talbot 1960). The overlaps right of Needle Crack. A.Berry, H.Griffiths, J.Bottrill, J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1993''

33. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

34. ''Unknown Pre-1978''

35. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

36.'' J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

37. ''Traditional Pre-1978''

King Wall

2015-03-09T17:40:44Z

Chris Wyatt: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:Gower]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 873'''

[[Image:King Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|King Wall]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
2½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Descend down and right from the large platform above the crag to reach [[Giant’s Cave]], then double back.

== THE ROUTES ==
This is the tier below The Great Terrace above which is [[Lewes Castle]]. It is the first sea level crag encountered when coming from Fall Bay. It provides a number of good lower grade routes. When the beach is exposed, descent is easiest by following the Great Terrace rightwards (east) into [[Giants Cave]]. Because the first 6m of the wall are easy, it is possible to traverse or abseil into many of the routes for some time after the tide has come back in. To aid route identification Great Cleft is in the middle of the wall.

1. '''Niord '''24m S

Start 15m below and left of the left apex of King Wall, below a right-angled groove at 15m. Gain this groove and finish direct.

2. '''Skadi '''24m S

The vague ramp 2m right of Niord.

3. '''Llethrid '''26m HS,4a

Climbs a vague right-trending ramp below the left-hand apex of the wall.

4. '''Frigg '''26m VS,4b

Start below the highest point of the wall (25m left of ''Great Cleft''). Climb a shallow blackened groove leading towards the left end of the Great Terrace. Climb the groove, then trend left near the top where the groove peters out.

5. '''Bolder '''26m VS,4b *

A nice pitch up the slabby wall between ''Frigg'' and ''Beowulf''.

6. '''Beowulf '''29m VS,4b

Climb a groove running rightward to a small overlap at 20m with a light brown stain below it. Traverse left above the overlap to a small pitted slab. Follow this via another overlap to the top.

6.5. '''Beowulf's little mistress '''29m E1 5c

A totally contrived eliminate on the slab and arete between Beowulf and Ragnarok. But if you want King Wall to offer you something a bit harder here it is!

7. '''Ragnarok '''29m HS,4a **

As for ''Beowulf'' but follow the groove to the top.

8. '''Trying Lines '''29m VS,4c

Directly up the pillar right of ''Ragnarok''.

9. '''Sweyn '''29m HS,4b

Follow thin calcite streaks on the broken wall right of ''Ragnarok'', then directly up the wall above.

10. '''Gefion '''27m HVS, 5a

The steeper wall left of the groove (Idun). Get to the ledge at half height via an interesting rock up into a large hole. Romp to the top

11. '''Idun '''21m S

The corner bounding the left-hand side of the pillar.

12. '''King Route '''21m S

Start immediately right of ''Idun'' and climb the left-hand side of the pillar and the indefinite stepped groove slightly rightwards to the top.

13. '''Freya '''21m HS,4a *

Climb a shallow groove in the centre of the pillar.

14. '''Valkyrie '''21m VS,5a

The cracked wall to the right of ''Freya'', keeping left of an overlap at 15m.

16. '''Cleft Corner '''21m S

Take the subsidiary groove running up to ''Great Cleft'' from the left.

17. '''Great Cleft '''21m D

The obvious broken crack and groove left of a smooth recessed slab more or less halfway along the wall. Climb the wall to gain the crack at half-height.

To the right is a 20m wide wall, bounded on its right by a prominent arete.

18. '''Wulst '''21m S

Climb the wall just right of ''Great Cleft''.

19. '''Vanir '''21m VS,4c

Start right of ''Wulst'' and climb up to a scoop and a tiny calcite knob in a hole. Move up to a shallow groove on

the left to finish.

20. '''Balder '''21m VS,5a

The centre of the slab by a thin crack. Climb up leftward to gain a tiny ledge, move right and finish up the slab.

21. '''Loki '''21m HS

The slabs right of ''Balder'' and left of the more prominent cracks of Tyr to the right.

22. '''Tyr '''21m S,4a

The cracks to the right of ''Loki''.

23. '''Fafnir '''21m HS,4b **

A popular climb taking the corner at the right side of the recessed slab.

24. '''Amble '''21m VD

The prominent crack right of ''Fafnir''.

25. '''Pytt '''21m S

The wall immediately right of ''Amble''.

An indistinct line ''Fenris'' (J.Talbot 1962) seems to be covered by the lines of Pytt and Vorder.

26. '''Vorder '''21m S,4a

Climb the arete at the right side of the pitted wall.

15. '''Vik '''21m HS,4b

Climb a vague line right of Valkyrie and left of the arete of the wall.

27. '''Ides '''30m S

A rising traverse linking Vorder to ''Needle Crack''.

28. '''Thor '''21m S,4a

The groove in the side wall to the right of ''Vorder'', gained from ''Odin''.

29. '''Odin '''21m VS,4b

A skinny man's route. Climb the obvious chimney and the crack above.

30. '''Valhalla '''21m HVS,4c

The wall right of ''Odin''.

Nones (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1965) has been superseded by the other routes hereabouts.

31. '''Needle Crack '''21m VS,4b **

Climb the steep corner right of Odin to easier rock, then pleasantly up to the final steep section.

32. '''Joe Says Its Cool '''24m E2,5c

33. '''Nimbus '''24m S,4c

Start just right of the arete of the corner of ''Needle Crack''. Make an awkward move to gain the slab just right of the arete and take a diagonal line up right to a ledge. Continue directly to the top.

34. '''Genesis '''18m HD

The distinct rib 10m to the right of ''Nimbus''.

35. '''Findel '''18m M

The last deep fissure on the wall.

36. '''Varus '''18m M

Climbs the area of broken rock to the right of ''Findel''.

37. '''King Wall Girdle '''100m VS,4c

A right to left girdle following any convenient line.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

1. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

2. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

3. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

4. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

5. ''J.Harwood, G.Evans 07.12.1980''

6. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

6.5 ''C Wyatt, 9.3.2015

7. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

8. G.Evans, J.Harwood 07.12.1980

9. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

10. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

11. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1964''

12. ''D.Jones, J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

13. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

14. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

17. ''J.Talbot, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

19. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

20. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

23. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

25. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

26. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

15.

27. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

28. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

29. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

30. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

31. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

32. ''Supersedes the old routes Exodus (J.Talbot 1963) and Kluft (J.Talbot 1960). The overlaps right of Needle Crack. A.Berry, H.Griffiths, J.Bottrill, J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1993''

33. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

34. ''Unknown Pre-1978''

35. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

36.'' J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

37. ''Traditional Pre-1978''

King Wall

2015-03-09T17:39:02Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category:Gower]]
'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Fall Bay to Mewslade]]'''

'''GR SS 414 873'''

[[Image:King Wall.jpg|500px|thumb|right|King Wall]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
2½ hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting.

== DESCENTS ==
Descend down and right from the large platform above the crag to reach [[Giant’s Cave]], then double back.

== THE ROUTES ==
This is the tier below The Great Terrace above which is [[Lewes Castle]]. It is the first sea level crag encountered when coming from Fall Bay. It provides a number of good lower grade routes. When the beach is exposed, descent is easiest by following the Great Terrace rightwards (east) into [[Giants Cave]]. Because the first 6m of the wall are easy, it is possible to traverse or abseil into many of the routes for some time after the tide has come back in. To aid route identification Great Cleft is in the middle of the wall.

1. '''Niord '''24m S

Start 15m below and left of the left apex of King Wall, below a right-angled groove at 15m. Gain this groove and finish direct.

2. '''Skadi '''24m S

The vague ramp 2m right of Niord.

3. '''Llethrid '''26m HS,4a

Climbs a vague right-trending ramp below the left-hand apex of the wall.

4. '''Frigg '''26m VS,4b

Start below the highest point of the wall (25m left of ''Great Cleft''). Climb a shallow blackened groove leading towards the left end of the Great Terrace. Climb the groove, then trend left near the top where the groove peters out.

5. '''Bolder '''26m VS,4b *

A nice pitch up the slabby wall between ''Frigg'' and ''Beowulf''.

6. '''Beowulf '''29m VS,4b

Climb a groove running rightward to a small overlap at 20m with a light brown stain below it. Traverse left above the overlap to a small pitted slab. Follow this via another overlap to the top.

6.5. '''Beowulf's little mistress '''29m E1 5c

A totally contrived eliminate on the slab and arete between Beowulf and Ragnarok. But if you want King Wall to offer you something a bit harder here it is!

7. '''Ragnarok '''29m HS,4a **

As for ''Beowulf'' but follow the groove to the top.

8. '''Trying Lines '''29m VS,4c

Directly up the pillar right of ''Ragnarok''.

9. '''Sweyn '''29m HS,4b

Follow thin calcite streaks on the broken wall right of ''Ragnarok'', then directly up the wall above.

10. '''Gefion '''27m HVS, 5a

The steeper wall left of the groove (Idun). Get to the ledge at half height via an interesting rock up into a large hole. Romp to the top

11. '''Idun '''21m S

The corner bounding the left-hand side of the pillar.

12. '''King Route '''21m S

Start immediately right of ''Idun'' and climb the left-hand side of the pillar and the indefinite stepped groove slightly rightwards to the top.

13. '''Freya '''21m HS,4a *

Climb a shallow groove in the centre of the pillar.

14. '''Valkyrie '''21m VS,5a

The cracked wall to the right of ''Freya'', keeping left of an overlap at 15m.

16. '''Cleft Corner '''21m S

Take the subsidiary groove running up to ''Great Cleft'' from the left.

17. '''Great Cleft '''21m D

The obvious broken crack and groove left of a smooth recessed slab more or less halfway along the wall. Climb the wall to gain the crack at half-height.

To the right is a 20m wide wall, bounded on its right by a prominent arete.

18. '''Wulst '''21m S

Climb the wall just right of ''Great Cleft''.

19. '''Vanir '''21m VS,4c

Start right of ''Wulst'' and climb up to a scoop and a tiny calcite knob in a hole. Move up to a shallow groove on

the left to finish.

20. '''Balder '''21m VS,5a

The centre of the slab by a thin crack. Climb up leftward to gain a tiny ledge, move right and finish up the slab.

21. '''Loki '''21m HS

The slabs right of ''Balder'' and left of the more prominent cracks of Tyr to the right.

22. '''Tyr '''21m S,4a

The cracks to the right of ''Loki''.

23. '''Fafnir '''21m HS,4b **

A popular climb taking the corner at the right side of the recessed slab.

24. '''Amble '''21m VD

The prominent crack right of ''Fafnir''.

25. '''Pytt '''21m S

The wall immediately right of ''Amble''.

An indistinct line ''Fenris'' (J.Talbot 1962) seems to be covered by the lines of Pytt and Vorder.

26. '''Vorder '''21m S,4a

Climb the arete at the right side of the pitted wall.

15. '''Vik '''21m HS,4b

Climb a vague line right of Valkyrie and left of the arete of the wall.

27. '''Ides '''30m S

A rising traverse linking Vorder to ''Needle Crack''.

28. '''Thor '''21m S,4a

The groove in the side wall to the right of ''Vorder'', gained from ''Odin''.

29. '''Odin '''21m VS,4b

A skinny man's route. Climb the obvious chimney and the crack above.

30. '''Valhalla '''21m HVS,4c

The wall right of ''Odin''.

Nones (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1965) has been superseded by the other routes hereabouts.

31. '''Needle Crack '''21m VS,4b **

Climb the steep corner right of Odin to easier rock, then pleasantly up to the final steep section.

32. '''Joe Says Its Cool '''24m E2,5c

33. '''Nimbus '''24m S,4c

Start just right of the arete of the corner of ''Needle Crack''. Make an awkward move to gain the slab just right of the arete and take a diagonal line up right to a ledge. Continue directly to the top.

34. '''Genesis '''18m HD

The distinct rib 10m to the right of ''Nimbus''.

35. '''Findel '''18m M

The last deep fissure on the wall.

36. '''Varus '''18m M

Climbs the area of broken rock to the right of ''Findel''.

37. '''King Wall Girdle '''100m VS,4c

A right to left girdle following any convenient line.

== FIRST ASCENTS ==

1. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

2. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

3. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

4. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

5. ''J.Harwood, G.Evans 07.12.1980''

6. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

7. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

8. G.Evans, J.Harwood 07.12.1980

9. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

10. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1963''

11. ''J.Talbot, D.Lewis 00.00.1964''

12. ''D.Jones, J.Talbot 00.00.1959''

13. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

14. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

16. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

17. ''J.Talbot, D.Jones 00.00.1959''

18. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1970''

19. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

20. J.Talbot 00.00.1963

21. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

22. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

23. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

24. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

25. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1962''

26. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

15.

27. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

28. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

29. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

30. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1964''

31. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

32. ''Supersedes the old routes Exodus (J.Talbot 1963) and Kluft (J.Talbot 1960). The overlaps right of Needle Crack. A.Berry, H.Griffiths, J.Bottrill, J.Bullock, G.Evans 00.00.1993''

33. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1963''

34. ''Unknown Pre-1978''

35. ''J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

36.'' J.Talbot 00.00.1961''

37. ''Traditional Pre-1978''

Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

2014-08-02T20:08:11Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Superarrete.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Tom Palfreyman on SuperArete]]

I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)

but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.

And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky

I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

''by chris wyatt 2008''

The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

{{#display_map:
51.570921, -4.030502
| zoom=15
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The crystal wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWhiteWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The White wall]]
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)

1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

|}

'''The Wave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWave1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Wave]]
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle

1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

|}

'''The Playground'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellPlayground.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Playground]]
| another good warm up area

1.-3 easier lines
A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

|}

'''The Gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellGully.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Gully]]
| Interesting but can ming

1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

|}

'''The Bible'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellBible.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Bible]]
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.

1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

|}

'''The Towers'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswelltowers.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block

|}

'''The Tower Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellTowerBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

|}

'''The Square Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The SquareBlock]]
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete

|}

'''Chip off the block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Chip]]
|

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required

|}

100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

'''Barnacle bill'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastwall1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Barnacle Bill]]
|

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

|}

'''Canine'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The canine]]
|

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)

|}
'''Wall and arete'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Casswellfeastarrete.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Arrete]]
|
This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem

|}

'''HB Gully Right'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:CaswellHBGullyRH.png|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding.

1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it

2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top

3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful highball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.

|}
|

'''Central Tor LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfareastc1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|
'''The Arch'''
{|

!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
|
Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas

1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)

|}
'''Right of the arch'''
{|

!width="550"|[[File:CaswelEast2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Problem Right of arch]]
|

1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)

|}

Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

2014-08-02T20:06:20Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Superarrete.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Tom Palfreyman on SuperArete]]

I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)

but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.

And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky

I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

''by chris wyatt 2008''

The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

{{#display_map:
51.570921, -4.030502
| zoom=15
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The crystal wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWhiteWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The White wall]]
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)

1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

|}

'''The Wave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWave1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Wave]]
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle

1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

|}

'''The Playground'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellPlayground.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Playground]]
| another good warm up area

1.-3 easier lines
A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

|}

'''The Gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellGully.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Gully]]
| Interesting but can ming

1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

|}

'''The Bible'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellBible.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Bible]]
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.

1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

|}

'''The Towers'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswelltowers.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block

|}

'''The Tower Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellTowerBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

|}

'''The Square Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The SquareBlock]]
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete

|}

'''Chip off the block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Chip]]
|

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required

|}

100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

'''Barnacle bill'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastwall1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Barnacle Bill]]
|

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

|}

'''Canine'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The canine]]
|

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)

|}
'''Wall and arete'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Casswellfeastarrete.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Arrete]]
|
This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem

|}

'''HB Gully Right'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:CaswellHBGullyRH.png|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding.

1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it

2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top

3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful fighball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.

|}
|

'''Central Tor LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfareastc1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|
'''The Arch'''
{|

!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
|
Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas

1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)

|}
'''Right of the arch'''
{|

!width="550"|[[File:CaswelEast2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Problem Right of arch]]
|

1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)

|}

Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

2014-08-02T20:05:15Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Superarrete.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Tom Palfreyman on SuperArete]]

I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)

but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.

And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky

I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

''by chris wyatt 2008''

The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

{{#display_map:
51.570921, -4.030502
| zoom=15
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The crystal wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWhiteWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The White wall]]
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)

1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

|}

'''The Wave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWave1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Wave]]
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle

1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

|}

'''The Playground'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellPlayground.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Playground]]
| another good warm up area

1.-3 easier lines
A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

|}

'''The Gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellGully.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Gully]]
| Interesting but can ming

1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

|}

'''The Bible'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellBible.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Bible]]
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.

1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

|}

'''The Towers'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswelltowers.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block

|}

'''The Tower Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellTowerBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

|}

'''The Square Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The SquareBlock]]
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete

|}

'''Chip off the block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Chip]]
|

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required

|}

100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

'''Barnacle bill'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastwall1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Barnacle Bill]]
|

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

|}

'''Canine'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The canine]]
|

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)

|}
'''Wall and arete'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Casswellfeastarrete.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Arrete]]
|
This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem

|}

'''HB Gully Right'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:CaswellHBGullyRH.png|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding.

1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it

2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top

3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful fighball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|

'''Central Tor LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfareastc1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|
'''The Arch'''
{|

!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
|
Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas

1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)

|}
'''Right of the arch'''
{|

!width="550"|[[File:CaswelEast2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Problem Right of arch]]
|

1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)

|}

Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

2014-08-02T20:04:00Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Superarrete.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Tom Palfreyman on SuperArete]]

I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)

but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.

And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky

I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

''by chris wyatt 2008''

The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

{{#display_map:
51.570921, -4.030502
| zoom=15
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The crystal wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWhiteWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The White wall]]
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)

1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

|}

'''The Wave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWave1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Wave]]
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle

1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

|}

'''The Playground'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellPlayground.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Playground]]
| another good warm up area

1.-3 easier lines
A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

|}

'''The Gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellGully.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Gully]]
| Interesting but can ming

1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

|}

'''The Bible'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellBible.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Bible]]
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.

1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

|}

'''The Towers'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswelltowers.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block

|}

'''The Tower Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellTowerBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

|}

'''The Square Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The SquareBlock]]
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete

|}

'''Chip off the block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Chip]]
|

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required

|}

100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

'''Barnacle bill'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastwall1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Barnacle Bill]]
|

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

|}

'''Canine'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The canine]]
|

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)

|}
'''Wall and arete'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Casswellfeastarrete.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Arrete]]
|
This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem

|}

'''HB Gully Right'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:CaswellHBGullyRH,png|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding.

1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it

2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top

3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful fighball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|

'''Central Tor LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfareastc1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|
'''The Arch'''
{|

!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
|
Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas

1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)

|}
'''Right of the arch'''
{|

!width="550"|[[File:CaswelEast2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Problem Right of arch]]
|

1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)

|}

File:CaswellHBGullyRH.png

2014-08-02T19:54:30Z

Chris Wyatt:

File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg

2014-08-02T19:52:34Z

Chris Wyatt:

Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

2014-08-02T19:51:41Z

Chris Wyatt:

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

== PREAMBLE ==
[[Image:Superarrete.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Tom Palfreyman on SuperArete]]

I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)

but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.

And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky

I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

''by chris wyatt 2008''

The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

{{#display_map:
51.570921, -4.030502
| zoom=15
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''The crystal wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWhiteWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The White wall]]
| This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)

1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

|}

'''The Wave'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellWave1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Wave]]
| Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle

1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

|}

'''The Playground'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellPlayground.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Playground]]
| another good warm up area

1.-3 easier lines
A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

|}

'''The Gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellGully.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Gully]]
| Interesting but can ming

1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

|}

'''The Bible'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:CaswellBible.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Bible]]
| This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.

1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

|}

'''The Towers'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswelltowers.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block

|}

'''The Tower Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellTowerBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The towers]]
| Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

|}

'''The Square Block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The SquareBlock]]
| A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arete ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete

|}

'''Chip off the block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:caswellBlock2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Chip]]
|

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required

|}

100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

'''Barnacle bill'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastwall1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Barnacle Bill]]
|

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

|}

'''Canine'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfeastk9a.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The canine]]
|

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake

|}
'''Wall and arete'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Casswellfeastarrete.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The Arrete]]
|
This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arete' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem

|}

'''Central Tor LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[File:Caswellfareastc1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Central Tor]]
|
The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right

|}
|
'''The Arch'''
{|

!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch1.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
!width="300"|[[File:Caswelleastarch2.jpg|thumb|300px|left|The Arch]]
|
Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas

1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)

|}
'''Right of the arch'''
{|

!width="550"|[[File:CaswelEast2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Problem Right of arch]]
|

1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)

|}

File:Caswellfeastk9.jpg

2014-08-02T19:47:15Z

Chris Wyatt: Chris Wyatt uploaded a new version of "File:Caswellfeastk9.jpg"

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:38:12Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

The next three climbs are located further into the gully. We will attempt to make their positions absolutely clear in the near future!

7. 'Stan Lee' (V9) Start under low roof opposite 'the crab'bloc. Come around to match sloppy crimp and fire to jug (not too sure where this is Ed).

8. 'Moby' (V10) The prow towards the back of Crab Island. Start on good undercuts in the break, then get established on the prow and hug your way to the top. Finish standing on a large ledge above the prow.

9. 'Hulk' (V6) Start sitting on bloc under Stan Lee roof. Start on sloppy crimp and pocket in roof and fire along the obvious prow to jug on lip , top out however brave you feel

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.png|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''The bay of plenty'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2ndGully2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Bay of plenty]]
|

Left of thumb thing area is a nice block with a couple of good warm-ups. Further left you will find the by of plenty currently with only 2 problems

1. ''Diddlepop V2/3'' From a sit start and a crack launch up on tiny intermediate holds. from the nose carry on up to a flake and get established on the slab.

2. Make your way up the crack

|}

'''Rambos area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2Gully3.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Rambos revenge]]
|

Further left you will find the leaning block of rambos revenge. Further work is to be done on its left

1. ''Rambos revenge V3'' From a sit start use an undercut on the right of the block to gain the obvious hole . From here, either slightly deviously and a modicum of power or with much power, make your way to the jug on the top of the block

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:36:04Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

7. 'Stan Lee' (V9) Start under low roof opposite 'the crab'bloc. Come around to match sloppy crimp and fire to jug (not too sure where this is Ed).

8. 'Moby' (V10) The prow towards the back of Crab Island. Start on good undercuts in the break, then get established on the prow and hug your way to the top. Finish standing on a large ledge above the prow.

9. 'Hulk' (V6) Start sitting on bloc under Stan Lee roof. Start on sloppy crimp and pocket in roof and fire along the obvious prow to jug on lip , top out however brave you feel

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.png|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''The bay of plenty'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2ndGully2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Bay of plenty]]
|

Left of thumb thing area is a nice block with a couple of good warm-ups. Further left you will find the by of plenty currently with only 2 problems

1. ''Diddlepop V2/3'' From a sit start and a crack launch up on tiny intermediate holds. from the nose carry on up to a flake and get established on the slab.

2. Make your way up the crack

|}

'''Rambos area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2Gully3.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Rambos revenge]]
|

Further left you will find the leaning block of rambos revenge. Further work is to be done on its left

1. ''Rambos revenge V3'' From a sit start use an undercut on the right of the block to gain the obvious hole . From here, either slightly deviously and a modicum of power or with much power, make your way to the jug on the top of the block

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

File:2Gully3.jpg

2014-07-27T16:26:54Z

Chris Wyatt:

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:25:34Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.png|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''The bay of plenty'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2ndGully2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Bay of plenty]]
|

Left of thumb thing area is a nice block with a couple of good warm-ups. Further left you will find the by of plenty currently with only 2 problems

1. ''Diddlepop V2/3'' From a sit start and a crack launch up on tiny intermediate holds. from the nose carry on up to a flake and get established on the slab.

2. Make your way up the crack

|}

'''Rambos area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2Gully3.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Rambos revenge]]
|

Further left you will find the leaning block of rambos revenge. Further work is to be done on its left

1. ''Rambos revenge V3'' From a sit start use an undercut on the right of the block to gain the obvious hole . From here, either slightly deviously and a modicum of power or with much power, make your way to the jug on the top of the block

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:19:29Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.png|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''The bay of plenty'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:2ndGully2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

Left of thumb thing area is a nice block with a couple of good warm-ups. Further left you will find the by of plenty currently with only 2 problems

1. ''Diddlepop V2/3'' From a sit start and a crack launch up on tiny intermediate holds. from the nose carry on up to a flake and get established on the slab.

2. Make your way up the crack

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

File:2ndGully2.jpg

2014-07-27T16:13:33Z

Chris Wyatt:

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:11:11Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.png|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

Rams Tor Bouldering

2014-07-27T16:03:14Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==
Most of the bouldering in this area takes place 2 hours either side of low tide. There is however the china wall area which is non tidal except on springs with a heavy sea.

== PREAMBLE ==

'''Rams Tor bouldering'''
{|
!width="750"|[[Image:RamsTor1.jpg|thumb|700px|left|Tom Palfreyman in zawn 3]]
|Tide raised breaker,

you ride into the zawn

tips curled higher than its gates then break.

The thunder echoed in the cave

proclaims your fall.

Your after-mist submerges me in rainbows

and I defy gravity.

A finger slots a pocket.

One foot smears friction in the faintest of scoops

the other strokes an inset crystal looking for grip.

My body tenses,

mind controls.

Your undertow grinds

pebble points to dust

We are noise!

''Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This can almost be described as 'adventure' bouldering. There are loads of highball, juggy, steep problems - but a word of warning - rock quality varies. If you like slabs, one of the best slab problems on gower is found here, just west of Crab island crag. The area is also very good for tombstoning/coasteering at high tide

== ACCESS ==

Drive up through [[wikipedia:Mumbles|Mumbles]] High Street and turn left at the Baptist Church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.

Walk down to [[Rotherslade]] and take the coastal path East. After 500 yards yards a path right leads to the top of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]'''. The initial bouldering is either in the bay to the west of '''[[Crab Island Crag]]''' or on its lower tier , the zawn to its east has an amazing rock bridge leading to China Wall. behind this you will find the cracking cave. The second zawn (or is it a cove) contains an excellent white wall reminiscent of the trench at [[Ogmore]]. The third zawn has a good traverse on its east side and a series of impending towers up to 8m high on its west.

[[Rams Tor]] itself is 200m to the east of this and there are a number of problems in the caves and mini zawns between the two.

Exits: If you are climbing in the second or 3rd zawn beware of the incoming tide blocking your exit. Climbing out of the 3rd zawn is effectively a severe solo. There are exits to the cliff path above china wall (but you will be scratched to pieces), at rams tor and and crab island crag.

== MAP OF AREA ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|center=51.568556, -3.999518
|service=openlayers
|zoom=14
|layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,bing,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

'''Crab Island gully'''
{|

!width="550"|[[Image:Crabisland1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Crab island gully, rhs]]
|

This is the bouldering in the gully below crab island crag. Traverse off rightwards unless you want to solo the easy routes above...

1. 'Oyster catcher' (V3) A tricky offwidth crack

2. 'Dunlin' (V6). In the middle of the wall is an obvious fin of rock. Gain this with difficulty and continue upwards to the top

3. 'CornCrake' (V2). Goes left of the obvious bulge

4. 'Curlew' (V1). Goes right of the bulge

5. 'Avocet' (V1). The juggy pillar

6. 'Turnstone' (V0). A nice warm up on the right hand pillar

|}

'''China wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWallLHS1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. 'Left wall traverse' (v2) An excellent problem; From the gravel floor reach up to a hand rail and then to a satisfying finger lock in a downward facing hole. A powerful move on a low side-pull gets you to a low jug. Continue moving left to another LH side pull and then up to two positive crimps and the finish - or continue leftwards as far as you can go

2. The Rattlesnake finish

3. Climb from the back of the cave out on massive - usually damp - holds

4. A counter diagonal to problem 1. shares some of the same holds. Sit start. The rock to the left of the start is out of bounds!

|}

'''China wall between the caves'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall between the caves]]
|

1. The right arrete of the cave

2. Via an amazing pocket hold under the roof and a crimp just under the lip, make your way to the top.

3. The knob route. We are not sure when the knob is going to fall off but it has grappled with care numerous times

''Cave to Cave traverses :''

4a. The traverse from the right cave to the left cave (v3), powerful moves under the roof lead to the knob. More powerful moves on the lip eventually lead to the left cave.

4b. Variation (v4) : start Right of the central cave and traverse through it. Drop down under the knob and continue left finishing on handholds under the roof to reach the left hand cave.

|}

'''China wall RH Cave, pillar and slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall5.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH Cave, pillar and slab]]
|

1. From a sit start climb diagonally leftwards across the back of the cave to a thought provoking finish at the left of the overhang

2. The top half of this poses a psychological challenge. Climb the pillar in its entirety.

3. This is for those who are not interested in psychological challenges ( or perhaps just sensible)

4. Climb the slab

5. A traverse in start to problem 2.

|}

'''The super traverse :'''Start of problem 5 in RH wall, , Problem 4b - cave to cave travers, Problem 1 of left hand wall. This is quite an undertaking!

'''China wall RH Slab'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:ChinaWall6.jpg|thumb|500px|left|China Wall RH slab]]
|

1. From a sit start in the cave get established on the slab and trust your feet to the top

|}

East of china wall there is an intersting slab and a cave containing ''Quantum physics''. there is a U tube video of this on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDuCwSG0Rbo

'''Under quantum physics area'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw2.png|thumb|500px|left|The slab]]
|

This is a neat area with a number of worthwhile problems at low tide. There is plenty of scope for some harder problems here

1. The left arrete of the slab from a sit start under the overhang. Excellent V1+

2. Levitate up the slab.
|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Cw1.png|thumb|500px|left|The Overhang]]
|
3. Take the centre of the overhang. another excellent V1+ problem

|}

'''Second Zawn '''

At the seaward sized of the second zawn there is a reverse facing scalloped wall with some excellent balancy/friction problems.

{|
!width="950"|[[Image:Cove2Tom.jpg|thumb|900px|left|Tom Palfreyman on problem 5]]
|}

'''Scalloped wall LHS'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn2NFace.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Scalloped Wall Left hand side]]
|

1. On the left hand side of the wall a difficult leftward traverse leads to the finish

2. The Direct Version

3. Work up carefully to the left of the obvious groove line

4. The groove itself bearing slightly rightwards at the top. Deceptively hard.

5. Make for a mono pocket high on the wall. Excellent

The wall gets a bit easier to the right of this but still holds a number of good problems

|}

'''ThumbThingArea'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:gully2ThumbThing2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Thumb thing area]]
|

The right hand wall of the zawn (facing landwards) offers long traverses. Just as it turns into a cave you will find a steepening and a couple of nice problems

1. ''Finger Fing V3'' Sit start on slopers to reasonable holds under the overhang. From there use a sharp looking vertical finger pocket to traverse rightwards hitting the jugs of thumb thing, Go up to the large flake and touch the ceiling. Escape rightwards.

2. ''Thumb thing V4''. sit start to left hand on awkward sloper. A long reach up and rightward leads to an interesting thumb hold. From here make your way up to jugs and a break. Traverse right and climb down to finish/

3. ''Scragg thing V3''. Start as for finger fing. Go straight up to the flakes in the roof above via a slopey crimp

|}

'''Third Zawn '''

60m East of the second zawn, the third zawn cuts in like a mini stennis ford. On its west flank are three blocks approximately 8m high. It's all very highball the rock quality seems to be good.

'''1st block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The first block]]
|

1. Easy enough if you have courage. A positivle line of handholds leads up and right towards the arrete. Take these then amble to the top

2. Much harder, A long reach or a hard pull on an intermediate pocket gains a large pocket in the wall, high on the left. From there it is plain sailing

|}

'''2nd block'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Zawn3_2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The second block]]
|

1. Steep but fairly juggy. Its all over except the nerves once you get to the standing potition half way up the face. A good problem

|}

File:Gully2ThumbThing2.png

2014-07-27T16:01:10Z

Chris Wyatt:

Mushrooms

2014-07-18T19:19:15Z

Chris Wyatt: /* THE BOULDERING */

[[contents]]

[[Bouldering]]

[[Bouldering in Gower]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

The mushrooms themselves 2.5 hours either side of low tide. The cove - 1 to 4 hours around low tide

== PREAMBLE ==

{|
!width="500"| [[Image:Mushrooms-mr2.jpg|thumb|480px|left|Mushroom No2 from the sea]]

|

Moonlit mushrooms merge into sea

salt washed, crystaline. While

oystercatchers mourn their trip into darkness

waiting to tiptoe into the day.

Hang by your fingertips !

Hope that the crystal holds,

for no hollow promise,

no bad trip,

no broken skull

Believe! Believe and pull

this time stopped instant through

your altered state of mind.

tonight the rising tide will not
be satisfied.

''By Chris Wyatt 2010''
|}

This area is weird. The mushrooms themselves defy the sea and refuse to topple, giving big overhangs on jugs - but we warned of brittle holds, some poor landings and a tide which races in very quickly. It is not advisable to climb here alone. A number of good problems can also be found in the gullies leading up from the mushrooms. The cove lies 60m to the west. This offers some very amenable bouldering at a lower grade and some good sloper problems. The east wall of the cove gives good traversing and the far south wall more steep climbing. Further around at low tide one comes to a small cave which has yet to be developed and then further on about 60m west of the cove dogfight gully offers some good but tidal problems.

== ACCESS ==

Park by the Castel del Mare restaurant and take the coast path west past Limeslade. When you get to a park bench overlooking the sea, cut in to the rock platform. '''[[Mushrooms]]''' are on your left and the cove is to your right.

{{#display_map: 51.566250, -3.982351
| service=openlayers
| layers=osm-mapnik,osm-cyclemap,google,bing
| zoom=17
}}

== THE BOULDERING ==

There are 4 mushrooms which are numbered from west to east. Various walls in the gullies can be found higher.

'''Mushrooms : First Gully'''
This forms the westen border of the mushrooms area.
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:mushroomgully1-2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Gully Wall LHS]]
| The wall to the end of a highball pillar

1. Easier on the left - there is also plenty of warm up potential to the left of this

2. Up via a downward pointing flake - take care with the rock - or use the hold just above the flake

3. The scoop via a vicious undercut.

|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:mushroomgully1-1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Gully Wall RHS]]
| The pillar at the end of the wall

1. Straight up - the arrete is verboten

|}

'''Mushroom number 1 - west Face'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomWface1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Mushroom1 West face LHS]]
| Where else do you know where you can find three climbs akin to flying buttress direct on stanage all in the same place?

1. Sit start by the see through hole and up

2. Sit start up steep jugs

3. Sit start, hook through two roofs

4. A very steep and very juggy roof - a good one to impress your mates on.

|}

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomWface2.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Mushroom1 West face RHS]]
|

5. Sit start. Another steep and juggy roof .

|}

'''The tunnel and continuation wall'''

Go through the rock tunnel at the landward side of mushroom No1.
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomTunnel.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The tunnel]]
|

1. From a sit start traverse the mouth of the tunnel without using holds on the top. For fun, keep going to right up to and round the end. Approximately V2/3

|}
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Mushroom1Westface.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Mushroom No 1 the east face RHS]]
| The pillar at the end of the wall

1. Up the only bit of solid rock on this face

|}

The face up towards the land is the continuation wall

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomContinuationWall.jpg|thumb|500px|left|The continuation wall]]
|

1. Sit start. Keep Left of the crack on pockets

2. A Quality finger crack

3. Find a way up on holds between ( but not including) the crack and the arrete

4. The long march. Keep low on the top section. This is a great problem. We think all the friable holds have been broken off by now but beware the landings.

|}

Mushroom No 2 - East Face An amazing lump of well cemented conglomerate with numerous bucket holds good fun!

{|
!width="550"|[[Image:Mushroom2East.jpg|thumb|500px|left|Mushroom No 2 the east face ]]
|

1. Buckets on the Left

2. Buckets on the Right

|}

Mushroom No 3 - Landward face

Mushroom No 4 - West Face

'''The Cove'''
A pleasant cove is found to the west of mushrooms. The problems on the landward end hold out a little longer against the tide than the mushrooms themselves.

On the west side of the cove is a long wall with caves and numerous boulders. This is christened 'Notched wall' At the lower end the rock is quite sharp but the problems at the landward end are good quality. On the East Side of the cove there is a south facing wall and round the corner a single problem. All on good quality rock.

'''The Cove : South Face RHs'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomsCove4.jpg|thumb|500px|left|RH Wall]]
| This is the first piece of rock you arrive at in the cove. Great for warm up with a more juicy problems on the right hand side

1. The Chimney

2. Layback on the right edge of the chimney

3. A tricky move using a small fin of rock on the wall. Sit start

4. A trickier problem to the right using the sloping ledge

5. The Right wall using some good slopers

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'''The Cove : South Face LHs'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomCove3.jpg|thumb|500px|left|RH Wall]]
| This is worth seeking out for its technical merit. It faces west and is just round the corner from the South wall

1. Sit start Up on crimp followed by slopers , Avoid the jamming crack

2. The Jamming crack

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'''The Cove : Notched Wall'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:MushroomCove1.jpg|thumb|500px|left|RH Wall]]
| This is the piece of Rock on the landward end of the wall. It is slightly impending and deceptively difficult

1. LH Problem

2. RH Problem

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'''Dogfight gully'''
{|
!width="550"|[[Image:dogfightgullyLH1.png|thumb|500px|left|RH Wall]]
| This can be found 60m west of the cove

1. Shares a start with ''Cat fight'' but straight up

2. ''Cat Fight'' V2 :From a sit start under the roof on a good hold, launch up to slopers on the small headwall, traverse on the head wall until you can escape upwards.

3. Straight up to the finish of ''Cat fight''

7. ''jam doughnut'' V3 : Start as for ''Cat fight'' but take a low transfer line to a jam and then go straight up.

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{|
!width="550"|[[Image:DogfightgullyRH.jpg|thumb|500px|left|RH Wall]]
|

4. The traverse on slopers. V2

5. ''Dog Fight'' V3 * : Worthwhile. Start in the left wall of the cave on an obvious flat hold. A good finger lock in the roof allows a difficult move to a sloper in the steep right wall, followed by rounded jugs. Cut loose and swing to the top

6. Straight up to the finish of ''Dog fight''

8. ''Cats and dogs'' . The complete traverse.

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